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For Real by Nettson, RedBird & Clara Ayless | / nettson soundcloud.com/nettson/nettson-redbird-clara-ayless-for-real-official www.free-stock-music.com/nettson-redbird-clara-ayless-for-real.html

This is an interesting question. I got this HDD without knowing its history. The voltage peak is probable, because a zener diode or suppressor diode is usually connected in parallel to the supply line as protection, so an overcurrent can develop that melts the fuse. In the video, I changed the fuse of the 5V circuit. According to my measurements, there is a normal current of around 0.3A, which is not very significant.

Hello, this video only shows the operation of the eprom programmer, the L373 board is only needed for the demonstration. In the case of the L1373 board, the procedures (washing cycles, rinsing, spinning, steaming, pumping) are programmed into the microcontroller, the main program runs in the 24c16 eeprom, and error codes, currently running programs, cycle counters and assignment of user interface buttons are saved here, yet . The main program determines how the procedures should follow each other and how long they should last, this part is also protected with cheksum to prevent dangerous operation from occurring. Usually, the content of the 24cXX eeprom is damaged, because it is sensitive enough to ensure that the supply voltage does not fluctuate during writing. Most of the strange motherboard errors in washing machines can be traced back to damage to the eeprom content, so copying the working eeprom content of a washing machine of the same type to the eeprom of the non-working machine can provide a solution. I used a 10kOhm resistor, this is approx. It corresponds to NTC with a temperature of 30 degrees. If you are interested in the construction of the L1373 board in more detail, or the service documentation for this washing machine, you can find them here. elektrotanya.com/whirlpool_awo_l1373_domino_control_panel_sch.pdf/download.html#dl elektrotanya.com/whirlpool_aquasteam_1400.pdf/download.html One more important thing, the main switch on the pen must be turned off to read and write the eeprom, otherwise the 5V power supply connected to the eeprom will also start the microcontroller and then the data flow between the microcontroller and the eeprom will start, making it impossible to read the data.

Why do you blame Democrats for the degrading of New York?

Yes, the pump may also be faulty, but it is worth checking whether the filter and the nozzle are not clogged. The circulating pump usually runs during rinsing, even when the drum movement stops for a moment, you can observe whether you can hear its whirring sound.

Yes indeed

Maybe a lot of ink has already dried on the outer surface of the head. You should try to wash the wiper with distilled water (this is the black rubber strip at the parking position of the head that pulls the dirt off the head) and drop a few drops of water on the cup (this is the oval part that is pressed on the head when the head is parked and ends up here also the ink for head cleaning). If that doesn't help either, there are some screws under the dumpers that fasten the head to the head carriage. They must be unscrewed, and the head can be carefully turned inwards so that the dried paint can be wiped off with the distilled water ear cleaner or the printhead cleaning stick. Unfortunately, I haven't made a video about it yet.

@@mcelec7603 thank you

Thank you. "Fortunately" I had an used axle, because my torque sensor had also broken before. So I didn't even try to just buy only an axle. However, I am still using the same axle that I turned myself: 4:44. As a previous commenter mentioned, it is worth putting a bearing on the right side instead of the rubber seal. Their size is exactly the same.

@@mcelec7603 У меня тоже сломался датчик крутящего момента, горит ошибка 06....Заказал в Китае, ждать 1 месяц😊

Since the cells in these batteries are both in series and in parallel (the structure of the four-cell battery is 2S2P, i.e. 2-2 cells in parallel, then the stacks are connected in series), it is worth using only identical cells. The bigger problem is that the BMS (Battery Management System) stores its own measurement results from the cells in a non-volatile memory, and even if we change cells, if we cannot reset the BMS, it will use the data of the old, bad cells. also for newly installed ones. That is, if a cell is destroyed, it is not enough to replace it, the BMS must also be reset. That is a separate science.

Same here

In the case of industrial electronics, it is worth repairing power supplies and PCBs costing thousands of euros, and spending time reverse engineering the operation. I repaired this power supply as a hobby, its owner has already bought another one, because she was told in the service center that it cannot be repaired. It's not a cheap power supply though, it costs at least 400 euros. I couldn't find any documentation for it at all, so it is much slower to diagnose the device. So the question is not so much whether it can be fixed, but how long it takes and whether it is worth spending a lot of time with it.

Hello, I used CRC Oxid clean and protect PRO spray, but you can use any contact cleaner which proper for potentiometer. It is important that there is some lubricant in it so that the zoom lever rotates more easily and the contacts do not wear out. CHE1559 Contact PR, www.reddit.com/r/amateurradio/comments/t7rfdg/best_spray_contact_cleaner_for_potentiometers/

@@fabrytomas Thanks!

Me too

@@dablet From pswpower.com or from aliexpress.com. The blue gear is different for TSDZ2B, because there is not freewheel inside.

Thank you. I could have made the video a bit more detailed. I put the original gear back in, I thought the grease on it was enough. Plastics are porous and retain the lubricant quite well, which they slowly release. The new gears should be lubricated with some kind of synthetic-based grease. As e.g. the MOLYKOTE EM-50L. It can be seen in my hand at 6:41, the splined cylinder itself is the metal hub in the blue gear, the freewheel is hanging out of it to the left. I roughened the inside of this splined hub with center punch and glued the freehub with Loctite 638 (hub glue). For gluing, superglue would probably do, but you have to work very quickly with that, otherwise the two things will stick together in the wrong position. The splined hub then needs to be inserted into the blue gear so that the freehub works correctly. There is also a mark on the freewheel, before disassembly you have to note which side of the gear the mark was visible on.

How can I get in contact with you? I have 2 questions about this mid drive motor, the guy who sold it to me, told me to wait until the blue gear is really damaged, but I guess I can fix it before that... It's just the noise, too loud, the motor. It's running almost at the same power like before( 2 years ago, 20kg less) ​@@mcelec7603