Protect Your Subwoofer With This Cheap Device!
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- QINLIANF HR-519D: amzn.to/3SHr9qU
order it in black: amzn.to/3f4CHFL
MSRP: $19.99
• 5 outlet, 4 usb ports
• 3 level complementary Surge Protector Circuit which composed of TVS, MOV (metal oxide varistor), GDT (gas discharge tube), with minimum 1680J energy absorbing capacity, could protect your devices much more quickly and reliably than other brand’s 1 level MOV(metal oxide varistor) Surge Protection Circuits.
• ETL Certified， 30-day return and 12-month replacement .
• Aside from the body that issues the listing, there is absolutely no difference between a UL listing and an ETL listing. Because Intertek ETL tests products to previously published UL Standards for Safety, products marked as ETL Listed meet exactly the same criteria as those marked UL Listed or UL Recognized.
► Disclaimer: This device is rated to 15A so if your circuit is 20A or higher, you may have to consider a different device rated to 20A. The manufacturer recommends NOT connecting a single device that consumes more than 1kwatt of continuously rated power. In such cases, you may need to choose a product that can handle more power.
Buy this Surge Device to Protect Your Sub: amzn.to/3SHr9qU
order it in black: amzn.to/3f4CHFL
Recommended Headphones:
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Mark Levinson 5909: bit.ly/MarkLevinson5909
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Recommended Subwoofers:
SVS SB-1000 Pro: audioadvice.io/36Pea3a
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SVS SB-3000: bit.ly/SVSSB3000Sub
Paradigm Defiance X12: bit.ly/ParadigmX12
Recommended AV Receivers:
Denon AVR-X3800H 9.2CH AV Receiver: bit.ly/DenonX3800h
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Denon AVR-X6700H 11.2CH AV Receiver: audioadvice.io/3HsdEou
Anthem MRX1140: bit.ly/AnthemMRX1140
Monolith M8250x 8CH Amp: bit.ly/8CHamp
NAD M23: bit.ly/NADm23amp
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Kanto TUK: bit.ly/KantoTUK
Kanto Sub8: bit.ly/KantoSub8
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Heco Aurora 1000 Tower Speakers: bit.ly/Aurora1000
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Arendal 1723S Tower Speakers: bit.ly/Arendal1723s
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Focal Kanta No2: bit.ly/Focalkantano2
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SVS Prime Elevation Surround: audioadvice.io/35aZCdR
Audioholics Recommended Cables:
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I find it comforting that you have selected this since I have them installed all over my house to protect all of my appliances..
Gene, I admire you and audioholics. I have been consuming your content for years and you've helped me put together my own home theater that sounds absolutely fantastic for both music, games, and movies. Rooom filling bass, natural delightful sound, and a tactile feed back that makes it seem like I'm on an amusement ride for some of the more bombastic movies. I've been in search of amazing bass for so long and I was finally able to achieve that with 4 big subwoofers, minidsp, MSO, and the drive to learn from so many people which includes you (it also helps that my room gain is amazing at 20-10hz). Moving forward I hope to help others in their pursuit for pure sound and pay it forward.
Thank you
The unit looks great. During the first week of using it, we had a power outage where the power went off and on about 3 times. When it came back on for good my Yamaha RX-A1080 was down in protection mode where their support directed me to take it to the authorized service center. I had an older Monster surge protector plugged into it. Bad me for not replacing it earlier.
I can't vouch for anyone else's success with it during surges or outages but this is the first time living in my house for 26 years I had any damage due to outages.
Thx Gene
Just ordered for my REL S/510
Appreciate all the work I do for us
I use a Panamax MD2 for my subs, one each in opposing corners. I agree, while my rack is plugged into a Panamax 5300, it does state it contains “high current outlets” but my amps plugged into those.
Thanks for this. I've been looking for a good surge protector for my projector that plugs into a ceiling outlet. Going to give these a try
before I saw this video I bought three of these units For my sound system. Didn’t know they were as good as you say. Thanks!
Just ordered one wall charger and one power strip :). Thank you as it's perfect timing.
Just bought two - one for each sub. Thanks Gene! Yes, I used the link in the description.
Where I live, the electrical grid is problematic. For my pricier toys, I bought two different surge protectors with battery backup. I see them light up from time to time, but haven’t had anything fail with the possible exception of a 2011 Mac mini, which died earlier this year. I lost three motherboards on that Mac after moving here several years ago.
Thanks Gene! these are really nice and inexpensive. I also like how they fit flush to the wall and cover standard outlet covers. I am going to order several more for around the house ! LOL
Bought a box full at half price $9.98 and using throughout my home. Thanks for the recommendation!
Thanks Gene!!! Ordered 6 of them from your link.
I agree ...an amp just went in one of my mirage speakers powering the woofer , I've had them for twenty years and it goes now lol
I have one of these in my office desktop system, don't use it for sub, but it's a nice power expander. The USB connections do create noise, so you need to unplug when not charging.
Picked up 2! Thanks!
Does this device have an indicator to show when to replace the unit?
I think it would be more useful than to "change it every year"...
The Belkin surge protectors I use have a "protected" indicator. Are those really good you think?
Thanks!
Just purchased through your affiliate link on Amazon - thanks Gene for the info.
Thank you Gene great information!
Hi Gene, Thanks for this type of video. Like to see more videos that can save our thousands of dollars of home entertainment equipment from damage/wear-and-tear. For some, the budget is to tight to replace immediately. Especially with these current market conditions.
I use Zero Surge. It's Series Mode so does not use MOVs. ETL and UL certified and it has some brownout protection. EMI/RFI filtering. They have an 8 outlet model with isolated receptacles. 10 (!) year warranty.
Think it was $325. So not $20 cheap but some power conditioners cost way more than that.
Here in Florida especially in summer you really gotta be careful. I just unplug everything when before even starts
I noticed you have a LS500 ust projector in the room. Could you please give me what you think of it. The good and the bad. What are the lab specs on it. I think that if you have it in your home it is a good unit. And what size of screen are you using. Thank you.
Well it's a good thing my surge protector/line conditioner (from Panamax) has two high current plugs on it for things such as amps and powered subwoofers (specified in the instruction manual). I use these two plugs for my receiver and my powered sub, maybe that's why I've had my powered sub now for 18 years with no failure. I've seen all these plate amp failures on powered subs, and wondered how mine has lasted so long.
You should have arresters on the incoming power supply at the panel box. I use power protectors on all my electronics. Not the expensive stuff though. I bought the Monster power protection and conditioner for 65 dollars, and noticed an improvement in the tv immediately. So I'm a happy man .
Thanks dawg...Ordered a couple of these.
For those owning a home, I highly recommend whole house surge protectors. Some insurance benefits as well 😇
This device seems better than nothing at all 👍🏼 Of course I would recommend a Whole House surge protector if someone can afford it. In Arizona since we run our AC all summer then our heat pump in the colder months we get a lot of surges even from the equipment connected to the electrical box. Of course the lightning ⚡️ during monsoon season doesn’t help 😢
I had a separate surge protector installed for my Outdoor AC and it burned up 😳 but saved my AC and electrical devices connected to my breaker box 👍🏼
Hey Gene, could you provide an affiliates link to the black one? I want the one you held up but the link you have is the white one.
Hi Gene great review. I just bought 2 from your link 🍻
Thx Gene, getting 6 of them 👍🏼
Hey Gene can you guys PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do a video on using Powered Towers speakers like Goldenear Technology Tritons or Definitive Technology BPs etc!!... in a home theater setup and using a separate subwoofer as well since typically those towers roll off and don't hit the 10-16hz region that those companies claim! How to integrate them together including phase matching and all! Thanks
The USB ports are charging only ports. As expected. However do you have any concern for noise that switching USB PS will add to the AC line?
Is there a difference between the Addtam (in black) and the QINLIANF (in white) ?
Would it be a bad idea to plug a power strip into this? I only have 1 outlet (2 plug ins) behind all my components and I have a lot of things going on back there (PS5, PS4, receiver, etc etc)
Anything with the mov is good. I discovered this about two years ago. I bought a power strip and it had what I consider advanced circuitry. Line suppression and conditioning and let me tell you the cheap staples surge b600 (???) Was garbage compared to this $20 strip. I noticed an immediate improvement in sound quality which really shocked me. For $13 this thing is quite nice and offers a lot of value.
Always love the truth you bring my friend..!!
Would you put this on a dedicated 20 amp line?
I live in an older house that was built in 1960. The front half of the house is not grounded but the add-on, somewhere in the 1990s I believe, is grounded. Unfortunately the living room where all my audio related gear is is in the ungrounded part of the house. So I'm guessing this would not work for me until I was able to hopefully one day get the whole house properly grounded, right?
One other question I had was related to my communications radio room which is in the grounded part of the house. It's filled with scanners, ham radio gear, a 600 watt amp, computers, and things related to radio communications. I am legally blind and I'm still learning a lot. I usually have to get help with things when I'm installing or doing them for the first time. Would this be a helpful device for those types of radios. They pretty much all have amps in them but I just don't know enough yet to determine whether it would be beneficial on that type of gear?
Thanks for any help if you can reply back...
Brian in Fort Worth
Is there a solution like this for your power amps? Have a monoprice 7x200
Please Please please can you do a video on plate amp and there failer rate. I known you've mention before doing one ;) ive had multiple plate amps fail it annoying not used because they fail but because there all different sizes and ratings.
Hi Jean this is Gennaro from Puerto Rico I just want to say that I love your show I watch it a lot on RUclips and I had a problem which an electrical problem where it damaged my Yamaha receiver AV rx-a2080 also thinking about buying that coin lift surge protector for 20 or $15 thanks a lot I really appreciate your work on your Channel hope to see you soon on RUclips Take Care
Hey mate love the work you do. I live in Australia, would that device work here? and be worth getting? Cheers
I have a Panamax MR4300. How do I know if it's UL or CSA listed?
Jean, they're still $15.97 on Amazon right now 👍🏽 I did get a couple of them a week ago and surprise surprise it did make a difference with 2 of my 15"subs. And the USB plugs are a plus to charge mobile devices ! I'm getting the other 2 today for my other subs 👍🏽 thx again
What was the difference it made?
@Audioholics... Hey Gene... Glad there are always recommendations for stuff like this that circle the various avenues. Depending on location (like unreliable local power grids), and other equipment, could power conditioners still be an option?
Yes as long as they are rated properly for your wall outlet.
To @Audioholics: Thanks for this helpful video. Any thoughts on whole house surge protection?
Call your power company. They can install a surge protector on your main panel. Then get power conditioners that are UL or TUV certified.
Will this be suitable for use with a svs pb2000 pro? I just had a amp fail and saw this…
Very interesting... Thanks
Order in Black: order it in black: amzn.to/3f4CHFL
Order in White: amzn.to/3SHr9qU
Disclaimer: This device is rated to 15A and the manufacturer recommends NOT connecting a single device that consumes more than 1kwatt of continuously rated power. In such cases, you may need to choose a product that can handle more power.
Seems like a paid ad for a cheap surge protector. Can't even find the let-through rating on this. Which makes me think its not UL certified. Joule rating doesn't mean anything if it doesn't have a low let-through voltage. I wouldn't trust this for anything especially a subwoofer I spent thousands of dollars on.
@@nickyt4774 Oh yea I'm getting fat off the 2% commission on each sale. A whopping 38 cents. You caught on to a get rich quick scheme. Congrats.
Look a little closer at the product instead of making ASSumptions. It has ETL and UL markings.
ETL Listed and UL Listed is that ETL means a product was tested and approved by Intertek Testing Services
@@Xlongix the ELT marking is on the product. I haven't seen a single complaint about fires on Amazon. The review score is very high. If a $20 Surge outlet offends you, don't get it. Very simple solution.
Not sure if the Addtam (black) one has all the same internal components as the quinlianf. I opened the Addtam one up and did not see a gas discharge tube. Ordering the quinlianf next to see.
Excellent Gene, any UPS Batterie for home theater suggestions or video?
UPS for your projector if possible and network gear.
That’s funny beacuse I have a very similar to that one, I bought mine at Walmart but also has a reset button on top.
Thank you so much I was worried about the surge protector and not giving enough current.
Edit oh I see that you can do more than 1,000watts. I have 2 x 2,000 watts on one wall plate. One sub cable in each outlet on one plate.
ordered 2 thanks
make that 3
Thats a good amount of energy this unit can handle. Most cheap one's are only in the 600-900 Joule range.
Gene, I want you to review a Furman reference device (15i or 20i). If people are interested, would you add it to the que?
I'm kind of surprised you recommend this specific surge protector as there is no clamping voltage spec listed anywhere. Please comment. Thanks.
I see Audioholics is responding to other questions about this, but not the clamping voltage question. Starting to make me wonder why, as this seems to always be an important spec for a surge protector. If it isn't important, please explain why. Otherwise, I may start thinking it's been recommended for other reasons ($). Thanks in advance.
Would you plug an amplifier into this? Just curious why this is geared towards subs. I did read some people suggest to not surge protect amps which limit the dynamic range, it's hard to understand what's the right thing to do for protection. I thought maybe a whole house panel surge protector would be the best way to go to protect all circuits.
You definitely want to be careful with current limiting. This device is rated to 15A but the manufacturer doesn't recommend connecting a device that consumes more than 1kwatt to it, probably bc it won't effectively stop a surge. I do have 20A power conditioners in my rack connected to my amps from Furman but they are expensive.
Hi Gene! You’re looking younger. Whatever you’re doing and eating keep it up. Anyway, do you recommend to use these devices on a 240v 20amp circuit? I have my subs on 240v.
Thx and no I don't. 120v 15A is the limit. It says UP TO 220V but still 15amp limited.
just picked up two! Figure I'll use one with my projector and another with a sub. Do you see any issue with using this with a dedicated 20amp circuit?
Yes I am running dedicated 20amp circuit per subwoofer here in Florida too so will these be limiting the current in any way Gene?
thx!
What do you think about the panamax inwall?
I'm a fan of the brand and use their power conditioners in all of my systems.
Are you recommending the use of this item on both 15 and 20 amp outlets? Or is there a 20 amp similar model you can recommend?
Only use for 15A. I will research a 20A option and do a followup.
I use zerosurge for everything. Non sacrificial power strips.
I checked out two of these, then thought I should have checked reviews before hand. There are 3 or 4 reviews on this thing where they about burst into flames!!! With pictures of them melting and scorching the wall. Take care with this product, it only takes one bad one!
Please recommend something for us UK folks...that product is not on Amazon UK
What's the clamping voltage rating? Thanks again.
No UL certified so its not rated. Just a cheap Chinese "surge protector"
@@nickyt4774 yep, another ccp money grab, under a nameless, faceless company.
Gene, if have a PSA s2112 with a 1920w RMS amp and outlet is a 20A outlet, is this item a no go?
So I run a similar powered sub off one of these without problem but I will research a 20A equivalent and do a follow-up.
Heck, I'd be happy with just somehow permanently getting the DC off my mains which makes everything with a toroidal buzz in my music room. I'm currently stuck using an Emotiva CMX2 dc blocker just keep my amps and subs from buzzing.
No, I chased what I thought was a ground loop for months. Then realized it was any gear with toroids humming, not through the speakers.
All I know was after chasing what I thought was a ground loop with zero success, I found a less commonly discussed issue called DC offset when cruising the ASR forums one day. Some devices like dimmers, AC units, ceiling fans can introduce DC back into an AC circuit. It manifests as transformer hum coming from amps mostly, or any other device that has a toroidal transformers. I have had many different amps and subs with toroidal plate amps that all hum on the circuit my stereo room is on. After taking these amps and such to a completely different house and plugged them in, there was zero hum. I finally realized I was dealing with DC offset, and bought the Emotiva DC blocker they sell. Instantly worked, no more humming amps!
As the topic says it may work fine for protecting a subwoofer as mine seemed to make it through ok.
I just picked up two based on your recommendation but I am concerned now reading the literature that came with it. It states a power rating max of 1875 watts, and goes on to say anything with a power rating over 1000 watts should be plugged directly into the wall.
I am running two SVS PB2000’s (one to each surge protector. Am I exceeding its ability?
I would get one for each sub.
Curious how this measures up against my Tripp Lite 8-outlet Isobar, especially considering this product even advertises not to use it for 1000W+ applications.
Tripp Lite is likely a better product but costs more. But even that device is limited to 12A.
Would this work as a good solution for a projector too?
Sure bur I prefer to put a projector on a UPS for slow power down to protect the bulb.
Why aren't there more 20Amp surge protectors on the market?
Hi Gene. Once you hook this up, would you mind testing and sharing the results if there is any difference in power delivery to your sub? I know that other much more expensive surge protection and power conditioning products have been reviewed and/or tested only to find that some products can limit or distort the power being delivered.
I have it directly plugged into my 2kwatt sub and it seems to be working fine. I wouldn't plug anything needing more than 12A into it.
@@Audioholics Hi Gene - just received two these overnight on your recommendation, but the printed instructions specifically say not to use for any device rated over 1000W. Their words: “When the power rating of the device is over 1000W, please directly plug into the existing wall outlet, we don’t suggest using the power strip.” This is something that does not appear anywhere on the Amazon product pages.
In light of the importance of UL/ETL listing and such, can you please comment on this? Does this make you think twice about using them at all on your 2000W subs? My rear panel on my sub shows it is rated to 1000W, and it certainly makes me rethink using this surge protector with it. Thanks for all you do!
@@tonyabate yea ilits weird bc it also says rated to 15A. I've been using it without incident for 2 months now and my sub has a 2kwatt amp. I suspect the 1kwatt rating has more to do with inrush current tripping the device like kitchen appliance may do when activating a motor. Definitely don't use this for an appliance.
@@Xlongix your simple math makes a lot of false assumptions. My 2kwatt sub amp is Class D 95% efficient. So at full load it will consume up to 2100 watts. But in reality it never uses that power for more than bursts. Steady state at best is a few hundred watts which is less than a lamp projector. I've been using this device for 2 months and never had a fault issue or current limiting issue.
That said if you're concerned about it, don't use this product. You can buy 20A surge outlets if you have an electrician that can install them for you.
@@Xlongix that not true about Class D amo efficiency, especially ones that employ SMPS. I measure > 90% at full power.
www.audioholics.com/audio-amplifier/amplifier-classes
I was wondering what you think about surge. Protectors in the breaker box. I had three dedicated 20 amp circuits run into my theater room. I know it was overkill but he had the extra wire lol. I have my subwoofer plugged in which is the JTR S2. I have my cherry amp plugged into one and a 20 amp juice goose. It all. Everything is plugged into under in my cabinet. Anyway. I also spend a hundred bucks I think he charged and he installed me a surge protector for the breaker box outside. I live in Arizona so lightning maybe a few times a year. Not much. But should I still buy this strip for specifically my subwoofer? Or is the one I have outside okay? Sorry about the long message, I was just wanting to get your professional opinion
I'd use it for any electronics device that isn't a motor, like appliances. Definitely don't use it outdoors.
@@Audioholics no I'm saying I have a surge protector on my box outside. If anything hits my house it protects my whole box out there. I'm wondering if that's all I need or should I buy this also for my subwoofer or will the one outside protect everything
@@jasonbovey9480 nope always go for redundancy.
@@Audioholics Great, will do. Would you please recommend me one that's like this that won't take up so much space. I have 320 amp plugs next to each other. I don't need all the extra stuff. Maybe one that would only just cover one plate. The issue is it's a three receptacle plate. They're not separate
The black unit brand is called "Addtam"
its pronounced "Chin-fen-lien-shi" ... roughly translated "Diligent practice" - Thanks Gene ill give two a try for my dual Arendals
Any products recommended for 220v for us non American? :)
APC is a brand sold in Europe,good surge protectors that doesnt cost that much.
They have all kinds of products,single outlets,8 outlets with usb and ethernet connections,and everything in between
How about Furman?
So one of these wouldn't limit the current draw of my subs at all? I have 2 Monolith 16s I am trying to find some way to surge protect. Currently using a Monoprice 12 Outlet Rotating Power Strip Surge Protector Block 10ft Cord, 4320 Joules, Clamping Voltage 330V
I would connect 1 per sub. If you have 20A outlets, I would look into something similar rated to 20A. I will be doing a followup video to address this.
@@Audioholics looking forward to it!
You must also always unplug the power cord if there are storms or thunderstorms!!!
I have whole house surge protection plus surge protectors on my equipment outlets and I still unplug my equipment during thunderstorms! I figure an ounce of prevention is equal to a pound of cure. Lol 😆
@@number1pappy You must never trust the protection circuit 100%.
It never protected 100%
What is the point of unplugging power conditioner when a thunderstorm comes won't a power conditioner protect your equipment from a thunderstorm or not. cause if not I don't see any reason to buy a expensive power conditioner.
@@denverwilliams3005 well, I suppose in theory and it does provide a high degree of protection. That being said when and if I'm home and there is a thunderstorm or any other situation that might cause a surge ,I will unplug my equipment. When away from home I have to rely on the surge protection I have. In other words there isn't a surge protector out there that is 100 % effective 100% of the time. I have a "wall" of surge protection for when I'm not home and when there is little to no warning and it just happens out of the blue. I have considerable amount of money in my gear and the price of surge protection pales against having to spend the amount of money it would take to replace. I've actually had damage to two of my tvs, cable modem and a WiFi router because a power surge came thru the internet cable and passed to my router and and to two of my tvs via the ethernet wire. I didn't have surge protection for the cable as when I installed a surge protector it caused too much interference. I no longer have my tvs connected to an ethernet wire. I have them WiFi connected now. My cable internet modem is just at the mercy of the electrical surge gods now! Lol! But modems are relatively cheap so....
@@number1pappy so would the panamax power/surge protector won't protect against a lightning strike or should I just unplug whenever there is a thunderstorm.
Hi Gene, I was trying to get two of these using your link, but they are only available in white, can you check if you can add a link with the black ones?
Thanks!
Sure will do in a bit.
Just click his link and then find the black one. He will still get credit. If you want to support the channel more, bookmark the link and use it anytime you buy anything on Amazon.
Forgot about protecting my sub altogether.. Thanks for bringing this point.. Will plan a stabilizer to protect my sub 👍
active subs where you have the amplifier integrated into the box have always been bad amplifiers!!
I have seen many of them destroyed. also in 2-way active speakers!
A good separate amplifier is not often destroyed
💯
Great suggestion. Thanks Gene. I’m just about to relocate two subs so I’ll be sure to add these.
One question: Do you have a preferred wireless connection product suitable for subs? I know SVS sells one, as does Emotiva. What do you like?
Wired when you can, wireless as last resort.
@@Audioholics Gene, can you elaborate a bit? I was about to go wireless with my two subs in order to avoid people walking over cords. Is there a latency issue or something else? Thanks!
The highest wall outlet fuse in the UK is 13amps, but at around 230v.
But although we have thunderstorms (one today) there is almost zero chance of a lightning strike blowing our gear.
Recently when a PSU went faulty it tripped the safety switch in my wall immediately when turned on. I don't think any surge higher than the outlet max would get through.
I bought a lightning damaged Denon AVR, so there is a chance. Unfortunately i couldn't get the Denon to work yet.
I have a few concerns regarding this product. But thank you for the clarification.
[Original comment:
After researching this product I discovered mutiple deficiencies in the design as a "SUPRESSOR."
- there is no mention anywhere in the specs of clamping voltage, or UL 1449 'let-through' voltage protection rating. The manufacturer claimed that it has a clamping rating of 600V. The minimum adequate clamping rate is 400V, with 330V considered to be the standard on better suppressors. 500V is considered borderline inadequate. It seems that plugging an expensive home theater system and sub woofer into this seems no better than plugging them directly into a wall outlet.
This does seem to be a nifty product as an aesthic multi-pronged space saver outlet in tight spaces. But, i wouldn't even buy it for that bc for me, the prime feature of this are the multiple USB ports (which are not fast charging.) And many reviews complained about how poor the USB charging ports were and some even had pics of the whole thing melting.
I like the concept and definitely will purchase a surge protector for my subwoofer bc I've been had prblms with it dropping out.
But, this doesn't seem like the best product solution for that. Too bad bcuz I really liked the concept.]
There are definitely better products on the market but for cheap it serves its purpose and so far has been working out for the application at hand. I also spoke to a subwoofer manufacturer that uses it successfully as well.
@@Audioholics oh good to know. Thank you. I figured that you're not a novice at this and wouldn't have recommended the unit otherwise. Thank for the reply. And, hopefully the comment didn't come off too harsh.
Hi Gene, how does this product compare to the Panamax MD2 2-Outlet Surge Suppressor which is about twice the cost of the Quinlianf?
That’s what I use. I don’t plan on swapping g them out, but that’s just me.
@@nathanjones4039 I do as well and I don't plan on swapping it out either but if I ever purchase a second subwoofer I would need to buy another surge protector.
Panamax has some products / ports that are rated for high current so just make sure which/ if any have it.
I have the M8 AV-pro & MR5100 which was the best one they had that had more then 2 high current. It’s amazing how they don’t offer more options in the line up with higher rated current outlets
I have an MD2 as well, and SVS told me not to use it with my subs because it throttles the power to the sub.
@@mikeschramm I’ve got SVS subs as well. I’m not sure they’re exactly correct on this. They do advise going straight into the wall, ie: pretty much what Gene said about line conditioners is their realm of thinking on this, but an MD2 is not a line conditioner. I don’t think it’s limiting current in any way, but someone that is more expertise may have more info on it than I do?? I’m using MD2’s on my subs and will continue to do so, I’d rather be safe than sorry.
I bought this for my crown xli250 amplifier, but noticed that it limited the dynamics of the sound compared to directly plugging the amp to the wall outlet. Therefore, I wouldn't recommend it for amps.
If your amp exceeds 1kwatt continuously rated, it's possible but if not, it's unlikely.
My setup is as follows:
* Connected to qinlianf device:
. Crown XLI-2500 amplifier
* Connected to crown xli amplifier:
a. Outlaw 975 preamp connected to a Tripplite power bar:
b. Two Monolith 365t speakers for stereo sound
* Audio source: primarily spotify and netflix
I dont know exactly how much power is drawn by this setup, but there is a definite a limitation of the sound compared to plugging the amp directly to the wall outlet.
This is too bad, because I was hoping this device would work for me as it's much cheaper compared to the alternatives of panamax or powerquest conditioners.
Maybe a different amp or receiver will benefit more with this device.
@Seph Sunico plug all your gear into it but the amp to see if that's still an issue.
Hello I was wondering your thoughts on shunyata l use hydra 10 years now and I just ordered a new believe it’s called viper has 10 outlets I’ve never heard you speak on this just wondering your opinion and who you seen the research videos thanks Steve
Remember that electricity from a lightning strike is very powerful and can do a lot of damage. A protection circuit NEVER protects 100%.
It depends a little on how powerful the current spike is.
Just ask an electrician.
That is why it is always a good idea to unplug the socket when the storm arrives
Any bad influence on sound?
NO
@@Audioholics Thanks. I need 220V version, this one isn’t compatible.
I always unplug mine when not in use.
I built a sub 25 years ago. I always use an external amp. As I sit here, my stepdaughter and stepson are watching a movie and it is shaking the whole house. Powered by, at this point, a Proton D540. The driver is a Adire Shiva. Tuned to 20 hz in a 4 cubic foot box. Flat to 14 hz in room response.
Even better is to install a whole home surge protector. It's not that expensive and relatively easy to DIY the install in your main panel.
From what I've noticed, most sub amps (atleast the ones I have which were made in the 2000's) die from bad capacitors and/or the yellow glue they use that turns black and corrosive over time.
no surge protectors going to help against a lightning strike.
So you did not tested it yet?
I've been using is successfully for almost 2 months now.
Seems like a paid ad for a cheap surge protector. Can't even find the let-through rating on this. Which makes me think its not UL certified. Joule rating doesn't mean anything if it doesn't have a low let-through voltage. I wouldn't trust this for anything especially a subwoofer I spent thousands of dollars on.
Oh yea I'm getting fat off the 2% commission on each sale. A whopping 38 cents. You caught on to a get rich quick scheme. Congrats.
Look a little closer at the product instead of making ASSumptions. It has ETL and UL markings.
ETL Listed and UL Listed is that ETL means a product was tested and approved by Intertek Testing Services.
I got a clone of this very device a few weeks ago funny enough, not for my sub though
If you own anything above a $99.99 "HTIB", don't buy this 1680 joule p.o.s. Even a $500 system deserves a $50+ surge protector with a minimum spec of 3000J and preferably a clamping voltage of 330 or 400 V.