I'm not a road cyclist, I'm just a commuter with an hybrid bike so this knowledge i guess I'll never use it, but man i love how you explain everything, and take the time to actually show with the camera what you are doing
Been building bikes for some time now but have just bought my first fully integrated frame. This series has been a massive help. Thanks so much! Hope your doing OK.
Thank you for this tutorial, Oz. I love the way you explain things, matter of fact and to the point. I love how you call out the little gotchas that obviously come from a wealth of experience. I've never put a bike together, but your tutorials make me want to try it.
Thanks oz for the upload. I just finished building my own Yoeleo bike using a lot of the tips you suggested. I even posted a video of the build on my channel.
I've been watching your videos for a year now and I love them. I never told you so here you go. BTW, I made the teflon wax lube and went through the three stage cleaning process on mine and my two children's bikes before heading out on our summer bike camping trip. It was so nice to no longer have black chainring marks on our calves and clean hands when putting chains back on after loosing them occasionally ( the various bike camping bags pressed on a number of cables thus making some of our controls less than perfect ). So anyways thank you for your work! And we'll see maybe our chains will last 15K kms!
I'm happy to see that you have the guts to own Chinese branded equipment. Some people like GC Performance on RUclips trash everything from China. I've purchased 3 bikes and wheels from China and have never been disappointed. A lot of cyclists will say they want to see more people cycling but they are drinking the cool-aide and spewing trash talk about buying from China. Most people here in the US think paying more than $2000 for a bike even today is just way to much. I tend to agree. I would like to see more of the better known bike manufacturers offer bikes with say a SENSAH groupset and some Chinese wheelsets that are better priced than those that companies like Hunt are offing. People are only going to create more competition in the market if they start buying lower priced gear. It's good to see you are onboard with that.
Hi, Oz! Thank you for another thorough "real life" tutorial, always a pleasure to hear your advice and see you doing a job right as an example! There's a point here which you might cover in one of your next videos. Tightening hose nuts at the calipers might feel quite confusing without lots of experience. Shimano suggests 5-7Nm torque on these nuts, but you cannot use a usual torque wrench here - just a spanner! When you reach the resistance of the olive forming a seal, it feels tricky where to stop tightening. Too loose may cause leakage, and too tight - damage caliper thread. Your experienced advice on catching the moment to stop tightening would be nice!
You made that look so easy. i can tell you no bike shop will ever build a bike like this they will cut corners and rush the process because it is not there bike, i want to build my own bike because i know it will be done properly i will use your video as a guide thank you very much.
Video end is perfect, like best cooking ever, thanks again Steve 👍👏🏻 now let’s finish my PERFECT WHITE R12 with Shimano GRX components 👍 Thanks again from Brasil 🇧🇷 and please stay safe
Hooo awesome! Just in time! I'm gonna swing by the local post office to FINALLY pick up my handlebars, so I can finally start my build. But first I'm gonna watch the video now :)
The issue now though is that Yoeleo, while making a very nice bike, has raised their prices so much that they're no longer a "budget" option. Once they got the word out and got the UCI approval, their prices went way up, which is to be expected. But now you can choose much more budget friendly options on bikes that are built to the same quality for 1/4th the price. Velobuild, Hongfu, Dengfu, all basically the same bikes as Yoeleo for much, much less. And my Superteam carbon wheels that I paid $225 for are still rolling perfectly true more than 10,000 miles later and look fantastic. I know you were one of the first people to introduce us to Yoeleo years ago and what a great budget option they were, but that's just not the case anymore.
Brilliant video. If I might add one thing, I like to add some foam tubing to the top tube to protect it against bar strike when the bars can spin so easily before everything is built up. A bare alloy bar will chip paint or worse delaminate a carbon tube if the impact is hard enough.
how much does this frame set cost? is it 2020? how is that possible to buy a product like this and the manufacturer shit on the proper facing of the flat mount.
1st set of bleed blocks were hose clamps used during driving the barb into the hose, not bleed blocks. 3rd (orange plastic peice) is a pad spacer. The only bleed block was the one that came installed in the caliper.
It is also good practice to grease the lever clamps. Those integrated carbon bar are softer than the steel lever clamps and trying to push the lever around a tight bend in the bar can cause the steel clamp to shave material off of the bar. Because these bars are not perfectly round the grease doesn't allow the bar to slip.
One of the best videos on bike assembly I have seen. I can't recall ever seeing guidelines on how short to to clip the housing, even Park glosses over that part from my memory. Do you think you could eventually do a video explaining your preferred methods for the different external cable routings, if you have access to example frames or can do some diagrams? I know of over BB, under BB, and along the top tube for shifters. And how to tell which the frame is built for, and which you prefer if the stops and so on are minimal or reliant on clips.
Your hand placement on that torque wrench should be on the handle. The lower your hand is towards the ratchet end, the more torque is being applied. The setting on a torque wrench is spec'd to use the handle. Moving it forward like that over torques. Quite considerable on some wrenches.
WHAT AN IMPRESSIVE VIDEO SUCH ROAD BIKES ARE SO EXPENSIVE HERE IN AFRICA. IT IS SO HAD TO GET ONE WISH I CAN GET ONE OF THIS I JUST LOVE RACING BICYCLE ..OZ GIVE ME ONE OF THOSE😍 I WILL MUCH APRECIATE
Nice video! Very satisfying and calming to watch, I watched it while falling asleep :) And now after waking up I was looking for "Pt2" but then I saw the upload date was very recent
I think it would be safer to put on the end cap and the olive onto the hose before your hammer in the insert as sometimes the insert will expand the hose and you won’t be able to slide the olive over it.
Would like a good recommendation on Road Frame from an old ride, not a racer, a recreational rider. something that would not beat me up on long rides. Please list Brand, and source for a reputable dealer. Love your videos, have got so many great tips, and ideas.
I still think Ultegra is the best value even. though i have 9000 series on one bike as i got some very good deals on new old stock. I really can't tell any differences to feel or function between the 3 top tier shimano groups.
@@glennoc8585 Shimano should release Di2 options available to mid-tier group sets. Not everyone can afford or justify spending top dollar on top-tier group sets.
I have used on my trekking bike Deore (105 equiv.) and XT (Ultegra equiv.), and on my CX bike Ultegra, Dura-Ace and now GRX with XTR brakes. For road riding I can see no real gains in using anything higher than 105, except maybe for the pedals, which have superior bearings on Dura-Ace, and maybe the levers, where better groupsets may give better modulation. The pistons on my XTR callipers are starting to stick regularly, despite my best efforts. There is very little to callipers (see SickBiker video); and so I will replace them with Deore (£16.99 each at Wiggle) instead of XTR (£104.99 each). It is very easy to spend money where you don't need to on cycling and not spend where you do need to, e.g. good bib shorts.
Hey Oz Cycle - The unboxing vid said the the R12 has a BB386 BB - this video you're using BB86 BB - is that the same? Can you link your BB as I need to get on for a BB386 frame with Ultegra crank. Cheers.
Is that a new refurbished bike garage? Very organized. Just building a new frame, but with sram axs. Having built both Shimano and sram, I like the preload crank method of the shimano. Great tips on grease choices..
Thank you for this video! I wonder, how you deal with rear derailleur cable shorting when turn the handle bar? Isn't it affects the derailleur position (and hence chain) when riding ?
@@stevenleffanue thank you, got it This pariticular Yoeleo frameset has cable-size holes on the bottom bracket area, so that the cable housing goes from the levers to the derailleurs as one piece, right? My Wilier Cento10 PRO unfortunately do not (there are 2 little wholes just for cables itself in the bottom bracket area), so in my case I have to make the cables+cover slack inside downtube, am I right?
Question for you Why did you put the older type Shimano Teflon coated cables on your bike, Being a master bike mechanic myself I would never put or recommend these cables. After a couple of months of use the teflon separates from the cable and bungel up inside the housing thuss makes for very poor shifting . That is why Shimano quit making and selling them.
How often do you change gear cables? This seems like it'll be a PITA everytime you have to do it. And when you do it, do you also change the housing? Also not talking about this bike only, the same would happen with an emonda 2021, or any bike with fully integrated/hidden cables...
Thanks, in case I move onto hydraulic brakes. The aqua grease and brake anti squeal were useful. Is the latter much better then copper grease? The CPC one is expensive compared with others, would Mintex work as well ?
Great video Oz. Lots of info and inspiration as usual. I'm building my own bike for the first time and hit a snag. My shift cable keeps popping out of the shifter when I down shift. What am I doing wrong? I'm making sure it is tucked tightly into the recessed mechanism of the shifter.
@@stevenleffanue the inner. The actual wire. The ball end is popping right out of the actual shifter mechanism halfway through the down shifts while testing it. Up shifts work fine. Just coming back down is the issue. Thanks for the reply!!!
@@stevenleffanue thanks again. Brand new outers and inners installed today. Same issue. Not sure if it is an issue with the wires moving in the frame, the shifter itself, or my skills lol.
Hi, i enjoyed your bike building vids, espically tipps like what kind of grease or paste you use. I see you featured some Yoeleo bikes, dont know if you have noticed, they now have a new G1 Gravel frame set, which some interesting specs: Grand Fondo geometry, with gravel capability, and yeah BSA instead of Pressfit. Care to review, if you someday get one?
Seriusly? Just flop the backside to the front and you can get out the parts of the Wrapped Plastic. Talking about the 3:00 Part. Intro looks nice like a total different Person =)
Like your videos. Very easy to follow. I have one question. Did you use the right gear cable end caps on the lever end. The ones on mine have a short barb and a locating lug on them.
@@stevenleffanue Mine came with 2 end caps with short barb for levers and one longer barb end cap for derailuer. I’ve just checked Shimano manual and it does show end caps with barbs for shifters. Probably has little effect on function though
Hello Oz, I really enjoy your videos, and am interested in doing my first bike build. I like the Yoeleo R12 frame in this video, and was hoping to get some information on how to purchase this frame, and your thoughts on the quality of the frame when you received it as well as the cost. I live on Guam and hope that the company would be able to ship this to me via USPS. Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated. P.S. Keep making all these great videos👍
Looking at your video right now because I got the most recent R12 from Yoeleo but it seems to be different because it doesn't have a guide for the front derailleur cable and doesn't have a way to put a cable stop. What should I do?
The cable is internally routed, so the front derailleur should have the outer cable stopper. If it doesn't, you will have to buy a front derailleur with an outer cable stopper.
Hi Steven! thank you for your very useful videos..I need a little help. I want to buy a similar threads press fitt BB but in BB 86 and compatible with news Sram DUB standard.with 28.99 mm crank. I browsed the net but nowhere found. Do you have information is this type of BB is already available at any producer? thank You in advance!
Hmm just received a 2021 R12 and there is *no* guide for the FD cable. Any advice on that? All I think is to wrap the cable around the BB sleeve but that seems like a terrible idea...
@@stevenleffanue I believe the trick is that the cable housing needs to mount to the FD. So there shouldn't be any tension against the BB. It's a tight turn for the cable so we'll see how that goes. Thx.
Very interested in purchasing the R12 myself and I was wondering, with the full length cable housing to the FD/RD, how long do you think those cables should last before needing a refresh? It would appear to me that you could recable the inners while leaving the outers at least a time or two, which would save a ton of time. Or do you suggest replacing inner & outer at the same time like with the traditional exterior / internally routed cables? Debating whether to go mechanical or just get Di2 to avoid all this (also debating whether all this hassle is worth it & just go with R11)....
A cycling legend with a heart to help every one. Thank you.
One of the best instructional video I have seen on setting up a new bike. Very clear instructions and video images. Thank you. A joy to watch.
I'm not a road cyclist, I'm just a commuter with an hybrid bike so this knowledge i guess I'll never use it, but man i love how you explain everything, and take the time to actually show with the camera what you are doing
Been building bikes for some time now but have just bought my first fully integrated frame. This series has been a massive help. Thanks so much! Hope your doing OK.
Thank you for this tutorial, Oz. I love the way you explain things, matter of fact and to the point. I love how you call out the little gotchas that obviously come from a wealth of experience. I've never put a bike together, but your tutorials make me want to try it.
Always love your work and the technical precision in describing the parts. Hope you're enjoying the fruits of your labour by now.
Thanks oz for the upload. I just finished building my own Yoeleo bike using a lot of the tips you suggested. I even posted a video of the build on my channel.
Very detailed and informative. Probably the best bike build video on youtube. Thank you sir :)
Ive only seen a hand full of your videos yet have become one of your biggest fans. Please post more.
I love how you teach procedure by procedure it's clearly to learn❤❤❤
I've been watching your videos for a year now and I love them. I never told you so here you go. BTW, I made the teflon wax lube and went through the three stage cleaning process on mine and my two children's bikes before heading out on our summer bike camping trip. It was so nice to no longer have black chainring marks on our calves and clean hands when putting chains back on after loosing them occasionally ( the various bike camping bags pressed on a number of cables thus making some of our controls less than perfect ). So anyways thank you for your work! And we'll see maybe our chains will last 15K kms!
I'm happy to see that you have the guts to own Chinese branded equipment. Some people like GC Performance on RUclips trash everything from China. I've purchased 3 bikes and wheels from China and have never been disappointed. A lot of cyclists will say they want to see more people cycling but they are drinking the cool-aide and spewing trash talk about buying from China. Most people here in the US think paying more than $2000 for a bike even today is just way to much. I tend to agree. I would like to see more of the better known bike manufacturers offer bikes with say a SENSAH groupset and some Chinese wheelsets that are better priced than those that companies like Hunt are offing. People are only going to create more competition in the market if they start buying lower priced gear. It's good to see you are onboard with that.
unusual yet refreshing intro, once in a while.
Love all the details you went into. I always do my own repairs and tuning and will need all that info in the future.
man this is an incredible tutorial, if I ever buy a Yeoleo frame I am going to use this to follow for the build! Many thanks!
OK so the last bit was delightfully bonkers, but this was an excellent vlog. I learned SO MUCH! Thank you 🙏 I’ll watch part 2 with interest,
Hi, Oz! Thank you for another thorough "real life" tutorial, always a pleasure to hear your advice and see you doing a job right as an example! There's a point here which you might cover in one of your next videos. Tightening hose nuts at the calipers might feel quite confusing without lots of experience. Shimano suggests 5-7Nm torque on these nuts, but you cannot use a usual torque wrench here - just a spanner! When you reach the resistance of the olive forming a seal, it feels tricky where to stop tightening. Too loose may cause leakage, and too tight - damage caliper thread. Your experienced advice on catching the moment to stop tightening would be nice!
When tightening the nut feels quite firm another complete turn will be fine.
You made that look so easy. i can tell you no bike shop will ever build a bike like this they will cut corners and rush the process because it is not there bike, i want to build my own bike because i know it will be done properly i will use your video as a guide thank you very much.
Video end is perfect, like best cooking ever, thanks again Steve 👍👏🏻 now let’s finish my PERFECT WHITE R12 with Shimano GRX components 👍 Thanks again from Brasil 🇧🇷 and please stay safe
another great video, my favorite channel. Started doing the wax method and everyone in the bunch is envious of my clean drivetrain.
I’ve learnt so much from your videos...cheers
Hooo awesome! Just in time! I'm gonna swing by the local post office to FINALLY pick up my handlebars, so I can finally start my build. But first I'm gonna watch the video now :)
The bike is actually completed , riden and its awsome (dont tell the viewers 😂) You will like yours when done.
Milan: Hope you can finish soon your PERFECT WHITE R12 frame 👍
Great video, I will try all the procedures to rebuild a bike that I have, I just want to be able to build a bike from scratch. Thanks a lot !!
It is explained so well, I've never seen it in a video. Chapeau!
The issue now though is that Yoeleo, while making a very nice bike, has raised their prices so much that they're no longer a "budget" option. Once they got the word out and got the UCI approval, their prices went way up, which is to be expected. But now you can choose much more budget friendly options on bikes that are built to the same quality for 1/4th the price. Velobuild, Hongfu, Dengfu, all basically the same bikes as Yoeleo for much, much less. And my Superteam carbon wheels that I paid $225 for are still rolling perfectly true more than 10,000 miles later and look fantastic. I know you were one of the first people to introduce us to Yoeleo years ago and what a great budget option they were, but that's just not the case anymore.
I love watching your videos, very informative. I've been waiting for the next part of this series. Can't wait to see the final build.
brilliant series. Hope it gets allot of young riders on the roads
Thanks to keep sharin those great videos, say hello joe.
Thanks for making me smile and giving me an inspiration for the coming winter's project!
Awesome review, love it! Thanks for the knowledge
Brilliant video. If I might add one thing, I like to add some foam tubing to the top tube to protect it against bar strike when the bars can spin so easily before everything is built up. A bare alloy bar will chip paint or worse delaminate a carbon tube if the impact is hard enough.
how much does this frame set cost? is it 2020? how is that possible to buy a product like this and the manufacturer shit on the proper facing of the flat mount.
1st set of bleed blocks were hose clamps used during driving the barb into the hose, not bleed blocks. 3rd (orange plastic peice) is a pad spacer. The only bleed block was the one that came installed in the caliper.
It is also good practice to grease the lever clamps. Those integrated carbon bar are softer than the steel lever clamps and trying to push the lever around a tight bend in the bar can cause the steel clamp to shave material off of the bar. Because these bars are not perfectly round the grease doesn't allow the bar to slip.
Preferably a temporary lube like soap and water. I often use isopropyl alcohol
I love this channel! Its what got me into cycling even though what i got that time was a very cheap bicycle
Legend! In The Netherlands we call you a "vakman"
One of the best videos on bike assembly I have seen. I can't recall ever seeing guidelines on how short to to clip the housing, even Park glosses over that part from my memory.
Do you think you could eventually do a video explaining your preferred methods for the different external cable routings, if you have access to example frames or can do some diagrams? I know of over BB, under BB, and along the top tube for shifters. And how to tell which the frame is built for, and which you prefer if the stops and so on are minimal or reliant on clips.
So many different routings. Methods are basically the same
@@stevenleffanue True, but as I found out - getting things wrong can cause pretty bad shifting and braking issues!
Mille mercis pour ces explications détaillées!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Your hand placement on that torque wrench should be on the handle. The lower your hand is towards the ratchet end, the more torque is being applied. The setting on a torque wrench is spec'd to use the handle. Moving it forward like that over torques. Quite considerable on some wrenches.
amazing, thank you so much for sharing! great content, greetings from germany
Love the intro and the outro.
Amazing detailed video ! Great tips. Cannot wait to see the next episode 👌
I have both the new Ultegra and 105... Shimano really brought their A game with this latest update.
WHAT AN IMPRESSIVE VIDEO SUCH ROAD BIKES ARE SO EXPENSIVE HERE IN AFRICA. IT IS SO HAD TO GET ONE WISH I CAN GET ONE OF THIS I JUST LOVE RACING BICYCLE ..OZ GIVE ME ONE OF THOSE😍 I WILL MUCH APRECIATE
Nice video! Very satisfying and calming to watch, I watched it while falling asleep :)
And now after waking up I was looking for "Pt2" but then I saw the upload date was very recent
Pt2 nearly ready
@@stevenleffanue Nice! Glad to know :) New suscriber
Great video Oz. Thanks. Going to look into one of those frames.
This is a Park Tool quality video...well done sir.
Perfectly executed. Well done 👍
I think it would be safer to put on the end cap and the olive onto the hose before your hammer in the insert as sometimes the insert will expand the hose and you won’t be able to slide the olive over it.
Would like a good recommendation on Road Frame from an old ride, not a racer, a recreational rider. something that would not beat me up on long rides. Please list Brand, and source for a reputable dealer. Love your videos, have got so many great tips, and ideas.
Just look for an endurance frame, these are designed for just that. Almost every brand will offer that, also run wider tires, they will add comfort.
Awesome video mate !!
Good explanation on build of bike. I seen that brand before too Yoeleo in Chinese bike videos.
Would be great to see you build a Campagnolo 10 or 11speed equipped bike.
How about 13 speed Campy?
@@stevenleffanue Haha true, I'm not sold on the 1x13. I'm sure a 13 Super Record will be showing up soon.
best bike build ever. Thanks
2:57 & 3:14 - I suspect two backside tabs could have been unfolded to release the parts without cutting the plastic off.
Hardcore Mamil. My role model to aspire to at my age 35. 😂
This will be my go to when I go hydraulic. Thanks!
I've learned so many fun bike hacks from this dude
Mate, you should ONLY grab torque wrench by the HANDLE. Not at the middle of the lever. Cheers!
I still think Ultegra is the best value even. though i have 9000 series on one bike as i got some very good deals on new old stock. I really can't tell any differences to feel or function between the 3 top tier shimano groups.
Any reason why you think they are a better value than 105?
@@trepidati0n533 105 is fine especially the latest 7000 series. You can race on it for sure. I like di2 and if 105 goes did I'd consider.it.
@@glennoc8585 Shimano should release Di2 options available to mid-tier group sets. Not everyone can afford or justify spending top dollar on top-tier group sets.
I have used on my trekking bike Deore (105 equiv.) and XT (Ultegra equiv.), and on my CX bike Ultegra, Dura-Ace and now GRX with XTR brakes. For road riding I can see no real gains in using anything higher than 105, except maybe for the pedals, which have superior bearings on Dura-Ace, and maybe the levers, where better groupsets may give better modulation.
The pistons on my XTR callipers are starting to stick regularly, despite my best efforts. There is very little to callipers (see SickBiker video); and so I will replace them with Deore (£16.99 each at Wiggle) instead of XTR (£104.99 each).
It is very easy to spend money where you don't need to on cycling and not spend where you do need to, e.g. good bib shorts.
@@iMadrid11 Id be surprised if di2 doesn't cover the next 105 groupset it could be very basic even.
Hey Oz Cycle - The unboxing vid said the the R12 has a BB386 BB - this video you're using BB86 BB - is that the same? Can you link your BB as I need to get on for a BB386 frame with Ultegra crank. Cheers.
Is that a new refurbished bike garage? Very organized. Just building a new frame, but with sram axs. Having built both Shimano and sram, I like the preload crank method of the shimano. Great tips on grease choices..
Yes,no longer on the farm. Nice,hope the build goes well.
Very nice video sir. Are you happy with that bb? Thanks in advance.
Very nice intro...like magical bro..
From Philippines
very helpful to start your own build cyling roadbike
wow.. seems like alot of work. I wonder how the di2 or cheap sram rival axs etap would be like?
Love their wheels so much
Hi Oz, great instruction. So whats your take on using retaining compound and primer to press in the BB? Is it better to go with grease? CheerS
If the bottom bracket shell is well made just a smidge of grease to ease it into place. Retaining compound for ill-fitting bottom brackets.
Please, could you teach how to make a tool to extract bearings from the bottom bracket press fit? Thanks
👍
Righto , its on my list Douglas
Great video oz. How are the tolerances on this frame? Do you measure the bb shell?
Maaan how I love your videos!
Thank you for this video! I wonder, how you deal with rear derailleur cable shorting when turn the handle bar? Isn't it affects the derailleur position (and hence chain) when riding ?
You mentioned about this effect at 14:48
The cable should have some slack in the frame which accommodates for this effect
@@stevenleffanue thank you, got it
This pariticular Yoeleo frameset has cable-size holes on the bottom bracket area, so that the cable housing goes from the levers to the derailleurs as one piece, right?
My Wilier Cento10 PRO unfortunately do not (there are 2 little wholes just for cables itself in the bottom bracket area), so in my case I have to make the cables+cover slack inside downtube, am I right?
Yes , the complete cables go all the way through bb area.
When are you opening the yoleo store
Can you post a link to where you bought your bottom bracket from? I'm about to start my own build, but using an ICan frame.
Oh those hoze tools are loveable. I gotta get some.
so the megpie not on the attack mode today
Question for you Why did you put the older type Shimano Teflon coated cables on your bike, Being a master bike mechanic myself I would never put or recommend these cables. After a couple of months of use the teflon separates from the cable and bungel up inside the housing thuss makes for very poor shifting . That is why Shimano quit making and selling them.
Not had a problem in the past myself with them Thomas
All you need to do, to build your own bike, is - have enough money for it! ;)
How often do you change gear cables? This seems like it'll be a PITA everytime you have to do it. And when you do it, do you also change the housing? Also not talking about this bike only, the same would happen with an emonda 2021, or any bike with fully integrated/hidden cables...
Only inner wire change , outers should last a very long time
Haha good intro😂
good outro
Thanks, in case I move onto hydraulic brakes. The aqua grease and brake anti squeal were useful. Is the latter much better then copper grease? The CPC one is expensive compared with others, would Mintex work as well ?
Copper is more for anti cease. Rubber is not a lubricant,its not for parts that need to be adjusted
Great video Oz. Lots of info and inspiration as usual. I'm building my own bike for the first time and hit a snag. My shift cable keeps popping out of the shifter when I down shift. What am I doing wrong? I'm making sure it is tucked tightly into the recessed mechanism of the shifter.
Inner or outer?
@@stevenleffanue the inner. The actual wire. The ball end is popping right out of the actual shifter mechanism halfway through the down shifts while testing it. Up shifts work fine. Just coming back down is the issue. Thanks for the reply!!!
Pull out inner , wire could be fraying near the head
@@stevenleffanue thanks again. Brand new outers and inners installed today. Same issue. Not sure if it is an issue with the wires moving in the frame, the shifter itself, or my skills lol.
Great vid Master chef👍
Hi, i enjoyed your bike building vids, espically tipps like what kind of grease or paste you use. I see you featured some Yoeleo bikes, dont know if you have noticed, they now have a new G1 Gravel frame set, which some interesting specs: Grand Fondo geometry, with gravel capability, and yeah BSA instead of Pressfit. Care to review, if you someday get one?
Thanx for letting me know about the Yoeleo gravel bike Ran , maybe they might send me a frame to review 🙂
@@stevenleffanue am looking forward to it as much as you do
Seriusly? Just flop the backside to the front and you can get out the parts of the Wrapped Plastic. Talking about the 3:00 Part.
Intro looks nice like a total different Person =)
Like your videos. Very easy to follow. I have one question. Did you use the right gear cable end caps on the lever end. The ones on mine have a short barb and a locating lug on them.
The barb is a short piece of ptfe plastic pipe?....thats for rear derailleur
@@stevenleffanue Mine came with 2 end caps with short barb for levers and one longer barb end cap for derailuer. I’ve just checked Shimano manual and it does show end caps with barbs for shifters. Probably has little effect on function though
Very good to check. I only got a barbed end with groupset ☹
Hello Oz, I really enjoy your videos, and am interested in doing my first bike build. I like the Yoeleo R12 frame in this video, and was hoping to get some information on how to purchase this frame, and your thoughts on the quality of the frame when you received it as well as the cost. I live on Guam and hope that the company would be able to ship this to me via USPS. Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated. P.S. Keep making all these great videos👍
Just send an email to Yoeleo, I'm sure they will be able to help.
Looking at your video right now because I got the most recent R12 from Yoeleo but it seems to be different because it doesn't have a guide for the front derailleur cable and doesn't have a way to put a cable stop. What should I do?
The cable is internally routed, so the front derailleur should have the outer cable stopper. If it doesn't, you will have to buy a front derailleur with an outer cable stopper.
Hello,
can you please tell me where did you bought the black yellow cutter?The one that you cutt the brake housings.
Thank you.
Aliexpress
@@stevenleffanue and what would be the name of it, or how do I find it?
AU $15.33 30%OFF | WST025 Bicycle Hydraulic Brake Hose Cutter Tool
a.aliexpress.com/_mM908zP
Thank you for the quick response!
Hi Steven! thank you for your very useful videos..I need a little help. I want to buy a similar threads press fitt BB but in BB 86 and compatible with news Sram DUB standard.with 28.99 mm crank. I browsed the net but nowhere found. Do you have information is this type of BB is already available at any producer? thank You in advance!
Google "BB86 for SRAM dub" . Its a common type
You are absolutely legend! Could I know where you get this groupset? BTW I am your fan living in Sydney. Hope can meet you down at SA someday:)
Covid permitting , yeh , come for ride with us. Groupset from 'bikeinn'.
oz cycle Absolutely wanting to when permitted. Cheers
The outer cable housing goes the the BB shell and the the top of the shell then into the bottom of the front derailer.
What’s the length of the bolts at the rear? Got my R12 on route and used calipers with no bolts, so need to order? Thanks
142mm
Nice vid. What is the weight of the finished bike?
8.5kg
Hmm just received a 2021 R12 and there is *no* guide for the FD cable. Any advice on that? All I think is to wrap the cable around the BB sleeve
but that seems like a terrible idea...
You will need to talk to Yoeleo about that , there should be facility somehow
@@stevenleffanue I believe the trick is that the cable housing needs to mount to the FD. So there shouldn't be any tension against the BB. It's a tight turn for the cable so we'll see how that goes. Thx.
Very interested in purchasing the R12 myself and I was wondering, with the full length cable housing to the FD/RD, how long do you think those cables should last before needing a refresh? It would appear to me that you could recable the inners while leaving the outers at least a time or two, which would save a ton of time. Or do you suggest replacing inner & outer at the same time like with the traditional exterior / internally routed cables? Debating whether to go mechanical or just get Di2 to avoid all this (also debating whether all this hassle is worth it & just go with R11)....
Yes Di2 saves a bit of time but not money. Outers shouldnt require replacing until you are ready to buy a new bike anyhow.
So the R12 would not be a travel bike, right? Most bike bags req. disassembly of the handlebars & I just don't see an easy way to do that with this
True , must leave bars on
The big question is, WHERE do you buy complete groupset from??
Many online sellers have them. Got mine from 'Bikeinn'
@@stevenleffanue Thanks! Will try them.
Brilliant video, thanks
What Bottom Bracket do you use?