Acrylic cement can fuse PLA together, and PLA to acrylic, and the joint is less britle than super glue. the cracked tube can definitely be saved. Drill 4 corners first before cutting the opening on acrylic may relieve some stress in the corners, making it less likely to crack. I like your mirrored design, and they look great together.
Ruud can you do a video on your workshop. It looks amazing! You should make your channel more general, not just dust collection, you are clearly a talented maker/engineer. Want to see more of your work
Ever since I've seen Robert of Aging Wheels making a centrifugal dust separator for his second channel, Under Dunn, I've just automatically been watching and upvoting any DIY centrifugal dust separator video lol
If we assume that the design of the separator is perfected and we have transparent containers and transparent inner and outer hoses before and after the separator, we then can eliminate the need for the transparent acrylic tube and use just a regular plastic waste water pipe. It can be cut much more easily, it is a bit more durable and flexible. This way we eliminate one big part of the cost of the build.
....I am SOOOO going to buid this. Even without plans, I can see the theory. Beyond briliant 👍. Thank you for the insite and your incredible ability to put theory into practice 😉. Cheers Pete' New Zealand.
Nice build! On a different note any time I see someone with an x1c without the gold pei build plate I always feel the need to recommend it. The bed adhesion is so good you don't need to print with brims or glue for pla and petg to stick. Since I purchased mine ive run 10s of kilos of filament on 100s of prints and have had less than 5 have adhesion issues. Its truly a game changer
I feel like this is the best tip of the month! I directly ordered one 👍. I need lots of glue with the standard plate so that would be perfect if we can eliminate that 😀
@@CapturingDust Just be sure to clean it with a bit of alcohol every once in a while and be mindful that your fingers leave behind oils that hurt adhesion so try to limit the amount you touch the plate directly where the parts might print and you shouldn't have issues again. Good luck Edit: Also after printing on it wait for the bed to cool to room temp and the part will come off incredibly easy. It feels like magic
Really nice project! If you need any help with some specific material or 3D printing some parts maybe big ones or tiny ones, happy to help out with my company 😉 I'm in the Netherlands as well, from your Houdoe you should be in Brabant 🙂so we are not that far
The quarry industry quit using cyclone filters years ago (I think Tarmac held a few patents on them) because they don't filter the smallest particals, they switched to bag filters with reverse air blowing to clean off the built up dust.
One more thought for those in the UK - I bought some super strong clear automotive tape off Amazon - it is used for fixing broken headlights and mirrors on cars - I suggest wrapping the end of the tubes (2-3cm or so) in it to help stop the cracking occurring. Both my acrylic tubes cracked in the same spot when cut. I think the tape would provide enough extra strength to stop that happening - just an idea!
For the smoothness on the blades bambu slicer also may be recognizing the the overhang as a bridge and printing with bridge speed rather than overhang speed. Might also help to adjust that speed down.
Let's go! Know you kinda have to use clear tubes for testing, education, but 6in PVC tube be a lot cheaper. Also how many walls and what % infill? 5 rolls seems like a lot
The Y-pieces consume alone like 1.5 spool. I didn’t optimize for cost on the printing part so far. It definitely can do with less material. Saving 1 spool is possible but not worth my time in this stage off the build😅
first of your video's i've ever seen any of your video's. "Hey hello" was all i needed to figure out your nationality 🤣 good work! also. you can just weld the acrylic together with a drop of acetone.
Something I've been wondering looking at the plans is how 'magic' the 500mm length for the main tube is. If it was shortened to 450mm then two could be made with one 6"x36" piece of clear tubing instead of 2. Do you think this would make that big of a difference on performance?
I have the feeling that 450 will work. Only I did not test that. The 500mm was something that Tim from Pilson Guitars had calculated based on the Harvey G700 and scaled it down from 8 to 6 inch.
I make one about a year ago because my cnc router was just too much for just the cyclone. I used drain pipe from the hardware store for the tube it was the most cost effective options.
The superglue you use, isn't that the regular Revell glue used for building kits? Or is it a real CA glue? a tip for the future, make sure the corners of the cutouts in the tubes are round, drill holes in the corners and cut between the holes, this will give you much better strength. Sharp corners lead to cracks in brittle materials.
You are totally right! I used the Revell 39604 Contacta Professional Glue. And thx for the tips, for the PVC version it was not needed, did not had the idea the Acrylic was that brittle!
This project & your videos are great! I've been wondering if a 200mm diameter tube will allow for better small particulate capture, but larger tubes are lots more money. What do you think about printing the tube using clear PETG?
Thx for your nice words! It also crossed my mind! Only I don’t have any experience in printing clear PETG jet. You already can find one on; www.printables.com/model/234567-horizontal-dust-separator Maybe I need to print it to test it in a future video 🤔
Files from MK2 (Beta release) are free available. See for the GitHub link in the description. Work is still in progress only MK2 is performing great in my planer setup.
All parts are designd to print on bambulab build volume(WxDxH) 256 x 256 x 256 mm³. The Y-pieces are on the edge of what is possible in this volume. The rest has some margin.
Hi Ruud, really looking forward to all your upcoming video's!! I will build one as well, so had a look at the links you provided. I live in the Netherlands as well, so took the EU designs. above the link for the acrylic tube you mention 151x3.5mm, but on website you linked you get only the option for 150x3mm. So with that do I need to take the UK files or did the dimensions from the Dutch supplier differ with 1mm? I'm also open to help testing, if you need. I have a 5 inch cyclone available, because I haven't installed it in my setup yet!
No the websites dimensions are not exact the same as you get delivered. I ordered the 150x3 version. The files now on my GitHub page have not the perfect fit for the O-rings in my opinion. I need to make a testprint for that next week to make te seal better. If I can give you a advice. I would bye the PVC tubes. They work so much easier than the Acrylic tubes. I could not find the PVC tubes locally.
@@CapturingDust thanks for the quick response! About the o-rings, you still have the 140mm versions linked I think. Didn’t you use the 120mm now? Only disadvantage I guess is you can’t see if anything gets clogged. Or maybe the static build up?
I just updated the GitHub page! Yes I used 120x3 now. The 140x3 are almost not possible to get into the tubes. The fit/seal is not great now I think. Can’t see the 0-ring pushing against the wall off the tubes like in my PVC version. I only have time in the next week to make test prints for that so I can correct the files. You can use silicone in the groves as well to seal them. I chose the O-rings for easier disassembling of the parts for testing different variations in the future.
Terrific work, and thank you for keeping it open source! I've printed everything and will assemble it soon. Are there any plans to release the models or a parts list for the collection bin interface/lock?
Dear ruud, you have truly done a wonderful job with your work, and i wish you continued success. İ also have a system in my workshop that can handle a 50mm vacuum. Can we adjust the inlet and outlet of your project to fit a 50mm diameter pipe system? Thank you.
This is how filters work in tanks, the tank needs a huge amount of air, i.e. engine running, gas turbine. It is worth looking at how tank filters are constructed and how they have to separate kilos of dust per hour of operation.
It’s also the same principle as in helicopters. Only then they use a lot of small ones in parallel. I like to explore that even more for filtering the very fine dust.
@@CapturingDust There is a video about Russian tanks, and specifically about the drive units of these tanks. Unfortunately, in Russian, luckily for me, someone made a Polish video about this Russian film about the gas turbine. I recommend watching it, with subtitles in your language, unless you understand Polish :). The film on YT is titled, (Jak rosyjska zbrojeniówka produkuje turbinę gazową do T-80 i w czym jest lepsza od turbiny Abramsa?)
What features are present (or planned) for bleeding off static charge? Isn't there a concern about dust explosions? Dust collection pipes are commonly wrapped in a bleeder wire, or are engineered to have the right conductivity to not present that problem.
I wanna try something similar. Instead of the first section of the centrifugal system I'll just use a cyclone though. Then I'll add an impeller after that to separate the small particles. Then a vacuum with a HEPA filter.
It a bit like the cyclonic inlets I am testing with: ruclips.net/user/shortsyXznpm2pys4 Really good for larger dust from planers, not good for fine dust. It will overrun the first stage. You will need a vertical cyclone to benefit from the gravity. I think you had that figured out already?
You have it hook up with the blower pushes the air into the intake (positive pressure). Would it work with negative pressure, i.e. the blower pulling the air from the outlet? That's the way I plan to connect it in my little shop.
Really nice work. Looking forward to building one myself. I'm just wondering, is there a specific reason, that the outlet port (100mm) is smaller than the inlet port (120mm)?
Good question! My Hammer A3-31 has a 120mm connection on it. And my CamVac is 100mm. My thought was that if the dust is removed the volume is less so 100mm on the CamVac should be enough for the 120mm to the Planer. Only during testing I have connected it with a 100mm flexhose on both sides. I put a reducer right after the Planer and put the flexhose with the sleeve of the hose into the 120mm Y-piece. I still need to make magnetic hose adapters for the flexhose and buy a 120mm flexhose for proper testing.
@@CapturingDust Thanks for the quick supply. My idea was to use the 120mm Inlet also as an outlet. I'm just worried, that the second separation stage will be less effective, due to less clearance around the Port. But I'll guess I have to test that.
Do you cut your tubing to 500 mm? I see that the PVC tubing is sold in 36 inch lengths, and was wondering if 500 mm is the ideal length for air movement, or if a longer or shorter piece would work just as well. Thanks!
I took the length from the Pilson Guitars design. He scaled it back from the Harvey design. I have no idea if this is the perfect length for the 6 inch tube. Harvey uses 8 inches, so perhaps the length doesn't scale linearly with respect to the diameter. Testing different length is a bit expensive and time consuming. My feeling is that a bit shorter tube (18 inch) still works fine. Only that is not tested.
That is something I want to find out. For me it’s the hight I did not had. I also ordered a cyclone for testing the differents in CFM/pressure loss and maybe fine dust separation.
I have designed and partly built a similar system. Part of my rationale for the design is that recommendations for dust collection systems always emphasise that both the number and magnitude of direction changes in the ducting should be kept to a minimum, because every direction change reduces the airflow, and large, abrupt direction changes reduce it a lot. For example, two large radius 45-degree bends are always stated as preferable to a single small radius 90 degree bend. Standard cyclones are even worse than that. They cut the airflow downm enormously because they force the airflow to reverse direction through a coplete 180 degrees over a very small distance. So a centrifugal system that maintains the direction of the airflow through its whole length should reduce the velocity of the air significantly less than the standard conical cyclone design. The horizontal orientation is the other part of my rationale - and takes considerably fewer words to describe..
Great project! Is there any chance you'd test it with polystyrene dust? I need a solution when milling polystyrene, as it's so light my small cyclone doesn't work.
Polystyrene is not something I work with and I don’t have a big CNC mil. It is also very static and extremely light weight. I will keep it in mind only not planning on testing it very soon.
Great build! Thank you for sharing your progress on this very interesting process. One question I have - Do you think this design would work if it was rotated ( pitched ) 90 degrees with modified outlet geometry? My shop is extremely small... If this could be wall mounted horizontally, in-line with my dust collector, it would save so much time and effort vs having to constantly deal with my single-stage unit.
This style of separator needs tube axis to be perpenticular to gravity to work properly. A cyclone separator may be a better option for you if you want to stack things vertically.
Sorry, I used Revell 39604 Contacta Professional Glue. It's not a real CA glue I guess more a cement that melts and bonds plastics. Reasonably quick drying. Pretty inexpensive you can get at your local hobby shop.
I understand that this build needs to look pretty for several reasons, one being youtube. However for me I would probably shave off about 50€ by buying tubes that are not see through. However one feature that I would add is the option to disassemble it faster for regular maintenance, so that you can quickly clear larger wood chips. My question is: What kind of vacuum do you have hooked up to the separator?
I use a Record Power CamVac with dual motors. You can save a lot money when you use regular gray pvc pipe. I am looking for a way to include small air nozzles into the 3D print of the shroud so a air compressor can connect to it for cleaning. Just blowing air through the inlet close to the impeller will also help.
Awesome! I’ve been waiting on your next videos. Other than the differing size of tube, are there other design changes? If so, will those be brought to the 6” version as well? Asking as those in the US would probably want an updated version for the 6” tube.
In the EU design I printed the shroud with a somewhat lager cone to see if big particles are better been separated in the first stage without flow/pressure loss. Not tested it so far. In the next week I will try to redesign the Y-pieces so they will need less support or maybe I can eliminate all the supports by working with 45 degrees chamfers for the bracket supports and tekst plate. It’s not a performance thing. Performance testing will take place in a couple months I hope when I build the testing setup.
It works fine for my purposes only I think it can do better so if you have the time I would wait until MK3 is ready. Don’t know when that would be though 😉
@@CapturingDust ok, will do. Thanks for the work! I hope to eventually create. Design that places all components in a single moveable enclosure that adds a bunch of sound proofing. Waiting expectantly on mk3!
Is the 6" version more efficient than the 5" EU version? How much sucking power is needed? Is there a way to calculate the sucking power dependent on the tube diameter?
The EU version is 5,91” so not a big difference. The inlet is 5” on both designs. For the calculation I could not find any formula for that. Still need to find that out some way. I ordered a CFM meter to measure the CFM on my CamVac. Air flow as advertised for my dual motor could be around: 573 CFM at 4′ (CGV336)
Nice job Ruud! I really admire your work and appreciate you and Pilson Guitars sharing it here on RUclips. How can I contact you about a NASA project dealing with dust?
It would really be interesting to see NASA open up to the DIY community to see if we could come up with solutions to their problems. A lot of the answers can come from pre-existing industries that have dealt with dust control for centuries like the quarry and mining industry or construction and trucking industries.
This is the patent filed from Harvey; patents.google.com/patent/USD792568S1/en patents.google.com/patent/US10159990B2/en I think it’s the dual stage that they own the patent for. Tim from Pilson Guitars had sold the plans for his separator design for the first day until he got a mail from Harvey to stop selling it due to the patent they own. I also found a patent of a single stage Axial flow-type cyclone: patents.google.com/patent/EP2832449A1/en It’s not owned by Harvey I believe only it’s about the same for me wat the second stage is about. I’m not a patent expert. And I don’t know in wat countries the patent is filed for.
Yes only in helicopters it is a single stage axial flow cyclone tube. And then many very small ones in parallel mounted between tube plates. The dust is not getting out trough the bottom but trough the back in line with the clean air outlet. Maybe something to try in a similar way for the micro particles as a third stage.
Question from a Engineer, with a dust problem: How much, would You charge, for the 3D drawings for these parts? I am very interested of Your build, and I am interested to have one, as a solution to my problem. As a innovator myself, I appreciate someone, doing these things, knowing all the effort it takes, to make something from a idea, to something physical on the table. Great work, and waiting for the next video from You. from a Finn in Diaspora
Thx for the interest! All the 3D files are free to download via my GitHub page; github.com/Makerr-Studio/CentrifugalDustSeparator- It’s still in development only for me it performs already really great! Only I like to squeeze uit more and understand the different parameters that influence the performance of the design because there is very little research available for this type of separators.
FYI, I've been printing from the STL files and there's notable differences between those files and what I see in this video. Would it be fair to assume that the STEP files are the most up-to-date?
For performance there are no differences. I have the EU version the most up to date. And will add the latest revision you see in part 2 of the in- and out-let, and Y-pieces later today. It should be compatible with older versions. They only need a bit less material to print now.
@@CapturingDust Specifically, I was looking at MK2_impeller-shroud.stl which appears to have a slot for a gasket that I don't see at 5:11, but I just now compared to the STEP file and see that they're the same.
Yes in the EU version I am testing with out the gasket for a more easy assembly. Only the fit must be really tight to achieve the same level of seal so I think the o-ring is helpful to keep in.
Quick Question - did you put the files for attaching the Festool 204294 online? Sorry but can't see them. I am almost finished building the UK version! Couple more prints to go. And yes acrylic likes to split!
They were not released yet. I added them to the STEP folder of the MK2_EU now. It can be used for all versions. Next week I hope to finish the video about that topic and how to install it.
you know you can by a "super dust deputy" cyclone separator from Oneida Air Systems for 134 USD = 120 euro, right ? I have one, it removes everything from planer chips to dust from my drum sander. Almost nothing reaches my hepa filters.
Harvey has also made a transparent demonstration machine of the Gyro Air G700 Dust Processor 😉: m.ruclips.net/video/77_5nzE1oRQ/видео.html Action shots on 1 hour and 09 minutes 👍
Good tip! I looked it up and it is around 2€ per meter for 3mm at shore 70. So 8€ will do! And you can glue them together with Loctite 406 or Loctite 401.
@@CapturingDust Sometimes you need an o-ring to be super critical, so I wouldn't trust myself to get it perfect and would pay for a professional o-ring from a good supplier, but in the application you're using them for, making your own is the way to go.
I think going the route with carbon fiber added to the filament would be a good choice. There is a channel that did an exhausting one or two hour comparison of all the top filaments and highlighted PCTG as one of the best filaments
I did not test that one. I think it is a little too abrasive for the 3D printed parts. Depending on the weight of the dust it might be filtered out for the majority depending of the particle size. That is a guess though.
Ben druk bezig met het printen van alle bestanden. Ik heb echter een systeem van max 100mm afzuiging nodig. Je inlet is 120. Hoe kan ik deze het beste scalen naar 100?
I added the following files for you to the GitHub repository: - MK2_EU_100mm-hose-adapter-to-100mm_REV2.stp (for CamVac flexhose) - MK2_EU_Y-inlet-100mm_REV2.stp - MK2_EU_bracket-inlet-100mm.stp - MK2_EU_inlet_100mm_REV2.stp See the file folder: github.com/Makerr-Studio/CentrifugalDustSeparator-/tree/main/MK2_EU/STEP
I ordered the Oneida-Air Super Dust Deputy 4/5 Cycloon as a DIY to compare it in a future video. I had the same question and couldn’t find any answers. It’s hard to get a hand on one in the Netherlands. Mine is in backorder for 2 months now. Hope to get it soon.
I'm rooting for Ruud's version! Other than spinning the air and making it move closer of further away from the central axis, centrifugal separator has rather streamlined flow compared to a cyclone, where it does an almost 180 change of direction. I hope that means better filtration efficiency to pressure drop ratio.
There's a "code" drop-down menu near the top of the GitHub repository (for me the drop-down is green, but I don't use the default view). When you click that, there'll be an option to download a ZIP file.
You learned the hard way why PVC tubes are worth the expense. Acrylic is just not made for this type of application. It also scratches absurdly easy, so it's clarity will diminish with time.
The only thing I'd design differently, I'd design the impeller to use a TPU printed gasket. This would allow for easy installation, and would help seal it from bypass airflow. This would also allow you to print thicker seals, that would resist air pressure. Btw, great design concept. Very cool build. Once i had a working concept, I'd build it to use regular construction PVC. It wont crack like acrylic. Also, if you use cast acrylic, it will resist cracking better then extruded (if you really want the transparency).
Cool to read you build your own! I only printed PLA so far but it is a great idea to make use of the multiple printable materials. I also have the tubes is casted acrylic only it is twice as expensive in material. So did not cut them for now. Thx for your feedback! Appreciate it!
@@CapturingDust Any fexible/TPU is a material you should absolutely give a try. They open up a whole world of possibilities. More than any alternative to PLA (like PETG, ABS or any other specific material), since those all basically are the same: more or less stiff. If you never try the "flexible half" of the filaments, you could potentially also miss out on half of the fun 😄
This was locally available for me and much cheaper to buy. I could not find clear PVC locally. So this was something I tried. Only it’s not my favorite material 😅.
I totally agree with you on that 😉. Never worked with acrylic in this way so I needed to find it out the hard way! Cheap comes with a other cost most times 😅.
Lots of work to separate dirt from air. A shop vac would be much cheaper and available. Made a powder separator out of 20 gal cardboard barrel. Worked for nearly 37 years. Lifted plastic powder off conveyor belt by High speed blower blown through side of barrel at angle. Worked well.
My CamVac works fine! For 20 minutes until the bin is full and cleaning it is a hassle 😉. Like to find out with this channel how good the most simple dust separator out of a waste bin will perform compared to a thien baffle and cyclone. And this complex system. Sometimes curiosity strikes 😅
This is overly complicated for what a simple centrifuge can do.......I bought a centrifuge unit on EBAY and coupled it to a vac motor and mounted it onto a 25litre steel drum........that is as simple as it needs to get and this one I made will handle metal swarf and sawdust too.
I think he’s German (although that’s only going off his accent). But if he is German than this is totally expected, he forgot to mention he moonlights for Mercedes as the lead F1 designer.
Hi, This is sarah.Your content is quite a match with our brand's service and application scene. I would like to invite you to experience our 3DPrinting service and test our materials. May I ask about your interests?
Hello Sara. Thank you for reaching out. I started this channel with no intention of acquiring sponsorship. I just try to build things that can help improve the creator community and be as transparent and independent as possible in that regard.
@@CapturingDustI got it. I am quite interested in your project and creativity. If you have any project that needs some product support, please contact me. We can build some custom parts for you to finish the special design.
@@CapturingDust Goed werk maat, ik denk dat het zelfs nog wat goedkoper zou kunnen. 200 euro is nogal wat, en dan de tijd voor het printen van de onderdelen nog (in kosten gezien dan). Ondanks dat, knap bedacht en gemaakt.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Acrylic cement can fuse PLA together, and PLA to acrylic, and the joint is less britle than super glue. the cracked tube can definitely be saved.
Drill 4 corners first before cutting the opening on acrylic may relieve some stress in the corners, making it less likely to crack.
I like your mirrored design, and they look great together.
Ruud can you do a video on your workshop. It looks amazing! You should make your channel more general, not just dust collection, you are clearly a talented maker/engineer. Want to see more of your work
Ever since I've seen Robert of Aging Wheels making a centrifugal dust separator for his second channel, Under Dunn, I've just automatically been watching and upvoting any DIY centrifugal dust separator video lol
I also really enjoyed watching this build video! Only without Tim from Pilson Guitars I never would make it myself 😅.
I see Centrifugal Dust Separator, videos, and I upvote.
It took me seconds to recognize that your channel is great, subscribed and liked in less than a minute
If we assume that the design of the separator is perfected and we have transparent containers and transparent inner and outer hoses before and after the separator, we then can eliminate the need for the transparent acrylic tube and use just a regular plastic waste water pipe. It can be cut much more easily, it is a bit more durable and flexible. This way we eliminate one big part of the cost of the build.
A good video of someone making something interesting without silly 3d intros and music!!! Yes please!
I like the silence of only the tools myself. Good to hear you like that style too!
You can probably get tubes out of polycarbonate for a similar price as acrylic.
Those will be less clear (only slightly) but also less brittle.
....I am SOOOO going to buid this. Even without plans, I can see the theory. Beyond briliant 👍. Thank you for the insite and your incredible ability to put theory into practice 😉.
Cheers
Pete' New Zealand.
Excellent video. Nice to see some innovation and new thinking to this problem.
Nice build! On a different note any time I see someone with an x1c without the gold pei build plate I always feel the need to recommend it. The bed adhesion is so good you don't need to print with brims or glue for pla and petg to stick. Since I purchased mine ive run 10s of kilos of filament on 100s of prints and have had less than 5 have adhesion issues. Its truly a game changer
I feel like this is the best tip of the month! I directly ordered one 👍. I need lots of glue with the standard plate so that would be perfect if we can eliminate that 😀
@@CapturingDust Just be sure to clean it with a bit of alcohol every once in a while and be mindful that your fingers leave behind oils that hurt adhesion so try to limit the amount you touch the plate directly where the parts might print and you shouldn't have issues again. Good luck
Edit: Also after printing on it wait for the bed to cool to room temp and the part will come off incredibly easy. It feels like magic
I said it on the Pilson video, but I REALLY do need to get this sorted now that you've put in some extra work already. Great work.
Hiii Ruud ouwe collega!!! Heel tof om je video’s te zien! Echt super uitgelegd en leuk om naar te kijken! Moet je zeker vaker doen! Groetjes tommy
Ha die Tommy! Leuk dat het filmpje ook jou gevonden heeft en dat jij het ook leuk vond om te kijken. Deel twee is in de maak dus dat komt goed!
@@CapturingDustKijk er naar uit!
@5:48 I watched this part 4 times. damn those drawers are smooth!
I know! I copied the design of Dennis from the channel hooked on wood:
m.ruclips.net/video/CXXyA8QlOuM/видео.html
Really nice project! If you need any help with some specific material or 3D printing some parts maybe big ones or tiny ones, happy to help out with my company 😉 I'm in the Netherlands as well, from your Houdoe you should be in Brabant 🙂so we are not that far
The quarry industry quit using cyclone filters years ago (I think Tarmac held a few patents on them) because they don't filter the smallest particals, they switched to bag filters with reverse air blowing to clean off the built up dust.
Nobody is relying on these to capture the ultra fine particles, there is a fine filter after these to do that.
This is so awesome, thanks for sharing!
Excellent video. Well done!
This is awesome. Looking forward to built it myself. Thanks for the adaptation for the european standard :)
One more thought for those in the UK - I bought some super strong clear automotive tape off Amazon - it is used for fixing broken headlights and mirrors on cars - I suggest wrapping the end of the tubes (2-3cm or so) in it to help stop the cracking occurring. Both my acrylic tubes cracked in the same spot when cut. I think the tape would provide enough extra strength to stop that happening - just an idea!
Just a super thank you for your dedication to this project.
And thank you for watching and your kind comment! Means a lot 😊
For the smoothness on the blades bambu slicer also may be recognizing the the overhang as a bridge and printing with bridge speed rather than overhang speed. Might also help to adjust that speed down.
That looks like a really bad ass exhaust
So im not the only one thought of this! Thanks a lot!
Let's go!
Know you kinda have to use clear tubes for testing, education, but 6in PVC tube be a lot cheaper. Also how many walls and what % infill? 5 rolls seems like a lot
The Y-pieces consume alone like 1.5 spool. I didn’t optimize for cost on the printing part so far. It definitely can do with less material. Saving 1 spool is possible but not worth my time in this stage off the build😅
I'll with you on standard tubes. 6 inch pvc would be soooooo cheap
first of your video's i've ever seen any of your video's. "Hey hello" was all i needed to figure out your nationality 🤣 good work! also. you can just weld the acrylic together with a drop of acetone.
Loving these videos wish they would come faster. Can't wait for more testing.
I wish that too 😅. Only it’s a lot work to get it well on video and I need to do all that in my free time. Part 2 will come sooner😉.
@@CapturingDust Totally understand. Keep up the great work.
You are a lifesaver. (literally by stopping me from dying of lung disease). lol
Super video, top gedaan!
Something I've been wondering looking at the plans is how 'magic' the 500mm length for the main tube is. If it was shortened to 450mm then two could be made with one 6"x36" piece of clear tubing instead of 2. Do you think this would make that big of a difference on performance?
I have the feeling that 450 will work. Only I did not test that. The 500mm was something that Tim from Pilson Guitars had calculated based on the Harvey G700 and scaled it down from 8 to 6 inch.
I make one about a year ago because my cnc router was just too much for just the cyclone. I used drain pipe from the hardware store for the tube it was the most cost effective options.
great work!
The superglue you use, isn't that the regular Revell glue used for building kits? Or is it a real CA glue? a tip for the future, make sure the corners of the cutouts in the tubes are round, drill holes in the corners and cut between the holes, this will give you much better strength. Sharp corners lead to cracks in brittle materials.
You are totally right! I used the Revell 39604 Contacta Professional Glue. And thx for the tips, for the PVC version it was not needed, did not had the idea the Acrylic was that brittle!
You need to do some at home dust collection for rooms and houses
very very cool! thank you!
This project & your videos are great! I've been wondering if a 200mm diameter tube will allow for better small particulate capture, but larger tubes are lots more money. What do you think about printing the tube using clear PETG?
Thx for your nice words! It also crossed my mind! Only I don’t have any experience in printing clear PETG jet.
You already can find one on;
www.printables.com/model/234567-horizontal-dust-separator
Maybe I need to print it to test it in a future video 🤔
Mooi werk.
Waiting to see if you have the 3D files available, either purchase or free. Great video. Subscribed and thumb 👍 up.
Files from MK2 (Beta release) are free available. See for the GitHub link in the description. Work is still in progress only MK2 is performing great in my planer setup.
Cool! I need one for my machine! Thank you
Looks great, definitely excited to give this a try. What is the required print volume?
All parts are designd to print on bambulab build volume(WxDxH) 256 x 256 x 256 mm³. The Y-pieces are on the edge of what is possible in this volume. The rest has some margin.
Hi Ruud, really looking forward to all your upcoming video's!! I will build one as well, so had a look at the links you provided. I live in the Netherlands as well, so took the EU designs. above the link for the acrylic tube you mention 151x3.5mm, but on website you linked you get only the option for 150x3mm. So with that do I need to take the UK files or did the dimensions from the Dutch supplier differ with 1mm? I'm also open to help testing, if you need. I have a 5 inch cyclone available, because I haven't installed it in my setup yet!
No the websites dimensions are not exact the same as you get delivered. I ordered the 150x3 version.
The files now on my GitHub page have not the perfect fit for the O-rings in my opinion. I need to make a testprint for that next week to make te seal better.
If I can give you a advice. I would bye the PVC tubes. They work so much easier than the Acrylic tubes. I could not find the PVC tubes locally.
@@CapturingDust thanks for the quick response! About the o-rings, you still have the 140mm versions linked I think. Didn’t you use the 120mm now?
Only disadvantage I guess is you can’t see if anything gets clogged. Or maybe the static build up?
I just updated the GitHub page! Yes I used 120x3 now. The 140x3 are almost not possible to get into the tubes. The fit/seal is not great now I think. Can’t see the 0-ring pushing against the wall off the tubes like in my PVC version.
I only have time in the next week to make test prints for that so I can correct the files.
You can use silicone in the groves as well to seal them. I chose the O-rings for easier disassembling of the parts for testing different variations in the future.
Terrific work, and thank you for keeping it open source! I've printed everything and will assemble it soon.
Are there any plans to release the models or a parts list for the collection bin interface/lock?
I am working on a video about the baseplate and the T-loc design containers. Files will be released with that video.
Dear ruud, you have truly done a wonderful job with your work, and i wish you continued success. İ also have a system in my workshop that can handle a 50mm vacuum. Can we adjust the inlet and outlet of your project to fit a 50mm diameter pipe system? Thank you.
This is how filters work in tanks, the tank needs a huge amount of air, i.e. engine running, gas turbine. It is worth looking at how tank filters are constructed and how they have to separate kilos of dust per hour of operation.
It’s also the same principle as in helicopters. Only then they use a lot of small ones in parallel. I like to explore that even more for filtering the very fine dust.
@@CapturingDust There is a video about Russian tanks, and specifically about the drive units of these tanks. Unfortunately, in Russian, luckily for me, someone made a Polish video about this Russian film about the gas turbine. I recommend watching it, with subtitles in your language, unless you understand Polish :). The film on YT is titled, (Jak rosyjska zbrojeniówka produkuje turbinę gazową do T-80 i w czym jest lepsza od turbiny Abramsa?)
Nice 21:31 I can see the centrifuges! Thx for the tip!
What features are present (or planned) for bleeding off static charge? Isn't there a concern about dust explosions? Dust collection pipes are commonly wrapped in a bleeder wire, or are engineered to have the right conductivity to not present that problem.
In my PVC version I included a copper tape along the sides of the pipe. Not jet grounded it so I don’t know if it made any difference.
I wanna try something similar.
Instead of the first section of the centrifugal system I'll just use a cyclone though. Then I'll add an impeller after that to separate the small particles. Then a vacuum with a HEPA filter.
It a bit like the cyclonic inlets I am testing with: ruclips.net/user/shortsyXznpm2pys4
Really good for larger dust from planers, not good for fine dust. It will overrun the first stage.
You will need a vertical cyclone to benefit from the gravity. I think you had that figured out already?
@@CapturingDust Yup, that's exactly my plan. 👍
You have it hook up with the blower pushes the air into the intake (positive pressure). Would it work with negative pressure, i.e. the blower pulling the air from the outlet? That's the way I plan to connect it in my little shop.
Yes definitely! Mine is a redesign of the Pilson Guitars build. He uses a blower in the front; m.ruclips.net/video/R4R9GfCQrW4/видео.html&
Finally!!
Thank you for your patience in waiting!
Really nice work. Looking forward to building one myself. I'm just wondering, is there a specific reason, that the outlet port (100mm) is smaller than the inlet port (120mm)?
Good question! My Hammer A3-31 has a 120mm connection on it. And my CamVac is 100mm. My thought was that if the dust is removed the volume is less so 100mm on the CamVac should be enough for the 120mm to the Planer.
Only during testing I have connected it with a 100mm flexhose on both sides. I put a reducer right after the Planer and put the flexhose with the sleeve of the hose into the 120mm Y-piece. I still need to make magnetic hose adapters for the flexhose and buy a 120mm flexhose for proper testing.
@@CapturingDust Thanks for the quick supply. My idea was to use the 120mm Inlet also as an outlet. I'm just worried, that the second separation stage will be less effective, due to less clearance around the Port. But I'll guess I have to test that.
To clarify. I have to redesign the inner outlet to 87mm so the bigger port can fit.
If I were to try this with standard 6" pvc thats not clear, what things would you delete as far as don't affect the performance 😅
If you only process fine dust I would skip the first stage completely.
Je bent de eerste nederlandse houtwerker op mijn thuis pagina
Dat vind ik een hele eer! In het aankomende filmpje ga ik pas echt hout bewerken 😉
@@CapturingDust ja het was heel duidelijk je zware accent verraade dat je niet engels was
Do you cut your tubing to 500 mm? I see that the PVC tubing is sold in 36 inch lengths, and was wondering if 500 mm is the ideal length for air movement, or if a longer or shorter piece would work just as well. Thanks!
I took the length from the Pilson Guitars design. He scaled it back from the Harvey design. I have no idea if this is the perfect length for the 6 inch tube. Harvey uses 8 inches, so perhaps the length doesn't scale linearly with respect to the diameter.
Testing different length is a bit expensive and time consuming. My feeling is that a bit shorter tube (18 inch) still works fine. Only that is not tested.
@@CapturingDust Thank you for your reply. I will let you know what I decide to do and how that length performed.
Impressive build! What is the benefit of this over the usual dust cyclone design? This one seems a lot more complicated.
That is something I want to find out. For me it’s the hight I did not had. I also ordered a cyclone for testing the differents in CFM/pressure loss and maybe fine dust separation.
@@CapturingDust Sounds great! I'm looking forward to your conclusion
I have designed and partly built a similar system. Part of my rationale for the design is that recommendations for dust collection systems always emphasise that both the number and magnitude of direction changes in the ducting should be kept to a minimum, because every direction change reduces the airflow, and large, abrupt direction changes reduce it a lot. For example, two large radius 45-degree bends are always stated as preferable to a single small radius 90 degree bend. Standard cyclones are even worse than that. They cut the airflow downm enormously because they force the airflow to reverse direction through a coplete 180 degrees over a very small distance. So a centrifugal system that maintains the direction of the airflow through its whole length should reduce the velocity of the air significantly less than the standard conical cyclone design.
The horizontal orientation is the other part of my rationale - and takes considerably fewer words to describe..
Looks just like my double-chambered exhaust but larger lolz
Great project! Is there any chance you'd test it with polystyrene dust? I need a solution when milling polystyrene, as it's so light my small cyclone doesn't work.
Polystyrene is not something I work with and I don’t have a big CNC mil. It is also very static and extremely light weight. I will keep it in mind only not planning on testing it very soon.
Great build! Thank you for sharing your progress on this very interesting process.
One question I have - Do you think this design would work if it was rotated ( pitched ) 90 degrees with modified outlet geometry? My shop is extremely small... If this could be wall mounted horizontally, in-line with my dust collector, it would save so much time and effort vs having to constantly deal with my single-stage unit.
This style of separator needs tube axis to be perpenticular to gravity to work properly. A cyclone separator may be a better option for you if you want to stack things vertically.
5:01 What is that needle you have there? I know it's glue, but I've never seen a super glue brand with that form. I would like some more info on it.
Sorry, I used Revell 39604 Contacta Professional Glue. It's not a real CA glue I guess more a cement that melts and bonds plastics. Reasonably quick drying. Pretty inexpensive you can get at your local hobby shop.
I understand that this build needs to look pretty for several reasons, one being youtube. However for me I would probably shave off about 50€ by buying tubes that are not see through. However one feature that I would add is the option to disassemble it faster for regular maintenance, so that you can quickly clear larger wood chips. My question is: What kind of vacuum do you have hooked up to the separator?
I use a Record Power CamVac with dual motors. You can save a lot money when you use regular gray pvc pipe.
I am looking for a way to include small air nozzles into the 3D print of the shroud so a air compressor can connect to it for cleaning. Just blowing air through the inlet close to the impeller will also help.
@@CapturingDust Thanks to your info I just received my Camvac cgv336-4 today. I will repair my oöd 3d printer and get to pronting the separator
Netjes man
Awesome! I’ve been waiting on your next videos. Other than the differing size of tube, are there other design changes? If so, will those be brought to the 6” version as well? Asking as those in the US would probably want an updated version for the 6” tube.
In the EU design I printed the shroud with a somewhat lager cone to see if big particles are better been separated in the first stage without flow/pressure loss. Not tested it so far.
In the next week I will try to redesign the Y-pieces so they will need less support or maybe I can eliminate all the supports by working with 45 degrees chamfers for the bracket supports and tekst plate. It’s not a performance thing.
Performance testing will take place in a couple months I hope when I build the testing setup.
@@CapturingDustok. If someone wants to eventually copy your design, should I wait until your complete? I’m not in a rush on my end.
It works fine for my purposes only I think it can do better so if you have the time I would wait until MK3 is ready. Don’t know when that would be though 😉
@@CapturingDust ok, will do. Thanks for the work! I hope to eventually create. Design that places all components in a single moveable enclosure that adds a bunch of sound proofing. Waiting expectantly on mk3!
Is the Festool T-Locs coming in part 2? I'm not seeing them in Github repo or in the other videos. Thanks for sharing this.
Yes they will! You can find the STEP-files already in the MK2_EU folder.
Wow this looks awesome! Do you have plans to release or sell the plans once finished? Looks like a fun project
Al the files are for free to download on my GitHub site: github.com/Makerr-Studio/CentrifugalDustSeparator-
Is the 6" version more efficient than the 5" EU version? How much sucking power is needed? Is there a way to calculate the sucking power dependent on the tube diameter?
The EU version is 5,91” so not a big difference. The inlet is 5” on both designs.
For the calculation I could not find any formula for that. Still need to find that out some way. I ordered a CFM meter to measure the CFM on my CamVac. Air flow as advertised for my dual motor could be around: 573 CFM at 4′ (CGV336)
Nice job Ruud! I really admire your work and appreciate you and Pilson Guitars sharing it here on RUclips. How can I contact you about a NASA project dealing with dust?
It would really be interesting to see NASA open up to the DIY community to see if we could come up with solutions to their problems. A lot of the answers can come from pre-existing industries that have dealt with dust control for centuries like the quarry and mining industry or construction and trucking industries.
Where are you buying the acrylic from? And how much, I mostly get suppliers that are in the uk, and that does not really work on the continent
I listed the suppliers on my GitHub page: github.com/Makerr-Studio/CentrifugalDustSeparator-
Hey Ruud, amazing work! I would be extremely happy if I could buy the finished dust separator from you, do you plan to do this? Cheers from Utrecht
Harvey owns the patent for this type of separator. So to buy the finished product from me is not allowed.
@@CapturingDust I would be interested in looking into this more if you want to chat about the patents.
This is the patent filed from Harvey;
patents.google.com/patent/USD792568S1/en
patents.google.com/patent/US10159990B2/en
I think it’s the dual stage that they own the patent for. Tim from Pilson Guitars had sold the plans for his separator design for the first day until he got a mail from Harvey to stop selling it due to the patent they own.
I also found a patent of a single stage Axial flow-type cyclone:
patents.google.com/patent/EP2832449A1/en
It’s not owned by Harvey I believe only it’s about the same for me wat the second stage is about.
I’m not a patent expert. And I don’t know in wat countries the patent is filed for.
Is this similar to an inlet particle separator for helicopter turbines?
Yes only in helicopters it is a single stage axial flow cyclone tube. And then many very small ones in parallel mounted between tube plates. The dust is not getting out trough the bottom but trough the back in line with the clean air outlet.
Maybe something to try in a similar way for the micro particles as a third stage.
Question from a Engineer, with a dust problem:
How much, would You charge, for the 3D drawings for these parts?
I am very interested of Your build, and I am interested to have one, as a solution to my problem.
As a innovator myself, I appreciate someone, doing these things, knowing all the effort it takes, to make something from a idea, to something physical on the table.
Great work, and waiting for the next video from You.
from a Finn in Diaspora
Thx for the interest! All the 3D files are free to download via my GitHub page; github.com/Makerr-Studio/CentrifugalDustSeparator-
It’s still in development only for me it performs already really great! Only I like to squeeze uit more and understand the different parameters that influence the performance of the design because there is very little research available for this type of separators.
FYI, I've been printing from the STL files and there's notable differences between those files and what I see in this video. Would it be fair to assume that the STEP files are the most up-to-date?
For performance there are no differences. I have the EU version the most up to date. And will add the latest revision you see in part 2 of the in- and out-let, and Y-pieces later today. It should be compatible with older versions. They only need a bit less material to print now.
@@CapturingDust Specifically, I was looking at MK2_impeller-shroud.stl which appears to have a slot for a gasket that I don't see at 5:11, but I just now compared to the STEP file and see that they're the same.
Yes in the EU version I am testing with out the gasket for a more easy assembly. Only the fit must be really tight to achieve the same level of seal so I think the o-ring is helpful to keep in.
@@CapturingDust Ah! That makes sense now. ty!
Quick Question - did you put the files for attaching the Festool 204294 online? Sorry but can't see them. I am almost finished building the UK version! Couple more prints to go. And yes acrylic likes to split!
They were not released yet. I added them to the STEP folder of the MK2_EU now. It can be used for all versions. Next week I hope to finish the video about that topic and how to install it.
Amazing thanks!
you know you can by a "super dust deputy" cyclone separator from Oneida Air Systems for 134 USD = 120 euro, right ? I have one, it removes everything from planer chips to dust from my drum sander. Almost nothing reaches my hepa filters.
I have one in backorder for 2 months now. Hard to get in the Netherlands. Like to test the differents between them.
That looks like the inside of my Harvey. Now I know how it works
Harvey has also made a transparent demonstration machine of the Gyro Air G700 Dust Processor 😉: m.ruclips.net/video/77_5nzE1oRQ/видео.html
Action shots on 1 hour and 09 minutes 👍
Hello Ruud. do you sell the printed parts or files ? Best regards Christian.
The files are for free to download on my GitHub page. I don’t sell printed parts.
you're overpaying for O-rings. you can get O-ring material by the meter and then splice together what size you need.
Good tip! I looked it up and it is around 2€ per meter for 3mm at shore 70. So 8€ will do! And you can glue them together with Loctite 406 or Loctite 401.
@@CapturingDust Sometimes you need an o-ring to be super critical, so I wouldn't trust myself to get it perfect and would pay for a professional o-ring from a good supplier, but in the application you're using them for, making your own is the way to go.
I was actually going to suggest doing the same thing, but just use TPU filament if there is any on hand.
Has anyone tried printing the components in PETG?
I think going the route with carbon fiber added to the filament would be a good choice. There is a channel that did an exhausting one or two hour comparison of all the top filaments and highlighted PCTG as one of the best filaments
Looks nice enough to just hang on the wall.
На какой минуте видео испытания? Или это просто массогабаритный макет?
How does the dust seperator works with dust from stone or metal?
I did not test that one. I think it is a little too abrasive for the 3D printed parts. Depending on the weight of the dust it might be filtered out for the majority depending of the particle size. That is a guess though.
If you have a metal shop, I would definitely add a magnetic field to the dust separator to capture the heavier particles
Very nice! Have your tried 3D printing the seals from TPU? This has worked for me in many applications. Low lead time, customizable, low cost.
No I did not tried it. What kind of fillement did you use for it? Bambu Lab only sells TPU 95A HF
@@CapturingDust Sadly the spool(a few years old) doesn't list the Shore rating, and the name is "eLastic", which is super hard to search for.
Ben druk bezig met het printen van alle bestanden. Ik heb echter een systeem van max 100mm afzuiging nodig. Je inlet is 120. Hoe kan ik deze het beste scalen naar 100?
I added the following files for you to the GitHub repository:
- MK2_EU_100mm-hose-adapter-to-100mm_REV2.stp (for CamVac flexhose)
- MK2_EU_Y-inlet-100mm_REV2.stp
- MK2_EU_bracket-inlet-100mm.stp
- MK2_EU_inlet_100mm_REV2.stp
See the file folder:
github.com/Makerr-Studio/CentrifugalDustSeparator-/tree/main/MK2_EU/STEP
@ thnx alot! Im trying to use a different container to make it a cheaper build. Once done I can share my findings/files with you .
That would be nice! In USA someone already used different types of containers only they are not sold in Europe.
Netjes hoor.. Mooi gemaakt.
Moet ik nu alleen nog een 3d printer kopen :-( om dit na te gaan maken 🙂
Je kunt prints gewoon bestellen bijvoorbeeld op Tweakers.
Has anyone compared the performance of this type of separator against an Oneida Cyclone?
I ordered the Oneida-Air Super Dust Deputy 4/5 Cycloon as a DIY to compare it in a future video. I had the same question and couldn’t find any answers.
It’s hard to get a hand on one in the Netherlands. Mine is in backorder for 2 months now. Hope to get it soon.
I'm rooting for Ruud's version!
Other than spinning the air and making it move closer of further away from the central axis, centrifugal separator has rather streamlined flow compared to a cyclone, where it does an almost 180 change of direction. I hope that means better filtration efficiency to pressure drop ratio.
@@CapturingDust Awesome, great work!
Hello Ruud from Canada, I’m new to github, how do i locate the downloadable files for your awesome project.
Thanks
There's a "code" drop-down menu near the top of the GitHub repository (for me the drop-down is green, but I don't use the default view). When you click that, there'll be an option to download a ZIP file.
You learned the hard way why PVC tubes are worth the expense. Acrylic is just not made for this type of application. It also scratches absurdly easy, so it's clarity will diminish with time.
That’s why I build the first one out off PVC 😉
The only thing I'd design differently, I'd design the impeller to use a TPU printed gasket. This would allow for easy installation, and would help seal it from bypass airflow. This would also allow you to print thicker seals, that would resist air pressure. Btw, great design concept. Very cool build. Once i had a working concept, I'd build it to use regular construction PVC. It wont crack like acrylic. Also, if you use cast acrylic, it will resist cracking better then extruded (if you really want the transparency).
Cool to read you build your own! I only printed PLA so far but it is a great idea to make use of the multiple printable materials. I also have the tubes is casted acrylic only it is twice as expensive in material. So did not cut them for now. Thx for your feedback! Appreciate it!
@@CapturingDust Any fexible/TPU is a material you should absolutely give a try.
They open up a whole world of possibilities. More than any alternative to PLA (like PETG, ABS or any other specific material), since those all basically are the same: more or less stiff.
If you never try the "flexible half" of the filaments, you could potentially also miss out on half of the fun 😄
Why go for acrylic vs pvc?
This was locally available for me and much cheaper to buy. I could not find clear PVC locally. So this was something I tried. Only it’s not my favorite material 😅.
@@CapturingDustah fair enough. So it’s not so much a functional choice. I prefer working with pvc over acrylic.
I totally agree with you on that 😉. Never worked with acrylic in this way so I needed to find it out the hard way! Cheap comes with a other cost most times 😅.
I smell Dutch
Lots of work to separate dirt from air.
A shop vac would be much cheaper and available.
Made a powder separator out of 20 gal cardboard barrel.
Worked for nearly 37 years. Lifted plastic powder off conveyor belt by
High speed blower blown through side of barrel at angle. Worked well.
My CamVac works fine! For 20 minutes until the bin is full and cleaning it is a hassle 😉. Like to find out with this channel how good the most simple dust separator out of a waste bin will perform compared to a thien baffle and cyclone. And this complex system. Sometimes curiosity strikes 😅
Budget Dust Collection, for your Festools ??
Isn't that a bit like using the cheapest trailer to transport a Ferrari?
Yes the challenge is to make it as good as the Festools. That’s going to be a hard one. For the time being I use it only on the Hammer😅.
This is overly complicated for what a simple centrifuge can do.......I bought a centrifuge unit on EBAY and coupled it to a vac motor and mounted it onto a 25litre steel drum........that is as simple as it needs to get and this one I made will handle metal swarf and sawdust too.
Happy to hear the type of centrifuge you bought from Ebay. Do you have a link to it?
I think he’s German (although that’s only going off his accent). But if he is German than this is totally expected, he forgot to mention he moonlights for Mercedes as the lead F1 designer.
Hi, This is sarah.Your content is quite a match with our brand's service and application scene. I would like to invite you to experience our 3DPrinting service and test our materials. May I ask about your interests?
Hello Sara. Thank you for reaching out. I started this channel with no intention of acquiring sponsorship. I just try to build things that can help improve the creator community and be as transparent and independent as possible in that regard.
@@CapturingDustI got it. I am quite interested in your project and creativity. If you have any project that needs some product support, please contact me. We can build some custom parts for you to finish the special design.
Thx Sara! I'll keep it in mind!
Houdoe ???? Brabander ? lol ?
Jazeker!
@@CapturingDust Goed werk maat, ik denk dat het zelfs nog wat goedkoper zou kunnen. 200 euro is nogal wat, en dan de tijd voor het printen van de onderdelen nog (in kosten gezien dan). Ondanks dat, knap bedacht en gemaakt.