HOLLEY carburetor part 3 what a real 3310 looks like disassembly and INFO

[@TomzTrainzandAccessories]

I bought this 3310-1 brand new 37 years ago. I will never go to another carburetor. This has been a perfect carburetor for my 1966 Plymouth Satellite. It has a 383ci that’s .060 over with 12.5:1 compression TRW pistons, Direct Connection Purple Shaft with 509 lift intake and exhaust, and 292 duration. The intake manifold is an Edelbrock Torker, Direct Connection Electronic Ignition with mechanical advance, Accel Super Coil, and Blackjack headers. This carburetor in conjunction with these components has hooked up the perfect street machine for me all these years. It’s an oldie but goodie, but you can’t beat it. You asked a question about what the 12,13 meant in the numerical listing sheet. What this means, is that it utilizes 2 Power Valves. Most carburetors don’t, but this is no ordinary carburetor. This is like you said, a High Performance carburetor built for a big block 396. Out of the box, the Primary power valve is a 10.5, and the Secondary power valve is an 8.5. Now depending upon your specific manifold vacuum pressure, you would probably have to change those power valves. I personally utilize those size power valves for mine still. The carburetor also came with Primary jets of 72, and the Secondary jets of 76 out of the box as well. You have a super carburetor there. There’s nothing like it on the market today. I’ve rebuilt mine a few times over the years, and every time I rebuild it, reminds me how reliable this carburetor has been for me and the performance it provides. I wish you many years of good luck with it.

[@jeeptk]

I have 3310-1 that I took off a 67 Chevelle many moons ago. Date code 0043. At 1 time it had a choke stove on it by the witness marks. It looks identical to the carb you took apart in the video down to the vacuum ports. Duel metering blocks. No GM part number. After sitting 20 plus years it fired right up on my race car. Rear float was stuck for a moment a few minor adjustments and it works great. It will be on a much milder 350 in a few weeks. Good video by the way.

[@craiganderson3170]

I have been running a 3310-1 (222) with no choke on my (stroked 400) 487ci GTO for years. In one of your videos you point out that the choke is vacuum operated. Since I had never run a choke I did not know it needed the vacuum port blocked off. In tuning my carb for drag racing I had to turn the idle adjustment screws out to about 4 turns out, run a 45 squirter and larger jets to compensate for the vacuum leak I did not know about. The car runs in the 11.90's anyway. But thanks for the education. I am currently putting the choke back on and retiring the car to grocery getter status. That is why I am watching videos.

[@juiced71]

12/13 inches of vacuum usually it's like a 5.5/6.5 etc
Depends what your engine vacuum is in gear that carb must have been on an engine making good vacuum..
I ran the 3310 and it worked very well ... I replaced the rear with meter plate with a metering block . And the quick change spring kit . Only issue I ever had was the brass float got a pin hole in it and sunk and opened the needle and seat flooding it out ..
Setting the floats turn the bowl upside down and put a #2 pencil and bring it down till it just kisses it you will be very close 👍🏻
I seen a vid on you tube where the guy grabbed an old pot poured pine sole in it and boiled the carb and came out nice
Nice job on the carb

[@bretflickinger1868]

I had a 3310-1 given to me, and it used to be on a 71 Torino that was drag raced back in the day, I have the Torino as well. But my 3310-1 has manual choke and manual secondary's. I'll have to take it apart and see if it has correct parts. Thanks for the info, very informative.

[@chriscraft77022]

what are you gonna put it on?

[@jackflash538]

That List - 3310 veh # 3878261-EH was/is a special carb. This carb was meant to originally be bolted onto the GM intake manifold # 3866963 with the slightly milled divider seperating the upper/lower planes(runners). If you look down the passenger side primary venturi you will see a tab on the outboard wall of the booter venturi barrel located @ the 7:30 position on the clock. The carb pad on the # 3866963 intake manifold is biased forwards a tad bit of centered between the aft & bow intake ports in an attempt to equalize the aft & bow air/fuel mixture. Unfortunately the slightly milled divider in the plenum area creates a strong vacuum between the two plenum areas (one plenum robs the other on the intake stroke) & this tab on the outbord wall of the booster barrel wall creates a directional bias of air/fuel flow to cylinder #3 which runs lean using intake manifold #3866963 with a carburetor without this tab. Likewise there is a tab on the outside wall of the drivers side primary booster venturi barrel located @ 6:00 on the clock. This tab does the same thing as the other tab does but biases air/fuel to cylinder # 6 which will also run lean on GM manifold # 3866963 without this tab. I used it successfully on my 427 though, & it consistently beat the tri-powers ET I formely had on it(factory) by abour 2.5 tenths of a second

[@ronhodgkinson7683]

Great info

[@fredymracialmedina7513]

Eres el mejor

[@davidgoodwin658]

I could not get my vacuum secondary to work even with a new diaphragm. Had to take the cover off and give it a quick sanding so it was perfectly flat. Now it will hold vacuum.

[@stuartwall8212]

I just got one of these....3310-1. Its torn down and almost all clean. I noticed that 2 of my base screws were hollow....the 2 that go in the vacuum runner. There was also a pin that fit in one of the base vacuum passages to block it? Trying to figure it all out before re-assembly. Nice vid. gonna watch it at least a couple times. Thank-you.

[@chriscraft77022]

I have a video where I put it on the car and it started right up and is still on there to this day part 6 or 7

[@69shovlhed89]

oddly enough, both the -1 and -2 versions do have the same body castings. but for the throttle plate there seems to be 2 different castings which were interchangeable.

[@chriscraft77022]

I don’t know everything about these but the throttle plates were most likely for drum brake cars and don’t have a big vacuum port .. and then one does.. for the brake booster.. let me know what you think.,

[@mrjaydlyon]

Thanks for this video! I have a 3310-4 similar this, with the heat riser choke. My problem is that the fast idle cam lever on mine (seen at 8:17) is incorrect. If you aren't using the one in the video, I would love to buy it from you. I can't seem to find the right one anywhere. (wasn't sure if you replaced yours when you changed the choke)

[@chriscraft77022]

i dont run chokes.. text me 713-962-0568

[@ramirodiaz4545]

I just purchased a 3310 with no - # & the GM part # on top, date coded 084. If that's of any intrest to you...

[@billywilliams4780]

3310-4 1067 what do you know about this carburetor

[@chriscraft77022]

look on my channel.. i do a rebuild on one... i dont remember the title but it will be like, part 1 or part2..

[@karlmawby2921]

So my Holly number is a 3310-5, what's it for????

[@numbnutz9398]

Sure that came out of a running car. It was in the trunk. Sure as hell wasn't mounted on the manifold.

[@chriscraft77022]

it was on a running car 20 years ago

[@numbnutz9398]

@@chriscraft77022 Ha! That sounds about right😃

[@super63strat]

I saw a 67 chevelle with fuel dispersion tabs on front boosters.... I offered the owner three bills but he has a sentamental ...attachment...375 horse car was sold in 76 for ,. Sigh .....200 bucks .What is fair offer ?

[@chriscraft77022]

$300 is a rebuilt ready to go price.. if it’s old and needs to be rebuilt maybe $150 max
I got all of mine for $50-$90 on eBay

[@rfrafaelrpm]

shhhhhhhooooooooowwwwwwwwwww

[@karlmawby2921]

So my Holly number is a 3310-5, what's it for????

[@chriscraft77022]

watch my part 2 That’s the same one..

[@karlmawby2921]

@@chriscraft77022 thank you Sir