Quick Change Mill Tooling Upgrade For The Mill (Mark 2)
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- Quick Change Mill Tooling Mark 1 : • Quick Change Mill Tool...
G'day everyone,
I recently made a video where I made some quick change mill tooling for the mini mill. The old system of swapping out tooling using a simple ER 32 collet chuck was time consuming and cumbersome.
The new quick change mill tooling worked by using individual holders which held a ER 20 collet which hold the cutting tool. The holders would be able to be quickly indexed into the mill using a morse taper collet.
In the last video I used the lathe to create the individual tool holders, however I ran into issues regarding run out, due to the limitations of the lathe.
In this video I will replace the home made tool holders with import tool holders which I bought for an affordable price. I hope you enjoy the video.
Cheers
#machining #DIY #millingmachine
Mill: Sieg x2.7l
Lathe: Sieg c3 7x14 Mini Metal Lathe
Timestamps
0:00 - Recap From The Previous Video
0:40 - Issues I Ran Into
1:38 - New Tooling Approach
2:51 - Modifying The Tool Holder
4:33 - Modifying The Tool Holders Montage
5:37 - Assembling The Tool holder & 3/4" Holders
6:31 - Testing The Tooling
Funky Boxstep
Kevin MacLeod
• Funky Boxstep 
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I was expecting an excruciatingly long (albeit sped up) hacksawing of those shanks, and was _so_ surprised when the angle grinder came out instead. 😄
cheers. I was about to, but I really didn't want to scratch those nicely ground surfaces by mistake. Regular scheduled hacksawing will resume.
Haha.. me too
Great idea. This is perfect size and cost for hobby shop. Now it is time for making of the power drawbar (hand powered).
I've been following along for a while now and I've gotta say the presentation has come a long way. Beautiful video work, mate
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for sharing!
Awesome, I did something similar for my lathe tailstock. ER16 "motor shaft" collet holders with 10mm steel bar cut to length for the shaft. Makes it quick and easy to change between my usual drill bits in the tailstock!!
putting a draw bar in your tailstock does sound especially useful o.O
@@kefler187 I use them in a Jacobs chuck
Nice work! They came out great for that price.
great job ! Love it
I might copy that one day
Nice system and video.
real nice idea , I will fallow your lead an make some , please keep the videos' coming ,thank you ..
Your .01mm is impressive. That equates to .00039 inches. You can't ask for better than that on a small mill.
Cheers, that's about 4 tenths or about. Im very happy with it
I like the way you presented your vedio thank you
Nice cup of tea
Ooooh fancy montage editing
Good work, getting pretty flash with the multi screen video too.
Nice!!!
Making your own tooling is always fun. Imo more fun than the projects you use them for sometimes.
Absolutely, I have had a lot of fun doing it, and it comes out to be much cheaper too.
Appreciate the homage to Project Binky!
As Richard Brunning would say, time to get the funk out. Cheers
Pretty impressive
Thankyou
this is how it is done, much better
Wow $12 each... can't argue with that! 🙂
Great update video. Are these runouts with the same collets you had concerns with previously?
I have a tipp for you wrap wire around your threats when u want to clamp on it
Nice value for $12. I gave up on it and ended up just making or buying MT3 taper ER holders. I have a dud set of MT3 spring collets, gave up trying to get a good one.
I considered that too, just I found this to be quicker and cheaper, although I'm sure it's a little less rigid . Cheers
I went with a MT3 to Tormach TTS adapter to ER20 collet set for my mini mill.
I did the same except from R8 to TTS.
Can you provide a link to seller store? I'm having a hard time finding import tooling w/decent runout.
Which nuts are the silver ones?
What's the Z- offset variation or error that you get with each tool change?
i had bought the ones that look similar that you pointed out, they were terrible. like 2 thou runout.
just out of curiosity who is the higher quality collet? shars?
ive been looking at hardinge. pricey but perfect, that said. again pricey lol.
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Have you tried using roughing cutters in your machine? If so does it significantly increase the depth of cut you can make?
I have some on they way, although I have not used them on this mill before
I would like to know if the z (tool length) is repeatable when you take the holder off and back on. I'm thinking I could use this on my Cnc for faster manual tool changes..
Thanks!
I know this is a year out, but the Tormach TTS holders repeat very well. Even on my knock offs and cheap mill, tools repeat within a couple thou.
Nice. The cuts in steel you show are using a vanilla HSS endmill? Looks pretty decent to me!
Yes, these are inexpensive import ones. They do a half decent job, although they don't last too long in ferrous metal.
@@artisanmakes Cool thanks. Interested to hear how you get on with carbide when you get them! 👍
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im sure these tool holders will be well worth the small investment they where, also if its any intrest to you i have some large hss bridge reamers 1" and larger, there not of much use to me but a good sorce of large hss, i could send one to you if you would like and was that a bit of bad obsession motorsport montage with the tea ?
Inwas looking at the same solution for myself, shame they dont sell them as 50mm long shafts.
That would be perfect wouldn’t it be. Oh well 20 seconds with an angle grinder is enough to correct it
Nice vid mate, have you seen Siegs new SX3.5ZDP HiTorque Mill?
I am aware of them though I don't think they were for sale when I bought this mill. Looking at them, I am sure they are a solid machine, but for the price I'd rather go with a used machine or a Taiwanese made one. Cheers
@@artisanmakes yeah, my thoughts as well. Not sure of their market at that price
Whoah....cue the 70's porno music...LOL
Very cool lathe work..love watching your video's
Keep em coming!!!!
Time for a pneumatic drawbar build.
a power draw bar or something of the like is on the table. The effect of having a quill does complicate it a little bit more than i'd like. Most examples I've seen are with mills that do not have one. I have a few ideas and I'll hopefully be trying them out soon. Cheers
banggood stuff is good
One nice thing with those 3/4 er collets is, that you can get that flat surface in them to fit against your spindle nose. Gives a lot of rigidity. I use them my self, and it was not so hard to find 3/4 morse taper collet with metric threads.
Well whatever works for you. And not bad of you can acquire those collets, they aren't available where I live. Cheers
@@artisanmakes i found one from ebay, the seller was in UK if i remember right...
@@TSyrjalaknives I'm not surprised you found tools mixing imperial and metric from a UK source!
Why do not use ER20 with MT3 taper?
MT 3 taper tooling is not exactly quick to change. Morse tapers are self locking and to remove it you have to hit the drawbar with a hammer. His idea is much better, quick, easy and keeps tool height consistent.
@@jakubkopec9313 One of my mills, converted to CNC, have MT3 in spindle, and it has left handed tread on the top of the spindle. There is the cap with hole on top, and when I need to extract the tool from the spindle, I just use two wrenches, one for cap and other for drawbar, no hammering. Other milling machine with MT4, which I sold year ago, has the exact same system. And third machine, which I use as manual machine now, have ISO 40 spindle, the whole defferent story.
I agree with you about the tool height consistency, but I think that hammerless extraction system can be another project for Artisan Makes.
@@RZ296 I can assure you that a power draw bar or something of the like is on the table. The effect of having a quill does complicate it a little bit more than i'd like. Most examples I've seen are with mills that do not have one. I have a few ideas and I'll hopefully be trying them out soon. Cheers
Is a quick release draw bar next?
Thought you may like this version
ruclips.net/video/w0d-ogmOIeU/видео.html
Cheers Jeff
Why not just get a TTS holder kit?
It's already a similar set up, but this is a lot cheaper
Didn't you mean Mark 3 in the title? MT2 has a max holding diameter of 12mm.
No it’s mark 2 as in the second iteration of this. I had an earlier attempt that wasn’t as successful
45-50 is not hardened to barely hardened. they lied.
usd12 per piece... yeah... it is twice as much now. Senseless:/
5mm cuts lmao... bro ... not even the big tamahawk reactor cnc's do them types of cuts... if its designed for 50mm they probably will cut 5mm per pass... not 50.... cause tool bits are expensive especially after u run a piece and then u need another tool....
The haas machines we used to run would like a word. All depends on the type of job
2:57 CHEATER!!! You should have used a hacksaw as expected. Immediately unsubscribed 😅
Haha cheers. I was about to, but I really didn't want to scratch those nicely ground surfaces by mistake. Regular scheduled hacksawing will resume.
@@artisanmakes glad you decided to come back to your mind and give us what we need 😄😉
Thx for the great content and greetings from Berlin!
It is really bad ran out
10 microns is fine for cheap collets on a hobby machine. We aren't running DMG machines here. If that's not good enough for you then you don't have to use this method
@@artisanmakes you were offended because I pointed out that it wasn't as good as you thought. for hobby applications this is unacceptable. especially since it's very easy to improve quality.
I don’t know where you get this offended idea. It’s just difference of opinion, mine being based on running hobby and commercial machines
@@artisanmakes from damaged tools not only in woodworking, and opinion of many professionalist in cnc work in all materials, now you know 👍, I am against people who propagate false knowledge, in name of sub... Likes... And views... Or stupidity.
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