I think the problems are the user's technique. This is a Dremel , not a 2.5 HP router. You should concentrate on keeping the Dremel vertical and use a feather touch on the forward motion. Use two hands, not one when, using an edge follower and make sure to keep the guide flush to the edge, On any power tool you can only advance at the rate that the material is removed or it will buck. Let the tool do the work.
02:30 that T track bit, you needed to cut z straight channel to depth to allow the t track bit to go through. The burning was the shaft having to cut/burn its way through the MDF The bits that gave rough finish while using the edge guide. The Dremel is wobbling from pushing through the cut. you need to support & push the edge guide and hold the Dremel steady.
I have the router base for my Dremel with the same bits and use it a lot on items that are too small for one of my other routers. I use a slower speed and feed and take smaller bites. They work well and have also used the same bits on my small CNC.
when using the dremel to cut a T slot, pardon my near sightedness but I did not see you cut the straight slot first. The idea for doing such is to take the tension from around the T slot cutter bit and thus you hopefully would not have so much wood burning in the process. But you could be right for do mention using a straight bit first and the problem of burning may be in the type of wood i.e. MDF to Pine.
Hello. They third bit you used Is More for making small cuts from the edge to the internal of the mdf in order to get a notch to hung a framed picture. Thats how I use this bit for. Congratulations for your helpful video
Your trying to take to much out at once, thus causing the bit to near over-load and try to wander under pressure and is dangerous as the bit could snap and fly off...take two or three routs not one deep cut, exactly the same as a real router...Ray an ex TREND routing demonstrator for 15 years UK...
This is great to know. I've tried to use a dremel as a router in the past and it didn't work... now I know why. There don't seem to be any informative videos about routing with a dremel!
Good advice. I've kind of been discovering this naturally as I've been learning and playing. I bought a bunch of bits and blades along with a press stand. Seems to be going ok if I take my time and take everything in controlled "layers".
I bought a dremel from Wal-Mart, and it came with all the attachments, like a handle, and the cutting attachment and such, for $45, I think it was. It was not a bad deal for the 5 attachments and 25 cutting/sanding bits I got.
Good rundown showing various bit designs and what they produce! Next I would vote for a demonstration on edge trimming laminate after its been applied to plywood.
Your not controlling the guide correctly, You can see a gap when you start making a cut which of course will not give you a straight line when cutting. You need to keep pressure on the guide to keep it flush against the material and definitely multiple shallower cuts will help. Its a great little tool but they have limitations..
Great video. So many professional carpenters in the comment section that just seem to ridicule your video, rather than providing videos of their own to show us how. I've been shopping around for Dremel router attachments for a project and this is very helpful. Thank you for your efforts!
Thanks very helpful - as I have old paneling that is 'out of print' so to say, and I have to install a panel piece over a doorway I am closing up- so I need to match the random grooves, but do not want to purchase a router, and this seems to be the answer, I don't want a dremmel, but it's cheaper than a router. Thanks so much. This panel will be painted, and no one will look that close (hopefully) ha!
I've bought some cheap router bits like this, then bought a set of bearings with 3mm inside diameter, and 6mm, 5mm outer diameter. This converted the ones I wanted to flush cut bearings
Looks like you were forcing the tool - which would result in rougher cuts. And as you pointed out, perhaps a softwood would have been a better test. Always use the right tool for the right job
Can you make a tutorial how to cut out pointy flames from 12mm mdf? cannot find a tutorial on how to cut out or if possible if you want to make multiple how to make a template so you cut out later by just following the template.
Agreed. Any router work done, especially like the way you are showing, is always ALWAYS done in steps. Progressively getting to the the desired depth you want. You are overloading the tool
.....well, this is where the start of my project begins after seeing this video..... I need to cut a small square channel appox. 1/8" x 1/8" deep into a 1/4" clear acrylic rectangular rod that makes a frame with rounded corners at the top and bowed sides. There is not a straight edge to work with for any kind of long straight edge guide. Not sure what tools and how to set this up........ I need to place a small string of LED lights into this channel. Pretty delicate routing I need to do, and not sure how to go about it....... Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.
Have you used two handed approach.. upper control & lower hand control.. much slower hand control push speed would make better cuts .. Trial & error , I would say !
Maybe, but I can't see that working well. There are plunge router bases for dermels and other rotarty tools that would work much better for what you want.
That "T" slot should have had the centre cut made first with a straight cuter to relieve the "T" cutter from thermal wear,and not burn the motor out,instead of one pass to make the entire cut.
Were they dremel brand bits or a cheaper alternative? You can't call them by a product name if that's not what they really are and you can't expect cheap junk to perform like quality tools and accessories.
You showed how to put on the rotary attachment (which is obviously very easy since it just screws on) but you did not show how to put bit on and adjustments??
The bits attach like all other Dremel bit, by sliding them in and tightening the collet nut. The adaptor has a thumbnail screw on it that can be adjusted up or down for height. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this useful video, I have a Dremel, but never thought of using it as a router. The T - Track bit may do better if the groove is cut first with a straight bit.
i was gonna say the same thing as vincent sanders 2, every vid i've seen, and from doing my own, the tutorials say cut t track with your straight bit first then use the t track bit, and go kinda slow, and don't even dare wobble the drive, it happened to me, i tore a big chunk from just a little budge in a small piece of mahogany , and where it didn't tear out , the track bolts wanted to catch, this happens even with my full size router
@@MakeTechCreate Do you remember what number were you using, may be? In my rotary tool comes a table with the range of rpm per number, so even the number could be useful. Thanks and thanks for the video!
You know a hand saw has many teeth on it but everyone seems to use just 3-4 inches as they saw back and forth frantically and quickly thinking they are working faster. My grandfather taught me many years ago to use the entire length of the saw slowly and let the tool " do its work" as your slave. My point is "let the tool do its work" within its ability here. You're asking too much of the tool by forcing the tool to eat more meat than it is capable thus a poor result. Slow down the load on the tool and see the difference in your end product. This tool will work fine within its capability and in capable hands.
He tratado de encontrar este accesorio en Chile hace mucho tiempo, lo he buscado en muchas tiendas, "BROCA DE CORTE 561 Y ADITAMENTO GUIA DE CORTE 565 DREMEL"
Creí que ibas a hacer un RÓTULO ,o una pequeña talla ....para utilizarlo para cortes rectos y vaciados ....pues bueno ,habrá máquinas mejores . Un saludo
Sorry but all i can see wrong in this video was user error you should be using 2 hands instead of one you should be using the guide rail properly to start with and the T track bit would have worked if it was not cutting so deep
10 years as an interior trim Carpenter, Rule #1, never ever never touch or tinker with a bit or blade after it is installed on a power tool. When routering, ALWAYS pull the router towards you. Carpenters do not push a router down the board. All carpenters HATE particle board. Real carpenters do not use glued sawdust (particle board) to do any project unless that is what they are forced to use.
Quick comment that may already been made. Yu are man handling the tool. This is a Light duty tool. Slow the hell down. They work much better than what you have shown.
Dremel's are meant for finer detailed work. YOU severely skewed your review. On most of the work you're working on its best to use a router, especially with T-Slots. Another thing is you are free handing your passes. Set up a simple guide to run your tool. I don't care for this video!
JUST SEE HOW THE DREMEL WOBBLES WHEN IT MOVES ALONG AND HOW HE PUSHES THE DREMEL INSTEAD ALLOWING THE DREMEL MOVES NATURALING AND YOU JUST GUIDING IT...THAT EXPLAIN WHY THE RESULT IS NOT BETTER
You're trying to take off far too much in one go with that tiny motor and cheap bits, the keyhole cutter is never going to work well as you can just take off a small amount first then set it deeper like you can with the others (which is what you should have been doing)
I agree with everything you’re saying except for the keyhole bit. You can use one of the straight bits to hog out all the material in the middle up to the same depth of the keyhole bit. Then use the keyhole bit to take out the bottom wider portion, it should work then. It is the same concept as taking shallower cuts out rather than trying to take the whole depth of the bit out at once.
Total user error. Too fast, too deep, one handed unstable feed. Micro router bits can't be forced any more than a standard router bit. Are you a beginner?
Check out my new video: CNC Bits For Beginners - ruclips.net/video/Od_std1q114/видео.html
I think the problems are the user's technique. This is a Dremel , not a 2.5 HP router. You should concentrate on keeping the Dremel vertical and use a feather touch on the forward motion. Use two hands, not one when, using an edge follower and make sure to keep the guide flush to the edge, On any power tool you can only advance at the rate that the material is removed or it will buck. Let the tool do the work.
and maybe start with a shallow pass and add depth each pass... the attachments do have the ability to set the depth...
Exactly my thoughts after watching the video.
True, probably not even a dremel looks a bit cheap... or maybe a very old model
@@davebenson1504 exactly, that's how you are supposed to do it
And I wonder if he has chosen a slow speed. I found that when turn the speed dial all the way up, these router bits work much better.
02:30 that T track bit, you needed to cut z straight channel to depth to allow the t track bit to go through. The burning was the shaft having to cut/burn its way through the MDF
The bits that gave rough finish while using the edge guide. The Dremel is wobbling from pushing through the cut. you need to support & push the edge guide and hold the Dremel steady.
Good comment right here. 👍 I kinda thought something was off so that's why I checked the comments.
I have the router base for my Dremel with the same bits and use it a lot on items that are too small for one of my other routers. I use a slower speed and feed and take smaller bites. They work well and have also used the same bits on my small CNC.
I never even though about using them on my CNC! I'm going to give them a try on my Shapeoko and see what happens.
Thanks for the idea!
@@MakeTechCreate Slow speed and slow feed. I use them to do delicate detail work. I use them on bandsaw boxes with the Dremel.
"This cut probably could be cleaned up by doing another pass." Why didn't you do another pass and find out?
This just popped up in my feed today-2 years later! Thanks for the information!
Start your bit shallow and then adjust for deeper cut. That’s what I have found works best with the dremel
Thanks for tip and thanks for watching.
No problem
Yep I agree. It's interesting to see what happens when you cut deep on the first pass but wouldn't recommend to do that
Do y’all think it would rout pine?
when using the dremel to cut a T slot, pardon my near sightedness but I did not see you cut the straight slot first. The idea for doing such is to take the tension from around the T slot cutter bit and thus you hopefully would not have so much wood burning in the process. But you could be right for do mention using a straight bit first and the problem of burning may be in the type of wood i.e. MDF to Pine.
Thanks for the tips!
Hello. They third bit you used Is More for making small cuts from the edge to the internal of the mdf in order to get a notch to hung a framed picture. Thats how I use this bit for. Congratulations for your helpful video
Your trying to take to much out at once, thus causing the bit to near over-load and try to wander under pressure and is dangerous as the bit could snap and fly off...take two or three routs not one deep cut, exactly the same as a real router...Ray an ex TREND routing demonstrator for 15 years UK...
Thanks for the tip Ray. I will do it in shallow stages.
This is great to know. I've tried to use a dremel as a router in the past and it didn't work... now I know why. There don't seem to be any informative videos about routing with a dremel!
Good advice. I've kind of been discovering this naturally as I've been learning and playing. I bought a bunch of bits and blades along with a press stand. Seems to be going ok if I take my time and take everything in controlled "layers".
I bought a dremel from Wal-Mart, and it came with all the attachments, like a handle, and the cutting attachment and such, for $45, I think it was. It was not a bad deal for the 5 attachments and 25 cutting/sanding bits I got.
That sounds like a good deal to me. Thanks for watching!
@@MakeTechCreate Thanks for the video!
Good rundown showing various bit designs and what they produce! Next I would vote for a demonstration on edge trimming laminate after its been applied to plywood.
Oh and use the straight bit first. Then the t bit.
Great tip! I didn't even think about doing that.
yep :)
Your not controlling the guide correctly, You can see a gap when you start making a cut which of course will not give you a straight line when cutting. You need to keep pressure on the guide to keep it flush against the material and definitely multiple shallower cuts will help. Its a great little tool but they have limitations..
You were pushing it through the wood kinda fast. You should be slower and let the speed of the Rotatory Tool to do the work. 👍🏻
Great video. So many professional carpenters in the comment section that just seem to ridicule your video, rather than providing videos of their own to show us how. I've been shopping around for Dremel router attachments for a project and this is very helpful. Thank you for your efforts!
Centros de servicio en la CDMX. Y costo de las fresas para Dremel router.
Thanks very helpful - as I have old paneling that is 'out of print' so to say, and I have to install a panel piece over a doorway I am closing up- so I need to match the random grooves, but do not want to purchase a router, and this seems to be the answer, I don't want a dremmel, but it's cheaper than a router. Thanks so much. This panel will be painted, and no one will look that close (hopefully) ha!
I've bought some cheap router bits like this, then bought a set of bearings with 3mm inside diameter, and 6mm, 5mm outer diameter. This converted the ones I wanted to flush cut bearings
Just got a new Dremel. Thanks for posting this!
No problem. Thanks for watching!
Looks like you were forcing the tool - which would result in rougher cuts.
And as you pointed out, perhaps a softwood would have been a better test.
Always use the right tool for the right job
Can you make a tutorial how to cut out pointy flames from 12mm mdf?
cannot find a tutorial on how to cut out or if possible if you want to make multiple how to make a template so you cut out later by just following the template.
Hi thank you for the demo but most important, what should be the insert point, ie, how far in should you fix your routing bit ?
Agreed. Any router work done, especially like the way you are showing, is always ALWAYS done in steps. Progressively getting to the the desired depth you want. You are overloading the tool
@@guyh.4553 tks.
.....well, this is where the start of my project begins after seeing this video.....
I need to cut a small square channel appox. 1/8" x 1/8" deep into a 1/4" clear acrylic rectangular rod that makes a frame with rounded corners at the top and bowed sides. There is not a straight edge to work with for any kind of long straight edge guide. Not sure what tools and how to set this up........ I need to place a small string of LED lights into this channel. Pretty delicate routing I need to do, and not sure how to go about it....... Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.
Have you used two handed approach.. upper control & lower hand control.. much slower hand control push speed would make better cuts ..
Trial & error , I would say !
You need to be making more than one pass mate!!!!
Cheers for the demo. The rough cuts were because you were pushing the tool a bit too fast.
Thanks for tips!
Good information; thanks for posting it.
You're welcome 😊
Hello. what speeds do you use? thanks
Depends on the bit. Start at a mid speed and adjust from there.
This makes me play around more with my rotary tool va getting a 200$ router tool. Thanks
It's worth a try!
Thank you for making the video! You have a lot of helpful information. Now to get the bits and other parts.
- The “T” trac cut should be made in at least 2 passes & a jig would make the cuts cleaner.
Thanks for the the tip and thanks for watching!
I always use a straight bit first and then the T trac bit. Makes for really nice cuts.
How would burring or carving bits do with this application?
Hi, random question. Can the cutting attachment be used as a drilling guide? Let's say if I loosen the bolt on a side? Thanks
Maybe, but I can't see that working well.
There are plunge router bases for dermels and other rotarty tools that would work much better for what you want.
Nice job, I am not an expert but making multiple passes little by little makes it easier and it is safer. Thank you for sharing👍
If you want to get good results with rotary tools like the Dremel, you have to think and work in a micronic space.
Thanks for the tip
@@MakeTechCreate Oh man, that really wasn't aimed at you so much. I hope that it didn't come off as ash whole ish.
Lol ... no problem, we're good.
Hola 👋🏻. Sabes como consigo eds base metálica???.
👋🏻 Hello. You know how I get that metal base???.
Greetings from Chile 🇨🇱
Saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱
You can find them online. Try Amazon or ebay. Thanks
@@MakeTechCreate Thank you . Greetings
What a helpful video thanks a lot! I'm wondering how would it work on pine wood? And are there dremel better quality bits do you think?
I've bought a couple of the Dermel brand router bits since and they do seem better quality.
Great job. Cost of tool kit.
I have Bosch dremel with 4mm collet.
Do the T-track with s atright cutter to depth, then the T-track for the side channels
Should have written "straight"
That "T" slot should have had the centre cut made first with a straight cuter to relieve the "T" cutter from thermal wear,and not burn the motor out,instead of one pass to make the entire cut.
Somebody already said this... lol
what kind of rotary tool are you using
Were they dremel brand bits or a cheaper alternative? You can't call them by a product name if that's not what they really are and you can't expect cheap junk to perform like quality tools and accessories.
They were the cheaper alternative. Have you tried the Dremel brand before?
hola como esta muchas bendiciones donde puedo encontrar esos accesorio
A better base might make these work.
Neat kit.
Thanks for the review.
You're welcome and thanks for the tip!
Good info thanks! Slow down a bit when cutting though. Looks like it's chewing the wood a bit.
Thanks for the video,helps me a lot.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Guter Test👍
You showed how to put on the rotary attachment (which is obviously very easy since it just screws on) but you did not show how to put bit on and adjustments??
The bits attach like all other Dremel bit, by sliding them in and tightening the collet nut. The adaptor has a thumbnail screw on it that can be adjusted up or down for height.
Thanks for watching.
Would you recommend this to use for taking off a lot of material for carving?
Search for "Dremel burr bits" and a set of those should do what you want!
Nice video, thanks
You're welcome 😊
Can I buy this
Amazing! Quick and straight to the point
Thank you!
@@MakeTechCreate you’re very welcome!
Does it work on aluminum?
Probably more to do with material being used soft wood can be tricky never mind that stuff
Can you post a link to the bits?
Great video. Thank you
You're welcome!
This demonstration tells me that the Dremel can't replace a router. It's a detailer tool and not a main tool for construction. Thanks
Which is what the guy said... lol
Thanks for this useful video, I have a Dremel, but never thought of using it as a router. The T - Track bit may do better if the groove is cut first with a straight bit.
Thanks for watching!
i was gonna say the same thing as vincent sanders 2, every vid i've seen, and from doing my own, the tutorials say cut t track with your straight bit first then use the t track bit, and go kinda slow, and don't even dare wobble the drive, it happened to me, i tore a big chunk from just a little budge in a small piece of mahogany , and where it didn't tear out , the track bolts wanted to catch, this happens even with my full size router
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
What rpm are you using with your rotary tool?
There's no rpm marker on this rotary tool, only numbers, so I have no clue.
@@MakeTechCreate Do you remember what number were you using, may be? In my rotary tool comes a table with the range of rpm per number, so even the number could be useful. Thanks and thanks for the video!
Can you do the same on real wood please in different directions of the grain?
Thanks
I'll put it on my list todo for the future!
Route with the direction of the grain when possible.
I bet if you clamped a board as a fence you would get a cleaner pass.
Possible. This was just a quick test.
Using the full size Dremel router base would probably give better results, too.
Thanks for watching!
MakeTech I’m thinking of getting the plunge router attachment since I think it will be easier to control for edges.
@@JanineMKartist Sounds like a great idea. I haven't tried it myself, but I'm thinking about buying it.
Stewmac makes a couple of Dremel bases and some bits. Check them out. I own one.
Will do ... thanks for watching!
"As you can see, I could not make a single straight line..." Maybe a CNC machine is what you need :)
Long since bought a Shapeoko 😉
You know a hand saw has many teeth on it but everyone seems to use just 3-4 inches as they saw back and forth frantically and quickly thinking they are working faster. My grandfather taught me many years ago to use the entire length of the saw slowly and let the tool " do its work" as your slave. My point is "let the tool do its work" within its ability here. You're asking too much of the tool by forcing the tool to eat more meat than it is capable thus a poor result. Slow down the load on the tool and see the difference in your end product. This tool will work fine within its capability and in capable hands.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
He tratado de encontrar este accesorio en Chile hace mucho tiempo, lo he buscado en muchas tiendas, "BROCA DE CORTE 561 Y ADITAMENTO GUIA DE CORTE 565 DREMEL"
I like your video, but I think that you need to slow down when doing those passes. Give the rotary tool a chance to work.
Great job!!! Thanks for sharing
You're Welcome!
Hola buenas noche CM están soy dela República Dominicana CM puedo hotener un dime con toda esa pueda
Creí que ibas a hacer un RÓTULO ,o una pequeña talla ....para utilizarlo para cortes rectos y vaciados ....pues bueno ,habrá máquinas mejores .
Un saludo
Wow amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
Site para poder comprar esse produto
Sorry but all i can see wrong in this video was user error you should be using 2 hands instead of one you should be using the guide rail properly to start with and the T track bit would have worked if it was not cutting so deep
The straight edge is not in contact with the MDF for the first and last inch
10 years as an interior trim Carpenter, Rule #1, never ever never touch or tinker with a bit or blade after it is installed on a power tool. When routering, ALWAYS pull the router towards you. Carpenters do not push a router down the board. All carpenters HATE particle board. Real carpenters do not use glued sawdust (particle board) to do any project
unless that is what they are forced to use.
Good job! 👍
Se pueden hacer círculos?
With this attachment: ruclips.net/video/MJXx-7jfqjk/видео.html
Todo magnifico
Canadian, eh ?
You should make your cuts from right to left. Not left to right
Muy interesante !! 👍
Thanks
Quick comment that may already been made. Yu are man handling the tool. This is a Light duty tool.
Slow the hell down. They work much better than what you have shown.
Keep the edge guide snug against the edge of the material.
Dremel's are meant for finer detailed work. YOU severely skewed your review. On most of the work you're working on its best to use a router, especially with T-Slots. Another thing is you are free handing your passes. Set up a simple guide to run your tool. I don't care for this video!
He said at the end this would not replace a router, but maybe you didn't get that far... So, I don't care for your comment.
Where are your videos? He's showing Dremel attachments, not router attachments.
a-"gain".
Pas de film en francais
TRADURRE IN ITALIANO, GRAZIE
You are moving to fast..Let the machine work..
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Even with a router, you need to step it down with a few passes.
Thanks for tip and thanks for watching!
Mine works too. I used the woodprix plans and performed it without any problems.
JUST SEE HOW THE DREMEL WOBBLES WHEN IT MOVES ALONG AND HOW HE PUSHES THE DREMEL INSTEAD ALLOWING THE DREMEL MOVES NATURALING AND YOU JUST GUIDING IT...THAT EXPLAIN WHY THE RESULT IS NOT BETTER
Thanks for the tip!
You're trying to take off far too much in one go with that tiny motor and cheap bits, the keyhole cutter is never going to work well as you can just take off a small amount first then set it deeper like you can with the others (which is what you should have been doing)
Thanks for the tip
I agree with everything you’re saying except for the keyhole bit. You can use one of the straight bits to hog out all the material in the middle up to the same depth of the keyhole bit. Then use the keyhole bit to take out the bottom wider portion, it should work then. It is the same concept as taking shallower cuts out rather than trying to take the whole depth of the bit out at once.
Take more passes and it will work better
super!
Thanks!
You need to slow down and let the bit do the work your pushing too much and thats why your cuts look bad
Total user error. Too fast, too deep, one handed unstable feed. Micro router bits can't be forced any more than a standard router bit. Are you a beginner?
Thanks for sharing, Decision: i,ll never buy one
Yes the line isn't straight and once again the bit does the job but it's not a straight edge. go figure.
No you need to step the bit each pass. You are trying to take too much in one pass bud.
Way to deep.. more passes with shallow cuts
Thanks for the tip