Thank you for tuning into another episode of Vintage vs. Reproduction! If you enjoy this kind of content and want to see the final version made up, please consider heading to my Ko-Fi account and donating to that end: ko-fi.com/stephaniecanada
I would love to see a comparison between genuine vintage and reproducer Lady Marlowe on Etsy. I absolutely adore her patterns. I would love to know the differences, if any, of her patterns as well. She also has this specific overall pattern.
@@evergreenfaerieknots hi Heidi! As I know most of the vintage sellers and reproducers, I know how much work they put in to make them as close as possible to the original. My goal in these is not to go against my community of small sellers and reproducers. My goal is to showcase how poorly the big 4 deal with these “reproductions”.
I think part of the difference is the original was meant to be workwear, so it was more practical. Hence the waistband with no exposed seam and extra movement in the pants. But the modern one is 'fashion.'
It’s like they didn’t even bother to look at the original, just thought, “Eh, close enough.” Simplicity should be ashamed. They could do better. You should be their consultant so you could tell them, “WTF are you thinking??”
"This is why I have Trust Issues." Honestly, what are these men thinking. Oh, wait. The thinking function has been uninstalled... - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
@@stevezytveld6585Imo they have seen the demand for vintage patterns on eBay, Etsy etc and wanted to cash in on it whilst exerting as little effort as possible.
This reminds me of that Christopher Titus bit about Capri pants "what jedi mind trick was pulled to make women think these look good we're going to give you a piece of fabric that makes your butt look wider, your legs look shorter and your feet look bigger"
Thank you so much for this! I now understand why my house was all over the place and the pants of the overalls were just not even…ugh. This is why I had to basically re-draft the whole pattern. If i had known that the reproductions were not reissues, i would have shelled out the extra money and then just resized the pattern to fit me.
I think your theory about the hood being missing is correct. The other thing is that modern clothing has different wearing ease because undergarments. I’m willing to bet that the modern version was drafted to account for modern undergarments and for modern style lines rather than as a direct reprint. It’s “inspired”, lol. I’ve made up the modern hooded top. The hood is DEEP. Vintage hoods barely cover the top of the head when worn. Oh yeah... one more thing... Simplicity is an oxymoron. Worst (modern) patterns ever. Too bad they are ubiquitous.
Still, they could have looked at some other period sources. The Pictorial Guide to Modern Home Dressmaking has drafting instructions for a hood which would have given more accurate shape and proportions, even though it would still not have matched the vintage pattern exactly.
I can confirm the missing hood hypothesis as I bought this authentic vintage pattern and the front illustration shows it as having the hood but in the back pattern piece layout diagram its missing. I spoke to some pattern enthusiasts who said that it was a later release (still in the 1940s though) that for some reason they decided to omit the hood but didn't change the front illustration to reflect that. For who knows what reason - shifting trends? But perhaps Simplicity was donated the later version for their repro. Also second the company buying back their own patterns. Asking for donations is hilariously lame.
My mother had decades of old patterns filling an entire old chest-of-drawer. One day when she decided she was too old and arthritic to sew anymore, she burned them all. They were hers to do what she wanted, but I was really disappointed she didn't ask if I wanted any of them before she disposed of them. My sister, who sews very well, was so upset she wouldn't speak to mother for months and months. Old, vintage, patterns have more than simple sewing uses. They are history and a historical collection of life of the person or people they belong to. Never underestimate the power of a pattern!
The last Simplicity pattern I used was a pair of maternity pants - that child is now 25. I will never use another pattern from them. I knew their patterns had a lot of ease, so I chose a size smaller than the envelope said. I also have large thighs in proportion to my waist and hips. So I expected the pants to need a little altering. I machine basted the leg seams, tried them on, and ... I ended up slimming the legs down by about 4"! Keep in mind I was already making a smaller size than they suggested ... they still fit like clown pants, and I was happy to get rid of them when I gave birth. I also made up a pair of maternity pants from Burda, [This was before they were bought by Simplicity - the patterns were printed in German.] I made up the size suggested, no alterations ... they were one of the best fitting pairs of pants I ever owned. If I need a pattern for something modern, I look to Burda first - the magazine, not the individual patterns. FYI, Burda occasionally publishes vintage patterns in their magazine. It would be interesting to see any changes ... but you need a degree in Engineering or Mathematics to figure out Burda magazine patterns, I would never wish that on Stephanie!
With how much Stephanie hates multi size patterns, I think her head may explode trying to figure out a Burda magazine pattern lol, you nailed it when you said you need a degree to figure them out
I started to find in the 80s that patterns started to be way bigger than the real measurements. Started with McCalls and spread to the rest. When I do find an old pattern which have my measurements they always work. I have a ton of old patterns from my youth. Have made clothing for my children with them when they were teens. Unfortunately if I ever reach my old size again I will be too old to sew. I made a sun dress a few years back. Went one size group down. Used the smallest size. Exact same problem as you. Way too big.
@@dawnelder9046 I actually have shrunk down to my pre-kid size ... a major medical problem will do that. [Under control now.] There are a lot of my 1980s patterns that would fit me again - and I never liked high fashion, so they wouldn't look weird, either. For modern patterns, I try to avoid Big 4. But when I don't I ignore their size suggestions. 1. I use my high bust measure instead of the pattern's full bust, and plan to make a FBA. [Currently a size 30H bra.] 2. I buy the pattern where my high bust is either near the top of the size range or one size group down. 3. At home, I open the tissue and measure off the shoulder, full bust, waist, hip (whatever needs to fit well). This will include ease and seam allowance. 4. Subtract the seam allowance 5. I then compare the tissue to a similar item in my closet, and pick the closest size to something that fits me well. For example, if a shirt pattern's total bust size minus seam allowance is 38-40-42-44, and a similar shirt in my closet measures 38, I'll make up the smallest size ... even if they claim that is for a 30" bust. More commonly, I just use a European pattern. I find working with Burda magazine pattern map insanity easier than trying to adjust a Big 4 pattern.
The comparison is enough for me, I am happy to see the pattern pieces, not many of us a standard size. We can then decide whether we want to buy the pattern/s. Birdy
THIS is why I'm so glad I taught myself patter drafting. The mathematics of the 19th century drafting gives you a garment that need almost no adjustments. PLUS you get an armscye that allows you to MOVE. Sorry to be so late to the party, but I only just FOUND you. Thank you for existing.
I recently bought a suit from the 1940s that just happened to be made to my exact measurements and I was AMAZED at how comfortable it was. I immediately started swinging my arms in huge circles ...it felt like I had discovered some sort of suit design secret. I'm learning drafting and plan to recreate that suit pattern.
The 'tailors tacks make you old' made me laugh. You're vintage not old lol. I don't tailor tack but I hand fell most of my seams that don't get French seamed or enclosed which is probably bonkers to most people. I figure everyone who sews has a technique quirk or two 🤷♀️
another tailor's tacker here (it's what my mum taught me!) Have also just finished a UFO shirt (it was cut out this time last year)... French seams for the sides and underarm, hand-felled for the sleeve heads, hand-stitched the inner yoke fronts and inner collar stand (because it's less fiddly than messing around with the "burrito" method). Classic shirt shape, pure linen.
@@catherinerw1 I'm another one who uses tailor's tacks. I also baste before sewing seams etc. The couple of minutes it takes is worth it and then not having to pull out pins as I go. It probably also saves me money on needles as I just know that I'd miss a pin every now and again.
@@expatpiskie I must admit I do sew over pins, depends on the fabric if I tack/baste or not. Squiggly viscose jersey... every time! I must admit I don’t see the point of machine basting (except for zips, to loosely close the seam first); other than that, hand basting makes much more sense! Better control apart from anything else. (No I haven’t made friends with WonderClips).
My vintage wish seller on Etsy has a digitized pdf pattern of the vintage version! It’s size 32” bust. I just finished making the blouse with the vintage pattern and it looks great! What I liked about this pattern is the versatility. There’s a blouse with long sleeves or short sleeves, a collar or hood, trousers or overalls! All in one pattern! Also the 1940s hood is such a hilarious concept to me because is it comfy? Is it dressy? Who knows! 😂 anyways great video and glad I bought the vintage version.
Wow your video has definitely opened my eyes with regards to vintage and the new modern versions. I never realised they would be so different 😔 I am still trying to get my head around how these pattern companies want to reprint vintage sewing patterns but then change them to a modern design. If we wanted a modern design then we would purchase that type of pattern but purchasing a vintage pattern would surely tell them that's the design you were after in the first place 😱🤯
I would rather you not waste your time and money making things you or most people can’t or won’t wear. I like seeing the differences in the patterns, it is enlightening. I like your content comparing patterns, going thru patterns and items you find and your sense of humor. 🥰❤️
When I first wanted to start sewing in my early teens the modern patterns broke my heart and I abandoned all sewing until a couple of years ago when I bought an original 1940's dress pattern. Everything seemed so easy and logical even for someone with little experience. So then I bought the repro pattern for these overalls as I couldn't find an original... the rage tantrums and quitting fits returned tenfold. I couldn't understand why until I discovered this video. (I also had the same experience with new vs vintage sewing machine. The brand new machine nearly gave me a nosebleed it made me so frustrated, the 50's Singer I picked up from a charity shop and fixed up myself works like a dream.) Lesson learned: Almost everything modern sucks. Thank you so much for this video xxx.
I am thinking that vintage also means the wearer was wearing era undergarments (bra). How much influence does modern bras play on the changes made to the 'new' version. I would want them unchanged but they are not.
OMG you are a JOY to watch. My experience with Simplicity's pattern making is buyer beware. I wrote to the company earlier this year because they forgot to grade one of the pattern pieces. Now, I know what I'm doing, so I feel really bad for the people who are just learning and think it's them...why would they think it's the pattern! You're awesome, I'm hooked :)
The more of these I watch the more I feel like swearing off vintage reproduction patterns. I think I will start going for primarily vintage patterns, and only occasionally buying new, with full knowledge that its not true vintage. The only new pattern I want is a set of sleeve shapes, beyond that, I will search and save for vintage, or pay independent reproduction companies, who actually reproduce true to life.
Oh my what a difference. What were they thinking? I am so glad you did this video so I can now alter my modern pattern to fit more like the vintage. You are doing great things for the sewing world, keep up the good work.
It's no wonder vintage clothes fit better, on my gosh! Thank you so much for this video, I did the "assume" thing, trusting the pattern company(s) were making exact reproductions of the originals. Hopefully I don't have too many of those, they all need to be used as fire starter. 🤣🤣👍 (That's just me.)
I'm late to this Party named Stephanie Canada but OMGosh am I glad to find you!! you as so awesome and entertaining and educational Been binge-watching to catch up thank you for making a day in my life brighter!
My home economics teacher told me about if people ever want the originals. That people would find out many companies wouldn't have them anymore. That's when I found out old patterns were valuable. She was a wealth of info. My mother had never used a sewing machine, so my teacher was great. She gave my a lifelong love of sewing.
It sounds like a lot of the liberties they took are themed around; 1) Not remembering that fabric rationing affected clothing design and 2) Overalls are a form of workwear. It's kinda funny, because I feel like it speaks a lot to the notion that whoever drafted the modern one is just very disconnected from what influenced the original design and why people would want a reproduction, vs. a modern re-design based on the idea of an old pattern. Like, for one; the tapered leg is very important for working around machinery and the hood is only suppose to be large enough to serve it's purpose. To someone without an understanding of the era, there might be a stylistic urge to exaggerate certain aspects for the sake of fashion, but this was literally a time and place where that was heavily against the design ethos that literally birthed the garment into existence in the first place. I would say that the eras (wherein sewing patterns existed) that would actually most enjoy exaggeration of their original design would probably be the Victorians/Edwardians, who had a "more is more" attitude to design/embellishment, where as later periods I think have a stronger sense of identity locked into exactly why and how things were done in the moment at that time.
This was so refreshing! I enjoy your humor and perspective! I’ve made the reproduction but had to make so many alterations to get it to look right, now I get why. Keep up the good work!
I hear about people complaining RUclips host talk to fast. You can slow down the video if that's an issue. Don't ever be ashamed, or embarrassed about this. It's better you understand what's being said as best you can. Also often turning on closed captions can help with this. If anyone want me to tell them how, let me, or someone know. It's not embarrassing. Never stop learning, & helping others.
Ahh - 😄 people who complain also don’t seem to realise it goes both ways: even Stephanie I usually have playing at least 1.25x speed. Some viewers are grateful to come across RUclipsrs who speak faster 🤷🏽♀️
@@ello_verity7667 yes, my husband sometimes needs to turn it slower, & he always has captions on. I however usually speed it up, unless we are watching together of course. What I had found was that a number of people didn't know they could do this. Everyone should play it at their own comfort level.
They really need to get a standard system for how to name these reproduction patterns because they really border on false advertisement. Like how videogames have ports and remasters and rereleases and we all know what they mean by that, they need to come up with terms for these patterns that make it obvious if you're getting a 1 to 1 rerelease or an "inspired by" pattern or a "we lost the original pattern 40 years ago but this is our best attempt at a faithful recreation" pattern.
The vintage overall waist looks like the pant & bodice are sewn with wrong-sides-together & then the seam allowance (which ends up on the outside of the finished garment) is covered & enclosed by the waistband. All the raw edges are enclosed. I’ve made the “repro” version - the bodice & pants don’t attach to each other - the bodice is enclosed within the two waistband pieces, the outer waistband piece attaches to the pants, then the inner waistband piece encloses the pants edge. It’s a neat way to enclose all the raw edges & avoid any edge finishing. It also makes the finished garment longer (if this makes sense?). Yes, they are baggy in the seat. And very snug at the waist & bust. ALSO - it takes a *lot* of effort to get all the buttons undone in a hurry. DO NOT cut it fine when going to the bathroom while wearing these. In hindsight, I would attach the shoulder straps in reverse, so they button up at the front. This would make them way easier to put on / take off.
I am so glad you chose this pattern! The reproduction version has been on my to do list forever. Will put more effort to find and trace the original. Love the original hood!
There is no such thing as a 23" waist except for 9 year olds and under. Love your show, great job its easy for a pattern to shapeshift with all the lines of the different sizes. Your incredibly good at reading institutions!
Politely disagree ... I was a 23-24" waist until I graduated college ... got married, went on the pill, gained 20 pounds. I am also 5'2" if I stretch very, very tall ... and in college, weighed 108 pounds. In the 1970s, this was considered normal weight for my height.
@@lizcademy4809 Lucky You! Seems most of us got 5 1/2 bigger waist when we went to high stress jobs and released too much cortisol.. Show off your small waist I would
@@proudtobeanamerican Oh, as soon as I had kids (and a now ex husband who was a serious cook) I lost my tiny waist fast! I only recently gained it back ... due to a major medical condition. [Currently stable] Trust me, I'd rather be 100% healthy with a 31" waist then be tiny with health issues. Being small and curvy is actually a problem in 2023. During the big Nordstrom sale, I had a personal shopper fill a dressing room 3 times over with clothes - only 3 items fit well enough to bring home. Sewing isn't much better ... I made up a free shirtdress pattern from a sample Patrones magazine (Spain), made the smallest size, altered the chest a bit ... and it's still a little large. I don't think even the smallest size Big 4 pattern would fit me ... and I'm not tiny compared to vintage patterns, I would probably need a 14 or 16.
Since the older pattern has been cut out, could it already have been personalized for the original purchaser? That might account for SOME of the differences. A short waisted person, or a very long waisted person, would not be comfortable in a garment designed for a "normally" proportioned person. I am "sway backed" and even on skirts I need to have my front waist lowered by almost 3.5 inches. Otherwise the front waist sits just below my bust and the back waist is in the right place on my body. I also have scoliosis which adds a whole other dimension to fitting clothes for myself.
What a great video third one I’ve watched.. your the only one whose figuring out the reproduction is not the same as original.. just watched three other channels struggling with the dress to make and wear for tea... everyone else is going thru hell wondering why it’s not working out for them... your a smart cookie to do comparisons with old and new ....
Uh oh, I just bought this pattern at the $2 Joanns sale! I'm excited and nervous to see the differences between the two patterns. At least I didn't pay much for it... Edit: ok, this might be sacrilegious but I kind of like the changes since I'm going for a slightly more modern fit. It's still really misleading to market it as a vintage reproduction pattern though.
Thank you so, SO much for this video! I've been stuck between buying the 8447 or a vintage reproduction for days, mostly because the glaring differences between the drawing and finished product on 8447's package was causing me so much anxiety. Since I want that straight-leg vintage look, I'll be tossing the 8447 out of my online cart and getting the vintage reproduction! You've saved a novice seamstress (me) from a terribly disappointing, discouraging fate!
I’m so happy I stopped sewing from modern repro patterns early in my sewing journey and switched to actually vintage patterns. Modern patterns scare me. I feel like I have no idea how they are going to turn out. Vintage patterns are so much more reliable.
I get it, the waist and all. The vintage pattern was meant to fit snugly in the waist with an elegant straight-falling pant leg and the modern pattern was meant to fit loosely at the waist with a slim-fitting pant leg (a completely different look).
Now that the 'Big Three' are just the Big One (and I'm sure their zeal for profit is not diminished) why haven't they issued a reproduction of any of the 49'er knockoff patterns? I've read the not so good reviews of Pendleton's pattern and would really rather have a vintage. However, I need what would equate to a 2x and my upsizing skills are super rusty. I've purchased a vintage Butterick 7338 in chest size 40 however it doesn't have the yummy sleeve cap pleat detail. Then I found the reproduction you reviewed in this video in hopes that I could just make it and get somewhat of a 49'ers vibe but drafted in my size. (Lazy much?) Now I'm not so sure I want to waste my time or muslin testing it. Thank you for this review and I completely don't blame you not making the recreation just for a video.
I'm surprised that, overall, these overalls aren't that bad! The neckline of the shirt is probably wider on the reproduction for the same reason the pants are longer: people tend to be larger now than in the 1940's. The curved, grown-on shirt facing probably sits nicely against the curves of the body in a way that a straight line just wouldn't. There are differences, sure, but I'm not mad at this one. Except for the hood - just why? Weird fabric marking tip: washable Crayola markers. They work on just about any colour that isn't black, they always wash out, and they're cheap and easy to find.
I made this blouse(modern version with the hood) as my 2nd ever sewing project, i cant imagine how short the vintage one was, the modern one is incredibly short and barely covers my waist, even using a facing to hem it. it was extremely confusing to make, I followed it up with a Victorian waistcoat that was a walk in the park in comparison.
This is the reason I took up quilting. The modern pattern of the walk away dress. Such a waste of cool fabric! Next thing you know, I have a whole new hobby
You do a lot of explaining, and I like the way you come to the point on your videos. I have done much sewing, and experienced much frustration in altering patterns so they would fit me. It was so much easier when I looked at the pattern pieces in terms of how they are shaped, and then drew those shapes out in proportion with my measurements. That worked out a whole lot better.
This was the first video of yours that I have seen, and I LOVE it! I've been sewing for 60 years, both vintage and modern patterns, and have always suspected/wondered about the differences. This is so, so, useful! I wished you had kept the camera longer on the overlapping pieces so I could really take in the differences in the overall shapes... some of the shots were so quick I had trouble even pausing the video to take a look. I wonder if you could have continued the voiceover while staying with the view of the patterns longer? And also added a zoomed-out view in some places. I liked the view of the top of the sleeve and the discussion of the height of the sleeve caps (geez!), but was also intrigued by the significant difference in the vintage pattern in the shape and length of the sleeve back...much bigger difference for the vintage. Would really fit the arm beautifully when combined with the less-deep armhole. I wanted to have a good look at the top of the pants from waist to just below the crotch level.... you show the side and the crotch seams separately, more briefly than I would have liked. All curvy sewists know this is the make-or-break seam in your pants. Also, I would have liked to see both at once just to take in the overall shape of the pants. I was especially interested in the shape of the crotch seams. You mention that the vintage gives more room, I think it's because of the more scooped out shape of the seam. Overlapping the crotch points and showing front and back together, with vintage over modern, would beautifully illustrate the different concepts of the shape of the crotch seam between vintage and modern. But as my gran used to say, Lord knows you can't do everything, and I applaud your work! Thank you!
That was an eye-opener and a bit depressing. To us, the logical thing would have been to pull it out archives, digitize it, and work the sizing a little. It's really not the hard, just takes some time and effort. Jeeze.
I am currently learning pattern drafting and plan on recreating some vintage styles that I love creating my own patterns so they fit me. As I'm researching vintage patterns, many would not fit my measurements, however, I'm still going to purchase them and then recreate the pattern for my size, then possibly resell what I purchased.
Around 23:00 in, your fury at the stupidity of modern patterns delighted me. I don't know anything about this topic. I'm not even really listening, this video just popped up and it's on for background noise. i had no idea this was an issue in sewing. i'm very curious about it now. thank you for sharing your passion.
I know this is totally beside the point, but I just wanted to say I think your hair colour is awesome in this two year old video 😍 (I have been binge watching your previous videos 😊)
I just heard of you today from Kaity Bower. She took the walkaway dress challenge. Now I've seen half a dozen of your videos. I am bingeing Stephanie Canada😎
Thank you for this! This pattern was the first pair of pants I made, and the sizing was so weird! I thought it was just me, but now I know the pattern wasn't helping any. Everything you showed that had a big difference between the two patterns fit me wrong 😒 Especially that waist!
I made the pants from the modern version and liked it, so was kind of worried the whole pattern was just wrong and horrible. But I appreciate your educational take on the differences and how to make the modern more period accurate.
I’m always looking for actual vintage patterns the trick is finding patterns that are your size, but I much prefer using real vintage patterns over the newer reproductions
I am with you! That is why I try to keep my eyes open for any pattern that is within 6" of my chest size. That is the MAX I can grade with any accuracy.
Thank you! A couple of days ago, I bought the reproduction pattern because I’d seen the blouse made up and it was lovely. I had no idea that there were so many differences in the original pattern and the reproduction pattern! From now on I’ll be on the lookout for the vintage patterns only. There’s always a but. In this case where do you look to fine the original pattern number, please?
i would like to say i am absolutely *fascinated* by both your knowledge of vintage patterns and their use, and by how much variation there is between actual vintage patterns and their reproductions. I can't say the difference surprises me, as we are all quite well aware that big companies want money above all and will happily cut corners wherever they can get away with it, but it is... sad? I'm not sure if that's exactly the word but it's the best i can figure at the moment. do they have ANY IDEA how much they could profit from making true-to-vintage reproductions? even if they have just an extra variation. "These are the Exact Copies of sizes we had patterns for, and the best approximation we could do for the ones we didn't! and THESE are the redrafts for something ~Inspired~ instead!" but of course they won't. that would require paying someone to carefully go through and trace over the patterns exactly, once per size, and that's so much more expensive than just having some underpaid employee make a knockoff of their own pattern.
Today women are taller, bigger, and heavier than women were during WWII. My guess is that they changed the hood so that it could be used as a real hood on a new woman. Yes. The pants would be wider on the vintage pattern; because, women were taught to be modest back then. I was taught to cover the shape of my big behind (if I didn't want to attract trouble or unwanted attention).
This is such an interesting video, I found you because I was googling this pattern after I had issues with the front facing for the overall bib being over an inch too short on one side. I thought it might have been a mistake I made, but after lining up the actual pattern pieces I realised it was a patterning issue. I don’t know if it is only for the size I made or if I got a dodgy batch 🤷🏻♀️ Regardless, I learnt so much from this video about things I wasn’t even looking for so thank you.
Thank you for this video!!! I just bought the 8447 for the trousers and wish I did more research and found your video first. *face palm* I’m hoping they accept returns so I can order the EvaDress 3322 copy on Etsy (they have even graded to larger sizes that fit my chunky 48 inch hips, haha). BUT, worse case scenario, I may be able to Frankenstein and draft my own pattern using the 8447 and your details from the video so thank you bunches!
I made this one - outta bargain left on the bolt denim from Walmart, heh! It was a decent finish - I DID employ my new ovi's for yard work/ shop cleaning - and they ARE comfortable, have weathered ok... One thing I DID do, was go with a size up - because the gal on the photo looked as if she could hardly breathe - those buttons down the front were going to pop! I do get tons of compliments however - "how CUTE!" (WELL, they're my yard work digs...) "I LOVE that vintage look (well - it IS a repro...) eh...
Of course I loved the content- but I am also glad you are savvy about funding/financing projects because RUclips btw Savvy is from the French C'va just like olde english term for a Ladies Pot Gaudyloo is from the French Regardez Leau
Ok I stumbled across your videos and I felt the need to point out that your energetic way of talking reminded me of Donna Noble from Doctor Who, which I adore, so I hope you don't take it the wrong way at all, I say it as a cumpliment, also, I find your videos very entertaining even though I'm in no way near to the level of purchesing a vintage pattern, I'm still on a learning process
Love your videos! You could create these comparisons in half scale using muslin to save on time and materials and then if those videos gain traction, invest the funds into doing one of the more popular designs in full scale. I’d LOVE to see a comparison of the walk away vintage pattern vs its modern adaptation.
I enjoyed this comparison especially, because I have the repro pattern and would like to make the trousers. What I'm starting to think might be a better option though, is the EvaDress version, which would at least be proportioned in comparison to the vintage pattern. Would you ever consider doing a comparison between a true vintage and a re-grade? (or whatever is the proper name for what those type of companies do).
Hey Chica, hope this finds you well. Thanks for your videos, your my new hero! I am struggling with my vintage situation. I noticed there are numbers in the patterns and the instructions does not give actual directions how to piece it together… unless I’m missing it. Can you help a sister out. Thanks. I would like to send a picture but I’m old and not computer savvy.
Haven't watched the video yet, just have to say as soon as I saw the thumbnail my brain resurrected from it's deepest recesses the Reproduction song from Grease 2. Re-pro-DUC-tion, REPRODUCTION! ...... Oh Michelle Pfeiffer....why?
Seriously, what is with modern fashion houses and "armseyes" (sorry I don't know the spelling) big enough to fit an oak tree? It ends up restricting movement instead of improving it. Every shirt I've sewn had to have them moved way up by at least an inch and I do not have small arms to begin with.
I'm really confused because I just bought from the S8447 pattern that says "Vintage 1940's" in size 6-14 US. The envelope has a vintage look with only 1 person, (no Rosie the riveter picture.) The instructions look like your modern instructions on 1st glance. I'm concerned that if I cut the pieces out, they won't match up. I will proceed with expectation that things may not match up and be okay with modifications. Thanks for sharing!!
Omg that good is so messed up. If you could lay it on top of a half inch or one inch grid paper. I would be able to draft it alot better. For me personally anyways. Love your videos and the and the vintage comparisons are amazing
Thank you for tuning into another episode of Vintage vs. Reproduction! If you enjoy this kind of content and want to see the final version made up, please consider heading to my Ko-Fi account and donating to that end: ko-fi.com/stephaniecanada
I would love to see a comparison between genuine vintage and reproducer Lady Marlowe on Etsy. I absolutely adore her patterns. I would love to know the differences, if any, of her patterns as well. She also has this specific overall pattern.
@@evergreenfaerieknots hi Heidi! As I know most of the vintage sellers and reproducers, I know how much work they put in to make them as close as possible to the original. My goal in these is not to go against my community of small sellers and reproducers. My goal is to showcase how poorly the big 4 deal with these “reproductions”.
This is such an interesting video! Thank you so much for making it I really appreciate it!
BUY THEM BACK SO YOU CAN DO IT RIGHT ((awkward disappearing simplicity executives))
I LAUGHED SO LOUD.
I’m imagining that Homer Simpson gif where he’s fading back into the brushes.
Also, man, I would pay quite a bit for a mostly accurate version of the vintage pattern that would fit my 44 inch waist, lol.
Oh my goodness yes!!!!!!
It doesn’t exist darling, gotta grade up🥲
I think part of the difference is the original was meant to be workwear, so it was more practical. Hence the waistband with no exposed seam and extra movement in the pants. But the modern one is 'fashion.'
This is very useful - because I want them as work wear not fashion lol
Also the vintage is designed to use less fabric
It’s like they didn’t even bother to look at the original, just thought, “Eh, close enough.” Simplicity should be ashamed. They could do better. You should be their consultant so you could tell them, “WTF are you thinking??”
Right? They need someone to slap them.
"This is why I have Trust Issues."
Honestly, what are these men thinking. Oh, wait. The thinking function has been uninstalled...
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
@@stevezytveld6585Imo they have seen the demand for vintage patterns on eBay, Etsy etc and wanted to cash in on it whilst exerting as little effort as possible.
Ah, my favorite pant pet peeve -- the pegged pant leg. Making our butts look bigger in a bad way for thirty years.
This reminds me of that Christopher Titus bit about Capri pants "what jedi mind trick was pulled to make women think these look good we're going to give you a piece of fabric that makes your butt look wider, your legs look shorter and your feet look bigger"
Thank you so much for this! I now understand why my house was all over the place and the pants of the overalls were just not even…ugh. This is why I had to basically re-draft the whole pattern. If i had known that the reproductions were not reissues, i would have shelled out the extra money and then just resized the pattern to fit me.
I learned the hard way too. 🤷🏻♀️
This is so useful for me - I bought the pattern a couple months ago but hadn't got to making it yet... at least now I know some differences to make!
Just compare the patterns. I’m with you regarding small carbon footprint.
I think your theory about the hood being missing is correct. The other thing is that modern clothing has different wearing ease because undergarments. I’m willing to bet that the modern version was drafted to account for modern undergarments and for modern style lines rather than as a direct reprint. It’s “inspired”, lol.
I’ve made up the modern hooded top. The hood is DEEP. Vintage hoods barely cover the top of the head when worn.
Oh yeah... one more thing... Simplicity is an oxymoron. Worst (modern) patterns ever. Too bad they are ubiquitous.
Still, they could have looked at some other period sources. The Pictorial Guide to Modern Home Dressmaking has drafting instructions for a hood which would have given more accurate shape and proportions, even though it would still not have matched the vintage pattern exactly.
I can confirm the missing hood hypothesis as I bought this authentic vintage pattern and the front illustration shows it as having the hood but in the back pattern piece layout diagram its missing. I spoke to some pattern enthusiasts who said that it was a later release (still in the 1940s though) that for some reason they decided to omit the hood but didn't change the front illustration to reflect that. For who knows what reason - shifting trends? But perhaps Simplicity was donated the later version for their repro. Also second the company buying back their own patterns. Asking for donations is hilariously lame.
My mother had decades of old patterns filling an entire old chest-of-drawer. One day when she decided she was too old and arthritic to sew anymore, she burned them all. They were hers to do what she wanted, but I was really disappointed she didn't ask if I wanted any of them before she disposed of them. My sister, who sews very well, was so upset she wouldn't speak to mother for months and months. Old, vintage, patterns have more than simple sewing uses. They are history and a historical collection of life of the person or people they belong to. Never underestimate the power of a pattern!
So sad! My aunt threw out all my grandma's sewing things. It made me so upset no one asked me, but that's what I get for moving out of state.
So sad
The last Simplicity pattern I used was a pair of maternity pants - that child is now 25. I will never use another pattern from them.
I knew their patterns had a lot of ease, so I chose a size smaller than the envelope said. I also have large thighs in proportion to my waist and hips. So I expected the pants to need a little altering. I machine basted the leg seams, tried them on, and ... I ended up slimming the legs down by about 4"! Keep in mind I was already making a smaller size than they suggested ... they still fit like clown pants, and I was happy to get rid of them when I gave birth.
I also made up a pair of maternity pants from Burda, [This was before they were bought by Simplicity - the patterns were printed in German.] I made up the size suggested, no alterations ... they were one of the best fitting pairs of pants I ever owned. If I need a pattern for something modern, I look to Burda first - the magazine, not the individual patterns.
FYI, Burda occasionally publishes vintage patterns in their magazine. It would be interesting to see any changes ... but you need a degree in Engineering or Mathematics to figure out Burda magazine patterns, I would never wish that on Stephanie!
With how much Stephanie hates multi size patterns, I think her head may explode trying to figure out a Burda magazine pattern lol, you nailed it when you said you need a degree to figure them out
I started to find in the 80s that patterns started to be way bigger than the real measurements. Started with McCalls and spread to the rest. When I do find an old pattern which have my measurements they always work.
I have a ton of old patterns from my youth. Have made clothing for my children with them when they were teens.
Unfortunately if I ever reach my old size again I will be too old to sew.
I made a sun dress a few years back. Went one size group down. Used the smallest size. Exact same problem as you. Way too big.
@@dawnelder9046 I actually have shrunk down to my pre-kid size ... a major medical problem will do that. [Under control now.] There are a lot of my 1980s patterns that would fit me again - and I never liked high fashion, so they wouldn't look weird, either.
For modern patterns, I try to avoid Big 4. But when I don't I ignore their size suggestions.
1. I use my high bust measure instead of the pattern's full bust, and plan to make a FBA. [Currently a size 30H bra.]
2. I buy the pattern where my high bust is either near the top of the size range or one size group down.
3. At home, I open the tissue and measure off the shoulder, full bust, waist, hip (whatever needs to fit well). This will include ease and seam allowance.
4. Subtract the seam allowance
5. I then compare the tissue to a similar item in my closet, and pick the closest size to something that fits me well.
For example, if a shirt pattern's total bust size minus seam allowance is 38-40-42-44, and a similar shirt in my closet measures 38, I'll make up the smallest size ... even if they claim that is for a 30" bust.
More commonly, I just use a European pattern. I find working with Burda magazine pattern map insanity easier than trying to adjust a Big 4 pattern.
This explains why I always look at the finished garments from the modern one and think that the pant legs don’t look as wide a 40’s look!
The comparison is enough for me, I am happy to see the pattern pieces, not many of us a standard size. We can then decide whether we want to buy the pattern/s.
Birdy
THIS is why I'm so glad I taught myself patter drafting. The mathematics of the 19th century drafting gives you a garment that need almost no adjustments. PLUS you get an armscye that allows you to MOVE.
Sorry to be so late to the party, but I only just FOUND you. Thank you for existing.
I recently bought a suit from the 1940s that just happened to be made to my exact measurements and I was AMAZED at how comfortable it was. I immediately started swinging my arms in huge circles ...it felt like I had discovered some sort of suit design secret. I'm learning drafting and plan to recreate that suit pattern.
The 'tailors tacks make you old' made me laugh. You're vintage not old lol. I don't tailor tack but I hand fell most of my seams that don't get French seamed or enclosed which is probably bonkers to most people. I figure everyone who sews has a technique quirk or two 🤷♀️
another tailor's tacker here (it's what my mum taught me!) Have also just finished a UFO shirt (it was cut out this time last year)... French seams for the sides and underarm, hand-felled for the sleeve heads, hand-stitched the inner yoke fronts and inner collar stand (because it's less fiddly than messing around with the "burrito" method). Classic shirt shape, pure linen.
@@catherinerw1 Good on you! I bet your work is beautiful
@@rebeccaturner8340 Thank you. Doing "proper" finishing slows me down... reduces my fabric spend! (As well as clothes then coping well in the wash).
@@catherinerw1 I'm another one who uses tailor's tacks. I also baste before sewing seams etc. The couple of minutes it takes is worth it and then not having to pull out pins as I go. It probably also saves me money on needles as I just know that I'd miss a pin every now and again.
@@expatpiskie I must admit I do sew over pins, depends on the fabric if I tack/baste or not. Squiggly viscose jersey... every time! I must admit I don’t see the point of machine basting (except for zips, to loosely close the seam first); other than that, hand basting makes much more sense! Better control apart from anything else. (No I haven’t made friends with WonderClips).
My husband, who I honestly didn’t know was paying attention as he was reading manga next to me: Wait, those aren’t even close to similar!
My vintage wish seller on Etsy has a digitized pdf pattern of the vintage version! It’s size 32” bust. I just finished making the blouse with the vintage pattern and it looks great! What I liked about this pattern is the versatility. There’s a blouse with long sleeves or short sleeves, a collar or hood, trousers or overalls! All in one pattern! Also the 1940s hood is such a hilarious concept to me because is it comfy? Is it dressy? Who knows! 😂 anyways great video and glad I bought the vintage version.
Yes, there are a few folks that have reproduced this original vintage pattern. And honestly, I always say to try those out before the big 4.
Wow your video has definitely opened my eyes with regards to vintage and the new modern versions. I never realised they would be so different 😔
I am still trying to get my head around how these pattern companies want to reprint vintage sewing patterns but then change them to a modern design. If we wanted a modern design then we would purchase that type of pattern but purchasing a vintage pattern would surely tell them that's the design you were after in the first place 😱🤯
I'd love to see a comparison for one of the newer Butterick releases they're stamping as "authentic", like B6369
“Yes raffle them off!!”
- one of said folks
I love the raffle idea!
I would rather you not waste your time and money making things you or most people can’t or won’t wear. I like seeing the differences in the patterns, it is enlightening. I like your content comparing patterns, going thru patterns and items you find and your sense of humor. 🥰❤️
When I first wanted to start sewing in my early teens the modern patterns broke my heart and I abandoned all sewing until a couple of years ago when I bought an original 1940's dress pattern. Everything seemed so easy and logical even for someone with little experience. So then I bought the repro pattern for these overalls as I couldn't find an original... the rage tantrums and quitting fits returned tenfold. I couldn't understand why until I discovered this video.
(I also had the same experience with new vs vintage sewing machine. The brand new machine nearly gave me a nosebleed it made me so frustrated, the 50's Singer I picked up from a charity shop and fixed up myself works like a dream.)
Lesson learned: Almost everything modern sucks.
Thank you so much for this video xxx.
I am thinking that vintage also means the wearer was wearing era undergarments (bra). How much influence does modern bras play on the changes made to the 'new' version. I would want them unchanged but they are not.
Lots of other RUclipsrs do sewing demos. I love your pattern analysis. Your passion matches mine so I feel validated 🥰 Keep doing you!
OMG you are a JOY to watch. My experience with Simplicity's pattern making is buyer beware. I wrote to the company earlier this year because they forgot to grade one of the pattern pieces. Now, I know what I'm doing, so I feel really bad for the people who are just learning and think it's them...why would they think it's the pattern!
You're awesome, I'm hooked :)
I'm watch/listening to this whilst sewing.
Doing SO good on my lines.
Suddenly, the horror:
"How long have I been sewing without a bobbin thread?"
This ALWAYS HAPPENS TO ME!
The more of these I watch the more I feel like swearing off vintage reproduction patterns. I think I will start going for primarily vintage patterns, and only occasionally buying new, with full knowledge that its not true vintage. The only new pattern I want is a set of sleeve shapes, beyond that, I will search and save for vintage, or pay independent reproduction companies, who actually reproduce true to life.
Oh my what a difference. What were they thinking? I am so glad you did this video so I can now alter my modern pattern to fit more like the vintage. You are doing great things for the sewing world, keep up the good work.
I think these videos are so helpful no matter what you are sewing. I learn a lot from the way you break it down. Love it!
It's no wonder vintage clothes fit better, on my gosh! Thank you so much for this video, I did the "assume" thing, trusting the pattern company(s) were making exact reproductions of the originals. Hopefully I don't have too many of those, they all need to be used as fire starter. 🤣🤣👍 (That's just me.)
I'm late to this Party named Stephanie Canada but OMGosh am I glad to find you!! you as so awesome and entertaining and educational Been binge-watching to catch up thank you for making a day in my life brighter!
My home economics teacher told me about if people ever want the originals. That people would find out many companies wouldn't have them anymore. That's when I found out old patterns were valuable. She was a wealth of info. My mother had never used a sewing machine, so my teacher was great. She gave my a lifelong love of sewing.
Sell the finished garment! Wow!! Great idea!!
It sounds like a lot of the liberties they took are themed around; 1) Not remembering that fabric rationing affected clothing design and 2) Overalls are a form of workwear. It's kinda funny, because I feel like it speaks a lot to the notion that whoever drafted the modern one is just very disconnected from what influenced the original design and why people would want a reproduction, vs. a modern re-design based on the idea of an old pattern. Like, for one; the tapered leg is very important for working around machinery and the hood is only suppose to be large enough to serve it's purpose. To someone without an understanding of the era, there might be a stylistic urge to exaggerate certain aspects for the sake of fashion, but this was literally a time and place where that was heavily against the design ethos that literally birthed the garment into existence in the first place.
I would say that the eras (wherein sewing patterns existed) that would actually most enjoy exaggeration of their original design would probably be the Victorians/Edwardians, who had a "more is more" attitude to design/embellishment, where as later periods I think have a stronger sense of identity locked into exactly why and how things were done in the moment at that time.
Said SO beautifully!
This was so refreshing! I enjoy your humor and perspective! I’ve made the reproduction but had to make so many alterations to get it to look right, now I get why. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much Kate! I am happy to help!
Oh my God, this was informative AND delightful! You are hysterical and very, very good at presenting in an accessible manner.
Thank you so much! I really am trying to help folks who may have sunk a fair amount into the reproductions, not knowing they aren't legit.
I hear about people complaining RUclips host talk to fast. You can slow down the video if that's an issue. Don't ever be ashamed, or embarrassed about this. It's better you understand what's being said as best you can. Also often turning on closed captions can help with this. If anyone want me to tell them how, let me, or someone know. It's not embarrassing. Never stop learning, & helping others.
Ahh - 😄 people who complain also don’t seem to realise it goes both ways: even Stephanie I usually have playing at least 1.25x speed. Some viewers are grateful to come across RUclipsrs who speak faster 🤷🏽♀️
@@ello_verity7667 yes, my husband sometimes needs to turn it slower, & he always has captions on. I however usually speed it up, unless we are watching together of course. What I had found was that a number of people didn't know they could do this. Everyone should play it at their own comfort level.
@@zeusathena26 that's very true, I hope anyone who didn't know they could sees your comment ☺
They really need to get a standard system for how to name these reproduction patterns because they really border on false advertisement. Like how videogames have ports and remasters and rereleases and we all know what they mean by that, they need to come up with terms for these patterns that make it obvious if you're getting a 1 to 1 rerelease or an "inspired by" pattern or a "we lost the original pattern 40 years ago but this is our best attempt at a faithful recreation" pattern.
The vintage overall waist looks like the pant & bodice are sewn with wrong-sides-together & then the seam allowance (which ends up on the outside of the finished garment) is covered & enclosed by the waistband. All the raw edges are enclosed.
I’ve made the “repro” version - the bodice & pants don’t attach to each other - the bodice is enclosed within the two waistband pieces, the outer waistband piece attaches to the pants, then the inner waistband piece encloses the pants edge. It’s a neat way to enclose all the raw edges & avoid any edge finishing. It also makes the finished garment longer (if this makes sense?). Yes, they are baggy in the seat. And very snug at the waist & bust.
ALSO - it takes a *lot* of effort to get all the buttons undone in a hurry. DO NOT cut it fine when going to the bathroom while wearing these. In hindsight, I would attach the shoulder straps in reverse, so they button up at the front. This would make them way easier to put on / take off.
I am so glad you chose this pattern! The reproduction version has been on my to do list forever. Will put more effort to find and trace the original. Love the original hood!
This gave me the giggles, I just love it. You need to do more of these episodes in this series.
There is no such thing as a 23" waist except for 9 year olds and under. Love your show, great job its easy for a pattern to shapeshift with all the lines of the different sizes. Your incredibly good at reading institutions!
Politely disagree ... I was a 23-24" waist until I graduated college ... got married, went on the pill, gained 20 pounds.
I am also 5'2" if I stretch very, very tall ... and in college, weighed 108 pounds. In the 1970s, this was considered normal weight for my height.
@@lizcademy4809 Lucky You! Seems most of us got 5 1/2 bigger waist when we went to high stress jobs and released too much cortisol.. Show off your small waist I would
@@proudtobeanamerican Oh, as soon as I had kids (and a now ex husband who was a serious cook) I lost my tiny waist fast!
I only recently gained it back ... due to a major medical condition. [Currently stable] Trust me, I'd rather be 100% healthy with a 31" waist then be tiny with health issues.
Being small and curvy is actually a problem in 2023. During the big Nordstrom sale, I had a personal shopper fill a dressing room 3 times over with clothes - only 3 items fit well enough to bring home. Sewing isn't much better ... I made up a free shirtdress pattern from a sample Patrones magazine (Spain), made the smallest size, altered the chest a bit ... and it's still a little large. I don't think even the smallest size Big 4 pattern would fit me ... and I'm not tiny compared to vintage patterns, I would probably need a 14 or 16.
@@lizcademy4809That's because you were literally not developed all the way yet. Women don't stop developing until their mid 20s.
@@kaitlynnave9738 At which point I had a 25" waist.
Some people are just petite and skinny. Nothing wrong with them!
Since the older pattern has been cut out, could it already have been personalized for the original purchaser? That might account for SOME of the differences. A short waisted person, or a very long waisted person, would not be comfortable in a garment designed for a "normally" proportioned person. I am "sway backed" and even on skirts I need to have my front waist lowered by almost 3.5 inches. Otherwise the front waist sits just below my bust and the back waist is in the right place on my body. I also have scoliosis which adds a whole other dimension to fitting clothes for myself.
Fab job as always. You definitely deserve more subscribers!
What a great video third one I’ve watched.. your the only one whose figuring out the reproduction is not the same as original.. just watched three other channels struggling with the dress to make and wear for tea... everyone else is going thru hell wondering why it’s not working out for them... your a smart cookie to do comparisons with old and new ....
Uh oh, I just bought this pattern at the $2 Joanns sale! I'm excited and nervous to see the differences between the two patterns. At least I didn't pay much for it...
Edit: ok, this might be sacrilegious but I kind of like the changes since I'm going for a slightly more modern fit. It's still really misleading to market it as a vintage reproduction pattern though.
Thank you so, SO much for this video! I've been stuck between buying the 8447 or a vintage reproduction for days, mostly because the glaring differences between the drawing and finished product on 8447's package was causing me so much anxiety. Since I want that straight-leg vintage look, I'll be tossing the 8447 out of my online cart and getting the vintage reproduction! You've saved a novice seamstress (me) from a terribly disappointing, discouraging fate!
I’m so happy I stopped sewing from modern repro patterns early in my sewing journey and switched to actually vintage patterns. Modern patterns scare me. I feel like I have no idea how they are going to turn out. Vintage patterns are so much more reliable.
I get it, the waist and all. The vintage pattern was meant to fit snugly in the waist with an elegant straight-falling pant leg and the modern pattern was meant to fit loosely at the waist with a slim-fitting pant leg (a completely different look).
Now that the 'Big Three' are just the Big One (and I'm sure their zeal for profit is not diminished) why haven't they issued a reproduction of any of the 49'er knockoff patterns? I've read the not so good reviews of Pendleton's pattern and would really rather have a vintage. However, I need what would equate to a 2x and my upsizing skills are super rusty. I've purchased a vintage Butterick 7338 in chest size 40 however it doesn't have the yummy sleeve cap pleat detail. Then I found the reproduction you reviewed in this video in hopes that I could just make it and get somewhat of a 49'ers vibe but drafted in my size. (Lazy much?) Now I'm not so sure I want to waste my time or muslin testing it. Thank you for this review and I completely don't blame you not making the recreation just for a video.
The patterns are so different from each other, I don’t know how they can say they are the same at all.
I'm surprised that, overall, these overalls aren't that bad! The neckline of the shirt is probably wider on the reproduction for the same reason the pants are longer: people tend to be larger now than in the 1940's. The curved, grown-on shirt facing probably sits nicely against the curves of the body in a way that a straight line just wouldn't. There are differences, sure, but I'm not mad at this one. Except for the hood - just why?
Weird fabric marking tip: washable Crayola markers. They work on just about any colour that isn't black, they always wash out, and they're cheap and easy to find.
I made this blouse(modern version with the hood) as my 2nd ever sewing project, i cant imagine how short the vintage one was, the modern one is incredibly short and barely covers my waist, even using a facing to hem it. it was extremely confusing to make, I followed it up with a Victorian waistcoat that was a walk in the park in comparison.
I think that auctioning off your UFO would help new sewers out. I also agree that without reusing the fabric would be a waist.
This is the reason I took up quilting. The modern pattern of the walk away dress. Such a waste of cool fabric! Next thing you know, I have a whole new hobby
I have this! I will use the info to help me sew these overalls (I have the reproduction)
You do a lot of explaining, and I like the way you come to the point on your videos. I have done much sewing, and experienced much frustration in altering patterns so they would fit me. It was so much easier when I looked at the pattern pieces in terms of how they are shaped, and then drew those shapes out in proportion with my measurements. That worked out a whole lot better.
This was the first video of yours that I have seen, and I LOVE it! I've been sewing for 60 years, both vintage and modern patterns, and have always suspected/wondered about the differences. This is so, so, useful! I wished you had kept the camera longer on the overlapping pieces so I could really take in the differences in the overall shapes... some of the shots were so quick I had trouble even pausing the video to take a look. I wonder if you could have continued the voiceover while staying with the view of the patterns longer? And also added a zoomed-out view in some places. I liked the view of the top of the sleeve and the discussion of the height of the sleeve caps (geez!), but was also intrigued by the significant difference in the vintage pattern in the shape and length of the sleeve back...much bigger difference for the vintage. Would really fit the arm beautifully when combined with the less-deep armhole. I wanted to have a good look at the top of the pants from waist to just below the crotch level.... you show the side and the crotch seams separately, more briefly than I would have liked. All curvy sewists know this is the make-or-break seam in your pants. Also, I would have liked to see both at once just to take in the overall shape of the pants. I was especially interested in the shape of the crotch seams. You mention that the vintage gives more room, I think it's because of the more scooped out shape of the seam. Overlapping the crotch points and showing front and back together, with vintage over modern, would beautifully illustrate the different concepts of the shape of the crotch seam between vintage and modern. But as my gran used to say, Lord knows you can't do everything, and I applaud your work! Thank you!
If you go to NJ or NY you speak at the perfect pace!
i love your comparisons!
That was an eye-opener and a bit depressing. To us, the logical thing would have been to pull it out archives, digitize it, and work the sizing a little. It's really not the hard, just takes some time and effort. Jeeze.
I am currently learning pattern drafting and plan on recreating some vintage styles that I love creating my own patterns so they fit me. As I'm researching vintage patterns, many would not fit my measurements, however, I'm still going to purchase them and then recreate the pattern for my size, then possibly resell what I purchased.
I'm working on doing the exact same thing! My goal is to release a line of vintage plus size patterns
Good idea.
I was so excited when I first saw reproduced vintage patterns. You know - back when I thought they were REPRODUCTIONS.
I didn't know they weren't actually true repros ! So I was excited but now not so much
@@ah5721 Exactly - it's such a disappointment 😟
Around 23:00 in, your fury at the stupidity of modern patterns delighted me. I don't know anything about this topic. I'm not even really listening, this video just popped up and it's on for background noise. i had no idea this was an issue in sewing. i'm very curious about it now. thank you for sharing your passion.
OMG! This pattern disappointed the hell out of me and now I know why. I will try again because I like the style but boy, was I mad!💥
I know this is totally beside the point, but I just wanted to say I think your hair colour is awesome in this two year old video 😍 (I have been binge watching your previous videos 😊)
I just heard of you today from Kaity Bower. She took the walkaway dress challenge. Now I've seen half a dozen of your videos. I am bingeing Stephanie Canada😎
Thank you for this! This pattern was the first pair of pants I made, and the sizing was so weird! I thought it was just me, but now I know the pattern wasn't helping any. Everything you showed that had a big difference between the two patterns fit me wrong 😒 Especially that waist!
Thank you for doing this. I love your discussion and your history lessons. Thank again!
I made the pants from the modern version and liked it, so was kind of worried the whole pattern was just wrong and horrible. But I appreciate your educational take on the differences and how to make the modern more period accurate.
I’m always looking for actual vintage patterns the trick is finding patterns that are your size, but I much prefer using real vintage patterns over the newer reproductions
I am with you! That is why I try to keep my eyes open for any pattern that is within 6" of my chest size. That is the MAX I can grade with any accuracy.
Thank you! A couple of days ago, I bought the reproduction pattern because I’d seen the blouse made up and it was lovely. I had no idea that there were so many differences in the original pattern and the reproduction pattern! From now on I’ll be on the lookout for the vintage patterns only. There’s always a but. In this case where do you look to fine the original pattern number, please?
Oof I’m so glad I saw this before I sewed this 😭 I have the repro version and thought the hood piece looked funky😅
i would like to say i am absolutely *fascinated* by both your knowledge of vintage patterns and their use, and by how much variation there is between actual vintage patterns and their reproductions. I can't say the difference surprises me, as we are all quite well aware that big companies want money above all and will happily cut corners wherever they can get away with it, but it is... sad? I'm not sure if that's exactly the word but it's the best i can figure at the moment. do they have ANY IDEA how much they could profit from making true-to-vintage reproductions? even if they have just an extra variation. "These are the Exact Copies of sizes we had patterns for, and the best approximation we could do for the ones we didn't! and THESE are the redrafts for something ~Inspired~ instead!"
but of course they won't. that would require paying someone to carefully go through and trace over the patterns exactly, once per size, and that's so much more expensive than just having some underpaid employee make a knockoff of their own pattern.
Today women are taller, bigger, and heavier than women were during WWII. My guess is that they changed the hood so that it could be used as a real hood on a new woman. Yes. The pants would be wider on the vintage pattern; because, women were taught to be modest back then. I was taught to cover the shape of my big behind (if I didn't want to attract trouble or unwanted attention).
This is such an interesting video, I found you because I was googling this pattern after I had issues with the front facing for the overall bib being over an inch too short on one side. I thought it might have been a mistake I made, but after lining up the actual pattern pieces I realised it was a patterning issue. I don’t know if it is only for the size I made or if I got a dodgy batch 🤷🏻♀️ Regardless, I learnt so much from this video about things I wasn’t even looking for so thank you.
oh no! I own this. good to know ahead of time. I was already gonna have to adjust for my height. now I know about the shape too!
Thank you for this video!!! I just bought the 8447 for the trousers and wish I did more research and found your video first. *face palm*
I’m hoping they accept returns so I can order the EvaDress 3322 copy on Etsy (they have even graded to larger sizes that fit my chunky 48 inch hips, haha). BUT, worse case scenario, I may be able to Frankenstein and draft my own pattern using the 8447 and your details from the video so thank you bunches!
You are SO welcome! I am happy to help any way that I can.
wow they are really leaning in into the costume aspect here. Modern fit with ~* the general idea *~ of the decade.
I was really shocked at the differences between the old and repro'd Walk Away Dress!
I would love the raffled vaguely completed garment
I made this one - outta bargain left on the bolt denim from Walmart, heh! It was a decent finish - I DID employ my new ovi's for yard work/ shop cleaning - and they ARE comfortable, have weathered ok...
One thing I DID do, was go with a size up - because the gal on the photo looked as if she could hardly breathe - those buttons down the front were going to pop! I do get tons of compliments however - "how CUTE!" (WELL, they're my yard work digs...) "I LOVE that vintage look (well - it IS a repro...) eh...
Of course I loved the content- but I am also glad you are savvy about funding/financing projects because RUclips
btw Savvy is from the French C'va just like olde english term for a Ladies Pot Gaudyloo is from the French Regardez Leau
Ok I stumbled across your videos and I felt the need to point out that your energetic way of talking reminded me of Donna Noble from Doctor Who, which I adore, so I hope you don't take it the wrong way at all, I say it as a cumpliment, also, I find your videos very entertaining even though I'm in no way near to the level of purchesing a vintage pattern, I'm still on a learning process
Love your videos! You could create these comparisons in half scale using muslin to save on time and materials and then if those videos gain traction, invest the funds into doing one of the more popular designs in full scale. I’d LOVE to see a comparison of the walk away vintage pattern vs its modern adaptation.
So glad I am not the only person yelling WHYYYYYY!!!
I enjoyed this comparison especially, because I have the repro pattern and would like to make the trousers. What I'm starting to think might be a better option though, is the EvaDress version, which would at least be proportioned in comparison to the vintage pattern. Would you ever consider doing a comparison between a true vintage and a re-grade? (or whatever is the proper name for what those type of companies do).
i was just thinking about requesting these ones!
I enjoyed the video.
Hey Chica, hope this finds you well. Thanks for your videos, your my new hero! I am struggling with my vintage situation. I noticed there are numbers in the patterns and the instructions does not give actual directions how to piece it together… unless I’m missing it. Can you help a sister out. Thanks. I would like to send a picture but I’m old and not computer savvy.
Yes yes yes to a raffle!
Am enjoying these videos. I have this repro pattern. I assumed the repros were copies of the originals, just sized more currently.
I like that you always think of the carbon footprint. Not enough of that going around!
Haven't watched the video yet, just have to say as soon as I saw the thumbnail my brain resurrected from it's deepest recesses the Reproduction song from Grease 2. Re-pro-DUC-tion, REPRODUCTION! ...... Oh Michelle Pfeiffer....why?
I like the current format. It is very obvious the changes this way.
Seriously, what is with modern fashion houses and "armseyes" (sorry I don't know the spelling) big enough to fit an oak tree? It ends up restricting movement instead of improving it. Every shirt I've sewn had to have them moved way up by at least an inch and I do not have small arms to begin with.
I'm really confused because I just bought from the S8447 pattern that says "Vintage 1940's" in size 6-14 US. The envelope has a vintage look with only 1 person, (no Rosie the riveter picture.) The instructions look like your modern instructions on 1st glance. I'm concerned that if I cut the pieces out, they won't match up. I will proceed with expectation that things may not match up and be okay with modifications. Thanks for sharing!!
Omg that good is so messed up. If you could lay it on top of a half inch or one inch grid paper. I would be able to draft it alot better. For me personally anyways. Love your videos and the and the vintage comparisons are amazing
I agree! Laid on grid paper, or even a rotary mat would help IMMENSELY!!!
Even if not drafting, having it on a grid would really help see the difference in size
I love your content just as it is.
Watching this the second time around while looking through the instructions... it's probably going to be a few times through haha