To be fair, I was waiting for one of their super mega uber holiday sales that coincided with a solar flare and allowed me to use 4 expired coupons simultaneously under a tent. I Needless to say, I waited awhile, and should have just bought it for $39 a year sooner. I do love the fit and finish of it though, and hope you are finding it to be just as worthwhile. 73 - AC3DS
I've used it now many times and it has worked amazingly well. Aside from it being a snug fit, it has been a joy to use for transport. Good luck if you make it, and be sure to let it sit for a while to air out and stabilize.
This case has been a radio saver for me. Even if you can't get this specific case in the UK, I hope you are able to find something comparable. Well worth the investment if your 7300 will travel. Cheers.
How has the foam held up over this past year? I have a bunch of Pelican Cases set up for various firearms. Some of the foam starts coming apart when I have plucked to close to an adjacent compartment that has been plucked. But then again mine see a lot of in and out use. I *try* and keep more foam between compartments but that always doesn't happen. I want to build something like yours except with the (edit)> *1510* Pelican so I can fit more crap inside and have wheels. Then again I may take a 40mm ammo can and build something in there. Everytime I think I've made up my mind I see another video like yours. Nice work BTW.
Understandable. I was a bit concerned at first, however I decided to give it a try. I'm no chemist, so I could be way off base about this, however here is the logic and resources I used: Plastidip: 1) After applying the plastidip, I let it sit outside to cure for 48 hours before moving on to the contact cement step. I recognize that plastidip contains Toluene which is a VOC, however I think (could be wrong), that the chemical reaction between toluene and air should be mostly complete through the curing process. The MSDS does say that it is inert after curing. 2) Plastidip is recommended for aquariums; The critters living in aquariums, the nitrogen cycle of the environment, and other aspects of that environment can be quite sensitive to added chemicals / chemical processes and if, after curing, it is inert enough for the biologics, I felt pretty safe with a TFT screen. 3) According to the MSDS, Carbon Monoxide, Carbon Dioxide, and Nitrogen oxides are possible off gasses if heated to the point of burning. If we are getting up to those temperatures (212 degrees Fahrenheit), chances are that my car/house is already on fire. Even if they were released at low temperatures, I don't know what would be on the screen with which those gasses could react (ignorance, not supposition). www.tapplastics.com/image/pdf/MSDS%20Plasti%20Dip.pdf Contact Cement: 1) After applying the contact cement, I let it cure outside/garage for 4 days. I didn't use it until after there was no discernable smell beyond the fragrance of the room it was in (Ode d' Garage). 2) Has Toluene as an ingredient. According to the MSDS, decomposition can release both COx and NOx. I'm thinking it may be similar to the Plastidip in terms of inert after cure. www.buildsite.com/pdf/dap/DAP-WELDWOOD-Nonflammable-Contact-Cement-SDS-1875532.pdf My intent is that the radio is only going to be in the case for travel, so maybe 2 - 24 hours, with the average being 2-3 hours. I don't know how long it would take to negatively impact the screen, but if it does start to show signs of wear, I will report back out here. If you know of any online resources that would suggest that either of these two substances would yield a fogging of the screen, please share and I'll gladly read and share out. Thanks for raising this good topic.
I made a case following your instructions - turned out great! Thank you! I enjoy your videos.
very well done. I just bought my first HF rig, the 7300 and am considering using it for portable too. the case is a nice addition.
Great job, I will put the screen of the radio to the other side of the box, not to the wall of the box, just to have more protection, But is great,
Nice! I have a larger one for my ic7300 and next to it my comet caa-500 analyzer. I keep my cords in a soft laptop case.
Why did you paint the foam. GREAT JOB!!!!
Picked one up last wk. Perfect fit. You did very well at $15. I pd $39.
To be fair, I was waiting for one of their super mega uber holiday sales that coincided with a solar flare and allowed me to use 4 expired coupons simultaneously under a tent. I Needless to say, I waited awhile, and should have just bought it for $39 a year sooner. I do love the fit and finish of it though, and hope you are finding it to be just as worthwhile. 73 - AC3DS
This was awesome and got you a subscriber!
Nice work! Saving this for reference.
Very nice the way you did this. Great idea for mine.
I've used it now many times and it has worked amazingly well. Aside from it being a snug fit, it has been a joy to use for transport. Good luck if you make it, and be sure to let it sit for a while to air out and stabilize.
Nice job!
Great video thank you. Is there a link for the travel case you used?
Very cool ! I really enjoyed watching you make this. I'm not sure we can get those cases over here in the UK, but will have a look around !
This case has been a radio saver for me. Even if you can't get this specific case in the UK, I hope you are able to find something comparable. Well worth the investment if your 7300 will travel. Cheers.
Great work
How has the foam held up over this past year? I have a bunch of Pelican Cases set up for various firearms. Some of the foam starts coming apart when I have plucked to close to an adjacent compartment that has been plucked. But then again mine see a lot of in and out use.
I *try* and keep more foam between compartments but that always doesn't happen. I want to build something like yours except with the (edit)> *1510* Pelican so I can fit more crap inside and have wheels. Then again I may take a 40mm ammo can and build something in there. Everytime I think I've made up my mind I see another video like yours.
Nice work BTW.
How has that Apache 3800 size worked out for the 7300?
Nice job 👍 73
Thank you! So far it is working out nicely. 73s
thanks
Welcome!
What does the PlastiDip Spray achieve?
It adds rigidity to the foam. This helps to keep it all more stable when putting in and taking out. Works for me, but to each their own.
@@transmittinguntilrobotsrep1045 thanks so much!!!
I’d be worried all that chemical treatment may off gas and fog up the screen.
Understandable. I was a bit concerned at first, however I decided to give it a try. I'm no chemist, so I could be way off base about this, however here is the logic and resources I used:
Plastidip:
1) After applying the plastidip, I let it sit outside to cure for 48 hours before moving on to the contact cement step. I recognize that plastidip contains Toluene which is a VOC, however I think (could be wrong), that the chemical reaction between toluene and air should be mostly complete through the curing process. The MSDS does say that it is inert after curing.
2) Plastidip is recommended for aquariums; The critters living in aquariums, the nitrogen cycle of the environment, and other aspects of that environment can be quite sensitive to added chemicals / chemical processes and if, after curing, it is inert enough for the biologics, I felt pretty safe with a TFT screen.
3) According to the MSDS, Carbon Monoxide, Carbon Dioxide, and Nitrogen oxides are possible off gasses if heated to the point of burning. If we are getting up to those temperatures (212 degrees Fahrenheit), chances are that my car/house is already on fire. Even if they were released at low temperatures, I don't know what would be on the screen with which those gasses could react (ignorance, not supposition).
www.tapplastics.com/image/pdf/MSDS%20Plasti%20Dip.pdf
Contact Cement:
1) After applying the contact cement, I let it cure outside/garage for 4 days. I didn't use it until after there was no discernable smell beyond the fragrance of the room it was in (Ode d' Garage).
2) Has Toluene as an ingredient. According to the MSDS, decomposition can release both COx and NOx. I'm thinking it may be similar to the Plastidip in terms of inert after cure.
www.buildsite.com/pdf/dap/DAP-WELDWOOD-Nonflammable-Contact-Cement-SDS-1875532.pdf
My intent is that the radio is only going to be in the case for travel, so maybe 2 - 24 hours, with the average being 2-3 hours. I don't know how long it would take to negatively impact the screen, but if it does start to show signs of wear, I will report back out here.
If you know of any online resources that would suggest that either of these two substances would yield a fogging of the screen, please share and I'll gladly read and share out. Thanks for raising this good topic.
@@transmittinguntilrobotsrep1045 Any updates?
I got one last week. $60.00