One of my nieces recently mentioned that she was interested in learning some basic survival skills. I recommended your channel, along with Wild Woman Bushcraft, to impress upon her that survival isn't just a "guy thing". You really have one of the best channels I've seen, because you cover various aspects of survival-- urban, wilderness, bushcraft, prepping, gardening, etc.
The LMF II was designed for downed aircrew to be able to get through the fuselage of an aircraft like a downed chopper, where there may be live wires. Not connecting the hammer through to the tang is for electrical insulation. keep in mind also, in such a situation, someone is on the way to rescue or recover the crew. it doesn't need to last "forever"
In an urban situation you may find live wires when you're cutting buildings. not an issue batoning wood in the forest. I keep one in my emergency box in my truck. it's not my favorite knife but it's really good
@@johnwilliamwaterhouse8597 I think a military tactical knife can also be used to cut wood. It's just not as good as bushcraft knives for these tasks that's it.
@@barbar7746 A lmf2 can do it. Some light/medium batonning is fine. Not very good at carving feather sticks because you would normally use the part of the knife close to the handle and on the lmf2 it's serrated. It can do a ton of things and is very allround but keep in mind it's electrically insulated and not full tang. And I love it but not as a edc. Go shopping at the supermarket and I will be wearing red dots and when I look up, there's cops with tasers telling me to get on the floor. Can't do that here.
@@Mart687 It'll do feather sticks pretty easy and better than a plain edge. Just need to know how to use it. Instead of cutting down on the wood, put the knife in a log and draw the wood against the serrations, makes fluff like no other my friend. I learned this from Blue Mountain Bushcraft and Survival.
I've used the Strongarm as my mid-sized knife for all sorts of activities around the campsite and while hiking about. Like any tool, it has a purpose and may not do it all but it has worked great for the majority of activities. I'm sure most of your readers pack/carry multiple knives (use the right tool for the task at hand - not everything is solved by using a hammer). Having a good small folder or multi-tool on the small end, the Strongarm as the workhorse and a good machete on the big end will get you through most anything you need.
Lily, the LMF infantry knife was designed specifically for helicopter pilots, so they could break out of the helicopter in an emergency. You are right, this knife doesn’t have a complete tang all the way to The back. The reason this knife doesn’t have a continuous tang is to isolate electrically your hand from the knife, in case the pilot had to cut cables, they would not be electrocuted.
I have a couple of the Gerber LMF2s and they are hands down my favorite knives I've had them for about 10 or so years now I wouldn't trade them for any other knife.
I just picked up an LMF II myself. It is robust and well designed. For defense, processing wood and other camp tasks, it would be excellent. I wouldn’t abuse a knife the way she did especially in a survival situation.
Which one is your favorite? The Prodigy, Strongarm or LMFII? Gerber LMF: amzn.to/3utdVmB Gerber Prodigy: amzn.to/3F9zzAZ Gerber Strongarm: amzn.to/3s232rd This is not a sponsored review. I purchased the knives myself and I am not affiliated with Gerber. If you do buy the knives via my amazon links however I will earn a small commission which is enabling me to buy more knives for knife reviews. Thanks!
I'm thinking about getting the strong arm without the serrated edge for a smaller EDC, but would like to purchase one of your APO1-S knives for a EDC, Bushcraft and survival knife. I had no idea the one was not a full tang! WOW 😳! I really appreciate your efforts to show the differences in construction of each. Thank you.👍👍
I have had an LMF2 for about 5 or so years now and I have to say it's an awesome knife yes it was designed for pilots but in a car wreck or road accident it would still be beneficial to have such a large pommel also in urban survival great for harvesting wire etc from a house if you are unsure of the status of wiring.
thank you for that video, Lilly. I bought the prodigy last year because it was much cheaper than the other two, and am glad I did since the higher priced knives do not seem any better. Survival Lilly
I shaved down (~ 1/4 inch, 6mm) the upper guard on my Prodigy from Walmart (no serrations) to make it comfortable to reach my thumb over to the spine. It's just a solid piece of plastic, so it is easy to shave and nothing falls apart or leaves any sharp edges. It still locks in the sheath really well.
BY FAR, Your best video to date !! This was just so informative and interesting, especially seeing what extremes the knives could take and then their construction ..... would love to see more Urban Survival knife vids
I have had the LMF for over 10 years!👍Great survival knife. It will do all the heavy work. I do have other, and smaller knives for finer work. The Gerber LMF is a beast! My son has one, he also has the prodigy. Great knives!👍
Lilly, it looks to me that the LMFII could be used as a spear point with or without the handle. Without the handle it appears that is could be slid down in to a split handle and lashed in. Not sure but that sounds interesting to me. Particularly if the handle were damaged. Great video as always thanks for saving us the money used in testing. Best wishes.
The lmf2 is designed to be used as a spear. Notice it's got 3 holes in the handle and the other knives don't. So you can lash it to a stick to make a spear.
One tough gal with knives. My prodegy was too thick for general cutting. Too short for batoning. I had a terrible time trying to reprofile to a longer 17° edge. So thick. I retired it for emergency off grid truck knife because it will not rust by my water system. I have several ka-bars now, and fell in love with ka-bar M1 navy for meat,cheese and vegi cutting! I just refinished a Joker a'guila 1.4116 stainless. Smoothed it for comfort. 4 inch and thick full flat grind. 45.00 usd. Garden to kitchen wonder. Olive wood is the most beautiful ever with satin sanding and boiled linseed oil.rubbed in by hand!
Thank you for the review and the test of those knives and i´m not a big fan of partial serrated knives i really don´t like it at all i prefer a plain edge instead. Great video and thank you for sharing much appreciated.
Thank you for that video, Lilly. I bought the prodigy last year because it was much cheaper than the other two, and am glad I did since the higher priced knives do not seem any better.
Again, total destruction, Lilly!!! Very interesting to watch, thank you for this video. I STILL trust your opinions about these knives and thanks for adding to this video the information you researched about the Gerber LMF knife. I too will be unlikely to find myself in a CRASHED HELOCOPTER needing to cut threw electrical wires!! Lol. Great video, Lilly!
Great Video! Now i know why the end of my LMF was always moving around... I thougt it was damaged. Thanks. LMF was one of my first knifes. Still like it but serrations are not my first choice in bushcrafting. LMF is a good part of my GHB.
i have had the lmf2 for about 12 yrs now and i stand by it 100 percent the two extra holes to the top of the handle also allow to use paracord to fix the jnife to a stick in order to make a spear, and the sheath has a built in sharpener
I have the Strong Arm and the Prodigy, both are non-serrated, which I prefer... I really like them both but haven’t used either in a SURVIVAL situation yet....
Very good and educational video Lilly. I appreciate you cutting these open for a while I debated on which to purchase. I knew that the LMF did not have a full length tang/handle for the reasons mentioned in your vid. You simplified my choice thank you 😊 the for sharing 👍
You should change your gloves. You’re turning the handles purple lol. Good reviews! But you missed a lot of detail on the strongarm sheath. You can do way more with it than just that nylon belt loop.
I have the Prodigy, it will baton with the best of them and can also carve. Gerber and Buck both do a great job with 420HC. A great value for the money. It pairs nicely with my small scandi....Principle.
Great review. I feel that the infantry knife with its gap between the hammer and the tang is a bad design as well. How much electrical isolation could it possibly provide with power lines or high current battery cables? The handle would most likely melt away and separate or simply arc through or across the user's sweaty hand. Thanks.
If you want something for your car, I'd check out the Oerla olhk-044. It's Chinese made but it's similar to the Strongarm and only $45 on Amazon. It's 420C with a kydex or plastic sheath. It's just like the Strongarm was price wise in 2015 when people were popularizing it back then. Maybe you can test the oerla olhk-044 for strength and durability.
I have never seen anyone cut the handles off a knife to see how it was put together. But, after watching your video I am going to pick up a Gerber strongarm for the car. Thank you for all your efforts. The videos and the effort, materials and imagination have certainly been inspirational to me, and, I believe, to many others.
I love my lmf 2, and my boker vox rold. Also love my bk9, and Condor parang. I also have the cold steel spetznaz shovel and a Husqvarna hatchet and a cold steel trail boss axe and several other knives and tools and hatchets!!! Got a few mora's including some of the bushcraft and the cheapies. I am covered for nearly any purpose I could need.
Fwiw, the strongarm and prodigy have the exact same blade. Only the grips are a little different (strongarm is a little fatter) and their sheaths are quite different. Both sheaths are very good.
I carry the LMFII, Schrade SCAX5 tactical axe and a Lennox tri-fold saw that takes reciprocating saw blades, that way I can cut through all kinds of material. When I go into our main city I am travelling underground in Subway's basements of buildings Etc. I would rather have the insulated handle because if there is an earthquake or blackout I may find myself touching things which could be electrified. Also I do not intend to put this much destruction on my knife when I have a tactical axe so I'm not worry about breaking it. By the way I would never loan you a knife or any of my tools. You're probably very very nice person but you beat those knives to death, ha. Hi from Canada. One last thing the LMFll has a flat spot on the handle for hammering nails.
I have the Strongarm with a plain edge (no serrations) and I think it's a good knife but I don't really like the feel of the handle so it mostly sits in my bag as a spare.
I personally think the Prodigy is more comfortable than the StrongArm,I have both but I never use either..I think the S35VN ESEE 3 is a far better knife..I learned a long time ago most of these big thick bladed knives aren’t for me unless it’s a big chopper like the ESEE Junglas,OKC RTAK2,TOPS Storm Vector,etc.I like a fairly thin blade with a full flat,Scandi,convex grind or a high saber grind because they do a far better job performing most knife tasks than these 1/4” thick slabs of steel.I don’t mind a fairly thick blade if it’s also a good and wide blade that isn’t ridiculously thick behind the edge
@@garrettferrell6821 If you want to see a thick knife, take a look at a Kukri. I have one that's almost a half inch think. It takes a very good edge but who knows what kind of steel it is, probably a leaf spring. I actually like it for working in my woods but it's kind of a pain to carry on a belt, it's more like a short sword than a knife.
Hey Lilly I carry a gerber BG, grew attached to it's multi functional usage. My gerber has the hammer. Carry a buck to though for back up. I like havin gerber serrations available 👍. Tya my friend♥️👍👍
Hi Lilly! Love your videos! I pulled out my smooth edge Gerber Strongarm knife. You need to snap in the top part of the handle next to the hammer to limit all of that movement. Remind me not to let you test out my knives. LOL.
the gerber strong arm webbing is designed to be worn in the the hip/thigh, whose lower part of the sheath is strapped to the thigh, hence the movement. the strong arm sheath’s strap could be removed and attached to MOLLE straps in bags, rigs and plate carriers such as bags, backpacks, thigh rigs and plate carriers. also, the gerber strong arm sheath can be worn in a horizontal position in the belt. which makes the strong arm a very versatile carry knife. the LMFhas holes to tie it into a spear if needed…
To me, urban survival is basically protecting yourself in a fight. I wouldn't choose any of these. My preference is a thin blade and handle, primarily a dagger, with the handle wrapped in elasticated sticking plaster bandage, to avoid fingerprints
I watch your videos and get a lot out of them especially your prepping...I was wondering if you could make more of them. With the way of the world 🌎 is today...thanks and keep up the good work 💪
This is my first time making a comment. I've watched your videos for year's now. I have enjoyed them all. Thank you for another excellent video. I enjoy knife collecting, though not a knife snob. The best knife is the one you have on you. I have both the Strong-arm and Prodigy. Neither knife has ever let me down. I have taken them with me on horseback rides. They fit great in the saddle bags. I've used them as camp knives, tack fixing knives, horse hoof cleaning knives and even (Don't tell Gerber 😉) used them to pry fences when fixing them. I hope I get a Lilly heart for my comment🤠.
After seeing all these knives I would choose a knife you didn’t review. I like the APO better because it would be easier to maintain in a situation where it’s used on a regular and possibly extended basis in any setting. I say this as someone who has experience with the LMF 2 and the APO. You did a good job designing the APO and if you’re concerned about electricity you can wear gloves or the handle can be wrapped with something nonconductive.
If you convex the edge, then they do much better at wood processing. You don't need to change the edge angle, just blend the edge to the grind angle. My approach was to bring the edge (non-serrated only) down to the guard since I'm not really into stabbing people, then I convex the edge over that last 1/4 inch (6mm) or so and leave a final angle of 20 to 25 degrees per side.
You ahould try the KABAR. Realky any of them, but my favorite is the BK2. Its a HEAVY knife. Thick. Antirust coating. 5in blade. I also like th mk1. Simple design. Simple knife. Same quality. Ive used my bk2 as a hammer, to make food, to process wood, and everything in between. It has lived muktiole tumbles down rivers, hikes up mountains, and even been accidentaly thrown in a fire. After 4 years of bitter work, it has maintain a sharp edge with good care of it. It has been my favorite knife ive ever bought. I just feel good walking into the woods with it.
A few years ago I was looking for a replacement for a knife that I bought from a buddy's brother because after I bought it and started using it it seems like really cheap steel and checked out several knives. I ended up going with the Gerber Prodigy for the following reasons. It seemed to be better made than some of the more expensive options. It is made in the USA. I prefer the sheath it comes with. Unlike several of the other options the one that I bought does not have the serrations which suck in a real survival situation. And it is cheap enough that I am not going to care if it gets much damage because I am rough on knives that I carry for this type of use. The only complaint that I really have is that the handle is too small for my hands. I have longer hands than the average person my height so I do not hold that against Gerber. Keep in mind that my opinion is based on my experience over the past almost 40 years and may not be the same as someone else.
Very good vid. presenting the knives' internals. You did a great job assessing the built quality of all three of them. It's a pity somewhat you didn't x-ray them not wasting three, or at least two excellent knives;) but then again you wouldn't get to know the built quality inside. Anyways, thanks for the work you put in presenting all the specs for the viewers and reviewing the knives. Take care!
Even better would be a good knife paired with a good compact folding saw,like the Silky Saw PocketBoy..one could pair a Mora Companion with a Silky Saw PocketBoy and it would be less weight than most survival knives and would be far more efficient
I love my Strongarm, it is awesome and stays in the car. To big to carry around and I don't like the sheath, it has a button on the back that snaps off when i sit in a vehicle,and i can lose it if i don't check it, often. Although the Gerber Principle is a really good knife for EDC carry and I love it, it goes everywhere with me (that doesn't have metal detectors that is). But work and around the house and stores, wherever I go it goes with me. I highly recommend the Principle for EDC. Maybe you should look into that one now.
I would like to see your test the Bear Grylls Gerber knife. Very similar to the ones you just tested. They're orange and gray. I like your testing videos.
I agree a full tang blade is a much better design. You shouldn't be using one of these for working around electrical devices. I really like how you did a destructive physical analysis (DPA). Very Insightful. Thanks!!!
If a knife survives your test it's a good knife you beat the crap out of them knives lol I know for sure you'll give the best knife review 😉 great video thank you.
Just commenting to improve your algorithm. The Strongarm is probably the best of the three, even though that carbide sharpener on the other one is pretty much designed for use after your steel bar test🤭
The strongarm was never meant to be the "best" knife for anything. It's prime appeal is that it is an affordable "jack-of-all-trades" that is exceptionally rugged. It is a knife one carries if you can only have one knife with you and have no idea what you're going to be encountering. As well, if you somehow damage or lose it, your wallet won't be screaming in agony. That is why it has been a popular with soldiers going on deployment.
Thx for sharing a bit or realistic observation wisdom. I quit buying super expensive knives years ago. The first time I ever lost a Benchmade EDC that I paid $175 for I quickly switched to $60 CRKT knives, and from there, switched over to even cheaper brands like Schrade, and Smith & Wesson EDC knives, on sale, for $25 and under. Along with the occasional kershaw. I use them like tools, like I would a screwdriver, or a pair of pliers, and I don't have to worry about losing them, or damaging them, and they do exactly what I need them to do with no fuss and just the occasional sharpening here and there. I usually carry two. One sharp, and one duller that I use for utility stuff, like scraping, and scratching, and prying. Occasionally I'll snap the tip off one since they are mostly stainless, probably something like 8CR13MOV or equivalent. But in general you learn their weaknesses, and make them work for you. And they are cheap. And even disposable if needed. I've had to abandon them at airports, I've had to abandon them in alleys outside of bars that wouldn't allow me in with a knife, when I was unable to return to retrieve them. A knife is just a tool. And they don't have to be the absolute best to service needs. There's an old saying, that only a rich man can afford to buy cheap tools. But I would say only a rich man can afford to buy expensive knives. You can buy 5 or 10 cheaper knives for the price of one sometimes. And that's a hell of a value. Now, don't get me wrong, I don't buy the cheapest knives. And I'm pretty particular. But if you choose right, and you know the qualities that you're looking for, you can certainly find affordable, high quality knives that will last much of a lifetime without breaking the bank. Especially if you know their limits, and don't abuse them. All that said, I do own some high-quality, expensive survival knives. But I didn't pay a lot for them. And some of them now are quite valuable. So, if you have an understanding of quality (and qualities), and value, and you find and purchase really good, well-designed knives (this is key), at really good prices, and hang on to them for 20 or 30 years, you might just find that you have some very valuable items tucked away in a drawer some place at some point. The best knives of today will someday go out of production, and be highly desired in the future by those who are familiar with them.
Your comment is totally on-point. I believe folks who buy expensive things, be it knives, boots, guns, watches, are "enthusiasts" who collect these items for the personal satisfaction of owning something unique, rather than for any functional utility. There is some truth in the old adage that "you get what you pay for..." in that the higher price often (but not always) gets you more durability, better craftsmanship, quality of materials, etc...but beyond a certain point, a person is just paying for status and bragging rights. Like yourself, if I need to use or wear something day in and day out on the job, I always buy the item that meets my functional needs at the lowest possible price.
Hmmm, so change the knife's name from Prodigy to Strongarm. Give it a slightly different handle and, you can charge more money...? Love my Prodigy. I've had it for years. It's worth has gone WAY BEYOND it's price! Great review btw!!!
This comment will be easy. I don't even have to watch this because I watched it yesterday. Serrations are stupid because they're weak and don't hold up to heavy cutting and use up half of the blade. I'd like to see you use the TRC Apocalypse knife to put it through some actual bushcraft use.
Still like the K-Bar , in any CQB condition... the thing everyone seems to forget think that buying a knife , you magically know how to use it... not only the skill but the determination to defend yourself with the knife and beyond defense, be able to disable, perhaps permanently an attacker.
So I have the Prodigy in a tanto blade . But for my " Urban" kit I actually use a 2 knife system. I have the Boker GITFO for the dirty business and I carry the Lil Davlin also by Boker. Beefy lil guy love them both.
This is the best review of these knives I've ever seen.
I trust my life to the Prodigy.
Way to go, Lily!!
The Prodigy is $60 US dollars at Walmart.
One of my nieces recently mentioned that she was interested in learning some basic survival skills. I recommended your channel, along with Wild Woman Bushcraft, to impress upon her that survival isn't just a "guy thing". You really have one of the best channels I've seen, because you cover various aspects of survival-- urban, wilderness, bushcraft, prepping, gardening, etc.
Ms Survival Lilly is all-Round Cowgirl.
The LMF II was designed for downed aircrew to be able to get through the fuselage of an aircraft like a downed chopper, where there may be live wires. Not connecting the hammer through to the tang is for electrical insulation.
keep in mind also, in such a situation, someone is on the way to rescue or recover the crew. it doesn't need to last "forever"
Dude that is ok. I myself look for sturdier knives. So the electrical gap is something I do t need.
In an urban situation you may find live wires when you're cutting buildings. not an issue batoning wood in the forest.
I keep one in my emergency box in my truck. it's not my favorite knife but it's really good
@@johnwilliamwaterhouse8597 I think a military tactical knife can also be used to cut wood. It's just not as good as bushcraft knives for these tasks that's it.
@@barbar7746 A lmf2 can do it. Some light/medium batonning is fine. Not very good at carving feather sticks because you would normally use the part of the knife close to the handle and on the lmf2 it's serrated. It can do a ton of things and is very allround but keep in mind it's electrically insulated and not full tang. And I love it but not as a edc. Go shopping at the supermarket and I will be wearing red dots and when I look up, there's cops with tasers telling me to get on the floor. Can't do that here.
@@Mart687
It'll do feather sticks pretty easy and better than a plain edge. Just need to know how to use it. Instead of cutting down on the wood, put the knife in a log and draw the wood against the serrations, makes fluff like no other my friend. I learned this from Blue Mountain Bushcraft and Survival.
FYI, the non-serrated Prodigy is back in stock at BladeHQ and on sale for $34.99 as of this post August 24, 2023
I've used the Strongarm as my mid-sized knife for all sorts of activities around the campsite and while hiking about. Like any tool, it has a purpose and may not do it all but it has worked great for the majority of activities. I'm sure most of your readers pack/carry multiple knives (use the right tool for the task at hand - not everything is solved by using a hammer). Having a good small folder or multi-tool on the small end, the Strongarm as the workhorse and a good machete on the big end will get you through most anything you need.
Lily, the LMF infantry knife was designed specifically for helicopter pilots, so they could break out of the helicopter in an emergency. You are right, this knife doesn’t have a complete tang all the way to The back. The reason this knife doesn’t have a continuous tang is to isolate electrically your hand from the knife, in case the pilot had to cut cables, they would not be electrocuted.
Made for the whole Air Force , not just helicopter pilots
Same reason the Strongarm was produced was to cut open a helicopter.
They also make them without serrations. I have the Strongarm with the straight blade.
I have a couple of the Gerber LMF2s and they are hands down my favorite knives I've had them for about 10 or so years now I wouldn't trade them for any other knife.
I just picked up an LMF II myself. It is robust and well designed. For defense, processing wood and other camp tasks, it would be excellent. I wouldn’t abuse a knife the way she did especially in a survival situation.
Thanks for for showing their internal construction.
Which one is your favorite? The Prodigy, Strongarm or LMFII?
Gerber LMF: amzn.to/3utdVmB
Gerber Prodigy: amzn.to/3F9zzAZ
Gerber Strongarm: amzn.to/3s232rd
This is not a sponsored review. I purchased the knives myself and I am not affiliated with Gerber. If you do buy the knives via my amazon links however I will earn a small commission which is enabling me to buy more knives for knife reviews. Thanks!
Salute e pace da Treviso Veneto Italia 🙏🇮🇹🌈🌍🎶grazie Lilly
I actually just got the strong-arm given to me. Good knives
I have the non serrated Prodigy and it suits my needs well.
I'm thinking about getting the strong arm without the serrated edge for a smaller EDC, but would like to purchase one of your APO1-S knives for a EDC, Bushcraft and survival knife.
I had no idea the one was not a full tang! WOW 😳!
I really appreciate your efforts to show the differences in construction of each.
Thank you.👍👍
I have had an LMF2 for about 5 or so years now and I have to say it's an awesome knife yes it was designed for pilots but in a car wreck or road accident it would still be beneficial to have such a large pommel also in urban survival great for harvesting wire etc from a house if you are unsure of the status of wiring.
thank you for that video, Lilly. I bought the prodigy last year because it was much cheaper than the other two, and am glad I did since the higher priced knives do not seem any better.
Survival Lilly
Always enjoys your knife reviews. You seem very knowledgeable.
24:00 It is not connected for a reason: To protect the soldier against an electric shock, the same concept is used in Soviet bayonets.
Once Again, Thank You, Lilly! Great topic. Thanks for taking the time to do this....helped a lot. Cheers!
I shaved down (~ 1/4 inch, 6mm) the upper guard on my Prodigy from Walmart (no serrations) to make it comfortable to reach my thumb over to the spine.
It's just a solid piece of plastic, so it is easy to shave and nothing falls apart or leaves any sharp edges. It still locks in the sheath really well.
BY FAR,
Your best video to date !! This was just so informative and interesting, especially seeing what extremes the knives could take and then their construction ..... would love to see more Urban Survival knife vids
You should restore the edges and make custom handles. It will be fun to watch.
I bought 2 of those gerber tanto knives few years ago, very good . They are made well, and have a wickedly sharp edge.
I have had the LMF for over 10 years!👍Great survival knife. It will do all the heavy work. I do have other, and smaller knives for finer work. The Gerber LMF is a beast! My son has one, he also has the prodigy. Great knives!👍
Lilly, it looks to me that the LMFII could be used as a spear point with or without the handle. Without the handle it appears that is could be slid down in to a split handle and lashed in. Not sure but that sounds interesting to me. Particularly if the handle were damaged. Great video as always thanks for saving us the money used in testing. Best wishes.
Pretty great idea!
The lmf2 is designed to be used as a spear. Notice it's got 3 holes in the handle and the other knives don't. So you can lash it to a stick to make a spear.
One tough gal with knives. My prodegy was too thick for general cutting. Too short for batoning. I had a terrible time trying to reprofile to a longer 17° edge. So thick. I retired it for emergency off grid truck knife because it will not rust by my water system. I have several ka-bars now, and fell in love with ka-bar M1 navy for meat,cheese and vegi cutting! I just refinished a Joker a'guila 1.4116 stainless. Smoothed it for comfort. 4 inch and thick full flat grind. 45.00 usd. Garden to kitchen wonder. Olive wood is the most beautiful ever with satin sanding and boiled linseed oil.rubbed in by hand!
You can easily change the configuration of the strongarm sheath to not flop around so much when it’s on your belt,it’s super tight then 😎
I think you do some of the best and most thorough reviews on RUclips. I love your channel.
Thank you for the review and the test of those knives and i´m not a big fan of partial serrated knives i really don´t like it at all i prefer a plain edge instead. Great video and thank you for sharing much appreciated.
Thank you for that video, Lilly. I bought the prodigy last year because it was much cheaper than the other two, and am glad I did since the higher priced knives do not seem any better.
Again, total destruction, Lilly!!! Very interesting to watch, thank you for this video. I STILL trust your opinions about these knives and thanks for adding to this video the information you researched about the Gerber LMF knife. I too will be unlikely to find myself in a CRASHED HELOCOPTER needing to cut threw electrical wires!! Lol. Great video, Lilly!
Great Video! Now i know why the end of my LMF was always moving around... I thougt it was damaged. Thanks. LMF was one of my first knifes. Still like it but serrations are not my first choice in bushcrafting. LMF is a good part of my GHB.
i have had the lmf2 for about 12 yrs now and i stand by it 100 percent
the two extra holes to the top of the handle also allow to use paracord to fix the jnife to a stick in order to make a spear, and the sheath has a built in sharpener
I have the Strong Arm and the Prodigy, both are non-serrated, which I prefer... I really like them both but haven’t used either in a SURVIVAL situation yet....
Very good and educational video Lilly. I appreciate you cutting these open for a while I debated on which to purchase. I knew that the LMF did not have a full length tang/handle for the reasons mentioned in your vid. You simplified my choice thank you 😊 the for sharing 👍
You should change your gloves. You’re turning the handles purple lol.
Good reviews! But you missed a lot of detail on the strongarm sheath. You can do way more with it than just that nylon belt loop.
I have the Prodigy, it will baton with the best of them and can also carve. Gerber and Buck both do a great job with 420HC.
A great value for the money. It pairs nicely with my small scandi....Principle.
I have two of the strong arms. Because of their Molly capabilities. One for my body armor and one of them on my get home bag. Stay safe Lilly
Hello from British Columbia Canada
🇨🇦👍👋♥️ thanks for your hard work on the reviews for us✌
Great review. I feel that the infantry knife with its gap between the hammer and the tang is a bad design as well. How much electrical isolation could it possibly provide with power lines or high current battery cables? The handle would most likely melt away and separate or simply arc through or across the user's sweaty hand. Thanks.
Maybe it is good to cut low current wires.
@@SurvivalLilly try it n c .
If you want something for your car, I'd check out the Oerla olhk-044. It's Chinese made but it's similar to the Strongarm and only $45 on Amazon. It's 420C with a kydex or plastic sheath. It's just like the Strongarm was price wise in 2015 when people were popularizing it back then. Maybe you can test the oerla olhk-044 for strength and durability.
I was lucky to get a Gerber strongarm last year for $55 at blade HQ...got the brown straight edge....strongarm is a solid knife to own
I have never seen anyone cut the handles off a knife to see how it was put together. But, after watching your video I am going to pick up a Gerber strongarm for the car. Thank you for all your efforts. The videos and the effort, materials and imagination have certainly been inspirational to me, and, I believe, to many others.
I love my lmf 2, and my boker vox rold. Also love my bk9, and Condor parang. I also have the cold steel spetznaz shovel and a Husqvarna hatchet and a cold steel trail boss axe and several other knives and tools and hatchets!!! Got a few mora's including some of the bushcraft and the cheapies. I am covered for nearly any purpose I could need.
Fwiw, the strongarm and prodigy have the exact same blade. Only the grips are a little different (strongarm is a little fatter) and their sheaths are quite different. Both sheaths are very good.
I carry the LMFII, Schrade SCAX5 tactical axe and a Lennox tri-fold saw that takes reciprocating saw blades, that way I can cut through all kinds of material. When I go into our main city I am travelling underground in Subway's basements of buildings Etc. I would rather have the insulated handle because if there is an earthquake or blackout I may find myself touching things which could be electrified. Also I do not intend to put this much destruction on my knife when I have a tactical axe so I'm not worry about breaking it.
By the way I would never loan you a knife or any of my tools. You're probably very very nice person but you beat those knives to death, ha. Hi from Canada. One last thing the LMFll has a flat spot on the handle for hammering nails.
I have the Strongarm with a plain edge (no serrations) and I think it's a good knife but I don't really like the feel of the handle so it mostly sits in my bag as a spare.
I personally think the Prodigy is more comfortable than the StrongArm,I have both but I never use either..I think the S35VN ESEE 3 is a far better knife..I learned a long time ago most of these big thick bladed knives aren’t for me unless it’s a big chopper like the ESEE Junglas,OKC RTAK2,TOPS Storm Vector,etc.I like a fairly thin blade with a full flat,Scandi,convex grind or a high saber grind because they do a far better job performing most knife tasks than these 1/4” thick slabs of steel.I don’t mind a fairly thick blade if it’s also a good and wide blade that isn’t ridiculously thick behind the edge
@@garrettferrell6821 If you want to see a thick knife, take a look at a Kukri. I have one that's almost a half inch think. It takes a very good edge but who knows what kind of steel it is, probably a leaf spring. I actually like it for working in my woods but it's kind of a pain to carry on a belt, it's more like a short sword than a knife.
I've been interested in the strongarm. Thanks for the thorough testing. Great video.
Hey Lilly
I carry a gerber BG, grew attached to it's multi functional usage. My gerber has the hammer. Carry a buck to though for back up. I like havin gerber serrations available 👍.
Tya my friend♥️👍👍
Hi Lilly! Love your videos! I pulled out my smooth edge Gerber Strongarm knife. You need to snap in the top part of the handle next to the hammer to limit all of that movement. Remind me not to let you test out my knives. LOL.
the gerber strong arm webbing is designed to be worn in the the hip/thigh, whose lower part of the sheath is strapped to the thigh, hence the movement. the strong arm sheath’s strap could be removed and attached to MOLLE straps in bags, rigs and plate carriers such as bags, backpacks, thigh rigs and plate carriers. also, the gerber strong arm sheath can be worn in a horizontal position in the belt. which makes the strong arm a very versatile carry knife. the LMFhas holes to tie it into a spear if needed…
To me, urban survival is basically protecting yourself in a fight. I wouldn't choose any of these.
My preference is a thin blade and handle, primarily a dagger, with the handle wrapped in elasticated sticking plaster bandage, to avoid fingerprints
Cool honest review and no commercial!
I so so want one bcuz I spent the majority of my days outdoors & helping my parents with the farm & chickens
I watch your videos and get a lot out of them especially your prepping...I was wondering if you could make more of them. With the way of the world 🌎 is today...thanks and keep up the good work 💪
This is my first time making a comment. I've watched your videos for year's now. I have enjoyed them all. Thank you for another excellent video. I enjoy knife collecting, though not a knife snob. The best knife is the one you have on you. I have both the Strong-arm and Prodigy. Neither knife has ever let me down. I have taken them with me on horseback rides. They fit great in the saddle bags. I've used them as camp knives, tack fixing knives, horse hoof cleaning knives and even (Don't tell Gerber 😉) used them to pry fences when fixing them. I hope I get a Lilly heart for my comment🤠.
After seeing all these knives I would choose a knife you didn’t review. I like the APO better because it would be easier to maintain in a situation where it’s used on a regular and possibly extended basis in any setting. I say this as someone who has experience with the LMF 2 and the APO. You did a good job designing the APO and if you’re concerned about electricity you can wear gloves or the handle can be wrapped with something nonconductive.
Great video for actually looking inside the handles too............
I own the Prodigy fine edge coyote color, I also own the Strongarm in Coyote color. Thank you for doing this video 👍
The best survival knife is the one you happen to have with you when you find yourself in a survival situation.
I have Prodigy tanto with tactical both sides sheath , but for survival I will take Glock 78 due to longer blade.
If you convex the edge, then they do much better at wood processing. You don't need to change the edge angle, just blend the edge to the grind angle.
My approach was to bring the edge (non-serrated only) down to the guard since I'm not really into stabbing people, then I convex the edge over that last 1/4 inch (6mm) or so and leave a final angle of 20 to 25 degrees per side.
I have the original LMF. Lost it to my daughter so I bought her the LMF II so I could get my LMF back.
You ahould try the KABAR. Realky any of them, but my favorite is the BK2. Its a HEAVY knife. Thick. Antirust coating. 5in blade.
I also like th mk1. Simple design. Simple knife. Same quality.
Ive used my bk2 as a hammer, to make food, to process wood, and everything in between. It has lived muktiole tumbles down rivers, hikes up mountains, and even been accidentaly thrown in a fire. After 4 years of bitter work, it has maintain a sharp edge with good care of it.
It has been my favorite knife ive ever bought. I just feel good walking into the woods with it.
I always put a bike tube over non-grippy handles, like the one on the Mora Garberg. Nice touch using a cheaper Mora in your handle destruction!
I have a strong arm. As a former soldier it fits all my needs. That being said I have the plan edge version. Which carves and batons much better
Good information, Gerber makes some inexpensive good knives. Thx Lilly
The mora you were using to cut off the handles is a stick tang.
I still like your knife the best.
A few years ago I was looking for a replacement for a knife that I bought from a buddy's brother because after I bought it and started using it it seems like really cheap steel and checked out several knives. I ended up going with the Gerber Prodigy for the following reasons. It seemed to be better made than some of the more expensive options. It is made in the USA. I prefer the sheath it comes with. Unlike several of the other options the one that I bought does not have the serrations which suck in a real survival situation. And it is cheap enough that I am not going to care if it gets much damage because I am rough on knives that I carry for this type of use. The only complaint that I really have is that the handle is too small for my hands. I have longer hands than the average person my height so I do not hold that against Gerber. Keep in mind that my opinion is based on my experience over the past almost 40 years and may not be the same as someone else.
Very good vid. presenting the knives' internals. You did a great job assessing the built quality of all three of them. It's a pity somewhat you didn't x-ray them not wasting three, or at least two excellent knives;) but then again you wouldn't get to know the built quality inside. Anyways, thanks for the work you put in presenting all the specs for the viewers and reviewing the knives. Take care!
I am going to go against all of them, not saying they are not good, but I want the cutting edge full, the saw edge should be on the opposite side.
Even better would be a good knife paired with a good compact folding saw,like the Silky Saw PocketBoy..one could pair a Mora Companion with a Silky Saw PocketBoy and it would be less weight than most survival knives and would be far more efficient
I love this review. I own the Strongarm. Greetings from Central Italy. 😘
I wonder, if the Steongarm's "airbobbles" came from your knife tip, when you did cut the handle off....
I love my Strongarm, it is awesome and stays in the car. To big to carry around and I don't like the sheath, it has a button on the back that snaps off when i sit in a vehicle,and i can lose it if i don't check it, often. Although the Gerber Principle is a really good knife for EDC carry and I love it, it goes everywhere with me (that doesn't have metal detectors that is). But work and around the house and stores, wherever I go it goes with me. I highly recommend the Principle for EDC. Maybe you should look into that one now.
Sehr interessant dein Video. Danke fürs Zeigen.
Now. Do a review on the Buck 808 talon! That knife is a beast lurking in the shadows.
I would like to see your test the Bear Grylls Gerber knife. Very similar to the ones you just tested. They're orange and gray. I like your testing videos.
these Gerber knives are for sure up there high quality 420HC so hard to break, more bendy than chippy, easy to fix.
Thank You, Ma'am, for the informative video. 👍
■■■...13:35...if you snap the strap around the handle. witch you did not do, there is NO shaking of the knife when you are moving.
Will the APO-1S knives ever be back in stock for the United States?
yes. in October this year.
I have a strongarm an love it!
They can be survival knifes if you have other cutting tools batoning won't be a problem.
🤔food for thought🤔
Great video. You put great effort into that video. Thanks for that 😊👍👍
My prodigy sheath split in half. I did use the knife a lot so i was still happy with the knife, but the sheath let me down.
Order some online and we're counterfeit out of Florida ..this is an excellent review
I have the gerber strongarm and it's my work knife and I love it
Just curious...What brand and model watch are you wearing in this video?
Also, very informative video. I love your channel.
It is a cheap casio watch for 30 bucks
I bought three of your knives. One is mine. The other two are owned by my son and my daughter. I am done looking for big survival knives. 😊👍
I agree a full tang blade is a much better design. You shouldn't be using one of these for working around electrical devices. I really like how you did a destructive physical analysis (DPA). Very Insightful. Thanks!!!
Lily I want to see how u do knives in blacksmith.. Or make your own little blacksmith with gas oven.
Is it a good idea to use the hole at the end of the handle for a twine strap?
If a knife survives your test it's a good knife you beat the crap out of them knives lol I know for sure you'll give the best knife review 😉 great video thank you.
Just commenting to improve your algorithm. The Strongarm is probably the best of the three, even though that carbide sharpener on the other one is pretty much designed for use after your steel bar test🤭
I have all 3 knives now I know you don't have to spend as Much. This was a very good review excellent
The strongarm was never meant to be the "best" knife for anything. It's prime appeal is that it is an affordable "jack-of-all-trades" that is exceptionally rugged. It is a knife one carries if you can only have one knife with you and have no idea what you're going to be encountering. As well, if you somehow damage or lose it, your wallet won't be screaming in agony. That is why it has been a popular with soldiers going on deployment.
Thx for sharing a bit or realistic observation wisdom. I quit buying super expensive knives years ago. The first time I ever lost a Benchmade EDC that I paid $175 for I quickly switched to $60 CRKT knives, and from there, switched over to even cheaper brands like Schrade, and Smith & Wesson EDC knives, on sale, for $25 and under. Along with the occasional kershaw. I use them like tools, like I would a screwdriver, or a pair of pliers, and I don't have to worry about losing them, or damaging them, and they do exactly what I need them to do with no fuss and just the occasional sharpening here and there. I usually carry two. One sharp, and one duller that I use for utility stuff, like scraping, and scratching, and prying. Occasionally I'll snap the tip off one since they are mostly stainless, probably something like 8CR13MOV or equivalent. But in general you learn their weaknesses, and make them work for you. And they are cheap. And even disposable if needed. I've had to abandon them at airports, I've had to abandon them in alleys outside of bars that wouldn't allow me in with a knife, when I was unable to return to retrieve them. A knife is just a tool. And they don't have to be the absolute best to service needs. There's an old saying, that only a rich man can afford to buy cheap tools. But I would say only a rich man can afford to buy expensive knives. You can buy 5 or 10 cheaper knives for the price of one sometimes. And that's a hell of a value. Now, don't get me wrong, I don't buy the cheapest knives. And I'm pretty particular. But if you choose right, and you know the qualities that you're looking for, you can certainly find affordable, high quality knives that will last much of a lifetime without breaking the bank. Especially if you know their limits, and don't abuse them.
All that said, I do own some high-quality, expensive survival knives. But I didn't pay a lot for them. And some of them now are quite valuable.
So, if you have an understanding of quality (and qualities), and value, and you find and purchase really good, well-designed knives (this is key), at really good prices, and hang on to them for 20 or 30 years, you might just find that you have some very valuable items tucked away in a drawer some place at some point.
The best knives of today will someday go out of production, and be highly desired in the future by those who are familiar with them.
Your comment is totally on-point. I believe folks who buy expensive things, be it knives, boots, guns, watches, are "enthusiasts" who collect these items for the personal satisfaction of owning something unique, rather than for any functional utility. There is some truth in the old adage that "you get what you pay for..." in that the higher price often (but not always) gets you more durability, better craftsmanship, quality of materials, etc...but beyond a certain point, a person is just paying for status and bragging rights. Like yourself, if I need to use or wear something day in and day out on the job, I always buy the item that meets my functional needs at the lowest possible price.
Hmmm, so change the knife's name from Prodigy to Strongarm. Give it a slightly different handle and, you can charge more money...? Love my Prodigy. I've had it for years. It's worth has gone WAY BEYOND it's price! Great review btw!!!
I've seen some high end knives with much thinner stick tangs.
This comment will be easy. I don't even have to watch this because I watched it yesterday. Serrations are stupid because they're weak and don't hold up to heavy cutting and use up half of the blade. I'd like to see you use the TRC Apocalypse knife to put it through some actual bushcraft use.
Still like the K-Bar , in any CQB condition... the thing everyone seems to forget think that buying a knife , you magically know how to use it... not only the skill but the determination to defend yourself with the knife and beyond defense, be able to disable, perhaps permanently an attacker.
So I have the Prodigy in a tanto blade . But for my " Urban" kit I actually use a 2 knife system. I have the Boker GITFO for the dirty business and I carry the Lil Davlin also by Boker. Beefy lil guy love them both.
Best review I have seen👍👍
I be got the lmf 2 with the leg scabbard in tan I love mine I know you will too Lilly
Informative. Thanks for sharing.