Finally found the information I needed. Thankyou. Online forums always have the correct question but everyone ends up talking about their 3rd wife and I don’t learn about the issue I’m having
Hey there Mike👋, appreciate The valuable information, I am into The big semi trucks but someone call me with an issue like what you’re describing, so I appreciate your help and I am going to look into the above steps to see if I could start this gentleman‘s truck thank you very much once you, 👋👌👍✌️❤️
Good videos. Helpful. I'm pretty familiar with diesels but wiring is not my forte. I let a friend put a return Line kit on(he's a great has(car mechanic) but not diesel mechanic. Of course very simple job but turn the key on to try and start priming after a cycle no fuel was bubbling so I unplugged the fuel shutoff and tried to hear if it was working. No clicking. I literally bought the truck, drove in home very smoothly about an hour and fifteenmin. Home. He said it leaked fuel and an saw the next morning it was and coming from the passenger side rear return line so I bought a kit and had him put it on. From what am could see he did fine. Greased the ringsngs and did well. I have no idea what he did. He did look at some listings such as jumping the solenoid o we to bleed the lines etc.. .
Hey bud just watched a bunch of your videos..I found a cool old f250 for my son .It's an 85 idi 6.9..been sitting out in field for about ten years ..Guy wanted three hundred bucks and just get it outta there,was grandfather's that died doesn't really know about the truck. Anyways go over there put two new batteries start cranking and hitting it with ether and boom she fires up and we were driving it around the field runs fine idles fine four wheel hi/low everything works then my son stalled it now it won't start for shit again..We changed fuel filter and put fresh diesel..When I crack the injectors diesel comes out but can only get it to start with heavy starting fluid..When I pull off the fuel filter and fill it with diesel it will start and run fine but stalls out...I'm starting to think maybe fuel pump took a shit on us...Also burned up the starter from continually trying to crank it...anyways would taking off the filter and cranking the engine a couple of times to see if fuel comes out be a way to test fuel pump?I know it's driven off the camshaft..Just can't figure out how it started after 12 years ran and idled like a gem then boom nothing..any info would be appreciated you seem to know your way around these idi very well
I was sitting in the truck last night getting ready to leave a job she fired off perfectly and we just purring like a kitten like she always does and then all the sudden I heard a noise and the idol petered out on me. I tried to restart it but nothing happened. I thought because I was sitting on a hill maybe I wasn't getting fuel. I want to put fuel in and the filler neck was overflowing no fuel would go in the tank. I sprayed some ether in the plenum and it would not fire either. This evening I went to start it again and it acted like it wanted to fire off but a little fireball came out and a pop from the plenum. When I hit the Schrader valve on the fuel pump I just get a tiny little hiss no fuel though. I haven't undone the fuel lines from the injectors yet.
Mike your videos are very helpful. I have an 86 F250 with the 6.9 IDI with 220k on the clock. I bought the truck two months ago and it was running good for a few weeks, firing up within a few cranks, when I started getting a no-start after 3 days of it sitting. I would crank the motor over while holding shrader valve open and that would usually get it to fire. Now after sitting for a day I can't get it to fire up. Whenever I push in the valve I can hear a tiny hiss of air, and even if I crank it while holding the valve open (and fuel squirting out) it still wont fire up. Trying to avoid using ether. Truck smokes gray/white while cranking but won't fire. Anything? Just did injector repair line kit with new o-rings, caps, and lines, and it doesnt seem to help. Also bypassed fuel/water separator but it doesn't seem to help either. Have a facet fuel pump on the way. Is this an air intrusion problem or a glow plug problem? When truck was running a month ago, glow plug light was randomly turning on while driving.
@@groundtogreen1140 the flashing GP light while driving... should new GPs do the trick? Or a new controller? Was going to purchase new motorcraft plugs anyway
@@k25824 watch my glow plug video first that light shouldn't come on randomaly might have to wire in a manual switch but new motorcraft plugs certainly cant hurt
Thank you for the videos on crank no start Mike going to check them out right now and see if they save us a lot of money on this F250 97 5.7 L IDI so maybe you can tell me something it'll start with starting fluid but it still dies right away any thoughts number for Millie with diesel so I'm just kind of plugging along
Mike, I just got my first diesel ever, an international 7.3 non turbo. It has been sitting for a while with the intake filter completely removed from the throttle body or whatever it is. What should I do and look for to make sure everything is clean and ready before I try to start the truck? Looks like mice have definitely been active. The parts that are sitting in the cab are the round parts with the filter inside it, and the tube that leads to the front grill for cold air to be sucked in. The guy I got it from is more than confident it will run but I am trying to do homework and am finding no videos to even explain what the parts are that I am looking at let alone how to clean them. Everyone is more interested in mods and turbos and such which I have no interest in. Any tips would be a big help.
What I’m trying to say is the starter is working properly the teeth on the starters are good on the fly wheel that I can see it looks good so three people have told me it could be the fly wheel is worn out but it looks like perfect so I don’t understand why he does that so this angel is made by international from 1983 to 94 1/2 the motors for these trucks were made by international
Ok got one for you . I have a 93 Ford f 250 idi. Replaced control box , regulator, glow plugs , glow plug harness. Checked my fuel filter , to make sure it's full of fuel. No air in lines . Fuses are good . Crank no start Any ideas , I am scratching my head ?
Got a 94 F350 IDI. If I park it where there is potential for theft, what could I pull off so the thief wouldn't be able to get the truck started? Thanks a million. Fuel shutoff solenoid female tab - remove?
Hi my ford 1990. It grinding on fly wheel I changed the starter and it did I the same I put old one back it’s a 7.3 non turbo But the star looks nice the teeth and the fly wheel I don’t see nothing green around it but when I put a screwdriver and move the fly wheel then I’ll go inside and engage any change the motor but then when I start cranking he goes back to the grinding again
Howdy there. So just wandering if you had any advice for me. I have an 86 6.9 no turbo and I'm driving it across country. Three states in now and when I crank it up cold the engine starts but then begins to bog down like it's getting choked. Sometimes it'll shut off, but mostly just sounds like a choking engine for a minute then runs normal. I noticed a slight leak in a fuel line coming out the fuel filter. Thanks partner
I know it’s gonna sound like a dumb question but a friend of mine has a non turbo 7.3 and has fuel coming out of the lines but apparently no fuel coming out of all 8 injectors could it just be they all are bad?
What would cause a no turbo idi('90) crank but not fire? I have fuel, working glow plugs, new cables and battery, good high torque starter. But cranks and sounds like a dead battery after a bit of cranking and doesn't pop or anything? Any where to check for spark? And it won't fire off either or diesel fuel
dodgdatona make sure you have power to your fuel shut off solenoid on top of your injection pump. Double check.battery voltage and grounds these suckers need to spin over fast. Should smoke out tailpipe while cranking if fuel is getting to combustion chamber.
Its means that the Glow plugs are on if you start when it says wait to start you will splash fuel on the glow plug and the glow plugs are red hot and it will mess up the glow plugs to many bad glow plugs and you truck will be hard to start. BTW the glow plugs worm up you Cylinders so it will be easier to start this is for the older trucks though
Hi Mike, my 7.3 1991 idi truck has sat for a year or so and i cant get it to start , what things should i do ? And also thanks for taking the time to make these helpful videos and have a nice day. : )
Got a 7.3 Powerstroke & compared to the idi it’s a mess. I’ve done a lot of work on it & they’re great until you gotta change the injectors. I’d take the 7.3 idi over the Powerstroke.
Mike I need some help! I changed the fss on my idi. I mess up and didn’t put back the rubber pices on the fss bolts. I saw some smoke coming by the passenger fender. The fss and 😅 the glow plug light won’t turn on now. I changed the glow plug relay and starter relay and still no luck. Any help?
I just found your channel while I was surfing RUclips because I have a guys 85 F250 IDI 6.9 that won’t start after a few hours of shutdown. I found several of the injector fuel returns leaking at the injectors. I came up through the 80’s being the diesel tech for a Chevy/Olds dealership and the old 5.7 Olds converted Diesel engines were a pain in the a$$. Nothing but headgaskets and injector pumps. I’m wondering if these injector pumps have the same issues as the ones used in Chevys and Oldsmobiles did with the rubberized governor head attachment ring becoming brittle and breaking apart causing the timing to be all over the place and either not starting or running terribly.
Most of the time I've found they just get air bound easily. The check valve in the filter head weakens over time and allows air in via the return system causing hard starts
Edit* 6.9 had rubber compression seals on the injector to filter head return line which also caused the same issue. On all my trucks that's the first line I delete. From my research you don't need a filter return line.
@@groundtogreen1140 Someone has already deleted the return line to filter housing but they did a very poor and incomplete job replacing the return lines. I’m going to replace them all and probably the return line from the engine back to the tank. There’s no telling how old it is. It’s actually nice to work on something relatively simple for a change, at when compared to the newer trucks with all the electronic controls.
Mike Grn I had a whole 94 motor and turbo bought but the guy said he wasn't available till the weekend , so I waited and the guy sold it out from under me. it's got me so upset I just want to build my own but I'm not sure what size / trim turbo I should be running
I need help my 92 7.3 idi zf5 won’t start it stalled on me at a light i got it turned on again and made it home barely. next morning she turned on for a few seconds and died I replaced my fuel pump thinking it was that and nothing did fuel return lines and she fired up ran rough and died I have done all the tests and am now thinking it may be air in lines still or the injection pump is there a test I can do to check pressure outta the pump I’ve been watching all the videos and am still at a no start situation I have a new gear reduction starter new battery cables good batteries about a year old the pump setup itself looks like a remand pump. Thank you sir for any advise or ideas
Robert Diaz ok you need to crack all the injectors crank air out one at a time. Disconnect throttle spring and open up throttle a little manually while doing it. Be careful because it could start up while bleeding air out from the hardlines. Once started manually return throttle to it's home position
I think they sell 1/4 inch high pressure band clamps online I had to use the 7/16 ones and tighten em down really good because thats all local parts store had. ive called em high pressure bad hose clamps
Mike Grn, my 6.9 starts and runs but the minute I rev it up it does when it comes down off the rev? I'm thinking it's the lift pump(low pressure mechanical pump) but I also have an electric in line? Am I looking in the right place for the problem? Thanks, and I love your videos.
When you rev it up then lift off of it it falls down then catches itself is what you are saying? if so that's what my 12v cummins was doing that I just put a new upgraded stock style lift pump in it and did some fuel system management and that fixed the rev it up let off and it fall down almost die then come back and idle issue I also found things that was causing air leaks too so might want to get a clear hose going to your fuel filter housing and see how many air bubbles you might have.
@@nou8257 when I rev it up it dies when it comes down to idle. It can be idling fine, but when you rev it revs but when you bring it back down to idle it does. Thanks Smooth Trooper
Question i have regarding the 6.9idi is mine ran and drove last year then it just stalled out while idling. Never would hot again since, it has a new lift pump, new starter, new injectors, new lines, new glow plugs. New batteries as well i can even get er to hit off either and im not getting any fuel delivery at all. Bled it out i was told to bypass the lift pump with an electric one by a neighbor mechanic. Ima try that but she wont even hit off either. Any ideas on that one bc she was a good runner and quit without warning it has no air in the system either
my 1985 ford 6.9 diesel died electrical. starter works, engine turns, plenty of fuel. no panel lights, head lights dont work, key won't start engine, how do I find out what to do?
It's been a minute but if I remember right there's an actuator rod that can bind up in the column which engages the ignition. Ignition switch actuator rod is my best guess at the technical name but anyway take the plastic column cover off and spray white lithium grease on the rotating points working the key back and forth. For me this started my no start with key issues. As for the the headlights I haven't dealt with that issue specifically. Check your fuses and your fusible links under the hood that tie into the headlight wiring . Other than that I'd be searching the online forums for more troubleshooting. Hope ya figure it out
no_ricers allowed this is an early hypermax conventional turbo kit that was already installed when I got it but the body was slightly lifted to accommodate the down pipe and firewall pinch weld pried back to clear
So I have a 86 6.9 idi . My problem is so I can start it in the morning no problem but if I turn it off it takes 3 hours for it to start up again not sure why it will crank over but no start do you have any idea what is causing this?
you pulled the pump cover? You don't have to pull that to swap a pump it slides out the back. If you pulled that cover your gonna need a pik tool, a light and maybe a mirror to relalign the y marks on the gears
I have a 1989 Ford F350 with the 7.3 IDI motor my weight to start light does not come on and I do not hear the glow plug relay and the only way I can get it started is by using just a little bit of brake parts cleaner and this is for the first start of the day throughout the day sometimes it takes another squirt depending on how long it sits so does it need the glow plugs heated up to start even in the summer on the first time of the day I have brand new glow plugs and brand new fuel injectors
I have an 84 6.9idi stock replaced lines, glow plugs, injectors feul pump, batteries, cables. Had it running a few weeks then one day while idle it stalled out and never started again keep bleeding the system still gets air in it used to have braided hose now has rubber hoses no smoke when turnning over any ideas would be appreciated sucker about to have me push it over a cliff
Sounds like air is getting in. Plug off line from filter housing to the return caps and see after bleeding if the problem goes away. If it doesn't then I'd suspect either the olives seals in your flared supply lines at the filter housing or the fuel heater o ring those are the top culprits
I have a 91 F250 7.3. When I got it the guy had the thing rigged. Ha had wires coming from the starter solenoid . I turn egg mission on to start it then I have to touch the two wires. How do I properly wire it up to start with just the key?
hard to say without looking directly at what the po did but you want it activating with the ignition switch I'd search for a wiring diagram or maybe see if a haynes manual has the diagrams ya need
I have a 92 f350 non turbo my fuel tank get water in and I'm already clean all the lines and tank i change return lines filter and fuel pump and she just try to star i disconect the lines and looks like the injection pump is no sending fuel to the injectors
Hey Mike, not sure if your still monitoring comments but I'm in a real pickle. I'm stranded on the side of the road in a snow storm near Beaver Utah on Dec. 28 2021 with my 89 F250 7.3 IDI. About 100 miles ago the truck started surging and jerking while traveling on the interstate at around 60 mph and at roughly 2200 rpm. I stopped at a roadside big rig diesel shop and they said it was the fuel filter and so they replaced it. I drove another 60 miles and stopped to re-secure a tie-down strap on the truck and when I got back in moments later to leave it would not start. It will crank unusually fast but not start. Any ideas.....I'm about 500 miles from home out here in the middle of nowhere and no one to call as all shops withing 50 miles either direction are closed thru the holidays. I'm obviously desperate or I wouldn't be trying this.
Definitely sounds like air getting into the system or lack of fuel pressure. Most common item is air from return lines getting into fuel filter head. I plug that line off altogether on my trucks. Second most common culprit is the "olive like" square cut o rings on the flared feed lines which you can only get at a dealer although some say john deere sells an identical looking o ring. Hard to say for sure without being there but hopefully that helps. If you can pinpoint it to which one it is you can make a bandaid with standard auto store parts all the filter head fittings are standard pipe thread 1/4" npt and 1/8" I believe
Hopefully you still answer questions haha. My 89 idi will not crank when it’s hot UNLESS i press the Schrader valve on the filter housing. Think there’s air in the system or what? I appreciate your reply
Yep definitely have air coming in somewhere either from the return or supply side. Start at the most common areas and go from there. I redid my entire system when I first got my rig
It's either a fuel , air ,or timing issue. If the truck cranks strong, the timing hasn't been messed with, it has fuel, and it has air it should start. If air has gotten into the system it'll "air lock" and be very hard to start. I'd start with purging your valve at the filter housing while cranking to make sure it's straight fuel and go from there. No real easy way to diagnose some of these
Hey man so I've got fuel ip is working I've got air my truck is having problems with white smoke if I bleed the fuel lines it fires right up runs right then out of nowhere it blows white smoke then dies if I hit the gas pedal it may or may not respond if I hit it lightly it moves if I hit it hard it putts then out of nowhere gets a lot of power then back to nothing
If it's air which it sounds like you're gonna have to troubleshoot the problem points. Olive seals on fuel flare nut lines and the return system are imo the majority of common issues
I'm having a problem with my truck, under light throttle (maybe 1/4 or 3/8 petal) it will randomly rev by itself like you matted it, I'm thinking it's a injection pump but I have nothing to support my thoughts
sounds like air intrusion. I know sounds weird but when air get in the IP it can make the truck surge lika shot of boost lol. Go through my previous fuel system vids and start tracking down the entry point.
hi mike i have a 1994 f250 7.3 no turbo i think is a idi im not sure but its just like ur motor in this video well my poblem is that my truck wount start I have to use staring fluid or gasoline to fired up the motor right stay's on for couples minutes then it hears that someone is pressing the diesel pedal and shutoff . I try to fired up again but it wount start at all even if I use staring fluid or gasoline can u give me a way how to fix my truck ?.
I got a 83F 350 dually mine starts slow like 30seconds of cranking wen plugged up it about 25 seconds but wen I turn it off and back on within a min it start no fuss but average a min it take 30seconds to start back wat could be the issue I’ve replaced glo plugs and fuel water separator
Hey Mike. Just bought an 85 that someone swapped a 7.3idi into. I replaced all the glow plugs and it actually fired. But it does die after about 15-20 seconds or so, and it blows a lot of grey smoke. I replaced injection lines. Bled it. The back passenger side injector has the line that goes down the back of the motor plugged. The drivers side front injector doesn't have a line to the IP.. It just has a line from itself to the next injector. What is my problem? Do I need one of those missing lines? I'm sure I have a couple failed injectors as well. Any help would be appreciated
XxSilverBulletsxX sounds like your injectors are toast if they are spraying white and if it's missing a return line maybe losing its prime a bad ass injector cleaner that can revive them are stanadyne injector cleaner I had 4 bad injectors on my Detroit diesel my buddy told me it would clean them out with in 30 minutes of idle it pur like a kitten
I have a 87 ford f350 it has a non turbo 7.3 it was running and then shut off took it ot a shop they couldn't figure it out it wont start on starting fluid it has a new glow plug relay new starter and batteries im lost any help would be great
has to be fuel man, crack an injector line at an injector and see if it weeps fuel, then work backwards...inj pump or inj pump shutoff solenoid or power source, plugged fuel filter, lift pump on side of block inop, no fuel or tanks with less than 1/4 full (fuel pickup bad in tank)
Here's a weird problem..... 86 6.9 will start well on cold start however as soon as the engine temp goses past the C and you shut it off to got to the store or gas station etc it will take 10 to 30 secs to start sometimes a full min cranking (on off to cool starter) but yet if the engine temp is still below the C it will fire right up so it's not glow plugs.... What am I missing?
@@dieselbossbrandon if the head starts to wear out it's a pool pump replacement. But normally when they start to do that they need to set a lot longer to cool down then just a few minutes
Typically a drain down on the return side or a weak check valve in the fuel filter housing. Sometimes the installation of an electric fuel pump can also cause this as most already double as a check valve as well but the former mentioned are the most common reasons
Mike, i am having problems starting the truck when the motor is hot. Starts cold on the first crank no problem. Any thoughts? I replaced glow plugs, return lines, injectors and gp controller. When its hot my wait to start light wont come on it will crank and not start. I wait awhile and it starts after a number of cranks
Mike Grn i read in the forums that it could be the shutoff solenoid on the ip or the starter going bad. Hoping its not the ip. Was wondering if you ever encountered a similar problem
hi Mike I have my 92 7.3 idi running again I just replaced the neutral safety switch and now my gauge cluster doesn't work would you know if that could be the problem also my GP computer doesn't make the buzzing noise anymore by my glow plugs are clicking on the correct time and I tested them they are good also any advice would help thanks. Blessed
ive never ran into a non working cluster issue like that before unfortunately Im not an electrical wiz. As for the glow plug controller it doesnt buzz when operating. is it hard starting. feel free to email me at meanmikegreen@yahoo.com
Thanks for the reply I had air in the lines but it's cranking fine now I just have to switch my key on and off about 3 time and she fires right up and I'm going to check the fuses today
@@rogerbrewer8361 well if you have fuel getting to the Schrader valve that's a good sign means your lift pump is working. Take the throttle spring off open the throttle wide open then crack all of your injector lines. One at a time close them when fuel starts to come out. Be ready to put the throttle back to the normal position if it starts. If you have no fuel getting to the injectors at all it could possibly be a bad injection pump
I put an electric pump on it a few years ago, injection pump is also about 2 years old, hoping it isn't that, thanks again, i'll let you know if it works, have my fingers crossed
I loosened all of the injectors and throttle wide open and cranked it for a minute or two , no fuel coming out, did I crank it long enough ? if so what next
I put new glow plugs in new solenoid in glow plug light comes on and holes but I get a click click click click click and it's coming from the cell annoyed on the pump not on the solenoid how do I fix a door what's my problem
I had this pump rebuilt about 6 months ago and it sat for awhile now when I try to start it I get this clicking noise and I tested it and it's coming from the pump solenoids checked with a test light it's coming on and off I assume it's shutting my fuel off and that's why it don't start how do I fix it
@@fredracyzkowski9098 maybe try a different solenoid? Idk never had that happen. It should distinctively click on and off. I've heard of folks having to run a jumper wire to the battery before to test the solenoid
@@groundtogreen1140 I was wondering about taking a hot wire from the battery so it would have constant power and see if it start then it shouldn't be glow plugs it's 80° here
Hi there mike I just bought a 91 350 with 7.3 idi . I just bought it for parts. The motor doesn't turn over. The previous owner said it ran fine but he let it sit for 7 months and now it doesn't turn over. I don't know nothing about idi engines but I just want to see if I can start it just for fun. Any clue what might cause this ? How can I get it to start ?
first see if it will manually bar over when you but a socket on crank bolt if it doesn't then something's busted or broken inside if it does then watch my video and we'll go from there
@@zackscott3812 I'm sure you got it going by now but if your getting fuel and the plugs are heating up batteries are fully charged you might need to replace ground and hot wires to the batteries. If they've never been changed there nearly 40 years old
@@zackscott3812 I have a 1992 7.3 non turbo idi. I've had it since 1997 or so. I put a video on here on some problems I had in the past with the glow plug relay. I also had to replace the positive and ground wires from the batteries because it wasn't turning over strong enough. I would have the wires tested. Napa tested mine when it was determined my wires and I got them thru ROC AUTO..... Good luck and hope this helps. These are good trucks but parts do wear out.
What is the purpose of the return line from the number 1 injector back to the filter housing? Yours is deleted. Seems like it's better not being there.
tnmike55 I haven't gotten a clear concise answer but overall it is not needed the fuel pressure feed won't exceed what ip can use and if it ever did with high pressure electric pumps for example it just advances dynamic timing.
tnmike55 it has a check valve behind the barb but whenever I've had a filter housing leak it always overpowers that and sucks it into the feed for the pump
Gelano Mckain do not drive it you can burn the transmission up quick. It is in limp mode. Something isn't right. You need to get codes first before you know which direction to go. It can be as simple as your Tps out of range as well as your Nss on the driver side of your E4od trans. Or they may be bad. Without codes you don't know which direction to go. Read codes and then google. Again without codes you have no direction. Good luck!
Finally found the information I needed. Thankyou. Online forums always have the correct question but everyone ends up talking about their 3rd wife and I don’t learn about the issue I’m having
Hey there Mike👋, appreciate The valuable information, I am into The big semi trucks but someone call me with an issue like what you’re describing, so I appreciate your help and I am going to look into the above steps to see if I could start this gentleman‘s truck thank you very much once you, 👋👌👍✌️❤️
Great video Mike. I just picked up a 94 turbo IDI and I'm a diesel newbie. Your videos are helping immensely 👍🍻
Thank you!!!!! Been searching for hours and found your video. Truck started right up after checking the Schrader valve
Good videos. Helpful. I'm pretty familiar with diesels but wiring is not my forte. I let a friend put a return Line kit on(he's a great has(car mechanic) but not diesel mechanic. Of course very simple job but turn the key on to try and start priming after a cycle no fuel was bubbling so I unplugged the fuel shutoff and tried to hear if it was working. No clicking. I literally bought the truck, drove in home very smoothly about an hour and fifteenmin. Home. He said it leaked fuel and an saw the next morning it was and coming from the passenger side rear return line so I bought a kit and had him put it on. From what am could see he did fine. Greased the ringsngs and did well. I have no idea what he did. He did look at some listings such as jumping the solenoid o we to bleed the lines etc..
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Great video
Hey bud just watched a bunch of your videos..I found a cool old f250 for my son .It's an 85 idi 6.9..been sitting out in field for about ten years ..Guy wanted three hundred bucks and just get it outta there,was grandfather's that died doesn't really know about the truck.
Anyways go over there put two new batteries start cranking and hitting it with ether and boom she fires up and we were driving it around the field runs fine idles fine four wheel hi/low everything works then my son stalled it now it won't start for shit again..We changed fuel filter and put fresh diesel..When I crack the injectors diesel comes out but can only get it to start with heavy starting fluid..When I pull off the fuel filter and fill it with diesel it will start and run fine but stalls out...I'm starting to think maybe fuel pump took a shit on us...Also burned up the starter from continually trying to crank it...anyways would taking off the filter and cranking the engine a couple of times to see if fuel comes out be a way to test fuel pump?I know it's driven off the camshaft..Just can't figure out how it started after 12 years ran and idled like a gem then boom nothing..any info would be appreciated you seem to know your way around these idi very well
There is a little bleeder valve next to the fuel filter housing that you can depress and crank the engine to check for fuel at the fuel filter.
Wow,thanks! So much to learn! Should have started W/your Glow plug video first? How to find that??
Awesome video and camera operation. Kudos. Perfect. I am guessing that I test the shut off with the key on to hear the click?
I was sitting in the truck last night getting ready to leave a job she fired off perfectly and we just purring like a kitten like she always does and then all the sudden I heard a noise and the idol petered out on me. I tried to restart it but nothing happened. I thought because I was sitting on a hill maybe I wasn't getting fuel. I want to put fuel in and the filler neck was overflowing no fuel would go in the tank. I sprayed some ether in the plenum and it would not fire either. This evening I went to start it again and it acted like it wanted to fire off but a little fireball came out and a pop from the plenum. When I hit the Schrader valve on the fuel pump I just get a tiny little hiss no fuel though. I haven't undone the fuel lines from the injectors yet.
Mike your videos are very helpful. I have an 86 F250 with the 6.9 IDI with 220k on the clock. I bought the truck two months ago and it was running good for a few weeks, firing up within a few cranks, when I started getting a no-start after 3 days of it sitting. I would crank the motor over while holding shrader valve open and that would usually get it to fire. Now after sitting for a day I can't get it to fire up. Whenever I push in the valve I can hear a tiny hiss of air, and even if I crank it while holding the valve open (and fuel squirting out) it still wont fire up. Trying to avoid using ether. Truck smokes gray/white while cranking but won't fire. Anything? Just did injector repair line kit with new o-rings, caps, and lines, and it doesnt seem to help. Also bypassed fuel/water separator but it doesn't seem to help either. Have a facet fuel pump on the way. Is this an air intrusion problem or a glow plug problem? When truck was running a month ago, glow plug light was randomly turning on while driving.
sounds like a gp problem if you have smoke during the cranking which indicates fuel is in the combustion chamber
@@groundtogreen1140 the flashing GP light while driving... should new GPs do the trick? Or a new controller? Was going to purchase new motorcraft plugs anyway
@@k25824 watch my glow plug video first that light shouldn't come on randomaly might have to wire in a manual switch but new motorcraft plugs certainly cant hurt
Thank you for the videos on crank no start Mike going to check them out right now and see if they save us a lot of money on this F250 97 5.7 L IDI so maybe you can tell me something it'll start with starting fluid but it still dies right away any thoughts number for Millie with diesel so I'm just kind of plugging along
its a 1997? IDI engines were no longer produced after 1994
What is a good way to purge the fuel system after a injector nozzle replacement? I replaced all 8. Thanks Mike.
crack nuts open throttle lever crank and close as fuel comes out of each nut
Mike, I just got my first diesel ever, an international 7.3 non turbo. It has been sitting for a while with the intake filter completely removed from the throttle body or whatever it is. What should I do and look for to make sure everything is clean and ready before I try to start the truck? Looks like mice have definitely been active. The parts that are sitting in the cab are the round parts with the filter inside it, and the tube that leads to the front grill for cold air to be sucked in. The guy I got it from is more than confident it will run but I am trying to do homework and am finding no videos to even explain what the parts are that I am looking at let alone how to clean them. Everyone is more interested in mods and turbos and such which I have no interest in. Any tips would be a big help.
great video ... cheers .
What I’m trying to say is the starter is working properly the teeth on the starters are good on the fly wheel that I can see it looks good so three people have told me it could be the fly wheel is worn out but it looks like perfect so I don’t understand why he does that so this angel is made by international from 1983 to 94 1/2 the motors for these trucks were made by international
is their away to check glow plug sending unit. it would b the round plug at the rear of engine. has multiple contacts
Ok got one for you . I have a 93 Ford f 250 idi. Replaced control box , regulator, glow plugs , glow plug harness. Checked my fuel filter , to make sure it's full of fuel. No air in lines . Fuses are good . Crank no start
Any ideas , I am scratching my head ?
Got a 94 F350 IDI. If I park it where there is potential for theft, what could I pull off so the thief wouldn't be able to get the truck started? Thanks a million. Fuel shutoff solenoid female tab - remove?
Munk likes cheese just pull the fuel shutoff wire on the fuel pump off
My 1994 ford just turns over but wont crank with starting fluid at all . Any advice?
Hi my ford 1990. It grinding on fly wheel I changed the starter and it did I the same I put old one back it’s a 7.3 non turbo But the star looks nice the teeth and the fly wheel I don’t see nothing green around it but when I put a screwdriver and move the fly wheel then I’ll go inside and engage any change the motor but then when I start cranking he goes back to the grinding again
Howdy there. So just wandering if you had any advice for me. I have an 86 6.9 no turbo and I'm driving it across country. Three states in now and when I crank it up cold the engine starts but then begins to bog down like it's getting choked. Sometimes it'll shut off, but mostly just sounds like a choking engine for a minute then runs normal. I noticed a slight leak in a fuel line coming out the fuel filter. Thanks partner
Stuart Bailey yep sounds like air Id fix that leak
I have a 92 7.3 IDI can get it to run for about 30 sec. And shut off. Could use some advise
Thank you!!! So much!!!
I know it’s gonna sound like a dumb question but a friend of mine has a non turbo 7.3 and has fuel coming out of the lines but apparently no fuel coming out of all 8 injectors could it just be they all are bad?
I’m literally having this same problem
What would cause a no turbo idi('90) crank but not fire? I have fuel, working glow plugs, new cables and battery, good high torque starter. But cranks and sounds like a dead battery after a bit of cranking and doesn't pop or anything? Any where to check for spark? And it won't fire off either or diesel fuel
dodgdatona make sure you have power to your fuel shut off solenoid on top of your injection pump. Double check.battery voltage and grounds these suckers need to spin over fast. Should smoke out tailpipe while cranking if fuel is getting to combustion chamber.
dodgdatona also if recently any fuel system work has been done or air has got in system that could make for a hard start
Nice job "WAIT TO START" lol. What does "WAIT" mean?
Its means that the Glow plugs are on if you start when it says wait to start you will splash fuel on the glow plug and the glow plugs are red hot and it will mess up the glow plugs to many bad glow plugs and you truck will be hard to start. BTW the glow plugs worm up you Cylinders so it will be easier to start this is for the older trucks though
Hi Mike, my 7.3 1991 idi truck has sat for a year or so and i cant get it to start , what things should i do ? And also thanks for taking the time to make these helpful videos and have a nice day. : )
Not sure if you got it going but both batteries and cables should all be good. Make sure glow plugs are heating up, make sure you are getting fuel
Got a 7.3 Powerstroke & compared to the idi it’s a mess. I’ve done a lot of work on it & they’re great until you gotta change the injectors. I’d take the 7.3 idi over the Powerstroke.
Mike I need some help! I changed the fss on my idi. I mess up and didn’t put back the rubber pices on the fss bolts. I saw some smoke coming by the passenger fender. The fss and 😅 the glow plug light won’t turn on now. I changed the glow plug relay and starter relay and still no luck. Any help?
I just found your channel while I was surfing RUclips because I have a guys 85 F250 IDI 6.9 that won’t start after a few hours of shutdown. I found several of the injector fuel returns leaking at the injectors. I came up through the 80’s being the diesel tech for a Chevy/Olds dealership and the old 5.7 Olds converted Diesel engines were a pain in the a$$. Nothing but headgaskets and injector pumps. I’m wondering if these injector pumps have the same issues as the ones used in Chevys and Oldsmobiles did with the rubberized governor head attachment ring becoming brittle and breaking apart causing the timing to be all over the place and either not starting or running terribly.
Most of the time I've found they just get air bound easily. The check valve in the filter head weakens over time and allows air in via the return system causing hard starts
Edit* 6.9 had rubber compression seals on the injector to filter head return line which also caused the same issue. On all my trucks that's the first line I delete. From my research you don't need a filter return line.
@@groundtogreen1140
Someone has already deleted the return line to filter housing but they did a very poor and incomplete job replacing the return lines. I’m going to replace them all and probably the return line from the engine back to the tank. There’s no telling how old it is. It’s actually nice to work on something relatively simple for a change, at when compared to the newer trucks with all the electronic controls.
hey Mike, are you running any "non stock" size turbos? or any home made turbo setups?
not currently but when funds permit it I wanna stick a larger charger on one
Mike Grn I had a whole 94 motor and turbo bought but the guy said he wasn't available till the weekend , so I waited and the guy sold it out from under me. it's got me so upset I just want to build my own but I'm not sure what size / trim turbo I should be running
hi how can I contact you about the prices of the hoses you have for sale? thanks I love the vids
I need help my 92 7.3 idi zf5 won’t start it stalled on me at a light i got it turned on again and made it home barely. next morning she turned on for a few seconds and died I replaced my fuel pump thinking it was that and nothing did fuel return lines and she fired up ran rough and died I have done all the tests and am now thinking it may be air in lines still or the injection pump is there a test I can do to check pressure outta the pump I’ve been watching all the videos and am still at a no start situation I have a new gear reduction starter new battery cables good batteries about a year old the pump setup itself looks like a remand pump. Thank you sir for any advise or ideas
Robert Diaz how have you bleed out the system for air
Mike Grn
Have used shrader valve also opened up or cracked open the first injector on driver side closest to injection pump
Robert Diaz ok you need to crack all the injectors crank air out one at a time. Disconnect throttle spring and open up throttle a little manually while doing it. Be careful because it could start up while bleeding air out from the hardlines. Once started manually return throttle to it's home position
Mike Grn I will give a try sir thank you for the advise means tons to me and my family
Where can I find the fuel return clamps you have? The ones that come with the kits are junk.
I think they sell 1/4 inch high pressure band clamps online I had to use the 7/16 ones and tighten em down really good because thats all local parts store had. ive called em high pressure bad hose clamps
Mike Grn, my 6.9 starts and runs but the minute I rev it up it does when it comes down off the rev? I'm thinking it's the lift pump(low pressure mechanical pump) but I also have an electric in line? Am I looking in the right place for the problem? Thanks, and I love your videos.
When you rev it up then lift off of it it falls down then catches itself is what you are saying? if so that's what my 12v cummins was doing that I just put a new upgraded stock style lift pump in it and did some fuel system management and that fixed the rev it up let off and it fall down almost die then come back and idle issue I also found things that was causing air leaks too so might want to get a clear hose going to your fuel filter housing and see how many air bubbles you might have.
@@nou8257 when I rev it up it dies when it comes down to idle. It can be idling fine, but when you rev it revs but when you bring it back down to idle it does. Thanks Smooth Trooper
@@skipperup good luck I hope you get it fixed
I am trying to buy clutch kit for 86 f250 4×4 6.9L does anyone if clutch is 11" or 12"?
Hi, what did you use for electric lift pump?
Ty
Question i have regarding the 6.9idi is mine ran and drove last year then it just stalled out while idling. Never would hot again since, it has a new lift pump, new starter, new injectors, new lines, new glow plugs. New batteries as well i can even get er to hit off either and im not getting any fuel delivery at all. Bled it out i was told to bypass the lift pump with an electric one by a neighbor mechanic. Ima try that but she wont even hit off either. Any ideas on that one bc she was a good runner and quit without warning it has no air in the system either
Sounds like it could be a potential injection pump issue if you've already replaced all that
my 1985 ford 6.9 diesel died electrical. starter works, engine turns, plenty of fuel. no panel lights, head lights dont work, key won't start engine, how do I find out what to do?
It's been a minute but if I remember right there's an actuator rod that can bind up in the column which engages the ignition. Ignition switch actuator rod is my best guess at the technical name but anyway take the plastic column cover off and spray white lithium grease on the rotating points working the key back and forth. For me this started my no start with key issues. As for the the headlights I haven't dealt with that issue specifically. Check your fuses and your fusible links under the hood that tie into the headlight wiring . Other than that I'd be searching the online forums for more troubleshooting. Hope ya figure it out
What turbo is that. And what upgrades did you do with for the turbo install?
no_ricers allowed this is an early hypermax conventional turbo kit that was already installed when I got it but the body was slightly lifted to accommodate the down pipe and firewall pinch weld pried back to clear
So I have a 86 6.9 idi . My problem is so I can start it in the morning no problem but if I turn it off it takes 3 hours for it to start up again not sure why it will crank over but no start do you have any idea what is causing this?
possibly worn injection pump head. when it wont start pour room temp water on the pump then try n start if it does you need a rebuild or a new pump
thats funny my problem is that i cant start it in the morning but after its warmed up its no problem
How do I install? Timing marks front cover off with new pump
you pulled the pump cover? You don't have to pull that to swap a pump it slides out the back. If you pulled that cover your gonna need a pik tool, a light and maybe a mirror to relalign the y marks on the gears
I have a 1989 Ford F350 with the 7.3 IDI motor my weight to start light does not come on and I do not hear the glow plug relay and the only way I can get it started is by using just a little bit of brake parts cleaner and this is for the first start of the day throughout the day sometimes it takes another squirt depending on how long it sits so does it need the glow plugs heated up to start even in the summer on the first time of the day I have brand new glow plugs and brand new fuel injectors
Might need a new relay
@@groundtogreen1140 even with it then the summertime would it still need the glow plugs to start the motor
@@groundtogreen1140 what I need to buy the whole thing or just the controller on top
@@mollyloveday4673 you can see if you can manually jump the terminals that way it'd tell ya if the relay is toast or relay and controller
@@groundtogreen1140 how would I test it that way
I have an 84 6.9idi stock replaced lines, glow plugs, injectors feul pump, batteries, cables. Had it running a few weeks then one day while idle it stalled out and never started again keep bleeding the system still gets air in it used to have braided hose now has rubber hoses no smoke when turnning over any ideas would be appreciated sucker about to have me push it over a cliff
Sounds like air is getting in. Plug off line from filter housing to the return caps and see after bleeding if the problem goes away. If it doesn't then I'd suspect either the olives seals in your flared supply lines at the filter housing or the fuel heater o ring those are the top culprits
Why doesn’t my wait to start light and glow plug cycle lights come on?
I have a 91 F250 7.3. When I got it the guy had the thing rigged. Ha had wires coming from the starter solenoid . I turn egg mission on to start it then I have to touch the two wires. How do I properly wire it up to start with just the key?
hard to say without looking directly at what the po did but you want it activating with the ignition switch I'd search for a wiring diagram or maybe see if a haynes manual has the diagrams ya need
I have a 92 f350 non turbo my fuel tank get water in and I'm already clean all the lines and tank i change return lines filter and fuel pump and she just try to star i disconect the lines and looks like the injection pump is no sending fuel to the injectors
And idk what else check my glow plugs are good too. And doesn't click on the conector you just mentioned
Hey Mike, not sure if your still monitoring comments but I'm in a real pickle. I'm stranded on the side of the road in a snow storm near Beaver Utah on Dec. 28 2021 with my 89 F250 7.3 IDI. About 100 miles ago the truck started surging and jerking while traveling on the interstate at around 60 mph and at roughly 2200 rpm. I stopped at a roadside big rig diesel shop and they said it was the fuel filter and so they replaced it. I drove another 60 miles and stopped to re-secure a tie-down strap on the truck and when I got back in moments later to leave it would not start. It will crank unusually fast but not start. Any ideas.....I'm about 500 miles from home out here in the middle of nowhere and no one to call as all shops withing 50 miles either direction are closed thru the holidays. I'm obviously desperate or I wouldn't be trying this.
Definitely sounds like air getting into the system or lack of fuel pressure. Most common item is air from return lines getting into fuel filter head. I plug that line off altogether on my trucks. Second most common culprit is the "olive like" square cut o rings on the flared feed lines which you can only get at a dealer although some say john deere sells an identical looking o ring. Hard to say for sure without being there but hopefully that helps. If you can pinpoint it to which one it is you can make a bandaid with standard auto store parts all the filter head fittings are standard pipe thread 1/4" npt and 1/8" I believe
What's happening is as your going faster it's drawing a vacuum as it's trying to intake more fuel
Hopefully you still answer questions haha. My 89 idi will not crank when it’s hot UNLESS i press the Schrader valve on the filter housing. Think there’s air in the system or what? I appreciate your reply
Yep definitely have air coming in somewhere either from the return or supply side. Start at the most common areas and go from there. I redid my entire system when I first got my rig
@@groundtogreen1140 awesome thank you!
What are those external gauges for?
I have an older 91 Ford F350 with an idiot 7.3 non turbo diesel that won't even start with either. Do you have any suggestions on this?
It's either a fuel , air ,or timing issue. If the truck cranks strong, the timing hasn't been messed with, it has fuel, and it has air it should start. If air has gotten into the system it'll "air lock" and be very hard to start. I'd start with purging your valve at the filter housing while cranking to make sure it's straight fuel and go from there. No real easy way to diagnose some of these
Hey man so I've got fuel ip is working I've got air my truck is having problems with white smoke if I bleed the fuel lines it fires right up runs right then out of nowhere it blows white smoke then dies if I hit the gas pedal it may or may not respond if I hit it lightly it moves if I hit it hard it putts then out of nowhere gets a lot of power then back to nothing
If it's air which it sounds like you're gonna have to troubleshoot the problem points. Olive seals on fuel flare nut lines and the return system are imo the majority of common issues
I'm having a problem with my truck, under light throttle (maybe 1/4 or 3/8 petal) it will randomly rev by itself like you matted it, I'm thinking it's a injection pump but I have nothing to support my thoughts
sounds like air intrusion. I know sounds weird but when air get in the IP it can make the truck surge lika shot of boost lol. Go through my previous fuel system vids and start tracking down the entry point.
alright thanks for pointing in the right direction
@Billy D. Jacks idi engines don't have sensors
hi mike i have a 1994 f250 7.3 no turbo i think is a idi im not sure but its just like ur motor in this video well my poblem is that my truck wount start I have to use staring fluid or gasoline to fired up the motor right stay's on for couples minutes then it hears that someone is pressing the diesel pedal and shutoff . I try to fired up again but it wount start at all even if I use staring fluid or gasoline can u give me a way how to fix my truck ?.
hey Mike this is my number 4047814272 if u have a suggestions about my problem tanks.
U got air getting in fuel line somewhere
I got a 83F 350 dually mine starts slow like 30seconds of cranking wen plugged up it about 25 seconds but wen I turn it off and back on within a min it start no fuss but average a min it take 30seconds to start back wat could be the issue I’ve replaced glo plugs and fuel water separator
Zack Welch see if you are getting air out of the filter housing might have air getting in
Hey Mike. Just bought an 85 that someone swapped a 7.3idi into. I replaced all the glow plugs and it actually fired. But it does die after about 15-20 seconds or so, and it blows a lot of grey smoke. I replaced injection lines. Bled it.
The back passenger side injector has the line that goes down the back of the motor plugged. The drivers side front injector doesn't have a line to the IP.. It just has a line from itself to the next injector. What is my problem? Do I need one of those missing lines? I'm sure I have a couple failed injectors as well. Any help would be appreciated
XxSilverBulletsxX sounds like your injectors are toast if they are spraying white and if it's missing a return line maybe losing its prime a bad ass injector cleaner that can revive them are stanadyne injector cleaner I had 4 bad injectors on my Detroit diesel my buddy told me it would clean them out with in 30 minutes of idle it pur like a kitten
Yeah I just replaced all 8 injectors and the mechanical lift pump.
I have a 87 ford f350 it has a non turbo 7.3 it was running and then shut off took it ot a shop they couldn't figure it out it wont start on starting fluid it has a new glow plug relay new starter and batteries im lost any help would be great
has to be fuel man, crack an injector line at an injector and see if it weeps fuel, then work backwards...inj pump or inj pump shutoff solenoid or power source, plugged fuel filter, lift pump on side of block inop, no fuel or tanks with less than 1/4 full (fuel pickup bad in tank)
Sorry for some reason yt doesn't always notify me in a timely manner. Power to fss and air free fuel to the ip and it should pop off
How do I get all the air to be out of the filter
Bleed the filter head shrader
Here's a weird problem..... 86 6.9 will start well on cold start however as soon as the engine temp goses past the C and you shut it off to got to the store or gas station etc it will take 10 to 30 secs to start sometimes a full min cranking (on off to cool starter) but yet if the engine temp is still below the C it will fire right up so it's not glow plugs.... What am I missing?
almost wonder if the ip is starting to show signs of a hot no start
@@groundtogreen1140 how would I fix that?
@@dieselbossbrandon if the head starts to wear out it's a pool pump replacement. But normally when they start to do that they need to set a lot longer to cool down then just a few minutes
What is your electronic lift pump you use?
Facet 40222
You didn't mention losing prime how do I get that on a idi
Typically a drain down on the return side or a weak check valve in the fuel filter housing. Sometimes the installation of an electric fuel pump can also cause this as most already double as a check valve as well but the former mentioned are the most common reasons
Mike, i am having problems starting the truck when the motor is hot. Starts cold on the first crank no problem. Any thoughts? I replaced glow plugs, return lines, injectors and gp controller. When its hot my wait to start light wont come on it will crank and not start. I wait awhile and it starts after a number of cranks
I've never encountered that issue before wts light not coming on sounds like wiring to me mine engages every tine
Mike Grn i read in the forums that it could be the shutoff solenoid on the ip or the starter going bad. Hoping its not the ip. Was wondering if you ever encountered a similar problem
well if fss goes bad youll no longer hear it click when power lead pulled off and on
Mike Grn i will check that. Thanks
hi Mike I have my 92 7.3 idi running again I just replaced the neutral safety switch and now my gauge cluster doesn't work would you know if that could be the problem also my GP computer doesn't make the buzzing noise anymore by my glow plugs are clicking on the correct time and I tested them they are good also any advice would help thanks. Blessed
ive never ran into a non working cluster issue like that before unfortunately Im not an electrical wiz. As for the glow plug controller it doesnt buzz when operating. is it hard starting. feel free to email me at meanmikegreen@yahoo.com
Thanks for the reply I had air in the lines but it's cranking fine now I just have to switch my key on and off about 3 time and she fires right up and I'm going to check the fuses today
Mike Grn thanks for the reply it was a 10v fuse under dash on driver side I believe it was #17 or 18 they both a 10v, thanks again.
I have a 86 6.9. I have checked the fuel and solenoid switch and the glow plugs are working , it still will not start any further suggestions
Does it smoke while cranking out exhaust no smoke at all means your not getting fuel to the combustion.chamber
no smoke, I have fuel getting to the Schrader valve but no smoke , what next ? by the way thanks a bunch,
@@rogerbrewer8361 well if you have fuel getting to the Schrader valve that's a good sign means your lift pump is working. Take the throttle spring off open the throttle wide open then crack all of your injector lines. One at a time close them when fuel starts to come out. Be ready to put the throttle back to the normal position if it starts. If you have no fuel getting to the injectors at all it could possibly be a bad injection pump
I put an electric pump on it a few years ago, injection pump is also about 2 years old, hoping it isn't that, thanks again, i'll let you know if it works, have my fingers crossed
I loosened all of the injectors and throttle wide open and cranked it for a minute or two , no fuel coming out, did I crank it long enough ? if so what next
I put new glow plugs in new solenoid in glow plug light comes on and holes but I get a click click click click click and it's coming from the cell annoyed on the pump not on the solenoid how do I fix a door what's my problem
I had this pump rebuilt about 6 months ago and it sat for awhile now when I try to start it I get this clicking noise and I tested it and it's coming from the pump solenoids checked with a test light it's coming on and off I assume it's shutting my fuel off and that's why it don't start how do I fix it
@@fredracyzkowski9098 maybe try a different solenoid? Idk never had that happen. It should distinctively click on and off. I've heard of folks having to run a jumper wire to the battery before to test the solenoid
@@groundtogreen1140 I was wondering about taking a hot wire from the battery so it would have constant power and see if it start then it shouldn't be glow plugs it's 80° here
@@fredracyzkowski9098 yea that is another option
Hi there mike I just bought a 91 350 with 7.3 idi . I just bought it for parts. The motor doesn't turn over. The previous owner said it ran fine but he let it sit for 7 months and now it doesn't turn over. I don't know nothing about idi engines but I just want to see if I can start it just for fun. Any clue what might cause this ? How can I get it to start ?
first see if it will manually bar over when you but a socket on crank bolt if it doesn't then something's busted or broken inside if it does then watch my video and we'll go from there
Mike Grn thanks for replying. Will do tomorrow. I will let you know
Mike Grn OK motor is seized . Won't turn over
take out glow plugs put atf in holes let sit couple days and try to bar again sometimes it works
@@groundtogreen1140 7.3's are famous for cavitation, you may have water in the cylinders.
So when you say air tight I don't any gas caps and hose
Air tight as in no air is getting into the fuel system beyond any of the seals
what fuel pump do you have exactly the50 gph one?
I have two the facet 40285 on the truck shown and the facet 40222 on my other truck. I prefer the 40222 one flows a little more
If Ben Shapiro worked on old trucks...
Only way it could be more simple is if it were a dt 466/360 or 6bt 🤣
I am not getting power to my fuel shut off solenoid
Check the 20 amp fuse in the black box on the left fender well.
My 1990 7.3 turns over slow even when plugged in all warm glow plugs work and 2 new big batteries help?
have ya had your starter tested? clean your grounds, inspect your battery cables
New starter
@@zackscott3812 I'm sure you got it going by now but if your getting fuel and the plugs are heating up batteries are fully charged you might need to replace ground and hot wires to the batteries. If they've never been changed there nearly 40 years old
@@marks7352 nope still ain't got it running
@@zackscott3812 I have a 1992 7.3 non turbo idi. I've had it since 1997 or so. I put a video on here on some problems I had in the past with the glow plug relay. I also had to replace the positive and ground wires from the batteries because it wasn't turning over strong enough. I would have the wires tested. Napa tested mine when it was determined my wires and I got them thru ROC AUTO..... Good luck and hope this helps. These are good trucks but parts do wear out.
What is the purpose of the return line from the number 1 injector back to the filter housing? Yours is deleted. Seems like it's better not being there.
tnmike55 I haven't gotten a clear concise answer but overall it is not needed the fuel pressure feed won't exceed what ip can use and if it ever did with high pressure electric pumps for example it just advances dynamic timing.
Mike Grn I've read that it allows air that might be in the filter to escape via the return lines but I don't understand how.
tnmike55 it has a check valve behind the barb but whenever I've had a filter housing leak it always overpowers that and sucks it into the feed for the pump
Hey mike I got a 1994 idi my over drive light is flashing and transmission shifting hard you ever had that problem
Gelano Mckain do not drive it you can burn the transmission up quick. It is in limp mode. Something isn't right. You need to get codes first before you know which direction to go. It can be as simple as your Tps out of range as well as your Nss on the driver side of your E4od trans. Or they may be bad. Without codes you don't know which direction to go. Read codes and then google. Again without codes you have no direction. Good luck!
Thank you I will read codes tomorrow
yeah sorry just saw this unfortunately the e4od transmission is not my forte still learning myself about it
Mike Grn guess we all going learn together
Probably a bad Throttle Position Sensor. I know that can cause them to flash and shift hard.
That's not a idi motor
Pretty sure it is since I use to own the truck. 7.3 IDI with a hypermax turbo kit