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Hi, I assume that there may be a crack in your torque sensor. This will change the characteristics of the measurement, and the sensor will measure more torque for the same pedal force. Above a given initial value, the assistance will no longer start. I have already had three torque sensor bodies crack in 19000 km, and I have also experienced the phenomenon you described. Over time, the assistance stopped working for me. Why does the engine power seem lower at 60 rpm? It could be an illusion that the engine power is higher at startup, but it is natural that these permanent magnet synchronous motors have a steep torque curve as the rpm increases. I also experienced that when the torque sensor body cracks, the engine power can fluctuate. After one turn on, I could only go at a maximum of 30 km/h, then I turned the motor off and back on, and then at 35 with the same energy.

Hello, do you have TSDZ8 motor? I don't know if the torque sensor is the same as in the TSDZ2. In any case, check that if you press the pedal with force, the REi value goes up to about 160-170. It usually goes up to this value for TSDZ2. The Re calibration value does not usually increase without a reason. Cracks in the torque sensor body, problems around the coils, can cause it. So, recalibration is useful if the torque sensor is mechanically OK, the three small springs are in place under the stator, and the stator and rotor coils can get close enough to each other. If you have a REi value of 160-170 when you press the pedal hard, it is worth increasing the assistance value( "Power setting (A)") in the normal service menu. wooshbikes.co.uk/manuals/VLCD5.pdf

@@mcelec7603 Yes, it's a TSDZ8. When i press the pedal in force, the value goes up 170. The motor have 75 kms, and i've encountered this since i have it. The power setting is set to 16A. I will try to increase it, 20A in a first time.

@@mcelec7603 Yes it's a TSDZ8 and it has 75 kms. Since i've it, it's like that : good power but only with a hard job from me (i'm cyclist since several years) The value goes up to 170 when i press on the pedal. The power setting was 16A. I'll try to increase it to 20A and make a test. Can you explain me the meaning of REi value ? what the effect of increasing or decreasing it ?

​@@mcelec7603 Yes it's a TSDZ8, who have only 75 kms. Since it's new, i encountered the problem of the lack of power. The REi value goes up 170 when i press on the pedal. Tomorow i'll make a test with the power setting at 20A (by default it is set to 16A). Can you explain me the meaning of this RE value and the effect of increasing or decreasing these value ?

Sorry for the multiples answers.

The situation has not changed, although there have been several software updates to the phone since then. It is assumed that the fast charging management IC (PCA9468) on the motherboard has failed, but I don't have the means to replace a tiny BGA on such a dense PCB. If you are interested in the topic, you can find a service manual for the S21 phone here: phonelumi.com/samsung-galaxy-s21-5g-sm-g991b-schematics/

Yes, closer fitting bearings would be nice, but unfortunately the original axle is undersized. In any case, by placing two bearings at the two ends of the shaft in place of the sealing ring, the bending moment generated at the groove of circlip is significantly reduced. The really critical place is the circlip groove, inherently a material stress accumulator due to faulty machining, and the reduction in cross-section significantly reduces the strength of the shaft. I guess the reason why everything is loose is because the torque sensor is quite sensitive to shocks and forces. I recently bought a new torque sensor, there is some kind of powder metallurgy around the coil, which of course already shows signs of cracking.

Thank you! As you described, there are two issues with the heating system. The temperature of the incoming air is set by another flap and motor, the "Air mix servo dumper" shown at 12:14. This drive has a similar structure to the "Air damp servo drive" that I take apart at 13:44 and it usually has the same problem, i.e. the grease hardens in it has contacts error. To fix the temperature control, this servo drive should be replaced or cleaned. The other problem is that the mode change doesn't work properly, it's the same as what happened to my friend's car and what the video is talking about. Be careful, the servo drives are not identical, their order numbers are also different. A potentiometer rotates in the air mix servo, which can also be cleaned with a potentiometer cleaning and lubricating spray. Lubrication is also important here so that it does not wear.

⁠thank you very much for the video and input. Much appreciated. I’ve been looking for videos like this but couldn’t find much till I ran into yours and it is very helpful. Thanks for the contribution

@@mcelec7603by the way. What type of cleaning spray or lubricant did you use?

@@ken-niffk5213 I usually use contact cleaner (Würth or CRC) or if the dirt stronger then WD40 for cleaning. Probably the best solution would be a professional potentiometer cleaner and lubricant, in my workshop a fine instrument oil was the best option for lubrication. Unfortunately, WD40 dries out quickly, so it is not good to use it for the long term.

Some photos from the air mix servo dumper condition. ruclips.net/video/HO2LlP27CiQ/видео.html

Sometimes it takes me several tries to get into service mode.

Thanks. Unfortunately I don't know the Prius automatic AC to this depth. In addition, the operating algorithm of the AC is usually different in almost every type of car. I took on the job in the video for a friend of mine because he complained that none of the garages wanted to help him. They all sent him away saying it was a very, very complicated job. I don't think so much. There's just a lot of manual work, but I wouldn't call it difficult. While I was at it, I replaced some capacitors in the instrument cluster, because the display had gone dark in the cold. That wasn't difficult either, but unfortunately I didn't take a video of that.

Yes, I like it, because very portable, easy to handle, quite accurate too, the battery last long. One thing, the voltage measurement is inaccurate if the measured value is too small compared to the measurement limit.

Yes and No 🤷‍♂️

If I remember well, the shell is same at both modell.

@@mcelec7603 thank you so much

Thanks, I will try it and report back.

Vous avez tout à fait raison. J'ai parcouru 19 000 km sur ma propre moto et elle rugit si fort que les gens font attention au son. J'ai décidé que lorsque j'atteindrai 20 000 km, je ne la reconstruirai pas (je suppose que tous les engrenages sont usés) et que j'essaierai avec un moteur Toseven. Disponible depuis peu ici : www.pswpower.com/?DIST=Q05GGw%3D%3D

Thanks.

Well..there are No medical advancements In fact there are no advancements at all... We heading to a doom

Tragic

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This is an interesting question. I got this HDD without knowing its history. The voltage peak is probable, because a zener diode or suppressor diode is usually connected in parallel to the supply line as protection, so an overcurrent can develop that melts the fuse. In the video, I changed the fuse of the 5V circuit. According to my measurements, there is a normal current of around 0.3A, which is not very significant.

Hello, this video only shows the operation of the eprom programmer, the L373 board is only needed for the demonstration. In the case of the L1373 board, the procedures (washing cycles, rinsing, spinning, steaming, pumping) are programmed into the microcontroller, the main program runs in the 24c16 eeprom, and error codes, currently running programs, cycle counters and assignment of user interface buttons are saved here, yet . The main program determines how the procedures should follow each other and how long they should last, this part is also protected with cheksum to prevent dangerous operation from occurring. Usually, the content of the 24cXX eeprom is damaged, because it is sensitive enough to ensure that the supply voltage does not fluctuate during writing. Most of the strange motherboard errors in washing machines can be traced back to damage to the eeprom content, so copying the working eeprom content of a washing machine of the same type to the eeprom of the non-working machine can provide a solution. I used a 10kOhm resistor, this is approx. It corresponds to NTC with a temperature of 30 degrees. If you are interested in the construction of the L1373 board in more detail, or the service documentation for this washing machine, you can find them here. elektrotanya.com/whirlpool_awo_l1373_domino_control_panel_sch.pdf/download.html#dl elektrotanya.com/whirlpool_aquasteam_1400.pdf/download.html One more important thing, the main switch on the pen must be turned off to read and write the eeprom, otherwise the 5V power supply connected to the eeprom will also start the microcontroller and then the data flow between the microcontroller and the eeprom will start, making it impossible to read the data.

Yes, the pump may also be faulty, but it is worth checking whether the filter and the nozzle are not clogged. The circulating pump usually runs during rinsing, even when the drum movement stops for a moment, you can observe whether you can hear its whirring sound.

Yes indeed