How to Glue Tubular Tyres Bicycle Maintenance
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- How to Glue Tubular Tyres Bicycle Maintenance
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This bicycle maintenance how to video, takes you though simple step by step guidance the process I use to Glue Tubular Tyres.
Fitting Tubular Tyres is fairly simple, however it does require a little bit of time over several days. The process requires building up layers of glue on the rim and tyre before fitting. The process takes several days due to allowing each layer of glue taking a day to dry.
Tubular Tyres are referred to as the gold standard and are used in the Pro peloton. They are lighter than clincher tyres due to not requiring an inner tube and are preferred by many cyclist.
I hope this video helps you in your bike maintenance, if you have any hints or tips to help others then please share and leave a comment.
This Bicycle Maintenance How to video takes you though step by step the process I use to Glue Tubular Tyres.
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Very good video. Now do one on gluing cyclocross tubs!
Never done one 🤔 maybe worth a restoration 🚴♂️ thanks for watching
Nicely explained. Love the video.
Thanks for your support 👍
Great video!! Thanks!!!
Thanks for watching and the support Andy
Well done
Hope it was helpful 👍🚴
Hi andy I had these tyres in the 1980s but didn't have the glue but being a teenager and knew it all gave it a go with out. All was going OK until I was about 5 miles from home banked it around a bend it came off and folded the front wheel in half. Took it to bike shop to be mended and he laughed at me but said he. would try and he straighted it. Think he saw a challenge lol. Never used them since. A teenager in the 80s without glue lol
Nice little story put a smile on my face, hope you was ok though. Thanks for sharing your memories, support and watching all the very best Andy
I just found a half round file that helps removing decade old glue on used rims I bought. Nice video, sure beats using a small tube of cement.
Thanks for watching and the support, I had a load to do and what better to to Crack-On and get them done. Yes the glue definitely beats the glue although it does take longer. The file sounds handy. All the best Andy
I recommend Vittoria Mastik One glue its one of the strongest and the type of glue actually makes a difference in rolling resistance and durability / safety, and this glue is rated very highly in tests. It's also very affordable in the 250g tin ($20).
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching
You do not need to wait 24h for the glue to cure between layers. Have done this as the continental guide say´s with 24h between layers but there is no difference if you apply them sooner, the glue dries quick (1h). Just leave them overnight after gluing and they work fine. I have used masking tape on rim and on the sidewalls of the tubular to not get glue on them, the braking surface can be cleaned but if you get glue on the sidewall's (espesially tanwall) they're impossible to clean from glue residue +dirt&dust really sticks to the glue. Great video, Thank You.
Great idea to use the masking tape to protect the tire sidewalls a sidewall with glue is a sign of the most poorly glued-up tires!
I so want to try tubs.... Your video has made up my mind if I do though... Rim tape for sure😁
😂yes the glueing is very time consuming and also messy. Thanks for watching
Well done I have been doing it wrong for decades.
I hope the video is helpful, thanks for watching Andy
I am johns mate well done for 20k love the builds
Hi and thanks for watching and your support no doubt I will see you around 👍
modern tubular tape is every bit as good as glue this brand is the best you can buy effetto carogna it is just as secure and as strong as glue. but without the mess and takes about 15 mins to do each wheel. give it a try you will be surprised
Thanks for the comment support and advice, that well be a future video. all the best Andy
Ive always wanted to learn how. this video is so in depth ,have a campagnolo front wheel id like to try it on,but wouldnt the tubular tire be better as an ''schrader valve'' since those can be done up with ''liquid tire puncher sealent '" ?think that'll make having tubeless wheels abit more worthy?maybe,anyways always amazing videos,🌊
Thanks for your comment and support. Food for thought it seems tubeless are becoming the thing with sealant nowadays 👍
A traditional process of gluing (track/road) that still reigns supreme and is much faster, easier and locks the tire into the rim. Here goes.........
First, always dry run mount the tire (sans ANY glue) onto the rim, new rim or used to assess its soundness...... Process.... Fill tire with 5/6 lbs of air, place on rim without any "stretching". Once on, align laterally, fill to roughly 20lbs/1bar and visually inspect both laterally and longitudinally for any anomaly. If so, return tire for exchange. NEVER glue because once you do, YOU OWN THE TIRE! So, the tire in its dry run is good. Set aside.
If new rim, apply two separate base coats and let each dry at least 24 hours. A third application is not a bad idea.........
*Today's glue is crap compared to what was heretofore available. Most of you will sadly never know what was Clement "Red". I'd give a year off my life to have it back. That stuff was magic. To say it held is a gross understatement.
The glue today evaporates in the blink of an eye and requires a much greater amount applied as a result.It's holding strength is not to that of the past but when done via the technique I describe Will prove as I said the easiest, quickest and most secure.
With the rim prepared via new application of glue as described above OR an existing used rim that you've pulled a used or flat tire off........
With a used rim, typically place in truing stand (or back into dropouts if no truing stand and with a DULL and I mean DULL knife or scraper) spin wheel and at the edge of the rim scrape off edge "crust" of hardened glue. You'll not need to do this with a first time rim.
Here goes.......
Working in a HIGHLY VENTILATED area - outdoors or in an OPEN garage/room with a CLEAN HARD/NON POROUS FLOOR is essential........, substantially wet a cloth towel - NEVER paper towel with lacquer thinner and lightly moisten the entire rim with the lacquer thinner. By the way, lacquer thinner is NOT denatured alcohol or mineral spirits. Let the rim rest for about five minutes.
Doing this slightly softens the base hardened glue for the new pre-mounting phase application of glue. Have your pre-tested tire ready to be mounted with 5/6 lbs of air. With moistened hard glue now rested for five minutes, apply your new glue to the rim - I use tubes of same, but that's me. Given how thin and evaporative today's glue is, apply a most liberal - really generous amount to the prepared rim. (As a source of reference, I find that essentially one tube of glue per rim, four times what used to be back in the day............) Set rim aside vertically. Now, quickly take the tire and with a new application of lacquer thinner upon the cloth towel, moisten the base tape over its entire surface by quickly holding the towel in one hand and running the base surface of the tire over the towel held in hand, stem to stem and back again. Make certain the base tape is moistened but NOT wet, This process "opens" the base tape as it were to receive the wet'ish glue. Now............. IMMEDIATELY place the inflated to 5/6 lbs prepared tire on the rim and mount. Fill to around 20 lbs/1bar a quickly align as before. Make certain that all alignment is perfect. You should witness light amounts of excess glue seeping out at the edge of the rim on both sides, between the rim and aligned tire. You WANT this to happen. Seriously. It's an indication that a full/needful distribution of glue has worked its way across the entire inner surface of the rim between the rim and tire. Now....... Take the cloth towel with more lacquer thinner and easily clean up/wipe away any excess glue. Wait ten minutes.............. Once done, inflate to approximately 50 lbs/3bars and let fully rest for the typical 24 hour plus gestation period. Initially - at the 50 lb/3bar fill, a bit more glue might appear. Simply wipe away.
What is/has taken place/what's going on.......? With this method the opened base tape via the lacquer thinner has absorbed the wet glue which has more easily penetrated the base glue of the rim. In effect, "they ARE one" : tire, rim, glue. This method has been for decades the preferred method in track/road method where, especially in track massive high longitudinal and lateral loads are the norm, not that road does not also realize same. I equally witnessed it in road application. When done right your tire is really bonded and I mean BONDED. Do NOT skimp on the glue, especially today's glues.
I have little time for tape. I do not remotely consider same. Avoid it like the NWO, face masks and "vaccines". It appears much easier, quicker, cleaner. But it's a joke. There has been a whole new age - au current/nouveau, let's spit in the face of tradition and reinvent the wheel (no pun intended) push over the past twenty years on the part of beyond myopic new age cyclists who frankly do not now Richard. Can you say dick....? Most bike shops have no idea about sew ups (tubulars), they can't even mount same. Most "bikes" today are total pop out sh&t, ALL made in China with Chinese mfgrd. "gruppo. They all come prefabricated. Today, it's open the box, pull out the pop plastic pos prefab'd "bike", turn the bars 90 degrees, tighten, put on some pedals, make some quick checks and voila........... Done. And they call that a "bicycle".......... Only over the past year or so are you finally seeing a recognition toward sew ups that for well into two decades have been subject to obstinate ignorance, near fully dismissed out of hand as being "inferior" by all the righteous nouveau types, when just the opposite was true. Clearly, the tail has been wagging the dog.
A few tips. Tighter IS better. As in not just THAT, but a tight fitting - harder to mount sew up (tubular) to the rim. NEVER pre-stretch a tire. Major No No. As described, always test the tire via a quick dry test mount. The tire will tell you its degree of difficulty in upcoming final mounting. The technique must be one of precise execution.........Clean, hard, no rug floor............ 5/6 lbs inflated (NEVER uninflated) tire......... Everything prepped........... Stem fully centered through hole, firm grip on tire with both hands (I NEVER need gloves and do NOT recommend same), press super hard downward - wrapping tire AROUND and down using all your upper body/chest and arms, pushing tire with constant FULL force downward and NOT letting the pressure in hand ever drop, at bottom, pull wheel up off floor that has been used as a brace to this point with your arms and legs while still applying - maintaining downward force into your body and with thumbs push last remaining amount of tire OVER and on to the rim. It IS just that "easy". All of ten seconds. Some tires are a snap, others a definite workout. With glue you really just get one shot. No screw ups or back tracking......... So, that dry run is essential for both inspection and to tell you the degree of difficulty in final mounting.
I've mounted dozens upon dozens upon dozens of times and once you learn, you have it. It IS a technique. It is this gluing technique that simply makes for an ultimate stronger bonding "lock". That's all. With this method I've never witnessed a roll when done properly. Whereas I've seen just the opposite with dry - to - dry mounting.
I will refrain from mentioning any tire brands in spite of my preference toward one primary brand over decades. Today's sew ups monumentally and most thankfully ARE more reliable against flats to those of 20, 30, 40, 50 years ago and the old ones were such beaut's with their no longer available SILK thread casing, save for today's Dugast, but were, alas, prone to flats. To ride on del Mondos mounted to grey SSC's or Nemesis rims is something few if any of you will ever know. Unreal........... Oh, and confirmed with Clement "Red"............... With Clement "Red" you need a jackhammer and thumb insurance to get the tires off..........THAT WAS GLUE!!!
As to glue......... It's either Continental or Vittoria and frankly, they're essentially equal. Just use a liberal amount. Less is NOT more!
As a matter of fact, I have NOT had a flat in over twenty years thanks to the newer protective designs whereas I used to routinely have perhaps 8 - 12 road flats per year and on road training rides always left the palazzo with TWO spares. Yes, two. Just in case......... Those days are gone. Lucky are we today on at least some things.
For those of you who dare to go against the status quo grain and ride a classic steel bike............... First, thank you. What few remaining competent steel builders remain, you speak to their heart, too. From there........ BUILD FROM STRENGTH, above all your wheels. Anything less or other than what is still available such as thankfully still Ambrosio Nemesis or Synthesis rims in a 32X3x - 14/15 build with BRASS nipples is simply short changing yourself. Do NOT focus on the loser's game of "weight". Weight weenies are just that.
Wow well thanks for your knowledge, you could do with doing a video and sharing with many your expertise 👍 Thanks for taking the time out to comment and share with us. All the best
That was worth the read. Thanks.
@@BikeItUK he sounds like a Swiss-French : so many Galicismus and Schwitzer words .!!!
Hey Andy nice video! How do you clean dry glue on rim braking surface?
Any thinner I've used petrol on a rag before now it can be stubborn. Hope this helps good luck
ahhh memories
all that work and then get a flat in the first race after!
😂 brilliant thanks for watching and the support all the best Andy
Tub glue for slack fitters like the trainers tubs like wolber's or vittoria's . Things like Barums that would only pull on 3 quarters the rim before a big fight. . Well that was tub tape .. :).
Thanks for the advice! Good man hope you are staying safe thanks for the input and support all the best Andy
I love your videos Andy, they're an inspiration. I hate to be the one correcting you however I do need to point out that you need to wait at least 15 minutes for the glue to dry before mounting the tire onto the rim. Contact glues do not work wet on wet, the glue has to be dry on both surfaces. Also, no need to clean the rim of the old glue (I clean mines as well, just an OCD thing). Keep up the good work, your enthusiasm is the embodiment of cycling!
Thanks for watching and also your support. Your advice is valuable and hopefully for more viewers to read. Hope your staying safe all the best Andy
I think he already has 4 layers of glue on the rim + tire, I think its okay to mount it right away after adding a 5th layer of glue, the glue will just slightly dissolve the existing glues but it would make the tire more likely to settle in evenly on the rim which is a good thing?
Actually, wet application is the best. There exists a technique (traditional track) I'll attempt to convey. See above........
An old standard: Look across your wheel from the valve. There´s a space between two spokes there. Do not put any glue in that space, nor on the corresponding place on your tub. Mark down both areas with a marking pen before you start gluing. When you need to wring the tub off your rim, that´s the place to start. Yours borano20
Thank you plenty of great advice coming through! Good point, thanks for watching and the support Andy
Why? Wouldn't that off-balance the wheel further?
@@cccpkingu a bridge has two fixing points. is the part in the middle off-balanced?
Thank you very much for this instructional video. Some twenty Years ago I messed around with glue and these tyres. Once I even tried to chanche the ( Whats it called in english?) Schlauch. But my sewing skills were not god enough. Lukyly I had a flat tyre before there was a dangerous Situation. And then there was always the Problem: If you had a puncture on your ride, you could not glue your spare tyre on to the wheel. You had to to cycle on raw egs. Sorry again for my grammatic, but I hope I can be understud. Lg Peter
Thank you for your support and watching and also sharing your personal experience of using tubular tyres. I got the gist of it. All the best and thanks again
Remember it well, Clement crits for road race wheels, Strada 66for TT, wolber 333 for training 🙈
Thanks for sharing the memories and watching, all the best Andy
Quick question. How do you take them off and can you reuse the bike rim?
Thanks for watching, you can just gently prise them off then they just pull off. Yes you can reuse the bike rim just needs cleaning and preparing again. Thanks for watching all the best Andy
Recognise those wipes 😜. If you get a puncture whilst you are out, are you snookered unless you the team car is near by? 🚒
Thanks for the comment, old school riders used to carry a spare strapped to seat posts. They are fantastic to ride on but as you mentioned no so good repairing whilst your out. Thanks Andy
Tubs do ride lovely but a lot of modern tyres are nearly as good these days eg tubeless conti gp5000.
Thanks again, yes I ride gp5000 on my Canyon, I love them. However these rims were off the Olmo and thought while I was replacing the tubs anyway I might as well do a short video on them. 👍 Thanks again Andy
@@BikeItUK it looks like you're addressing every stranger online as Andy. A slash sign goes a long way
an old water bottle will make gluing both the rim and tub much faster. Put a small bead on the rim/tub all the way round and spread with brush. Do not put more in the bottle than you think you need for rim/tub at the time.
Thanks for watching and the advice, this is all good stuff. All the best and thanks for your support Andy
Hey Andy ,, where’s our Olmo restoration ,, I’m running out of stuff to watch mate
Thanks for the comment, I have my alarm set everything is ready to go on the bench. I’m building it up first thing. 👍🚲
Sounds similar to why VHS beat Betamax
😂yes true, they were the days. Thanks for watching and the support all the best Andy
....but tubes became bloody expensive and very hard to find those rims : (
Yes they did, I personally ride clinchers but the tubs do offer a fantastic ride. Thanks for watching all the best
I find that Panaracer Practice Tubs work great and you can often find them for $30. The more expensive tires aren't all that much better!
@@dgillies5420 pleaseee tell whereeeee
Ohh, it is more tedious than I expected, it takes a lot of time
Thanks for watching, the cement takes a lot less time. Only one application, I should do a video demonstrating the use of that.
:)
Thanls for watching
Can you comment my movie?
Thanks for your comment. What movie?
"... before we're able to ride"
...and then you take off those gloves you put on 5 days ago!
Keep the gloves on these days....thanks for watching stay safe all the best Andy