Holley 750 cfm 4160 (3310-4) Disassembling for cleaning. Part # 1
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- Disassembling the Holley 750 cfm vacuum secondaries 4160 / 3310-4 750 cfm carburetor for cleaning. Note: Make sure that you use WD-40 on all the bolt holes when you assemble the carb and it will come apart a lot easier without corrosion on the threads. I will be posting the assembly video as soon as the parts get here. If you liked this video please hit the like and subscribe button so you don't miss the assembly part #2 video. Thanks!
I just followed this video step by step and took my carb apart right along with you. It was perfect! Saturday night I’ll follow part two and get it back together. Thank you very much.
Thank you!
Good luck!
@@ronniehenson4122 Thank you! It all went together fine and seems to be operating perfectly. Thanks for these videos.
Got DAM!
That was the most detailed tutorial on disassemble & cleaning on holley 750 ever!
I appreciate your so much for this one!
I had to like & subscribe,
My car sat up in a shop for 2 years & i just got it back & started the tune up process..took my carb apart 2 clean & clearly i missed a lot more little tiny parts & now have a more clear understanding!
Thsnk u so much Sir!
You're welcome! Thank you!
Thanks for the well done and detailed video. I’ll be using its as a reference when I rebuild the Holley 750 from my 76 L48 Corvette.
You are enjoyable to watch and listen to, I've only watch the automotive video's.. no fishing in NW Kansas, just car stuff! Oh, and whatever the wife comes up with..lol
Right on!
Thanks so much for the great video. Easily understood, efficient movement through the steps, with great tips. I have rebuilt many motorcycle carbs, but never attempted the Holley off my 72 K5 Chevy Blazer until now. Wasn't bad at all, of course you're video made it a breeze. Great job sir. Appreciate you.
Steve
Glad it helped
Thank u for the video. I picked up a boat with a 460 fed by a 3310-4 and i learned so much from your videos. I didnt know i was missing filters inside the fuel inlet.
If you have any questions during your rebuild hit me up, good luck!
I love your video’s I just purchase a 650 double pumper And watching your videos I learned so much thank you Ronnie
Thank you!
You’re welcome
GREAT video Ronnie- THANK YOU! My comment is exactly like Karl's comment below me. I have this exact carb as well and this is my 1st holley rebuild so your video is allowing me to do this. Thanks for taking the time to do this for all of us! Stay Safe! Anthony
Thank you! You stay safe also!
Great Video Ronnie Your Awesome 👍🏻🏁
Thank you! :)
Sorry, right around 5:18 I called the needle valve a jet. It's called a needle valve. Oops!
Hey mate. Thanks for the vid. First time pulling one of these apart and you vid was super helpful. One thing, you didn’t show pulling the Vac Sec assembly apart.
On cleaning did you ever try white vinegar?
I purchased a full rebuild kit for my 3310-12 and will be following your part 2 in a few days when I put it back together.
Thanks again mate.
Glad it helped
Man that is perfect thanks for the video.
Glad it helped
Thanks 👍👍
Welcome 👍
@@ronniehenson4122 Great video if someone plans to rebuild their carb. I got lucky that the carb still works after leaving my tanks full of gas 14 years ago. Ruined my gas tanks completely and had to pull my 69 Chevy pickup out of mothballs to use while I fixed my 78 Chevy pickup. After seeing the gas tanks I feared what the 4160 looked like and after the rebuild on the 78 I'm tackling the carb. Accelerator pump leaks from the bottom but don't want to touch it until the 78 is running. Located the main jet removal tool! Now I'm set thanks to your great video!🤠
I remember taking a carb apart to clean it with no knowledge of how. I took the top off of it and turned it upside down to dump the fuel out and all I saw were many steel balls falling out.
This was before youtube, so I threw it in the garbage and went and bought a new carb.
Oh man, that's a real bummer! You're lucky you got RUclips now.
What's the little 2 hole plastic piece that goes on top of the metering block. Mine fell out when I was re-jetting it today. I put it back the only place it would go. But what is it for. Thanks, very informative
It keeps the fuel from sloshing back through the fuel bowl
FYI those funky headed screws are clutch head screws. Probably 5/32.
Mr Ronnie what do you use to clean the carb parts? Nicely done video. would it be helpful to add some type of lubricant or anti seize onto the screws to prevent galling?
For sure, WD 40 works great!
Great video! My blue gaskets are stuck on the carburetor. It's peals almost as if it were a piece of cardboard. How to I remove all old gaskets in order to install a new one?
Soak it in solvent over night
it is called a Clutch head screwdriver they were used in the older Chevys say 1950s
Yup! just couldn't think of it at the time of the video. Thanks!
The clutch head screwdriver is the one I forgot and now that I seen your guy's comment I now know which one I'll need. Located it at NAPA auto parts.
Hi Ronnie great video thanks. I have the exact Holley 750 3310-4 on my cuda. I admit I know very little about carbs. My question is after driving my car and I park in the garage I smell fuel shortly after its parked. I don't see any leaks anywhere, what are you thoughts? Thanks Brian
O - rings on the needle valve are bad and need to be replaced. Gas is dripping into the intake.
@@ronniehenson4122 Thanks for the fast reply Ronnie it looks to me only one O ring and one needle valve on this carb? Also looks like I can leave the carb on the car and remove the needle valve and replace the O ring pretty easy yes? Thanks Brian
I have a 3306-5 holley 750 cfm 4160 carb, are these somewhat the same?
I have a Holley 4160 "Street Avenger" 670 cfm that I will do a first-time rebuild kit on it and just wondering if I need any special tool or tools in the process?
Just the tools I'm using in the the video, are all you need.
On a mild 355, street truck, do you think it’s worth the $60-70 to convert these to a secondary metering block vs the plate? Like the older 3310-1. Thanks.
No, save your money and just use the plate.
@@ronniehenson4122 I know it’s more $ up front, but I wasn’t sure about how many times I would have to change the plate to get it tuned correctly. Wasn’t sure if it would be cheaper in the long run to convert it so I could just change jets. The secondary plates usually pretty spot on in stock configuration? Thanks for the reply!
@@ronniehenson4122 what's the purpose of the plate?
@@elinino5275 It's a block off plate for the back when a metering block is not used.
Ronnie, isn't that the carb you recently cleaned in the acid/water solution ?
Yes sir! Good eye
@@ronniehenson4122, really like your tutorials. Holley has been on all my race cars, and street cars since 1968. If I could put one on my airplane, I would.
@@normhodgkinson6965 I love Holley's too..................
I seem to be missing the thinner metal plate in the back bowl that sits on the back gasket and has the other gasket sandwiched between it and the thicker plate. Do any of these only have one plate or am I missing a part? If I look up the replacement part “secondary sealing plate” the only one that comes up says for use when there is a power valve recess on the secondary side. I do not have a power valve recess on my secondary side. Thanks for your help
You should be good to go without it.
@@ronniehenson4122 Thanks so much for letting me know. Do you skip the second gasket then and just use the blue gasket with the plate directly on it or have the smaller gasket on as well (two total gaskets between the body and the plate). That’s how it was when I took it apart but I wasn’t sure if that was from the previous owner or how it came originally. Thanks again!
@@plugger410 Just put the block off plate on the blue gasket and tighten the screws. It should work fine like that.
ive a '99 4160 with electric choke, i just do the same. I miss that thin plate too, maybe an improvement :D
I replied to your part #2 video; how did you remove the spout in order to remove the squirter?
What spout are you talking about? The squirter has a screw in the top of it, just remove it and the squirter will drop out along with the needle valve.
@@ronniehenson4122 thanks for replying. On my 4 barrel carb it looks like an upside U. There's two; one from the front bowl and one for the rear bowl. I believe it's the part that pours fuel into the carburetor?
@@48macho82 Sounds like you have a marine carburetor and those spouts are pressed in and will need to be pulled out as you rotate them back and forth.
I apologize I didn't specify that it was in fact a marine carburetor. It's a Holley carb on a 454. I will work to take it out as you mentioned. 👍
My 3310-6 doesn't have the metal plate on secondary side just a gasket and aluminum metering plate.Anybody seen this?
Ronnie, if I sent my 2 Holley 750s to you, could you repair like you did here and return? Off of a 32 ford highboy coup 461cc big block. Just let me know your charges. Thanks. Joe
I'm sorry Joe but, I have way too much on my plate right now.
It is not a 750, it is a 780, because the secondarys are bigger than the primarys, measure them, the double pumper is a 750 , all bores in the throttle body are the same size, not so with the 3310 ! Hope this helps. If you are making a video you need to know what you are talking about !
LOL! smh
As soon as I heard that "squeak, squeak" sound ant 20:40, I cringed. I have heard that sound a few times, and it was never a good sound. Sure enough, you had the same problems I have had after that sound. Sorry!
It's OK, that is how we learn....just make sure you spray WD-40 on all the threads before assembly next time.