He is lucky to have you in his corner because you know where to stretch a buck and when it’s time to spend the money or get ready to face the consequences. Thanks for taking us along. Tom
the fight gets tiresome. arguing to justify what needs done and explaining the consequences of what not doing it means. i dont have to convince myself when i building my own trucks.
Great video J.C.Smith the Peterbilt is back for another round of repairs or replacement. Looking forward to your next video stay safe Mr & Mrs J.C.Smith.
Love seeing your years of experience picking what needs to be fixed (spend $$) and what can be nursed along or welded or whatever!! I think you are right about put 2 new frame rails in and swap trucks! But I know people watch the pennies and lose dollars often!
he still has those tendencies. he wants me to put the bearings back in it as they are. nope. not going to happen. he can tow it out of here if he starts that crap again.
I'm going to check rods and mains on my N14 over the winter, my hope is similar to this engine to catch wear before it damages a expensive crank. Can said 750k so I don't really know how much they have on it
I once had a Ford Escort (really was a Mazda 323 in most ways) that spit its Ford emblem off in the driveway one day. It just rejected being a Ford from that point forward. It ran for many more years. 😆
Given the monumental oil leaks on that truck, those bearings actually look pretty good. You should pat your buddy on the back for at least keeping oil in it. 😆
most wear indicators like that mean in frame or complete tear down most of the time In my career I've done 40 motors and half were just none service because they thought they would save money good video J.C. very educational have a great thanksgiving Chris > from Cashmere Wa.
I explain in the next video how common it is for guys to just roll in new bearings and never do the heads, pistons, liners or rings. the original plan was pull this engine do a complete out of frame.
I always hate getting into swapping this for that with old junk for old junk, but probably serves best to swap the other big cam into this truck with light work to it on the way and then take this engine/ trans and build it in the shop for the other truck he has with the Detroit that needs replaced. I’d bet you get into this one and it would be cheaper to find another remanned/ better taken care of longblock to start.
Yesterday had a customer bring in a Ford ranger for rear axle seal leak. Pulled drum and found brand new seal. Checked the vent and found it completely plugged. Nipple hose goes on rusted shut. Blew the hose out and it was completely blocked. Could have replaced the seal 10 times and it would still have leaked. It's always best to find the cause not treat the effect.
Just wanted to say thank you for all your an your wife do this channel is amazing it has helped me out alot I have a question I have a 2001 freightliner Columbia Detroit series 60 12.7 my voilts jump up an down from 13.6 down to 13.0 new batteries just been replaced last year could you tell me how to check my batteries an alternator with a muiltmater thanks again sorry for the long message
first thin i would check is every connection on the alternator, starter and batteries. you may have a loose or bad connection allowing the alternator to charge but break connection when a load is applied. you can do a voltage drop test with a multimeter at each connection but cleaning and re-tightening usually reveals bad connections faster.
I am curious as to what you do for a living?? Can’t just be making videos for us to enjoy, looks like you mechanic or are an operator/hauler, or kinda a jack of all trucks/trades. You have a great deal of knowledge and I always learn something.
i say i build trucks and sell them but i have not built a truck in over a year. been trying to finish up some of my own projects and ones i agreed to fix for friends to help them out.
@@j.c.smithprojects I understand that, we’ve been trying to fix up our personal work truck for a year but other stuff seems to pop up first or someone needs a piece of equipment to run their ranch repaired and our stuff gets put on back burner. Glad you can put up videos of what you work on though, the Pete is quite full of content.
Before I even watched the complete video, I simply can't resist to comment: You think that "Little Pitty" is a good name for this truck? I say it's definitely more like "Big Pitty". Or even more realistic: "Pandora's box"! 😁 ;-) At least this was my first thought as you had to dig deeper into that hub seal problem. 😱🙈 Now back to the vid.
i can honestly say i have spent more time on his antique road show this year than i have on all of the hundreds of trucks i bought fixed and sold in the last 4 years. you cant buy worn out junk and not plan to spend a pile of money to ressurect them.....you either pay to buy a better truck or pay to build a nicer truck.
@@j.c.smithprojects 👍👌👏 Exactly! Of course I totally agree. I can't imagine how much it kinda hurts respectively bothers you to work on this "antique road show". At least for me it's often almost painful to watch, especially when your voice drops. As a long time subscriber I automatically know: Oh oh, nothing good is coming and J.C. does not like what he just found! 🙈😁 I hope that the big cam engine swap will go smoothly. 2) Thanks for replying and especially for giving a heart to my comment. As you know, I always and totally appreciate both very much. As always: Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards, luck and especially health to all 3 of you.
I was thinking the name was more like "Little Pity" was ever given to the poor thing. Just worked until it wouldn't move anymore and then done again... and again.
@@j.c.smithprojects Unfortunately 10 percent of us have to remind ourselves constantly, that 90 percent of mankind are "not intelligent"! And that's what already my great great grandmother told my favourite grandma. Knowing this fact can help us ten % not to overstress the neck muscles/spine so much (because of all the head shaking). 😁 ;-) 2) A lot of drivers let rest their left feet on the clutch pedal and therefore destroy at least the release bearing. Some let the clutch slip often to gain rpms respectively power (mostly when overloaded and/or in a hurry). And of course every time they drive backwards! 😱🙈 It's the same all over the world. But of course you know all that. Resume: Please give your neck muscles/spine a rest! 😁 😘
I have never worked on air brakes and most likely never will. But i really don't have a good understanding of how they work and i hear about park brake on air brake if you do some brake work in the future would you take the time to explain how the whole air brake works. i think i understand how caging the brakes work but thats about all i think i understand. and the park brake i don't understand. i do know that when you apply brakes it is done by lowering air pressure to them but don't really understand what applies the brake i assume it is something in the canister that you cage the brakes with thanks
Inside the canister that he's "caging" is a BIG spring (the act of caging is what releases that spring pressure). That big spring is what applies the brakes. The air works against the springs to release them. Air brakes work exactly like juice brakes, but backward. In juice brakes we apply fluid to apply the brakes and a spring returns everything so the brakes release. On air brakes, springs apply all of the force and air is what keeps them from working. That's when you hear a big truck set the parking brake, or just come to a stop, they're just dumping all of the air. So, they're locking the brakes up by way of not having any pressure fighting against the springs. It's like a juice car where there is a separate parking brake mechanism that works on springs and cables. Air brakes just apply the service brakes to "park". So... If there is no air, the brakes are on. It's the exact oppsite of juice/wet brakes you may be familiar with from automotive.
@@DependableAutoTruck Well, he kind of has it right. He described the "Parking brake" circuit pretty well. They are fail safe apply, meaning you apply air pressure in the parking chamber against the spring to release the brakes, release the air pressure whether intentionally to park, or a system failure will apply them. The service (main) brakes are like hydraulic brakes. The more pressure on the chamber the more braking force. The brake pedal is basically a pressure regulator. the farther down you push the higher the pressure, release the pedal, the pressure drops..
there are 2 separate systems. "service brake" is what you use when you push on your brake pedal (also called foot valve). "spring brake" is what you use when parking the vehicle or if there is an loss of air supply in the air tanks. a very simplified explanation is this: spring brakes are in the rear section of the brake chamber. the large internal spring pulls on a rod that engages the brake shoes against the drum. the brakes are engaged until the spring is compressed by applying air pressure to a chamber with a flexible diaphragm. when the chamber reaches 60psi, the spring begins to compress and release the parking brakes. the brakes are no able to be used as service brakes. service brakes use the foot valve to apply air pressure to the front part of the brake chamber. this moves the same (but separated) rod that the spring break uses. spring brake pulled it back creating space between the shoes and the drum. the service brake moves the same rod forward to close the gap between shoes and drum. the foot valve increases pressure as you push harder on the pedal. you let off the pedal and it exhausts the pressure from the service brake chamber and releases the brakes. the spring brakes also have a fail safe built into the system. if the air pressure in the "primary" air tank (this is the tank that supplies air pressure to your rear brakes) falls to about 45 psi, the air pressure being applied to the spring brakes will be removed causing the spring brakes to apply. this is intended to slow the vehicle or bring it to a stop in the event of failure. keep in mind that spring brakes are only on drive axles not on steer axles. many times only one drive axle of a tandem will have 30/30 chambers. that means a 30 square inch air chamber for the service brakes and a 30 square in air chamber for the the spring brakes. others can have just service brakes which is a single 30 chamber. so you are now trying to stop something that had 6 brake chambers applying brakes with now only 2 or 4 chambers. so it isnt something to rely on. good drivers are always scanning gauges to know whats happening with their truck. we are not including any trailer to this just for simplicity.
i understand what you said about him being new to the heavy truck world, but jeeze does it hurt to grab the power washer/steam genie at the end of the week and give it a blast off? between knocking off the dirt, oil and spent grease, it just makes it easier to spot potential issues, and leaks... and for the love of god, please convince him to replace the headlights with normal peterbilt headlights, my ocd cant handle the plow lights on a truck that doesnt plow... also, i think him and his helper(s) sounds like need an education on clutch usage, and maybe even a different transmission more suited for the heavy weight? while still giving it abit more top end speed? (13, 15, 18speed?)
gotta remember, the older generation used these 9 spds to run 80,000lbs down the road all day and got 4-5 years out of a clutch. it isnt the trans or the rear end. it is lack of knowledge, want and desire to be a good driver who takes care of his equipment.
@@j.c.smithprojects very true, I was just thinking of the is it easier to make it dummy proof or try to teach someone how to shift and use a clutch properly.
Well, as the old saying goes: You pay peanuts, you get monkeys. Motivating people is not easy for some but being motivated it not easy for others as well. We get a bonus each year, but make lots of mistakes, come in late often, do bad work, all eats away from that extra money.
Forgive me for my ignorance J.C., But how could the crankshaft be in such great shape, but the main bearings and rod bearings be worn out so bad they need to be replaced? Also just out of curiosity was there any sign of metal flake in the oil? Great video, I’m not surprised one bit that your frame splice has held up so well👍
the bearings are the sacrificial softer material between the rods to crank and block to crank. by design they are going to wear long before the crank does. not much metal in the pan or the oil. the metal has probably been drained out with oil changes over the years.
Another thing to mention is that this is a mechanical engine. There will be always a bit more fuel dilution in the engine oil. Rolling new bearings in is part of the maintenance on those engines. If you do oil sampling on your engine oil you will see the lead go up and when the copper gets elevated you know it’s time to do bearings. J.C. Explained the other part well. Hope that helps and makes sense.
this truck idles as much as it drives. the bearings wont go any real big miles. idling is the worst for these engines. i may bump the idle up a 100 or so rpms just to combat that. i rarely do oil sampling. mostly because i dont put enough miles on my trucks to warrant an oil change. i do it so i have good clean oil that isnt broke down from age.
I wouldn't call this old truck blues when u buy something that rough u have to go through it end to end and spend a ton of money and he doesn't help himself by never touching a grease gun either
![ROSÉ(로제) - APT. (Band VER.) (With. 이영지) [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IW8qaemx74g/mqdefault.jpg)
He is lucky to have you in his corner because you know where to stretch a buck and when it’s time to spend the money or get ready to face the consequences. Thanks for taking us along. Tom
No truer word has been spoken 👏
the fight gets tiresome. arguing to justify what needs done and explaining the consequences of what not doing it means. i dont have to convince myself when i building my own trucks.
@@antoncrewe4378 a turd is a turd Boston wise guy !😵😵😵😵🇱🇷🇮🇪🦉
Great video J.C.Smith the Peterbilt is back for another round of repairs or replacement. Looking forward to your next video stay safe Mr & Mrs J.C.Smith.
I know a dozen people who’d love to have someone like you in their corner. I’m one.
hello j.c &? mrs . smith & it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks j.c & mrs. smith friends randy
Mr JC Looks like Little Pitty has alot of things to fix. Thanks for sharing and stay safe
as always.....
That's why I like watching your channel cuz you do things right all the time I love watching yours
Great work J.C. !!! (as always)
Great team work very Methodical .
Love seeing your years of experience picking what needs to be fixed (spend $$) and what can be nursed along or welded or whatever!! I think you are right about put 2 new frame rails in and swap trucks! But I know people watch the pennies and lose dollars often!
he still has those tendencies. he wants me to put the bearings back in it as they are. nope. not going to happen. he can tow it out of here if he starts that crap again.
Amen to that brother if you can save $$ ok but if need spend do it wisely because it will cost you more $$ to half ass it down the road
The gift that keeps on giving
I'm going to check rods and mains on my N14 over the winter, my hope is similar to this engine to catch wear before it damages a expensive crank. Can said 750k so I don't really know how much they have on it
I am beginning to think the only thing that doesn't need to be replaced are the emblems
im not even sure about that, i was thinking the oil cap, take it off an replace everything else, lol
👍👌👏🙈😁
@@braaapattack2937
👍👌👏😁
I once had a Ford Escort (really was a Mazda 323 in most ways) that spit its Ford emblem off in the driveway one day. It just rejected being a Ford from that point forward. It ran for many more years. 😆
lol@@TheBrokenLife
My driveline guy says a balanced drive shaft is a cheap drive shaft, and I believe him after he's worked and built drive lines for me
Given the monumental oil leaks on that truck, those bearings actually look pretty good. You should pat your buddy on the back for at least keeping oil in it. 😆
or....were the bearings good before it started leaking?
Sounds like the pre trip and post trip were swept under the rug 😮
most wear indicators like that mean in frame or complete tear down most of the time In my career I've done 40 motors and half were just none service because they thought they would save money good video J.C. very educational have a great thanksgiving Chris > from Cashmere Wa.
I explain in the next video how common it is for guys to just roll in new bearings and never do the heads, pistons, liners or rings. the original plan was pull this engine do a complete out of frame.
A little wear on the bearings.And yes he got some thinking to do.Good luck on that one.
Ho JC thank you for sharing 😊
In your area, that’s not an oil leak, that’s a rust inhibitor! Good job as always. Have a happy Thanksgiving!
THANK YOU GOOD JOB!! COOL!!
I always hate getting into swapping this for that with old junk for old junk, but probably serves best to swap the other big cam into this truck with light work to it on the way and then take this engine/ trans and build it in the shop for the other truck he has with the Detroit that needs replaced. I’d bet you get into this one and it would be cheaper to find another remanned/ better taken care of longblock to start.
The truck with the Detroit belongs to another person
im just sick of all of it. im tire of the cheap ways. ready to kick it to the curb.
Yesterday had a customer bring in a Ford ranger for rear axle seal leak. Pulled drum and found brand new seal. Checked the vent and found it completely plugged. Nipple hose goes on rusted shut. Blew the hose out and it was completely blocked. Could have replaced the seal 10 times and it would still have leaked. It's always best to find the cause not treat the effect.
I guess it would be the same scenario if ya replaced the clutch on that truck. Idiot behind the wheel would smoke it again.
Hopefully he will agree to swap engines JC like you said and you won’t have to get an oil pan.
Just wanted to say thank you for all your an your wife do this channel is amazing it has helped me out alot I have a question I have a 2001 freightliner Columbia Detroit series 60 12.7 my voilts jump up an down from 13.6 down to 13.0 new batteries just been replaced last year could you tell me how to check my batteries an alternator with a muiltmater thanks again sorry for the long message
first thin i would check is every connection on the alternator, starter and batteries. you may have a loose or bad connection allowing the alternator to charge but break connection when a load is applied. you can do a voltage drop test with a multimeter at each connection but cleaning and re-tightening usually reveals bad connections faster.
With that much oil on the pan I was wondering how it could rust but you explained it.
one word.......dorman.
@@j.c.smithprojects Ahh, the wallet with wings.
At least you will never get bored with those trucks around.
Are those water trucks? I have been trying to figure out their purpose.
i was never bored before these trucks.....i could gladly do without them.
Amazon has the snap rings ... my only bitch about milwaukee!
I am curious as to what you do for a living?? Can’t just be making videos for us to enjoy, looks like you mechanic or are an operator/hauler, or kinda a jack of all trucks/trades. You have a great deal of knowledge and I always learn something.
i say i build trucks and sell them but i have not built a truck in over a year. been trying to finish up some of my own projects and ones i agreed to fix for friends to help them out.
@@j.c.smithprojects I understand that, we’ve been trying to fix up our personal work truck for a year but other stuff seems to pop up first or someone needs a piece of equipment to run their ranch repaired and our stuff gets put on back burner. Glad you can put up videos of what you work on though, the Pete is quite full of content.
4:37 head shake.
Hey J.c have you found a s10 yet in Florida right now might be bringing two vehicles up north
no i have not but i had to stall my search until i get some things taken care of.
Wish he would swap the hoods around to get rid those bug eye lights on the other pete....
Before I even watched the complete video, I simply can't resist to comment: You think that "Little Pitty" is a good name for this truck? I say it's definitely more like "Big Pitty". Or even more realistic: "Pandora's box"! 😁 ;-) At least this was my first thought as you had to dig deeper into that hub seal problem. 😱🙈 Now back to the vid.
i can honestly say i have spent more time on his antique road show this year than i have on all of the hundreds of trucks i bought fixed and sold in the last 4 years. you cant buy worn out junk and not plan to spend a pile of money to ressurect them.....you either pay to buy a better truck or pay to build a nicer truck.
@@j.c.smithprojects
👍👌👏 Exactly! Of course I totally agree. I can't imagine how much it kinda hurts respectively bothers you to work on this "antique road show". At least for me it's often almost painful to watch, especially when your voice drops. As a long time subscriber I automatically know: Oh oh, nothing good is coming and J.C. does not like what he just found! 🙈😁 I hope that the big cam engine swap will go smoothly.
2) Thanks for replying and especially for giving a heart to my comment. As you know, I always and totally appreciate both very much.
As always: Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards, luck and especially health to all 3 of you.
I was thinking the name was more like "Little Pity" was ever given to the poor thing. Just worked until it wouldn't move anymore and then done again... and again.
what is the most aggravating is seeing all your work destroyed by incompetance or laziness.
@@j.c.smithprojects
Unfortunately 10 percent of us have to remind ourselves constantly, that 90 percent of mankind are "not intelligent"! And that's what already my great great grandmother told my favourite grandma. Knowing this fact can help us ten % not to overstress the neck muscles/spine so much (because of all the head shaking). 😁 ;-) 2) A lot of drivers let rest their left feet on the clutch pedal and therefore destroy at least the release bearing. Some let the clutch slip often to gain rpms respectively power (mostly when overloaded and/or in a hurry). And of course every time they drive backwards! 😱🙈 It's the same all over the world. But of course you know all that.
Resume: Please give your neck muscles/spine a rest! 😁 😘
I have never worked on air brakes and most likely never will. But i really don't have a good understanding of how they work and i hear about park brake on air brake if you do some brake work in the future would you take the time to explain how the whole air brake works. i think i understand how caging the brakes work but thats about all i think i understand. and the park brake i don't understand. i do know that when you apply brakes it is done by lowering air pressure to them but don't really understand what applies the brake i assume it is something in the canister that you cage the brakes with thanks
Inside the canister that he's "caging" is a BIG spring (the act of caging is what releases that spring pressure). That big spring is what applies the brakes. The air works against the springs to release them. Air brakes work exactly like juice brakes, but backward. In juice brakes we apply fluid to apply the brakes and a spring returns everything so the brakes release. On air brakes, springs apply all of the force and air is what keeps them from working. That's when you hear a big truck set the parking brake, or just come to a stop, they're just dumping all of the air. So, they're locking the brakes up by way of not having any pressure fighting against the springs. It's like a juice car where there is a separate parking brake mechanism that works on springs and cables. Air brakes just apply the service brakes to "park".
So... If there is no air, the brakes are on. It's the exact oppsite of juice/wet brakes you may be familiar with from automotive.
i kinda thought that was the way it worked but wasn't sure makes sense thanks for explaining@@TheBrokenLife
@@DependableAutoTruck Glad I could help. 👍
@@DependableAutoTruck Well, he kind of has it right. He described the "Parking brake" circuit pretty well. They are fail safe apply, meaning you apply air pressure in the parking chamber against the spring to release the brakes, release the air pressure whether intentionally to park, or a system failure will apply them. The service (main) brakes are like hydraulic brakes. The more pressure on the chamber the more braking force. The brake pedal is basically a pressure regulator. the farther down you push the higher the pressure, release the pedal, the pressure drops..
there are 2 separate systems. "service brake" is what you use when you push on your brake pedal (also called foot valve). "spring brake" is what you use when parking the vehicle or if there is an loss of air supply in the air tanks. a very simplified explanation is this:
spring brakes are in the rear section of the brake chamber. the large internal spring pulls on a rod that engages the brake shoes against the drum. the brakes are engaged until the spring is compressed by applying air pressure to a chamber with a flexible diaphragm. when the chamber reaches 60psi, the spring begins to compress and release the parking brakes. the brakes are no able to be used as service brakes.
service brakes use the foot valve to apply air pressure to the front part of the brake chamber. this moves the same (but separated) rod that the spring break uses. spring brake pulled it back creating space between the shoes and the drum. the service brake moves the same rod forward to close the gap between shoes and drum. the foot valve increases pressure as you push harder on the pedal. you let off the pedal and it exhausts the pressure from the service brake chamber and releases the brakes.
the spring brakes also have a fail safe built into the system. if the air pressure in the "primary" air tank (this is the tank that supplies air pressure to your rear brakes) falls to about 45 psi, the air pressure being applied to the spring brakes will be removed causing the spring brakes to apply. this is intended to slow the vehicle or bring it to a stop in the event of failure. keep in mind that spring brakes are only on drive axles not on steer axles. many times only one drive axle of a tandem will have 30/30 chambers. that means a 30 square inch air chamber for the service brakes and a 30 square in air chamber for the the spring brakes. others can have just service brakes which is a single 30 chamber. so you are now trying to stop something that had 6 brake chambers applying brakes with now only 2 or 4 chambers. so it isnt something to rely on. good drivers are always scanning gauges to know whats happening with their truck. we are not including any trailer to this just for simplicity.
i understand what you said about him being new to the heavy truck world, but jeeze does it hurt to grab the power washer/steam genie at the end of the week and give it a blast off? between knocking off the dirt, oil and spent grease, it just makes it easier to spot potential issues, and leaks... and for the love of god, please convince him to replace the headlights with normal peterbilt headlights, my ocd cant handle the plow lights on a truck that doesnt plow...
also, i think him and his helper(s) sounds like need an education on clutch usage, and maybe even a different transmission more suited for the heavy weight? while still giving it abit more top end speed? (13, 15, 18speed?)
neither the owner or his driver needs to go any faster in these trucks. slower is better.
@@j.c.smithprojects maybe a dump truck 8LL trans? Something to help save the clutch from the abuse
gotta remember, the older generation used these 9 spds to run 80,000lbs down the road all day and got 4-5 years out of a clutch. it isnt the trans or the rear end. it is lack of knowledge, want and desire to be a good driver who takes care of his equipment.
@@j.c.smithprojects very true, I was just thinking of the is it easier to make it dummy proof or try to teach someone how to shift and use a clutch properly.
i will guarantee no matter what transmission i would put in this truck, this clutch issue would be the same thing over and over.
I know it’s cosmetic but I hate the headlights
i agree. i hate the hood and the fact it doesnt have a grill surround. he loves both.....sicko!
Will you do any oil sampling on that truck ??
no. the decision was made to keep this engine.
Well, as the old saying goes: You pay peanuts, you get monkeys.
Motivating people is not easy for some but being motivated it not easy for others as well.
We get a bonus each year, but make lots of mistakes, come in late often, do bad work, all eats away from that extra money.
Forgive me for my ignorance J.C., But how could the crankshaft be in such great shape, but the main bearings and rod bearings be worn out so bad they need to be replaced? Also just out of curiosity was there any sign of metal flake in the oil?
Great video, I’m not surprised one bit that your frame splice has held up so well👍
the bearings are the sacrificial softer material between the rods to crank and block to crank. by design they are going to wear long before the crank does. not much metal in the pan or the oil. the metal has probably been drained out with oil changes over the years.
Another thing to mention is that this is a mechanical engine. There will be always a bit more fuel dilution in the engine oil. Rolling new bearings in is part of the maintenance on those engines.
If you do oil sampling on your engine oil you will see the lead go up and when the copper gets elevated you know it’s time to do bearings.
J.C. Explained the other part well. Hope that helps and makes sense.
@@j.c.smithprojects thanks J.C. that makes sense. Ya learn something new everyday👍
this truck idles as much as it drives. the bearings wont go any real big miles. idling is the worst for these engines. i may bump the idle up a 100 or so rpms just to combat that. i rarely do oil sampling. mostly because i dont put enough miles on my trucks to warrant an oil change. i do it so i have good clean oil that isnt broke down from age.
I wouldn't call this old truck blues when u buy something that rough u have to go through it end to end and spend a ton of money and he doesn't help himself by never touching a grease gun either
pay up front or pay along the way.....doesnt matter when but its going to happen either way.
Driver must be a school bus driver. Too lazy to start out in lower gears
...or he just likes to tap his foot along with his favorite songs 🎻🎙🚚 while he's just a winding and grinding that clutch back into stardust.
Old truck blues is better than the def blues
Hopefully he just goes for the engine swap idea J.C 🔧🔩