Hi Frank, I have just watched your build and review videos on this model, literally after having just completed building this from Ivan's original instructions that use only one L motor (so it doesn't drive or steer), having supplied all the parts from my own stock. I think you may be interested to read my experiences on this build... The instructions I purchased online did not come with a parts list, and this was a huge issue for me. Despite spending days trawling through them trying to identify what extra parts I would need, it was impossible to get it all right, and in the end my assembly was halted 4 times in order for me to buy the extra pieces I discovered I was short. Each time I would go on to doing other things, and so production was sometimes suspended for months, and as a result this has taken me just more than a year to build - I am glad to have finally finished it! The main thing I wanted to mention is that the pneumatics (BTW, the 'P' is silent in pneumatics) on my model work much more smoothly than you demonstrated, and I really am able to operate the arms up and down with a reasonably smooth and controlled action, even at full reach. I think the reason for this is two things... 1. Although you shut the control valve off to the primary lift rams when you were demonstrating it manually, I suspect that when you were filming it with the pump operating on the motor, you have left the first valve open in the 'up' position. This is not necessary as closing the valve will create a good seal and keep the air pressure in well enough to hold the arm in position. By leaving it open, you have allowed a cross feed to the next valve you operate, so that when you open the next valve, it pushes a whole load of high pressure air from the primary lift rams into the secondary lift rams. This causes the second lifting stage to fling open dramatically, and at the same time, dumps all the pressure from the primary lift circuit. Try operating it in a way where you close each valve after operating the ram, BEFORE opening the valve to the next ram - I think you will see a huge improvement. 2. There is so much weight pushing down on the primary lift arm, that it doesn't need a return feed, and this connection on the 'down' position of the valve has been left unconnected. Instead the primary lift arm is allowed to fall under gravity when the valve is moved to the 'down' position and the air is dumped from the rams, but this can be a fairly violent action, with the arms dropping instantly, and I wouldn't want to be stood underneath when it happened! I have made a small modification that has solved this perfectly. I attached a small length of hose (only about 5 cm) to the unconnected nipple on the valve. This hose I blocked off at the end, and then made a TINY pin hole in the side, which allows only a trickle of pressurised air through it. It was also necessary to swap the other two hoses around on the valve so that air flows through the valve in the opposite direction. The reason for this is complicated to explain, but these two modifications now mean that when I open the valve to the down position, the compressed air is let out extremely slowly and allows the arms to drop much more realistically. I completed my model all in white, with black hopper buckets at the back, and it looks spectacular next to the Mercedes Arocs tipper truck, which I also converted to all white with black trim. I agree totally with what you say about the wonderful complexity of so many functions being operated by just one motor (disregarding the drive and steering which mine doesn't have) and I take my hat off to Ivan for an incredible design. It is by far the most complex model I have ever tackled, and I endorse entirely what you say about this NOT being a model for a beginner. Testing of functions along the way is also essential, as you do not want to be stripping it back down to that central gear box (built in stage 1) after you have finished building it! I have also converted it to run from a mobile phone USB power pack rather than the standard Lego battery box that chews up AA batteries as soon as they look at a model with this much electrical power drain. This was done by means of a special USB to Lego battery plate adapter, available from China through the popular online market place where models like this can be found. It converts the USB 5.5v output from the power pack to a rock steady and very strong 9v, that you then attach to your motor or switch as you would normally. The Mould King version obviously comes with its own rechargeable battery/receiver box, and so this wouldn't apply to your model, but for anyone who has any Lego models still running from the standard 6 x AA 9v battery box, I urge you to buy one of these adapters and use it with a rechargeable power pack - it works fantastically. Finally, I noticed one small change Mould King have made to Ivan's original design, which I will definitely be copying. On Ivan's design, the cosmetic concrete pipes were hinged where the arms hinge by means of very narrow centre pins being pushed into the + shaped hole of some curved 90* shaft connectors, as you can see have been used on each end of the very long pipe that runs from the hopper to the turntable, as well as in a few other places. As I was looking at the instructions, I knew there was no chance that these would stay in place under rotation, and sure enough they pop off the pins almost instantly. The Mould King design uses 90* right angled shaft connectors that are then attached to a shaft end with a hole, by means of a +/O split pin, and this allows for free rotation without the joints coming apart, so well done Mould King. Glad you enjoyed it as much as I did, and we can both pat ourselves on the back for completing what must be one of the most complex Technic builds of all time. All the best, Alan.
Hi thanks for messaging back its just one of 3 kits I'm looking at getting at some point as I'm awaiting on a delivery of the mould king 19008 tow truck the 1066 peace one then I think it will be the mould king 17007 11200 Crane
I purchased a MK set on Amazon. I had a question about the instructions so I emailed MK and they told me they would not help because I didn't buy the kit directly from them.
Hi Frank, I have just watched your build and review videos on this model, literally after having just completed building this from Ivan's original instructions that use only one L motor (so it doesn't drive or steer), having supplied all the parts from my own stock. I think you may be interested to read my experiences on this build...
The instructions I purchased online did not come with a parts list, and this was a huge issue for me. Despite spending days trawling through them trying to identify what extra parts I would need, it was impossible to get it all right, and in the end my assembly was halted 4 times in order for me to buy the extra pieces I discovered I was short. Each time I would go on to doing other things, and so production was sometimes suspended for months, and as a result this has taken me just more than a year to build - I am glad to have finally finished it!
The main thing I wanted to mention is that the pneumatics (BTW, the 'P' is silent in pneumatics) on my model work much more smoothly than you demonstrated, and I really am able to operate the arms up and down with a reasonably smooth and controlled action, even at full reach. I think the reason for this is two things...
1. Although you shut the control valve off to the primary lift rams when you were demonstrating it manually, I suspect that when you were filming it with the pump operating on the motor, you have left the first valve open in the 'up' position. This is not necessary as closing the valve will create a good seal and keep the air pressure in well enough to hold the arm in position. By leaving it open, you have allowed a cross feed to the next valve you operate, so that when you open the next valve, it pushes a whole load of high pressure air from the primary lift rams into the secondary lift rams. This causes the second lifting stage to fling open dramatically, and at the same time, dumps all the pressure from the primary lift circuit. Try operating it in a way where you close each valve after operating the ram, BEFORE opening the valve to the next ram - I think you will see a huge improvement.
2. There is so much weight pushing down on the primary lift arm, that it doesn't need a return feed, and this connection on the 'down' position of the valve has been left unconnected. Instead the primary lift arm is allowed to fall under gravity when the valve is moved to the 'down' position and the air is dumped from the rams, but this can be a fairly violent action, with the arms dropping instantly, and I wouldn't want to be stood underneath when it happened! I have made a small modification that has solved this perfectly. I attached a small length of hose (only about 5 cm) to the unconnected nipple on the valve. This hose I blocked off at the end, and then made a TINY pin hole in the side, which allows only a trickle of pressurised air through it. It was also necessary to swap the other two hoses around on the valve so that air flows through the valve in the opposite direction. The reason for this is complicated to explain, but these two modifications now mean that when I open the valve to the down position, the compressed air is let out extremely slowly and allows the arms to drop much more realistically.
I completed my model all in white, with black hopper buckets at the back, and it looks spectacular next to the Mercedes Arocs tipper truck, which I also converted to all white with black trim. I agree totally with what you say about the wonderful complexity of so many functions being operated by just one motor (disregarding the drive and steering which mine doesn't have) and I take my hat off to Ivan for an incredible design. It is by far the most complex model I have ever tackled, and I endorse entirely what you say about this NOT being a model for a beginner. Testing of functions along the way is also essential, as you do not want to be stripping it back down to that central gear box (built in stage 1) after you have finished building it!
I have also converted it to run from a mobile phone USB power pack rather than the standard Lego battery box that chews up AA batteries as soon as they look at a model with this much electrical power drain. This was done by means of a special USB to Lego battery plate adapter, available from China through the popular online market place where models like this can be found. It converts the USB 5.5v output from the power pack to a rock steady and very strong 9v, that you then attach to your motor or switch as you would normally. The Mould King version obviously comes with its own rechargeable battery/receiver box, and so this wouldn't apply to your model, but for anyone who has any Lego models still running from the standard 6 x AA 9v battery box, I urge you to buy one of these adapters and use it with a rechargeable power pack - it works fantastically.
Finally, I noticed one small change Mould King have made to Ivan's original design, which I will definitely be copying. On Ivan's design, the cosmetic concrete pipes were hinged where the arms hinge by means of very narrow centre pins being pushed into the + shaped hole of some curved 90* shaft connectors, as you can see have been used on each end of the very long pipe that runs from the hopper to the turntable, as well as in a few other places. As I was looking at the instructions, I knew there was no chance that these would stay in place under rotation, and sure enough they pop off the pins almost instantly. The Mould King design uses 90* right angled shaft connectors that are then attached to a shaft end with a hole, by means of a +/O split pin, and this allows for free rotation without the joints coming apart, so well done Mould King.
Glad you enjoyed it as much as I did, and we can both pat ourselves on the back for completing what must be one of the most complex Technic builds of all time. All the best, Alan.
thank you for your content.
Nearly didn't recognize you without your hat, Frank. 😁
My hatless twin Brother😜
Hi thanks for messaging back its just one of 3 kits I'm looking at getting at some point as I'm awaiting on a delivery of the mould king 19008 tow truck the 1066 peace one then I think it will be the mould king 17007 11200 Crane
I purchased a MK set on Amazon. I had a question about the instructions so I emailed MK and they told me they would not help because I didn't buy the kit directly from them.
That sucks
@@Freakmedia1972 Yes, I agree. It is a good thing there are other options to purchase next time I got a desire to play with blocks.
Hi just to ask about something please what do you think on the make UBRICKS please
Never Had a Set of them, the Liebherr Looks cool, but that is Technic beyond the Limits.😁
So is this worth 199 bucks
14s ago!!
Costdown 的下場就是這樣！ 小台、大台的水泥車都失敗！