I have a 2011 Durango Crew with the 3.6 and RWD, I am wanting to know which would be the easier drivetrain swap, the 5.7 out of an RT Durango or the 392 from an SRT Durango. I know a lot of people will say to just buy one of the other models, but I'm more of the built not bought mentality. I already plan to buy a wrecked vehicle to pull everything from, but like I said at the beginning, I want to know which would be the easier way to go.
@@Basslightning666 a friend of mine went from a 2021 widebody Scat to a Cat...and although he loves the Cat, he misses getting better gas mileage from the Scat
@@jn5727 May sound funny, but there's something about my RT Shaker that makes me not want to get rid of it... I feel alive when I am in it... Non enthusiasts would never understand...
I swapped a mmx ported 6.4 manifold on my 5.7. Used the mmx srv harness which made it so easy and is awesome for controlling that rpm switch point (which i discovered after dynoing that 4400-4450 was the sweet spot. Anyways, paired with a 85mm tb, afe intake, and tune I gained as much as 68ft lbs tq and 44hp in areas. Huge!
Hands down, 392 is my favorite N/A engine. Finally got my 392 Challenger a year ago after driving a 345 Shaker for years. I absolutely love the big block Hemi.
Glad your enjoying the 6.4. Just FYI the 5.7 6.1 6.2 and 6.4 are all the same size block. The differences are a raised cam tunnel and strengthened block on the 6.2 and 6.4 the 6.2 is just a destroked 6.4 BGE truck block aka hellcat block. Happy hot rodding.
The SRV controller for the 6.4 intake manifold is made by Z Automotive only sold at MMX. I used it with my 6.4 intake manifold swap. Way easier to install than the MSD switch method. Also you'll get the best results with a custom tune.
I've fitted a 6.4 inlet manifold to my 5.7 pre vvt with the mix adapter plates with the msd window switch on a very mild 5.7 and the bum dyno is a definite thumbs up for performance and ban for buck.
My 10 model has 180,500 miles on it. No oil use, no ticks from the motor, and replaced 1 leaky injector. I did put BBK shorties to solve the exhaust manifold issue.i run the shit out of it once a month. Its tuned, no cats, 2 1/2 true duel exhaust, cold air intake. These are great motors. No internal repairs or nothing and it runs like a pissed off tomcat.
It's no secret that the N/A hemis don't handle boost very well but lately I've been seeing some videos pop up and people talking about running their 5.7s reliably well past what people used to consider safe levels of boost and the only thing they did was open up the gap a little bit on the upper rings where you normally see the failures in the ringlands. I'd love to see you do something like that in your upcoming boosted hemi build and get your opinion on it.
I actually added a remote oil filter cooler with a sandwich adapter on top of my 6.4 water to oil cooler. There was a slight pressure drop but my oil temps and coolant temps rebound and remain about 20 degrees cooler on average even in high temps.
Pressure drop would have me worried with these engines as it's low to begin with for their requirements. Why not put in a lower temp thermostat ? It will lower oil temps as well by keeping the block cooler.
@@DL101ca because i already have a 180degree thermostat and hard driving in the heat i was seeing 250-270 degree oil temp spikes. Coolant would follow suite and spike as well. My oil pressure is always 35 at idle and 58psi max. So no real problems with oil pressure or volume here.
@@DL101ca also a lower temp thermostat doesn't really mitigate heat like you would think. Sure it opens sooner but that only matters at lower temps around 180 degrees. After hard driving if the block and coolant are any hotter they behave the same way. You would do better with fan upgrades and or a better radiator. Also in my opinion (considering my car came with the lower temp thermostat) i personally wouldn't have changed it because many of these motors run well at a higher "normal temperature" by design and can actually cause the motor to be temperamental and noisy under temp. This keeps my coolant even and my oil temps normal. And they rebound faster after hard driving.
I have the 6.4 on my 5.7, and have the first Z Automotive SRV controller kit they sell thru MMX.. They did the Dyno testing, but it's a Z Auto product. It works fantastic,and easy to install. I ran without the short valves working for about a year, it ran great, but it is much better with that kit.
@@MoparSrt702 Perfectly. I know they changed when it went from pre-eagle to Eagle, it bolted up with no issues in my 17. It's a simple swap, you need a filter setup ( the IAT boot or 6.4 CAI ) an extension for the IAT and a way to activate the runners. The Z Automotive kit works on all 11-21 Powernet, and non Powernet.
Thanks for answering my question I was really leaning towards doing the 6.1 cause don't really have to do the runners just bolt it up but I do want the best performance so I'll be saving up for that 6.4 manifold 😎💯
Over the past year the 6.4 manifold prices jumped liked everything else, I can’t find them for less then about a grand, not including the controller. This changes things in my opinion. I can find hellcat superchargers for around 1500(not including the rest of the gear needed) but still it’s looking like boosting is becoming more cost effective.
Thanks for all the great info. I’m doing a cam and lifter swap, a Greene v2 .5 HL, and swapping to a MMX truck 6.4 intake in my 2015 Ram. This video gave me the final confirmation that I made the right choice
On my 5.7 hemi challenger I just very slightly twist the dip stick back and forth while pulling up, so far so good lol, love these videos, keep them coming 👍😁
First, love your videos, especially the detail you go in to for us. I have a 2009 Charger R/T and have installed the 392 intake manifold and love it. With and MSD window switch, the mopar connector for the SRV actuator had it up and going in about 2 hours.
for broken oil dipstick, use the thinnest self tapping screw to bite into the plastic, get a few threads down in it, use pliers to pull on the screw and it comes right out.
My solution to the broken dipstick started out the same as yours, but the final step was different. I drill the small pilot hole as you did, but then threaded in a drywall screw, just a couple threads so it didn't expand the plastic. It pulled right out by hand.
I have a 2006 300C SRT8. I'm definitely keeping you on my top views!! You seem mad chill and your knowledge seems crazy 🍌 banana's not to take your advice!!
So broken dipstick removal. How I do it is slightly different. I have and old screw driver I welded a Phillips head wood screw to. I use a propane torch to heat up that screw stick it into the plastic that is still stuck in the tube and let it cool down for 5 minutes. Grab the screw driver and yank it out and the dipstick pops right out with it
For my broken dipstick on my Chrysler 300, I used a drill and tap set for an 8-32 bolt. I drilled it and then threaded the hole with the tap and used the tap to pull the dipstick.
Regarding removing the broken dipstick, you may be able to use an easy out tool to remove the remaining broken off portion in the block. It’s worth a try… 👍
mine broke, i heated up a the first half of a drywall screw with torch held it with vice grips and screwed it in about 3 or 4 turns, let it cool and then pulled it out
When I did my cam swap in my Durango rt at 76000 miles I replaced the tensioner and the guide but not the timing chain. There was actually a tiny bit of ware on the surface of the plastic of each. I figured if anything is gonna fail in regards to the timing chain it will be the plastic parts.
I've watched several of your videos in the last 2 days and i have to tell you thanks for taking time to share such valuable information I've learned a lot about my Challengers Hemi
I removed my broken dipstick tube with a drill like you did, but found a very sharp drywall screw could bite into the plastic and give enough purchase to pull it out easily.
I don't blame you for going back to central Oregon, i lived in Bend years ago and had to move for work. Still miss living there....maybe when i retire.
Just wanted to comment on another slick way that i recently found to get a dipstick put was a wooden craft dowel and some hot glue on the end.... amazingly it did the trick with no shavings, as i couldnt put pressure on mine due to it going farther down out of reach.
My method for removing a broken dipstick is similar. The difference is I will screw in a sheet rock screw or something similar and then clamp on with some vice grips and yank.
please don't stop what you are doing, thank you for all your help. i have a dumb question replaced wheel hub assembly have 2011 ram 1500 can u grease your bearings thru the abs sensor, or is separate from the sealed bearing. thank you.
Demonology found a crew that could hook up the holly dominator on his demon that allows all the functionality of the original dodge ecu, bypassing only performance items.
The 2 best intakes for best power over the full curve is the 5.7 truck intake and 6.4 truck intake. After that it’s the 6.4 car intake which is on par with the 5.7 truck intake.
I currently have a 6.1 intake manifold on my boosted 5.7. I think the 6.4 intake is definitely way to go, but I got a real good deal on a 6.1 intake. The 6.1 intake looks soo good, but I know I'm losing some HP/TQ on the table when compared to the 6.4 intake! I think I may have it ported and see if that helps 🤔...
Thanks bud, another great video. I like to watch your videos and pretend I’m going to mod up my ram truck but most likely will only fix it when necessary, except loud exhaust of course.
I installed the 6.4 hemi intake manifold on my 5.7 after I cammed it. Lost low end tq with the cam ,but gained good low end tq from the swap. Enough to not even notice the car has a cam.
I have a 2018 dodge charger randomly. I have a ticking sound coming somewhere from the passenger side. You can hear it really well by the front wheel. It does not always make the sound, and it doesn’t matter if you’re driving fast or slow. Sometimes it happens at start up most of the time a couple minutes after start up when it does and then it goes away never last for more than about 40 seconds. Dealership told me that it seems like it’s coming from the solenoid, and that there’s nothing to fix I was just trying to get a second opinion if the solenoid is known for having a ticking sound releasing pressure or some thing and if that’s considered normal and something that’s OK and doesn’t need to be fixed.
2007 ram 3.7, 42rle. I have no trans codes but it slips like crazy here and there. Depends how you drive in traffic and under load. Ive put on 75,000 miles since it was at 100,000. Always done it. Never changed the filter or fluid either...
2012 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 4x4 Shutting off if put in reverse after engine warms up idle jumps from 400 to 1000 a lot, so I cleaned the throttle body and still stalls
The timing chain tensioner failed on my 5.7 at 246k miles. It jumped time and destroyed my engine, and I had to buy a rebuild replacement. So yeah, change the timing chain tensioner, chain, and gears before 240k miles to be safe.
We have a 2012 Chrysler 300 C w a 5.7 with about 50000 miles and I'm absolutely in love w it! But my question is that we've been on 3 road trips, other then that it's been a lot of city driving! Our last trip was to Jacksonville Florida, and I noticed as I was reaching between the speeds of 75 and 80 I can hear the engine hum inside the car! I looked at my room gauge and I was doing about 2000 rpms at 78 mph. Now I have a 5 speed automatic! And it's the first time I feel this happening! Would this be a normal operation since it's a Hemi? Thank you.
@rgxx. I have 2011 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi. My engine has 266,000 miles and so far I don't have any issues with my timing chain. (Now that I've said this, it will start having issues....lol) However it does have the infamous Hemi lifter tick. When I tear it down to do the cam and lifters, obviously I will go ahead and do a timing chain and gear set swap, just since I'll already have it apart, I might as well do it. The set is only like $175 on RockAuto. And also while I have it apart, I'm going to do the oil pump swap to a Hellcat oil pump which run about $190 on RockAuto.
am a mechanic from Russia and I will tell you my opinion, Hemi has a short chain and therefore it lasts forever. My mileage is 650 and the chain is the same as new.
Always informative. Great content. Looking for low end torque for my 2012 Ram 1500 towing. Nothing more discouraging than going up an incline and the trans downshifts into 4th and sometimes 3rd. I don't need top end speed just low end grunt and go. I'm look for a truck 392 intake.
6.4L intake is a great an easy mod sir; the guys in my groups with the 5.7’s are making around 25hp and 20Ib’s of torque. You want to get 1 3/4 Longtubes to go with it. These two mods will put your truck around 450 crank horsepower with lots of low end.
You’re better off getting shorty headers with a tune for low end torque if you don’t have that yet. If you do then sure the 392 intake will help as well
@@Mrhandyhitman. According to to multiple dyno studies and runs I’ve seen you will get more torque and horsepower everywhere under the curve with Long tubes. However, the Long tubes are expensive, and you can make a little extra power with the factory scat pack and Hellcat shorties over the factory truck logs. Richard Holdener Has done a lot of research on longtubes/ manifolds, cams, all forms of boost, and everything else engine wise.
You must be standing on the edge of the Columbia Gorge. Whereabouts is this? I run tugboats on the Lower Columbia, but I'm not so familiar with the upper. And thanks for all the good info - recently got a 2012 Jeep w/ hemi and knew nothing about the motor. Thanks to you, now I do...
Thanks! Actually this is at a lake called Billy Chinook which is in Central Oregon. But the Gorge is beautiful as well, I'm up there a lot due to family in the area.
How about a stripped out oil pan drain plug stripped out to the max is round no wrench or vice grip will bite the guy before used an impact on it thinking about welding a boxed end wrench over the bolt a fill with weld this fastner is on there. Tried easy outs and most hope and pray methods.
I've had my 2008 Ram 4x4 since it was one-year-old. Since the day that I bought it I have been using full synthetic oil. Is there any reason to change to a high mileage oil? The hammy has 157000 miles on it and still runs great
It's not a truck but i have a 2012 Civic Si with a K24Z7 engine. It's tuned, has about 200whp and i ran it from day 1 using AMSoil SS, Redline oil or Pennzoil Platinum Ultra. 470k km later, it still runs like a champ, doesn't burn oil and doesn't leak oil. I never used High Milleage Oils in it and when i changed the Clutch at about 400k, i changed the rear crank seal at it was as soft as the Brand New OE one that went in it's place. I'd say, use quality synthetic oil of your liking and don't extend the intervals too much!
I added a torqstorm supercharger on my 06 daytona rt a few other mods as well curious on the holley sniper intake. Can beat the price on a torqstorm compared to others very well made kit 06s have the small port heads a swap is in the mix after i choose the😮 intake. Great thread!
2012 ram 5.7 Bought with cam/lifter failure Replaced with mds delete cam and lifters Now getting a random misfire cylinder 6 misfire but runs good Turned off mds with tuner
Thanks Sky for your thoughts on my question. I think you're definitely right, 20 years ago people would think we were mad if we'd say GM and Ford both worked on a transmission together, Toyota and Subaru worked on an entire car together and Dodge and ZF worked on their own transmissions together. One of the things I really liked about the Hemi is that it seems like if you have a 10, 13 and 15mm socket, you can pretty much rebuild the entire engine.
I don't recommend it if you can avoid it, but try working on the eco-diesel engine 😄 It's made by VM diesel which is a company that Fiat owns, and that thing is the most complex disaster you've ever seen!
Hey Sky, another great video! Just as a follow up to the last question and regarding swaps, I just posted a video on my channel about wiring the factory PCM so people can get an idea of what is involved vs the Holley Terminator. Oh and as far as drilling the dipstick, I find putting grease on the drill bit helps to keep the shavings out of the tube...also I have put a wood screw in to have something to yank on. Great content as always!
whats your thoughts on Vortech/Procharger superchargers and their kits? They look like a much more economical and beginner friendly bolt-on option for the 06 Hemis. Is it worth the price tag at around 9 grand, or is it better to go with a traditional super charger for closer to 12k and have a tech install it? Prices are in Canadian, market is kind of bonkers up here for car parts.
Hi bud, im sure u are swamped by questions but ill try anyway! 03 2500 5.7 - reringed it 6 yrs ago when i traded it, also new bearings and timing set.. no CEL no codes, starts perfectly drives and passes smog - i get 8mpg city and 11 highway - it really lacks low end!Ive been battling this for the past 2 years- took it to AAMCO for a test drive and the guy was like heck yeah, sth is def wrong here. I recently dropped 4.56 gears, b4 that cat, muffler, injectors, coils, k&n intake, ground straps, confirmed fuel psi, new sensors, i replaced the TC 2 years back, and still its driving like a turd at lower rpms until i get on it she FINALLY wakes up! at idle my TPS randomly jumps all over the place, the AAMCO guy said that was wrong and the 545RFE solenoids will go haywire with a jumpy tps signal. I have tested the APPS unit and its passing so im considering pinning it directly to the ECM (which I have also swapped!!!) What are your thoughts? truck has 120k miles and is in very good shape otherwise.. i really want to keep it but im bleeding ont his thing. A friend took me in his 04 2500 for a test and blew me away with the power!!! mine drives like a v6 or worse! please please help me!
So I bought a 2020 Ram1500 5.7 2wd non E torque. Everytime I start thinking about doing engine mods, I think to myself, why not just get a junkyard 6.4 SRT motor and tranny with the ECM and plugs and just tear it down and replace the pistons for a forced induction. Go through the rest of the motor to freshen anything else up that needs it and put that into the ram. I’m looking for big HP but still able to sit in traffic with the air on.
Enjoyed this episode. Looking forward to the forced induction 5.7. I have both a 2006 5.7 300C and a 2016 6.4 300C SRT here in Australia. The 6.4 with 470HP absolutely hammers but there is something just soo sweet about the 5.7. Mine has over 200000 miles on it and a timing chain rattle but otherwise still uses no oil and runs sweet.
I picked up a 06 1500 with the 5.7... absolutely love it.. and it has atleast 240k mies on it and still running strong... I chenge the oil every 3k miles... oil filter every oil change....doesn't burn oil... and is used daily.... I've read comments from others that the 5.7 can last past 500k miles if taking care of right... only thing i don't like is the mds system....you buy a truck not worrying about how much gas you use...so adding the mds to the trucks was imo extremely stupid on the designers part....I make sure to turn that mds off while town driving... and turn it on when on the open road running at 55 mph or more.
I was looking through your videos and I didn't see a vid in ref to this. My question is this. On the owners manual says if oil temp gets to 230 pull over and let cool down. My satelite office is locate 3 hours from my main office. When I go to the sat office I go through mountains hitting 4k to 5k altitude and I saw the old temp get up to 230 232 pushed through letting it cool off with the air. This was during the cooler months per say but during the summer the temp will get up to ambient 120+. I have seen the blk top get up to 140. I was wondering if the 180 thermostat worth doing. 🤔 Thanx
I have 341000 with only normal upkeep on my 5.7 hemi fuel pump,water pump,altinater and radiator the only suspension parts are left side wheel bearing and right side CV axle it's 4/4
Do you know of a way to eliminate or at least to smooth out the typical dip when switching from short to long runner on the 6.4? I own a 2019 Challenger Scatpack widebody with a tune and a 85mm throttlebody. I love that car, especially here in germany it's really something special. This thing puts a smile on my face every time.
Broken timing chain, 09 5.7 hemi. Dealer says heads have to be replaced, what if any internals could be damaged also as a result? 195k miles. Btw, they say heads have been on back order for a year.
Not sure what your question is here...yes there could be damage, or not, depending on engine rpm and load at time of failure. Minimum, bent valves, worst case your pistons are trashed as well. Need to tear it down and examine to assess damage, can't just guess over the net.
Not uncommon for the dealer to recommend full replacement of the cylinder heads, allows them to avoid any responsibility for rebuilding the heads themselves. It's quite likely that a few valves are bent, and yes, it's possible the pistons have been damaged as well.
Hey… I’ve asked before but………. I would love for you to discuss the Ecodiesel. I know you’re not a fan. Break it down. Can they be made reliable? I know we can’t legally delete them. What would you do to preserve the motor?
I bought a 200k miles 05 Hemi magnum should I change the heads now or see if the valve seats will drop I know it's been over heated a little bit ago but no problems so far
I always struggle with this question, because my usual attitude is that if it's not broke don't fix it. But, my feelings have kind of changed over the last couple years. I think it's smarter now to just change the heads and not worry about it anymore. If it's a task you feel like you can accomplish yourself, it's not that big of a deal and you can get it done for relatively cheap.
Anybody looking for Hemi parts. Modern muscle extreme is the best place for parts. I’m building my R/T for 12-1300rwhp and I buy all of my parts from them.
Im putting a rebuilt 5.7 motor in my 2006 rt charger. My recommendation i put a metal dorman dipstick tube on it and a billet aluminum dipstick handle for 50 bucks. Future problem solved.
I have a 2011 ram 1500 with the 4.7. I recently had to have the v51 reflash requires by California. Now still after 500 street miles it scans 02 not ready. Thus won't pass the inspection. No codes though.any advise. Thanks keep up the good work.
The truck engines do, the actuator is bolted to the back of the intake manifold, it's a little rectangular thing that has an electrical connector on it. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto thanks for that. I found it on my truck. Now I can prove my co-worker wrong. He thinks none of the 5.7s had it. He thinks they only came on the 6.1ltr. But he’s ring there too. Lol. ✌️
I've swapped a 2018 392 and 8hp70 into a '69 Dodge Coronet. It starts and idles fine, but it's thowing a P2008 code when key on. I've ordered a new srv actuator, but the code suggests a "intake manifold runner control circuit open bank 1" I checked the connector and harness all looks fine. Ideas? Suggestions?
when it rains it stays in first and check engine light turns on and i clear the code and it runs like normal,or if i floor it redlines and stays in that gear but they sais my electrical is ok but that its some in the transmission
how come most rebuilds you do you don't touch the camshaft? like i need to know , im rebuilding a 5.7 and rockers are solid . so i dont wanna rellace the cam if not needed. but just curious do you inspect the cam off camera before continuing ?
I've got a few different video series where I'm removing/replacing the camshaft. Check out the black chrysler 300 build playlist, and the 2003 ram 1500 playlist, as well as my 1986 C10 392 build playlist. There's a video in each of those playlists where I'm removing and inspecting the camshafts. 👍 If you've got the lifters out you can shine a light down the lifter bores and inspect the cam lobes. I would caution you though to spin over the cam 360 degrees for every lobe as you are looking at it. The lobe might look fine on the backside, but the pointy end could be damaged.
Not me going thru videos grabbing all this information due to me modding a 07 5.7 and doing the 09+ head piston and connecting rod swap with cam and torque converter and if that was complicated enough, it will all be going into a 1967 ford galaxie 😂
As is usually the case, I could be wrong about some things, let me know what I missed! Also, leave your question for the next Ask A Tech below!
Really enjoy these videos, I would ask the type of supercharger you like, the why and what you would want to do before supercharging a hemi thanks!
I have a 2011 Durango Crew with the 3.6 and RWD, I am wanting to know which would be the easier drivetrain swap, the 5.7 out of an RT Durango or the 392 from an SRT Durango. I know a lot of people will say to just buy one of the other models, but I'm more of the built not bought mentality. I already plan to buy a wrecked vehicle to pull everything from, but like I said at the beginning, I want to know which would be the easier way to go.
@@Basslightning666 a friend of mine went from a 2021 widebody Scat to a Cat...and although he loves the Cat, he misses getting better gas mileage from the Scat
@@tacticalh I recommend doing ALL of the supporting mods before thinking about the supercharger honestly
@@jn5727 May sound funny, but there's something about my RT Shaker that makes me not want to get rid of it... I feel alive when I am in it... Non enthusiasts would never understand...
I swapped a mmx ported 6.4 manifold on my 5.7. Used the mmx srv harness which made it so easy and is awesome for controlling that rpm switch point (which i discovered after dynoing that 4400-4450 was the sweet spot. Anyways, paired with a 85mm tb, afe intake, and tune I gained as much as 68ft lbs tq and 44hp in areas. Huge!
Dang! Nice results! 💪
What is mmx?
@@motkachuk1107 facts what’s a mmx @zac
@@Chosen.24 literally google mmx…….
Modern muscle extreme it's company that makes parts for hemis
Hands down, 392 is my favorite N/A engine. Finally got my 392 Challenger a year ago after driving a 345 Shaker for years. I absolutely love the big block Hemi.
Glad your enjoying the 6.4. Just FYI the 5.7 6.1 6.2 and 6.4 are all the same size block. The differences are a raised cam tunnel and strengthened block on the 6.2 and 6.4 the 6.2 is just a destroked 6.4 BGE truck block aka hellcat block. Happy hot rodding.
if I’m correct the difference between 5.7 and 6.1 is bore and the 6.2 has 6.4 bore with the 6.1/5.7 stroke
I did the 6.4 intake mod years ago! It's run with an MSD timer, easy mod! Biggest difference mod I've even done!
You are killing it with this Ask a tech serie! Love it. Thanks
Appreciate you man! 👊
The SRV controller for the 6.4 intake manifold is made by Z Automotive only sold at MMX. I used it with my 6.4 intake manifold swap. Way easier to install than the MSD switch method. Also you'll get the best results with a custom tune.
I've fitted a 6.4 inlet manifold to my 5.7 pre vvt with the mix adapter plates with the msd window switch on a very mild 5.7 and the bum dyno is a definite thumbs up for performance and ban for buck.
My 10 model has 180,500 miles on it. No oil use, no ticks from the motor, and replaced 1 leaky injector. I did put BBK shorties to solve the exhaust manifold issue.i run the shit out of it once a month. Its tuned, no cats, 2 1/2 true duel exhaust, cold air intake. These are great motors. No internal repairs or nothing and it runs like a pissed off tomcat.
Dip stick removal....screw in a heated up wood screw into the plastic. It worked for me.
I agree. Not often r u in high RPMs and whatever torque actually is I think I love it
POSITIVE AIR PRESSURE IS THE BEST!
It's no secret that the N/A hemis don't handle boost very well but lately I've been seeing some videos pop up and people talking about running their 5.7s reliably well past what people used to consider safe levels of boost and the only thing they did was open up the gap a little bit on the upper rings where you normally see the failures in the ringlands. I'd love to see you do something like that in your upcoming boosted hemi build and get your opinion on it.
That is in fact the plan my man 👍
Awesome can't wait to see it!
No motor with out ring gap and forged internals handle boost very well.
I got around 150 hp gain with the torqstorm supercharger@ 6 psi love it looks good they have chrome or black ck them out.
I actually added a remote oil filter cooler with a sandwich adapter on top of my 6.4 water to oil cooler.
There was a slight pressure drop but my oil temps and coolant temps rebound and remain about 20 degrees cooler on average even in high temps.
Great video btw
Pressure drop would have me worried with these engines as it's low to begin with for their requirements. Why not put in a lower temp thermostat ? It will lower oil temps as well by keeping the block cooler.
Appreciate the info! 👍
@@DL101ca because i already have a 180degree thermostat and hard driving in the heat i was seeing 250-270 degree oil temp spikes.
Coolant would follow suite and spike as well.
My oil pressure is always 35 at idle and 58psi max.
So no real problems with oil pressure or volume here.
@@DL101ca also a lower temp thermostat doesn't really mitigate heat like you would think.
Sure it opens sooner but that only matters at lower temps around 180 degrees. After hard driving if the block and coolant are any hotter they behave the same way.
You would do better with fan upgrades and or a better radiator.
Also in my opinion (considering my car came with the lower temp thermostat) i personally wouldn't have changed it because many of these motors run well at a higher "normal temperature" by design and can actually cause the motor to be temperamental and noisy under temp.
This keeps my coolant even and my oil temps normal. And they rebound faster after hard driving.
I have the 6.4 on my 5.7, and have the first Z Automotive SRV controller kit they sell thru MMX.. They did the Dyno testing, but it's a Z Auto product. It works fantastic,and easy to install. I ran without the short valves working for about a year, it ran great, but it is much better with that kit.
It lines up to the 5.7 bro?
@@MoparSrt702 Perfectly. I know they changed when it went from pre-eagle to Eagle, it bolted up with no issues in my 17. It's a simple swap, you need a filter setup ( the IAT boot or 6.4 CAI ) an extension for the IAT and a way to activate the runners. The Z Automotive kit works on all 11-21 Powernet, and non Powernet.
Thanks for the Info not many people are really sharing
@@MrBloodguns I am one who wants to share what I have learned, good, and bad. I love the manifold on my 300. Happy to answer anything I can.
@@SModelMafia good looking out bros🤙
Thanks for answering my question I was really leaning towards doing the 6.1 cause don't really have to do the runners just bolt it up but I do want the best performance so I'll be saving up for that 6.4 manifold 😎💯
Over the past year the 6.4 manifold prices jumped liked everything else, I can’t find them for less then about a grand, not including the controller. This changes things in my opinion. I can find hellcat superchargers for around 1500(not including the rest of the gear needed) but still it’s looking like boosting is becoming more cost effective.
I was wanting to go n/a with my bge but yeah im finding the same thing
Thanks for all the great info. I’m doing a cam and lifter swap, a Greene v2 .5 HL, and swapping to a MMX truck 6.4 intake in my 2015 Ram. This video gave me the final confirmation that I made the right choice
Great info again. It never fails I learn something with every video. Plus great background!
On my 5.7 hemi challenger I just very slightly twist the dip stick back and forth while pulling up, so far so good lol, love these videos, keep them coming 👍😁
Always a smart idea!
First, love your videos, especially the detail you go in to for us. I have a 2009 Charger R/T and have installed the 392 intake manifold and love it. With and MSD window switch, the mopar connector for the SRV actuator had it up and going in about 2 hours.
Nice work! Are you happy with the mod?
for broken oil dipstick, use the thinnest self tapping screw to bite into the plastic, get a few threads down in it, use pliers to pull on the screw and it comes right out.
Good to know!! 8:05 I was NOT ready to dig into this and swap it out.
My solution to the broken dipstick started out the same as yours, but the final step was different. I drill the small pilot hole as you did, but then threaded in a drywall screw, just a couple threads so it didn't expand the plastic. It pulled right out by hand.
I have a 2006 300C SRT8. I'm definitely keeping you on my top views!! You seem mad chill and your knowledge seems crazy 🍌 banana's not to take your advice!!
Thanks for watching Alan! 👍
Just finished a cam and lifter job thanks to your videos keep it up man! Good content.
Nice work! 💪👊
So broken dipstick removal. How I do it is slightly different. I have and old screw driver I welded a Phillips head wood screw to. I use a propane torch to heat up that screw stick it into the plastic that is still stuck in the tube and let it cool down for 5 minutes. Grab the screw driver and yank it out and the dipstick pops right out with it
I like this one 👍
My favorite Hemi channel
Appreciate it 💪
For my broken dipstick on my Chrysler 300, I used a drill and tap set for an 8-32 bolt. I drilled it and then threaded the hole with the tap and used the tap to pull the dipstick.
I bought your shirt by the way, I love the softness and quality man. Everyone always asks about it.
Regarding removing the broken dipstick, you may be able to use an easy out tool to remove the remaining broken off portion in the block. It’s worth a try… 👍
mine broke, i heated up a the first half of a drywall screw with torch held it with vice grips and screwed it in about 3 or 4 turns, let it cool and then pulled it out
@@Conky011 that will work too. 👍
When I did my cam swap in my Durango rt at 76000 miles I replaced the tensioner and the guide but not the timing chain. There was actually a tiny bit of ware on the surface of the plastic of each. I figured if anything is gonna fail in regards to the timing chain it will be the plastic parts.
Always great content! I’ve learned so much about my motor through this channel
Appreciate that Ryan! 👊
I've watched several of your videos in the last 2 days and i have to tell you thanks for taking time to share such valuable information I've learned a lot about my Challengers Hemi
I removed my broken dipstick tube with a drill like you did, but found a very sharp drywall screw could bite into the plastic and give enough purchase to pull it out easily.
The actuation occurs at 4800 RPM's, also a MSD window switch can perform the same function cheaper then the MMX solution
I put a 318 intake on my 6.4 hemi engine. It took alot of welding and hammering but oh boy it works good.
Awesome video and q/a episode buddy.great info as always. Glad ur back makn videos.
I don't blame you for going back to central Oregon, i lived in Bend years ago and had to move for work. Still miss living there....maybe when i retire.
Just wanted to comment on another slick way that i recently found to get a dipstick put was a wooden craft dowel and some hot glue on the end.... amazingly it did the trick with no shavings, as i couldnt put pressure on mine due to it going farther down out of reach.
Love this Q&A! I’ll keep watching.
My method for removing a broken dipstick is similar. The difference is I will screw in a sheet rock screw or something similar and then clamp on with some vice grips and yank.
Been waiting for your videos!!! Awesome scenery!!!
please don't stop what you are doing, thank you for all your help. i have a dumb question replaced wheel hub assembly have 2011 ram 1500 can u grease your bearings thru the abs sensor, or is separate from the sealed bearing. thank you.
8:00 never if oil change is every 5000km
Demonology found a crew that could hook up the holly dominator on his demon that allows all the functionality of the original dodge ecu, bypassing only performance items.
The 2 best intakes for best power over the full curve is the 5.7 truck intake and 6.4 truck intake. After that it’s the 6.4 car intake which is on par with the 5.7 truck intake.
I currently have a 6.1 intake manifold on my boosted 5.7. I think the 6.4 intake is definitely way to go, but I got a real good deal on a 6.1 intake. The 6.1 intake looks soo good, but I know I'm losing some HP/TQ on the table when compared to the 6.4 intake! I think I may have it ported and see if that helps 🤔...
Thanks bud, another great video. I like to watch your videos and pretend I’m going to mod up my ram truck but most likely will only fix it when necessary, except loud exhaust of course.
I installed the 6.4 hemi intake manifold on my 5.7 after I cammed it. Lost low end tq with the cam ,but gained good low end tq from the swap. Enough to not even notice the car has a cam.
I have a 2018 dodge charger randomly. I have a ticking sound coming somewhere from the passenger side. You can hear it really well by the front wheel. It does not always make the sound, and it doesn’t matter if you’re driving fast or slow. Sometimes it happens at start up most of the time a couple minutes after start up when it does and then it goes away never last for more than about 40 seconds. Dealership told me that it seems like it’s coming from the solenoid, and that there’s nothing to fix I was just trying to get a second opinion if the solenoid is known for having a ticking sound releasing pressure or some thing and if that’s considered normal and something that’s OK and doesn’t need to be fixed.
2007 ram 3.7, 42rle. I have no trans codes but it slips like crazy here and there. Depends how you drive in traffic and under load. Ive put on 75,000 miles since it was at 100,000. Always done it. Never changed the filter or fluid either...
I did a 6.1 intake on my 2010, works great. Running headers and a Jay green custom tune
2012 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 4x4
Shutting off if put in reverse after engine warms up idle jumps from 400 to 1000 a lot, so I cleaned the throttle body and still stalls
The timing chain tensioner failed on my 5.7 at 246k miles. It jumped time and destroyed my engine, and I had to buy a rebuild replacement. So yeah, change the timing chain tensioner, chain, and gears before 240k miles to be safe.
We have a 2012 Chrysler 300 C w a 5.7 with about 50000 miles and I'm absolutely in love w it! But my question is that we've been on 3 road trips, other then that it's been a lot of city driving! Our last trip was to Jacksonville Florida, and I noticed as I was reaching between the speeds of 75 and 80 I can hear the engine hum inside the car! I looked at my room gauge and I was doing about 2000 rpms at 78 mph. Now I have a 5 speed automatic! And it's the first time I feel this happening! Would this be a normal operation since it's a Hemi? Thank you.
@rgxx. I have 2011 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi. My engine has 266,000 miles and so far I don't have any issues with my timing chain. (Now that I've said this, it will start having issues....lol) However it does have the infamous Hemi lifter tick.
When I tear it down to do the cam and lifters, obviously I will go ahead and do a timing chain and gear set swap, just since I'll already have it apart, I might as well do it. The set is only like $175 on RockAuto. And also while I have it apart, I'm going to do the oil pump swap to a Hellcat oil pump which run about $190 on RockAuto.
am a mechanic from Russia and I will tell you my opinion, Hemi has a short chain and therefore it lasts forever. My mileage is 650 and the chain is the same as new.
Always informative. Great content. Looking for low end torque for my 2012 Ram 1500 towing. Nothing more discouraging than going up an incline and the trans downshifts into 4th and sometimes 3rd. I don't need top end speed just low end grunt and go. I'm look for a truck 392 intake.
I would be very interested in those results!
6.4L intake is a great an easy mod sir; the guys in my groups with the 5.7’s are making around 25hp and 20Ib’s of torque. You want to get 1 3/4 Longtubes to go with it. These two mods will put your truck around 450 crank horsepower with lots of low end.
Got to find one first. Like hens teeth. Here in NC.
You’re better off getting shorty headers with a tune for low end torque if you don’t have that yet. If you do then sure the 392 intake will help as well
@@Mrhandyhitman. According to to multiple dyno studies and runs I’ve seen you will get more torque and horsepower everywhere under the curve with Long tubes. However, the Long tubes are expensive, and you can make a little extra power with the factory scat pack and Hellcat shorties over the factory truck logs. Richard Holdener Has done a lot of research on longtubes/ manifolds, cams, all forms of boost, and everything else engine wise.
Im from yakima, wenatchee & tri-ciites. Love the scenery; I know it well‼️ At least you are in eastern Oregon.
You must be standing on the edge of the Columbia Gorge. Whereabouts is this?
I run tugboats on the Lower Columbia, but I'm not so familiar with the upper.
And thanks for all the good info - recently got a 2012 Jeep w/ hemi and knew nothing about the motor. Thanks to you, now I do...
Thanks! Actually this is at a lake called Billy Chinook which is in Central Oregon. But the Gorge is beautiful as well, I'm up there a lot due to family in the area.
How about a stripped out oil pan drain plug stripped out to the max is round no wrench or vice grip will bite the guy before used an impact on it thinking about welding a boxed end wrench over the bolt a fill with weld this fastner is on there. Tried easy outs and most hope and pray methods.
I've had my 2008 Ram 4x4 since it was one-year-old. Since the day that I bought it I have been using full synthetic oil. Is there any reason to change to a high mileage oil? The hammy has 157000 miles on it and still runs great
If it isn't broke, don't fix it. 👍
It's not a truck but i have a 2012 Civic Si with a K24Z7 engine. It's tuned, has about 200whp and i ran it from day 1 using AMSoil SS, Redline oil or Pennzoil Platinum Ultra. 470k km later, it still runs like a champ, doesn't burn oil and doesn't leak oil. I never used High Milleage Oils in it and when i changed the Clutch at about 400k, i changed the rear crank seal at it was as soft as the Brand New OE one that went in it's place. I'd say, use quality synthetic oil of your liking and don't extend the intervals too much!
I wanted to change my intake on my
06 Charger R/T but I have the EGR
valve and sure as heck that PCM
would set a code if I removed it!!
🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
I added a torqstorm supercharger on my 06 daytona rt a few other mods as well curious on the holley sniper intake. Can beat the price on a torqstorm compared to others very well made kit 06s have the small port heads a swap is in the mix after i choose the😮 intake. Great thread!
2012 ram 5.7
Bought with cam/lifter failure
Replaced with mds delete cam and lifters
Now getting a random misfire cylinder 6 misfire but runs good
Turned off mds with tuner
Thanks Sky for your thoughts on my question. I think you're definitely right, 20 years ago people would think we were mad if we'd say GM and Ford both worked on a transmission together, Toyota and Subaru worked on an entire car together and Dodge and ZF worked on their own transmissions together. One of the things I really liked about the Hemi is that it seems like if you have a 10, 13 and 15mm socket, you can pretty much rebuild the entire engine.
I don't recommend it if you can avoid it, but try working on the eco-diesel engine 😄 It's made by VM diesel which is a company that Fiat owns, and that thing is the most complex disaster you've ever seen!
@@ReignitedAuto I'll see if I can dig up a disassembly video from "I do Cars", I'll let him do the work for me :)
Hey Sky, another great video! Just as a follow up to the last question and regarding swaps, I just posted a video on my channel about wiring the factory PCM so people can get an idea of what is involved vs the Holley Terminator. Oh and as far as drilling the dipstick, I find putting grease on the drill bit helps to keep the shavings out of the tube...also I have put a wood screw in to have something to yank on. Great content as always!
I'm putting that video on my watch later playlist right now! 👍
I have an 07 non vvt 5.7. I love it because a blind man could work on it. Simplicity
whats your thoughts on Vortech/Procharger superchargers and their kits? They look like a much more economical and beginner friendly bolt-on option for the 06 Hemis. Is it worth the price tag at around 9 grand, or is it better to go with a traditional super charger for closer to 12k and have a tech install it? Prices are in Canadian, market is kind of bonkers up here for car parts.
Torqstorm supercharger can be added for 4k.
Hi bud, im sure u are swamped by questions but ill try anyway! 03 2500 5.7 - reringed it 6 yrs ago when i traded it, also new bearings and timing set.. no CEL no codes, starts perfectly drives and passes smog - i get 8mpg city and 11 highway - it really lacks low end!Ive been battling this for the past 2 years- took it to AAMCO for a test drive and the guy was like heck yeah, sth is def wrong here. I recently dropped 4.56 gears, b4 that cat, muffler, injectors, coils, k&n intake, ground straps, confirmed fuel psi, new sensors, i replaced the TC 2 years back, and still its driving like a turd at lower rpms until i get on it she FINALLY wakes up! at idle my TPS randomly jumps all over the place, the AAMCO guy said that was wrong and the 545RFE solenoids will go haywire with a jumpy tps signal. I have tested the APPS unit and its passing so im considering pinning it directly to the ECM (which I have also swapped!!!) What are your thoughts? truck has 120k miles and is in very good shape otherwise.. i really want to keep it but im bleeding ont his thing. A friend took me in his 04 2500 for a test and blew me away with the power!!! mine drives like a v6 or worse! please please help me!
I chose the 6.1 intake due to the fact I’m running boost and didn’t want a plastic intake manifold
So I bought a 2020 Ram1500 5.7 2wd non E torque. Everytime I start thinking about doing engine mods, I think to myself, why not just get a junkyard 6.4 SRT motor and tranny with the ECM and plugs and just tear it down and replace the pistons for a forced induction. Go through the rest of the motor to freshen anything else up that needs it and put that into the ram. I’m looking for big HP but still able to sit in traffic with the air on.
2006 Jeep Commander Hemi, Limp Mode. changed the solenoid and the front and back shifter sensor. Also the TIPM. Any suggestions? Thanks, Mar.
Dip stick situation just blow compressed air thru the crank case and it poppes right out
Beautiful scenery behind you brother
Enjoyed this episode. Looking forward to the forced induction 5.7. I have both a 2006 5.7 300C and a 2016 6.4 300C SRT here in Australia. The 6.4 with 470HP absolutely hammers but there is something just soo sweet about the 5.7. Mine has over 200000 miles on it and a timing chain rattle but otherwise still uses no oil and runs sweet.
I picked up a 06 1500 with the 5.7... absolutely love it.. and it has atleast 240k mies on it and still running strong... I chenge the oil every 3k miles... oil filter every oil change....doesn't burn oil... and is used daily.... I've read comments from others that the 5.7 can last past 500k miles if taking care of right... only thing i don't like is the mds system....you buy a truck not worrying about how much gas you use...so adding the mds to the trucks was imo extremely stupid on the designers part....I make sure to turn that mds off while town driving... and turn it on when on the open road running at 55 mph or more.
I was looking through your videos and I didn't see a vid in ref to this.
My question is this. On the owners manual says if oil temp gets to 230 pull over and let cool down.
My satelite office is locate 3 hours from my main office. When I go to the sat office I go through mountains hitting 4k to 5k altitude and I saw the old temp get up to 230 232 pushed through letting it cool off with the air. This was during the cooler months per say but during the summer the temp will get up to ambient 120+. I have seen the blk top get up to 140.
I was wondering if the 180 thermostat worth doing. 🤔
Thanx
I have 341000 with only normal upkeep on my 5.7 hemi fuel pump,water pump,altinater and radiator the only suspension parts are left side wheel bearing and right side CV axle it's 4/4
More of these videos please, so valuable
A 6.4L variable runner intake is your best setup for a daily driver.
Do you know of a way to eliminate or at least to smooth out the typical dip when switching from short to long runner on the 6.4? I own a 2019 Challenger Scatpack widebody with a tune and a 85mm throttlebody. I love that car, especially here in germany it's really something special. This thing puts a smile on my face every time.
Broken timing chain, 09 5.7 hemi. Dealer says heads have to be replaced, what if any internals could be damaged also as a result? 195k miles. Btw, they say heads have been on back order for a year.
Not sure what your question is here...yes there could be damage, or not, depending on engine rpm and load at time of failure. Minimum, bent valves, worst case your pistons are trashed as well. Need to tear it down and examine to assess damage, can't just guess over the net.
Not uncommon for the dealer to recommend full replacement of the cylinder heads, allows them to avoid any responsibility for rebuilding the heads themselves. It's quite likely that a few valves are bent, and yes, it's possible the pistons have been damaged as well.
Thanks, appreciate your knowledge and sharing it with us.
Love the channel and I just liked and subscribed!
I really dig your videos and experience I am going to do a cam and lifter upgrade on my 14 express using the same you used on the red challenger.
and what are all the things i should do to make it last other than changing out the vale seats id like to have the car for as long as possible
Hey… I’ve asked before but………. I would love for you to discuss the Ecodiesel.
I know you’re not a fan.
Break it down. Can they be made reliable? I know we can’t legally delete them.
What would you do to preserve the motor?
I have gotten more requests for this, I'll cover it in the next ask a tech 👍
I would dunk it in bacon grease, to preserve the motor that is. It is an Italian design...😜
I bought a 200k miles 05 Hemi magnum should I change the heads now or see if the valve seats will drop I know it's been over heated a little bit ago but no problems so far
I always struggle with this question, because my usual attitude is that if it's not broke don't fix it. But, my feelings have kind of changed over the last couple years. I think it's smarter now to just change the heads and not worry about it anymore. If it's a task you feel like you can accomplish yourself, it's not that big of a deal and you can get it done for relatively cheap.
First I’m lucky to find your channel, 2nd would this work with 2009 5.7 Hemi Durango? As you’ve mention Ram do have it.
The Durango is already equipped with the SRV as well. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto thank you, you enlightened me a lot with your direct to the point videos, so will do that upgrade. Along with hellcat oil bump.
Anybody looking for Hemi parts. Modern muscle extreme is the best place for parts. I’m building my R/T for 12-1300rwhp and I buy all of my parts from them.
Very subtle...very very subtle. You got any shamwows or slapchops for sale ?
Im putting a rebuilt 5.7 motor in my 2006 rt charger. My recommendation i put a metal dorman dipstick tube on it and a billet aluminum dipstick handle for 50 bucks. Future problem solved.
damn right on time ,just wondering which to pick for daily drive .Which engine do u recommend 5.7 or 6.4 for used car (60 k miles )
Gotta admit, I really like driving the 6.4 versions, they are a noticeable difference in power.
I owned all three and go with the 6.4
I have a 2011 ram 1500 with the 4.7. I recently had to have the v51 reflash requires by California. Now still after 500 street miles it scans 02 not ready. Thus won't pass the inspection. No codes though.any advise. Thanks keep up the good work.
Just subscribed learned a lot from this channel im a big 5.7 hemi fan I have 06 Dodge Charger and 300c and 03 ram 5.7
Did the 5.7 come with active intake manifold? If so, how can you tell by looking at it. I’ve heard the 5.7 did come with it but how can you tell??
The truck engines do, the actuator is bolted to the back of the intake manifold, it's a little rectangular thing that has an electrical connector on it. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto thanks for that. I found it on my truck. Now I can prove my co-worker wrong. He thinks none of the 5.7s had it. He thinks they only came on the 6.1ltr. But he’s ring there too. Lol. ✌️
I've swapped a 2018 392 and 8hp70 into a '69 Dodge Coronet. It starts and idles fine, but it's thowing a P2008 code when key on. I've ordered a new srv actuator, but the code suggests a "intake manifold runner control circuit open bank 1" I checked the connector and harness all looks fine. Ideas? Suggestions?
when it rains it stays in first and check engine light turns on and i clear the code and it runs like normal,or if i floor it redlines and stays in that gear but they sais my electrical is ok but that its some in the transmission
Great Video!!! That background is an amazing scene!!! Where is that?
In a small town in central Oregon called Madras 👍
Best performance camshaft for 2004 5.7 hemi 3rd gen , turbo & headers ….
I would love to know you take on the Pulsar inline tuner for the 2019+ hemi?
how come most rebuilds you do you don't touch the camshaft? like i need to know , im rebuilding a 5.7 and rockers are solid . so i dont wanna rellace the cam if not needed. but just curious do you inspect the cam off camera before continuing ?
I've got a few different video series where I'm removing/replacing the camshaft. Check out the black chrysler 300 build playlist, and the 2003 ram 1500 playlist, as well as my 1986 C10 392 build playlist. There's a video in each of those playlists where I'm removing and inspecting the camshafts. 👍
If you've got the lifters out you can shine a light down the lifter bores and inspect the cam lobes. I would caution you though to spin over the cam 360 degrees for every lobe as you are looking at it. The lobe might look fine on the backside, but the pointy end could be damaged.
The dip stick issue - heat a metal coat hanger up, stick it down tube to plastic n let cool. Pull it out.
Not me going thru videos grabbing all this information due to me modding a 07 5.7 and doing the 09+ head piston and connecting rod swap with cam and torque converter and if that was complicated enough, it will all be going into a 1967 ford galaxie 😂