Ford Focus/Fiesta DPS6 Transmission Overheating Warning Message! Tips and Advice
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
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I have a 2012 Ford Focus with 225,000 miles and it still has the original transmission and TCM. All I did was to replace actuators and it shifts like a dream.
why did you replace those? what were your symptoms? and did you do any kind of relearn after the install?
@c2damak symptoms which lead to a failed clutch actuator are usually engagement concerns. They can be diagnosed by swapping clutch A and B actuators to see if the code transfers (follows the location of the actuator) which confirms actuator failure
Great video very well explained.
Dope video. I gonna try this see if it worka
Great video as all you previous videos, I replace my clutch and shift fork and make my owen tools same what you make easy in your videos.
But still I have issue and its when the drive the car for long time on hot wather the engine light on and the transmission not shift forward and reverse until car cool down.
And when scan it by scanner the code is p090c clutch B actuator control circuit low.
So, is that TCM failure?
@user-og5ii5xy3j hi, yeah the tcm is most likely bad, I'd get a used k05 tcm at a junkyard or ebay. Then have ford program it
Thanks for the video! I have a 2015 in the shop. I replaced the clutch and forks with the Luk kit and installed a Ford OEM reman TCM, I also replaced the ground connections from the TCM and rerouted them directly to the negative battery post. but I am still getting this overheat warning. I followed Ford Tech Makuloco's video exactly when i did the clutch including all of the adaptive learning steps. There was no signs of any leaking in the bellhousing. There is no shudder at any time but the RPM does rise a bit when pulling a hill in 6th from around 1850 to around 2000. Is that normal? Should it be like a manual while cruising with the RPM pretty much locked to MPH or do these transmissions slip a little on grades? Im kind of at a loss of where to go from here. The car drives and shifts great for a ASMT. There are no codes, although it did have a P2787 when it came in. THe problem happens exclusively at highway speeds while cruising.
Great video, this one! 👍
Thanks Detroit! Welcome back
Man, so busy working on my new house @@BigBensCarsAndCycles
@@DetroitMicroSound just saw this comment. I hear ya! Hope everything works out with it!
I have an issue with 2018 toyota thundra the high transmission fluid temperature warning comes on while driving then shortly after the low oil pressure warning also comes on with a check engine light then the car stalls and turns off itself. When I remove the battery head and put it back it starts and works normal until it happens again what can be the problem ?
I do work on this DPS6 like 5 different Focus all they work properly after u know remplace forks, lubricate parts, seal, clutch package, all grounds clean, etc. I have one right now with a different escenario, i do remplace forks, I taste the thickness of the clutch is on range, but at times display says overheating and still make all gears normal, i suspect maybe the 1ISS 2ISS or OSS already remplace, all the test pass like Clutch system, drums, learn adaptation, but when i'm doing the ISS test they fail the test around 2k RPM by 15 off the range, suppost to be like Input above 100rpm than the engine (how is that possible any clue??) maybe a CKP lying ??? any suggestion?? Thanks
Hey, honestly I can't understand some of what you mean, but If you don't have actuator codes and the clutch is getting hot, I suspect an issue or contamination of the clutch or apply components. Possibly a mechanical issue with an actuator. The speed sensors and ckp shouldn't play any role in a clutch adaptive learn. If there are codes for those sensors definitely fix that first though
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thanks for reply and time. Ok, I don't register any codes it is what feel like some electrical bug could happen, already check and clean very well with air compressor the dust for the clutch before install, I spin both clutch with the hand they move freely, I change both actuators before assembly all and then the "transmission overheating" appear, has new oil Motorcraft on level. It make me very curious how can ISS can register 100 RPM above the engine cuz as I understand flywheel is attach directly to the input shafts.
I have a 2013 ford focus 113k miles. Just had the bearings replaced and dust boots. Was driving and received the red exclamation ❗️ to pull over cause transmission was overheating and to wait 5 min. No lights on dash but my traction control light keep flickering? Which never happened before. Waited till it told me it was to drive and went about my way home I wasn’t far. It’s been parked since. Which was maybe 2 days ago
Check for transmission codes, you may have to pull the transmission back out and check for a seizing clutch fork or slave cylinder. Or fluid leakage onto the clutch
Can I check for codes if no nodes are showing on dash?
Sorry I meant the wheel bearings, transmission was not taken out I’ve had no issues with tranny before taking it to get wheel bearings replaced. So this is all new
The dealership told me my tcm was going out and auto zone said it was my starter cause my car was not starting at all I got my clutch replaced and the tcm reprogrammed how long does a reprogrammed last on a tcm but now my car is starting fine so I might just get the starter replaced
Hi, if you're TCM is failing, wait for it to happen again and take it to the dealership. The TCMs are free until 2025. Don't replace the starter, that's probably not the issue.
Do you think its possible to DIY, change the TCM and code it in. Also do you think its possible to DIY change the clutch.
Yes. I have videos on replacing each of those. Get forscan to program
@BigBensCarsAndCycles thank you. Without a ramp at home, is it still possible on driveway?
@@saq4575 I haven't done it at home, but its possible. I'd get tall jack stands and a Trans jack. Check out my clutch and fork replacement video on my Playlist for focus transmissions issues
Thank you, I am a car trader in the UK. I only buy and sell Focus Autos 11 to 14. But at least 4 out of 10 have these issues. So i have to deal with returns. There really good sellers but need a cunning plan how to fix these boxes.
I have a 2016 Ford Focus, tested and got code P07A3 and P2872 shows clutch A, the car is also showing transmission is hot and is driving a bit rough , what can I do or replace ?
Hi. You'll likely end up needing a clutch job and you should replace both actuators too. amzn.to/3SAqWXx
ruclips.net/video/EIJt9anfdSM/видео.htmlsi=I4wI5RItnv_0hUSp
ruclips.net/video/UBeWfEXdYLc/видео.htmlsi=Ib1-BX268BDH6E99
ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-actuator-ae8z7c604a
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thank you I’ll go ahead and try that and I’ll update:) !
I have a 2015 focus 115k miles
It started off as id be driving and the rpms would skyrocket as if it the trans was in neutral.
Then i had transmission overheating error 3x.
Now its saying transmission fault service now and doesnt want to leave 1st gear.
It should also be noted that it took roughly 8 months a few thousand miles for that to all transpire.
Majority of the time it drove like normal until a week ago where its at now undrivable.
I swapped A for B and B for A but the issue remains.
Is this a clutch/ fork issue or a TCM issue? Also ford has a extended warranty for 150k /10 years
Do those symptoms relate to that warranty?
Thank you in advance if you respond to this lengthy post.
Hi, you should have Ford diagnose it to see if it's a free tcm or a $3000 clutch job. Or tell me what code it has and I'll tell you what it is
@BigBensCarsAndCycles I scheduled an appointment which will be April 11. I don't have the tools to run the codes unfortunately but if I find away to do so I'll inform you.
With those symptoms what would be your guess? I know without the codes maybe it's a shot in the dark but just so I can prepare to drop 3g if so
Thank you for you timely response, very much appreciated!
@@DucksDoQuack symptoms can be similar between each failure. My guess is you should prepare for $3k
@BigBensCarsAndCycles bummer
I got the car for 2 grand and I rarely drive it so 3g is what it is I guess
once again thank you
What about if it’s at speeds of 75 mph I had a clutch and fork replacement and my brother cant even figure out what’s going on and he works at ford there no shutter no codes but I get transmission overheating then transmission fault
There's no temp sensor, it goes by an algorithm based on detected clutch slippage. I bet you have a failing clutch actuator. When a fork sticks or seizes, it can cause wear to the actuator. I've noticed it can cause poor engagement at highway speeds and the rpm will go all over and not engage at times. I can see why that would cause overheating of the clutch. I'd try replacing both actuators with new oem ones. And make sure there's no leaks onto the clutch
Check your wiring harness that goes under your air intake. The insulation on these wires is poor and moisture gets trapped in them. Wiring literally corrodes in place. The sensor sees a voltage drop. Your wiring is probably failing.
Hey I need some advice on my 2015 ford focus
Alright go ahead. You may want to make another comment so I get notified. Or thumbs up this comment
I have a 2017 Ford Feista SE automatic. Has been a good vehicle but all the sudden after driving for about 30 minutes it will start to slow down like the brakes are being applied and will stop eventually. If you put it in drive or park and give it gas it seems to want to go but almost feels like the brakes are stuck. If I wait an hour or so its fine but will do it again
Hi, do you have the dps6 dual clutch automatic? If so, next I need to know what fault codes are present
What if my transmission is overheating and dropping gears after you accelerate to fast or something or when it’s hot
Code is P0809
Check my new video "fool proof diagnosis for clutch stuck applied codes"
I had only got codes for the shift forks
Gotcha. Sticking clutch forks can cause a no-start. It might be fixed now that you had all that redone
My car used to shift very roughly and shake time to time... I was told to replace gear box which I did... It doesn't share that much now, but I had different problem - when driving above 80 km per hour for some time, like 40 minutes my new transmission was overheating... In the end after lots of trials, they said it was a software problem and reprogrammed the car.. After that I drove 2K miles without having the opportunity to test the same duration for that speed.. But recently it start to everheat in a traffic jam in about 40 minutes even though I often put it in N to avoid overheating... So no I don't know what the hell to do with this car... (I have replaced both actuators 2 years ago)...we've checked transmission sensors, seems ok. I've changed transmission liquid for no reason, just to be sure... Maybe it's time for TCM?!
The most frustrating is that technicians are guessing instead of really knowing what the hell ot wants
Need to know what codes it's setting and I'll give you some direction. Was it a used transmission or brand new? I'm guessing used since you're still having issues. Most of the time an overheating clutch is an issue with the clutch and apply components themselves.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles it was a new transmission.. Not directly bought from Ford though... And since its change I only drove 3000 km
what did you end up doing?
@@dashboy4l nothing.. no one helped in the end.. :/
@@tatiakartvelishvili9506 damn this hurts 🥲 currently having the same issues and i just got this car.
Hello, my trans is throwing the overheating massage. Code is p2872 Actuator A. I did replace it, didn’t replace the B. I did change the trans oil which it was only a qtr and oil was really dirty. I scrapped the ground terminals to get better results. Got the engine coolant to the right level and after doing all that i still getting the same warning. Got the warning but after 2 minutes i put the car on reverse and it drives. Should i clean the part where the actuators goes in? To see if the forks start engaging? Idk im so confused. Maybe the TCM
That's most likely a seizing clutch A actuator or failing slave cylinder. I would do a clutch and fork replacement, and slave cylinder. I've got videos for doing that. Let me know if you need any help. I have a discord and facebook group
Owner is selling car and said they replaced transmission but still getting overheated message
Unfortunately when you install a used transmission, you really should put a new clutch and forks in it because they all fail eventually
What’s a clutch shutter? Mines been sitting for 6 months and now that I’m driving it again it’s struggling to switch gears, and tranny keeps running hot. It drives fine once I’m on the interstate I’m guessing because I’m not switching gears but I don’t know. I added a quart of tranny fluid, but it’s a sealed transmission so I can’t check to see if there’s enough and I’m scared to add too much.
A clutch shudder is a Shaking sensation at low speed acceleration. Low fluid won't cause any observable symptoms. I have a fluid service video you can watch on this to get the level correct if you want. Anyway, first thing I'd do is check for codes. If there are none it could be a sticking fork or actuator. You can try hard acceleration several times to dust the cobwebs off before spending money
My wife had the overheating issue and I had told her to check coolant she was empty and we brought more than a a gallon of water and it poured out in the same area your thumbnail points just not really any surface area to see where
The water outlet is there, that may be the leak.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles ok I’ve searched around and majority do say the water outlet but I’m unsure as to how to prove it is without taking it off as I have the titanium hatchback I’m unsure if the layout is different but the outlet looks to be metal but I could be mistaken for a colored plastic
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thank you for your insight and time. Fast response for an old video you earned my respect and subscription👍
Hi I have 3 code on my car p07a3 and p286f and p2872
You probably need a new clutch, forks and slave cylinder. They all come in the LuK repset
Is that it is easy fix also get a message, trans overheating
Do I need to change both clutches?
@user-vz3pt4bt6r both clutches are serviced as 1 assembly. And I have videos on how to do the job. It's a bit advanced if you're a beginner at car repair, but if you're fairly experienced you can handle it
So all I need to do change the clutch’s on there
Is this automatical what
This is a dual clutch automatic (dct)
So there is literally no temp sensor. Then if the clutch actuators start to stick or any other transmission code pops up, then this must be the trans check light. Basically saying hey you need to scan me.
It is an automatic / electric built in clutch , I guess it's called. and it doesn't show any codes
I'll have to get you to record video of the issue to post in my discord or Facebook group
2017 Ford Feista SE non-turbo. You responded to my question the other day and ask if I could send a video you could upload. I have the car up on jackstands becauae I wanted to check the front breaks because like I said it seems like the brakes apply themself while driving eventually bringing the car to a stop. When you give it gas in drive or reverse it bucks up and wants to go but it seems like the brakes are locked up. I just took the calipers off and they were tight so I pressed the brakes with the cat running to see if the pistons came out and neither one moves. Would greatly appreciate ur thoughts
@@hughbunyea4703 hi, the reason I was asking for you to post the video is to see what your car is doing. But, after you explained your problem again now, it sounds like typical clutch shudder which these all get. You can drive the car hard occasionally to mitigate the shudder. Or replace the clutch and apply components. amzn.to/4bhn3iK
@BigBensCarsAndCycles just strange because it only has 70,000 miles and we baby it
@hughbunyea4703 babying it is actually bad for developing shudder, believe it or not. And 70k is high miles for an original clutch. I would drive it full throttle onto the highway 5 to 10 times and that'll help smothen it out for a while. Eventually a clutch fork will lock up from debris and junk. Usually every 100k miles you'll want a clutch and fork replacement. I've got lots of videos showing how to do that, without special tools. Let me know how I can help.