Hi Tom, I do apologize that you have to go through all the trouble/hassle just to test the OPAM. (That is certainly not my intention.) I have hoped that you could have experience the actual performance of the OPAM (The unit that I have been testing does that have any burrs in the nozzle) The main issue that I noted is the nozzle's burr / uneven tip surface and I will work with my vendors to resolve this machining issue. Thanks for your honest review!
I wouldnt trust what this guy is saying, literally everything that comes from china is nothing but problems. If his product is bad, its because he cut corners and went the cheaper route.
Good concept and as a new hardware concept, there will be obstacles. Looking forward to more design iterations and mass production so costs can be achievable.
9 лет назад+10
Well in all fairness I think that bonding the thermistor inside its hole would have shown better result with the PID loop. Having air gap between the block and thermistor will greatly affect heat transfer between them. But the machining of the block looks horrible. Thanks for the review.
Perhaps you could print a small sacrificial block with a vertical hole to put the tip of the hotend into and then sand the hole thing with some fine sandpaper. That should get rid of the countersunk hole and ensure a smooth and flat tip perpendicular to the bore.
Hi, Thomas. You state that water-cooling is not necessary, but I've dealt with a lot of issues with the E3D v5 hotend and J-head. I made a small water-cooler from copepr with two 5mm OD tubes, going from a pump to the head. This setup makes me able to print everything I've thrown at the hotend. PLA won't stick to the heatbreak, TPE prints nicely. Before that my J-head melted, leaked, and everything got stuck inside the E3D. But as you say: A heated build-champer will be one of the things where the water-cooler will actually make it worth your while. Thank you for some nice videos. Regards, Christian Lerche
The fact that Marlin rejects the hot end should definitely be a clue to the designers. I was asking on Github whether it would be worth adjusting the PID tuning to be able to handle such a long lag time between powering the heater and receiving the heat, but such a huge amount of delay is really hard to work with. Plus, Marlin also has the option to do temperature adjustment based on the extra average-volume-over-time of material being heated (volumetric compensation), and that can make the temperature graph wavy if it isn't in sync, even with good PID tuning. Of course, the whole point of PID tuning is simply to pulse in as much heat as is (or will be) lost, and that algorithm has a lot of tolerance, especially due to heat sinking. While the stainless steel takes longer to heat, it probably also maintains its core temperature longer, for a bit more built-in tolerance. I think your messy results were mostly due to the long chamfered nozzle tip, which I guess you can machine flat. But truly, it looks like a lot more trouble than it's worth. I'd just spring for a quieter fan.
Just having four big water hoses going to the hot end would be the show stopper for me. The heavy weight is going to increase ringing defects in the print, and you can even see that in the sample displayed here. Not being able to swap out nozzles is also a major negative, especially when the built-in nozzle is total crap.
If this was put together by EK or Swiftech this could be awesome. A good watercooling loop with radiator would let you get 2 hot ends pretty close together for duel extrusion so you would loose less print space. Heck you could probably run 4 off a loop for some 4 color printing or some crazy prints with pla pva and some flex all in the same print with no purging towers.
I could see water cooling for a CYMKW mixing + soluble support hot end, where the heat of the bigger size heater and the secondary one might make the cooling fan work too hard.
Looks like something like that, with an interchangeable nozzle of a proper design, would be good for heated chamber printers. little tip, grab a flat small file and reprofile that tip so that its flat where the filament comes out (make sure you have plastic in the nozzle so shavings don't go up in the nozzle). i had a cheap chinese hot end that i bought as backup and had a really funky nozzle tip that was chowdering up all my prints. reprofiled the tip with small files into a smooth cone with a flat at the very tip, and it prints beautifully now, better than the one it was backup for.
I design water cooling parts for a living so I am quite sure an excellent performing water cooling setup is possible. Replace the stainless with copper, make the tip removable, ditch the four tube Y setup for a single inlet and outlet, and switch to a flexible silicone tube. Also get rid of the clunky quick connects and replace them with either barbs or better yet compression fittings. While you are at it put the bucket used for an open loop back in the broom closet and switch to a closed loop with a reservoir and a better pump. Also a single 140mm radiator. IOW yes you CAN make a high performance water cooled hot end...just now at a price anyone will want to pay compared to a more typical air cooled system.
LOL...that is like designing an improved pair of braces for someone who doesn't wear trousers.....most people don't need water cooled heat sink blocks because as CHEP noted on another UTUBE review the heat sink does not get hot.
Hi, i know i'm late to the topic, but seeing heads like the diamond something, with 3 holes converging so that it can mix colors makes me think that watercooling may be a solution for such complex hotends. For full color, you would require 5 filaments, so 5 heatsinks. It would be almost impossible to fit in a decent sized head. With properly done watercooling, i think it could be done. In this case, i feel like the heat exchanger was poorly done if it needs 4 tubes. A proper heat exchanger would require only an in and an out. I'm thinking of microchanel or impact jets, which are not so hard to design. And while at it, a copper block would fare much better. So any thoughts on this? a 5 filaments mixing extruder, with a copper waterblock, a correct nozzle (that can be changed) could be the key to a full color plastic printer.
Thomas, great video but a bit of an issue when you compared it to the e3d v5. Could you try printing in black? It brings out the details much more And your temperature is too high. I have e3d v5 and v4 hotends (which are the same thing) and I dont have the same issues as I seen with yours. I lowered my temperature all the way down to 168 and it printed perfectly. Just a tip when you make future prints.
Great videos!! You talk a lot about the results of the hotends, but when it comes to for example overhangs and bridges that can be fixed with a fan face to the printing part. The nozzles can make a big different to? There`s lots of other things that can change the result. So isn´t it hard to tell sometimes what realy is making the result? Have you ever thought of making your own custom made 3d printer ( and ofc showing it for use)?! Thanks!!
Thanks for the review. It was very interesting. I've only recently gotten into three d printing and I've already destroyed one extruder. The problem was that I didn't know there was a plastic heat break buried deep in the part, so when I started experimenting with higher and higher temperatures eventually it let out a puff of smoke and was no more.. if I'd had one of these though... anyways it seems like most of your problems were due to weird manufacturing errors, I would be more interested in if it continues to print at higher temperatures with out jamming.
Hi Thomas, great video, however I'm curious, why you are comparing the OPAM to the e3d V5 and not the V6 (is there a reason, why you didnt stick to the v6 after testing it ?) Also I'd like to hear your opinion about dual extrusion, is it a thing for you ? Would you use it and therefore buy / test ie the e3d chimera or cyclops ? And lastly I'd like to know, what motors you use for the axis' that move your hotend. Especially paying attention to the torque, would you build in stronger motors for dual extrusion ? I love the music, keep that ! It gives a more professional touch to the videos and those zoom-in/-out pictures are a great way to compare fine details of the nozzles!
Marius Breuer I'd also be really interested to hear any reasons for swapping back to the v5. I'd guess you just had all your settings and calibrations done on your v5, and the v6 is just an iteration without any major leap forward to justify replacing it.
Water cooling should in theory allow one to pump more heat into the tip, and push more plastic through, and hopefully print faster. The single block tip and hot block looks like a bad idea to me, though!
The fixed nozzle is a problem... I would have used an e3D style nozzle so that you can replace it when it eventually wears without replacing the entire heater block.
Hi Thomas. Kurze Frage zu deiner Meinung. Ich habe ein 1.75 Merlin Hotend und war immer zufrieden damit mit perfekten prints PLA in 0,2mm layer height mit einem 0,5 nozzel bei 195-200°C 50mm/s. Bis ich versucht habe die Print Geschwindigkeit Richtung 100 zu ziehen. Ich erkenne exakt die gleichen Fehler wie bei deinem OPAM Hotend print mit starken Moire Muster. Ich dachte bis jetzt es liegt am Extruder und bau schon die ganze Zeit neue Modelle (derzeitig Universal bowden extruder Ti-x1 by Tigeer) oder gar Microstepping Probleme (Kliment DRV8825) und wollte schon zu Fast Decay mode Mod übergehen. Aber Dein Vergleich zu einem E3D v5 6:16 hat mir etwas die Augen geöffnet oO. Was meinst du? Kann es sein, dass es eher an meinem alten Merlin Hotend liegt, oder doch eher das der Direct Drive nicht mitkommt? Grüße aus Stuttgart, du machst tolle Videos!
Hey tom! I have a question: which filament do you ultimately prefer and is a golden standard to all filaments you have used before? Have you ever used hatchbox from amazon.com or prototype supply from toybuilderlabs.com? Can you recommend any filaments?
LMFAO@ the counter sunk extrusion tip. These guys truly have no idea what they are doing. I don't know why I expected more from a water cooled hot end to begin with though.
Richard Smith the counter sunk nozzle us used on pro printers (I was also pretty surprised). If done correctly can be a good thing, this guys have done just a lot of bad things in that part
+Thomas Sanladerer Do you know of any manufacturers that make a water cooled hotend that will fit a printrbot simple? I'm building a heated enclosure. I'm a little worried about the coldzone and Brook said he would have to ask Carl. I'm trying to get a stable 70C and am afraid that is too warm for the coldzone Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hey Tom, great vid as always. I will be graduation with a BS in Physics this Friday and my amazing girlfriend got me a E3d Chimera to congratulate me. I currently have a Melzi 2.1 control board and was wondering if you could do a video about how to setup dual extrusion. I know ill most likely need to purchase a new control board, or a dual extrusion extension for my current board, but it would be be great to get a video that highlights the basics of setup. If you have any suggestions on control boards for dual extrusion that would be great as well!
I am working on a water cooler to simply replace the fan on my maker select. this will let me move the fan off of the head and use a much larger but also MUCH MUCH quieter fan to cool the opposite water block. I just want noise reduction :-) same hot end and all just replace the heatsink and fan with a water cooler block. its only $35 in parts so why not try.
Depends on how waterproof your rig is, wher it leaks from, how long before you notice and the size of your water bucket. I used to water cool my PC and if you are unlucky just ditch the electronics and PSU. No point now, the newer ones have lots of power and produce less heat.
Rather then water cooling, I'd prefer someone make a glass, or even better, ceramic joiner for the cold end and hot end. Other then the difficulty associated with glasswork, there's not really a reason for it.
***** Interesting! I probably would not have noticed this article simply because of the language barrier. It is intersting and does point out some issues though. Ceramic joiners need a glass insert. Glass has a lower friction co-efficient.
***** It should at high/thicker layer heights, at lower layers you will be dragging a big flat over your extrusion width but that may be better than wide skids and/or an air pocket.
relevant update! i've recently had a nozzle that was a few degrees off. it works best to lay the file on a roll of tape on the print bed, and lower the head onto it. i lapped the nozzle, to get it mirror smooth, which gave it a slight dome shape. result: slightly detremental to the wall surface finish, but perfect for massaging layers of transparent PETG into a bubble free and see-through clear solid. if you attempt this, have the nozzle full with cold PLA, to avoid creating a bur on the inside.
Is a good heat sink compound useful for better energy transfer? I use it but lately I have noted white flakes of compound on the heat bed. So I need a sealant also. I do hope you're just a kid and don't realize you WON'T be making 3d videos until you die. ("What IS a video grandpa?" "There are people that make stuff? Did their BOT quit on them?")
Why would you have 4 huge tubes? Seems to me you really do not need much water flow and 2 thin tubes would be far less weight and more managible. Also that "nozzle" is a joke, in stainless steel no less:( I do enjoy your videos Thomas keep em coming:)
Water cooling is great, until you have a moving target, like a 3d print head. This really could have been done better but for most is not needed. The end result has multiple flaws that might initially seem good ideas but are not.
Robert Gress the heat coming out of the water cooler is so small. one liter water tank will barely feel warm to the touch even after 12 hours printing.
well my system has grow lights that need to be cooled. The pump generates heat. My CPU needs to be cooled. And my grow system needs to be heated. I figure if I cool everything that needs to be cooled and use it to heat my system. it would be an awesome setup. It wasn't a very serious comment. More of a ridiculous project idea.
wow, water cooled, someone has done it to show how it is impractical on a 3D printer. OK, that's cool LOL. The temptation to do it is sort of a wish or at least a thought considered by perhaps anyone who has done CNC machining with a water cooled head. A couple Rabit 2/3 micro injection molfding machines I own, have water cooling directly imbeded in the square metal frame of the molding machine. I suppose they this to cool both the metal frame and all metal that is attached to hold the molds, so it cools the complete metal ystem and hides all lines except those that need to be attached to the molds for faster cooling. This is only required on the molding machine if you are going to inject mold with high speed lots and lots of parts per minute, meaning high rate cycles. Otherswise for onsie twosies water cooling is not required as simply you have to wait for the mold to cool off and you do not have the issue of molds overheating due to excessive high cycles. While this is not the same process on a 3D printer, consistent cool air flow is required on the latter. Would be nice if we could bypass all that contraption required by water cooling. KISS works for me and a good air fan withn proper understanding of het break and hot end design works. Why do we still use cheese thermistors and not proper PID Controllers, with K-type screw on thermo sensors for precision. A floating thermisor is never going to give you proper temperature reading by the controller.
Ideally the filament would melt just when reaching the tip of the nozzle, giving you the most precision over the amount of molten material coming out and keeping all the rest of the printer above it from melting. In reality that molten zone is a bit larger as the hottest point is the heater block. But just above that, there's a heatsink to stop that zone from expanding upwards into your extruder motor or bowden tube.
to stop it getting stuck.... this system might make sense for those high temp hottends that go up to like 500*C... otherwise it would take a massive heatsink and fan to maintain that temperature gradient.
Great idea (although far from new), but incredibly bad implementation. First rule of successful innovation - only change what needs improving - do not mess with the parts that don't have a problem. Doing away with the standard aluminum heater block and removable brass nozzle was a very stupid idea. They also have a very poor choice of tubing (should have used fine silicone tubing), and a closed system heat exchanger to cool the water. The bucket of water solution is very hokey.
agreed. this looks like a first attempt at a promising design, with none of the flaws ironed out. every detail is just wrong in another quirky way, like it's never been tested. (FFS! a $4 usb powered aquarium power head. lol) one piece nozzles are done right on the prometheus hot end, and they have a couple of benefits. i can see a well engineered and actually light weight, water cooled bowden hotends becoming the new standard on for high speed and delta printers. once somebody makes one. PS: here's the pump :D www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Pump-simulate-Environment/dp/B008OCZUK6
Let me start by saying that I appreciate your honesty and the thorough nature of your videos. Also, I think that rather than saying something, 'doesn't make sense', a better way of saying what I think you might have been trying to communicate in a more precise manner is something similar to, "I think that there might be benefits to water cooling.....but the design I was sent did not show any. ....and then suggest to the company that they do the testing of the prototypes first and then send you one as close to manufacture as possible, that way they will be able to get a HUGE benefit from your advertisement." Plus, it would definitely work to cause positive reinforcement of technology that might (although not within the norm) have the potential to elevate the art). Yet another reason this might be a good thing to do, is because there are a lot of stupid people (for instance in administration...not business administration NECESSARILY....{can you tell I am an Engineer by trade?}), who have little-to-NO concept of delayed gratification in anything (especially in testing some technology to the point to where it is REALLY READY for manufacture and sale on a large scale).... Summary: Perhaps you could try to be a bit more cognizant of the effects of the wording of your critique on the engineers (and by extension the desire for working toward innovation). Take it or leave it (my advice)...also I understand that you may be looking at things from a totally different perspective than me (which perspective is neither right NOR wrong in my humble opinion). Keep up the good work Thomas!
Well, as an engineering person too, I would think that just a simple direct cooling of a modified heat break with finning, either by a small air pipe (from an aquarium air pump) or water if you really must get complicated, would render the upper aluminium heat sink obsolete and the fan along with it too, which means less weight so that you could fit a direct drive to make improvements more practical.....cooling for cooling's sake is not a factor for good printing.
Whow. Just reading it now and this is SO sucky - how the heck can anyone think that is a decent idea? The GENERAL idea is good, to a degree. But the execution has so many STUPID mistakes it makes no freaking sense, including not being albe to maintain the nozzle AT ALL. Beginner mistakes.
Thanks for the review. It was very interesting. I've only recently gotten into three d printing and I've already destroyed one extruder. The problem was that I didn't know there was a plastic heat break buried deep in the part, so when I started experimenting with higher and higher temperatures eventually it let out a puff of smoke and was no more.. if I'd had one of these though... anyways it seems like most of your problems were due to weird manufacturing errors, I would be more interested in if it continues to print at higher temperatures with out jamming.
They lost me at the fixed nozzle :(
Hi Tom,
I do apologize that you have to go through all the trouble/hassle just to test the OPAM. (That is certainly not my intention.)
I have hoped that you could have experience the actual performance of the OPAM (The unit that I have been testing does that have any burrs in the nozzle)
The main issue that I noted is the nozzle's burr / uneven tip surface and I will work with my vendors to resolve this machining issue.
Thanks for your honest review!
Ho Leong khit Hello Ho, you should make your product more modular.
I wouldnt trust what this guy is saying, literally everything that comes from china is nothing but problems. If his product is bad, its because he cut corners and went the cheaper route.
Chaos When you realise Singapore isn't part of China
+
Good concept and as a new hardware concept, there will be obstacles. Looking forward to more design iterations and mass production so costs can be achievable.
Well in all fairness I think that bonding the thermistor inside its hole would have shown better result with the PID loop. Having air gap between the block and thermistor will greatly affect heat transfer between them. But the machining of the block looks horrible. Thanks for the review.
Perhaps you could print a small sacrificial block with a vertical hole to put the tip of the hotend into and then sand the hole thing with some fine sandpaper. That should get rid of the countersunk hole and ensure a smooth and flat tip perpendicular to the bore.
Hi, Thomas.
You state that water-cooling is not necessary, but I've dealt with a lot of issues with the E3D v5 hotend and J-head.
I made a small water-cooler from copepr with two 5mm OD tubes, going from a pump to the head. This setup makes me able to print everything I've thrown at the hotend. PLA won't stick to the heatbreak, TPE prints nicely.
Before that my J-head melted, leaked, and everything got stuck inside the E3D.
But as you say: A heated build-champer will be one of the things where the water-cooler will actually make it worth your while.
Thank you for some nice videos.
Regards,
Christian Lerche
The fact that Marlin rejects the hot end should definitely be a clue to the designers. I was asking on Github whether it would be worth adjusting the PID tuning to be able to handle such a long lag time between powering the heater and receiving the heat, but such a huge amount of delay is really hard to work with. Plus, Marlin also has the option to do temperature adjustment based on the extra average-volume-over-time of material being heated (volumetric compensation), and that can make the temperature graph wavy if it isn't in sync, even with good PID tuning. Of course, the whole point of PID tuning is simply to pulse in as much heat as is (or will be) lost, and that algorithm has a lot of tolerance, especially due to heat sinking. While the stainless steel takes longer to heat, it probably also maintains its core temperature longer, for a bit more built-in tolerance. I think your messy results were mostly due to the long chamfered nozzle tip, which I guess you can machine flat. But truly, it looks like a lot more trouble than it's worth. I'd just spring for a quieter fan.
Just having four big water hoses going to the hot end would be the show stopper for me. The heavy weight is going to increase ringing defects in the print, and you can even see that in the sample displayed here. Not being able to swap out nozzles is also a major negative, especially when the built-in nozzle is total crap.
If this was put together by EK or Swiftech this could be awesome. A good watercooling loop with radiator would let you get 2 hot ends pretty close together for duel extrusion so you would loose less print space. Heck you could probably run 4 off a loop for some 4 color printing or some crazy prints with pla pva and some flex all in the same print with no purging towers.
I could see water cooling for a CYMKW mixing + soluble support hot end, where the heat of the bigger size heater and the secondary one might make the cooling fan work too hard.
Looks like something like that, with an interchangeable nozzle of a proper design, would be good for heated chamber printers. little tip, grab a flat small file and reprofile that tip so that its flat where the filament comes out (make sure you have plastic in the nozzle so shavings don't go up in the nozzle). i had a cheap chinese hot end that i bought as backup and had a really funky nozzle tip that was chowdering up all my prints. reprofiled the tip with small files into a smooth cone with a flat at the very tip, and it prints beautifully now, better than the one it was backup for.
Wouldn't have potting the replacement thermistor also, have helped to control the PID loop better?
......... So basically it sucks.
I design water cooling parts for a living so I am quite sure an excellent performing water cooling setup is possible. Replace the stainless with copper, make the tip removable, ditch the four tube Y setup for a single inlet and outlet, and switch to a flexible silicone tube. Also get rid of the clunky quick connects and replace them with either barbs or better yet compression fittings. While you are at it put the bucket used for an open loop back in the broom closet and switch to a closed loop with a reservoir and a better pump. Also a single 140mm radiator.
IOW yes you CAN make a high performance water cooled hot end...just now at a price anyone will want to pay compared to a more typical air cooled system.
LOL...that is like designing an improved pair of braces for someone who doesn't wear trousers.....most people don't need water cooled heat sink blocks because as CHEP noted on another UTUBE review the heat sink does not get hot.
Hi, i know i'm late to the topic, but seeing heads like the diamond something, with 3 holes converging so that it can mix colors makes me think that watercooling may be a solution for such complex hotends. For full color, you would require 5 filaments, so 5 heatsinks. It would be almost impossible to fit in a decent sized head.
With properly done watercooling, i think it could be done.
In this case, i feel like the heat exchanger was poorly done if it needs 4 tubes. A proper heat exchanger would require only an in and an out. I'm thinking of microchanel or impact jets, which are not so hard to design. And while at it, a copper block would fare much better.
So any thoughts on this? a 5 filaments mixing extruder, with a copper waterblock, a correct nozzle (that can be changed) could be the key to a full color plastic printer.
Thomas, great video but a bit of an issue when you compared it to the e3d v5.
Could you try printing in black? It brings out the details much more
And your temperature is too high. I have e3d v5 and v4 hotends (which are the same thing) and I dont have the same issues as I seen with yours. I lowered my temperature all the way down to 168 and it printed perfectly. Just a tip when you make future prints.
Great videos!! You talk a lot about the results of the hotends, but when it comes to for example overhangs and bridges that can be fixed with a fan face to the printing part. The nozzles can make a big different to? There`s lots of other things that can change the result. So isn´t it hard to tell sometimes what realy is making the result? Have you ever thought of making your own custom made 3d printer ( and ofc showing it for use)?! Thanks!!
Thanks for the review. It was very interesting. I've only recently gotten into three d printing and I've already destroyed one extruder. The problem was that I didn't know there was a plastic heat break buried deep in the part, so when I started experimenting with higher and higher temperatures eventually it let out a puff of smoke and was no more.. if I'd had one of these though... anyways it seems like most of your problems were due to weird manufacturing errors, I would be more interested in if it continues to print at higher temperatures with out jamming.
Hi Thomas,
great video, however I'm curious, why you are comparing the OPAM to the e3d V5 and not the V6 (is there a reason, why you didnt stick to the v6 after testing it ?)
Also I'd like to hear your opinion about dual extrusion, is it a thing for you ? Would you use it and therefore buy / test ie the e3d chimera or cyclops ?
And lastly I'd like to know, what motors you use for the axis' that move your hotend. Especially paying attention to the torque, would you build in stronger motors for dual extrusion ?
I love the music, keep that ! It gives a more professional touch to the videos and those zoom-in/-out pictures are a great way to compare fine details of the nozzles!
Marius Breuer I'd also be really interested to hear any reasons for swapping back to the v5. I'd guess you just had all your settings and calibrations done on your v5, and the v6 is just an iteration without any major leap forward to justify replacing it.
Water cooling should in theory allow one to pump more heat into the tip, and push more plastic through, and hopefully print faster. The single block tip and hot block looks like a bad idea to me, though!
If I really wanted a water cooled hot end I'd get the Kraken. With four nozzles, it is at least worth the extra weight, and you can swap nozzles.
Tom, great video, but I just need to know what lenses, barrels, and or sorcery you use to get your macro shots because they look amazing .
The fixed nozzle is a problem... I would have used an e3D style nozzle so that you can replace it when it eventually wears without replacing the entire heater block.
Hi Thomas. Kurze Frage zu deiner Meinung. Ich habe ein 1.75 Merlin Hotend und war immer zufrieden damit mit perfekten prints PLA in 0,2mm layer height mit einem 0,5 nozzel bei 195-200°C 50mm/s. Bis ich versucht habe die Print Geschwindigkeit Richtung 100 zu ziehen. Ich erkenne exakt die gleichen Fehler wie bei deinem OPAM Hotend print mit starken Moire Muster. Ich dachte bis jetzt es liegt am Extruder und bau schon die ganze Zeit neue Modelle (derzeitig Universal bowden extruder Ti-x1 by Tigeer) oder gar Microstepping Probleme (Kliment DRV8825) und wollte schon zu Fast Decay mode Mod übergehen. Aber Dein Vergleich zu einem E3D v5 6:16 hat mir etwas die Augen geöffnet oO. Was meinst du? Kann es sein, dass es eher an meinem alten Merlin Hotend liegt, oder doch eher das der Direct Drive nicht mitkommt? Grüße aus Stuttgart, du machst tolle Videos!
The great thing about water cooled hotend is the lack of fan blowing on your print. For ABS this greatly reduces warping.
Turn off the fan.
Hey tom! I have a question: which filament do you ultimately prefer and is a golden standard to all filaments you have used before? Have you ever used hatchbox from amazon.com or prototype supply from toybuilderlabs.com? Can you recommend any filaments?
maybe put a little non electrical conductive thermal paste in the thermistor hole to better improve thermal conductivity transfer?
LMFAO@ the counter sunk extrusion tip. These guys truly have no idea what they are doing. I don't know why I expected more from a water cooled hot end to begin with though.
punchline of the video;p
Richard Smith the counter sunk nozzle us used on pro printers (I was also pretty surprised). If done correctly can be a good thing, this guys have done just a lot of bad things in that part
And how is it, does it pass the test? I have a problem in my ender 3 pro with a closing hotend
+Thomas Sanladerer Do you know of any manufacturers that make a water cooled hotend that will fit a printrbot simple? I'm building a heated enclosure. I'm a little worried about the coldzone and Brook said he would have to ask Carl. I'm trying to get a stable 70C and am afraid that is too warm for the coldzone Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
which is your favorite hot end for very defined clean printing
If you modified it using a big radiator from a cpu cooling system it would make it better than the bucket.
Hey Tom, great vid as always. I will be graduation with a BS in Physics this Friday and my amazing girlfriend got me a E3d Chimera to congratulate me. I currently have a Melzi 2.1 control board and was wondering if you could do a video about how to setup dual extrusion. I know ill most likely need to purchase a new control board, or a dual extrusion extension for my current board, but it would be be great to get a video that highlights the basics of setup. If you have any suggestions on control boards for dual extrusion that would be great as well!
I think ill be purchasing a cheap Geeetech RAMBo, I hope I dont have issues with it.
redrill the tipp... remove the preset tip drill a new taped hole for interchanging tips, it will work nicely, would love to see that on your video
I am working on a water cooler to simply replace the fan on my maker select. this will let me move the fan off of the head and use a much larger but also MUCH MUCH quieter fan to cool the opposite water block. I just want noise reduction :-) same hot end and all just replace the heatsink and fan with a water cooler block. its only $35 in parts so why not try.
Is there a video that shows how to install a E3D power cables? I got it after watching your video but I just cant figure it out. Thank you.
You could probably re-machine the nozzle on a lathe and try it again
Do a review on the kraken water cooled. It's pretty nice so far.
If anything leaks, you're going to have a bad time.
Depends on how waterproof your rig is, wher it leaks from, how long before you notice and the size of your water bucket.
I used to water cool my PC and if you are unlucky just ditch the electronics and PSU. No point now, the newer ones have lots of power and produce less heat.
Great info Tom you're awesome
Theoretically It's the only way you could cool a print head if you were printing in a vacuum
Rather then water cooling, I'd prefer someone make a glass, or even better, ceramic joiner for the cold end and hot end. Other then the difficulty associated with glasswork, there's not really a reason for it.
***** Interesting! I probably would not have noticed this article simply because of the language barrier. It is intersting and does point out some issues though. Ceramic joiners need a glass insert. Glass has a lower friction co-efficient.
What about taking an angel grinder to the tip to make it flat?
***** It should at high/thicker layer heights, at lower layers you will be dragging a big flat over your extrusion width but that may be better than wide skids and/or an air pocket.
***** Could be you got a lemon doesn't make sense they would miss such a big flaw in testing. Did you reach out to them about it?
there is such a thing as a fine dead-smooth file ;)
That escalated quickly. I was thinking about maybe a file, or some sandpaper myself.
relevant update! i've recently had a nozzle that was a few degrees off.
it works best to lay the file on a roll of tape on the print bed, and lower the head onto it. i lapped the nozzle, to get it mirror smooth, which gave it a slight dome shape. result: slightly detremental to the wall surface finish, but perfect for massaging layers of transparent PETG into a bubble free and see-through clear solid. if you attempt this, have the nozzle full with cold PLA, to avoid creating a bur on the inside.
hey tom can you exchanges out a monoprice extuder to a different extuder
Try the e3d titan aqua that should work better
dude i lost it when you said red ring
Will it clog up
Is a good heat sink compound useful for better energy transfer? I use it but lately I have noted white flakes of compound on the heat bed. So I need a sealant also.
I do hope you're just a kid and don't realize you WON'T be making 3d videos until you die. ("What IS a video grandpa?" "There are people that make stuff? Did their BOT quit on them?")
Nice review Thomas..
Back to the drawing board.. :o)
Let me know when they make an ABS that don't warp.. :o\
please do a review of the e3d lite6
Why would you have 4 huge tubes? Seems to me you really do not need much water flow and 2 thin tubes would be far less weight and more managible. Also that "nozzle" is a joke, in stainless steel no less:(
I do enjoy your videos Thomas keep em coming:)
Water cooling is great, until you have a moving target, like a 3d print head. This really could have been done better but for most is not needed.
The end result has multiple flaws that might initially seem good ideas but are not.
Triumph of form over content
I want to have everything generating excess heat water-cooled into a heat sink which heats my aquaponic system in the winter.
Robert Gress the heat coming out of the water cooler is so small. one liter water tank will barely feel warm to the touch even after 12 hours printing.
well my system has grow lights that need to be cooled. The pump generates heat. My CPU needs to be cooled. And my grow system needs to be heated. I figure if I cool everything that needs to be cooled and use it to heat my system. it would be an awesome setup. It wasn't a very serious comment. More of a ridiculous project idea.
Singapore? Hello from Singapore!
This whole solution reminds me of a Rube Goldberg machine...yes it cools...but there are way simpler solutions.
8 years ago!!! 8 years ago people are working on water cooling. Still today not most used
5 years later i comment on the video...5 years ago a waterblock for the top gpu cost as much as a top gpu.
wow, water cooled, someone has done it to show how it is impractical on a 3D printer. OK, that's cool LOL. The temptation to do it is sort of a wish or at least a thought considered by perhaps anyone who has done CNC machining with a water cooled head. A couple Rabit 2/3 micro injection molfding machines I own, have water cooling directly imbeded in the square metal frame of the molding machine. I suppose they this to cool both the metal frame and all metal that is attached to hold the molds, so it cools the complete metal ystem and hides all lines except those that need to be attached to the molds for faster cooling. This is only required on the molding machine if you are going to inject mold with high speed lots and lots of parts per minute, meaning high rate cycles. Otherswise for onsie twosies water cooling is not required as simply you have to wait for the mold to cool off and you do not have the issue of molds overheating due to excessive high cycles. While this is not the same process on a 3D printer, consistent cool air flow is required on the latter. Would be nice if we could bypass all that contraption required by water cooling. KISS works for me and a good air fan withn proper understanding of het break and hot end design works.
Why do we still use cheese thermistors and not proper PID Controllers, with K-type screw on thermo sensors for precision. A floating thermisor is never going to give you proper temperature reading by the controller.
probably with a e3D style designed nozzle it would print really well. But that nozzle design is the worst yet.
can i have the stl to that boat?
why would u cool the hotend i thought it was supposed to get hot and then u cooled the plastic coming out ?
It's cooling the stainless block not the hot end.
Ideally the filament would melt just when reaching the tip of the nozzle, giving you the most precision over the amount of molten material coming out and keeping all the rest of the printer above it from melting. In reality that molten zone is a bit larger as the hottest point is the heater block. But just above that, there's a heatsink to stop that zone from expanding upwards into your extruder motor or bowden tube.
to stop it getting stuck.... this system might make sense for those high temp hottends that go up to like 500*C... otherwise it would take a massive heatsink and fan to maintain that temperature gradient.
THE MIC
Nicee :)
This is crazy
nice review and glad I didn't get this. lol
Great idea (although far from new), but incredibly bad implementation. First rule of successful innovation - only change what needs improving - do not mess with the parts that don't have a problem.
Doing away with the standard aluminum heater block and removable brass nozzle was a very stupid idea. They also have a very poor choice of tubing (should have used fine silicone tubing), and a closed system heat exchanger to cool the water. The bucket of water solution is very hokey.
agreed. this looks like a first attempt at a promising design, with none of the flaws ironed out. every detail is just wrong in another quirky way, like it's never been tested. (FFS! a $4 usb powered aquarium power head. lol)
one piece nozzles are done right on the prometheus hot end, and they have a couple of benefits.
i can see a well engineered and actually light weight, water cooled bowden hotends becoming the new standard on for high speed and delta printers. once somebody makes one.
PS: here's the pump :D www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Pump-simulate-Environment/dp/B008OCZUK6
Let me start by saying that I appreciate your honesty and the thorough nature of your videos. Also, I think that rather than saying something, 'doesn't make sense', a better way of saying what I think you might have been trying to communicate in a more precise manner is something similar to, "I think that there might be benefits to water cooling.....but the design I was sent did not show any. ....and then suggest to the company that they do the testing of the prototypes first and then send you one as close to manufacture as possible, that way they will be able to get a HUGE benefit from your advertisement." Plus, it would definitely work to cause positive reinforcement of technology that might (although not within the norm) have the potential to elevate the art).
Yet another reason this might be a good thing to do, is because there are a lot of stupid people (for instance in administration...not business administration NECESSARILY....{can you tell I am an Engineer by trade?}), who have little-to-NO concept of delayed gratification in anything (especially in testing some technology to the point to where it is REALLY READY for manufacture and sale on a large scale)....
Summary: Perhaps you could try to be a bit more cognizant of the effects of the wording of your critique on the engineers (and by extension the desire for working toward innovation). Take it or leave it (my advice)...also I understand that you may be looking at things from a totally different perspective than me (which perspective is neither right NOR wrong in my humble opinion).
Keep up the good work Thomas!
Well, as an engineering person too, I would think that just a simple direct cooling of a modified heat break with finning, either by a small air pipe (from an aquarium air pump) or water if you really must get complicated, would render the upper aluminium heat sink obsolete and the fan along with it too, which means less weight so that you could fit a direct drive to make improvements more practical.....cooling for cooling's sake is not a factor for good printing.
By 5mins in its sounding like a pile of crap....and 6mins....death knell.
There's a lot of fail going on here.
sooo... in one simple sentence: good idea, badly engineered
A clear no-buy
why do you look like you were trying to eat Cheetos but missed your mouth?
why stainless? why one piece? the idea has potential but man this was poorly executed.
Whow. Just reading it now and this is SO sucky - how the heck can anyone think that is a decent idea? The GENERAL idea is good, to a degree. But the execution has so many STUPID mistakes it makes no freaking sense, including not being albe to maintain the nozzle AT ALL. Beginner mistakes.
Thanks for the review. It was very interesting. I've only recently
gotten into three d printing and I've already destroyed one extruder.
The problem was that I didn't know there was a plastic heat break buried
deep in the part, so when I started experimenting with higher and
higher temperatures eventually it let out a puff of smoke and was no
more.. if I'd had one of these though... anyways it seems like most of
your problems were due to weird manufacturing errors, I would be more
interested in if it continues to print at higher temperatures with out
jamming.
‘only destroyed one extruder’ LOL