Thank you for sharing this. I've got a 12hp Tecumseh engine that I'm transplanting onto a Deere D100 that has the fuel tank under the seat. Using this same logic I should be able to retrofit the old fuel pump system onto the Tecumseh using the dipstick tube and valve cover like this.
When I added an impulse fuel pump to my Kohler CV16S I also tapped into the oil fill tube except I made the connection with a TUBELESS TIRE VALVE. I bore a 15/32" hole approximately 1-1/8" below the top surface of the fill tube. I also thinned the width of the inside grommet. Besides being readily available and inexpensive, the threaded valve stem fits nicely inside the fuel line so no additional couplings are needed.
Thanks for this idea. Doing this with a Briggs that was originally gravity fed and didn't want to drill a hole in the valve cover. This will work perfect.
Very nice repower there! The Kohler Commands are excellent engines. Most likely that Deere had a Briggs Intek that is a bad engine anyway; even if it did not self destruct. So now this tractor is better than factory new, enjoy!
Nice, I like it. I tried to get vacuum from the valve cover and it worked but, I mow on a hill/sloped yard and it didnt work all that well. I swithed it back to the original setup.
Do you have a video of the wiring. Just had my 17.0 Briggs go to shit but have a spare Kohler 15.5 that I’m throwing in. Got all figured out but want to make sure I wire it right.
I've seen some D140s having problems with the transaxle losing torque. How's that one holding up? Is there a way to measure how much torque a transaxle puts out to see if it's working properly?
I have a video on fixing the JD transaxle. Best thing to do is dump the oil and with synthetic in the transaxle. Clean grass off top of trans so it stays cool.
How did you decide to put the vacuum tube into the dipstick tube vs the valve cover? I have a Briggs 17.5 hp that didn’t come with a fuel pump, but would like to add one
Just to let you know the black wire that needed to be hooked up was your ground That's why nothing would work until that was hooked up. In the first thing I would do would that is the take off the carburetor fuel bowl which is very easy by unscrewing the solenoid on the bottom of it just remember to unplug the wires going to the solenoid. Is what they call an anti-back-fire device and they cause more problems and you can imagine but most people do and it only take you a few minutes is to take the solenoid off and grind the tip down. Eliminating that device from closing off the jet in your color it'll work 100% better and if you look around RUclips you'll see tons of videos on. The way you have your fuel setup on that John Deere is pretty much how it comes from the factory. The thing on the side of the mower with several lines is your vacuum fuel pump those go all the time. Easily get one of those electric fuel pumps for less than $15 on eBay and they work great and never had a problem with them but tons of problems with what you have on there now in fact I just replaced one. And if you ever do install to fuel pump make sure you put it as close as you can to the gas tank to avoid vapor lock. And make sure you connect power to the pump off the key side of the switch to get power that way the pump is only on when it is running I've seen other people put switches in and shut them off manually but why they would do that I had no idea looks like you did it a lot of work and did a great job and you got a great mower for your investment and you're right that's how you learn jump right in I also just put a 22 horsepower diesel engine on one and you can get them cheaper than you can get a replacement Kohler or Briggs & Stratton for. Bolting right up. And very easy to wire try one of those on your next project everybody will be very envious of you having one of those who have Diesel engine. It may be rated the same horsepower however diesel engines cookies a lot more torque and now that mower is unstoppable
@@clydepurk7162 yes, I did this on a Briggs Intek 17.5 with no oil filter and works perfectly. If it has a valve cover you can drill a hole in it up top corner and use it has the vaccuum for the fuel pump or drill a hole in plastic for the dipstick either way the pressure is there
Does anyone know why there's no pulse coming from the valve cover on these Kohler Commands? I tried to get pulse from the already existing valve cover hole, but it didn't provide pulse. BTW, great idea getting the pulse from the oil fill tube!
You have the twin cylinder? If so there's no porting for pressure to the valve covers instead there is a breather assembly in between the 2 cylinders. You have to remove the carb and intake manifold to get access to it. Old manuals like for the old brigg flat heads (L heads) show different potential locations for pulse lines. He did a good job but definitely an old school idea. If you can't get a pulse from the cover either do like he did here or tap one to the intake manifold. Or if your feeling fancy do electric.
My mower has the gravity feed tank but the carb runs out of gas in a slope so how to make a fuel pump work has been a problem for me. Thanks for this video Im gonna try it.
Nice fix. Definitely will work on a pressurized engine but on a non pressurized engine it will suck oil into carb. I have a video on a engine someone tried that on but it wasn't pressurized. Yes 5his is how we learn trial and error
I call bullshit on that. On a Briggs and Stratton 11hp splasher flathead I drilled a hole on the governor side of the engine up high and threaded in a hose barb and its been that way for 6 years now and doesn't pull oil into the carburetor.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
amzn.to/32tXWFE Briggs fuel pump.
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amzn.to/2N6ePQn 1/4 hose barb
amzn.to/32tmQFd Electric fuel pump for tractor.
amzn.to/2nYGp9z Kohler Fuel pump kit
amzn.to/2Mt2OFy Briggs Dipstick for fuel pump
amzn.to/35MQRBZ Onan Fuel pump kit
amzn.to/31uwV3k Kawasaki fuel pump
Thank you for sharing this. I've got a 12hp Tecumseh engine that I'm transplanting onto a Deere D100 that has the fuel tank under the seat. Using this same logic I should be able to retrofit the old fuel pump system onto the Tecumseh using the dipstick tube and valve cover like this.
When I added an impulse fuel pump to my Kohler CV16S I also tapped into the oil fill tube except I made the connection with a TUBELESS TIRE VALVE. I bore a 15/32" hole approximately 1-1/8" below the top surface of the fill tube. I also thinned the width of the inside grommet. Besides being readily available and inexpensive, the threaded valve stem fits nicely inside the fuel line so no additional couplings are needed.
Is this doable on an engine without a fuel pump/filter?
@@clydepurk7162 Yes, the engine I had didn't have a pump originally, so this is what I did to obtain a working impulse line.
I was concerned that the line would catch some splashing oil. No problem there?
@@clydepurk7162 It's near the top of the fill tube. There's no splashing there.
Good ol American ingenuity. Nice work!
Thanks for this idea. Doing this with a Briggs that was originally gravity fed and didn't want to drill a hole in the valve cover. This will work perfect.
This will come in handy when I find a tractor to put a Command 16.5 I got for free. Thanks for the vacuum hose link!
Very nice repower there! The Kohler Commands are excellent engines. Most likely that Deere had a Briggs Intek that is a bad engine anyway; even if it did not self destruct. So now this tractor is better than factory new, enjoy!
That’s a sweet conversion.
Thanks I concur.
excellent idea! thank you very much
Simple, intelligent solution. My favorite type!
Good trick Bob. Sounds good and strong. Have a great weekend!!!
nice job. not easy to switch brands and get everything to work with crankshafts and all.
Yes, I accounted for the crankshaft size and the wiring , but not the fuel pump situation. I always learn a thing or two on these jobs.
Great job Bob
Thanks
Nice job! Thanks
Nice job,Bob.
Nice job I just switched out a Briggs & Stratton to a Kohler Command 25 horse
The command is a really a nice engine you are going to like it.
Now that's thinking on your feet, nice job.
what size hole did you drill into the dipstick tube?
I got similar recently for free from a neighbor who had issue with starting it. I replaced ignition coil and it runs well with no issue since on
Nothing quite like a free tractor.
Great work Bob👍
Thanks, Nice to hear from you Alan.
Did you move the voltage regulator to another location?
Thanks for the tip ,may do that someday. Looks like it works well and keeping the price low when selling a box store tractors
Yes the vacuum seal is tight and not leaking. Easy to do, cheaper than the Kohler OEM fuel pump.
Nice, I like it. I tried to get vacuum from the valve cover and it worked but, I mow on a hill/sloped yard and it didnt work all that well. I swithed it back to the original setup.
Great job 👍
Do you have a video of the wiring. Just had my 17.0 Briggs go to shit but have a spare Kohler 15.5 that I’m throwing in. Got all figured out but want to make sure I wire it right.
$250+ is better than the price of a new one, good job sir. Be aafe. Peace.
I've seen some D140s having problems with the transaxle losing torque. How's that one holding up? Is there a way to measure how much torque a transaxle puts out to see if it's working properly?
I have a video on fixing the JD transaxle. Best thing to do is dump the oil and with synthetic in the transaxle. Clean grass off top of trans so it stays cool.
How did you decide to put the vacuum tube into the dipstick tube vs the valve cover? I have a Briggs 17.5 hp that didn’t come with a fuel pump, but would like to add one
Just to let you know the black wire that needed to be hooked up was your ground That's why nothing would work until that was hooked up. In the first thing I would do would that is the take off the carburetor fuel bowl which is very easy by unscrewing the solenoid on the bottom of it just remember to unplug the wires going to the solenoid. Is what they call an anti-back-fire device and they cause more problems and you can imagine but most people do and it only take you a few minutes is to take the solenoid off and grind the tip down. Eliminating that device from closing off the jet in your color it'll work 100% better and if you look around RUclips you'll see tons of videos on. The way you have your fuel setup on that John Deere is pretty much how it comes from the factory. The thing on the side of the mower with several lines is your vacuum fuel pump those go all the time. Easily get one of those electric fuel pumps for less than $15 on eBay and they work great and never had a problem with them but tons of problems with what you have on there now in fact I just replaced one. And if you ever do install to fuel pump make sure you put it as close as you can to the gas tank to avoid vapor lock. And make sure you connect power to the pump off the key side of the switch to get power that way the pump is only on when it is running I've seen other people put switches in and shut them off manually but why they would do that I had no idea looks like you did it a lot of work and did a great job and you got a great mower for your investment and you're right that's how you learn jump right in I also just put a 22 horsepower diesel engine on one and you can get them cheaper than you can get a replacement Kohler or Briggs & Stratton for. Bolting right up. And very easy to wire try one of those on your next project everybody will be very envious of you having one of those who have Diesel engine. It may be rated the same horsepower however diesel engines cookies a lot more torque and now that mower is unstoppable
Great job. Have you seen some of the Kohler's with the flywheel magnets coming loose? I have seen a few. Thanks for the video.
I have seen them on youtube, but have never had one myself as of yet.
Would this system work on a engine with no oil filter?
Jimmy, did you ever find the answer to your question? I'm wondering, too.
@@clydepurk7162 yes, I did this on a Briggs Intek 17.5 with no oil filter and works perfectly. If it has a valve cover you can drill a hole in it up top corner and use it has the vaccuum for the fuel pump or drill a hole in plastic for the dipstick either way the pressure is there
Another one lives.
Does anyone know why there's no pulse coming from the valve cover on these Kohler Commands? I tried to get pulse from the already existing valve cover hole, but it didn't provide pulse. BTW, great idea getting the pulse from the oil fill tube!
You have the twin cylinder? If so there's no porting for pressure to the valve covers instead there is a breather assembly in between the 2 cylinders. You have to remove the carb and intake manifold to get access to it.
Old manuals like for the old brigg flat heads (L heads) show different potential locations for pulse lines. He did a good job but definitely an old school idea. If you can't get a pulse from the cover either do like he did here or tap one to the intake manifold. Or if your feeling fancy do electric.
My mower has the gravity feed tank but the carb runs out of gas in a slope so how to make a fuel pump work has been a problem for me. Thanks for this video Im gonna try it.
Nice fix. Definitely will work on a pressurized engine but on a non pressurized engine it will suck oil into carb. I have a video on a engine someone tried that on but it wasn't pressurized. Yes 5his is how we learn trial and error
I call bullshit on that. On a Briggs and Stratton 11hp splasher flathead I drilled a hole on the governor side of the engine up high and threaded in a hose barb and its been that way for 6 years now and doesn't pull oil into the carburetor.
Where's the voltage regulator?
Engine isn't powerful enough to run this size deck
Skip the lengthy story
Omfg. 4 minutes in and he is still talking...
12 bucks on ebay