Thanks for this. Bit late to the show here; just got my TS-PC. am getting a min force of -0.5. Am running it at 100% but may tuen it down, will see how I get on, great for some cars/tracks, a bit heavy for others. Thanks again.
I started sim racing with a t150 (plastic gas break pedals)+ DIY cockpit. I then bought a wheel stand and used a lawn chair for a seat. (this set up worked but had so much flex+movement). Then I bought TM T-LCM pedals(game changer for my consistency) Then I got a T300 base with a open wheel rim, unreal how much better that was compared to the T150. I had this set up for 4 years. Then I knew I loved sim racing and decided to spend the money do do it right. I saved up and bought this set up. --Trak Racer T80 cockpit with inverted pedal platform for formula/ gt style pedals.. --Trak Racer recliner seat --Azus 32 curved monitor --New gaming PC build that runs at 232 fps no problem --Fanatec DD pro bundle 8nm --Fanatec inverted V3 pedals, with break damper already mounted -- I still have the Break upgrade kit and Throttle Damper in the box because the pedals are just amazing out of the box. Compared to my old set up I honestly have a hard time even trying to do so. I would say the old set up was equivalent to 20% of the feeling my new set up has. Night and day difference. I feel every thing with this set up. If I crash it was due to driver error not lack of response or feeling transmitted from the equipment. So if your serious about doing this for the long run I can only tell you that yes it's expensive but it is worth is. I would recommend a dedicated cockpit first, then PC, Brake set, DD wheel base. I will run the same times lap after lap. I am just 2 months in and I have 3.66 saftey rating and a 1333 iRating ATM C license on Ovals, I have my D license for Road, and about to get my D license for dirt. 2 wins one a C truck series points race , and 1 win on Dirt. My setup is why I am able to run the way I do. I get the exact same.feed back every time and my muscle memory is always the same. .
The wheel force needs to be set at what your base can actually put out in Nm . It is not for guessing or changing. For example the fanatec v2.5 has a Nm output of 8 so that should be set to 8 .
@@vrandomserious no you have the wheel base at 100% you have the Nm setting on iRacing options menu set to 8Nm and then turn the force feed back down in game
Thank you for this. I was given some bad advice during a C street stock race where they were all in agreement to turn down the ffb on dirt so that’s how I’ve been running the last 6 months. I did what you suggested, and while I’m not really faster I do have a much better feel for the car. Should help me immensely as I start delving into actually making setup adjustments and not just running the iracing sets. Thanks again.
Thank you much, that auto trick and setting it per car, made so much difference. Luckily I'm only a month in because I literally feel like I'm starting over but now I can actually feel what the car is doing.
Hi, big thx for the guide, i'm one of noobs in racing, and new settings helps me a lot, i beat my record for -0.55 after use auto button, then i do some more laps and auto button signals me one more time and add strenght from 18 to 24, and after some laps i beat record one more time for -0.77. Specially what i can say, now i can feel if i drive smooth or not, before ffb setting with ur guide, i can't feel that with my old used g27. Thx again.
the reality is u rather need good pedals than wheel. I gained time and consistency just by changing t3pa pedals to t-lcm with load cell. I still drive on t150
This is correct in the most part. However the wheel force in Newton Meters isnt really something to 'play about with'. This should be set to the maximum force that you wheel can be output and is a factual number that can be found in the documentation for the wheel.
Nevets you are correct, I just felt the language of ‘I like it to be at 5’ makes it sound like its user preference. It isnt. Im not trying to dig him out for being ‘wrong’, just trying to help people get this right!
I have a pxn v900. I’m able to race with it but I really struggle with the ump modified, I’m thinking maybe I went a little to cheap. Have you tried one of these wheels, if so how do you feel about them?
Two issues. Getting the wheel to exactly 0 was all but impossible. The slightest movement if my MOZA 9 resulted in huge changes in the position. Literally a nanometer would result in the position racing as much as 10 “points(?)” either way. Literally, if i held my breath a room away the “Position” would still be wandering slightly. Second issue - choosing “Min Force” instantly changed to “Disabled”, with no automatic calculations occurring.
Thank You For more great content been wanting this..I have looked for the IRacing wheel check utility D/L but not sure exactly were that is. i checked google but unsure, couldn't find it .Cant you put a link to it here?Thanks
when I go into the wheelsetup from the link provided it sees my Logitech G920 but the X and Y have no value. I've tried resetting. I've tried unplugging my wheel and stuff twice and still no go. Any thoughts?
I'm trying to do the linear force test to create a lut file to use my g29 in assetto corsa, but it does not work the wheel does not respond and there is no movevment. I tried rebooting the computer and redownloading the logitech gaming software but none of them worked. Can you help me out please?
T&I35 feels fine, but want to make sure it’s not too high and causes damage. Also, want the most realistic settings, but I don’t have a reference. I can put it at a lot of different strengths and they all feel fine to me
I have a g29 and for some reason when in iracing I don't get any force feedback. As soon as I leave iracing the wheels force turns on, or the force is there. I have the latest drivers for the the wheel from logitech. any advice?
I don't have a G29 and can't help too much, but make sure you have done the wheel calibration when you get on track. Also, in the settings, make sure the tick box for "Enable Force Feedback" is checked. My guess is there's something you're missing in the iRacing settings if it works elsewhere.
that's a higher-end wheel, so the minimum force could be very small because it has it already built into the force feedback. you can play around with your settings, try 2-3% and see how it feels, but min force is usually to help lower-end wheels feel better. So you should be good
Brian Boughter when I clicked the link it automatically sent me to the last page in the thread I think. You have to go to the first page and you will see the link there.
@@TommyBrandon so i tried this program and i cant control the car on these settings. How on earth do you run 900 and ff at say 10 or 13 ? My wheel was shaking going down the straight and its so sensitive you cant control the car ? Very frustrating !
You wont use all 900 or 1080 degrees of rotation, but the sensitivity and calibration are based off the range of your wheel. So if the correct number isnt put in the wheel can act really twitchy or slow to respond.
@@TommyBrandon yea i know tha but on my software i cant to get all rotation...the limit is 900 and my wheel have 1080..my question is how i will get all rotation from software..whene i turn the wheel and i turn 900 degreese i turn more the wheele and the turning is 180 degreese left..but the game not respond its becasue i was try to calibrate the whhele but i fail..180 degreese goin for free
HeyT&i35 tried it now serveral times with wheel check and he always tell me "Your maximum value for steering FFBBaaseOffset is - 0.0%(-1) when i use 100% in Thrustmaster Windows Panel otherwise when im setting the overall strenght in the TM Panel to 75 % it tells me the same ... :( any tipps for me to solve the problem cause the main reason is ... my FFB feels generally to strong ... and when im set it ingame to 8,5 - 15 Strenght it feels like nothing... in the other hand when im going about 20 it feels like i have to pull a fcking Ship with my bare hands lol ty :)
So i wouldnt worry about anything the wheel check says at this point. Uninstall and then reinstall the thrustmaster software. Use thrustmaters default settings. Then restart your pc and then go into iracing. Then recalibrate your wheel and pedals, and then reset the strength settings in iracing. After that, go test and see how it feels.
Here's the download link for the wheel check utility. drive.google.com/file/d/1KIFeY9cASThVpuvLQ6uDYZOfye-k1gWl/view?usp=sharing
I installed this but it doesn't show me the position numbers on the top any tips
@@rosskeiser6363 just center the wheel by your eye and run the test.
It doesn’t do anything when I click min force
Thanks for this. Bit late to the show here; just got my TS-PC. am getting a min force of -0.5. Am running it at 100% but may tuen it down, will see how I get on, great for some cars/tracks, a bit heavy for others. Thanks again.
I've been racing controller for almost a year an won a bunch of races recently bought my wheel an boy it's like a new world
Same
Did it. I’ve been racing 4 weeks with a G29, struggled, WoW what a difference. Thank you Sir.
I started sim racing with a t150 (plastic gas break pedals)+ DIY cockpit.
I then bought a wheel stand and used a lawn chair for a seat. (this set up worked but had so much flex+movement).
Then I bought TM T-LCM pedals(game changer for my consistency)
Then I got a T300 base with a open wheel rim, unreal how much better that was compared to the T150.
I had this set up for 4 years.
Then I knew I loved sim racing and decided to spend the money do do it right.
I saved up and bought this set up.
--Trak Racer T80 cockpit with inverted pedal platform for formula/ gt style pedals..
--Trak Racer recliner seat
--Azus 32 curved monitor
--New gaming PC build that runs at 232 fps no problem
--Fanatec DD pro bundle 8nm
--Fanatec inverted V3 pedals, with break damper already mounted
-- I still have the Break upgrade kit and Throttle Damper in the box because the pedals are just amazing out of the box.
Compared to my old set up I honestly have a hard time even trying to do so.
I would say the old set up was equivalent to 20% of the feeling my new set up has.
Night and day difference. I feel every thing with this set up.
If I crash it was due to driver error not lack of response or feeling transmitted from the equipment.
So if your serious about doing this for the long run I can only tell you that yes it's expensive but it is worth is.
I would recommend a dedicated cockpit first, then PC, Brake set, DD wheel base.
I will run the same times lap after lap.
I am just 2 months in and I have 3.66 saftey rating and a 1333 iRating ATM C license on Ovals, I have my D license for Road, and about to get my D license for dirt.
2 wins one a C truck series points race , and 1 win on Dirt.
My setup is why I am able to run the way I do. I get the exact same.feed back every time and my muscle memory is always the same.
.
The wheel force needs to be set at what your base can actually put out in Nm . It is not for guessing or changing. For example the fanatec v2.5 has a Nm output of 8 so that should be set to 8 .
That also means you would need to have the wheel-setting at 100% right? Or if you had it at 50% you would use 4Nm there
@@vrandomserious no you have the wheel base at 100% you have the Nm setting on iRacing options menu set to 8Nm and then turn the force feed back down in game
Thank you for this. I was given some bad advice during a C street stock race where they were all in agreement to turn down the ffb on dirt so that’s how I’ve been running the last 6 months. I did what you suggested, and while I’m not really faster I do have a much better feel for the car. Should help me immensely as I start delving into actually making setup adjustments and not just running the iracing sets. Thanks again.
My man, found this video right after purchasing the sprint cars. Thanks for the info!
Thank you much, that auto trick and setting it per car, made so much difference. Luckily I'm only a month in because I literally feel like I'm starting over but now I can actually feel what the car is doing.
Hi, big thx for the guide, i'm one of noobs in racing, and new settings helps me a lot, i beat my record for -0.55 after use auto button, then i do some more laps and auto button signals me one more time and add strenght from 18 to 24, and after some laps i beat record one more time for -0.77. Specially what i can say, now i can feel if i drive smooth or not, before ffb setting with ur guide, i can't feel that with my old used g27. Thx again.
You're very welcome. I'm glad to hear it has helped you so much.
the reality is u rather need good pedals than wheel. I gained time and consistency just by changing t3pa pedals to t-lcm with load cell. I still drive on t150
This is correct in the most part. However the wheel force in Newton Meters isnt really something to 'play about with'. This should be set to the maximum force that you wheel can be output and is a factual number that can be found in the documentation for the wheel.
To be fair, he did say check with your manufacturer.
Nevets you are correct, I just felt the language of ‘I like it to be at 5’ makes it sound like its user preference. It isnt. Im not trying to dig him out for being ‘wrong’, just trying to help people get this right!
@@betts1411 it also looks like the Thrustmaster TMX max torque is 2.0nm according to the manufacturer
I ended up at the same setting i had it at for FFB and Force. Thanks
I bought a brand new G920 and my SteeringFFBBaseoffset is 0.5 each time during the force feedback test. Is that normal for a new wheel?
i beat my pb 3 laps in a row.. thanks for this
Thank you..been racing for 2nites wondering wtf is wrong lol..
Excellent advice mate!
took me forever to find thanks for the link
Holy....... you probably just solved all my problems!
how do you get your position to 0? mine says X and Y
love my csl elite.. have had it over 2 years... only problems are with the throttle sensor..
Yeah i need to upgrade my wheel next. The csl is on my radar.
I can't enable force feedback with my csl elite. Any tips?
@@ignatiusnoirant8174 im sorry i dont. Ive never used fanatec before, I'd try reaching out to there support. Sorry i cant be of more help.
@@TommyBrandon thanks for the reply 😊
@@ignatiusnoirant8174 your welcome
I have a pxn v900. I’m able to race with it but I really struggle with the ump modified, I’m thinking maybe I went a little to cheap. Have you tried one of these wheels, if so how do you feel about them?
i tried doing the mx-5 cup for the first time, and I just kept blowing my tyres and engine on 1 lap, im not sure why
New wheel didnt move off 0..would that be right still?
Help! for some reason i cant find a link on Google to download the iracing wheel untility program. can anyone point me into the right direction?
are u going to do classes for late models and umps sometime to just wondering and keep up the awesome work thank u for all these tips and tricks
yes i am, but it won't be for at least 3 months.
Two issues. Getting the wheel to exactly 0 was all but impossible. The slightest movement if my MOZA 9 resulted in huge changes in the position. Literally a nanometer would result in the position racing as much as 10 “points(?)” either way. Literally, if i held my breath a room away the “Position” would still be wandering slightly.
Second issue - choosing “Min Force” instantly changed to “Disabled”, with no automatic calculations occurring.
does this calibrate the wheel for other games or only iRacing?
Im an audio guy.. use a de-esser in ur vids. Would make listening much more enjoyable
I'm trying to do the same with a friend's steering wheel but I'm not getting it, when I get to take min force nothing happens
Thank You For more great content been wanting this..I have looked for the IRacing wheel check utility D/L but not sure exactly were that is. i checked google but unsure, couldn't find it .Cant you put a link to it here?Thanks
go to this link: members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/575/1473510.page#4672038
when I go into the wheelsetup from the link provided it sees my Logitech G920 but the X and Y have no value. I've tried resetting. I've tried unplugging my wheel and stuff twice and still no go. Any thoughts?
Wayward Winchester uses the same intro music!!
yeah I was afraid of that. especially since I got it free from youtube.
I'm trying to do the linear force test to create a lut file to use my g29 in assetto corsa, but it does not work the wheel does not respond and there is no movevment. I tried rebooting the computer and redownloading the logitech gaming software but none of them worked. Can you help me out please?
setting tmx to 5 nm thats gonna ruin it over time max force of a tmx/t150 is about 2nm tx/t300 about 3,2nm
Great info. My fanatec V2.5 come out @ .5 for the min kinda low anyone else with the low of a number?
I got 1
with a driving force GT - an ancient artifact, I know - I get 0 as a min force when using the utility; am i doing something wrong?
And I'm loving your videos, they are very much appreciated. Setup a tip jar somewhere.
@@brandothecat thanks for the comment! Its much appreciated
@@brandothecat i have the same wheel and the same issue. Did you find a solution?
@@JamesEtc3417 i end up setting manually, around 9 for asphalt and 4.5 for dirt
My t00 recommends 26 for strength. Did it several times and was between 26-28. Feels fine to me, but I have no reference. Keep this value or go lower?
If thats what it says and it feels good, then use it
T&I35 feels fine, but want to make sure it’s not too high and causes damage. Also, want the most realistic settings, but I don’t have a reference. I can put it at a lot of different strengths and they all feel fine to me
What wheel is it again?
T&I35 Thrustmaster t300
Oh thats way to much. I have a t300. Put your strength between 7 to 12, your min force at 3%. Then you'll be good
Do you do anything with the damping adjustment?
I put it at 10% sometimes if the track is really slick and I'm running a non-wing dirt car.
I googled it and can’t find where to download it.
thank you
Your welcome
I have a g29 and for some reason when in iracing I don't get any force feedback. As soon as I leave iracing the wheels force turns on, or the force is there. I have the latest drivers for the the wheel from logitech. any advice?
I don't have a G29 and can't help too much, but make sure you have done the wheel calibration when you get on track. Also, in the settings, make sure the tick box for "Enable Force Feedback" is checked. My guess is there's something you're missing in the iRacing settings if it works elsewhere.
u gotta make sure custom controls is checked
mine says 0.5-1.5? Am i looking for a specific number or? Im confused
Do you do this for asphalt cars too??
Not yet.
But it should help right??
can not find the force feedback utility. could you please share a link to the download
Heres the link. drive.google.com/file/d/1KIFeY9cASThVpuvLQ6uDYZOfye-k1gWl/view?usp=drivesdk
i don’t even have those little numbers beside it so i can’t tell what i’m doing
I do the test but a negative figure appears for min force. What does that mean?
then you must not need any minimum force
Can you add the download link to the Force feedback link, please and thanks
does it still work?
Running a ts pc but keep getting a minimum force of 0.5? Does that sound accurate?
that's a higher-end wheel, so the minimum force could be very small because it has it already built into the force feedback. you can play around with your settings, try 2-3% and see how it feels, but min force is usually to help lower-end wheels feel better. So you should be good
im useing a t500 and it says the same,i set it to min force to 2 and it feels good.
Yes. Thats a high end wheel. Min force is really for low end wheels that dont show detail.
Awsome m8 been looking for ages on how to fix the FFB in Iracing. Made a huge diffrence in feel lol now i have grip.
I don’t no how to set up my tmx thrust master onto iracing need help don’t no how to get it to work
When I click on the link for the tool it opens up a word document in some weird language. Not working for me.
Nevermind. I’m dumb lol
@@thatgsxrguy as long as you got it figured out. hope it helps
@@thatgsxrguy how did you get it to work? I'm having the same problem
Brian Boughter when I clicked the link it automatically sent me to the last page in the thread I think. You have to go to the first page and you will see the link there.
@@thatgsxrguy Thanks!
isnt the FF subjective ? Just because the program tells you to run a certain FF . What about if your not comfy with that setting ?
Absolutely, you can change it ti what u want.
@@TommyBrandon Thank you T Im struggling to get things setup .
No prob
@@TommyBrandon so i tried this program and i cant control the car on these settings. How on earth do you run 900 and ff at say 10 or 13 ? My wheel was shaking going down the straight and its so sensitive you cant control the car ? Very frustrating !
What wheel do u have?
Link takes me to iracing forums and link in forums gives me computer gibberish. Do I possibly need to open link in forums another way?
you can download it from me. just click the link below.
drive.google.com/file/d/1KIFeY9cASThVpuvLQ6uDYZOfye-k1gWl/view?usp=sharing
@@TommyBrandon Nice thanks. That tool is IMPOSSIBLE to find otherwise.
why can't I find this wheel check app I'm looking everywhere is it not available anymore
Orangannator mrorange I can help. Do you have an email address?
@@UnhingedCommonSense superbikejunction@gmail.com
Darrick Cutway can you send that to me also? Trey5944@yahoo.com.sg
@@UnhingedCommonSense can you send me the program aswell please yabbledabbledo@yahoo.com.au thanks mate
I also couldn't find the iracing wheel check?
here's the link: hope it helps members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/575/1473510.page#4672038
ugh, why isnt this in iracing already? this didnt work, now my force is locked at 0 and i cant move the slider....
nevermind its just because my irffb app is fucky thanks for the vid
how i will got all degreese from the wheel?? i mean i see how you have 900..the wheel have 1080 how i will use all rotation??
You wont use all 900 or 1080 degrees of rotation, but the sensitivity and calibration are based off the range of your wheel. So if the correct number isnt put in the wheel can act really twitchy or slow to respond.
@@TommyBrandon yea i know tha but on my software i cant to get all rotation...the limit is 900 and my wheel have 1080..my question is how i will get all rotation from software..whene i turn the wheel and i turn 900 degreese i turn more the wheele and the turning is 180 degreese left..but the game not respond its becasue i was try to calibrate the whhele but i fail..180 degreese goin for free
What software is limiting it to 900?
@@TommyBrandon the thrustmaster tmx..
@@91ΛιακοΣπαρτη91 if you have a thrustmaster tmx, then your wheel is only a 900 degree wheel. Thats the wheel i have
When I do this, my result comes back 1% or less than 1%. What am I doing wrong?
Same result months later.... what am I missing???
HeyT&i35 tried it now serveral times with wheel check and he always tell me "Your maximum value for steering FFBBaaseOffset is - 0.0%(-1) when i use 100% in Thrustmaster Windows Panel
otherwise when im setting the overall strenght in the TM Panel to 75 % it tells me the same ... :(
any tipps for me to solve the problem cause the main reason is ... my FFB feels generally to strong ... and when im set it ingame to 8,5 - 15 Strenght it feels like nothing...
in the other hand when im going about 20 it feels like i have to pull a fcking Ship with my bare hands lol
ty :)
What kind of wheel do u have?
Did you figure this out? I’m also getting same results with fanatic wheelbase club sport
So i wouldnt worry about anything the wheel check says at this point.
Uninstall and then reinstall the thrustmaster software. Use thrustmaters default settings.
Then restart your pc and then go into iracing. Then recalibrate your wheel and pedals, and then reset the strength settings in iracing.
After that, go test and see how it feels.
@@patrickfitzgerald7927 Uninstall and reinstall your software. Then reset all the settings in iracing and test it out.
The iracing wheel check utility doesn't work anymore.
My T300 gets 0.0% every time, but if i do step log 2 im getting 12-14, strange..?
Run like 4 or 5%. Try that and see how it feels.
Why are my cars so damn loose?
lul why is my Min force 8%. That normal for a G920? Wheel Force is 2.2nm. Odd.
Yes thats pretty typical for that wheel.
@@TommyBrandon That's good news I guess!
8% aint bad. My tmx was like 16%
iR, is that mess still around?
Mine keeps showing 1% min force.
What kind of wheel do u have
if you have a good wheel (t300, t500, fanatec, etc.) the min force will be very small
T300 RS with 13” Sparco wheel
Your good. 1% is what it should be.
T&I35 do you ever run the step log 2 test?
I have never seen such a convoluted mess for FFB settings! Thrustmaster could learn many things from Fanatec software.
@@dylan538 Sorry but I like realism and iR does not have that imo. rF2 is my sim of choice. Tried iR twice and was shocked by it. Cheers
You should change your max count to 200 it's more accurate.
i will try that out. thanks
my force feedback is not working. fuck i hate this shit
What kind of wheel do u have?
T&I35 g920
Download the software from logitech for your wheel and then in iracing put your settings at 8 strength and 12% min force.
I don't have a logitech wheel, but you should be able to download the software from this link. support.logi.com/hc/en-us/articles/360024322833
T&I35 thanks. I fixed the force feedback now I got to figure out if the steering is wired or if I’m just trash.
Jesus christ. Talk about never getting to the point.
Useless video if you own a CSL Elite.