Nice video. I can't believe Ford makes us go through all these steps just to change out the switch, lol.... Reminds me of some type of James Bond secret device, lol.
Very informative video. I was about to spend who knows how much on a mechanic but thanks to this video I was able to save a bit. Thanks for the awesome advice
@@coltinwalker6366 I haven't, BUT, The switch slides on the shaft. I grabbed it, slid it up and down fast and fairly hard and it fixed it. It's getting worse again, but I'll try it again. It starts without the clutch most of the time now, In neutral.
Thanks for the video, of course it's easy to do when it's sitting on the ground in front of you lol. Either way thanks for the knowledge. Do you recommend replacing the little plastic connector that holds it in place? How do you remove that
Would a bad switch cause the truck not to start? It turns over but won’t start. When the switch went out on my Honda Accord it wouldn’t even crank over. But my Ranger cranks, no start.
Nice video. How did you take out the two bolts at the top of the entire clutch/brake assembly bracket? They're pretty far up there and my ratchet with socket nor my drill with swivel head fit without getting hit on the backside against the big grey piece when unscrewing.
*_Attention If you are replacing cracked clutch brake pedal assembly mount_* Under the dashboard in the cab, the master cylinder requires only a quarter turn twist, with little force, such that its fixed square at the end can slide through the floor mount square hole where its seated. Just behind that mount square hole, between the mount and the fire wall, is flat but wavy ring sprung tensioner washer that helps keep that more firmly held in place. It looked is a lot harder then I thought as I wasn't familiar with these catches and twists. After that the rod from the clutch pedal comes off and can now be pulled through the fire wall. It was painstakingly awkward removing that clutch break pedal assembly mount that cracked where it held the rotational arm that both pedals are attached to. The 1/2 inch deep socket and short extension works but an impact wrench/ drill made quicker work of it. *_However, the last bolt in the upper left corner is to shallow for the socket and wrench to fit, even with a short socket_* . A box wrench didn't work because there's not enough space to turn it. A flatter ratchet box wrench,1/2 inch, may be the answer, too, but its will require many short turns and patience. A smaller socket wrench with an articulated head may do the trick. I imagine a seasoned Ford technician has a more elegant tool or approach. The pedal assembly is almost $200 from the dealer, as cheap $80 on eBay (part # 6L5Z2455BB allegedly fits 1995-2006 Ranger) and sufficiently less cost at Pick-n- Pull, if you cant await delivery bit can tolerate a 2 hour extraction mission. Unfortunately only 3 vehicles have it, the Ranger, the Explorer Sport and Explorer Sport Trac. It's truly puzzling determining if the vehicles at Pick-n-Pull will have the part. First, note set date or when they put the vehicle out. Allegedly about 10-14 days later they scrap the vehicle (P&P is a subsidiary of Schnitzel Steel) The vehicle may remain a bit longer?? but the listing is no guarantee its there and calling may or may not be fruitful in making that determination. Now the listing provides the Vin # and the best you'll get is 4 speed auto - 5 speed manual, I kid you not. The only way to devine which is by providing the last eight digits of the Vin # to the willing, generally very forthcoming, Ford parts department and they shall know if its automatic or manual. Dint be fooled by an online search of websites that suggest they can tell you; they can't. You will find that every digit tells you useful things. Oddly the 4th through 8 digit (not the last 8 digits) reveal the type of the transmission but further search was fruitless in identifying whether its manual or not!! There are two or three very good videos on how to bleed the line for the clutch line to the break Master cylinder to the reservoir by hanging it from the reservoir. The flexible rubber line is bent then flat at two places that trap air. Thus its not advised to bleed in place as the air bubbles move left to eight but not up and out the reservoir.
I got a question how the hell do you get the master cylinder push rod off the clutch pedal without breaking it I see people doing it but their videos suck and I can’t see what they are pulling up on..
If by clutch you mean clutch master cylinder, then it was pretty simple. I removed clutch switch first, then I disconnected master cylinder rod from clutch pedal, then I twisted master cylinder from engine compartment side and the whole thing comes out.
I figured out what was wrong. The clutch master was recently replaced by a "tranny shop." It appears there is no ring with the clip, on the end of the clutch master. SO, the switch has nothing to mount to. Needs a new clutch master. Can't believe the tranny shop left it that way. Probably an NHTSA safety violation.
Nice video. I can't believe Ford makes us go through all these steps just to change out the switch, lol.... Reminds me of some type of James Bond secret device, lol.
Thank you, Sir. Excellent video. I was worried about screwing up the slave cylinder prime and now I see exactly how the switch functions.
You're welcome.
Thank you! I was afraid I was going to break the switch when I tried to remove it, so I looked at your video. Now I can do it! Thumbs up!
Glad it helped you out.
Very informative video. I was about to spend who knows how much on a mechanic but thanks to this video I was able to save a bit. Thanks for the awesome advice
Glad I could help 👍
What about the first step? Removing the wire harness? Thats the part I’m having trouble with
Thanks dude appreciate that I bet there's a million people out there like to know how to do that
Since you're all going bad about now
any adjustment on those? I have to push the clutch real hard into the floor before it will spin over.
I have that same issue rn how did you fix it?
@@coltinwalker6366 I haven't, BUT, The switch slides on the shaft. I grabbed it, slid it up and down fast and fairly hard and it fixed it. It's getting worse again, but I'll try it again. It starts without the clutch most of the time now, In neutral.
Dude I owe you a beer!
This helps me so much thank you for this 😊
Really good video thanks 👍
Life saver bro. Much appreciated.
How do you take it out of the master cylinder
Thanks for the video, of course it's easy to do when it's sitting on the ground in front of you lol. Either way thanks for the knowledge. Do you recommend replacing the little plastic connector that holds it in place? How do you remove that
What’s that long white plastick piece called that connects to the pedal
Clutch master cylinder rod, most new master cylinders come with one.
Excellent video
Excellent video.😊
Super cool video thanks so much!
Thank you for the video (and the inspiration)! 🙂🌳💪
You're welcome.
How do you get the wire connector off?
Wauu very good , I subscribed to your channel 👍👍👍💯💯💯
Gracias.
Very nice vid. Thanks!
Will it start without it?
Would a bad switch cause the truck not to start? It turns over but won’t start. When the switch went out on my Honda Accord it wouldn’t even crank over. But my Ranger cranks, no start.
The switch isn't bad if the engine is cranking over.
It could be the fuel pump relay.
Nice video. How did you take out the two bolts at the top of the entire clutch/brake assembly bracket? They're pretty far up there and my ratchet with socket nor my drill with swivel head fit without getting hit on the backside against the big grey piece when unscrewing.
1/4 swivel on an extension. Now that's 95-03. 94 and older are a pita and you pretty much have to drop the steering column.
P
*_Attention If you are replacing cracked clutch brake pedal assembly mount_*
Under the dashboard in the cab,
the master cylinder requires only a quarter turn twist, with little force, such that its fixed square at the end can slide through the floor mount square hole where its seated. Just behind that mount square hole, between the mount and the fire wall, is flat but wavy ring sprung tensioner washer that helps keep that more firmly held in place.
It looked is a lot harder then I thought as I wasn't familiar with these catches and twists.
After that the rod from the clutch pedal comes off and can now be pulled through the fire wall.
It was painstakingly awkward removing that clutch break pedal assembly mount that cracked where it held the rotational arm that both pedals are attached to.
The 1/2 inch deep socket and short extension works but an impact wrench/ drill made quicker work of it.
*_However, the last bolt in the upper left corner is to shallow for the socket and wrench to fit, even with a short socket_* . A box wrench didn't work because there's not enough space to turn it. A flatter ratchet box wrench,1/2 inch, may be the answer, too, but its will require many short turns and patience.
A smaller socket wrench with an articulated head may do the trick. I imagine a seasoned Ford technician has a more elegant tool or approach.
The pedal assembly is almost $200 from the dealer, as cheap $80 on eBay (part # 6L5Z2455BB allegedly fits 1995-2006 Ranger) and sufficiently less cost at Pick-n- Pull, if you cant await delivery bit can tolerate a 2 hour extraction mission.
Unfortunately only 3 vehicles have it, the Ranger, the Explorer Sport and Explorer Sport Trac.
It's truly puzzling determining if the vehicles at Pick-n-Pull will have the part. First, note set date or when they put the vehicle out. Allegedly about 10-14 days later they scrap the vehicle (P&P is a subsidiary of Schnitzel Steel) The vehicle may remain a bit longer?? but the listing is no guarantee its there and calling may or may not be fruitful in making that determination.
Now the listing provides the Vin # and the best you'll get is 4 speed auto - 5 speed manual, I kid you not. The only way to devine which is by providing the last eight digits of the Vin # to the willing, generally very forthcoming, Ford parts department and they shall know if its automatic or manual.
Dint be fooled by an online search of websites that suggest they can tell you; they can't.
You will find that every digit tells you useful things. Oddly the 4th through 8 digit (not the last 8 digits) reveal the type of the transmission but further search was fruitless in identifying whether its manual or not!!
There are two or three very good videos on how to bleed the line for the clutch line to the break Master cylinder to the reservoir by hanging it from the reservoir. The flexible rubber line is bent then flat at two places that trap air. Thus its not advised to bleed in place as the air bubbles move left to eight but not up and out the reservoir.
How do you replace the rod? Or do I need to?
Great video, thanks!!!!
Thank you for this
You're welcome.
Thank you.
excelente😎👍!!!!! muy buen video!!!!❤️❤️
Gracias
I got a question how the hell do you get the master cylinder push rod off the clutch pedal without breaking it I see people doing it but their videos suck and I can’t see what they are pulling up on..
Did u ever find out ?
Popped mine of w/straight screwdriver.
No I found an easier way which worked fantastic. Then I sold the piece of shit lol
@@FURFEELINGS_3what way lol
@@thatssojad3n been 3 years remind me what we are talking about lol bleeding it?
Do you think this could cause the truck to throw a P0340 code after it starts?
I wouldn't think P0340 would have anything to do with clutch switch.
Great video thanks
My switch is loose and slides up and down, plus I have leaking fluid on the floor mat. Any ideas?
I could be wrong but sounds like your master is going out
I got a question. Is the clutch switch suppose to stick to the master cylinder?
It shows in the video how clutch switch gets attached to master cylinder much better than i can explain in words.
very good,,,, thanks
My back and neck thank you.
Where does the eyeball ring clip go?
It should clip on to the pedal itself(if that’s the eyeball ring clip you’re talking about)
good input but what about removing the connector on the safety switch? It great to work outside of the car, reinstalling the saftey switch is a bitch.
Could you not have removed it without pulling the clutch pedal?
I removed the clutch pedal so it'd be easier for viewers to see how to remove it.
How did you get the clutch through the fire wall?
If by clutch you mean clutch master cylinder, then it was pretty simple.
I removed clutch switch first, then I disconnected master cylinder rod from clutch pedal, then I twisted master cylinder from engine compartment side and the whole thing comes out.
I figured out what was wrong. The clutch master was recently replaced by a "tranny shop." It appears there is no ring with the clip, on the end of the clutch master. SO, the switch has nothing to mount to. Needs a new clutch master. Can't believe the tranny shop left it that way. Probably an NHTSA safety violation.
👍🗽
Correction since they're going bad about now
I feel like I got flexed on at the end there lol
You probably did 😂
I am late by 21 hours
Yes you were.
You look like you've done that to a gun before!!!
I do it once a week with my eyes closed lol.
Thank you.