Well boys it has been my experience with this 6.9, 7.3 IDI engines you are better off going to International to get parts. After all it is a Navistar engine, or as some know it by International. Ford more often than not does not have a clue. If you are hearing a clicking from the controller well lets say it is time to buy parts! Ok the first item is get 8 new glow plugs International Part # 1819649C1 (these are made in Germany), get a new controller International Part # 1811059C93. Replace glow plugs and controller at the same time. Now you can now test your old glow plugs and throw the junk ones. The reason I say replace both the glow plugs and controller at the same time a glow plug that is not up to spec will burn the relay on the controller. Don't be hasty at pitchin the controller because you can replace the relay and use this as a spare someday. The International controller (good one, no longer available has International logo on it ) Part # 1811059C92 if you have one of those I would try a new relay on it International Part # 1831646C1. If it is just the relay with points burnt you will have spare. The other thing that makes them hard starting is the cold idle solenoid (top of the pump) this advances the pump and also idles the engine up. Correct way to start a 1993 7.3IDI engine. Press throttle to the floor, turn on the switch, wait until the WAIT TO START LIGHT goes out. Turn over the engine and release the throttle when it first fires (BE QUICK) don't want to hurt the engine. Remember that when the engine is a operating temp it does not need the glow plugs. It has been my experience Ford dealers know more about F16 fighter planes! Save yourself time and just go to International for the parts for their engine. The engines I am talking about are the 7.3 IDI1992 thru early 1993. Ford, in 1993 used 3 different engines Early (7.3IDI natural aspirated, 7.3 IDI turbo, late 1993 was the first 7.3 power stroke. The part numbers I listed are for the 7.3IDI non turbo, mechanical pump. Remember if the starter can not turn the engine 700 RPM the engine will not start correctly. It may start or may not, need 700 RPM for the pump to deliver the fuel to the injectors.
Interesting! I have been driving my neighbor's truck for years and the relay has clicked all this time. It starts and runs fine - as far as I can tell. Thanks for the information.
envisionelec the relay will click after the wait to start light goes off after a few seconds. It does this to keep the glow plugs warm for the first few seconds of operation and help keep the engine running until cylinder temps come up.
As ben's reply states, it's normal. Only if you get a 6-10 second wait light before it starts clicking. The clicking called "afterglow" is supposed to keep the chamber warm to reduce smoke on a cold engine.
Lol mine clicks but the wait to start light doesn't work lol I've got new glow plug harness coming and a manual relay if the new harness doesn't fix my hard start issue in the morning afternoon when the sun hits the truck it fires right up I've already put new motocraft zd-9 pligs in it
Great video! That clicking after the normal cycle is referred to as "after glow", which is intended to maintain the temperature of the glow plug after starting for a few seconds to ensure even running when the engine is cold.
+ljetronic Yes but not that fast but yes they will continue to cycle until the engine is warmed for drivability on these older units and for emissions reasons on the newer diesels.
This is exactly, exactly, the problem with my 92/93 F-250. Same engine and I was on the point of just bypassing the relay altogether. Your video also showed misplaced wires at the relay's "wavey" thing. I can't wait to get out there and fix the truck. FYI I got the truck in a trade and wound up having to get the automatic transmission rebuilt. So as that was more than the truck was worth I didn't want to spend more megabucks fixing the glow plugs. And believe it or not I am an automobile mechanic but not a diesel one. So THANKS
Ya, This system is VERY sensitive to total resistance and load of the whole glow plug circuit.If a couple of plugs burn out, the whole sytem just cycles on and off rapidly. I only use ford glowplugs and check the resistance before installation. .4 ohms is right. If I remember right, The older system had spade type connectors and a .8 ohm resistance. They had a tendency to stay on and burn out the glow plugs. Its a good idea to change glowplugs EVERY fall in a daily use vehicle. You will never have a no start issue due to glowplugs. I keep the good old plugs and use them for a manual push button glowplug system on one of my other fords.
Something I discovered accidently while changing my glow plugs on my 93 F250 that I thought you might be interested in. When I was through and tried to start the engine it would not start. Nor would the, "wait to start", light come on. I thought the glow plug relay had consequently failed. I have a Gale Banks turbo so the relay had to be moved over near one of the very back glow plugs. What I discovered was I had failed to plug the wire onto the plug. Everything started working perfectly.
Thanks for this and your other great video. Helped me learn a little more. Father's 91 had a clicking relay for a while but just now quit altogether. While I was at it I checked GP's, all good but found a wire off. I put the western plow relay on like guys recommended for the later 7.3's. Works great starts easy again. Also put that relay on my 96. Best $30 I ever spent!
Very helpful; I have been experiencing similar issues with little resources to address a 1989. Thanks for your insights and well explained video with no "extra useless chatter" (too common with most tutorials). You might want to mention the units of resistance, I suspect "ohms". 🙂 It was excellent assistance!
Thanks so much for this, truck was great until a sudden change in the weather, I think the plugs had been bad for a long time, but of course since I live in Cali, I didn't have a problem until I went to Colorado...
The IDI has to have that module because it doesn't have an ECU like a Powerstroke does. Something has to do the thinking for that simple relay so they came up with that module. It would be nice if Ford had used actual engine temperature as the control factor instead of relying on the GP resistance, but it does work very well as long as the plugs and wiring is good.
1989 7.3 idi,,, Glow plugs, probably the issue. Thank you. Just acquired this rig, so I have a place to start.(no pun intended - LOL) I drove it home, but seems the previous owner relied on starting fluid.
It isn't a DINOSOUR !! '94 on up 7.3 diesels are FORD this is an INTERNATIONAL ENGINE. The International engine has been around forever. Resistance of the glow plugs is 1 ohm. If they test open they are shot
Thanks FordTechMakuloco. I'm having the same issue in my 93 IDI. It's nice to know what I'm getting into, before I start hunting for the problem, on my own.
VERY nice presentation! Kept things "real" (normal lighting) good advice. you made some very good points that i hadn't considerd - this is going to help me Dx my glow plugs because right now it will only start with a glug of ether even on a warm day.
Thanks, Your video has been very helpful. My 7.3 IDI is doing the only 15 seconds or less on the glow plug timer. I assumed I needed to change all of my glow plugs. At least I now know my assumption is most likely correct.
The relay is supposed to click once after the glow plugs are warm really will go off and then you start the truck if your relay clicks you have a bad connection or bad glow plug
This video really helps man thank you. i just bought a 93 f250 7.3 idi friday and saturday i had to change the fuel pump but after i did that the clicking sounds started and it didnt want to turn over but it would crank. so im going to try this and see if its my problem and i'll get back and tell you.
'89 F 250 7.3 IDI. When I bought this someone made a 2 button system. 1 for glow plugs and one for starter. Worked fine but now glow plug button doesn't seem to work. Video shows great way to check everything. Main question I have is should I leave the buttons as is or try and put it back to stock? Please, any advice is welcome.
Does the post where the glow plug wires are hooked up stay lit at all times when the truck is running or is it supposed to go off.? I know the main side stays hot at all times..
So if I heard you right, when all is working properly, it should never do the click cycling? I have an '88 7.3 IDI and I suspect the glow plug relay is what's actually bad, not the glow plugs themselves. How would we go about testing the relay itself vs the glow plugs? I've tested the plugs with the light like that before, that's pretty handy. Unfortunately I don't have the truck in my possession, but she was all mine for years in college, so I'm pretty familiar. My brother in law has it, and asked a friend of his, ford diesel mechanic, and he said he thought it was likely the relay or the starter itself. It will crank but not fire off, but if pull started it will pop off right away. Thoughts? Thanks so much for this video, these old trucks are hard to find info on! Even years 5 years ago when I was in college I took it to a Ford dealership and the basically told me they didn't want to fool with it.
I would change all glowplugs. Resistance affects the system. Personal experience has glowplugs with a 1-2 year life expentency with the automatic system. All mine are manual control now, they seem to last indefinitely. Test batteries, connections. Pull starter and get tested. You would be surprised what a fresh starter will do. My IDI diesels spin over like a gas burner.
Great Video! I would appreciate your helping me dig deeper. I have changed all glow plugs and controller with Motorcraft parts. All wires are delivering power to each plug. But the relay still does the fast clicking thing not engaging to provide constant power to the glow plugs. I attached a second ground wire to the ground to verify proper ground. I attached a second wire to the controller for the constant power to confirm adequate voltage to the controller. Im out of ideas other than attempting to trace the wiring from the starter solenoid fusible links. Would you have a wiring diagram for a 1990 f250 7.3 idi? Any additional thoughts or suggestions? Thank you.
Say Brother ' still working on my truck. Just a wiring question from your video. You cut the white wire capped it. You cut the blue wire ,capped the wire you cut. You took the Blue wire and put it where you cut the white wire on the regulator and ran a wire for the switch . Then you grounded one wire to the steering column and hooked it to the switch. Then you took the wire you added from the blue wire to the switch. I had to use a toggle switch. When I flip the switch on I don't hear that humming sound as when you are heating your glow plugs. I just hear a click and that's it. I know on this toggle switch it's hot when the key turns on so that's good. The other side of my switch is throwing sparks . The ground wire. Trying my best to understand.
I know you changed the relay but have you check the inputs and outputs on it as shown in my other video? Ford 7.3L IDI Glow Plug Relay Testing Procedure
Hey, been working on one of these for a few years, and have had nothing but headaches with this gpr unit. I have found though (not sure if this was your finding also) once all plugs were replaced and leads and grounds were found to be good the unit would bring the plugs up to temp then cycle on and off to keep them at temp until the 30 second full cycle was up. I found that if the batteries were not fully charged or if there was a bad ground the plugs would not reach proper temp and would not cycle off and on. Was this what you experienced from this unit? Thinking of just installing a push button switch in the cab like someone wrote in these comments. Cheers
I've got an 2000 F350 dually, 7.3L turbo diesel. the only way it'll start is if I pump the throttle, the motor drags like a bad battery until fuel gets down into the cylinders, then it turns over easily(well a lot better). if it's hot I have to do the same thing. even if I start it and turn it back off then try to restart, still have to pump the pedal. I've checked both fuses and they are good, fuel pump on the rail is running. I even unplugged the plug at the top of the pedal and it'll start, but only if I pump the pedal, after starting the throttle has no response. any ideas as what I could check next and if so is there a test for it? thanks for any reply.
when i power on the key the gp cycles fine but the wires smoke and the connector gets red hot. glow plugs and controller are brand new and harness is fine. what is the issue here?
I have a 94 F250 7.3 it will turn over but will not start it does the clicking noise we have replaced both batteries the fuel filter all 8 glow plugs if i take a gas rag and put over breather it will fire right up i let run for 5 minutes shut it off turn key let glow pug light go off it will fire right up what could be going on with it i am lost ?
do you have a wiring scematic for a 6.9.. my diesel seems to be back feeding into the electrical system...thats just a guess cause it makes noises in the stereo.. any suggestions would greatly be appreciated
Question I have New spark plugs yet I still have to spray starting fluid on cold start to start it up been doing it for about a year. I tested the wire and no voltage to the glow plug.. diesel mechanic in my area says it's not the relay but an air leak in the fuel system any thoughts? He said he tested the glow plugs with a light-up lead and he said they tested ok.
Make sure the fuel check valve on top of the pump is working properly. When mine wasn't seating I'd have to crank and crank till the system got fuel again
So I had this problem intermittent. I thought it may have been the glow plugs. Replaced all 8 and now it’s no longer intermittent, it actually won’t start at all now and just clicks at the controller relay
I have a 94 7.3 with an aftermarket turbo put on it. Mine is all messed up. My relay has been moved all rhe way to the passenger side wheel well. I just got the harness for it,and the glow plugs and have to dog leg the power cable from the harness about 10 inches. I have a button under my dash,when I turn the key,I hold the button and it starts clicking until simultaneously clix. Then I turn it over and it usually takes two or three Cycles to start. What should I do should I take that relay and place it back behind the turbo word originally was or leave it where it is?
Thank you for this video I was just about to go buy a relay figure I’d see if anyone else had this problem your vid showed up watched it ck my glow plugs and I got one bad
Hey what is the solenoid on the fire wall of the 1993 called I bought just a standard one from auto zone and didn't work i had to end up buying one with push button but truck still won't crank glow plugs only stay on for 1 second and truck will not crank unless you spray it with wd 40 any suggestions??
in my 93 f250 when i turn the key in on position the glow plug relay is do clicking noise. I have to cycle the glow plugs 3-4 times for start. From the fuel filter when i try start the engine is coming smoke. Also is coming smoke from the vents inside the cab. How i can fix all that hard start and smoke
Thank you for the answer. I see the smoke is coming from the top of the fuel filter from the heater plug. the smoke is come when i crank the engine. After the engine is start the smoke is stop. But maybe is the glow plugs bad as you say. tommorow i take the truck in mechanic. Now i found one mechanic work in pickup trucks. Others 3 mechanics i have ask tell me is works only in diesel big trucks
If it is 90degrees where I am, does it matter if the glow plugs are working or not? Changed fuel pump, still no fuel to injectors. Crank no start. Told to spray ether in intake. No gas to put on rag to cover intake at location.
My trucks glowplug relay will click around 22 times and not start but if i plug it in for around 20 minutes or so itll fire right up. My relay is brand new. so would my control module be bad or my glowplugs (my glowplugs havent been changed in god knows how long) also the harness is kinda chewed up from mice
Have a ford f-350 7.3 diesel 1994 , replaced starter, glow plug relay, glow plugs tested, working. clicks on start, no light comes on dash though, and does not start unless you spray starter fluid in. what should we check next.?
Great video!! I use this as a reference to working on my 94 F Super Duty with the Turbo IDI....that truck is truly a junker...gets the job done but rides and drives worse than my 77 1 ton Chevy. Is there information out there stating how much pressure a IDI can take boost wise?
Yes sir I did test them all as you showed in the video. The clicking only begins to start as soon as my wait to start light turns off. Maybe a bad connection somewhere I am thinking?
On this one it would click the whole time, when I changed all 7 of them and started the engine to warm in to get the last stuck one in it didn't click until the last part of the glow plug cycle after the lamp goes out, once I replaced the last one it never clicked anymore. A bad glow plug relay itself can click after awhile because it is failing internally and not able to hold the latching.
I've replaced the glow module, 8 new glow plugs, mine latches for 15 or 20 seconds, then starts cycling on and off. Also replaced the the connectors. Kinda at a loss wtf is going on with it. maybe got a bad oem new plug, dunno, all light a test light checking them. Possible its bad and looses continuity in the heat cycle?
help please, i did replace the 8 glow plugs an the system still not latching, I also replaced the glow plug module, still the same, checked the wires on the arness going to every glow plug and all of them are just fine, checked that glow plugs module has a good solid ground, all the replacement parts where new, all the wiring is correct, I don't know on wich other direction should i look. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I put a heavy duty solenoid on mine where it will have constant power and put a push button on my dash for the ground so I can control the time my glow plugs stay on.
My 92 7.3idi 5speed gives me problems everyday. I replaced all the glow plugs,new relay on fender, brand new glow plug relay,new battery on the left side,rebuilt injectors,new fuel filter. When i go to start it relay keeps clicking. No crank until i do it about five times if im lucky. I dont know what to do and a shop will rape me on prices. Info would help alot
the solenoid unit that is attached to the starter motor gets sticky and refuses to crank every time. I had the same issue . You can replace the whole starter or get a new solenoid ( starter mounted )
I'm at a loss, I replaced the glow plugs, the battery and the starter. However, the issue I'm having now is I have no electrical power (the gauges do not light up, no mileage shows) I get a slight ticking, the lights dim, but there is nothing, no crank, no power. I know I need new battery cables, but the terminals are on solid, they don't wiggle or move.
FordTechMakuloco Are the 1999 7.3's the same way, looking to buy a crank no start one with 190000 miles in a cube box van, I need to get more info from the seller though.
Hi, I have exactly same problem, Its 1990 Ford F350, 7.3L IDI. Replaced 7 out of 8 glowplugs. One plug is not coming out! left the old plug as it is. The problem is still there. Any thoughts ?!
I know this is old but I hope you see this, I’ve replaced the glow plugs and the module and it was working but now it’s clicking, it did this before and I was told to swap the batteries I did and it stopped but now it’s doing it again. I can’t find anything on where to look next
I am working on a 94 IDI NA. GP relay assembly does the same thing (toggles latching). Assembly is new, as are the GPs. All GPs measure .4ohm. Truck will not start, still only cranks, and GP relay assembly still toggles. I'm at a loss.
+Geriatric Ginger just had the same problem. I replaced them with 'autolite' brand glow plugs. 7 out of 8 after installation are bad. I was recommended motocraft brand.
BTW I don't use a light to test them , I use an ohm meter because I want to know how much resistance. Then when all are good. As far as the wiring harness, unplug all glow plugs, disconnect from controller, and check from the plug end of the harness to the end that connects to the controller for continuity, plus check to ground to make sure the harness is not grounded. Once you know all is good then go for a drive get the engine good and hot , then check the resistance of the plugs again, can be done with engine running. The resistance should be higher, 10 or more, because when the plugs get hotter, the resistance gets greater. Compare the plugs to each other and a plug reading less is an indication that that cylinder is burning cooler. Maybe an injector or another problem but at least it points you in a direction.
Ginger try checking the big fuses under hood next time, your problem sounds exactly like mine. replaced a 20 amp fuse cranked it over and fired right up.
Hey Kevin, what fuses are you talking about? What wires from the controller/relay do they deal with? Thanks. All my glow plugs test .4ohm, but relay immediately comes on clicking for 15 or so seconds.
One more question, does the relay and processor control the length of time the glow plugs stay on? And when the wait to start light extinguishes does that indicate that the glow plugs have turned off?
Wait to start lamp is totally independent of the glow plug system on these. The processor adjust the glow plug on time based on resistance since they are positive temperature coefficient. So as you can see the glow plugs being right is very important.
I'm working on a 93 ford diesel. it's hard to start. glow plugs and relay have been replaced. the relay clicks. could the glow plug harness be the problem? the ends have overheated. perhaps they aren't making good contact. would this make they relay think some of the plugs are bad?
+Bud Whiteman Yes the relay will act the same way and will click rapidly or not latch at all. If your tailpipe is rolling white smoke while cranking then the glow plugs are at fault.
+FordTechMakuloco i'm working on the above truck again. new glow plugs took care of the problem. i have a new issue now. engine starts and runs fine if it is started everyday, but if it sets for 3 or 4 days you have to crank it a long time before it starts. Thanks, bud
I have the same issue. I think it is a very small "O" ring in the lower part of the filter assembly. Mine has a very small leak which I believe causes fuel starvation when you try to start. I will change my filter again and replace the O ring.
I replaced all 8 glow plugs, relay, and solid state controller. Still just clicking and not heating up. I also checked the wires to each glow plug and see nothing shorting out. What else can it be?!
Did you ever find out the issue? how did you solve it? Mine's doing the same and I have a new set of glow plugs and replaced the glow plug controller and relay which I knew the controller was bad.
i couldn't hear why the relay was smoking. I am fighting a clicking relay now and smoking as well. So by replacing the glow plugs will fix the clicking issue right? i have a 90 model F250 IDI non-turbo.
Check constant power, check power from key, confirm a good ground. If all that is good, you got a defective module. I had that happen with a module I got at autozone, so wouldn't surprise me is the same happened to you.
good video. i all ready change relay , glow plugs and oil temperature sensor ,and my truck dosent work, its a f350 1999 what else can be the problem , help me please
First check fuse 30 it is a 30 Amp fuse that blows on these and takes everything out. If it is blow you need to replace your fuel heater it has rotted and is touching the bottom of the fuel bowl arching out. So your glow plug relay is working and putting out voltage as per this video testing? How about fuel pressure does the fuel pump run? ruclips.net/video/rnd8ea-QJSg/видео.html
Hey I noticed you do suspension too. Any advice on getting the snap wring back on the front of an F250? Bought the special snap ring tool and all but I am about 1/16 inch too far inboard and have found nothing to budget it from behind the knuckle. The knuckle is new to the truck to complicate this. Did I misplace the seal? on the back? Can't find any help in the manual/boards.
Getting the axle snap ring back on behind the hub and bearing? You need to seat the seal onto the shaft, then put the shaft and seal together into the axle and then seat the seal into the knuckle at a certain depth too and it will be just right then. We have a press tool from ford to set the depth perfect every time
FordTechMakuloco So you put the seal on the axle first then press it into the knuckle? Woa I think I may need to buy the Ford repair manual. I obviously screw this up. I just received 2 knew seals so will try this again over the weekend. Thanks again!
Question: I just replaced the Injection pump on mine. I also replaced all the glow plugs with Autolite plugs. Before the swap the glow plugs cycled normally. Now, even when it's cold (45 Degrees F) the plugs only cycle for about 5 seconds and it's extremely hard to stat. all the plugs pass the test light test. The only thing out of-the ordanarey is that I used a Anti seize compound on the threads. Everything on the relay is working except it cycles too soon. Any suggestions?
Well since cycle time is all based on resistance I would say there is a connection problem. What was the resistance of the plugs? I would make sure every one is fully pushed on, if they are I would disconnect all of them, and test each glow plug connector back to the relay one at a time making sure the harness isn't broken internally with an open circuit. I thought guys were having problems with the autolite plugs, I used the motorcraft plugs and had no problems.
My 1988 F250 7.3 non turbo for the past two days hasn't wanted to start. I put new glow plugs in it about a month ago and the control kicks on like normal. It has been in the 30's and I've kept it plugged in. For some reason it won't even fire and the glow plugs are heating. I'm not sure what to do.
FordTechMakuloco Yes but the "wait to start" light goes off sooner when I have the truck plugged in. Also the glow plug relay isn't connected with the ignition switch because a previous owner had a push button switch put on. I can hear the switch click on when I push the button as well and the "wait to start" doesn't come on unless I push that button. Also could it maybe be because the fuel heater in the filter housing has been taken out?
Thank you. Finally a simple answer, on a 7.3 and not a powerstroke. Finding this was like seeking the holy grail! Once again, I thank you.
Well boys it has been my experience with this 6.9, 7.3 IDI engines you are better off going to International to get parts. After all it is a Navistar engine, or as some know it by International. Ford more often than not does not have a clue. If you are hearing a clicking from the controller well lets say it is time to buy parts! Ok the first item is get 8 new glow plugs International Part # 1819649C1 (these are made in Germany), get a new controller International Part # 1811059C93. Replace glow plugs and controller at the same time. Now you can now test your old glow plugs and throw the junk ones. The reason I say replace both the glow plugs and controller at the same time a glow plug that is not up to spec will burn the relay on the controller. Don't be hasty at pitchin the controller because you can replace the relay and use this as a spare someday. The International controller (good one, no longer available has International logo on it ) Part # 1811059C92 if you have one of those I would try a new relay on it International Part # 1831646C1. If it is just the relay with points burnt you will have spare. The other thing that makes them hard starting is the cold idle solenoid (top of the pump) this advances the pump and also idles the engine up. Correct way to start a 1993 7.3IDI engine. Press throttle to the floor, turn on the switch, wait until the WAIT TO START LIGHT goes out. Turn over the engine and release the throttle when it first fires (BE QUICK) don't want to hurt the engine. Remember that when the engine is a operating temp it does not need the glow plugs. It has been my experience Ford dealers know more about F16 fighter planes! Save yourself time and just go to International for the parts for their engine. The engines I am talking about are the 7.3 IDI1992 thru early 1993. Ford, in 1993 used 3 different engines Early (7.3IDI natural aspirated, 7.3 IDI turbo, late 1993 was the first 7.3 power stroke. The part numbers I listed are for the 7.3IDI non turbo, mechanical pump. Remember if the starter can not turn the engine 700 RPM the engine will not start correctly. It may start or may not, need 700 RPM for the pump to deliver the fuel to the injectors.
Sonny630 Good info!
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2002 f250 power stroke fuse box
Sonny630 this is one of the most helpful comments I’ve seen about a idi thanks!
So I have an 89 7.3IDI NA same parts? I'm troubleshooting or will tomorrow longer start issue. Great comment to this upload!
Interesting! I have been driving my neighbor's truck for years and the relay has clicked all this time. It starts and runs fine - as far as I can tell. Thanks for the information.
envisionelec the relay will click after the wait to start light goes off after a few seconds. It does this to keep the glow plugs warm for the first few seconds of operation and help keep the engine running until cylinder temps come up.
As ben's reply states, it's normal. Only if you get a 6-10 second wait light before it starts clicking. The clicking called "afterglow" is supposed to keep the chamber warm to reduce smoke on a cold engine.
Lol mine clicks but the wait to start light doesn't work lol I've got new glow plug harness coming and a manual relay if the new harness doesn't fix my hard start issue in the morning afternoon when the sun hits the truck it fires right up I've already put new motocraft zd-9 pligs in it
Great video! That clicking after the normal cycle is referred to as "after glow", which is intended to maintain the temperature of the glow plug after starting for a few seconds to ensure even running when the engine is cold.
+ljetronic Yes but not that fast but yes they will continue to cycle until the engine is warmed for drivability on these older units and for emissions reasons on the newer diesels.
This is exactly, exactly, the problem with my 92/93 F-250. Same engine and I was on the point of just bypassing the relay altogether. Your video also showed misplaced wires at the relay's "wavey" thing. I can't wait to get out there and fix the truck. FYI I got the truck in a trade and wound up having to get the automatic transmission rebuilt. So as that was more than the truck was worth I didn't want to spend more megabucks fixing the glow plugs. And believe it or not I am an automobile mechanic but not a diesel one. So THANKS
I might have a similar issue, bought this 1989 7.3 idi rig and it could need a transmission, but first, the glow plugs. Only 80,000 miles on it.
Ya, This system is VERY sensitive to total resistance and load of the whole glow plug circuit.If a couple of plugs burn out, the whole sytem just cycles on and off rapidly. I only use ford glowplugs and check the resistance before installation. .4 ohms is right. If I remember right, The older system had spade type connectors and a .8 ohm resistance. They had a tendency to stay on and burn out the glow plugs. Its a good idea to change glowplugs EVERY fall in a daily use vehicle. You will never have a no start issue due to glowplugs. I keep the good old plugs and use them for a manual push button glowplug system on one of my other fords.
There is also a International controller for the 6.9, 7.3 IDI with a different part number, 1819649C1. This was for my 1986.
Something I discovered accidently while changing my glow plugs on my 93 F250 that I thought you might be interested in. When I was through and tried to start the engine it would not start. Nor would the, "wait to start", light come on. I thought the glow plug relay had consequently failed. I have a Gale Banks turbo so the relay had to be moved over near one of the very back glow plugs. What I discovered was I had failed to plug the wire onto the plug. Everything started working perfectly.
Just remember your meter leads could measure .4 ohms,,, always put the ends together to see what the leads measure..
I have a 1994 F350. 7.3. Very difficult to start. It was one glow plug. Thank You very much.
Thanks for this and your other great video. Helped me learn a little more. Father's 91 had a clicking relay for a while but just now quit altogether. While I was at it I checked GP's, all good but found a wire off. I put the western plow relay on like guys recommended for the later 7.3's. Works great starts easy again. Also put that relay on my 96. Best $30 I ever spent!
So the glow plug relay for the 94-97 power stroke from western plow will work as an upgrade for 7.3l idi?
Hi! I just found you channel and I just want to say that you do a very good and thorough job. All the honors to you! Best regards from Sweden
Thanks I have to be thorough working at a dealer, no messing around hehe.
Very helpful; I have been experiencing similar issues with little resources to address a 1989. Thanks for your insights and well explained video with no "extra useless chatter" (too common with most tutorials). You might want to mention the units of resistance, I suspect "ohms". 🙂 It was excellent assistance!
Thanks so much for this, truck was great until a sudden change in the weather, I think the plugs had been bad for a long time, but of course since I live in Cali, I didn't have a problem until I went to Colorado...
The IDI has to have that module because it doesn't have an ECU like a Powerstroke does. Something has to do the thinking for that simple relay so they came up with that module. It would be nice if Ford had used actual engine temperature as the control factor instead of relying on the GP resistance, but it does work very well as long as the plugs and wiring is good.
Thank you for doing a video on these old beast! It's hard to find any videos for it. Please do more!
1989 7.3 idi,,, Glow plugs, probably the issue. Thank you. Just acquired this rig, so I have a place to start.(no pun intended - LOL) I drove it home, but seems the previous owner relied on starting fluid.
It isn't a DINOSOUR !! '94 on up 7.3 diesels are FORD this is an INTERNATIONAL ENGINE. The International engine has been around forever. Resistance of the glow plugs is 1 ohm. If they test open they are shot
hey thank you for taking the time and putting this video up. i really helped me from spending a lot of money.
Thanks FordTechMakuloco. I'm having the same issue in my 93 IDI. It's nice to know what I'm getting into, before I start hunting for the problem, on my own.
VERY nice presentation! Kept things "real" (normal lighting) good advice. you made some very good points that i hadn't considerd - this is going to help me Dx my glow plugs because right now it will only start with a glug of ether even on a warm day.
I bought a 1993 f250 last weekend , I had it towed will be working on it soon . I haven't heard it run yet 😶 Wish me luck
Yeah I bought a 93 F350 a couple days ago. Don't like having to use starting fluid, glad he made this video, gave me exactly what I needed.
Thanks, Your video has been very helpful. My 7.3 IDI is doing the only 15 seconds or less on the glow plug timer. I assumed I needed to change all of my glow plugs. At least I now know my assumption is most likely correct.
Thank you! My 92 has been a puzzle but this gives me hope.
With your relay problem just install a manual switch and hold it for 30 seconds and start no problem
The relay is supposed to click once after the glow plugs are warm really will go off and then you start the truck if your relay clicks you have a bad connection or bad glow plug
This video really helps man thank you. i just bought a 93 f250 7.3 idi friday and saturday i had to change the fuel pump but after i did that the clicking sounds started and it didnt want to turn over but it would crank. so im going to try this and see if its my problem and i'll get back and tell you.
'89 F 250 7.3 IDI. When I bought this someone made a 2 button system. 1 for glow plugs and one for starter. Worked fine but now glow plug button doesn't seem to work. Video shows great way to check everything. Main question I have is should I leave the buttons as is or try and put it back to stock? Please, any advice is welcome.
Great !!! Shows wire connections to module and what they do. Great for testing glow plugs as well. Thanks & God Bless !!!
Thank you for the vid
Looks like I'm checking the glow plugs too!
I just finished the injector o rings
Now time for glow plugs!
HOW DO YOU INSTALL INJECTOR O RINGS
Great information young man . Remember with age comes wisdom and your gonna be a great mechanic good video buddy
Does the post where the glow plug wires are hooked up stay lit at all times when the truck is running or is it supposed to go off.? I know the main side stays hot at all times..
So if I heard you right, when all is working properly, it should never do the click cycling? I have an '88 7.3 IDI and I suspect the glow plug relay is what's actually bad, not the glow plugs themselves. How would we go about testing the relay itself vs the glow plugs? I've tested the plugs with the light like that before, that's pretty handy.
Unfortunately I don't have the truck in my possession, but she was all mine for years in college, so I'm pretty familiar. My brother in law has it, and asked a friend of his, ford diesel mechanic, and he said he thought it was likely the relay or the starter itself. It will crank but not fire off, but if pull started it will pop off right away. Thoughts?
Thanks so much for this video, these old trucks are hard to find info on! Even years 5 years ago when I was in college I took it to a Ford dealership and the basically told me they didn't want to fool with it.
I would change all glowplugs. Resistance affects the system. Personal experience has glowplugs with a 1-2 year life expentency with the automatic system. All mine are manual control now, they seem to last indefinitely. Test batteries, connections. Pull starter and get tested. You would be surprised what a fresh starter will do. My IDI diesels spin over like a gas burner.
Kevin Miller Oh yeah, I've witnessed that before, like a whole new truck with a new starter on it.
Kevin Miller I did this.....I have a short video on here
Can you use a regular test light to check in glowplugs?
Great Video! I would appreciate your helping me dig deeper. I have changed all glow plugs and controller with Motorcraft parts. All wires are delivering power to each plug. But the relay still does the fast clicking thing not engaging to provide constant power to the glow plugs. I attached a second ground wire to the ground to verify proper ground. I attached a second wire to the controller for the constant power to confirm adequate voltage to the controller. Im out of ideas other than attempting to trace the wiring from the starter solenoid fusible links. Would you have a wiring diagram for a 1990 f250 7.3 idi? Any additional thoughts or suggestions? Thank you.
Great vid! Curious to know what the bad glow plugs tested for resistance? Again, well done vid.
What is the PCED? Is it some kind of manual?
thanks a lot for take time and do this video.
this video help me a lot and save money
good job!
greating from Puerto Rico
*greeating
freditowolfin
thank you very much mr. that was very helpful for me I have exact same truck and it's 1990 7.3 F350 non turbo
Say Brother ' still working on my truck. Just a wiring question from your video. You cut the white wire capped it. You cut the blue wire ,capped the wire you cut. You took the Blue wire and put it where you cut the white wire on the regulator and ran a wire for the switch .
Then you grounded one wire to the steering column and hooked it to the switch. Then you took the wire you added from the blue wire to the switch.
I had to use a toggle switch. When I flip the switch on I don't hear that humming sound as when you are heating your glow plugs. I just hear a click and that's it. I know on this toggle switch it's hot when the key turns on so that's good. The other side of my switch is throwing sparks . The ground wire. Trying my best to understand.
Well I changed out the glc and glr And it is still doing it. I'm going to check my harness next like you said in the video
I know you changed the relay but have you check the inputs and outputs on it as shown in my other video? Ford 7.3L IDI Glow Plug Relay Testing Procedure
Hey, been working on one of these for a few years, and have had nothing but headaches with this gpr unit. I have found though (not sure if this was your finding also) once all plugs were replaced and leads and grounds were found to be good the unit would bring the plugs up to temp then cycle on and off to keep them at temp until the 30 second full cycle was up. I found that if the batteries were not fully charged or if there was a bad ground the plugs would not reach proper temp and would not cycle off and on. Was this what you experienced from this unit? Thinking of just installing a push button switch in the cab like someone wrote in these comments. Cheers
Unhook the yellow wire. that disconnects the resistance part and the relay will stay on for about 30 seconds.
I bought a new relay and it's still not clicking but I am getting power to relay
@@eloyjgrado8267 I’m having the same issue. Any fix for it?
I've got an 2000 F350 dually, 7.3L turbo diesel. the only way it'll start is if I pump the throttle, the motor drags like a bad battery until fuel gets down into the cylinders, then it turns over easily(well a lot better). if it's hot I have to do the same thing. even if I start it and turn it back off then try to restart, still have to pump the pedal.
I've checked both fuses and they are good, fuel pump on the rail is running. I even unplugged the plug at the top of the pedal and it'll start, but only if I pump the pedal, after starting the throttle has no response.
any ideas as what I could check next and if so is there a test for it?
thanks for any reply.
when i power on the key the gp cycles fine but the wires smoke and the connector gets red hot. glow plugs and controller are brand new and harness is fine. what is the issue here?
it also clicks on and off after the 10 second cycle. not sure what that means either.
Excellent root cause analysis!
My truck was doing exact same thing. Thank you for the education 👍
I’m having to put a “gas rag” to the intake. And starting right up. Being the fumes! So im guessing my plugs are just bad. NOT the module itself
Is the resistance of the glow plug actually 0.4 ohms taking into account test lead resistance?
Excellent video. Very thorough and informative. Thank you!
I agree.
I have a 94 F250 7.3 it will turn over but will not start it does the clicking noise we have replaced both batteries the fuel filter all 8 glow plugs if i take a gas rag and put over breather it will fire right up i let run for 5 minutes shut it off turn key let glow pug light go off it will fire right up what could be going on with it i am lost ?
Is a no-start situation the same as "doesn't start"?
do you have a wiring scematic for a 6.9.. my diesel seems to be back feeding into the electrical system...thats just a guess cause it makes noises in the stereo.. any suggestions would greatly be appreciated
Question I have New spark plugs yet I still have to spray starting fluid on cold start to start it up been doing it for about a year. I tested the wire and no voltage to the glow plug.. diesel mechanic in my area says it's not the relay but an air leak in the fuel system any thoughts? He said he tested the glow plugs with a light-up lead and he said they tested ok.
Make sure the fuel check valve on top of the pump is working properly. When mine wasn't seating I'd have to crank and crank till the system got fuel again
So I had this problem intermittent. I thought it may have been the glow plugs. Replaced all 8 and now it’s no longer intermittent, it actually won’t start at all now and just clicks at the controller relay
Hey did you ever figure it out, having the same problem.
@@GabrielCruz-gq7fz my controller wasn’t properly grounded
I have a 94 7.3 with an aftermarket turbo put on it. Mine is all messed up. My relay has been moved all rhe way to the passenger side wheel well. I just got the harness for it,and the glow plugs and have to dog leg the power cable from the harness about 10 inches. I have a button under my dash,when I turn the key,I hold the button and it starts clicking until simultaneously clix. Then I turn it over and it usually takes two or three Cycles to start. What should I do should I take that relay and place it back behind the turbo word originally was or leave it where it is?
Thank you for this video I was just about to go buy a relay figure I’d see if anyone else had this problem your vid showed up watched it ck my glow plugs and I got one bad
I needed the part on how to replace them, I’ve been all over RUclips and still can’t find how to replace glow plugs on a 1992 f250 7.3L V8
Hey what is the solenoid on the fire wall of the 1993 called I bought just a standard one from auto zone and didn't work i had to end up buying one with push button but truck still won't crank glow plugs only stay on for 1 second and truck will not crank unless you spray it with wd 40 any suggestions??
@Babylon falling mostly lol
do I actually have to touch the tip of the glow plugs or can I test the side of the glow plugs with a test light
I changed my battery cables today and it started doing the clicking you think it’s the glow plugs or just faulty connections with the cables?
Awesome. Great instructions.
94 f350 idi turbo
in my 93 f250 when i turn the key in on position the glow plug relay is do clicking noise. I have to cycle the glow plugs 3-4 times for start. From the fuel filter when i try start the engine is coming smoke. Also is coming smoke from the vents inside the cab. How i can fix all that hard start and smoke
Haralabos Lukatos It's just smoking from the partially burnt fuel, fix the glow plug issue and that will take care of the rest.
Thank you for the answer. I see the smoke is coming from the top of the fuel filter from the heater plug. the smoke is come when i crank the engine. After the engine is start the smoke is stop. But maybe is the glow plugs bad as you say. tommorow i take the truck in mechanic. Now i found one mechanic work in pickup trucks. Others 3 mechanics i have ask tell me is works only in diesel big trucks
Thanks for this, I am working on mine now and all this info is great to have.
Thanks for the quick informative video. I don't see too many this old, but I do see them on occasion. Now I know what to look for. 👍👍
If it is 90degrees where I am, does it matter if the glow plugs are working or not? Changed fuel pump, still no fuel to injectors.
Crank no start. Told to spray ether in intake. No gas to put on rag to cover intake at location.
Thank you, I just bought a 1992 idi and stranded at a gas station with this exact issue.
My trucks glowplug relay will click around 22 times and not start but if i plug it in for around 20 minutes or so itll fire right up. My relay is brand new. so would my control module be bad or my glowplugs (my glowplugs havent been changed in god knows how long) also the harness is kinda chewed up from mice
Have a ford f-350 7.3 diesel 1994 , replaced starter, glow plug relay, glow plugs tested, working.
clicks on start, no light comes on dash though, and does not start unless you spray starter fluid in.
what should we check next.?
Great video!! I use this as a reference to working on my 94 F Super Duty with the Turbo IDI....that truck is truly a junker...gets the job done but rides and drives worse than my 77 1 ton Chevy. Is there information out there stating how much pressure a IDI can take boost wise?
Yes sir I did test them all as you showed in the video. The clicking only begins to start as soon as my wait to start light turns off. Maybe a bad connection somewhere I am thinking?
On this one it would click the whole time, when I changed all 7 of them and started the engine to warm in to get the last stuck one in it didn't click until the last part of the glow plug cycle after the lamp goes out, once I replaced the last one it never clicked anymore. A bad glow plug relay itself can click after awhile because it is failing internally and not able to hold the latching.
I've replaced the glow module, 8 new glow plugs, mine latches for 15 or 20 seconds, then starts cycling on and off.
Also replaced the the connectors.
Kinda at a loss wtf is going on with it. maybe got a bad oem new plug, dunno, all light a test light checking them.
Possible its bad and looses continuity in the heat cycle?
Rock auto has new plugs and controller device. I might just order one.
help please, i did replace the 8 glow plugs an the system still not latching, I also replaced the glow plug module, still the same, checked the wires on the arness going to every glow plug and all of them are just fine, checked that glow plugs module has a good solid ground, all the replacement parts where new, all the wiring is correct, I don't know on wich other direction should i look. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Sell it
I put a heavy duty solenoid on mine where it will have constant power and put a push button on my dash for the ground so I can control the time my glow plugs stay on.
My 92 7.3idi 5speed gives me problems everyday. I replaced all the glow plugs,new relay on fender, brand new glow plug relay,new battery on the left side,rebuilt injectors,new fuel filter. When i go to start it relay keeps clicking. No crank until i do it about five times if im lucky. I dont know what to do and a shop will rape me on prices. Info would help alot
did you clean the ground cable on the engine side from battery
the solenoid unit that is attached to the starter motor gets sticky and refuses to crank every time. I had the same issue . You can replace the whole starter or get a new solenoid ( starter mounted )
I'm at a loss, I replaced the glow plugs, the battery and the starter. However, the issue I'm having now is I have no electrical power (the gauges do not light up, no mileage shows) I get a slight ticking, the lights dim, but there is nothing, no crank, no power. I know I need new battery cables, but the terminals are on solid, they don't wiggle or move.
Mine did that, had a ground wire break away from the glow plug relay, drove me nuts trying to find the problem.
I changed all my glow plugs and a new relay on a 91 7.3 IDI and the relay still clicks and no start and I am using motorcraft z-9
Did you ever figure it out?
I have a question I have 91 idi 7.3 but every time I turn the headlights the truck crank s
FordTechMakuloco
Are the 1999 7.3's the same way, looking to buy a crank no start one with 190000 miles in a cube box van, I need to get more info from the seller though.
Hi, I have exactly same problem, Its 1990 Ford F350, 7.3L IDI. Replaced 7 out of 8 glowplugs. One plug is not coming out! left the old plug as it is. The problem is still there. Any thoughts ?!
I know this is old but I hope you see this, I’ve replaced the glow plugs and the module and it was working but now it’s clicking, it did this before and I was told to swap the batteries I did and it stopped but now it’s doing it again. I can’t find anything on where to look next
I did test the glow plugs with a test light and they all lit up
I am working on a 94 IDI NA. GP relay assembly does the same thing (toggles latching). Assembly is new, as are the GPs. All GPs measure .4ohm. Truck will not start, still only cranks, and GP relay assembly still toggles. I'm at a loss.
+Geriatric Ginger just had the same problem. I replaced them with 'autolite' brand glow plugs. 7 out of 8 after installation are bad. I was recommended motocraft brand.
Amen. Same thing here, do not buy auto lite. Plus I have heard horror stories about the tips swelling and breaking off when you try to remove them.
BTW I don't use a light to test them , I use an ohm meter because I want to know how much resistance. Then when all are good. As far as the wiring harness, unplug all glow plugs, disconnect from controller, and check from the plug end of the harness to the end that connects to the controller for continuity, plus check to ground to make sure the harness is not grounded. Once you know all is good then go for a drive get the engine good and hot , then check the resistance of the plugs again, can be done with engine running. The resistance should be higher, 10 or more, because when the plugs get hotter, the resistance gets greater. Compare the plugs to each other and a plug reading less is an indication that that cylinder is burning cooler. Maybe an injector or another problem but at least it points you in a direction.
Ginger try checking the big fuses under hood next time, your problem sounds exactly like mine. replaced a 20 amp fuse cranked it over and fired right up.
Hey Kevin, what fuses are you talking about? What wires from the controller/relay do they deal with? Thanks. All my glow plugs test .4ohm, but relay immediately comes on clicking for 15 or so seconds.
Hi.
My glow plugs are all good. The wire connectors to the plugs keep going bad. Any suggestions?
replace the wires
Dieselhub sells replacement pig tail ends with new connectors for $18.00
So at .:58 i see you have a reg lead on the rear left lug. Mine a 2 yellow put together. Is that double yellow going to the right rear lug??
One more question, does the relay and processor control the length of time the glow plugs stay on? And when the wait to start light extinguishes does that indicate that the glow plugs have turned off?
Wait to start lamp is totally independent of the glow plug system on these. The processor adjust the glow plug on time based on resistance since they are positive temperature coefficient. So as you can see the glow plugs being right is very important.
I'm working on a 93 ford diesel. it's hard to start. glow plugs and relay have been replaced. the relay clicks. could the glow plug harness be the problem? the ends have overheated. perhaps they aren't making good contact. would this make they relay think some of the plugs are bad?
+Bud Whiteman Yes the relay will act the same way and will click rapidly or not latch at all. If your tailpipe is rolling white smoke while cranking then the glow plugs are at fault.
+FordTechMakuloco i'm working on the above truck again. new glow plugs took care of the problem. i have a new issue now. engine starts and runs fine if it is started everyday, but if it sets for 3 or 4 days you have to crank it a long time before it starts. Thanks, bud
I have the same issue. I think it is a very small "O" ring in the lower part of the filter assembly. Mine has a very small leak which I believe causes fuel starvation when you try to start. I will change my filter again and replace the O ring.
Do you know where the glow plug relay located on the 1997 4700 DT466E ? I am looking everywhere online. Can find little information.
I have 1991 idi glow plugs all ground out relay is working I put electric fuel pump on still crank no start. Any ideas?
my 93 f350 7.3 does that clicking too i have to put diesel in the filter to start it what can it be please help me
I replaced all 8 glow plugs, relay, and solid state controller. Still just clicking and not heating up. I also checked the wires to each glow plug and see nothing shorting out. What else can it be?!
I got the same issue, I’m a parts changer and not a mechanic at this point🥲
Get a new harness
@@tuckercole1531 any idea where to find one for a early 1994 7.3 idi? Been trying to find one online.
@@hitnrun1805 amazon believe it or not.
@@davidlugo8247 appreciate it!
I replaced the glowplug relay and the glowplugs. And i still get clicking all the time and no start
Did you ever find out the issue? how did you solve it? Mine's doing the same and I have a new set of glow plugs and replaced the glow plug controller and relay which I knew the controller was bad.
Can the 7.3 be made to run as a stand alone unit by running power to the glow plug relay and to the injected pump
Kurtis Ketchum Sure why not those old ones are very simple that is how out hummers were.
i couldn't hear why the relay was smoking. I am fighting a clicking relay now and smoking as well. So by replacing the glow plugs will fix the clicking issue right? i have a 90 model F250 IDI non-turbo.
@Babylon falling nothing yet. still working on it
What if glow plugs relay isn't clicking even though it's brand new?
Check constant power, check power from key, confirm a good ground. If all that is good, you got a defective module. I had that happen with a module I got at autozone, so wouldn't surprise me is the same happened to you.
good video. i all ready change relay , glow plugs and oil temperature sensor ,and my truck dosent work, its a f350 1999 what else can be the problem , help me please
First check fuse 30 it is a 30 Amp fuse that blows on these and takes everything out. If it is blow you need to replace your fuel heater it has rotted and is touching the bottom of the fuel bowl arching out.
So your glow plug relay is working and putting out voltage as per this video testing? How about fuel pressure does the fuel pump run?
ruclips.net/video/rnd8ea-QJSg/видео.html
Hey I noticed you do suspension too. Any advice on getting the snap wring back on the front of an F250? Bought the special snap ring tool and all but I am about 1/16 inch too far inboard and have found nothing to budget it from behind the knuckle. The knuckle is new to the truck to complicate this. Did I misplace the seal? on the back? Can't find any help in the manual/boards.
Getting the axle snap ring back on behind the hub and bearing? You need to seat the seal onto the shaft, then put the shaft and seal together into the axle and then seat the seal into the knuckle at a certain depth too and it will be just right then. We have a press tool from ford to set the depth perfect every time
FordTechMakuloco
So you put the seal on the axle first then press it into the knuckle? Woa I think I may need to buy the Ford repair manual. I obviously screw this up. I just received 2 knew seals so will try this again over the weekend.
Thanks again!
I can send you the pdf of the procedure from the workshop manual. what year?
2006 F250 4x4 SuperCab Lariat 6.0L EGR bustin' gasket splitter. I will send you a starbucks card, Traxx fuel or whatever your poison is!
send me your email to my youtube inbox and I will send out the pdf
Dealing with different pain will not turn off in run position
What about the light inside if it's not coming on help
Question: I just replaced the Injection pump on mine. I also replaced all the glow plugs with Autolite plugs. Before the swap the glow plugs cycled normally. Now, even when it's cold (45 Degrees F) the plugs only cycle for about 5 seconds and it's extremely hard to stat. all the plugs pass the test light test. The only thing out of-the ordanarey is that I used a Anti seize compound on the threads.
Everything on the relay is working except it cycles too soon.
Any suggestions?
Well since cycle time is all based on resistance I would say there is a connection problem. What was the resistance of the plugs? I would make sure every one is fully pushed on, if they are I would disconnect all of them, and test each glow plug connector back to the relay one at a time making sure the harness isn't broken internally with an open circuit. I thought guys were having problems with the autolite plugs, I used the motorcraft plugs and had no problems.
My 1988 F250 7.3 non turbo for the past two days hasn't wanted to start. I put new glow plugs in it about a month ago and the control kicks on like normal. It has been in the 30's and I've kept it plugged in. For some reason it won't even fire and the glow plugs are heating. I'm not sure what to do.
So the relay kicks in and there is voltage on the glow plug relay fat terminal for about 30 seconds cold?
FordTechMakuloco Yes but the "wait to start" light goes off sooner when I have the truck plugged in. Also the glow plug relay isn't connected with the ignition switch because a previous owner had a push button switch put on. I can hear the switch click on when I push the button as well and the "wait to start" doesn't come on unless I push that button. Also could it maybe be because the fuel heater in the filter housing has been taken out?
Been away, any luck with this? Have you check the fuel filter for gelling?