A HUGE THANK YOU to Abby Cox and Costuming Drama for letting me use snippets of their caftan videos!! If you want to watch either of their caftan videos they are linked in the description above. If you want to watch a few more Vintage vs. Reproduction, here is the playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLaG2bBTXx7U6tf1DHulYw50VgYvJadnUP
O I remember that pattern! I was 8 or 9 years old and went with my southern grandmother to the big Minnesota Mills fabric store in Metro Detroit. She was a professional dressmaker and didn't use paper patterns, but I liked looking thru those huge counter books while she shopped. I remember showing her the pattern because I loved the caftan with sleeves. She looked it over and told me those were easy to make, pick some fabric and I could do it myself. I found the most 1970s burnt orange velour and she bought a few yards and a zipper. At her house she took some measurements, drew out a shape with chalk, and I cut it out. I sewed everything but the invisible zipper, which she handled. I loved that thing and wore it as a dress to school. My friends thought it was so fancy, lol. My grandmother made me several more that year and the next few years. We added trims and made different weights. I was thrilled.
I was a kid in the 70s and I remember these caftans being worn by my mother and her friends. Most of the ladies dressed them up with gold shoes and jewelry and big ol' sprayed-up updo hair. They also called them "Hostess Pajamas", and their social rule was that you didn't get in the car and go anywhere in your caftan, that would be gauche. It was only worn if were at home and people came to see you, hence Hostess Pajamas, I guess. My mother did sew and taught me when I was about 7. I recall sitting on encyclopedias in her sewing chair to get up high enough to sit at her big beige and brown Singer, which she still sews on to this day. Hers is in a sewing cabinet and the machine folds down into it when not in use. It's been that way for 50+ years. Wonder why nobody else uses those anymore? When I see 70s patterns being flashed around everywhere, I have to smile because I recognize most of them because they were in our possession at one time or another. I have started purchasing some of the old 70s patterns again, they are much better to use, and I have my own collection I have been buying since the 80s. I think your channel is interesting, and I think it might be fun to get a 40s or 50s pattern and make a dress from it. I did not know that the reproduction patterns were not the same as the original, I had no idea they didn't keep an archive, that's pretty shocking. I assumed they actually reprinted the original from their archive...so I appreciate that I learned that from you! I mean really, if you are someone like me who has been sewing since they were 7 in 1970 and you learn you can't trust Simplicity and McCalls, well my goodness, who can you trust??
Oh my goodness thank you so much for sharing! I guess in 2020/2021 gauche is IN!! 🤣 I think no one uses the old machine because we think new = better. I love my 1960’s pink singer, but she needs lovin before I can use her again.
@@StephanieCanada Hey! Thanks for the response, and yes gauche is very "in" when it comes to fashion these days. People dress like they just rolled out of the bed, it's such an assault on the landscape to see it. I like vintage touches, as in I like my clothes to be well made and have some structure and detailing, that's why I sew my own clothes (mostly) but I don't have to courage to go full-on vintage styling, so I enjoy watching people such as yourself who do! I like that you don't try to make everything all pretty pretty perfect, or give the illusion that it is the way some channels do. Most viewers can spot that kind of charade. When I was asking earlier why people don't use those things anymore, I was referring to the sewing cabinets where the machine folds down into it, not the machines. I myself have a Janome and I love it, and I will sew on my mother's 1962 Singer from time to time just for the nostalgia shits and giggles since I learned on it, but that machine is crotchety in her old age. We call her Tallulah and Tallulah only likes my mother to touch her. There's not a damn thing wrong with her, she trundles right along steadily for my mother. She just doesn't want to be bothered with anybody else so jamming up is her way of giving side-eye saying "Back off ya heifers! I want to be alone". She's a moody-ass bitch. Maybe we should have named her Garbo instead.
When my grandma downsized I got her Bernina in cabinet sewing machine, (from the 70's) I prefer using that over my mom's more modern one. It just works (makes me mad sometimes) but works, it's my main workhorse for my cosplay and any other sewing I have to do.
I can remember my mum sewing 2 velvet kaftan s for my 2 older sisters in 1967, it wasn't the velvet that cause her problems it was the pattern. She had sewed all her adult life, everything from babies nighties to floor length curtainsb and swags but trying to use this pattern made her hate simplicity patterns and from that day untill she had to give up sewing she never brought or allowed my sisters or my self to buy simplicity patterns. Her favourite patterns were Buttrick, she even made my daughter a baby dress from a Buttrick pattern she had used to make our baby dresses from
I never saw those "rulers" on the edge of the pattern envelope until stretch fabrics began to be marketed. A plain ruler indicated that the pattern was good for plain, non-stretch fabrics. Otherwise, the ruler showed you how much give your fabric should have to be appropriate for the garment at hand.
Great review except I LOVE the roomy spaces in the instructions because I use it to make notes after my finished garment. It’s either a sticky note or write in but it’s sooooooo helpful!
I wear the red kind without the belt all the time. So comfortable. Easy to get on and off when you are old and arthritis has got you good. Keep up the good programs girl.
Also, thank you for mentioning our feedback on the more thorough instructions being useful for beginner sewists, that's very sweet of you! :) I do love these videos, it is so interesting to see the differences and super useful to know which reproductions to be wary of!
Oh absolutely! Why do I have a platform if I don't listen to the folks that take their time to watch me. I do my best to listen and learn. That is how we all grow as humans. 😍
I know that you mentioned not liking the white space on the instructions but.....I love it I make notes in my white space about better ways to conserve fabric, size and fitting ideas etc
A reproduction pattern should be just that.... a reproduction of a pattern. I don't want anything "new and improved' or ' now slightly different" like a darn box of cereal. Pattern company's are deceiving us. Another good video!
That is my thought as well. I don't want updating or "adjusting of lines". That is why I prefer to buy from smaller indie sellers instead of mainstream. Paying Joann's $17 was PAINFUL.
A way they could use all that white space is to put the other language instructions there. That way they are next to the corresponding illustration for those who work better with visuals. Also this has nothing to do with the pattern but you looked very pretty today. Love the dress you are wearing.
It would be really cool if you made both of these dresses to compare! I just don't know enough about pattern drafting to visualize the end result. I'd watch that follow up video :)
This is hilarious to me, because I own both the original and the reprint patterns, because I saw the reproduction pattern on Simplicity and bought it, and then while going through my grandmother’s sewing things (she’s been gone for 24 years, but my mom never really did anything with her sewing supplies) I found the original, and laughed my behind off, clearly she and I have the same taste. As for the extra space in the instructions while this might bother some I like having that extra space because I often make notes based on if I need to change anything based on fabric or design choices. The “arts and crafts bit” also doesn’t necessarily bother someone like me either since I’m super short and I have to do it anyways And the changes to the pattern pieces were likely made to allow a more forgiving pattern to new sewists, and those who had no formal sewing education.
Wow l can't believe it There are people like your self,i that are addressing the issues regarding New patterns.l firmly believe Vintage patterns, were of better quality .lm so very happy l found your channel. GODBLESS 🙏✂️🐝🇬🇧
This is very interesting to see the difference. thank you for making this series. I have a few vintage patterns I would love to try out, and now I fear all the reproductions lol
Glad I traced my original copy before I sold it! There was a brief period before the repro was issued where that one was going for at least $25. Your editing is getting super spiffy!
Right! There is definitely still a market for it, but not that high anymore. But I will say it comes in and goes out quickly. Thanks for the editing note. I am glad you are enjoying it!
I totally agree about the need to tape patterns together. Just got a pattern book that advertised itself as containing all of the patterns. It omitted to note that they're half size!!! I NEED to dive into the project and don't want to wrestle with the paper more than doing some tracing, pinning/weighing and cutting around it
I really love these comparisons! I have been thinking about buying reproduction patterns (since they are a bit more accessible and can be bought here in Sweden without too much money put into shipping and such) thinking that they actually are exact copies of the vintage patterns. After watching your videos, well I will not do that, because I think I will not get the look I am looking for. Guess I will just keep searching for nice vintage patterns and just pay the shipping, because it will be worth it. Thank you for the work you put into your work!
I am SO glad these are helpful. I think it is important for folks to know what they are getting. Especially when they think they are getting straight reproductions, but usually are getting anything but (looking at you Walkaway Dress).
@@StephanieCanada OMG! Some weeks ago I received about 30 vintage patterns and posted an Instagram post about this, tagging you. Now, when I looked through your videos again I realized that I actually got this 5315 pattern (in Swedish) in that box of patterns. :)
Right, now my crazy self is looking for the largest vintage size so that I can join in. Because if anyone thinks I am making that modern one, they are incorrect.
Very much enjoy your Vintage vs. Reproduction videos. I recently purchased Simplicity blouse pattern 8445 which is a reproduction of a vintage. Would love to see you do a comparison of that one.
I loved the intro, it was perfect. Would you consider making a tutorial on refolding pattern pieces to put back into the envelope? I feel you would be the expert on it. I trace all my pattern pieces and save the originals, but always struggle to get them back into the envelopes neatly.
I am thinking of doing something like that (like an intro to vintage patterns video) but will have to keep finding the vintage pattern nerds out there!
Every once in a while Burda features a vintage design in their magazine, and I am now intensely curious if those are actual copies of the original patterns or "reproductions" like these. I wonder how many of those old magazines survived with the pattern pages intact.
@@StephanieCanada You can buy the "Twiggy dress" pattern and buy a issue of "Burda moden, september 1969" on ebay, i suggest you this dress specifically because Burda "vintage" standalone patterns are usually reissues of patterns of their past magazines, and find booth the reproduction as to the issue where the vintage pattern is can be quite... hellish, at least i can suggest you this if you want to compare a burda pattern since i have the 1969 issue and i can assure you the pattern is in fact in the magazine althought it requires some manually draftings to extend the dress pieces to the intended measures.
I was one of the fools that believed the reproductions were just that, reproductions/ reprints of the original patterns. This one seems close enough but some of the others are ridiculous. This will likely explain some of the fit issues, and short tie lengths on some of my repro patterns. I am now starting to look into buying more vintage patterns, starting with a gorgeous lot of 6, uncut 'Home Journal' patterns from the 60's I paid $28AUD for on Ebay. I wont say I am swearing off reproduction patterns but I will say that I am gonna be a lot more picky about which ones I purchase, and look for vintage examples first.
Why on earth do the Big Kids of the sewing world do this??? If I'm buying a reproduction pattern I'm expecting them to go back into their back catalogue, print it and then update the instructions (including French & Spanish translations because we are in North America, after all). And that's All I want them to do. Great way to loose customers, corporate. I'm sticking with vintage patterns, draft my own, and pattern books from the library. Thanks for the Sunday hang-out, Woman. Suggestion for the next comparison would be something that's very fitted and tailored (so Vogue?) - the modern ease will be hilarious. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
I think they are trying to "dumb down" the pattern to the lowest common denominator. But it is SUPER frustrating! And yes, I am certainly looking for Vogue patterns to do this with as well. Thank you!
I had that pattern. I thought the modern silhouettes were wrong. Not to mention that faced sleeves gang differently. Hard on people trying to do vintage recreation. This is why I love my actual vintage patterns.
I actually have (or at least had) the original! My Oma had a bunch of patterns that I got after her death and this was definitely one of them. Cool. I am pretty sure I kept it, but there were a bunch I passed on to a friend after I picked through what I wanted.
What they could do with all that empty space is to put the Spanish/French etc languages under the English so that the instructions are all in the same place along with the pictures so those whose first/only language isn't English doesn't have to flip back and forth between pages to look at diagrams that go along with instructions
All of these make me wonder if they went through a technology apocalypse and had to redraw everything. Like if they just kept one reference size on microfilm over the decades and now they draw and grade them in CAD, then it would be so much more tempting for them to go off a standard modern block than to really reproduce the originals, or to give up after tracing one view. Sadly, this is a struggle in many industries.
You may be correct. There may be an underlying issue. However, there are plenty of original vintage patterns that would be easy to acquire and THEN reproduce. BUT.... I may just be a salty vintage seller in that regard.
I have that pattern in my small vintage collection. I have the 16-18 Large and it looks like that's as big as it came. The date on the envelope is a little faded but it looks like 1972. Back then I could have worn this size ( bust 38-40) but sadly, no more. I haven't pulled out the pieces to make sure it's all there. Sometimes people do weird things to a pattern and sometimes they never use it at all. A quick peek without unfolding looks like it's all there and neatly put away. Maybe you could do a show on how to enlarge a pattern without distorting the shape of the garment.
now, I too love dark matt colours & you will pry my Deep Eggplant Purple lippie out of my cold dead lipstick organiser,even though I know it cranks my Resting B*Face to 11, but If I looked as stellar in Vintage RED as you do, I'd never wear anything else ever again. 😍💄 great breakdown!
Right! But I will say this is the closest so far. I do want to keep going as there are SO many out there, and I think it is important for folks to know.
Apparently, Simplicity doesn't want you to look for the original vintage pattern. They want you to buy the ridiculously overpriced modern pattern. I think they also don't want consumers to notice the poor quality of modern patterns as compared to vintage patterns. One of my major pet peeves with modern patterns, aside from the unimaginative designs, is the lack of a description of the garment(s). Used to be you could look on the back of the envelope and there would be a nice, succinct description of the garment and its features, ie, "View B is an A-line skirt with raised waistband, patch pockets and side zipper". And they would tell you the differing features of each view. Now they don't tell you that and you have to look and look at the picture and read the notions list to try and figure out what you're buying. Last time I went to JoAnne, I spent well over an hour looking at patterns and in disgust, didn't buy a thing.
I really, really enjoy and appreciate these particular videos because of course I have a butt load of the reproduction patterns. Believe me, I watch these videos with note pad and pencils taking notes.
I am so glad these help! I realized after the first video that REAL measurements help more than my "guessing". I want to help everyone as much as I can with these.
I bought this pattern back in the 70's. I made it out of a heavy double knit, and wore it until it fell apart. Lol I moved a lot during those years and lost the pattern.😥 it was an easy make and I really liked it.
Than you for this great video, you manage to bring in the humor in your review 🎉 I'm on the way to do this kaftan and this without the pattern and just by looking at pictures videos and finished items 😂 wish me luck 😅
I would love to see how Vogue handles reproductions ... any Vogue pattern will do. And that 1970s caftan pattern looked very familiar ... not the specific pattern, but it looked like the patterns I worked from when I was learning to sew in the 1970s. I haven't used Big Four patterns in many years ... not happy with ow they've changed.
@@StephanieCanada 😅 yup I remember that. My current dog ate at least, cell phone, 3 laptop cords, & a feather pillow. I am still finding feathers! 🤣🤣 What cured her was an accident. I left a laptop cord plugged in. She decided live wired didn't taste good! 🤣🤣🤣 I'm greatful it didn't hurt her.
I imagine the reason the pattern envelope is in English and French while the instructions are in English and Spanish is to comply with Canadian labeling requirements, so they can sell the same envelope in Canada and the USA.
I would love this caftan, but one size don't fit me....as a very VERY inexperienced sewer, how could I make it fit a plus size? i know this was a year ago but I'm playing catch up with your videos cause I'm new to your channel. they may have 2 languages but DAMN!!!! wished they had more sizes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I only have one reproduction pattern. It bills itself as coming from the 50's, and it wants me to serge the neckline facing. When I read it, I looked into the distance and said "But domestic sergers weren't available until the 80's...." My wife, who was watching Ina Garten, said "......What?"
But as a professional costumer, while I saw serged edges in cheap clothes, I didn't work with a serger until 1979. They became high-end sewing flex for home sewers in the 1980s.
I just bought a repro of simplicity 5555 and now I'm a little nervous, haha. I will have to buy an original and do my own little comparison! Hoping since it's such a simple pattern it won't matter too much?? (edited to add yes, I bought the vintage one. We will see!)
Hi! Did I miss you addressing how the repro says you need 6 yards and the vintage way less than that for the caftan?! I don’t understand why that is. Thanks for any thoughts on this.
The reason they don’t give the vintage number and pieces on the back is because of counterfeiting. Modern technology will allow one to easily create a draft and not have to buy the pattern. The number is so someone can’t look it up easily to counterfeit and sell it, especially with PDF patterns. This is an industry that is easy to hide, but it will never be big enough for any agency to ever try to shutdown. Someone told me that all the white space on the instructions was for notes 📝. This was a convo I had in the 90’s. I’m guessing it was a response to customer feedback 🤷🏽♀️ It also makes me wonder why they don’t have the original patterns. Why would they not have a catalog of their work for legal purposes at the very least.
I was thinking about making Simplicity reproduction 8248, do you happen to have the original? It looks complicated and I don't wan't to risk a monstrosity, I'm not good enough to fix their problems myself. It would be great if you could compare it.
Awesome video again! Thank you for the note acknowledging beginning sewists. Much appreciated 🥰 Secondly, an ever so small nit picky thing about zooming. Make it more obvious to really emphasize the doom/sarcasm. I personally had a hard time reading that the camera was zooming in till the last millisecond before it cut to the next image. I really love this comparison series and I recently just bought quite a few vogue reprints myself. Keep up the great storytelling. I loved the intro scene!
Thank you so much! Yes I am still working on my black space set up. It is a work in progress right now. But it should be better in the future. Thank you so much for the feedback!
Well you must have read my mind. My sister has been begging me to make her this pattern for at least a year. I have the repro, but after watching all your comparisons I've been wondering if it was worth it to hunt down the original on this, but I haven't been able to find the original yet
I am so glad I can help. Thankfully THIS repro wasn't TOO bad. I think it can be done from the reproduction (hopefully with the measurements I gave to make it look more original).
@@StephanieCanada yes I'm doing the 2nd bigger boxier one so I'm glad that one was more like the original and I'll definitely being rewatching to make the changes. I'm gonna have to figure out if I want to try and make my own arm facing or just do it as the repro pattern has it.....spoiler alert, laziness of not having to make a new pattern piece will probably win lol
I’m certain I had - maybe have - that pattern somewhere. How much of a difference can there be in a CAFTAN? It’s a freaking T-tunic! I mean, I eventually never used patterns at all for t-tunics, just measurements. Agreed about the price of patterns these days. Maybe they are justifying the extra cost by including all of those sizes??
FYI, 36" fabric was odd in the later Sixties and on. 45" was the norm. Is there really such historical mental distortion that all the youngsters think everything before 1980 was just like the days of early rock and roll? Here it's fabric width. In comments people talk about bullet bras and heavy hurdles being relevant to fit in the mid Seventies when they had been irrelevant since Mary Quant broke big. Simply, folks, it's weird to me that so many people doing vintage patterns and clothing are not actually researching the stuff to nail the details, but letting points slop over one, two, or three decades. I'm much pickier about Swing Age research. Of course, part of the problem you have is believing in decades. Fashion did not have the Sixties. It broke about 1964, pretty sharply. It's like the Swing age isn't the Thirties. It runs like 1934 to 1946, nicely marked by shoulder pads. Then it's New Look until about 1956.
Simplicity patterns (and New Look as well) are no longer available in Canada and that really bugs me. There is French on the envelope, so I think it meets the language requirements. Do you know why we cant buy them here?
How strange that Simplicity isn't available in Canada. They definitely still print/sell French language patterns; I live in France and the Simplicity/New Look envelopes and instruction sheets are in French and German (in the place of English/Spanish). The pattern numbers are different, and some of the specific designer patterns are not available due to licensing agreements, but the international catalog is otherwise pretty much the same as the US one.
I had to watch this just to see how they managed to screw up a pattern for CAFTANS. Did not disappoint. Or did, if I was actually going to make the modern one.
The Big Fours know we do not have original vintage ones, so they cheat us 😬 which armhole facings & extra pieces to make the insides cleaner are what we live for!! *pattern geek 👈 I never use a serger😬
She. Talked about it in one of her other videos. They didn't keep a catalog of their original patterns so they don't have the original design to go off of. Simplicity asked ppl to donate old patterns and I think it was vogue bought old patterns off people, but overall they're just recreating a fashion drawing using modern patternmaking techniques and their blocks they already have
To your question of "why do I have to tape these"... lets blame outsourcing. I work for a different industry, but often for something like the pattern paper we can either special order... which makes the penny pincher in bookkeeping unhappy... or accept an industry standard size. These sizes very rarely fit exactly what I want, and occasionally I do have to make a deal with bookkeeping and special order, but when possible we just deal with what we could get. As to the layout of the instructions... yeah boss would tear my head off for wasting that much paper. It looks like they are probably laid out in "pages" with an image and the assocciated instructions like it was a powerpoint, and then assembled into the paper instructions. Why they did it that way is beyond me as well.
Could you also do Butterick B5708 from Butterick Retro line vs. the original, Butterick 6439 from the 1950s? It's a lovely dress with bows on the shoulders and seems simple enough, but it's quite notorious for how badly the reproduction fits, including a ton of reviews of people struggling to get it to fit on Pattern Review - sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/51007
Oh my word! I didn't know they had repro-d that one!! I think I have the original in my personal "not to be sold" stash Hmmmm.... Thank you for the recommendation!
I made the version with the waist belt back in the day for my mother. It was a bit of a pain to sew but she loved it and wore it for eons. I will NOT be making it for myself. Just sayin.
A HUGE THANK YOU to Abby Cox and Costuming Drama for letting me use snippets of their caftan videos!! If you want to watch either of their caftan videos they are linked in the description above. If you want to watch a few more Vintage vs. Reproduction, here is the playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLaG2bBTXx7U6tf1DHulYw50VgYvJadnUP
O I remember that pattern! I was 8 or 9 years old and went with my southern grandmother to the big Minnesota Mills fabric store in Metro Detroit. She was a professional dressmaker and didn't use paper patterns, but I liked looking thru those huge counter books while she shopped. I remember showing her the pattern because I loved the caftan with sleeves. She looked it over and told me those were easy to make, pick some fabric and I could do it myself. I found the most 1970s burnt orange velour and she bought a few yards and a zipper. At her house she took some measurements, drew out a shape with chalk, and I cut it out. I sewed everything but the invisible zipper, which she handled.
I loved that thing and wore it as a dress to school. My friends thought it was so fancy, lol. My grandmother made me several more that year and the next few years. We added trims and made different weights. I was thrilled.
I was a kid in the 70s and I remember these caftans being worn by my mother and her friends. Most of the ladies dressed them up with gold shoes and jewelry and big ol' sprayed-up updo hair. They also called them "Hostess Pajamas", and their social rule was that you didn't get in the car and go anywhere in your caftan, that would be gauche. It was only worn if were at home and people came to see you, hence Hostess Pajamas, I guess. My mother did sew and taught me when I was about 7. I recall sitting on encyclopedias in her sewing chair to get up high enough to sit at her big beige and brown Singer, which she still sews on to this day. Hers is in a sewing cabinet and the machine folds down into it when not in use. It's been that way for 50+ years. Wonder why nobody else uses those anymore? When I see 70s patterns being flashed around everywhere, I have to smile because I recognize most of them because they were in our possession at one time or another. I have started purchasing some of the old 70s patterns again, they are much better to use, and I have my own collection I have been buying since the 80s. I think your channel is interesting, and I think it might be fun to get a 40s or 50s pattern and make a dress from it. I did not know that the reproduction patterns were not the same as the original, I had no idea they didn't keep an archive, that's pretty shocking. I assumed they actually reprinted the original from their archive...so I appreciate that I learned that from you! I mean really, if you are someone like me who has been sewing since they were 7 in 1970 and you learn you can't trust Simplicity and McCalls, well my goodness, who can you trust??
Oh my goodness thank you so much for sharing! I guess in 2020/2021 gauche is IN!! 🤣
I think no one uses the old machine because we think new = better. I love my 1960’s pink singer, but she needs lovin before I can use her again.
@@StephanieCanada Hey! Thanks for the response, and yes gauche is very "in" when it comes to fashion these days. People dress like they just rolled out of the bed, it's such an assault on the landscape to see it. I like vintage touches, as in I like my clothes to be well made and have some structure and detailing, that's why I sew my own clothes (mostly) but I don't have to courage to go full-on vintage styling, so I enjoy watching people such as yourself who do! I like that you don't try to make everything all pretty pretty perfect, or give the illusion that it is the way some channels do. Most viewers can spot that kind of charade.
When I was asking earlier why people don't use those things anymore, I was referring to the sewing cabinets where the machine folds down into it, not the machines. I myself have a Janome and I love it, and I will sew on my mother's 1962 Singer from time to time just for the nostalgia shits and giggles since I learned on it, but that machine is crotchety in her old age. We call her Tallulah and Tallulah only likes my mother to touch her. There's not a damn thing wrong with her, she trundles right along steadily for my mother. She just doesn't want to be bothered with anybody else so jamming up is her way of giving side-eye saying "Back off ya heifers! I want to be alone". She's a moody-ass bitch. Maybe we should have named her Garbo instead.
When my grandma downsized I got her Bernina in cabinet sewing machine, (from the 70's) I prefer using that over my mom's more modern one. It just works (makes me mad sometimes) but works, it's my main workhorse for my cosplay and any other sewing I have to do.
@@heatherpratchler1509 I have my Grandma's '60's Elna, in a wood cabinet. I wouldn't trade it for anything!
I can remember my mum sewing 2 velvet kaftan s for my 2 older sisters in 1967, it wasn't the velvet that cause her problems it was the pattern. She had sewed all her adult life, everything from babies nighties to floor length curtainsb and swags but trying to use this pattern made her hate simplicity patterns and from that day untill she had to give up sewing she never brought or allowed my sisters or my self to buy simplicity patterns.
Her favourite patterns were Buttrick, she even made my daughter a baby dress from a Buttrick pattern she had used to make our baby dresses from
I never saw those "rulers" on the edge of the pattern envelope until stretch fabrics began to be marketed. A plain ruler indicated that the pattern was good for plain, non-stretch fabrics. Otherwise, the ruler showed you how much give your fabric should have to be appropriate for the garment at hand.
Oh you are so right! I have seen that on the sides for knit only patterns. But thanks, I never realized it could be on standard patterns as well.
Great review except I LOVE the roomy spaces in the instructions because I use it to make notes after my finished garment. It’s either a sticky note or write in but it’s sooooooo helpful!
Makes so much sense that modern stuff is less shaped and has more ease. Tee shirts used to be skin shaped. Now they bag.
Fair, and honestly the deviations on this one weren't that bad.
I wear the red kind without the belt all the time. So comfortable. Easy to get on and off when you are old and arthritis has got you good.
Keep up the good programs girl.
Also, thank you for mentioning our feedback on the more thorough instructions being useful for beginner sewists, that's very sweet of you! :) I do love these videos, it is so interesting to see the differences and super useful to know which reproductions to be wary of!
Oh absolutely! Why do I have a platform if I don't listen to the folks that take their time to watch me. I do my best to listen and learn. That is how we all grow as humans. 😍
I know that you mentioned not liking the white space on the instructions but.....I love it I make notes in my white space about better ways to conserve fabric, size and fitting ideas etc
A reproduction pattern should be just that.... a reproduction of a pattern. I don't want anything "new and improved' or ' now slightly different" like a darn box of cereal. Pattern company's are deceiving us. Another good video!
That is my thought as well. I don't want updating or "adjusting of lines". That is why I prefer to buy from smaller indie sellers instead of mainstream. Paying Joann's $17 was PAINFUL.
@@StephanieCanada they go on sale really often. I make lists whenever I’m in store, but only buy during sales.
I completely agree with her sentiment regarding taping pieces together
Like WHY?! Sewing is already a dang project! Why you gotta be adding paper and tape to the situation?
It started so promising ... And then... It fell apart like my joints after I turned 25
I laughed WAY too hard at this!!! (also, I feel seen)
So close, and yet...
I sat thru the whole video waiting for you to show us that dress. It's super cute 😊
A way they could use all that white space is to put the other language instructions there. That way they are next to the corresponding illustration for those who work better with visuals. Also this has nothing to do with the pattern but you looked very pretty today. Love the dress you are wearing.
You are SO RIGHT! They could insert the other language along side the English! And thank you, I hadn't pulled this dress out in forever.
100% agree with liz springer
It would be really cool if you made both of these dresses to compare! I just don't know enough about pattern drafting to visualize the end result. I'd watch that follow up video :)
This is hilarious to me, because I own both the original and the reprint patterns, because I saw the reproduction pattern on Simplicity and bought it, and then while going through my grandmother’s sewing things (she’s been gone for 24 years, but my mom never really did anything with her sewing supplies) I found the original, and laughed my behind off, clearly she and I have the same taste.
As for the extra space in the instructions while this might bother some I like having that extra space because I often make notes based on if I need to change anything based on fabric or design choices.
The “arts and crafts bit” also doesn’t necessarily bother someone like me either since I’m super short and I have to do it anyways
And the changes to the pattern pieces were likely made to allow a more forgiving pattern to new sewists, and those who had no formal sewing education.
Wow l can't believe it
There are people like your self,i that are addressing the issues regarding New patterns.l firmly believe
Vintage patterns, were of better quality .lm so very happy l found your channel.
GODBLESS 🙏✂️🐝🇬🇧
Thank you so much!
This is very interesting to see the difference. thank you for making this series. I have a few vintage patterns I would love to try out, and now I fear all the reproductions lol
Glad I traced my original copy before I sold it! There was a brief period before the repro was issued where that one was going for at least $25. Your editing is getting super spiffy!
Right! There is definitely still a market for it, but not that high anymore. But I will say it comes in and goes out quickly. Thanks for the editing note. I am glad you are enjoying it!
I totally agree about the need to tape patterns together. Just got a pattern book that advertised itself as containing all of the patterns. It omitted to note that they're half size!!! I NEED to dive into the project and don't want to wrestle with the paper more than doing some tracing, pinning/weighing and cutting around it
I really love these comparisons! I have been thinking about buying reproduction patterns (since they are a bit more accessible and can be bought here in Sweden without too much money put into shipping and such) thinking that they actually are exact copies of the vintage patterns. After watching your videos, well I will not do that, because I think I will not get the look I am looking for. Guess I will just keep searching for nice vintage patterns and just pay the shipping, because it will be worth it. Thank you for the work you put into your work!
I am SO glad these are helpful. I think it is important for folks to know what they are getting. Especially when they think they are getting straight reproductions, but usually are getting anything but (looking at you Walkaway Dress).
@@StephanieCanada Yes! I also still hope that I might find something good from the small businesses online that reproduce patterns.
@@StephanieCanada OMG! Some weeks ago I received about 30 vintage patterns and posted an Instagram post about this, tagging you. Now, when I looked through your videos again I realized that I actually got this 5315 pattern (in Swedish) in that box of patterns. :)
Oh wow!! I made that very Caftan in 1974 for my freshman year of college!! It was hot pink velour. I wish I had pictures of it.
I love your comparisons even though I NEVER sew vintage reproductions. BTW, really good hair today
Thank you so much! Oh I know, I want NOTHING to do with these dang reproductions.
Pretty sure we chill on the Astral plane, sis, and its probably flowy, elegant, and breezy as hell because I dream the caftan dream tooooooooo
Right, now my crazy self is looking for the largest vintage size so that I can join in. Because if anyone thinks I am making that modern one, they are incorrect.
Very much enjoy your Vintage vs. Reproduction videos. I recently purchased Simplicity blouse pattern 8445 which is a reproduction of a vintage. Would love to see you do a comparison of that one.
Thank you so much! I have seen that one, and maybe I have it somewhere. Will add it to my list for you!
I loved the intro, it was perfect.
Would you consider making a tutorial on refolding pattern pieces to put back into the envelope? I feel you would be the expert on it. I trace all my pattern pieces and save the originals, but always struggle to get them back into the envelopes neatly.
I am thinking of doing something like that (like an intro to vintage patterns video) but will have to keep finding the vintage pattern nerds out there!
Hi. I made that in the early 1970's! I wore it a lot, loved it. It was the red version.
AMAZING!
My mother had the original pattern, she made the red version, loved it and wore it all the time.
Every once in a while Burda features a vintage design in their magazine, and I am now intensely curious if those are actual copies of the original patterns or "reproductions" like these. I wonder how many of those old magazines survived with the pattern pages intact.
oh boy... that could be a deep dive, but I am willing to don my scuba gear and search for that treasure.
@@StephanieCanada You can buy the "Twiggy dress" pattern and buy a issue of "Burda moden, september 1969" on ebay, i suggest you this dress specifically because Burda "vintage" standalone patterns are usually reissues of patterns of their past magazines, and find booth the reproduction as to the issue where the vintage pattern is can be quite... hellish, at least i can suggest you this if you want to compare a burda pattern since i have the 1969 issue and i can assure you the pattern is in fact in the magazine althought it requires some manually draftings to extend the dress pieces to the intended measures.
I was one of the fools that believed the reproductions were just that, reproductions/ reprints of the original patterns. This one seems close enough but some of the others are ridiculous. This will likely explain some of the fit issues, and short tie lengths on some of my repro patterns. I am now starting to look into buying more vintage patterns, starting with a gorgeous lot of 6, uncut 'Home Journal' patterns from the 60's I paid $28AUD for on Ebay. I wont say I am swearing off reproduction patterns but I will say that I am gonna be a lot more picky about which ones I purchase, and look for vintage examples first.
Why on earth do the Big Kids of the sewing world do this??? If I'm buying a reproduction pattern I'm expecting them to go back into their back catalogue, print it and then update the instructions (including French & Spanish translations because we are in North America, after all).
And that's All I want them to do.
Great way to loose customers, corporate. I'm sticking with vintage patterns, draft my own, and pattern books from the library. Thanks for the Sunday hang-out, Woman.
Suggestion for the next comparison would be something that's very fitted and tailored (so Vogue?) - the modern ease will be hilarious.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
I think they are trying to "dumb down" the pattern to the lowest common denominator. But it is SUPER frustrating! And yes, I am certainly looking for Vogue patterns to do this with as well. Thank you!
I had that pattern. I thought the modern silhouettes were wrong. Not to mention that faced sleeves gang differently. Hard on people trying to do vintage recreation. This is why I love my actual vintage patterns.
Oh yes I do love my true vintage even though sometimes they have their own issues.
I actually have (or at least had) the original! My Oma had a bunch of patterns that I got after her death and this was definitely one of them. Cool. I am pretty sure I kept it, but there were a bunch I passed on to a friend after I picked through what I wanted.
What they could do with all that empty space is to put the Spanish/French etc languages under the English so that the instructions are all in the same place along with the pictures so those whose first/only language isn't English doesn't have to flip back and forth between pages to look at diagrams that go along with instructions
With boxes like the vintage pattern so you are much clearer matching the words to the pic!
All of these make me wonder if they went through a technology apocalypse and had to redraw everything. Like if they just kept one reference size on microfilm over the decades and now they draw and grade them in CAD, then it would be so much more tempting for them to go off a standard modern block than to really reproduce the originals, or to give up after tracing one view. Sadly, this is a struggle in many industries.
You may be correct. There may be an underlying issue. However, there are plenty of original vintage patterns that would be easy to acquire and THEN reproduce. BUT.... I may just be a salty vintage seller in that regard.
@@StephanieCanada That would cost them fifty cents though. 🙄
Oddly, in Australia, a lot of our accessible fabrics are 90cm (35") or 110cm (44"). We do get 150cm (60") but not so commonly
Are the fabrics possibly imported from Britain? Maybe that explains the narrower widths (all those wonderful Liberty lawns, etc.).
I have that pattern in my small vintage collection. I have the 16-18 Large and it looks like that's as big as it came. The date on the envelope is a little faded but it looks like 1972. Back then I could have worn this size ( bust 38-40) but sadly, no more. I haven't pulled out the pieces to make sure it's all there. Sometimes people do weird things to a pattern and sometimes they never use it at all. A quick peek without unfolding looks like it's all there and neatly put away. Maybe you could do a show on how to enlarge a pattern without distorting the shape of the garment.
now, I too love dark matt colours & you will pry my Deep Eggplant Purple lippie out of my cold dead lipstick organiser,even though I know it cranks my Resting B*Face to 11, but If I looked as stellar in Vintage RED as you do, I'd never wear anything else ever again. 😍💄 great breakdown!
Thank you so much! That is very kind of you.
WHo knew they put so much work into changing it. I love these, they are so informative. I hope you can do more.
Right! But I will say this is the closest so far.
I do want to keep going as there are SO many out there, and I think it is important for folks to know.
Apparently, Simplicity doesn't want you to look for the original vintage pattern. They want you to buy the ridiculously overpriced modern pattern. I think they also don't want consumers to notice the poor quality of modern patterns as compared to vintage patterns. One of my major pet peeves with modern patterns, aside from the unimaginative designs, is the lack of a description of the garment(s). Used to be you could look on the back of the envelope and there would be a nice, succinct description of the garment and its features, ie, "View B is an A-line skirt with raised waistband, patch pockets and side zipper". And they would tell you the differing features of each view. Now they don't tell you that and you have to look and look at the picture and read the notions list to try and figure out what you're buying. Last time I went to JoAnne, I spent well over an hour looking at patterns and in disgust, didn't buy a thing.
I really, really enjoy and appreciate these particular videos because of course I have a butt load of the reproduction patterns. Believe me, I watch these videos with note pad and pencils taking notes.
I am so glad these help! I realized after the first video that REAL measurements help more than my "guessing". I want to help everyone as much as I can with these.
I bought this pattern back in the 70's. I made it out of a heavy double knit, and wore it until it fell apart. Lol I moved a lot during those years and lost the pattern.😥 it was an easy make and I really liked it.
Than you for this great video, you manage to bring in the humor in your review 🎉 I'm on the way to do this kaftan and this without the pattern and just by looking at pictures videos and finished items 😂 wish me luck 😅
omg, my mom made the floral afghan when I was a kid in a hideous pattern and would pick me up at school in it eeeks. Lol ty
I enjoyed this video and just wanted to pop in to say your hair looked really pretty!
Thank you SO much! You are too kind. I normally never straighten my hair (because Florida usually undoes it in a matter of minutes).
I love the way your do things. Love your sassiness!
Thank you so much!
I would love to see how Vogue handles reproductions ... any Vogue pattern will do.
And that 1970s caftan pattern looked very familiar ... not the specific pattern, but it looked like the patterns I worked from when I was learning to sew in the 1970s. I haven't used Big Four patterns in many years ... not happy with ow they've changed.
I‘d love to see Simplicity 1459 (modern number), your videos are always so entertaining and instructive ❤️✂️🧵
Thank you for the suggestion Julia!
You have no idea how much I needed to see your video today.
Aww yeah! I am glad that even though it was SUPER late you were abe to enjoy it.
I love bichon puppies! I miss mine. You should include them in each video. Thanks for what you do!
I try to, but she is still in the "I will terrorize Mommy's fabric" stage".
@@StephanieCanada 😅 yup I remember that. My current dog ate at least, cell phone, 3 laptop cords, & a feather pillow. I am still finding feathers! 🤣🤣 What cured her was an accident. I left a laptop cord plugged in. She decided live wired didn't taste good! 🤣🤣🤣 I'm greatful it didn't hurt her.
I imagine the reason the pattern envelope is in English and French while the instructions are in English and Spanish is to comply with Canadian labeling requirements, so they can sell the same envelope in Canada and the USA.
I would love this caftan, but one size don't fit me....as a very VERY inexperienced sewer, how could I make it fit a plus size? i know this was a year ago but I'm playing catch up with your videos cause I'm new to your channel. they may have 2 languages but DAMN!!!! wished they had more sizes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I really love your new set. The lighting looks so good on you
Thank you so much!
I only have one reproduction pattern. It bills itself as coming from the 50's, and it wants me to serge the neckline facing. When I read it, I looked into the distance and said "But domestic sergers weren't available until the 80's...."
My wife, who was watching Ina Garten, said "......What?"
Domestic sergers were invented in 1965 and import began to the US in 1968
But as a professional costumer, while I saw serged edges in cheap clothes, I didn't work with a serger until 1979. They became high-end sewing flex for home sewers in the 1980s.
Very instructive, and humorous 🌷👌🏾
Thank you!
I just bought a repro of simplicity 5555 and now I'm a little nervous, haha. I will have to buy an original and do my own little comparison! Hoping since it's such a simple pattern it won't matter too much?? (edited to add yes, I bought the vintage one. We will see!)
I had to scale the pattern up anyway, so I went with the modern pattern... I would have loved the armhole facing though...
It was SO odd that it wasn't there! And this is one of the few I would say can be made from the repro (with slight alterations).
Oh honey you look so beautiful in this video! As always learned so much about reading patterns and was so entertained I love these videos xx
Thank you so much!!
I grew up when 35 inch fabric was as common as 45. Hated it.
Hi! Did I miss you addressing how the repro says you need 6 yards and the vintage way less than that for the caftan?! I don’t understand why that is. Thanks for any thoughts on this.
The reason they don’t give the vintage number and pieces on the back is because of counterfeiting. Modern technology will allow one to easily create a draft and not have to buy the pattern. The number is so someone can’t look it up easily to counterfeit and sell it, especially with PDF patterns. This is an industry that is easy to hide, but it will never be big enough for any agency to ever try to shutdown.
Someone told me that all the white space on the instructions was for notes 📝. This was a convo I had in the 90’s. I’m guessing it was a response to customer feedback 🤷🏽♀️
It also makes me wonder why they don’t have the original patterns. Why would they not have a catalog of their work for legal purposes at the very least.
I would love to see a comparison of Butterick B5708 to the original version 6439. I have both of them but I love the way you do these videos!!
Oh thank you for the idea! I will add it to the list.
I was thinking about making Simplicity reproduction 8248, do you happen to have the original? It looks complicated and I don't wan't to risk a monstrosity, I'm not good enough to fix their problems myself. It would be great if you could compare it.
Awesome video again! Thank you for the note acknowledging beginning sewists. Much appreciated 🥰
Secondly, an ever so small nit picky thing about zooming.
Make it more obvious to really emphasize the doom/sarcasm. I personally had a hard time reading that the camera was zooming in till the last millisecond before it cut to the next image.
I really love this comparison series and I recently just bought quite a few vogue reprints myself.
Keep up the great storytelling. I loved the intro scene!
Thank you so much! Yes I am still working on my black space set up. It is a work in progress right now. But it should be better in the future. Thank you so much for the feedback!
So glad to have found your channel, you are clever and very funny
Well you must have read my mind. My sister has been begging me to make her this pattern for at least a year. I have the repro, but after watching all your comparisons I've been wondering if it was worth it to hunt down the original on this, but I haven't been able to find the original yet
I am so glad I can help. Thankfully THIS repro wasn't TOO bad. I think it can be done from the reproduction (hopefully with the measurements I gave to make it look more original).
@@StephanieCanada yes I'm doing the 2nd bigger boxier one so I'm glad that one was more like the original and I'll definitely being rewatching to make the changes. I'm gonna have to figure out if I want to try and make my own arm facing or just do it as the repro pattern has it.....spoiler alert, laziness of not having to make a new pattern piece will probably win lol
Looking good!! Fun video!
Thank you so much!
love me a good caftan!! and you look gorgeous today--love your hair and make-up (and you look equally lovely without make-up, too, btw). :)
Off topic but I would love, looove if you made a video on 1920s lace negligee... (lace, ribbons etc... Like I saw in the B&W movies) :-)
Oh! I can certainly look into that!
Why do they do this? I always have avoided the repro patterns. Glad I have now I see them compared.
I love watching you, I think you are really funny... In a good way :)
My Mom made 5315 for herself back in the day. She wore the HELL out of that thing.
I’m certain I had - maybe have - that pattern somewhere. How much of a difference can there be in a CAFTAN? It’s a freaking T-tunic! I mean, I eventually never used patterns at all for t-tunics, just measurements.
Agreed about the price of patterns these days. Maybe they are justifying the extra cost by including all of those sizes??
FYI, 36" fabric was odd in the later Sixties and on. 45" was the norm.
Is there really such historical mental distortion that all the youngsters think everything before 1980 was just like the days of early rock and roll? Here it's fabric width. In comments people talk about bullet bras and heavy hurdles being relevant to fit in the mid Seventies when they had been irrelevant since Mary Quant broke big.
Simply, folks, it's weird to me that so many people doing vintage patterns and clothing are not actually researching the stuff to nail the details, but letting points slop over one, two, or three decades. I'm much pickier about Swing Age research.
Of course, part of the problem you have is believing in decades. Fashion did not have the Sixties. It broke about 1964, pretty sharply. It's like the Swing age isn't the Thirties. It runs like 1934 to 1946, nicely marked by shoulder pads. Then it's New Look until about 1956.
Staff of Power! I like that.
Right! This is what happens when I am loopy
Please do more vintage vs reproduction videos.
I have quite a few lined up, just have to find time with my FT job.
I loved this video!
Simplicity patterns (and New Look as well) are no longer available in Canada and that really bugs me. There is French on the envelope, so I think it meets the language requirements. Do you know why we cant buy them here?
How strange that Simplicity isn't available in Canada. They definitely still print/sell French language patterns; I live in France and the Simplicity/New Look envelopes and instruction sheets are in French and German (in the place of English/Spanish). The pattern numbers are different, and some of the specific designer patterns are not available due to licensing agreements, but the international catalog is otherwise pretty much the same as the US one.
How odd, I don’t know why you can’t buy them. I may have to look into that.
How interesting.
It seems like they are getting better...but how do you screw up a caftan?!
I had to watch this just to see how they managed to screw up a pattern for CAFTANS.
Did not disappoint. Or did, if I was actually going to make the modern one.
Enjoyable
The Big Fours know we do not have original vintage ones, so they cheat us 😬 which armhole facings & extra pieces to make the insides cleaner are what we live for!! *pattern geek 👈 I never use a serger😬
You know, I don't even think it is that malicious. I just think that they don't care.
Absolutely! Big, greedy corporation(s) -- and possibly only one now as Simplicity appears to be under the same umbrella.😒
I'm trying th eTLC caftan next! LOL
I love your videos.
Thank you so much!!
Looking forward to seeing what's heading your way from my neck of the woods - is it a Madam Weigl?
It is not actually. I don't think Madam Weigl has ever done a repro (that I know of). But that would be interesting if they did.
Do you know why they don't want to replicate the original design as is?
She. Talked about it in one of her other videos. They didn't keep a catalog of their original patterns so they don't have the original design to go off of. Simplicity asked ppl to donate old patterns and I think it was vogue bought old patterns off people, but overall they're just recreating a fashion drawing using modern patternmaking techniques and their blocks they already have
@@ivoryhenson1285 Aha! Thank you!
🎉
They used the left turn only lane to make a right turn
To your question of "why do I have to tape these"... lets blame outsourcing. I work for a different industry, but often for something like the pattern paper we can either special order... which makes the penny pincher in bookkeeping unhappy... or accept an industry standard size. These sizes very rarely fit exactly what I want, and occasionally I do have to make a deal with bookkeeping and special order, but when possible we just deal with what we could get.
As to the layout of the instructions... yeah boss would tear my head off for wasting that much paper. It looks like they are probably laid out in "pages" with an image and the assocciated instructions like it was a powerpoint, and then assembled into the paper instructions. Why they did it that way is beyond me as well.
I'm ALWAYS in between sizes no matter what size I am..
Can you make a hat? I love you😍so super fun and adorable.
Maybe in the future. I have a HUGE head and hats look....odd..... but I will keep hunting for a good one.
@@StephanieCanada I have a ton of hat patterns 🤔
Caftans
Could you also do Butterick B5708 from Butterick Retro line vs. the original, Butterick 6439 from the 1950s? It's a lovely dress with bows on the shoulders and seems simple enough, but it's quite notorious for how badly the reproduction fits, including a ton of reviews of people struggling to get it to fit on Pattern Review - sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/51007
Oh my word! I didn't know they had repro-d that one!! I think I have the original in my personal "not to be sold" stash
Hmmmm....
Thank you for the recommendation!
I have the original pattern.
Duh! Much dig!
😍😂😊
I made the version with the waist belt back in the day for my mother. It was a bit of a pain to sew but she loved it and wore it for eons. I will NOT be making it for myself. Just sayin.
I just don't understand why they can't duplicate their own patterns. Why make a reproduction pattern but have them so different? Makes no sense to me.
As someone who has made the vintage pattern...the armhole sucks. It constantly pops out. This might be why the modern improved on the pattern.
I literally have the reproduction pattern and have wanted to make this! 😵
I hope this video helped to get yours a little closer to the vintage (if you wanted it).