No sorry we weren't able to film that as it takes two people with a Sportster..the pedal is on the right, and the bleed nipple on the caliper is on the left...so nobody to hold the camera...but its the exact same principle, just apply it to a level hose... thanks for watching, Del.
I use to service my 2 stroke trail and enduro motos, of the drum brake era, then along comes the Sportster Iron and my original thinking was this is too valuable and complex to work on! Since finding your RUclipss you've given me the inspiration and confidence to do the services myself. Thankyou so much for your clear directions and explanations of mechanical wizardry. Also a big thankyou to Penny too with her superb video footage. There's a real sense of achievement when you do something new yourself! Cheers.
+Al Hayward Hi Al, thank you so much for your kind comments, its great to hear from anyone who get stuck in and has a go themselves, the Iron is a great bike to do your own work on, simple and relaible... enjoy your bike sir, and thanks for wathcing... Del.
Hi Phil... yeah, just bleed them all, if you want to be really OCD, then pump the closest through first, then the farthest..and then finally do the closest again just once more in case any has bled back across....thanks for watching buddy, cheers, Del.
Nice explanation on the whole job. That tip about the rubber band is a really good one. If you have more than one bike or a car take a look at buying a mightyvac bleeding kit. It allows you to draw the fluid out through the bleeder and then you only have to pump the lever and bleed normally a couple of times. You can use it for other things too and its only about $30 US. Comes with a plastic bottle too to collect the used fluid.
You couldn't have timed this video better Del, My bikes off for it's MOT next week and it's a timely reminder to get it done before he goes, I always do it myself and as daft as it seems in 30 years, I've never thought about pulling back the brake lever over night, you Genius Sir, once again Del many thanks.
Hi mate, great to hear from you ... we are only keeping Penny's new bike in the laundry room to prevent it becoming a full on garage project as you know what it's like, once it gets in a proper garage and up on the lift it starts becoming 'ohhh why don't we just do this', etc., and before you know it you've got another bike you can't ride cos it's a 'show bike' .. this way you are continually tripping over it, which forces you to get it done & get out & ride it! LOL! Cheers Del
iv been riding around on my bike for a year not knowing how long the brake fluids been in there, thanks to your video i got round to changing it, turns out there was quite a bit of air stuck in the system and my brakes are now rock solid, cheers delboy
Thanks for such a quick reply, Del! Your explanation is clear and it should work out. Today I cleaned the brake calipers (following your video instructions, of course) and analysed the CBS a little more. When I change the fluid, I let you know. Maybe it would be worthwhile making my first RUclips video when doing so. Enjoy your weekend!
That's my Delby. No place is too weird nor too awkward to work on your bike! I too have done many a maintenance in my house: kitchen, hall way even bedroom in a 9th floor apartment when I used to live in Madrid. Popped the bike in the elevator and up she went!!! Hope you get things going soon back in the garage and that all is OK over there. Thx for sharing and Rock&Roll man!
Hi mate, yeah there are several ways to bleed brakes, reverse bleed being one of them, also good old fashioned manual priming and pressure bleeding, but I want to keep the videos straight forward and simple so as not to give new comers too much confusion to think about...thanks for your input and appreciate your really generous comments, thank you kindly, Sir, take care, Del
This is great like ten steps on from a haynes manual where it sometimes leaves you wondering a bit could I should I. Delboy actually encourages you to think yes I can do this,to anyone reading this I'm an upholsterer by trade and just a practical person.
Cheers Brian, glad the videos can help you mate, we never tackle anything you can't do yourself at home, it gives you a sense of pride working with your bike and saves you a few pennies at the same time... thanks for your support mate, it's much appreciated, Del
I'll guarantee you a perfectly solid lever if you just do the simple upside down method,,, take the caliper off (keep it all plumbed up), hook the caliper up above the bars on the roof with a bungy or something, stick a piece of number plate or something that thick between the pads to act as the disc, wait about an hour for all the air to move up to the caliper & then pump it out the top, works every time & guarantees a rock solid lever, hope that helps, Del
Pretty mush right there Alex....to lift out the old fluid, get a plastic bag ready right beside the reservoir, then make a big wad of kitchen roll paper and dunk it slowly in the fluid so it soaks it all up, then lift and drop the paper in the bag, repeat it with more paper till the rez is empty, seal it up and chuck it in the bin.....once the rez is empty, don't worry, air rises to it wont get down into the hose...just top up with fresh fluid and pump it through....job done. good luck, Del,
Awesome video. Love how you explain how things work as well as extra precautions you should take. I wish there were more tutorial videos like yours out there
Hi Alex,opinions vary on this,some say,like Bill,that you go to the farthest first then do the closer one,and others say vice versa,but the correct answer is that it doesn't matter,if you take the tape measure & measure the hoses they are the same length,the trick is to bleed one,then the other & then do a quick final pump on the first one again to ensure that no oil fluid bleed across with suction - don't be too OCD about it,mate,as long as the fluid is changed every 2yrs it will be fine, Del
Del, been watching your vids for ages. Just wanted to thank you & Penny for all your teachings. Just wanted to let you know just uprated headlight bulbs and changed brake fluid. I would never have attempted this without your videos and did it confidently. I cheated a bit by using a bleed kit but im sure its the giving it a go that counts, oh and that I dont have 14 year old fluid in my brake system. Keep up the vids you take the fear factor and mysticism out of it.
Hi David, "its the giving it a go that counts"....you couldn't have said it better my friend... it is indeed the 'getting stuck in and doing it that counts, if a bleed kit works for you, then good, it HAS to be better than paying a spotty yoof with a certificate £40 to do it for you at the dealer..!!? Thank you for your compliments, kits great to hear such kind and generous support, the channel is nothing without its viewers, so keep watching, and if you ever need a specific tip or guidance then just drop us a PM any time... take care mate, all the best.. Del.
Hi mate, the old bungie-in trick works all the time, do it periodically to sharpen up the feel of the lever... with all the heat and pressure back and fourth on the fluid it develops microscopic bubbles al lthe time, open the valve up top over night and hey presto, they all drift up and out....good luck with the MOT mate.. Del.
Hi Rich, yes indeed, mate, exactly the same.. the ABS is an electric sensor and nothing to do with the hydraulics as such, so changing the fluid is the same either way... with the back brake, it's the same procedure, just press the pedal as you open and close the nipple (the same as pulling the front lever) ... hope that's helps you, good luck, Del
Great vids mate. Just ordered the fluid and tubing for my first ever brake fluid change. Love the no nonsense and common sense approach to your vids, very informative. Keep it up.
Thats it mate, exactly that. you'll need long arms or another person as the lever is on the right and the brake caliper on the left....but its the same mechanical principle as the front... hope that helps.. good luck ,Del.
Bleeding brakes can be tricky... it just needs patience & persistance & you'll get there... you can make headway by bleeding upside down. Take the caliper off the wheel and hang it up higher than the master cylinder as air rises naturally, then bleed by pumping 3-4 times, hold the lever in, then open & close the nipple whilst holding the lever, gradually you will pump fluid 'up' and chase the air out (stick something between the pads to represent the discs) this is easier with a friend to help
Hi mate, best way to answer that question yourself is pop the resevoir cap off and take a look inside ... it can look darker through the window than it actually is due the lack of light - if it's the colour of a pint of Fosters then you are good to go! If it's more like stewed tea, then I would change it ... it may only be a year old, but there would have been a period between the bike being built and it being registered and this can be up to a year - if in doubt, change it anyway, mate, Del
Maximum pinchage! Brilliant expression, lol. Thanks for another great video Del. Just bought a Bandit (the story is on the forum) and needs plenty of TLC. Brake fluid change is now on the list.
hi Delboy update from our last conversation and watching this video which gave, me the confidence to replace my front brake master cylinder assembly. bleed the system in on my XL1200R today 30/8/14 it didnt take an hour to do, i brought genuine Harley master cylinder kit £35+ from jersey harley . an after market kit on ebay if your on a tight budget for under £20. but hey thanks again delboy for lots of tips since watching ive also changed my shocks . regards Brian
Well done Brian, glad to hear it mate, there's nothing better than doing it yourself for enhancing the joy of ownership (and saving a few beans lol!), well done buddy, glad we could help, Del
Hi Mike. It is a ratchet driver, its 8" (measured minus the handle), number is "SSDMR8" could be an old number as its over 20 years old..but that will get you the right tool.. cheers buddy. del.
Hi Rik, often this is more a case of warranty comeback than anything else - if your dealer is ok for you to wait the mileage then you can do so, but then engine isn't doing any work, it isn't deteriorating, however, it doesn't hurt to change the brake fluid every 2 years as that deteriorates with time irrespective of mileage ...all the rest should be ok to wait till 5k - hope that helps you mate, Cheers Del
+Gordon Sold, we have a firm plan to get over and visit lots of friends in the US when life slows down enough to let us....and at least half a dozen of the buddies we know are between NC, PA, and MI. so its on the list buddy... ill take you up on that for sure..!!
Man your good I just changed the brake line for taller bars and my reservoir cap has been leaking and I cranked the screws down just like you said! I'm going to be taking the cap apart like you showed I also watched your video on changing the line much appreciated! Ride on!
Based on what you've told me, it sounds like your rear brake caliper may be siezed ... all it takes is a little rubbing that builds up heat which leads to expansion and as everything expands it gets worse and eventually locks up... without looking at the bike (as you haven't even said what it is) I can only suggest to take the caliper off the rear disc to strip and inspect it, make sure you don't have a brake hose kinked or trapped & let me know how you get on ... Del
Hi mate, yeah there will be some, the pads only run about 1mm off the face of the disc, and the are only held off by inertia....so there will be a bit of fall back so they slightly rest against the disc lightly.....so when you spin the rim you'll often get a rhythmic rubbing, but not enough to slow the wheel as its just touching under its own weight... ok,?, hope that helps. Del.
Hi Alex, if you look down on the fluid with the lid off, as long as it's clean, that's fine ...if your reservoir doesn't have the metal plate inside the glass (which some don't) then you are looking in to the void of fluid through a tiny hole and as no light gets in there, it will appear dark!
Great video Del, I was planning on changing my brake fluid tomorrow to hopefully sort my spongey brakes. This has cleared up some of the finer details! Cheers, ride safe
Mate, another job well done.. Thanks for sharing your knowledge once again, when mine needs doing this will take the black magic component out of the task!
Hi again....i would say that will the good mileage you do, it would be well worth taking the step of changing your fluid early, after all, its only 6 months away, and you ride your bike more than most people do....also its very cheap and cane also serve to remove any water content that has built up and any air in the system.. you will certainly feel they are better afterwards... good luck and ride safe buddy.. Del.
You do a great job showing and explaining and your videographer does a great job too! I just noticed some fluid leaking from my front wheel on 2001 883. I surmise is brake fluid... but why would it leak. I'll admit, in new to riding, don't do long distance but seldom, but have never maintenanced the brakes since I bought it in late 2018. Thank you for your expertise.
The vent is in the filler neck via the overflow, air escapes from heat expansion through the same route as overflowing fuel, it's nothing to do with the cap and if you buy the cap correct for you bike it'll be the right one!
You are the best man! Anytime I am ready to try a new job your videos help me out! I am about to change the front brake line on the 2011 48 I just picked up!
Thanks buddy, im glad the videos can help you out, and just feel free to drop me a line any time you're stuck... always online sometime during each day... take care and keep yer boots on the breeze... Del.
Yeah, i thought the clamp was a cheap item...but the billet top clamp replacement certainly isnt..! Penny may even go back to the OE bracket yet, see how she feels after a few miles..
Great stuff as always Del! I think I'm going to have to do mine as well. .... That speedo clamp is called an Auto Meter 3209 Tachometer Shock Strap. You can buy them on Amazon for around $15.00. It's a nice modification that anyone can do and it's cheap too! I was going to use that on mine but decided to scrap the speedo altogether.
Hi mate. Yes we got the sticker, thanks for that, i love the design too. The preload can be a bit baffling, so yeah, ill poke a note on the 'videos to make' list and get to that soon... thanks for watching... Del.
I'm sure Del will correct if I'm wrong but yes you should do both calipers to get all the old fluid out of the whole system. You should do the side furthest away from the master cylinder first, then the other one.
Hey Del and pen. Whats crackin in England, besides another awesome vid?I love the inventory of JACKETS behind you mate!!! Damn one for every day of the bloody week, eh??!!!!! well Alrighty, now!!!
My 2004 XL 1200C uses DOT 5 brake fluid. So, it is dark when new. I believe it turns yellow once it ages. Kind of...the opposite of yours, it would seem. The only other difference seems to be that my bleed nipple is an 8mm. Other than that...the video was very helpful. Thanks again from Texas.
I think by the sound of it you mean 'spongy' and not as firm ...which sounds like you've trapped some air in the system .. if you let the resevorr quantity drain right out while you are pumping through, you'll feed air into the hose .. bleed it through again until all bubbles are gone, but as you do it keep the resevoir topped up, it should be at least as hard as it was before, if not better...let me know how it goes, good luck, Del
The brake fluid is fine as long as it's not leaking... the lever is probably hard to pull because the corner edges of the brake pump where you hit them have closed and jammed the lever, maybe you need to bend them open slightly, or replace the lever if it is bent ... sorry can't be more help without seeing it... Del
No, it uses fluid pressure just the same....it has a master cylinder under the front of the swing arm that is operated by a rod from the pedal...have a look, you'll see it.
great job mate, instead of using the paper towel to soak up the fluid in the reservoir , i have a large syringe with a bit of tube on , to suck all the crap out.
Hi mate....after so long sitting about.. i would say why not strip the whole system and make it a bit if a refurb project...after all, it is brakes and then you'll know its right.. good licujk with it, cheers, Del.
Damn...you make everything look easy, my brother....amazing!I just bought a 200cc syringe...cant wait to attach my 2005 fatboy. dot 5. My lever is braking at 1/2 grip, way to much. just got so use to the sponginess, crazy right!
Excellent...Excellent...Excellent point on the air vent on the lid of the brake cap! I can't tell you how many times that is overlooked! Have you ever tried reverse bleeding? I have found that to be a lot easier to do by myself and just as quick
That's a bit gash! It looks black before, and it looks black after. But it's new fluid that went in that certainly looked a lot clearer than the "tea" that came out. No bubbles as I was pushing it through and out the nipple. The reservoir did appear to be almost full to the brim when i took the cap off. I think you had the same with the 883, do they just like to overfill them at the factory? Anyway, all topped off and feeling firm. Haven't test ridden it yet, but worked in the driveway. thanks d
With the oil on the chamfer...i DONT do that, as a little white powder build up stops them unwinding and they dont need any torque..! a little on the thread mind, thats just common sense.
Hi Del, im retired and bought myself a harley sportster 1200cc 2007 model bike been stood since 2011, rode it about 140 miles great bike, put it in my garage and noticed petrol leak on the check valve, just ordered a new check valve from harley £69.70 could you tell me how to change this check valve watched all your vidios with you and penny but cant find one on changing a petrol check valve. keep on the good work love watching you dave.
Now for the little sportster our mighty Del will mount the 120cubic inches screaming eagle engine, stage 1 2 and 3... first sportster capable to beat up the hayabusa! :D
Great video. Very helpful thank you. I assume the rear brake (non abs) is the same method / concept? Scratch that question. Just seen your other comment already answering it. Thanks again for taking the time to make all the videos. Found them very helpful over the years.
Del I did everything to the point with your video. Now the break feels smoother not as hard to press like before. Its that normal after a few miles will it get stiffer. Thanks
Thanks Del & Pen, another great clear video, Q is this the same for an ABS system on bandit 650? What about the back brake pedal etc? Apologies for newbee silly Q. cheers Rich.
Hi Del, just wanted to extend a thanks to you after a final look at this video on the flat screen on sunday morning, I then proceeded to carry out my brake fluid change. It wasn't difficult, but the "squeeze/open/shut/release" technique is exactly that, just technique and practice, but after watching your video, the job went by without a hitch. Just curiously, before the change, the window on the reservoir was black and after the change, it's exactly the same colour! ? Why would that be?
Hi Del, I checked the window on my fluid reservoir yesterday and it looks pretty brown/black. However, the bike was registered new in March 2012, I purchased it in July 2012, so it's only just over a year old. Now i know you said that mileage is irrelevant, but FYI there's only 3500 miles on the clock and as I said it's only just over a year old. I believe you said every 2 years you should change it, but given the colour, should I change it now!?
Hi Delboy, thank you very much for this another great and helpful video. I have a small question please. If I just change the brake fluid in the front and rear reservoirs without bleeding the old fluids in the hoses, will the old and fresh fluid mix? Will this be OK for a quick brake fluid change?
Hi buddy, no mate, it won't... the hydraulic fluid doesn't flow back and forth, it sits in the system pretty much stationery, and there is little benefit to be had from just changing what's in the resevoir... it becomes water logged over time as it's hydro scopic, and this can rust the internal parts, so make sure you change all of the fluid at least every 3 years at most... it will mix, but the old fluid will just contaminate the new stuff making it pointless!
Del it worked, thanks. Now i have a dumb question i am changing my harley gas cap to a pop up gas cap. Do you know if 2010 nightser sportster is vented or non vented gas cap. thanks you
You answered a Question right at the end of the video, i was going to say/ask would you then bleed all calipers once you've removed to old fluid and got it running clean at the front? I've got a Sporty but the Roadster so two front calipers. Great vids keep them coming. Cheers Phil
Hi Dell, Excellent tutorial as always :) First time caller but long time listener, since Discovery episodes, but now I actually own my own bike (long story) :) Brakes question for expert: I've changed one of brake hoses on front brakes, yamaha fzs600 fazer 1998, and after bleeding brakes i've noticed a little oil around bleeding nipple screw. Just a few drops around screw thread. I've ziptied brakes overnight, and they seems to be sturdy (but sometimes I doubt in myself as this is my first bike). I've not ridden motorcycle for safety, but I see people saying that when you put screw cap it can actually push some left over oil out of screw trough threads. There is no leakage trough the screw, just around the threads, on both brake calipers. Some people say I can put teflon tape, but since it is not there from the factory, I do not want to "re-engineer" the brakes. I will leave it zip-tied for few days and check if there is any more leaking around the screw, since my wife and I commute on motorcycle every day, I want to be sure that all is fine, if there is leakage I do not want to ride it. Is this "normal" to happen, maybe you mentioned in some of the episodes but I missed it (do you have a link?) Cheers and all the best!
Hi mate, thanks for your question and I fully understand what you are asking... You will always have a residue of brake fluid around the nipple screw after bleeding it, and when you tighten the screw down, it should completely seal against the taper at the bottom and NOTHING should come up the sides at all, once all brake fluid is removed it should remain bone dry and NEVER put teflon tape round it, as this is a dangerous bodge... as you say, it's not designed to be there by the factory... Firstly, wash the brake caliper off completely (no need to keep them taped in under pressure) and once you've washed the caliper with soapy water, dry it with a hairdryer or airline to get it completely bone dry, then take the bike for a short test ride... you should see no brake fluid or dampness at all around the bleed screw... if you do, then simply buy some new bleed screws from the dealer, as they can become corroded and worn... this should cure it, if not, then you may have to replace the caliper, but try not to worry, as the fluid you are seeing is probably coming out of the hole in the centre of the bleed screw and weeping down the sides through capilary action... so wash it all off thoroughly and it should be fine... Hope that helps, let me know, Del
Moonfleet41 Thank you for reply, I really appreciate it. I bought new genuine nipple (the old one had little rust around bottom/beginning of the thread), changed it, cleaned the new nipple, blown it with compressed air, ziptied brakes over night, and in morning i've found one drop around the nipple screw. I've cleaned it again, blown nipple with compressed air both inside and out, it was bone dry, and after ~3h ziptied brakes i can see half a drop around the screw thread. On the other side/caliper it is bone dry for two days. Is the existing caliper fixable somehow? Of the new caliper is the way to go from here? Brand new caliper is around 550e/pounds, would you recommend a used one from ebay for 40-50 euros/pounds? I am a bit afraid that the ebay one could have similar problems or something, but the new one is almost unreachable this season :( Thank you very much for your time!
dakipro There are many good quality parts on the second hand market, if you buy a used one, it is so much cheaper that it has to be worth a try....the worst you'll have to do is fit new seals and paint it....but if you have fixed the other one, why not try another new bleed screw, and perhaps screw it in a little tighter, obviously not too tight so you damage it...but it could only need a little more then you are giving it...ive never had a problem with them leaking... so before you spend any more money, try looking up the torque setting and actually torque it in place.. its just possible you arent doing it up tight enough....you have nothing to lose aye..?
Moonfleet41 Where is the "buy Delboy a bear" button? I cannot google the forum you started (forgot the link, sorry) and I do not know how to donate a bear to you my friend, because your advice works! I did tighten the nipple just a bit more and left brakes ziptied overnight (maybe i shouldn't do this at all?) and there was no oil on it, as it is supposed to be. And you saved me a lot of time, nerves and money, and since I do not leave close enough to come personally I would like to, at least, buy you a bear as a gratitude for the advice and your time. Can you send me the link or some other method (paypal?) where I can donate a bear to the Delboy's garage. Please, I insist and it would make me feel great if I could somehow repay you. Btw, if you are traveling to Norway, you are our guests :) Cheers!
dakipro Hi there buddy, thank you so much for the kind sentiment, its really nice to recieve such good feedback.. i knew there wouldn't be much wrong with those brakes, often its just the fear of overtightening that makes us take too much care... glad you got it fixed... If you wanted to support the channel, we have some Hoodies tops with the 'Delboy's Garage' logo on them about to be ordered tomorrow....so if you would like one, they do make us a very small markup and many people have used this to feed us back some support for all they have learned...so here is a link to the video, Delboy's Garage, 'HOODIES';- Orders Please? The paypal address is at about 7.18 but if you watch it through you'll get all the details on how to order, or just send something token for a beer (as you say) if you would prefer.....get your order in quick if you would like one as the stuff will be ordered in the morning.... thanks again mate and ride safe.. Del & Penny.
Hi Del, reading through, looking for advice on dual caliper front brakes, is Bill De La Vega correct in saying I should bleed through the left caliper (furthest from cylinder) first, then bleed the right caliper (closest to cylinder)?? Your advice greatly appreciated as I'm getting "tooled up" for this weekend to change my fluid!?
Hello Delboy, I have a question unrelated to this topic. Have a 95 Sportster 1200 with the dual gauges on the bike, both have stopped working properly and I'm on a budget, do you know of any dual gauge combo or some other one that I can buy to put on my bike? The Harley gauges want $500.00 dollars and that's way to much money for me to spend. Thank you very much. Love watching your very informative videos and they help allot. Demetrios
No sorry we weren't able to film that as it takes two people with a Sportster..the pedal is on the right, and the bleed nipple on the caliper is on the left...so nobody to hold the camera...but its the exact same principle, just apply it to a level hose... thanks for watching, Del.
I use to service my 2 stroke trail and enduro motos, of the drum brake era, then along comes the Sportster Iron and my original thinking was this is too valuable and complex to work on! Since finding your RUclipss you've given me the inspiration and confidence to do the services myself. Thankyou so much for your clear directions and explanations of mechanical wizardry. Also a big thankyou to Penny too with her superb video footage. There's a real sense of achievement when you do something new yourself! Cheers.
+Al Hayward Hi Al, thank you so much for your kind comments, its great to hear from anyone who get stuck in and has a go themselves, the Iron is a great bike to do your own work on, simple and relaible... enjoy your bike sir, and thanks for wathcing... Del.
Hi Phil... yeah, just bleed them all, if you want to be really OCD, then pump the closest through first, then the farthest..and then finally do the closest again just once more in case any has bled back across....thanks for watching buddy, cheers, Del.
Nice explanation on the whole job. That tip about the rubber band is a really good one.
If you have more than one bike or a car take a look at buying a mightyvac bleeding kit. It allows you to draw the fluid out through the bleeder and then you only have to pump the lever and bleed normally a couple of times. You can use it for other things too and its only about $30 US. Comes with a plastic bottle too to collect the used fluid.
You couldn't have timed this video better Del,
My bikes off for it's MOT next week and it's a timely reminder to get it done before he goes, I always do it myself and as daft as it seems in 30 years, I've never thought about pulling back the brake lever over night, you Genius Sir, once again Del many thanks.
Hi mate, great to hear from you ... we are only keeping Penny's new bike in the laundry room to prevent it becoming a full on garage project as you know what it's like, once it gets in a proper garage and up on the lift it starts becoming 'ohhh why don't we just do this', etc., and before you know it you've got another bike you can't ride cos it's a 'show bike' .. this way you are continually tripping over it, which forces you to get it done & get out & ride it! LOL! Cheers Del
iv been riding around on my bike for a year not knowing how long the brake fluids been in there, thanks to your video i got round to changing it, turns out there was quite a bit of air stuck in the system and my brakes are now rock solid, cheers delboy
Thanks for such a quick reply, Del! Your explanation is clear and it should work out. Today I cleaned the brake calipers (following your video instructions, of course) and analysed the CBS a little more. When I change the fluid, I let you know. Maybe it would be worthwhile making my first RUclips video when doing so. Enjoy your weekend!
That's my Delby. No place is too weird nor too awkward to work on your bike! I too have done many a maintenance in my house: kitchen, hall way even bedroom in a 9th floor apartment when I used to live in Madrid. Popped the bike in the elevator and up she went!!! Hope you get things going soon back in the garage and that all is OK over there. Thx for sharing and Rock&Roll man!
Hi mate, yeah there are several ways to bleed brakes, reverse bleed being one of them, also good old fashioned manual priming and pressure bleeding, but I want to keep the videos straight forward and simple so as not to give new comers too much confusion to think about...thanks for your input and appreciate your really generous comments, thank you kindly, Sir, take care, Del
This is great like ten steps on from a haynes manual where it sometimes leaves you wondering a bit could I should I.
Delboy actually encourages you to think yes I can do this,to anyone reading this I'm an upholsterer by trade and just a practical person.
Cheers Brian, glad the videos can help you mate, we never tackle anything you can't do yourself at home, it gives you a sense of pride working with your bike and saves you a few pennies at the same time... thanks for your support mate, it's much appreciated, Del
I'll guarantee you a perfectly solid lever if you just do the simple upside down method,,, take the caliper off (keep it all plumbed up), hook the caliper up above the bars on the roof with a bungy or something, stick a piece of number plate or something that thick between the pads to act as the disc, wait about an hour for all the air to move up to the caliper & then pump it out the top, works every time & guarantees a rock solid lever, hope that helps, Del
Pretty mush right there Alex....to lift out the old fluid, get a plastic bag ready right beside the reservoir, then make a big wad of kitchen roll paper and dunk it slowly in the fluid so it soaks it all up, then lift and drop the paper in the bag, repeat it with more paper till the rez is empty, seal it up and chuck it in the bin.....once the rez is empty, don't worry, air rises to it wont get down into the hose...just top up with fresh fluid and pump it through....job done. good luck, Del,
Well done, mate, it's just a little housekeeping and makes all the difference as you can see! Ride safe, Del
Awesome video. Love how you explain how things work as well as extra precautions you should take. I wish there were more tutorial videos like yours out there
Hi Alex,opinions vary on this,some say,like Bill,that you go to the farthest first then do the closer one,and others say vice versa,but the correct answer is that it doesn't matter,if you take the tape measure & measure the hoses they are the same length,the trick is to bleed one,then the other & then do a quick final pump on the first one again to ensure that no oil fluid bleed across with suction - don't be too OCD about it,mate,as long as the fluid is changed every 2yrs it will be fine, Del
Del, been watching your vids for ages. Just wanted to thank you & Penny for all your teachings. Just wanted to let you know just uprated headlight bulbs and changed brake fluid. I would never have attempted this without your videos and did it confidently. I cheated a bit by using a bleed kit but im sure its the giving it a go that counts, oh and that I dont have 14 year old fluid in my brake system. Keep up the vids you take the fear factor and mysticism out of it.
Hi David, "its the giving it a go that counts"....you couldn't have said it better my friend... it is indeed the 'getting stuck in and doing it that counts, if a bleed kit works for you, then good, it HAS to be better than paying a spotty yoof with a certificate £40 to do it for you at the dealer..!!?
Thank you for your compliments, kits great to hear such kind and generous support, the channel is nothing without its viewers, so keep watching, and if you ever need a specific tip or guidance then just drop us a PM any time... take care mate, all the best.. Del.
Hi mate, the old bungie-in trick works all the time, do it periodically to sharpen up the feel of the lever... with all the heat and pressure back and fourth on the fluid it develops microscopic bubbles al lthe time, open the valve up top over night and hey presto, they all drift up and out....good luck with the MOT mate.. Del.
Hi Rich, yes indeed, mate, exactly the same.. the ABS is an electric sensor and nothing to do with the hydraulics as such, so changing the fluid is the same either way... with the back brake, it's the same procedure, just press the pedal as you open and close the nipple (the same as pulling the front lever) ... hope that's helps you, good luck, Del
Great vids mate. Just ordered the fluid and tubing for my first ever brake fluid change. Love the no nonsense and common sense approach to your vids, very informative. Keep it up.
Thats it mate, exactly that. you'll need long arms or another person as the lever is on the right and the brake caliper on the left....but its the same mechanical principle as the front... hope that helps.. good luck ,Del.
Bleeding brakes can be tricky... it just needs patience & persistance & you'll get there... you can make headway by bleeding upside down. Take the caliper off the wheel and hang it up higher than the master cylinder as air rises naturally, then bleed by pumping 3-4 times, hold the lever in, then open & close the nipple whilst holding the lever, gradually you will pump fluid 'up' and chase the air out (stick something between the pads to represent the discs) this is easier with a friend to help
Hi mate, best way to answer that question yourself is pop the resevoir cap off and take a look inside ... it can look darker through the window than it actually is due the lack of light - if it's the colour of a pint of Fosters then you are good to go! If it's more like stewed tea, then I would change it ... it may only be a year old, but there would have been a period between the bike being built and it being registered and this can be up to a year - if in doubt, change it anyway, mate, Del
Maximum pinchage! Brilliant expression, lol. Thanks for another great video Del. Just bought a Bandit (the story is on the forum) and needs plenty of TLC. Brake fluid change is now on the list.
hi Delboy
update from our last conversation and watching this video which gave, me the confidence to replace my front brake master cylinder assembly.
bleed the system in on my XL1200R today 30/8/14 it didnt take an hour to do, i brought genuine Harley master cylinder kit £35+ from jersey harley . an after market kit on ebay if your on a tight budget for under £20.
but hey thanks again delboy for lots of tips since watching ive also changed my shocks .
regards Brian
Well done Brian, glad to hear it mate, there's nothing better than doing it yourself for enhancing the joy of ownership (and saving a few beans lol!), well done buddy, glad we could help, Del
Thanks Del I really appreciate you taking the time to get back to me. Until my next silly Q. Ride safe. cheers mate, Rich.
Hi Mike. It is a ratchet driver, its 8" (measured minus the handle), number is "SSDMR8" could be an old number as its over 20 years old..but that will get you the right tool.. cheers buddy. del.
Del you must be some kind of mind reader because this is one of those jobs I've been putting off!
Well done mate, what a change, and what a legend of a bike too,, enjoy it mate, and ride safe. Del.
Hey Del, upgraded the bandit to a Buell so I'm watching all your Harley vids now! Will be doing this after work to tomorrow thanks for the tutorial.
Hi Rik, often this is more a case of warranty comeback than anything else - if your dealer is ok for you to wait the mileage then you can do so, but then engine isn't doing any work, it isn't deteriorating, however, it doesn't hurt to change the brake fluid every 2 years as that deteriorates with time irrespective of mileage ...all the rest should be ok to wait till 5k - hope that helps you mate, Cheers Del
I love that the best Harley advice I can find is a guy from England. You've saved me a couple hundred dollars ( about 150 Pounds lol).
Cool! Let me know when you get to Pennsylvania. I know just the biker bar to take you to.
+Gordon Sold, we have a firm plan to get over and visit lots of friends in the US when life slows down enough to let us....and at least half a dozen of the buddies we know are between NC, PA, and MI. so its on the list buddy... ill take you up on that for sure..!!
Man your good I just changed the brake line for taller bars and my reservoir cap has been leaking and I cranked the screws down just like you said! I'm going to be taking the cap apart like you showed I also watched your video on changing the line much appreciated! Ride on!
Based on what you've told me, it sounds like your rear brake caliper may be siezed ... all it takes is a little rubbing that builds up heat which leads to expansion and as everything expands it gets worse and eventually locks up... without looking at the bike (as you haven't even said what it is) I can only suggest to take the caliper off the rear disc to strip and inspect it, make sure you don't have a brake hose kinked or trapped & let me know how you get on ... Del
Hi mate, yeah there will be some, the pads only run about 1mm off the face of the disc, and the are only held off by inertia....so there will be a bit of fall back so they slightly rest against the disc lightly.....so when you spin the rim you'll often get a rhythmic rubbing, but not enough to slow the wheel as its just touching under its own weight... ok,?, hope that helps. Del.
awesome .. gonna do brake fluid tomorrow on the katana.. great to get a review before hand.. cheers.
Hi Alex, if you look down on the fluid with the lid off, as long as it's clean, that's fine ...if your reservoir doesn't have the metal plate inside the glass (which some don't) then you are looking in to the void of fluid through a tiny hole and as no light gets in there, it will appear dark!
Thank you for this simple and quick movie. Very helpfull for starters like me!
Thanks
Hi Daan, you're most welcome, thanks for posting! Del
There are many toys Bill...and they are all good.. me, i just love a simple old tube and jam jar..!lol thanks for watching buddy.. Del.
Great video Del, I was planning on changing my brake fluid tomorrow to hopefully sort my spongey brakes. This has cleared up some of the finer details! Cheers, ride safe
Mate, another job well done.. Thanks for sharing your knowledge once again, when mine needs doing this will take the black magic component out of the task!
God luck with it mate...its just good house keeping. Del.
Hi again....i would say that will the good mileage you do, it would be well worth taking the step of changing your fluid early, after all, its only 6 months away, and you ride your bike more than most people do....also its very cheap and cane also serve to remove any water content that has built up and any air in the system.. you will certainly feel they are better afterwards... good luck and ride safe buddy.. Del.
Thank you most kindly sir, i hope it goes well for you, let me know how you get on, or if you get stuck.....cheers and good luck, Del.
Yep, thats right, unless you run a tandem system, do what Bill said below..!
You do a great job showing and explaining and your videographer does a great job too!
I just noticed some fluid leaking from my front wheel on 2001 883.
I surmise is brake fluid... but why would it leak. I'll admit, in new to riding, don't do long distance but seldom, but have never maintenanced the brakes since I bought it in late 2018. Thank you for your expertise.
Is it brake fluid, or is it fork oil, running down the fork leg from a leaking seal?
Yeah they sometimes need a little use to settle in...well done mate...
Thanks Delboy. Just the video that I needed :)
Turns out I was doing it wrong earlier. Now I understand why it didn't work very well.
Glad it helped buddy... !
The vent is in the filler neck via the overflow, air escapes from heat expansion through the same route as overflowing fuel, it's nothing to do with the cap and if you buy the cap correct for you bike it'll be the right one!
youre right. That's the same thing the other gurus just told me. Thanks a lot and keep em coming
You are the best man! Anytime I am ready to try a new job your videos help me out! I am about to change the front brake line on the 2011 48 I just picked up!
Thanks buddy, im glad the videos can help you out, and just feel free to drop me a line any time you're stuck... always online sometime during each day... take care and keep yer boots on the breeze... Del.
Yeah, i thought the clamp was a cheap item...but the billet top clamp replacement certainly isnt..! Penny may even go back to the OE bracket yet, see how she feels after a few miles..
Great stuff as always Del! I think I'm going to have to do mine as well. .... That speedo clamp is called an Auto Meter 3209 Tachometer Shock Strap. You can buy them on Amazon for around $15.00. It's a nice modification that anyone can do and it's cheap too! I was going to use that on mine but decided to scrap the speedo altogether.
Hi mate. Yes we got the sticker, thanks for that, i love the design too. The preload can be a bit baffling, so yeah, ill poke a note on the 'videos to make' list and get to that soon... thanks for watching... Del.
nice one, you cover all the points clearly, I get it first time and I'm a newbie, I think I'll subscribe to you my friend, thanks for taking the time.
I'm sure Del will correct if I'm wrong but yes you should do both calipers to get all the old fluid out of the whole system. You should do the side furthest away from the master cylinder first, then the other one.
Did exactly what you said with the cover. Cleaned it off all the time thinking it was leaking.
Yeah, its a common misconception, and im sure one that has cost people money in the past..!
Hey Del and pen. Whats crackin in England, besides another awesome vid?I love the inventory of JACKETS behind you mate!!! Damn one for every day of the bloody week, eh??!!!!! well Alrighty, now!!!
My 2004 XL 1200C uses DOT 5 brake fluid. So, it is dark when new. I believe it turns yellow once it ages. Kind of...the opposite of yours, it would seem.
The only other difference seems to be that my bleed nipple is an 8mm.
Other than that...the video was very helpful.
Thanks again from Texas.
great video Del like always very informative and easy to follow ,cheers mate
Thank you for this simple work!!!!. Very helpfull for starters like me!!!!!!God Bless You!!!!
Thanks
Thanks Gloria, you are most kind, im glad it helped you...take care and ride safe. Del.
nice one delboy, teaching the newbies ( including me lol ). saving money and learning for free, champion
I think by the sound of it you mean 'spongy' and not as firm ...which sounds like you've trapped some air in the system .. if you let the resevorr quantity drain right out while you are pumping through, you'll feed air into the hose .. bleed it through again until all bubbles are gone, but as you do it keep the resevoir topped up, it should be at least as hard as it was before, if not better...let me know how it goes, good luck, Del
Cheers Del. Looking forwards to your new vids.
DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based and doesn't harm paint or rubber.
And its non-hygroscopic.
The brake fluid is fine as long as it's not leaking... the lever is probably hard to pull because the corner edges of the brake pump where you hit them have closed and jammed the lever, maybe you need to bend them open slightly, or replace the lever if it is bent ... sorry can't be more help without seeing it... Del
We are the Borg, we are always watching....lol..
No, it uses fluid pressure just the same....it has a master cylinder under the front of the swing arm that is operated by a rod from the pedal...have a look, you'll see it.
Thanks Wayne....i knew you would know...take care fellah.. Del.
great job mate, instead of using the paper towel to soak up the fluid in the reservoir , i have a large syringe with a bit of tube on , to suck all the crap out.
Hi mate....after so long sitting about.. i would say why not strip the whole system and make it a bit if a refurb project...after all, it is brakes and then you'll know its right.. good licujk with it, cheers, Del.
wow that is a very supportive partner there. nice tutorial
Thanks mate, she's a biker herself and knows more about bikes than some guys i know...! she loves every minute of it.
What's up dude great vid as usual. Loving the new bike, regards Adam .
Damn...you make everything look easy, my brother....amazing!I just bought a 200cc syringe...cant wait to attach my 2005 fatboy. dot 5. My lever is braking at 1/2 grip, way to much. just got so use to the sponginess, crazy right!
Have you use the DOT 5 already, is that what is in the system right now buddy..?
Great video. What about rear break fluid change?
Smashing tutorial del :-)
I put a thin film of oil on the chamfer of the screws to stop corrosive action.
Nipple jokes lol :-)
No reply.
Excellent...Excellent...Excellent point on the air vent on the lid of the brake cap! I can't tell you how many times that is overlooked! Have you ever tried reverse bleeding? I have found that to be a lot easier to do by myself and just as quick
You can never be "too" OCD Del, otherwise, it wouldn't be OCD! :)
That's a bit gash! It looks black before, and it looks black after. But it's new fluid that went in that certainly looked a lot clearer than the "tea" that came out. No bubbles as I was pushing it through and out the nipple. The reservoir did appear to be almost full to the brim when i took the cap off. I think you had the same with the 883, do they just like to overfill them at the factory? Anyway, all topped off and feeling firm. Haven't test ridden it yet, but worked in the driveway. thanks d
Great tutorial! I need to do a brake fluid change myself :)
Sorry, meant to say 'Thanks Mike'....must read messages more carefully...take care, Del.
I loved your video for front brake fluid change. Do you have one for the rear?
Scratch that- took it for a quick ride with loads of braking. Got back and no bad binding. Must have just needed a bit of usage to balance itself.
Thanks what they're for buddy.. !
With the oil on the chamfer...i DONT do that, as a little white powder build up stops them unwinding and they dont need any torque..! a little on the thread mind, thats just common sense.
Hi Del,
im retired and bought myself a harley sportster 1200cc 2007 model bike been stood since 2011, rode it about 140 miles great bike, put it in my garage and noticed petrol leak on the check valve, just ordered a new check valve from harley £69.70 could you tell me how to change this check valve watched all your vidios with you and penny but cant find one on changing a petrol check valve.
keep on the good work love watching you dave.
Now for the little sportster our mighty Del will mount the 120cubic inches screaming eagle engine, stage 1 2 and 3... first sportster capable to beat up the hayabusa! :D
Great video. Very helpful thank you. I assume the rear brake (non abs) is the same method / concept?
Scratch that question. Just seen your other comment already answering it.
Thanks again for taking the time to make all the videos. Found them very helpful over the years.
Most welcome Paul, glad they help you!
Del I did everything to the point with your video. Now the break feels smoother not as hard to press like before. Its that normal after a few miles will it get stiffer. Thanks
Thanks Del & Pen, another great clear video,
Q is this the same for an ABS system on bandit 650? What about the back brake pedal etc? Apologies for newbee silly Q. cheers Rich.
Hi Del, just wanted to extend a thanks to you after a final look at this video on the flat screen on sunday morning, I then proceeded to carry out my brake fluid change. It wasn't difficult, but the "squeeze/open/shut/release" technique is exactly that, just technique and practice, but after watching your video, the job went by without a hitch. Just curiously, before the change, the window on the reservoir was black and after the change, it's exactly the same colour! ? Why would that be?
Hi Del, I checked the window on my fluid reservoir yesterday and it looks pretty brown/black. However, the bike was registered new in March 2012, I purchased it in July 2012, so it's only just over a year old. Now i know you said that mileage is irrelevant, but FYI there's only 3500 miles on the clock and as I said it's only just over a year old. I believe you said every 2 years you should change it, but given the colour, should I change it now!?
Hi Delboy, thank you very much for this another great and helpful video. I have a small question please. If I just change the brake fluid in the front and rear reservoirs without bleeding the old fluids in the hoses, will the old and fresh fluid mix? Will this be OK for a quick brake fluid change?
Hi buddy, no mate, it won't... the hydraulic fluid doesn't flow back and forth, it sits in the system pretty much stationery, and there is little benefit to be had from just changing what's in the resevoir... it becomes water logged over time as it's hydro scopic, and this can rust the internal parts, so make sure you change all of the fluid at least every 3 years at most... it will mix, but the old fluid will just contaminate the new stuff making it pointless!
Del it worked, thanks. Now i have a dumb question i am changing my harley gas cap to a pop up gas cap. Do you know if 2010 nightser sportster is vented or non vented gas cap. thanks you
You answered a Question right at the end of the video, i was going to say/ask would you then bleed all calipers once you've removed to old fluid and got it running clean at the front? I've got a Sporty but the Roadster so two front calipers. Great vids keep them coming. Cheers Phil
Hi Dell,
Excellent tutorial as always :)
First time caller but long time listener, since Discovery episodes, but now I actually own my own bike (long story) :)
Brakes question for expert: I've changed one of brake hoses on front brakes, yamaha fzs600 fazer 1998, and after bleeding brakes i've noticed a little oil around bleeding nipple screw.
Just a few drops around screw thread. I've ziptied brakes overnight, and they seems to be sturdy (but sometimes I doubt in myself as this is my first bike).
I've not ridden motorcycle for safety, but I see people saying that when you put screw cap it can actually push some left over oil out of screw trough threads.
There is no leakage trough the screw, just around the threads, on both brake calipers. Some people say I can put teflon tape, but since it is not there from the factory, I do not want to "re-engineer" the brakes.
I will leave it zip-tied for few days and check if there is any more leaking around the screw, since my wife and I commute on motorcycle every day, I want to be sure that all is fine, if there is leakage I do not want to ride it.
Is this "normal" to happen, maybe you mentioned in some of the episodes but I missed it (do you have a link?)
Cheers and all the best!
Hi mate, thanks for your question and I fully understand what you are asking...
You will always have a residue of brake fluid around the nipple screw after bleeding it, and when you tighten the screw down, it should completely seal against the taper at the bottom and NOTHING should come up the sides at all, once all brake fluid is removed it should remain bone dry and NEVER put teflon tape round it, as this is a dangerous bodge... as you say, it's not designed to be there by the factory...
Firstly, wash the brake caliper off completely (no need to keep them taped in under pressure) and once you've washed the caliper with soapy water, dry it with a hairdryer or airline to get it completely bone dry, then take the bike for a short test ride... you should see no brake fluid or dampness at all around the bleed screw... if you do, then simply buy some new bleed screws from the dealer, as they can become corroded and worn... this should cure it, if not, then you may have to replace the caliper, but try not to worry, as the fluid you are seeing is probably coming out of the hole in the centre of the bleed screw and weeping down the sides through capilary action... so wash it all off thoroughly and it should be fine... Hope that helps, let me know, Del
Moonfleet41
Thank you for reply, I really appreciate it. I bought new genuine nipple (the old one had little rust around bottom/beginning of the thread), changed it, cleaned the new nipple, blown it with compressed air, ziptied brakes over night, and in morning i've found one drop around the nipple screw. I've cleaned it again, blown nipple with compressed air both inside and out, it was bone dry, and after ~3h ziptied brakes i can see half a drop around the screw thread. On the other side/caliper it is bone dry for two days.
Is the existing caliper fixable somehow? Of the new caliper is the way to go from here?
Brand new caliper is around 550e/pounds, would you recommend a used one from ebay for 40-50 euros/pounds? I am a bit afraid that the ebay one could have similar problems or something, but the new one is almost unreachable this season :(
Thank you very much for your time!
dakipro
There are many good quality parts on the second hand market, if you buy a used one, it is so much cheaper that it has to be worth a try....the worst you'll have to do is fit new seals and paint it....but if you have fixed the other one, why not try another new bleed screw, and perhaps screw it in a little tighter, obviously not too tight so you damage it...but it could only need a little more then you are giving it...ive never had a problem with them leaking... so before you spend any more money, try looking up the torque setting and actually torque it in place.. its just possible you arent doing it up tight enough....you have nothing to lose aye..?
Moonfleet41
Where is the "buy Delboy a bear" button? I cannot google the forum you started (forgot the link, sorry) and I do not know how to donate a bear to you my friend, because your advice works!
I did tighten the nipple just a bit more and left brakes ziptied overnight (maybe i shouldn't do this at all?) and there was no oil on it, as it is supposed to be.
And you saved me a lot of time, nerves and money, and since I do not leave close enough to come personally I would like to, at least, buy you a bear as a gratitude for the advice and your time. Can you send me the link or some other method (paypal?) where I can donate a bear to the Delboy's garage.
Please, I insist and it would make me feel great if I could somehow repay you.
Btw, if you are traveling to Norway, you are our guests :)
Cheers!
dakipro
Hi there buddy, thank you so much for the kind sentiment, its really nice to recieve such good feedback.. i knew there wouldn't be much wrong with those brakes, often its just the fear of overtightening that makes us take too much care... glad you got it fixed... If you wanted to support the channel, we have some Hoodies tops with the 'Delboy's Garage' logo on them about to be ordered tomorrow....so if you would like one, they do make us a very small markup and many people have used this to feed us back some support for all they have learned...so here is a link to the video, Delboy's Garage, 'HOODIES';- Orders Please?
The paypal address is at about 7.18 but if you watch it through you'll get all the details on how to order, or just send something token for a beer (as you say) if you would prefer.....get your order in quick if you would like one as the stuff will be ordered in the morning.... thanks again mate and ride safe.. Del & Penny.
Hi Del, reading through, looking for advice on dual caliper front brakes, is Bill De La Vega correct in saying I should bleed through the left caliper (furthest from cylinder) first, then bleed the right caliper (closest to cylinder)?? Your advice greatly appreciated as I'm getting "tooled up" for this weekend to change my fluid!?
Hello Delboy, I have a question unrelated to this topic. Have a 95 Sportster 1200 with the dual gauges on the bike, both have stopped working properly and I'm on a budget, do you know of any dual gauge combo or some other one that I can buy to put on my bike? The Harley gauges want $500.00 dollars and that's way to much money for me to spend. Thank you very much. Love watching your very informative videos and they help allot. Demetrios
I also have what may be a stupid question, if I have two front calipers, do I just do the same procedure of pumping the lever for each one? Thanks!