By the way, this method takes a very very long time to fix... All you need to do is just tilt the washing machine to rest on a wall. Put blocks on both sides of the washing machine Undo two screws replace the front panel for the drain pump, unscrew the pump, Force the drain hose through the unit. Then you can go underneath, disconnect all hoses. Then disconnect the electrical connectors. Free the unit from the holder. Unscrew the plastic body from the pump... Get your new pump and reverse steps
Thank you for your comments. As the comments so far have shown, there are at least two versions of this type. The one I repaired has a completely sealed plastic sheet covering the bottom, which also holds the shocks and is very difficult to remove. So it is easier to replace the pump module from the front on this type. There is the other version, according to the commenters, where the bottom of the washer is open and the pump can be easily replaced from there.
Can the hoses on the top of the tub that you unclogged cause the drain pump to fail? I’ve changed the drain pump twice in about three years and it looks like it needs to be changed again. I’ve never checked those hoses.
I don't think so. The drain pump is independent from these hoses. One of them connects to the circulating pump, other to the steam generator. I think, if there are too many solid contaminants in the water (sand) the drain pump will wear out sooner.
Just a question - couldnt one just place the Maschine on its side and remove the pump from the bottom, not removing all top and front?! It somehow looks really excessive...
If I remember well, with this washing machine, the lower plastic cover not only completely covers the bottom of the lower part, but also holds the three shock absorbers. And they certainly tense when you turn the device on its side.
@@mcelec7603 my LG is definitely "hollow" at the bottom. But it is nice note about springs. They definitely wouldn't like if the machine will be turned..
@@TushhsuT Someone else has already written that his also has a hole at the bottom. Apparently there are as many varieties of this type as there are spaceships in Star Wars. 😀The exact type anyway: F1480 QDS
Hi again. I have just changed the pump, gently placing the machine on it's side. I don't have a bottom plate and everything below was very well accessible. Then contacts should be pulled out and three screws removed. (Of course before all of it one should pull the cable out and drain all the water). The biggest challenge was to Place a new pump in its place - o-ring did not wanted to go inside. White pipe's lubricant helped. Screws back, cable in - test wash is running. Otherwise - quite straightforward replacement. Oh.. have taken a look on your video once again. My machine has only one pump behind, not two at the sides.
How easy is it to remove the bottom plastic cover? This lower housing holds the shock absorbers and the Aquastop detector switch at this washing machine.
@@mcelec7603I have a front loader that's a few years old now and it got thrown out because of a failing pump I took that pump apart greased the bearing with marine grade grease haven't had trouble since
I miss the strange sound of the pump in this video. I want to match it with the sound of my pump, so I can determine if it's broken. For the rest nice video.
The original pump part No is 5859EN1006C, the compatible ASKOLL is 4681EA2001E or EAU61383505. They are 220-240V, 30W, with three-screw fixing and with rotor side connectors.
I installed Askoll drain pumps. The position of electrical terminals is important. At this washer both pumps have the terminals in rotor side. Another important thing is the mains voltage. This grey pump is for 220/240V machines. www.ebay.com/itm/ASKOLL-WATER-DRAIN-PUMP-MOTOR-FOR-to-fit-LG-WASHING-MACHINES-AP1020-/131992060310
A few years earlier I had replaced the entire pump unit because the circulation pump was very rattled. At that time I cleaned everything before replacing the pump, but unfortunately the noise did not go away. Now I bought the pump in advance ( the aftermarket one is not a big expense and now I see that it has a longer life) because I decided in advance that I will replace it. By the way the nozzle clogging surprised me too. Maybe if the filter and nozzle are cleaned in time the pump will last longer.
Cost of one pump is about USD13 on Amazon. I would think the circulation pump would not last as long as the drain pump, so I would replace both. However, check the pump type based on the exact type of washing machine.
By the way, this method takes a very very long time to fix...
All you need to do is just tilt the washing machine to rest on a wall.
Put blocks on both sides of the washing machine
Undo two screws replace the front panel for the drain pump, unscrew the pump, Force the drain hose through the unit.
Then you can go underneath, disconnect all hoses.
Then disconnect the electrical connectors.
Free the unit from the holder.
Unscrew the plastic body from the pump...
Get your new pump and reverse steps
Thank you for your comments.
As the comments so far have shown, there are at least two versions of this type. The one I repaired has a completely sealed plastic sheet covering the bottom, which also holds the shocks and is very difficult to remove. So it is easier to replace the pump module from the front on this type.
There is the other version, according to the commenters, where the bottom of the washer is open and the pump can be easily replaced from there.
Excellent speed on the video 🤙
Can the hoses on the top of the tub that you unclogged cause the drain pump to fail? I’ve changed the drain pump twice in about three years and it looks like it needs to be changed again. I’ve never checked those hoses.
I don't think so. The drain pump is independent from these hoses. One of them connects to the circulating pump, other to the steam generator. I think, if there are too many solid contaminants in the water (sand) the drain pump will wear out sooner.
Just a question - couldnt one just place the Maschine on its side and remove the pump from the bottom, not removing all top and front?! It somehow looks really excessive...
If I remember well, with this washing machine, the lower plastic cover not only completely covers the bottom of the lower part, but also holds the three shock absorbers. And they certainly tense when you turn the device on its side.
@@mcelec7603 my LG is definitely "hollow" at the bottom. But it is nice note about springs. They definitely wouldn't like if the machine will be turned..
@@TushhsuT Someone else has already written that his also has a hole at the bottom. Apparently there are as many varieties of this type as there are spaceships in Star Wars. 😀The exact type anyway: F1480 QDS
Hi again.
I have just changed the pump, gently placing the machine on it's side. I don't have a bottom plate and everything below was very well accessible. Then contacts should be pulled out and three screws removed. (Of course before all of it one should pull the cable out and drain all the water).
The biggest challenge was to Place a new pump in its place - o-ring did not wanted to go inside. White pipe's lubricant helped. Screws back, cable in - test wash is running. Otherwise - quite straightforward replacement.
Oh.. have taken a look on your video once again. My machine has only one pump behind, not two at the sides.
@@TushhsuT Hi! Nice! Thank you for the feedback.
Way too much work. You can get to the pump thru the bottom of the washer. Tip the washer on it's side. Pump comes out in 6 minutes.
How easy is it to remove the bottom plastic cover? This lower housing holds the shock absorbers and the Aquastop detector switch at this washing machine.
I used a vacuum to suck clean the v tubes, nasty smell afterwards
How do you unclip the bottom front cover? I tried with a flat screw driver as you seem to be doing but it feels like it's going to break.
A close up footage from removing of panel.
ruclips.net/video/WkKuvtsHt00/видео.html
Update: The phenomemon was same: ruclips.net/video/rD3ordyICI4/видео.html
Very good video. Is this what you do in Asia? VN ?
I'll be watching this again in couple of days!!! Thanks!!!!!!!!! 💯💯💯
I'am glad it helped.
@@mcelec7603I have a front loader that's a few years old now and it got thrown out because of a failing pump I took that pump apart greased the bearing with marine grade grease haven't had trouble since
F this machine
Great video thanks very much for the repair guid! (regarding video itself, Music is a bit loud.)
Thank you for the feedback.
A clip of the actual noise would be helpful. The music isn't.
Sorry.
Thank you so much for great video! Repaired.
Thank you.
I miss the strange sound of the pump in this video. I want to match it with the sound of my pump, so I can determine if it's broken.
For the rest nice video.
You are right. Unfortunately I forgot to record the sound. The phenomenon was same: ruclips.net/video/rD3ordyICI4/видео.html
Do you have a video of the sound it was making prior to the replacement?
I forgot to record the sound, but fortunately I found it in another video: ruclips.net/video/rD3ordyICI4/видео.html
Thanks
I like the music. What band is it?
I completed the description with the titles and artists of the music because I forgot and RUclips didn't add it either.
Can you tell me the spare part No. ?Thank you.
The original pump part No is 5859EN1006C, the compatible ASKOLL is 4681EA2001E or EAU61383505. They are 220-240V, 30W, with three-screw fixing and with rotor side connectors.
Thanks a million for this video，Using your video as a guide made this a pretty easy fix.
Thanks!
How do i Find just the grey pump?
I installed Askoll drain pumps. The position of electrical terminals is important. At this washer both pumps have the terminals in rotor side. Another important thing is the mains voltage. This grey pump is for 220/240V machines.
www.ebay.com/itm/ASKOLL-WATER-DRAIN-PUMP-MOTOR-FOR-to-fit-LG-WASHING-MACHINES-AP1020-/131992060310
So he finds a clogged filter and instead of testing wether clearing cleaning fixes the problem he proceeds to replace the pump?
A few years earlier I had replaced the entire pump unit because the circulation pump was very rattled. At that time I cleaned everything before replacing the pump, but unfortunately the noise did not go away. Now I bought the pump in advance ( the aftermarket one is not a big expense and now I see that it has a longer life) because I decided in advance that I will replace it. By the way the nozzle clogging surprised me too. Maybe if the filter and nozzle are cleaned in time the pump will last longer.
I have the Samsung eco bubble 2018. My pump makes a noise when draining only so should I only charge the drain pump or do both
Cost of one pump is about USD13 on Amazon. I would think the circulation pump would not last as long as the drain pump, so I would replace both. However, check the pump type based on the exact type of washing machine.