Thank you for another proper Landy tutorial Sir ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Don't you wish all cars were built like this. Landy's are such a pleasure to maintain, compared to the overcomplicated disposable vehicles of today, with the need to resetting ECU's when you change a prop bearing, and so many parts made of fragile plastic and tiny things! I hope you have many more years with your Defender, and wonder if she has a name too ☺️
Your teaching ability is superb. One of the best instructional LR vids i've seen because you don't assume the viewer has a lot of mechanical background. Thank you!
Mate, I can back Nice up - what a fantastic way of getting an idea, what to check and how to check in case of backlash, as Defenders are so much prone for it. I've had 3 Defenders by now and all of them were clunking. 2008 Puma still is and if you have any ideas, how to check is the clunk from MT82 adaptor shaft or back diff, that would be great!
This is EXACTLY what I need to do! Was getting the clunk before at certain times when taking off. Just got my car back from the mechanic changing the rear wheel bearings and brakes and now I'm hearing it when I lift off the gas. Looking forward to sorting this one out. Thank you!
Me too but sad thing is this is happening on my 2018 D5 with less than 25K miles on it 😭 changed differential Fluid got a little better but still occurs
Hey. This comment came up and reminded me. Was able to change the caps for the heavy duty a few months ago. Works great, no leaks. Thanks again @@D3Sshooter
Excellent. So the splines on your rear half shafts wore down before the half shaft(s) broke. Very interesting. On my Series IIA's and III's that I owned many years ago, I never had to replace half shafts due to wear on the splines. This applies to inner and outer ends. I did, however, have a number of rear half shafts break. I always used Rover shafts (591378 for the RH, and 591379 for the LH). There was a day when you could count on these breaking in 20,000 to 30,000 miles. I should add, however, that I ran Michelin 9.00 x 16 tires on both my 88" and 109" vehicles. My 109 was a 1967 6-cylinder NADA station wagon, so that too, used Rover axles. The original rear diff was a limited slip type. Thanks for the wonderful video!
I thought I would just pass on my thanks. Replaced my rear half shafts today and it was so straightforward thanks to your brilliant videos. Did exactly as you did and it was so simple. Thanks again 🙏
From a Jeep owner are the axles and flanges lubricated by the center diff oil if not you should have put a little grease on those not anti-corrosion hence you had rust the last time
What's nuts is that I used your videos to fix my Elise up until I sold it, now I'm using your videos to fix my Defender. Very informative and easy to follow, Thanks.
Excellent video I had the same problem on my 110 puma, I change the half shafts for the older discovery one piece shafts with no separate drive flange,no more wear!
Thank you so much! I own a defender 110 and have the same kind of backlash and feel fully confident I can diagnose and fix it because of this tutorial! Fantastic!
couple of suggestions, when using the bar to hold the hub is to put a nut on the stud to reduce chance of damaging the threads on the studs. also don't need to put so much sealant on the differential flange and it can get into the diff oil and cause a sticky mess also small thing is not to put the cir-clip on the halfshaft til you have bolted the flange in place, reasoning it it might need some shims installed to removed endfloat ;) otherwise very good and informative videos
Also forgot to mention there is no need to replace the whole prop-shaft, it is a lot cheaper to get a replacement CV/union joint instead. Price difference of a few hundred euro 😉
Robert Pedersen yes indeed. However if the spline is worn there is no other option and after 200k km. That is not a bad thing to do. Of course if its only the cross joints then yes . Txs
Great video, I'll have to do something like this soon on my Discovery 2 as I have the same sort of clunking. Haven't tracked it down yet though to the front or the rear.
The axle splines wear and drive flanges wear at the outer splines, which you have demonstrated very well. You need to grease the splines at the drive flanges to prevent wear . It is more important to do this than grease any of the other parts covered. The neglect of this is why they wear.
A special trick !!! Steve try put GRAPHITE PASTE in the splines of the shafts in the differential, also in the outer cover ! BE GENEROUS !!! (if you do ....?)
hi just wondered on your thoughts for greasing the splines on both ends. this is something iv have personally always done without any issues. iv always found it reduces the fretting and they seem to last much longer. i also add a small amount of oil treatment which is really thick to the dust caps about twice a year if you put them on quickly and they are a good tight fit nothing leaks out.. great vid by the way thanks..
Too late for you but there is an alternative. Later 24 spline halfshafts FTC3270/1 come with the drive flange as parts of the shaft. I've retired now, but we fitted dozens of them to replace worn spline shafts.
Great video, but just one thing to notice: Don´t you should grease the splines in shaft and flange ??? otherwise you got metal-metal contact... Thanks for sharing!
Why are you not spaying the underside of your L/Rover with oil , I've been doing mine once a year since the 70s and it is still like it was when it left the factory ,totally rust free ( in conjunction with intermittent power washes when required.).
@@D3Sshooter Hi ,thanks for the reply , please omit the diesel you will never get rid of the smell !.I just use a light coat of new e/oil before winter .
I use 3/8 motor oil and 5/8 boiled linseed oil, melt in 2 cubic cm of paraffin wax sprayed on @100 deg. You can make some with even more wax for brushing on. It takes a week or so to firm up but during that time it creeps into all those small crevices. Because the boiled linseed oil hardens somewhat and the fact that there is wax in the mix it builds up a coating that will not wash off. I've been using it for many years, after coating it two years it seems to last forever.
Hey am Johnson from Zambia and a defender fun, part Two of fixing the rear differential was simply amazing. The defender shop to talked about in the Netherlands is it online please share contacts
Thank you so much for your time to explain everything in detail. I have a question for you, can be fitted this Rear differential of Defender 110 4 pins on Discovery 1 1995. this is really strong enough I think. i have one differential the same one but i'm not sure if it ok or not. thank you in advance. Fredi
Can you please please pleeeeease do one on a Salisbury rear diff. My half shafts are fine as are the flanges. Do the play must be in the rear diff??? And i have no idea as it does not come out so difficult to work on esp a novice like me. Thanks. Great vids.
Frank H I spry anti corrosive on the halfshaft and the spline that goes into the diff is dipped with diif oil. The flange itself is protected with copper grease
Why didn't you put any lubricant on the end of the half shaft towards the flange by the wheel? especially since you saw how much where it gets, lubricant would slow that down.
Hi. Great video. I have had a similar amount of play in both front and rear axles of my 300tdi 90 since I bought it 5 years ago. Mine has the rear half shafts and drive flanges in one piece and the front drive flanges have very little wear. I hear a lot of talk about half shafts and drive flanges wearing but no one mentions wear in the splines of the diff. In your experience is it likely that my play may be in the diff splines? Mines now done 300k kms but I have no real history of work done before I bought it. Thanks again for your videos.
I'm not a big fan of silicone alone as a gasket , I would have used the paper gasket with the silicone and just put the tear at the top of the housing.
The Defender has an open rear differential I see. Am I right to guess that you can manually lock the front, center and rear differentials from within the Land Rover?
Thanks for your video. I have some problems with my old Russian 4x4 Gaz 69. Clunking and vibrations from somewhere I can not quite find out. How I have input on how to test rear axle :-)
@@D3Sshooter ahh ok, thanks for clarifying. Im wondering if the half shaft flange could be tested for wear by suspending the rear tires and holding the prop shaft and having another person wiggle the tires back and forth like you did to listen for a clang or clunk. I would like to mimic your test bench without removing parts. im thinking my 96 tacoma will need a job done to the differential since I am seeing the same kind of clunkiness in my tires and not so much but still a noticeable amount in the prop shaft that is the loudest clang when letting off the clutch while driving sometimes
Hello sir, I have a doubt. When you mounted the diff with liquid seal, I saw it being squeezed out. The same would have happened inside aswel. Wouldn't that be a problem , when it comes in contact with oil and starts peeling off?
Would removing the flanges/halfshafts for inspection without draining the differential oil work fine or would the oil burst out through the halfshaft channels?
mqsism that should be no problem. Unless the landy is not standing level and is tipped to one side. Or the diff is overfilled. Otherwise it is no problem. Txs for commenting
have a 1991 Defender Diesel 2.5 and she has Not been started in sixt years, she is outside what is your advice to me before I try and fire her up...? Should I try and get her to turn over by hand first before I turn her over on the Battery? I am afraid I will destroy the Piston Rings I need advice Please......................................................................................
P. O'Neill it all depends on how she was stored. But no matter what some valves have been open for years and you might have mild oxidation on the cylinder. And as you say stuck pistonrings. Here is what i would do. Remove the injectors, spray wd40 into the cylinders , let it sit for a day or do, give it another spray and rotate by hand the cranckshaft, back and forth untill it starts to rotate easy. Dont forget to change the oil. Good luck
Dry half shaft splines into the diff and drive flange, that's a recipe for disaster, dry wheel bearing locking nuts. Prior to installing halfshaft into axle grease splines on both ends and a thin layer of grease on the half shaft itself. Will prevent wear on splines and inhibit rust on halfshaft and locking nuts. Good video though.
Hello, please help me with a problem, the rear wheels locked and I have a similar but very loud sound, do you know what it is? record a video. Thank you.
i dont get what actually holds the shaft in place,the c clip is on the out side,does nothing,the axle should have the flange as part so the whole flange/axle come out as unit,that is very arcage engineering,like landi 1a,never advanced.plus you neeed more grease on splines.no wander it was full of rust,water ingress.driving thru water when hot,not waiting 5 mins for diffs to cool down,id be checking the front.as well..
The shaft is wider after the splines so it can't pass through the drive flange, the Circlip then stops the shaft from being pushed back. The oil seal can be removed allowing the spines to become lubricated with Diff oil to prevent future wear. You could also upgrade with HD flanges that have a large nut instead of the rubber cone which helps with water ingress.
Hi what do you know about the ECU on the td5 mine has just cut out no management or glow plug light no fuel pump but turns over checked earths relays and fuses .any help would be a God send
bassassin are you able to connect to the diagnostics plug. Then you could read to codes. But if you do not have the tool then i would check all the input leads on the connector to the ecu as there are cases that oil has creeped up to connector/harmess causing wrong input signals to the ecu. Disconnect the connectors on the ecu and check thst there is no oil creep on it. If there is clean it all and just hope that it clears the issue. In extreem cases the ecu is spoiled. But all this is very hard to tell from here
bassassin the ecu gets 12 volt from fuse f12. 10amps in passenger fuse box. That fuse box gets power from the ignition switch. And that switch gets it from fuse fl5 60amps in the under seat fusebox and this one from the battery 12v pole. Check this first
D3Sshooter I have replaced the injector loom and regularly cleaned the red ECU plug I have had it on a snap on diagnostic tool but it wouldn't connect I cracked open the ECU but can't see any obvious damage or any oil ingress inside I think that it may be an expensive ECU replacement
Thank you for another proper Landy tutorial Sir ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Don't you wish all cars were built like this. Landy's are such a pleasure to maintain, compared to the overcomplicated disposable vehicles of today, with the need to resetting ECU's when you change a prop bearing, and so many parts made of fragile plastic and tiny things!
I hope you have many more years with your Defender, and wonder if she has a name too ☺️
One of the best videos on Land Rovers I've seen - Well explained, concise and to the point with no unrequired chat. Good job
Thank you, I try
Your teaching ability is superb. One of the best instructional LR vids i've seen because you don't assume the viewer has a lot of mechanical background. Thank you!
Nick Devlin thanks Nick
Mate, I can back Nice up - what a fantastic way of getting an idea, what to check and how to check in case of backlash, as Defenders are so much prone for it. I've had 3 Defenders by now and all of them were clunking. 2008 Puma still is and if you have any ideas, how to check is the clunk from MT82 adaptor shaft or back diff, that would be great!
mqsism txs. I will need to dig in a bit before i can give a meaning answer
This is EXACTLY what I need to do! Was getting the clunk before at certain times when taking off. Just got my car back from the mechanic changing the rear wheel bearings and brakes and now I'm hearing it when I lift off the gas. Looking forward to sorting this one out. Thank you!
Thank you for the comments.
Me too but sad thing is this is happening on my 2018 D5 with less than 25K miles on it 😭 changed differential Fluid got a little better but still occurs
No fuss no bother just clear information and great delivery by you thanks , 1984 110 v8 lover😊
Hey. This comment came up and reminded me. Was able to change the caps for the heavy duty a few months ago. Works great, no leaks. Thanks again @@D3Sshooter
Excellent. So the splines on your rear half shafts wore down before the half shaft(s) broke. Very interesting. On my Series IIA's and III's that I owned many years ago, I never had to replace half shafts due to wear on the splines. This applies to inner and outer ends. I did, however, have a number of rear half shafts break. I always used Rover shafts (591378 for the RH, and 591379 for the LH). There was a day when you could count on these breaking in 20,000 to 30,000 miles. I should add, however, that I ran Michelin 9.00 x 16 tires on both my 88" and 109" vehicles. My 109 was a 1967 6-cylinder NADA station wagon, so that too, used Rover axles. The original rear diff was a limited slip type. Thanks for the wonderful video!
Thank you for the comments, I pull a lot of trailers , that is maybe why. Good tip to grease them.
Clear, concise and professional, exactly what’s required when needed. Thank you
Txs for the comments
I thought I would just pass on my thanks. Replaced my rear half shafts today and it was so straightforward thanks to your brilliant videos. Did exactly as you did and it was so simple. Thanks again 🙏
Thanks for making it look so simple and clear. Amazing job and thanks for putting me on the defendershop too.
My pleasure
Professional clean work, you make michanic work easy and fun. Best regards,
Thanks
From a Jeep owner are the axles and flanges lubricated by the center diff oil if not you should have put a little grease on those not anti-corrosion hence you had rust the last time
TXS for your comments
What's nuts is that I used your videos to fix my Elise up until I sold it, now I'm using your videos to fix my Defender. Very informative and easy to follow, Thanks.
Great to hear!
Excellent video I had the same problem on my 110 puma, I change the half shafts for the older discovery one piece shafts with no separate drive flange,no more wear!
Good tip!
This was pure gold. Thank your sir!
Thank you so much! I own a defender 110 and have the same kind of backlash and feel fully confident I can diagnose and fix it because of this tutorial! Fantastic!
Aaron Cordeiro thanks and goodluck. Its very. Easy
Very concise,deligent and detailed, Thank you very much
TCS
Uw video's zijn uitermate duidelijk , de filmkwaliteit is perfect, en uw uitleg ook. Mijn hartelijke dank voor uw video's. Geweldig !!!
Thanks for the comment, dat is heel graag gedaan.
Very useful video !! Thanks 👍
You're welcome!
Nice clear video, thank you. A 1/2" square drive ratchet works well for the diff plugs.
V tfzf txs good tip
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
couple of suggestions, when using the bar to hold the hub is to put a nut on the stud to reduce chance of damaging the threads on the studs. also don't need to put so much sealant on the differential flange and it can get into the diff oil and cause a sticky mess also small thing is not to put the cir-clip on the halfshaft til you have bolted the flange in place, reasoning it it might need some shims installed to removed endfloat ;) otherwise very good and informative videos
Robert Pedersen very good tips. Txs
Also forgot to mention there is no need to replace the whole prop-shaft, it is a lot cheaper to get a replacement CV/union joint instead. Price difference of a few hundred euro 😉
Robert Pedersen yes indeed. However if the spline is worn there is no other option and after 200k km. That is not a bad thing to do. Of course if its only the cross joints then yes . Txs
Yep! Great instructions thank you very much. Merry Christmas to you.
Mark Millar merry Christmas
Great video, I'll have to do something like this soon on my Discovery 2 as I have the same sort of clunking. Haven't tracked it down yet though to the front or the rear.
As always very informative great knowledge passed on
Norm Fergus txs
Excellent. Many thanks...
My pleasure and txs fot the comments
good video and also the sound is as good. like your radio microphone
Thank , I am trying
Great video, good presentation.
Thanks Bill
Absolutely brilliant 👍🏻🇬🇧
Thanks for the comments,
Fantastic part 2! Many likes!
Herbert Masing txs
Great video, easy to follow and some good tips
thanks richard
Such a good video! I’m having this exact issue atm and no idea where to start. Need to find a good garage!
very nice well done and generous with your time. thank you.
Perfect tutorial! Now i really feel i want to repair my rear axles.. The only problem is that they aren't broken. haha
Thanks for the comments
Just waiting for this 2nd part, my friend! Great video!!
Sandro2746 thank you and i hope that it helps you.
Excellent video! Thanks!
Thanks for this good video!! Merci pour cette vidéo parfaite et pédagogique! Bruno from Grenoble France
Thanks for the comments... pas de problem .. nous sommes tous des fan du Landrover
Wow. Great video. Thank you so much. I can now fix my 1997 Discovery.
yes slide it in gently. Well done. Looks just like the Toyota van rear end I am working on.
The axle splines wear and drive flanges wear at the outer splines, which you have demonstrated very well.
You need to grease the splines at the drive flanges to prevent wear .
It is more important to do this than grease any of the other parts covered.
The neglect of this is why they wear.
Thanks for the comments
Thank you for your video, great help for me.
Glad it helped
Good video. My half shaft on my disco 2 has snapped so this is my next job.
Good luck!
A special trick !!! Steve try put GRAPHITE PASTE in the splines of the shafts in the differential, also in the outer cover ! BE GENEROUS !!! (if you do ....?)
Thanks for the comments Marcel
.....grease the splines where flange and half shaft come into contact. I would really suggest to put grease there.
good tip, txs for the comment
Well done, thank you! More videos on the Defender, please :)
Thanks , and yes more will come your way .. planning more on the fuel system, injector wiring harness etc,,
Well done, nice job.
Thank you! Cheers!
hi just wondered on your thoughts for greasing the splines on both ends. this is something iv have personally always done without any issues. iv always found it reduces the fretting and they seem to last much longer. i also add a small amount of oil treatment which is really thick to the dust caps about twice a year if you put them on quickly and they are a good tight fit nothing leaks out.. great vid by the way thanks..
Thank you for the comments, yes indeed that is a good point
Too late for you but there is an alternative. Later 24 spline halfshafts FTC3270/1 come with the drive flange as parts of the shaft. I've retired now, but we fitted dozens of them to replace worn spline shafts.
Great videos thanks so much ..I feel I can do this now ..take care .
Best of luck!
Very clear Thanks a lot
thanks for the comments
thank you very much, that helped me a lot!
You're welcome!
delicious piece of a video :)
Glad you think so!
excellent
Many many thanks
Great video, but just one thing to notice: Don´t you should grease the splines in shaft and flange ??? otherwise you got metal-metal contact... Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comments, indeed and I did , but did not show it ... It was a anti corrosion and friction spray
I am having that same issue with my front differential on my 4×4, now I know what to do, thanks
Glad I could help
Great! Many thanks
Why are you not spaying the underside of your L/Rover with oil , I've been doing mine once a year since the 70s and it is still like it was when it left the factory ,totally rust free ( in conjunction with intermittent power washes when required.).
Thanks for the comments, I might just do that, oil mixed with a bit of diesel
@@D3Sshooter Hi ,thanks for the reply , please omit the diesel you will never get rid of the smell !.I just use a light coat of new e/oil before winter .
I use 3/8 motor oil and 5/8 boiled linseed oil, melt in 2 cubic cm of paraffin wax sprayed on @100 deg. You can make some with even more wax for brushing on. It takes a week or so to firm up but during that time it creeps into all those small crevices. Because the boiled linseed oil hardens somewhat and the fact that there is wax in the mix it builds up a coating that will not wash off. I've been using it for many years, after coating it two years it seems to last forever.
Im going to try this
Hey am Johnson from Zambia and a defender fun, part Two of fixing the rear differential was simply amazing.
The defender shop to talked about in the Netherlands is it online please share contacts
Thank you so much for your time to explain everything in detail. I have a question for you, can be fitted this Rear differential of Defender 110 4 pins on Discovery 1 1995. this is really strong enough I think. i have one differential the same one but i'm not sure if it ok or not. thank you in advance. Fredi
great work, what about the transfer case upgrade?
This video is very helpful👌
Can we apply the same method to defender puma 2.4
Depending on age of Landrover you might find that a 1/2" drive fits directly into the diff plugs when filling with oil..
Indeed, thanks for the comments
Can you please please pleeeeease do one on a Salisbury rear diff. My half shafts are fine as are the flanges. Do the play must be in the rear diff??? And i have no idea as it does not come out so difficult to work on esp a novice like me. Thanks. Great vids.
Thanks for the comments, I will as soon as I have one
Great again, thanks. So you don't grease the splines where flange and half shaft come into contact?
Frank H only anti-corrosion spray
Frank H I spry anti corrosive on the halfshaft and the spline that goes into the diff is dipped with diif oil. The flange itself is protected with copper grease
Why didn't you put any lubricant on the end of the half shaft towards the flange by the wheel? especially since you saw how much where it gets, lubricant would slow that down.
Thanks for the comments, that is a good point ...
Hi. Great video. I have had a similar amount of play in both front and rear axles of my 300tdi 90 since I bought it 5 years ago. Mine has the rear half shafts and drive flanges in one piece and the front drive flanges have very little wear. I hear a lot of talk about half shafts and drive flanges wearing but no one mentions wear in the splines of the diff. In your experience is it likely that my play may be in the diff splines? Mines now done 300k kms but I have no real history of work done before I bought it.
Thanks again for your videos.
Aqua Tom txs for the comments. That might very well be the case. (Splines). Best is to take things appart and inspect/measure it all
I'm not a big fan of silicone alone as a gasket , I would have used the paper gasket with the silicone and just put the tear at the top of the housing.
Thank you for the comments, and that is an option . Note that I used a special seal kit
👍🎥 danke je....
The Defender has an open rear differential I see. Am I right to guess that you can manually lock the front, center and rear differentials from within the Land Rover?
No, only the centre. You need to modify the front and rear with locker diffs.
The diff plugs are actually the size of a ratchet, no need for a special tool,
TXS
D3Sshooter Groetjes :-)
Can you please Tell the brand of the spray sealant for the diff-housing you used...
Hi free, its Loctite SI5910, Quick Gasket works as a champ
D3Sshooter thx
Thanks for your video. I have some problems with my old Russian 4x4 Gaz 69. Clunking and vibrations from somewhere I can not quite find out. How I have input on how to test rear axle :-)
Not an easy thing to do... sounds like plat or wear and tear in the drive system. You will need to do check that by exclsuion
why didnt you check if the half shaft was worn inside the differential? wouldnt it be as worn as the flange on the wheel side?
Good point, and i did check it.. That was really not worn at all...Maybe I should have made that clear
@@D3Sshooter ahh ok, thanks for clarifying. Im wondering if the half shaft flange could be tested for wear by suspending the rear tires and holding the prop shaft and having another person wiggle the tires back and forth like you did to listen for a clang or clunk. I would like to mimic your test bench without removing parts. im thinking my 96 tacoma will need a job done to the differential since I am seeing the same kind of clunkiness in my tires and not so much but still a noticeable amount in the prop shaft that is the loudest clang when letting off the clutch while driving sometimes
Hello sir, I have a doubt. When you mounted the diff with liquid seal, I saw it being squeezed out. The same would have happened inside aswel. Wouldn't that be a problem , when it comes in contact with oil and starts peeling off?
Yes, correct. That is why you apply not to much and close to the outer rim/
Thank you sir
Would removing the flanges/halfshafts for inspection without draining the differential oil work fine or would the oil burst out through the halfshaft channels?
mqsism that should be no problem. Unless the landy is not standing level and is tipped to one side. Or the diff is overfilled. Otherwise it is no problem. Txs for commenting
have a 1991 Defender Diesel 2.5 and she has Not been started in sixt years, she is outside what is your advice to me before I try and fire her up...? Should I try and get her to turn over by hand first before I turn her over on the Battery? I am afraid I will destroy the Piston Rings I need advice Please......................................................................................
P. O'Neill it all depends on how she was stored. But no matter what some valves have been open for years and you might have mild oxidation on the cylinder. And as you say stuck pistonrings. Here is what i would do. Remove the injectors, spray wd40 into the cylinders , let it sit for a day or do, give it another spray and rotate by hand the cranckshaft, back and forth untill it starts to rotate easy. Dont forget to change the oil. Good luck
My l322 clunk when braking to stop.any idea?
Could be many things including lose brake calibers or suspension bushes
@@D3Sshooter the clunk sound came from the front end shaft
@@Mohamed61110 Thanks fo coming back , that is solved then ?
Please can someone post a link to part one ? I’m having trouble getting my half shaft out!
Have a look on the playlist defender on my channel d3sshooter
*Also where do you get parts?
Thank you for the comments. at Britpart
Dry half shaft splines into the diff and drive flange, that's a recipe for disaster, dry wheel bearing locking nuts. Prior to installing halfshaft into axle grease splines on both ends and a thin layer of grease on the half shaft itself. Will prevent wear on splines and inhibit rust on halfshaft and locking nuts. Good video though.
Thanks for the comments,
Hello, please help me with a problem, the rear wheels locked and I have a similar but very loud sound, do you know what it is? record a video. Thank you.
Let me check, please provide more detail as it can be many things
12:15 the back sound ;-)
i dont get what actually holds the shaft in place,the c clip is on the out side,does nothing,the axle should have the flange as part so the whole flange/axle come out as unit,that is very arcage engineering,like landi 1a,never advanced.plus you neeed more grease on splines.no wander it was full of rust,water ingress.driving thru water when hot,not waiting 5 mins for diffs to cool down,id be checking the front.as well..
The shaft is wider after the splines so it can't pass through the drive flange, the Circlip then stops the shaft from being pushed back. The oil seal can be removed allowing the spines to become lubricated with Diff oil to prevent future wear. You could also upgrade with HD flanges that have a large nut instead of the rubber cone which helps with water ingress.
Hi what do you know about the ECU on the td5 mine has just cut out no management or glow plug light no fuel pump but turns over checked earths relays and fuses .any help would be a God send
bassassin are you able to connect to the diagnostics plug. Then you could read to codes. But if you do not have the tool then i would check all the input leads on the connector to the ecu as there are cases that oil has creeped up to connector/harmess causing wrong input signals to the ecu. Disconnect the connectors on the ecu and check thst there is no oil creep on it. If there is clean it all and just hope that it clears the issue. In extreem cases the ecu is spoiled. But all this is very hard to tell from here
bassassin also check that the ecu has proper grounding and 12 volts supply
bassassin the ecu gets 12 volt from fuse f12. 10amps in passenger fuse box. That fuse box gets power from the ignition switch. And that switch gets it from fuse fl5 60amps in the under seat fusebox and this one from the battery 12v pole. Check this first
D3Sshooter I have replaced the injector loom and regularly cleaned the red ECU plug I have had it on a snap on diagnostic tool but it wouldn't connect I cracked open the ECU but can't see any obvious damage or any oil ingress inside I think that it may be an expensive ECU replacement
bassassin on the ecu you should measure 12 volts between the w/g wire and the black wire with the ignition turned on
Parts made in INDIA !!! I know this in S.A. we could get them also !
I could get aluminum gasket for the differential !! (good no leaks)
I thought you didn't like landrovers D3Sshooter
I love them, I have one and will keep it... that one video was a bit sarcastic... I know ... the clue was at the end...
Fantastic video thank you, I have read lots of waffle but you explained it superbly and I can see what is wrong now with my Puma 110.
My pleasure. Happy that it helped
You seriously don’t support your vehicle on Allen keys do you?!
Hahaha
is farting also part of the process?
its a must