This 1 MINUTE Video COULD SAVE Your Engine Rebuild! Measure Crank Clearance Easily.
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- Опубликовано: 25 янв 2024
- Measuring crank main bearing clearance using plastigauge. A simple way to know what condition your crank is in when rebuilding an engine.
This is an effective, cheap and easy system that has been used successfully for decades. 
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Plastigauge can be used when you don't have a mic, but is not a substitute for one. Also, in this video it is incorrectly used. The plastigauge should be put on the crank after the crank is set into the bearings on the saddles. Once crank is in place, put plastigauage on the crank journal, and then install and torque the main cap. You do not need to install all the caps at once, you can do one at a time, which is preferred. Remove the cap then measure the crush of the material for clearance. Putting it in the block first then putting the crank on top of it will result in an incorrect reading due to the weigh of the crank assisting in the compression of the gauge. It is also likely that you'll affect the reading when removing the crank, which is why it should be done on the crank and not the saddles.
im working as a mechanic but im yet to replace crank or conrod bearings. its a mystery to me that if you use torque-to-yield bolts, should you buy multiple sets? can you reuse and retorque the new bolts after checking clearance even though they yielded, whether with a micrometer or plastigauge?
i've never seen this being mentioned anywhere and scares the shit out of me for the day i need to do a rebuild that requires crank/conrods
You’ll find generally that crank bolts are ok to reuse even after checking clearance. It’s usually only head bolts that are a one shot deal as they are designed to stretch, but only once.
Plastic age website says you should be using four of these so that you can measure the tolerance around all four sides. The pressure of it crushing on one side can actually reduce the tolerance on the other side to zero or something like that
I’d love to know how your meant to have it stay in place on four sides?
@@wellwhatdoyouknow670 you can put it in place by putting 1 at bottom, 2 near sides then drop one on top before closing the sucker up and boom now you have it more consistant.
@@pilotavery nope. No way can you keep it at the sides without it moving or getting between the main cap and con rod
@@wellwhatdoyouknow670 oh it worked for me, it's ever so slightly sticky.
I think it’s good stuff overall although I did get burnt once when I only checked number one cylinder and assumed the others are all the same
And it turned out that someone had run into trouble previously and some of the journals were machined oversize, and some were still standard
So that is always upsetting having to pull the motor out after it’s knocking its balls off when you’ve just freshly rebuilt it……!!!!
Lesson learnt there.
Good stuff mate.
thanks mate, sorry about your bad experience though. that would suck.
Don't ever use this crap. Use micrometers only. It shows size in one tiny spot only.
Go sit down junior. If we need anything from you we will be sure to toss you a juice box.
and when you can’t afford or don’t have access to micrometers? a few bucks for plastigauge, easy done. Was good enough for a triple champion drag race engineer I knew…so good enough for me!
No engine builder would ever use this stuff and you should not say that they do. You have to at least have a 1 inch micrometer to check to see if the plastigauge is right.@@wellwhatdoyouknow670
I used a micro AND confirmed with plastigauge and they came out as the same so I have no problem recommending it as a cheaper option for guys on a real tight budget