Slice Engineering - Mosquito Hotend Repair - Chris's Basement
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- Опубликовано: 21 янв 2020
- In this one, we save a Slice Engineering Mosquito hotend.
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You are SO good at doing this type of videos! I almost want to buy a mosquito now and break it so I can use your instructions to fix it!
Thanks a lot Mike!
Very nice Chris, I have not needed to disassemble my Mosquito yet but it’s nice to have a video to show you how to do it have a great day
Thanks David, as always!
Thank you for the blowtorch idea. I used a candle lighter flame to clean out a stubborn clog in heatbreak i got on a voron. awesome video of awesome engineering!
Awesome, Thanks!
Nice video. You are the reason I ended up getting a Mosquito Magnum!
Thanks Daivd! Sweet!
Knowing how to do repairs is always worth the time.
Thanks for watching!
thanks for making this video, as it helped me out today. one thing i recommend while putting the hotend back together is stick a piece of filament through the hotend piping without the nozzle attached the copper part threaded in. and then carefully reattach the black anodized part with the 4 pipes carefully to the heat break with the filament going through.
I say all this because i attached the part with the mosiquito logo to the rest of the assembly and that little pipe that joins the two parts can easily be pent, and will not allow filament to pass through. see around 6:00 in the video.
Great tip Chris, thanks!
A GOOD VIDEO ! I WAS INTERESTED IN HOW THOSE CAME APART.
Thanks Jimmy!
Great video Chris. This will get someone out of a bad situation for sure.
Thanks Spike!
As always great job Chris
Thanks Larry!
Am I the only idiot that thinks thermal conductive paste shouldn't be used on the heat block end of a heat break? I'd expect to want to keep that interface as high a delta-T as possible to help out the cooling fan. Feel free to educate me if I'm not thinking about this the right way.
I thought exactly the same.
I would disagree as you want the filament to melt as quickly as possible to get to higher printing speeds. Therefore you want the threaded copper part of the heartbreak as well as the nozzle to have good thermal contact to the heatblock for it to start heating up/melt in that section. The thin tube part of the heatbreak schould take care of creating the heat gradient from the heatblock to the cold end to make sure the filament melts right where it is supposed to. With V6 Style hotends this doesn't make as much sense as the hotend is made entirely from stainless steel which has a low thermal conductivity anyway so it won't help much heating the filament at the lower threaded section.
A good discussion either way, maybe we can get Slice to weigh in on it.
thats right, "pre heating" the filament in the tube as other comment suggests is bad news. especially lower end filaments get softer/squishier. I've heard its maybe more useful as an anti-seize to keep the break from getting stuck on, but I still would never put high end TIM there.
You want it to conduct there as it allows for betting melting. That's why they make them out of copper on the better heat breaks.
Nicely done! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks man!
So Dan told me I was the only case of a Heatbreak collapsing like that! lol. But that happened to me too. My heatbreak cracked at the Copper; between the fins and the copper nut piece. I suspected that a jam occurred in the top and maybe tweaked it? With a Bondtech jams just get pushed thru. On a mosquito the delicate steel tubes can bend and collapse resulting in a crack at the bottom. Either way great video.
Thanks Stephen, yeah, I think this was a Bondtech extruder. That's probably exactly what happened.
Great vid Chris, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
thanks for this video🤙
Thanks for watching!
When someone is stuck home because of a v*rus, it is time to order online and fix the Mosquito
I hope to help in whatever way I can. :)
A lovely " Mosquito bite ".
Indeed!
Oh Man, just how hot did you torch that thing? wonder if that much heat can change the materials characteristics? guess it really doesn't matter as the Heatbreak is the main thing and replacing it. Nice vid as always!
220, 221, whatever it takes. :) Probably some for sure, we will see. Thanks man.
Any recommendation for fixing/upgrading a Prusa mk3s hotend? I am having trouble with my hotend ooze out the filament and junk up the end, leading to failed prints. I am about over the e3d hotend and changing nozzles
That's strange, I have never really had one ooze like that. I would think that would be caused by the nozzle.
Surely you want as little heat transfer as possible between the heater block & heat break. ( @ 4:55) Added to which thermal compound isnt a good idea at 200 + degree C
I will let Slice weigh in on that.
This is high heat thermal compound made for this, and you do want high transfer there as it's part of the melt zone and not at the break point yet.
Interesting that they recommend to use Red Loctite on the screws - it breaks down around 500F / 260C, I thought. Seems like loctite 2422 (blue ultra-high-temp) or Rocksett might work better.
Thanks!
I don't think you want good thermal conductivity between the heater block and the heatbreak. Do you?
I just do what the guys at slice tell me. lol
How did the original owner manage to get it like that. Is there a design flaw?
I am not really sure how all that went down.
Our Mosquito's down here don't look like that ... can you use it around a bug light? ;)
LOL, bug light shouldn't be a worry with this one.
Mosquito magnum or mosquito "standard" ??
What should you chose?
It just depends on how much filament you need to kick out. The faster or larger layers you print with, the higher the flow of you hotend.
There's a chemical called Dichloromethane or methylene chloride, it's easy enough to pick up online. It will completely dissolve PLA and ABS. I use it for cleaning nozzles and will get rid of everything without leaving a trace.
It's nasty stuff but if you dont get it on your skin then you'll be fine.
Thanks, I have never heard of that.
I always wonder how on earth you are supposed to dispose of chemicals like that... You normally can't dump them down the drain and you sure don't want to dump it out on your garden. (Maybe your nosy neighbor's garden?)
@@BobSmith42 Here twice a year we have contaminated waste disposal. We take a lot of stuff there and let the city handle it. It is always a challenge.
Dichlo is actually what is used to deccafeinate coffee. You won't have to worry about disposing it as it's a brilliant glue for PLA (the best in fact) if you have a container full of dichloromethane and you leave the lid off it will evaporate within a couple of days .
Chris 2020
LOL
Instead of torching, could you just have heated it up via the heater cartridge?
...or a paint-stripping hot air gun. The torch risks changing the temper of the copper.
Torch is not always a great idea, there was a lot of plastic up on the heatsink and I wasn't really sure I would be able to save it at all, so I went all in.
Boron Nitrite does not take much heat for it to crystallize and turn into a crumbly, broken apart solid (visible under a low power microscope). I would use liquid metal thermal compound for this application myself as it has a much higher heat resistance factor and when reaching the high heats it retains its liquid state and is much better at heat transfer.
I am not really sure on the science of the whole thing, I just do what Slice tells me to. ;)
What liquid metal did you use, most seem to have a max rating of 200c. Thanks
Yup fastest way to clean a nozzle / hot end is using a blowtorch.
That's how I like to do it! :)
Hello Chris can I have your email as want to ask what printer I should get up to £1000 I want to print metal wood and pla or abs.
Im a quick learner tha ks to your video's.
Sure, send me an email brotherchris81@gmail.com
5:00 - you suppose to want less thermal conductivity there, not more.
I'm just doing what Slice tells me to do. ;)
The replacement parts cost more than my entire hotend^^
To buy them all individually, I would guess yes.
@@ChrisRiley That's not what I meant. I replaced my hotend of my Ender 3 for 8-9€. On my second Ender I even just went with "What is the cheapest thing I can order from China? Oh 2,73€? Wth, I have to try it!" The Mosquito heatbreak costs 34,99$. For the price of my cheap hotend I wouldn't even have gotten the screws^^ It is like a totally different world. When the Mosquito breaks: "Oh no, now I have to get replacement parts!" When the cheap hotend breaks: "How did this even work so well until now?! Ah well, guess I get a new one... or two" The Mosquito is most likely far better in nearly every regard, but fitting it to an Ender 3, that I bought as "broken" for 70€ would just be ridiculous :D
@@SchwachsinnProduzent I get ya, I totally understand what you mean.
Pretty crappy move by Mosquito having such non standard hardware fixings.
Copper head should be different.
Haha mine is damaged the same way
Really? That makes 3 people I have seen this happen.
i just got new Mellow (clone). Heat block wasn't tightened at all. probably it gets loose during time, and if it gets loose then there is a gap between hotend and heat brake even if hotend is tightened till end.
if you cannot fix the v*rus, fix the Mosquito which transports the v*rus
LOL, 😀
Mosquito Hotend is overpriced for no reason better to go for dragon v6
Thanks for your insight!