Water Heater Repair Replacing a Corroded Supply Line
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- We had an electric water heater that had a badly corroded connection between the flexible supply line and the heat-trap nipple. I show you the entire process from start to finish to replace these two parts. There are a few challenges along the way, but we make the repair and save ourselves a lot of money in the process!
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I’m glad that they don’t edit the struggle moments. That make me have confidence, I feel like “it’s normal don’t do it easy but I can do it”
No doubt, my nipples look like this, scary but needs to be replace. Wish me luck happy thanksgiving
Excellent video for not editing out the struggle removing the fitting.
Big props for keeping that difficult moment in the video. In the real world, this is what happens. I started working on cars about three years ago and youtube videos were certainly helpful. All of the plastic crap that snapped or the things I dropped through from the top down--starting with my first attempt at car repair--it's a rarity to show the true difficulties in these types of tasks. I appreciate that moment above all in your video, as I type with a broken knuckle (from hitting frame while breaking a bolt free in a parking lot somewhere.) I am almost ready to replace the two water lines going into my water heater plus the pressure relief valve. Your video is part of my prep work. Your video is unique in showing the difficult part and also in your decision to change the fitting that goes into the water heater. Thanks.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
I actually appreciated that the guy before me left the labels on the corrugated pipes, since, as a homeowner not a plumber, I could not tell by eye that they were 3/4" FIP. This way I could buy new BEFORE tearing it apart and leaving the house water off while I ran to the plumbing supply house. Sped up the process, less angst for the wife.
DIYers be mindful that rocking and partial rotation of the tanks piped with rigid natural gas piping could compromise gas connections especially at unions. Excellent video for electric water heater.
Great point! Thank you for your comments.
I tighten the fitting just a bit to break it loose then remove normally. A trick I have been using for years
Or, he could just use a cheat bar for better leverage.
Thank you for a "real" world example of replacing a heat-trap nipple with all the effort.
"There are a few challenges along the way" . I repair with success my tank today, because you show in your video, how to face some difficulties. Thanks again
Love an honest video that shows all the possibilities of encounters & how to deal with those problems.
Hate most videos that actually go as far to edit skip entire whole STEPS
Because they had problems& they just don't want to show any problems they had.
Thank you. I was going to call a plumber but after watching your video decided to try it myself. I was concerned because I had to cut the copper pipe to remove the connection. It had a one piece soldered on copper flex pipe w/fitting. I purchase a flex hose from home depot that had a "shark-bite" end so I could just push on. Looks like it made a good seal and all is working. I will check off &on over next couple days.
Thank you. Had the same problem with mine and used this video to fix. I had called four plumbers and no calls back. Now it’s fixed and all I had to buy was some tape, dope and a hose kit. I really appreciate your video! Most the videos I saw were gas jobs. Finally saw this video and it looked exactly like my electric unit.
Thank you Sarah for wiping up that rusty gunk on the top of the tank. You are not the only one that it was driving crazy !!
You are so welcome!
I love seeing people do these kinds of repairs. It gives me and others confidence on doing the same. Great video and excellent effort. That fitting took a lot of blows to remove... wow!
I love it when the wife calls to have it fixed properly after hubby fucks it up.
I always loved those calls.
@@kimwelstead8994
This video gave me the confidence to repair my water heater. Damn cold inlet corroded. Gave me an opportunity to use the induction heater I recently bought-it made the nipple relatively simple to remove
Thank you!, I have a solar hot water heater and the nipple for the pump supply line started leaking, company that installed system wouldn't touch it because they were afraid it would break during removal. Wanted $2400 to replace the tank. Local plumbing company told me same thing. Got the replacement nipple/dip tube assembly from the manufacturer Bradford White for $36 including shipping. Used a pipe wrench and hammer to tap it out just like you showed, came out easy and installed new one myself, system works perfect now!
It is so great to hear stories like yours! We are very happy you were able to save $2400 and get it working too! Nice work!
Good video, sending it to my son to replace his. Couple of things I would do different, remove the gasket from the old hose and thread it on the new nipple, then you can use the wrench to tighten it without damaging the threads. Also, when I use Teflon tape, I don't cover the first two or three threads so it's easier to start putting on the new hose by hand.
Thank you SO much for this video. Just what I needed to change the top hose for cold water on my tank which started to leak. It cost me $18 for the hose and 20min later I had it fixed. A plumber would have charged me $250. Yikes!!
Excellent. I got stuck on Christmas Eve with the hardware stores closed. We had a kinked copper ribbed in take and it was leaking two days. I'm part deaf so I didn't hear it as it's a outdoor water heater. Lowered water pressure, a friend attempted to solder the crack but it still leaked but much less. Tomorrow a plumber is coming to replace it but also the top valve unit and will need to break the stucco wall a bit to secure the galvanized pipe. My ceiling pipes are copper but not the drop down pipes. My house has 3 shut off valves we installed to isolate if needed.
Thanks for showing the real deal on getting that corroded connection loose...
It's the flix hose stop using those
If you call hammering away, thus risk damaging the inside of the tank, the real deal? Some penetrating lubricant left for 10 mins would have accomplished an easy removal.
@@hatespeechisntreal Yep, I’ve changed out 100s of those that breakdown and plug up all the aerators and showerheads. Or found them shooting off like old faithful in the middle of the night because they break down.
@@reno5948 I was watching the video and said, "time to get the Deep Creep." It's still good that he shows that it's not always super easy to do repairs. When most videos show everything going according to plan, then newbies have no guidance when things do go wrong. I appreciated him showing the problem more than how he dealt with it. I do get what you mean.
Great explanation and detailed work. like your patience I would've used the F word in some occasions. 👍👍💯
Thank you! Saved A LOT of money by watching this video!
Thank you Dan!
It saved me replacing the water heater as recommended by the plummer!
Thank you for this video! I have replaced supply lines and the Watts water pump, but I was not sure about the nipple on the tank. Thanks!
Thank you for showing the little bit of issues you ran into when making this repair, especially getting the nipple out of inlet of the tank. That is exactly the issue I am having, which caused me to do a search. Again, showing the struggles lets me know I must be doing it right. Just Subscribed and hit the Like Button. Keep up the great work and look forward to your other videos!
Was cleaning outside my water heater room today and decided to take a peak make sure rodents weren’t getting in anymore lone behold did I fine some dampness and the same issue going on at the top of my water heater, will do this tomorrow hopefully that fitting isn’t ceased on too bad! Great video, demonstration and explination!
Thanks. Great video. Gotta change one of the supply lines too. Your instructions were very thorough, but easy to understand.
Thanks Dan and Sarah both of you for recording and sharing this project! I also having similar leaking from the cold inlet, scared to do by myself but local technicians suggesting to replace the entire thing! I wanted to give a try and looking to find someone who can help me! My one might have dip stick pipe connected, little complicated.
This was EXTREMELY helpful. I need to get on this, this week!
Found this very helpful. Had to buy a 3ft piece of pipe to add to my wrench to have enough leverage to loosen the nipple.
Thank you so much! I was struggling to get the anode rod off on my Bradford White water heater and tapping it with the hammer made all the difference!!! I was able to replace both the anode rod and the hydrojet water inlet pipe.
Glad to have helped! Sometimes they are way too stuck or corroded and the nipple twists off in the tank fitting or worse, the tank breaks. But hammering on the wrench is a good last ditch effort before getting a new heater.
Dan, I like the way you work I mean very careful guy. Thanks.
Thank you for this. Most of the how to videos on water heaters make it seem like the nut on the water connection is super easy to remove.
Glad to hear you found this helpful Our! Our videos tend to be longer for this very reason. The goal is the help others get the job done correctly, by not skipping to the end with all the hard stuff cut out.
Thanks so much! I was able to replace my supply line because of your video.
Some tips from a DIY'er.. Great video BTW. First, if you relieve the pressure in the tank, remove the stainless hose, leave the tank full until the last step. This way the weight of the full tank of water will help ballast the tank and allow you to break the fitting on top free easier. Second, the reason for your rusting is because metals of dissimilar alchemy will have a galvanizing effect on one another. Thus it creates rust where 2 different metals touch. By using the Teflon tape & paste you create a barrier which will prevent rust in the future. Finally, if your house has a backflow prevention system on the cold water supply, you have to empty the tank using the pressure relief valve lever. However before opening that lever, make SURE your cold water supply is turned off, otherwise you'll make a mess! Happy trails!
So wrong, the metal threads cut thru the teflon, it liquifies when tightened.
@@Marvinfj32 Yep. Was gonna say the same.
Hey, thanks for the info regarding a backflow prevention system. I have a leak in my cold-water supply line and a suspected bad pressure relief valve ( I think it works intermittently.) I emptied my gas water heater and had to use the relief valve because I got no more than a very slight trickle from the drain (after attaching a hose.) The way this is set up is pretty bad with bent copper fittings going out a hole in the shed--right onto the driveway. But at least I knew that it was emptying enough to patch the hose until I get the rest of my supplies on hand. I just was wondering why my tank would only empty from the relief valve. It's not like it's near the bottom of the tank.
Great video! Gave me understanding of my tank that appears to have leaks from both intake nipples. I did not realize that those can b removed and replaced. Thanks for the help!
Just don’t break it, then you will need a new tank at that moment
Very helpful video. Funny, I had exactly the same problems when doing the same job, so this saved me a lot of time (went straight for the hammer to wrench to get the nipple out).
Great video Dan & Sarah, I am in the middle & did not know the nipple was "special" so returning the straight thru ones I got & ordering special, glad I watched & did not get the old one off yet, though I could have put a straight through I guess, the 25 yrs ago doubt the had that in water heaters. :) Froggy
This little video saved my day. Thank you so much.
Beat video I have seen showing real life water tank.
Well Dan, my electric hot water tank inlet nipple failed today. Luckily I was doing laundry beside the hot water tank.. Ha, ha….I had to use my largest pipe wrench and sledge hammer to remove the nipple. New nipple and repair was easy peasy thanks to your video. Okay, little elbow grease for repair and water cleanup but a cheap fix. Great video, thank you sir!
Nice video! Lot of good practical direction with reasons.
This is a very good video. Using the hammer to loosen the nipple is what I would do.
What about the dip tube that connect to the cold water inlet nipple? I
don't see a dip tube connect to your new cold water side nipple during
your replacement.
Yep, the W/H will not function properly without a dip tube---while taking a shower he will have to keep adjusting the hot/cold water spigots to maintain a constant water temp.
Don't know if you'll see this comment, but you saved my ass. Thanks.
Thank God you are awesome 🙏 I am a senior citizen and my water tank had corrosion but it was a gas water heater. I watched your video I believe that the flexible line would be much better. Attached to the nipple on top of the water heater. I'm not going to do it myself. I think it's best to hire a plumber 😉.
So glad it was helpful.
Dan, just changed out my lines. Very helpful. Keep up the great tutorials.
If the fittings don't want to thread together, hold pressure on the fitting while turning it OFF (counter-clockwise). You will feel the fitting move downward a small bit as the threads engage. Then resume turning it clockwise to thread it on.
Thanks for posting this video. It gave me the confidence to replace my leaking supply hose. I probably should have replaced the heat trap nipple too but the non threaded part was too far down to reach with the wrench and I wasn't sure if I'd be able to tighten a new one without damaging its threads. Otherwise the repair was relatively quick and easy..
The heat tightens it up too. Just like when you change oil filter, you hand tighten it, same with the bolt under the truck. I liked your video and saved it . I like the hammer to loosen. When the tank was moving I was cringing, lol 😬
Awesome video. I have this exact problem, but my tank is sooo old I think I will just have it replaced. Great video!
Legend has it that he is still trying to get the cold water line hooked up. 😅
LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL!
Just came home from a week long vacation to find this exact problem. Thank you very much for the video. Going to try and replace it tomorrow.
Glad it helped - Good Luck!
Great video...How to wrestler a water heater 🤪 I actually downloaded it because I have the same issue, very helpsul. Thanks Dan 👍
My hot water supply line started dripping, so I watched this video to learn how to replace it. Funny, the nut that attaches the line to the heater also got stuck I ended up going to Harbor Freight and buying a 24 pipe wrench. It took a few tries, but eventually it broke the nut allowing me to unscrew it. The rest was easy.
Not quite 30" clearance in front of the electrical panel :)
My water heater looks just like that. I bought and installed a new one but I'm going to attempt to repair the old one an use it somewhere else. I wasn't 100% sure the nipple was actually replaceable. Thanks. I might try to ratchet strap the old one in place somehow or maybe throw a back up wrench on the release valve to keep it from spinning. I'll pre soak it with something like penetrol overnight.
Great video presentation, gives me confidence to work on my water heater .
Great video thanks. That would have happened to me trying to get that top piece out. I dunno but maybe I might carry a short piece of pipe to go over the pipe wrench handle just for times when more leverage is needed. Great job though. I replaced our water heater once and used flex hoses like that. The copper pipe side I used compression ring fitting. I hope that is okay.
Very awesome. Thanks. Big help. Good film crew. Peace ✌️
Long video, but absolutely worth it!! Great job on your production vales, too. This is exactly the part I need to take care of. Thank you.
That's the beauty of hammer drills and drivers...
Thanks for making this video! I have this exact same issue and need to do this repair. What do you have to do if you have a propane heater? Do I need to shut the gas off?
Started with wrench after just saying to start with fingers only with no comment about it? Loved the video
5:20 Ah, the routine complications that occur when DIY. Glad to see I'm not the only one. There's always something. haha
I yiy yiy. The moment you see a hack using a wrench as a hammer you should know it's not going to get any better. This vid proves it well.
Perfect. thanks for the guide. it will help me. I thought it was a long nipple.
If you read the stickers that come on the flex lines many say to not use teflon tape. I used tape when I was new just because never had a problem and the stopped once I read the label and never had a problem either.
The threads aren't designed to prevent leaks - the rubber washer is the seal when compressed.
Thanks for the repair share Dan, Just curious do you shut off the Hot going from the hwh to the house, or is that left open?
When trying to install hose fitting, I turn the fitting backwards until I hear a click. That means the threads in the two fittings are aligned and ready to engage.
This works great, especially in an areas where it's really hard to get the fittings to aline. Works on regular nuts and bolts too.
First off GREAT video! Thank you! Secondly, I'm laughing my butt off over here at the 3:00 mark when you put that wrench on the feedline... I'm like, "What's he got that wrench on? That's a strange looking fitting..." and then I realized your wrench was actually on the REAR feed, but it's perfectly blocked by the front one! LoL Great optical illusion XD
It's ALWAYS a good FEELING when THINGS go right with YOUR honey FILMING and RUSTED nipple FINALLY breaks loose!
You SAVED the DAY for her! NO new WATER heater NEEDED today! You saved a TON of MONEY!
I know you didn’t include in the video, but at any point do I need to use the pressure release valve? I saw someone mention that in another video. I want to make sure before I get my hands on my water boiler
Thanks for the great tutorial! You mentioned there were 5 failure points and one of mine didn’t pass. I’m dripping from the red gasket between the brass and connector hose- what do I fix?
Good video, couldn't you have drained a gallon or two from the heater to drop the water level?
Thanks you for the video it is very helpful much appreciated...
Thank you for sharing this video.
FYI: If the tank fitting is steel, it will cause a galvanic reaction with the brass/bronze hose end. Happens with dissimilar metals of most types when in contact with each other. Thread tape and/or dope won't act as a barrier against this.
If possible, add a short brass/bronze nipple between the tank and the braided hose. Nipple is much cheaper and will be the sacrificial piece, rather than the pricier hose. Swap out the nipple with a new one when corrosion starts. 👍
Where is the diptube located on your tank? My understanding is they're attached to those heat traps. At least if the cold water inlet is on top.
How did you know it was definitely leaking from the pipe nipple and not the tank itself? I’m seeing water on top of the tank, and can’t tell if water coming from a joint leak or the tank itself. (Your video was well done - helped me understand more about the pipe connections.)
Great video I just did replace my electric water heater tank but one issue I have no water is going constant on my hot water tap?? Is it airlock or what should I do??
Thanks, I would be afraid of turning it that hard - thinking the tank would crack.
Yes I agree. I watched him struggle getting that free and I had the same issue. I just gave up. Maybe now I will try again because my fitting at the heater is rusting pretty bad
Great Video!!! Did you thread the tape in the opposite direction? I thought it was necessary, just asking
gonna do mine soon thanks what is that made outta gavenized?
Why didn't you check the dip tube while you were there ? And what a dangerous location for a circuit box, if that's what it is. Right next to a water tank.
Good video, ty.
Did not understand why the red and blue "tabs" or markers were all over the place, thought they would consistently mark hot n cold. Would like some feedback.thx.
Hey! I liked your video , I don't care for those braided supply lines , they pinch , the copper ones pinch to, 'cant have pinching' Also they don't thread on very much so they tend to leak. I recommend stainless ,they don't pinch. Keep flushing that water heater and change the ANODE rod its huge.
10 stars from me and them great job well done
My cold water inlet was leaking so much water that it got into my house thank you so much for this video I'm going to try to repair it myself and save myself $2,000 for a new one
Can you release the pressure by relief valve only or you have to drain the water out of the tank?
Great video. I learned a lot.
What about the dissimilar metals (non-ferrous touching ferrous) that have the potential to cause galvanic corrosion?
what happens if you don't have those two supply lines on the top and only the one in the middle with corrosion? Is it a bigger problem or is it the same procedure. I don't plan on doing it myself but I want to make sure the tank won't explode.
THank you, appreciate your help
Thanks for the great video! Are all the WH has same standard 3/4" sizes flex?
Unless you get into commercial heaters or some odd-ball RV heater, then yes, they all should have 3/4" inlet/outlets.
Great video. I have a bad leak out top of my heater. It leaks so bad it comes over the thermostats. I am wondering of replacing the nipple is just wishful thinking. Pretty sure that your water heater, right in front of an electrical panel, might be against code. Would be here. Usually a clear space required in front of a panel.
Wasnt leaking because of that blue monster tape. That stuff seals everything. I use it like Frank's Red Hot, I put that stuff on everything.
You are so wrong you don't need tape on compression fittings it stops the fitting tightening all the way. You can always tell a amateur job by all the tape on wrong threads.
NPT threads are designed to be used with a sealing compound such as Teflon tape to create a leak-free seal, whereas NPTF threads form a mechanical seal by crushing the entire thread form. If NPT is used without a sealing compound then there can be leakages or other unpleasant issues.Mar 29, 2019 quoted from direct material.com. I can always tell a amateur comment when the wrong terminology is used to describe the fitting type. Ive sealed more fittings than I care to talk about. Commercial, Residential and automotive.
would you recommend draining the tank to avoid pressure spray when you take off the fitting? or hitting the relief valve?
Opening the hot water tap(s) in sinks above and below the level of the heater will get rid of the pressure once the cold water intake valve(s) are closed.
what do you do if it leaks at the red washer that is on the flex? replace the flex?
Might want to consider replacing the water heater anode, as well as maybe adding a control timer (to lessen electricity cost). As is, the heater is going to keep the water temperature the same for 24 hours/day. The incoming water pressure supplied by the city should be checked, using a (~$10) pressure gauge attached to an outside garden hose bibb. If that pressure is above 80 PSI, then a "pressure reducing valve" may also be required, in order to prevent leakage from the water heater's T&P relief valve. The pair of "heat trap nipples" should both be installed, not just on the cold side.
shouldnt there be a dip tube attached to this fitting ?
Is this a comin problem? I have both of mine look like Thay are leaking and the pressure releaf as well . All seem to b sleeping at thee threads and it appears like it had Ben looking for a really long time .thanks for the vid