BIG NEWS: I have designed my own Survival Knife called “APO-1”. You can get it now at my online store: www.survivallilly.at/ Thank you so much for your support
Between the SRK and your modified Mora Pathfinder, I now see where your inspiration came from for the APO-1. Great job on the design, Lilly. Despite your critics, I believe it's a carefully considered knife that's well rounded for a multitude of tasks. Been looking for such a knife lately, so I finally pulled the trigger and bought yours today. Very excited to put it to use :-)
Mark Young I agree. I see so many knife reviews from people for example Kaila Cummings who do knife reviews with brand new knives with no marks from use on the blades or handles at all. To me that's not a knife review that just reading the specs of the box. If people are going to do knife reviews they need to try the blade out for a minimum of a couple months. I have a lot of respect for Lilly and her opinions on gear because she actually goes out and uses her gear.
There are a lot of factors in prepping. One resource I found that succeeds in merging these is the Micaden Survive System (check it out on google) without a doubt the best survival website i've seen. look at the extraordinary free video.
This lady is awesome. She has wonderful picks. It is very rare for someone to choose a wonderful knife like Kellam. Not many bushcrafters even know of it. All in all the knives listed are all of high quality.
Thank you for your honest and comprehensive overview. I don't think anyone should have to pay a small fortune or even a day's wages for a decent quality knife, bushcraft or just camping. Very helpful. ✌
Survival Lilly if it's a mass produced knife I think the cost should be lower . but a custom knife the knife maker usually looses money with the time they put into making one . the steel isn't cheap to buy. neither is good handle making materials. plus the time to make it. and a decent wage to award yourself with .
Excellent job Lily.. From my experience with steel, i look at it two ways, hard (D-2 tool steel) once sharp you don't have to touch it up too often... Mid hardness, re-sharpens faster but also dulls faster then D-2 does.. I own now 2 new knives as of the last 6 months and both are 1095 steel.. I like both and both are full tang which i do like... Over the years now i still lean into the D-2 steel or AUS-8 which is also a good melt and is hard steel.. I own and use 154 CM and ATS 34 steels both are easy to re-sharpen and hold an edge quite well...
Lilly a friend of mine had a similar problem with a clip point knife he had batoning . he brought me several of his tools for a tune up and told me he didn't care for the semi sharpened clip point as well . so while i had his gear and with his permission i reshaped the end of the knife to remove that upper bevel. he is now very happy with the knife and i wish i took pictures of it
As a chef, I use Sakai Takayyuki knives ,they are 33 layer Damascus stainless with a blade hardness in Rockwell scale of 60-61.Similar edge retention to that of carbon steel. I can appreciate that knives are acutely an individual fit .I cherish my knives as my extension. Thanks for the insight into your "knife life" Cheers.
Great advice. I can tell you really know your knives with very practical opinions. Few women today take as much interest in survival camping as you do and I appreciate your insight into something that has traditionally been a mans realm. Your are an inspiration to us all.
Thank you so much for actually talking about the real disadvantage of sharper swedges (clip points) It's not that they eat up the baton so much as the energy transfer is less efficient. They do seem to absorb the blow. A very astute observation!
This is the best knife collection that I've ever seen on youtube. Why? because the knives are used ! Most knives on youtube are only used to open packages of more knives that come in the mail.
pro sharpening tips: 1) when ur knife has a leather sheath, and the sheath has a hard leather edge, you can use that too hone and maintain the sharp knife blade✌️ 2) the best home sharpening tool I have ever used is my 1" belt sander. if you are serious about sharpening knives this is a must have sharpening tool. you can easily sharpen most knives in under 5 minutes to as sharp or sharper than the day you bought the knife.
knife and sword blades are easily protected from rust with a light coating of wax . Even an auto wax will work . I use candle wax for any blade that I will be cutting food with . I hope you will look into it .
I can also speak to the quality of the CS SRK. I've used mine for everything from general camp chores to pulling up linoleum flooring. It goes with me everywhere outdoors, whether it be camping or just a quick hike into the woods behind my house. As a companion to it I also keep a mora #1, which I use for finer work like food prep and carving. I understand this knife has recently, and unfortunately IMO, been discontinued, so when I have to replace it I'll need to do some research, but I'll probably end up getting another Mora(perhaps a neck knife), as I find them to be excellent knives, especially for the price. For larger cutting tasks I have a CS hammer tomahawk with a simple homemade leather sheath.
I have just watched your knife sharpening with various stones. I noticed you said the diamond was chipping. I have a DMT. I have had it 20 years. I have sharpened chisels. Axes and knives. I use it in my kitchen. It's still like the day I bought it. Two sides. Red 600. And blue 125. It cost £90. Best thing I have bought also came in a leather case ideal for stropping I also have a small green. 1200.
+ ghanaboyz also, two is one, one is none. Meaning a backup is never wrong. I learned that lesson as a lineman climbing poles. Carry two of everything up the pole you might need, if possible. If you have two items, you'll never drop the first one. But if you carry only one, Murphy's Law says you'll be climbing down to pick up the one you dropped! As far as meeting you and your sharpened entrenching tool in the dark, that would be one wicked thing to have to face. No telling how many died in WW I from a sharpened entrenching tool. That must have been a true nightmare.
Yes, Murphy's Law can't really be totally forgotten! It tends to remind us of itself :) I can see the value of trying to carry some extra's with you else going up and down a few extra times...! I think you are right on the comment on the entrenching tool. I guess it is an example of "field modification", the long rifles and their issued bayonets being very cumbersome in close quarters. There probably were situations where one scared bastard, well trained in formal rifle bayonet drill, got killed in a trench by another scared bastard using a plain club or sharpened entrenching tool.
I bought the kabar Johnson adventure potbelly, comes with a small fixed blade for the fine stuff right in the sheath. but I also like my boker magnum lil giant as my go to small blade. I bring three knives lol. four if you count my folder on my car keys...
Nice selection. I usually carry a Swiss Army Knife, Gerber Multi-tool, S&W tactical folder, or Cold Steel Kudu wherever I go. In the field I have a Winchester hunter/skinning knife, Fiskars X7 hatchet, and a Ka Bar fighting knife. The Ka Bar I have had for 30 years and it holds up well. My brother has one of the early SRKs, the only thing that has needed replacing was the sheath.
I reckon your choice of the Cold Steel SRK was the right one, It`s what I would choose, Maybe if you really want, You could even cut the rubber handle off and replace it with a homemade wooden one, And with the first one, The D2 steel one, I agree it`s too broad, Maybe you could cut the blade less deep with an angle grinder
I appreciate that you seem to give your honest opinion about your knives. A lot of these channels seem to automatically give great reviews and will only now and then toss a bad critique in for apparent honesty. I've given a lot of thought toward a good bushcraft blade for 'abusing' and have thought harder steels are not actually the way to go as you've suggested. I have a range of Moraknivs I feel would work great for 90% of outdoor activities but I wouldn't want to really abuse them like bashing the spine with a rock. In a survival situation I can easily see the need for that so I'd like a beater blade for that purpose, but will also have a good edge for general usage. Tougher, slightly softer steel like AUS-8 seems to be a good choice.
Sorry, I may comment a few times here... Love the line, "it has a good sheath, so I like the knife" Now THERE is real wisdom. When you're out in the woods, making a camp, crafting, whatever, you have to sheath and unsheath your knife a million times. A bad sheath is going to make that process onerous, you're going to end up putting your knife down or sticking it in some wood, then you're going to move around, and you won't have your belt knife on you when you need it. The sheath is AT LEAST as important as the knife! Good one Lilly, amazing to watch you learn bushcraft, and grow your channel over these . I'll never forgive you for working the yt algos with these short videos (this is your longs video in ages!), your old videos were too good, but it is great watching you get comfortable out there, and blowing up your channel. You've picked up about 27k subscribers in a month! Congrats to you!
Another great gear review, Lilly. I'm also a huge Cold Steel fan, having had and used more than a dozen of their products over the years, including the SRK. I would also choose that as my primary, plus the Recon Scout for heavier work, and always, the multi-use Special Forces Shovel.
The scandi grind knife is a very old school design. I have one just like it. Good point of the scandi grind is that you can easily sharpen in the field due to the flat grind.
Im curious, Ive seen good cases built for carrying 1,2,3,and even 4 fixed blade knives for bushcraft and/or survival to cover different requirements but no mention of the lowly pocket knife. Trapper or Stockman can handle with ease chores as fuzz sticks,meal prep,cord cutting,digging out splinters etc. And it should always be in your pocket!
The SRK, like most clip point knives of that size are less utility and more weapon. The clip point makes thrusting into the abdomen easier, and once embedded the knife can be pushed in a downward motion to cut both downward on the heel and upward internally on the clip point.
The Mora pathfinder can be purchased without the wooden handles and plastic sheath, different places like Amazon on the internet but on their website, it say that the Morakniv pathfinder has been discontinued.
Ontario knife company - "Old Hickory 7" butcher knife - full tang, 1095 high carbon steel, about 3-4 mm thick, 90 degree spine, American hickory handles, brass pins, about 11-1/2" inches overall, very affordable, ( $ 15. dollars ) no sheath though But, Amazon sells thick, leather, after market, sheaths that fit them for around $ 7. dollars. give them a try, they also have paring knives, slicing knives, machete size 14" blades,...10 inch versions also.
You or your friend Survival Mike could just modify the SRK by grinding down the clip point part flat so that when you baton it would not lose that energy.
Scandinavian grind is the best. It is sharp, durable and easy to sharpen. And if you take "Lapin Leuku" with you, you don't necessary need an axe anymore :)
As soon as you mentioned the steel types on each I understood the usefulness of the steel, but then design matters too. D2 is 'tool steel', very hard and durable, used for machining metals. 1095 is a durable quality steel which can be made and kept very sharp. This is a good choice for a all around bushcraft knife. AUS8A is a high quality stainless with long life, but more work to sharpen. Batoning wood with your knife may be necessary in survival conditions, and seems to be popular among wannabe survivalists but is not the purpose of a knife; use an axe.
but you can design a knife that batons, just like you can design a knife to gut deer or to carve wood. Every knife has a different purpose. To say "batoning" is not the purpose of "a" knife is pretty generalising
Glad you shared the experience from using those knives! You gave me some ideas for my next carving knife, I'm interested in the carving ability of the custom knife and that Kellam. If you were going to get another knife for the "one knife purpose" I'd suggest you look into Schrade SCHF9, ESEE-6, Ka-bar Becker BK2. These 3 share same characteristics as: - having exposed full tang, easy to maintain, customize, or replace after being beaten. - drop point with flat spine - blade length 5-7 inches. - are made from 1095 carbon steel There rest would be preference. Thanks for great videos!
Regarding the Boker Vox, you forgot to mention that the leather backing on the sheath isn't included. Nor is it a factory option. As for the SRK, I have one and with that same sheath. Yes, it's quality, but the retention is far too strong. It raises blisters on the end of my thumb. The sheath needs to be modified for easier withdrawal of the knife, or (as I did) an aftermarket custom kydex sheath for it. A good overall video though. Thanks for making it, and Merry Christmas.
I have thrashed my mora companion. 12c27 stainless is extremely tough steel due to its very small carbides. D2 has relatively large carbides for a tool steel and is prone to chipping. Try sleipner steel which is a tougher version though less wear resistant than d2. I have a eka w12 in 12c27. Took alot of reprofiling to sharpen scandi to true scandi. Great sheath, ridiculously tough, hung from a tree with it at 110kg, full tang.
Thanks for the video. Whenever I buy a new hatchet I wrap several layers of duct tape under the head so that if I miss I won't chip the wood. It can also come in handy for a peace of tape but it gets crummy pretty fast so you would have to change it often if you wanted good spare tape around.
I trust you on your blade choices. For your normal hiker and camper user ,however, Morakniv's are incredibly hard to beat for sure. I am using one for a 2000 mile hike. You can get a really good knife for 15 dollars, or 13 euros. ( For the price, I don't think you can do better than a Morakniv) . You could buy 4 of them for your favorite pick. (But really, no one wants to carry 4 knives) So I agree, if you are looking for a survival knife ie. one you need to survive with, go with the stronger one. But for 98% of people, a Morakniv is gonna work really well for the price. ( Also, though I have heard they can break like you said, I have hammered my carbon steel one into a tree by an inch and then held my weight (170 lbs) on it and it didn't break. So in no way are we talking the normal wear and tear you would do on a blade.
Like moraknives or knivs Use their most basic utility knife at work doing freight and have opened and cut who knows thousands of boxes and packs doing freight work. Its just a good chunk of carbon steel at a low enough price (under or around 10 dollars) that dont feel as bad beating up on it. Have gotten aggressive plenty of times and banged it off the rims of food cans over and over and it pretty much always trues out. Only thing that hurts it on occasion is wgen it falls edge or tip down on the cement floor. But part of that is probably due to me progressively sharpening it to a flatter grind with the lawn and garden tool tungsten sharpener I have. Also use the cardboard boxes as stropping material,thats a good industrial lifehack.
What i realy like about your tips and tricks is 'the woman point of view' and i mean that in the most respectful way. I try to interest my wife into bushcrafting and prepping. You convince her, where i can't. Thank you.
That bearing block feature on Survival Mike's custom handle is a fine idea! I watched a much later video where you had to use a rubber handle in a hypothetical survival situation and the lanyard hole was ruined trying to start just one fire. More makers should take note of this valuable modification!
Thanks for the knife review, I really value your opinion. Recently i wanted to start carving spoons and kuksas, so i went to your amazon store and bought the Kellman knife. I couldn't be any happier, like you said it's extremely sharp and does an excellent job carving wood. I also purchased from your store the Gransfors Bruk hatchet. I love how lightweight and sharp it is. Perfect for my carving jobs.
I agree with your knife choices and logic wholeheartedly, but I wonder what the reason is you do not grind down the swage on the Cold Steel SRK if you find it too sharp to baton. I would. Still like the sheath you made for the Mora. Keep Rockin'....
Nice one lilly i have 26 knives and machetes and i put them all to good use i have no favourites but can whittle them down to nine i had a camp that got found but now i have an underground cabin with a chimney coming out of a hollowed tree about 35 feet high i move a rayburn into it amazing for weeks on end hot and warm and waterproof.
Hello,Lilly.Have ever taken the pocket knives into the consideration as the major wood-carving knives?Such as the boyscout camping knife. They have thinner blades which are more suitable for fine carving tasks. I use the axe to split logs and the pocket knife for wood carving.I never baton my belt knife. :)
You are amazing. There is a film starring Jimmy Stewart and Donna Reed called "It's a Wonderful Life." In the film, there is a scene with rain pouring where Jimmy Stewart walks in the door of his new house where his new bride greets him saying "Welcome Home Mr. Bailey." It's a terrific scene where she has resourcefully cobbled together a dinner and a dining room, and a fire and a kitchen all in one tiny space😊 I used to think "only in Hollywood" until I saw your RUclips Channel.
for a great survival knife i recommend the ka bar marine corps fighting knife.... also just search on ebay for. rambo style survival knife. they are about 25 to 30 dollars for the good ones. the ka bar will cost you 100 dollars on ebay or if your near a flea market probally cheaper. two of the best i've used though
I wondering, I use just one to two knives, usually esee and maybe a roselli knife, and GB wildlife hatchet. Besides I see that your tools haven't got enough love, just look at hatchjet, it looks like never have been cleaned after the job and all tools will last you long if you will use them right. Why you need to use knife for splitting the wood if you have a hatchet. Just look at what you have and what you can do with this or that tool.
The steel on the Mora knife is probably UBH20C, which is fairly similar to 1095 :) The SRK recently got updated with CPM-3V steel, which is even tougher than the AUS8-series, and holds an edge for much longer. It is more prone to rust though, as it is a high carbon steel.... I got an old one with Carbon V-blade, and I absolutely love that knife! Greetings from Norway :D
Could the breaking rubber of the knife handle be heated/melted with a fine point flame butane torch to stop it from shedding? I'm not sure if a cigarette lighter would produce enough precisely directed heat. Once heated/melting press it smooth with maybe some waxed paper over the rubber to protect your finger from the rubber sticking to you, burning your skin. The breaking rubber appears to only break where your fingers and thumb rub more strenuously against the tiny knobs/treads. Smoothing that out could add to the custom ergonomic fit for your hand.
Morgan I know old comment but if y'all get this she has a channel called "survival Lilly restricted" she posts a lot of shooting videos and so far has one video on duck cleaning
So I got a new knife. It's from American Knife Company, made by Bark River, and is called the Forest Knife. It's a copy of the Skookum. These knives are very well made and fit Mors Kochonskis specs. I don't agree with Mors that they are survival knives. But holy cow! They sure are pure pleasure to carve and craft with. They have a convex scandie grind. It's the best feather stick knife ever. I can get 20 curls per feather. I love it Lilly😜🥇 Merry Christmas 🎄🌸💐
Each 2 their own. For Me when i go out back packing or bush crafting,i love the mora never ever let me down & for carving i have the mora 120 never ever let me down. My belief very expensive knifes are only bought for something 2 boast about.
Your Puma Knife is a Rare Antique. and Is Quality that is Scarce in the Modern age. Had the Good fortune of Finding a Similar one While out Fishing, Beach Combing an area along the River, During a Record low tide during the summer drought.
i like the puma traditional knife,used as combat knife in ww1.I have recently putted my hands on a late1700-early1800 austrian hunting dagger a beast of knife accompanied by a meat processing little blade.I love your traditions.
Interesting stuff as always I've wondered whether someone should make a special tool for batoning. Apparently, the community is divided about whether batoning is a good thing, and even people who believe in batoning see problems. If someone made a lightweight tool that was very efficient at batoning but didn't cost as much as a regular knife, maybe that tool would sell.
The knife the man used to cut himself also does not have a lanyard hole, for safety reasons always use a lanyard properly while cutting, so your hand does not slip down the blade. do not stab your knife into things, by doing so, is an accident waiting to happen, and/or a broken tip.
Lilly, you forgot your tenacious, and your leatherman wave😄 Very important, they are always with you, and I think a lot of people carry more than 1 cutting tool in the wilderness😄
Have you ever thought about doing a video on the different kinds of edges and grinds? I think that would make a good video. How do you sharpen your knives? I use a slicing style.
Lilly, have you looked at Spyderco knives? Their web site gives extensive information on alloy types, and some models are msde in a vhoice of 5 slloys. Extreme saltwater resistance, extreme hardness to hold a fine edge at the trade-off of being brittle, many choices they are very frank about.
I have a buddy who's been running a diving sparrow for year's never had any issues with it. now they're not cheap but I recommend checking out blackfeather knives either his bushtool or bushlore they are phenomenal all around outdoors blade's
Late comment. Did you use a cutting board for your custom sheath? I did for a CIMA knife I bought. Well actually I replaced the belt clip with the plastic. The CIMA knife has a weird steel belt clip. The cutting board plastic is tough but malleable, and can be shaped with heat. Everyone rags on the CIMA but that 420A(?) steel stays sharp longer than most people think and of course it is easy to sharpen. It is hardened to 58 HRC. I do not use it for super heavy duty, but I beat it up.
Good review, I am only a little curious as to why none of your knives have a serrated edge. I work in wilderness search and rescue and I always carry a knife with a partially serrated edge. 2 years ago I received a partially serrated folding Bear Grylls Gerber (I know) as a gift. I said thank you very much, intending to throw it in my closet of forgotten gear, but I have been abusing it for two years in the bush now and I am so impressed with this $40 knife. On the other end of the spectrum there is the Smith and Wesson Search and Rescue line of knives that I have found to be inadequate for real search and rescue.
hi Lilly. I've got a suggestion for you to add to your knife collection. Try the Ontario Knife Company SP 8 survival machete. It's excellent for batoning and chopping tasks. It's 1095 carbon steel and 1/4 of an inch thick and ten inch long blade. I love mine. it's the perfect companion to your knife. Check it out if you want. You can get them on Amazon. They're not very expensive. There are lots of videos on RUclips about it. Have a great day. Trace
Great vid. I had 3 (now 2) SRK's as my Carbon V SRK, (older original version) went with a friend's son on a tour of duty in Afghanistan. It took a beating and came back home in awesome shape. I would consider it the perfect knife if the tang were wider (not stick) and the clip point were flat. Even still, I'd buy another in a heartbeat.
Hello. You should try Terrava Jakkari Pukko from Varusteleka . You won't nead another knife. Also for wood carving I use Mora Scout stainless for 20 years now and I batan with it with no problems at all.
Hello Lilly, I own and use a lot of knives , I have found the knives I like most are the LT Wright knives made in U.S.A. , My favorite for outdoor use is the LT Wright GNS , it is just such a nice knife and size , the handle is the best I have used in any knife and the 01 steel is great for easy sharpening and field use. My smaller favorite knife for EDC and as a backup knife to the GNS is the LT Wright Next Gen , as well as the LT Wright Frontier valley which I use as a neck knife as well. And No I do not work for LT Wright , It is just after using and owning many knives that company is my favorite for quality and design for what I like in knives they are my first choice over any other knife company. The New LT Wright Sospes looks interesting as well a big hefty knife for many uses, but I do not know if I will buy that one ? it may be too much knife for what I use , plus the GNS can do everything I need in a field knife. Best wishes take care.
Thank you for such an in-depth review of these knives. You can really tell they have been put through their paces which makes this review invaluable. ATB!
Thank you Lilly for an informative video. I wish you made this awhile back as I would have saved a bundle of money getting the wrong knives. I am ordering the Cold Steel as soon as I finish this comment. Stay well and keep these videos coming.
Good collection Lilly. You sure have gotten some use out of them. I have an SRK. It's a real good knife. I don't like big knifes though. I think Batoning is mostly unnecessary and instead I would use a Laplander. Moras are great knives. They last a good while and keep their blade. And Swiss knife for around $15 w/ free shipping. Get a couple of them. A knife Id recommend is a benchmade push knife too. It's not a bushcraft knife. It wasn't made for carving or feathering, but it's a bad little knife for self defense. A last resort small defense knife that comes with a sheath you can leave on your hip or use for EDC. Not much pressure with a push knife, not much at all and it's going into someone. Anyway good vid.
, I also love Mora knives, I have several, extremely sharp. I also have several cold steel knives. you have the exact same common sense taste as I do. glad to see you have several different knives as I do.
Many thanks for your knowledge once again. On ALONE, that's 2 experts in 2 seasons that have tapped out due to careless mistakes with axes. I think a wilderness tool safety video from you would help many people. I'll stick with my knives and saw blades.
Lily, maybe someday you will get to try a cold steel SRK or Master Hunter with carbon V steel. They are no longer made, but many people are amazed by the cutting tests that Cold Steel has posted as proof.
I was thinking of getting a desert or swamp romper by condor knives but might go with a Cold steel knife as a camp/bushcraft knife. I have other cold steel blades and some have needed a bit of work but I have never been disappointed.
Now cold steel has an SRK with SK5 steel and it only costs $40. It's also got a shallow hollow grind. I'm sure that Lilly would like that even more than her current one.
I know they can be a bit pricey, but any thoughts on Bark River knives? If you can afford it, I highly recommend their 3V steel. I own the Gunny myself, but the Aurora looks like a great bushcrafter.
Two Schools of Thought: Old school & Boy/Girl Scout Ethic - Do not baton with your knife/Use a hatchet or axe New School & Military Ethic - Baton with your knife/who needs an axe? Nobody This new I NEED a full-tang knife to camp, hike, & survive thinking is not for everyone and not really true. The gospel is any knife that you know how to use, again *know how to use* works well especially Mora knives. I understand your viewpoint though Lilly.
Why do you have it in the first place ? If it's to defend ... thin to win ( dagger ) , I don't think you can stab very deep with a large blade , you could slash , that is my plan if I defend with a swiss army knife . I only bring this up because if her , no weapon , if military to kill . I think she splits too much wood , no need , likely small wood is around , this is not a dis only a personal choice , I thought I saw in Canada they burned wood in half . The swiss army has a VERY GOOD saw to cut if needed . You can get a belt sheath for a hand ax & I think I would use that to defend over a swiss army . But I use a hand gun to defend so I leave the dagger at home & carry the swiss army , this is only my choice in my local area for short trips . If I had no gun , I would carry the dagger & keep the swiss in my pack .
I have a couple of moras 1 marttiini 2 gerbers (crap LMFs 2) 1 customized similar to the sparrow 2 cold steels 1 kabar gila folding knife 1 esee 6 and 1 crkt shogon Tomahawk. I believe in 2 knives 1 hawk solution, but if I have to pick just 1... no doubt esee 6 will be mi choice
I really like your small Puma knife. I have also reviewed an older Puma Skinner on my channel. It has been a few years but maybe you'll find it interesting. I also reviewed a couple of Bark River knives which have been my favorite knives for many years. I should really post an update video because I have really used those knives over the past few years.
Lilly: I agree with you about D2 steel. Have a Benchmade knife made of D2 steel, and, will not get another D2 steel knife. Had to use diamond stones to get the D2 knife blade to a mediocre sharpness. Prefer to use Arkansas sharpening stones to get knives razor sharp. Works best on regular and stainless steels. Using the course grey stone first. Then a surgical black that is more like 3M lapping paper. Takes a long time but it's worth it. Can actually shave hair with my Ka-bar combat knife.Took 8 months to sharpen and hone that Ka-bar. My father is a professional woodcarver so I had a good teacher to learn knife sharpening skills.
its possible to get the d2 steel to razor sharpness with the dc4 sharpening stone buy fallkniven. no problem. it just takes longer than sharpening softer steel. but therefore it holds the edge very long. nevertheless if you baton something with it, it chips because of the hardness. i dont know what would happen if you make d2 steel which is maybe a little softer
Survival Lilly I have 2 EDC Benchmades in D2, I can get them stupid sharp but I wouldn't choose D2 either for a woods knife. I use one of my ESEE knives 4,6 and Junglas or my Benchmade Arvensis or my Fallkniven S1. I also take a Buck 119 or 120 in the woods on occasion. I either take and axe or my Junglas for a chopper and I prefer to use a 5-6" blade for a camp knife unless I'm hunting.
, I usually carry at least 4 knives. 1. neck knife 2. dedicated Skinner 3. utility type camp knife/ like your apo-1. 4. "Reserve" knife/razor sharp/self defense/killing type knife
I started to make my own knifes because i was frustrated about the quality and design that i get for effordable prices. It ain't that hard to build a good knife, only the heat treatment can be a challenge. However since i made my first knife, i search for perfection. So actually i bought some better tools etc. I don't want to know what i spent for my knifes. Think i could have bought one of the most expensive for the amount by now. However, since i build them myself, i never use a bought stock knife anymore. Custom knifes are incredibly much better than mass produced ones. I didn't want to believe it myself before. Maybe it's because you can make or order them precisely the way you specially want them to be.
also the smith n wesson m9 bayonet is a great bush knife along with the reg. m9 bayonet. or if your looking for one cheap a military surplus ak 47 bayonet is great for the price even has a built in wire cutter
Considering your taste by knives shown here , I think the Condor Hudson Bay knife would be perfect for you :) Thanks for sharing and have a great holidays !
BIG NEWS: I have designed my own Survival Knife called “APO-1”. You can get it now at my online store: www.survivallilly.at/ Thank you so much for your support
Between the SRK and your modified Mora Pathfinder, I now see where your inspiration came from for the APO-1. Great job on the design, Lilly. Despite your critics, I believe it's a carefully considered knife that's well rounded for a multitude of tasks. Been looking for such a knife lately, so I finally pulled the trigger and bought yours today. Very excited to put it to use :-)
It is obvious your knives are used a lot. This gives your opinions great credibility. Thanks for sharing
Mark Young I agree. I see so many knife reviews from people for example Kaila Cummings who do knife reviews with brand new knives with no marks from use on the blades or handles at all. To me that's not a knife review that just reading the specs of the box. If people are going to do knife reviews they need to try the blade out for a minimum of a couple months. I have a lot of respect for Lilly and her opinions on gear because she actually goes out and uses her gear.
There are a lot of factors in prepping.
One resource I found that succeeds in merging these is the Micaden Survive System
(check it out on google) without a doubt the best survival website i've seen.
look at the extraordinary free video.
Mark Young yeah
I don't agree....
Although I DO agree that she is experienced and knows what she is doing .
This lady is awesome. She has wonderful picks. It is very rare for someone to choose a wonderful knife like Kellam. Not many bushcrafters even know of it. All in all the knives listed are all of high quality.
Thank you for your honest and comprehensive overview. I don't think anyone should have to pay a small fortune or even a day's wages for a decent quality knife, bushcraft or just camping. Very helpful. ✌
Yeah I think so too. Merry Christmas :)
Survival Lilly Thank you, and a Blessed Christmas to you and yours as well.
Survival Lilly if it's a mass produced knife I think the cost should be lower . but a custom knife the knife maker usually looses money with the time they put into making one . the steel isn't cheap to buy. neither is good handle making materials. plus the time to make it. and a decent wage to award yourself with .
Excellent job Lily.. From my experience with steel, i look at it two ways, hard (D-2 tool steel) once sharp you don't have to touch it up too often... Mid hardness, re-sharpens faster but also dulls faster then D-2 does.. I own now 2 new knives as of the last 6 months and both are 1095 steel.. I like both and both are full tang which i do like... Over the years now i still lean into the D-2 steel or AUS-8 which is also a good melt and is hard steel.. I own and use 154 CM and ATS 34 steels both are easy to re-sharpen and hold an edge quite well...
Lilly a friend of mine had a similar problem with a clip point knife he had batoning . he brought me several of his tools for a tune up and told me he didn't care for the semi sharpened clip point as well . so while i had his gear and with his permission i reshaped the end of the knife to remove that upper bevel. he is now very happy with the knife and i wish i took pictures of it
As a chef, I use Sakai Takayyuki knives ,they are 33 layer Damascus stainless with a blade hardness in Rockwell scale of 60-61.Similar edge retention to that of carbon steel. I can appreciate that knives are acutely an individual fit .I cherish my knives as my extension. Thanks for the insight into your "knife life" Cheers.
Great advice. I can tell you really know your knives with very practical opinions. Few women today take as much interest in survival camping as you do and I appreciate your insight into something that has traditionally been a mans realm. Your are an inspiration to us all.
Thank you so much for actually talking about the real disadvantage of sharper swedges (clip points) It's not that they eat up the baton so much as the energy transfer is less efficient. They do seem to absorb the blow. A very astute observation!
This is the best knife collection that I've ever seen on youtube. Why? because the knives are used ! Most knives on youtube are only used to open packages of more knives that come in the mail.
🕵️♂️
pro sharpening tips:
1) when ur knife has a leather sheath, and the sheath has a hard leather edge, you can use that too hone and maintain the sharp knife blade✌️
2) the best home sharpening tool I have ever used is my 1" belt sander. if you are serious about sharpening knives this is a must have sharpening tool. you can easily sharpen most knives in under 5 minutes to as sharp or sharper than the day you bought the knife.
knife and sword blades are easily protected from rust with a light coating of wax . Even an auto wax will work . I use candle wax for any blade that I will be cutting food with . I hope you will look into it .
I can also speak to the quality of the CS SRK. I've used mine for everything from general camp chores to pulling up linoleum flooring. It goes with me everywhere outdoors, whether it be camping or just a quick hike into the woods behind my house. As a companion to it I also keep a mora #1, which I use for finer work like food prep and carving. I understand this knife has recently, and unfortunately IMO, been discontinued, so when I have to replace it I'll need to do some research, but I'll probably end up getting another Mora(perhaps a neck knife), as I find them to be excellent knives, especially for the price. For larger cutting tasks I have a CS hammer tomahawk with a simple homemade leather sheath.
I have just watched your knife sharpening with various stones. I noticed you said the diamond was chipping. I have a DMT. I have had it 20 years. I have sharpened chisels. Axes and knives. I use it in my kitchen. It's still like the day I bought it. Two sides. Red 600. And blue 125. It cost £90. Best thing I have bought also came in a leather case ideal for stropping I also have a small green. 1200.
I am putting a message here because I am watching on tv and cant find the sharpening vid on the phone🙂
One knife is good. Two knives better. It's hard for one knife to do everything.
also, two is one, one is none. Meaning a backup is never wrong.
Sure, can't argue with that.
+ ghanaboyz also, two is one, one is none. Meaning a backup is never wrong.
I learned that lesson as a lineman climbing poles. Carry two of everything up the pole you might need, if possible. If you have two items, you'll never drop the first one. But if you carry only one, Murphy's Law says you'll be climbing down to pick up the one you dropped!
As far as meeting you and your sharpened entrenching tool in the dark, that would be one wicked thing to have to face. No telling how many died in WW I from a sharpened entrenching tool. That must have been a true nightmare.
Yes, Murphy's Law can't really be totally forgotten! It tends to remind us of itself :)
I can see the value of trying to carry some extra's with you else going up and down a few extra times...!
I think you are right on the comment on the entrenching tool. I guess it is an example of "field modification", the long rifles and their issued bayonets being very cumbersome in close quarters. There probably were situations where one scared bastard, well trained in formal rifle bayonet drill, got killed in a trench by another scared bastard using a plain club or sharpened entrenching tool.
I bought the kabar Johnson adventure potbelly, comes with a small fixed blade for the fine stuff right in the sheath. but I also like my boker magnum lil giant as my go to small blade. I bring three knives lol. four if you count my folder on my car keys...
Nice selection. I usually carry a Swiss Army Knife, Gerber Multi-tool, S&W tactical folder, or Cold Steel Kudu wherever I go. In the field I have a Winchester hunter/skinning knife, Fiskars X7 hatchet, and a Ka Bar fighting knife. The Ka Bar I have had for 30 years and it holds up well. My brother has one of the early SRKs, the only thing that has needed replacing was the sheath.
I reckon your choice of the Cold Steel SRK was the right one, It`s what I would choose, Maybe if you really want, You could even cut the rubber handle off and replace it with a homemade wooden one, And with the first one, The D2 steel one, I agree it`s too broad, Maybe you could cut the blade less deep with an angle grinder
I appreciate that you seem to give your honest opinion about your knives. A lot of these channels seem to automatically give great reviews and will only now and then toss a bad critique in for apparent honesty. I've given a lot of thought toward a good bushcraft blade for 'abusing' and have thought harder steels are not actually the way to go as you've suggested. I have a range of Moraknivs I feel would work great for 90% of outdoor activities but I wouldn't want to really abuse them like bashing the spine with a rock. In a survival situation I can easily see the need for that so I'd like a beater blade for that purpose, but will also have a good edge for general usage. Tougher, slightly softer steel like AUS-8 seems to be a good choice.
Sorry, I may comment a few times here... Love the line, "it has a good sheath, so I like the knife" Now THERE is real wisdom. When you're out in the woods, making a camp, crafting, whatever, you have to sheath and unsheath your knife a million times. A bad sheath is going to make that process onerous, you're going to end up putting your knife down or sticking it in some wood, then you're going to move around, and you won't have your belt knife on you when you need it. The sheath is AT LEAST as important as the knife! Good one Lilly, amazing to watch you learn bushcraft, and grow your channel over these . I'll never forgive you for working the yt algos with these short videos (this is your longs video in ages!), your old videos were too good, but it is great watching you get comfortable out there, and blowing up your channel. You've picked up about 27k subscribers in a month! Congrats to you!
Another great gear review, Lilly. I'm also a huge Cold Steel fan, having had and used more than a dozen of their products over the years, including the SRK. I would also choose that as my primary, plus the Recon Scout for heavier work, and always, the multi-use Special Forces Shovel.
The scandi grind knife is a very old school design. I have one just like it. Good point of the scandi grind is that you can easily sharpen in the field due to the flat grind.
Im curious, Ive seen good cases built for carrying 1,2,3,and even 4 fixed blade knives for bushcraft and/or survival to cover different requirements but no mention of the lowly pocket knife. Trapper or Stockman can handle with ease chores as fuzz sticks,meal prep,cord cutting,digging out splinters etc. And it should always be in your pocket!
The SRK, like most clip point knives of that size are less utility and more weapon. The clip point makes thrusting into the abdomen easier, and once embedded the knife can be pushed in a downward motion to cut both downward on the heel and upward internally on the clip point.
The Mora pathfinder can be purchased without the wooden handles and plastic sheath, different places like Amazon on the internet but on their website, it say that the Morakniv pathfinder has been discontinued.
Ontario knife company - "Old Hickory 7" butcher knife - full tang, 1095 high carbon steel, about 3-4 mm thick, 90 degree spine, American hickory handles, brass pins, about 11-1/2" inches overall, very affordable, ( $ 15. dollars ) no sheath though But, Amazon sells thick, leather, after market, sheaths that fit them for around $ 7. dollars. give them a try, they also have paring knives, slicing knives, machete size 14" blades,...10 inch versions also.
You or your friend Survival Mike could just modify the SRK by grinding down the clip point part flat so that when you baton it would not lose that energy.
yes i thought about that. will do so in near future :)
bishop2355 Good call. I was seeking a solution to that problem before I bought it. Thanks!
Survival Lilly hi I like the one before the ake
Scandinavian grind is the best.
It is sharp, durable and easy to sharpen. And if you take "Lapin Leuku" with you, you don't necessary need an axe anymore :)
As soon as you mentioned the steel types on each I understood the usefulness of the steel, but then design matters too. D2 is 'tool steel', very hard and durable, used for machining metals. 1095 is a durable quality steel which can be made and kept very sharp. This is a good choice for a all around bushcraft knife. AUS8A is a high quality stainless with long life, but more work to sharpen. Batoning wood with your knife may be necessary in survival conditions, and seems to be popular among wannabe survivalists but is not the purpose of a knife; use an axe.
but you can design a knife that batons, just like you can design a knife to gut deer or to carve wood. Every knife has a different purpose. To say "batoning" is not the purpose of "a" knife is pretty generalising
Glad you shared the experience from using those knives! You gave me some ideas for my next carving knife, I'm interested in the carving ability of the custom knife and that Kellam.
If you were going to get another knife for the "one knife purpose" I'd suggest you look into Schrade SCHF9, ESEE-6, Ka-bar Becker BK2. These 3 share same characteristics as:
- having exposed full tang, easy to maintain, customize, or replace after being beaten.
- drop point with flat spine
- blade length 5-7 inches.
- are made from 1095 carbon steel
There rest would be preference.
Thanks for great videos!
Regarding the Boker Vox, you forgot to mention that the leather backing on the sheath isn't included. Nor is it a factory option. As for the SRK, I have one and with that same sheath. Yes, it's quality, but the retention is far too strong. It raises blisters on the end of my thumb. The sheath needs to be modified for easier withdrawal of the knife, or (as I did) an aftermarket custom kydex sheath for it.
A good overall video though. Thanks for making it, and Merry Christmas.
I bought some good Gransfors Bruks hatchets and axes for heavy wood craft. I don't use knives for chopping anymore.
I have thrashed my mora companion. 12c27 stainless is extremely tough steel due to its very small carbides. D2 has relatively large carbides for a tool steel and is prone to chipping. Try sleipner steel which is a tougher version though less wear resistant than d2. I have a eka w12 in 12c27. Took alot of reprofiling to sharpen scandi to true scandi. Great sheath, ridiculously tough, hung from a tree with it at 110kg, full tang.
Thanks for the video. Whenever I buy a new hatchet I wrap several layers of duct tape under the head so that if I miss I won't chip the wood. It can also come in handy for a peace of tape but it gets crummy pretty fast so you would have to change it often if you wanted good spare tape around.
You rock Lilly. Women like you give me real hope for our world.
I trust you on your blade choices. For your normal hiker and camper user ,however, Morakniv's are incredibly hard to beat for sure. I am using one for a 2000 mile hike. You can get a really good knife for 15 dollars, or 13 euros. ( For the price, I don't think you can do better than a Morakniv) . You could buy 4 of them for your favorite pick. (But really, no one wants to carry 4 knives) So I agree, if you are looking for a survival knife ie. one you need to survive with, go with the stronger one. But for 98% of people, a Morakniv is gonna work really well for the price. ( Also, though I have heard they can break like you said, I have hammered my carbon steel one into a tree by an inch and then held my weight (170 lbs) on it and it didn't break. So in no way are we talking the normal wear and tear you would do on a blade.
Like moraknives or knivs
Use their most basic utility knife at work doing freight and have opened and cut who knows thousands of boxes and packs doing freight work.
Its just a good chunk of carbon steel at a low enough price (under or around 10 dollars) that dont feel as bad beating up on it. Have gotten aggressive plenty of times and banged it off the rims of food cans over and over and it pretty much always trues out. Only thing that hurts it on occasion is wgen it falls edge or tip down on the cement floor. But part of that is probably due to me progressively sharpening it to a flatter grind with the lawn and garden tool tungsten sharpener I have. Also use the cardboard boxes as stropping material,thats a good industrial lifehack.
What i realy like about your tips and tricks is 'the woman point of view' and i mean that in the most respectful way. I try to interest my wife into bushcrafting and prepping. You convince her, where i can't. Thank you.
That bearing block feature on Survival Mike's custom handle is a fine idea! I watched a much later video where you had to use a rubber handle in a hypothetical survival situation and the lanyard hole was ruined trying to start just one fire. More makers should take note of this valuable modification!
Thanks for the knife review, I really value your opinion. Recently i wanted to start carving spoons and kuksas, so i went to your amazon store and bought the Kellman knife. I couldn't be any happier, like you said it's extremely sharp and does an excellent job carving wood. I also purchased from your store the Gransfors Bruk hatchet. I love how lightweight and sharp it is. Perfect for my carving jobs.
I agree with your knife choices and logic wholeheartedly, but I wonder what the reason is you do not grind down the swage on the Cold Steel SRK if you find it too sharp to baton. I would. Still like the sheath you made for the Mora. Keep Rockin'....
I will do that soon :)
Nice one lilly i have 26 knives and machetes and i put them all to good use i have no favourites but can whittle them down to nine i had a camp that got found but now i have an underground cabin with a chimney coming out of a hollowed tree about 35 feet high i move a rayburn into it amazing for weeks on end hot and warm and waterproof.
Hello,Lilly.Have ever taken the pocket knives into the consideration as the major wood-carving knives?Such as the boyscout camping knife. They have thinner blades which are more suitable for fine carving tasks.
I use the axe to split logs and the pocket knife for wood carving.I never baton my belt knife. :)
You are amazing. There is a film starring Jimmy Stewart and Donna Reed called "It's a Wonderful Life." In the film, there is a scene with rain pouring where Jimmy Stewart walks in the door of his new house where his new bride greets him saying "Welcome Home Mr. Bailey."
It's a terrific scene where she has resourcefully cobbled together a dinner and a dining room, and a fire and a kitchen all in one tiny space😊
I used to think "only in Hollywood" until I saw your RUclips Channel.
for a great survival knife i recommend the ka bar marine corps fighting knife.... also just search on ebay for. rambo style survival knife. they are about 25 to 30 dollars for the good ones. the ka bar will cost you 100 dollars on ebay or if your near a flea market probally cheaper. two of the best i've used though
I wondering, I use just one to two knives, usually esee and maybe a roselli knife, and GB wildlife hatchet.
Besides I see that your tools haven't got enough love, just look at hatchjet, it looks like never have been cleaned after the job and all tools will last you long if you will use them right. Why you need to use knife for splitting the wood if you have a hatchet. Just look at what you have and what you can do with this or that tool.
58 Rockwell are a good compromise.62 is for Outdoo Things.But for Kitchen Knives it is a better option.
The steel on the Mora knife is probably UBH20C, which is fairly similar to 1095 :)
The SRK recently got updated with CPM-3V steel, which is even tougher than the AUS8-series, and holds an edge for much longer. It is more prone to rust though, as it is a high carbon steel....
I got an old one with Carbon V-blade, and I absolutely love that knife!
Greetings from Norway :D
Could the breaking rubber of the knife handle be heated/melted with a fine point flame butane torch to stop it from shedding?
I'm not sure if a cigarette lighter would produce enough precisely directed heat. Once heated/melting press it smooth with maybe some waxed paper over the rubber to protect your finger from the rubber sticking to you, burning your skin.
The breaking rubber appears to only break where your fingers and thumb rub more strenuously against the tiny knobs/treads.
Smoothing that out could add to the custom ergonomic fit for your hand.
Would love to see some videos on hunting, skinning, etc now that you mention it.
Morgan this
Morgan I know old comment but if y'all get this she has a channel called "survival Lilly restricted" she posts a lot of shooting videos and so far has one video on duck cleaning
So I got a new knife. It's from American Knife Company, made by Bark River, and is called the Forest Knife. It's a copy of the Skookum. These knives are very well made and fit Mors Kochonskis specs.
I don't agree with Mors that they are survival knives. But holy cow! They sure are pure pleasure to carve and craft with. They have a convex scandie grind. It's the best feather stick knife ever. I can get 20 curls per feather. I love it Lilly😜🥇
Merry Christmas 🎄🌸💐
Lily, Good honest review of your knives, with the pros and cons. Looking forward to more videos.
Each 2 their own. For Me when i go out back packing or bush crafting,i love the mora never ever let me down & for carving i have the mora 120 never ever let me down. My belief very expensive knifes are only bought for something 2 boast about.
Your Puma Knife is a Rare Antique. and Is Quality that is Scarce in the Modern age. Had the Good fortune of Finding a Similar one While out Fishing, Beach Combing an area along the River, During a Record low tide during the summer drought.
i like the puma traditional knife,used as combat knife in ww1.I have recently putted my hands on a late1700-early1800 austrian
hunting dagger a beast of knife accompanied by a meat processing little blade.I love your traditions.
Interesting stuff as always
I've wondered whether someone should make a special tool for batoning. Apparently, the community is divided about whether batoning is a good thing, and even people who believe in batoning see problems. If someone made a lightweight tool that was very efficient at batoning but didn't cost as much as a regular knife, maybe that tool would sell.
The knife the man used to cut himself also does not have a lanyard hole, for safety reasons always use a lanyard properly while cutting, so your hand does not slip down the blade. do not stab your knife into things, by doing so, is an accident waiting to happen, and/or a broken tip.
Lilly, you forgot your tenacious, and your leatherman wave😄 Very important, they are always with you, and I think a lot of people carry more than 1 cutting tool in the wilderness😄
Have you ever thought about doing a video on the different kinds of edges and grinds? I think that would make a good video. How do you sharpen your knives? I use a slicing style.
Look at the TOPs B.O.B. It stands for Brothers of Bushcraft. Not that expensive, around $120-$130 It comes with a nice sheath and fire steel.
Lilly, have you looked at Spyderco knives? Their web site gives extensive information on alloy types, and some models are msde in a vhoice of 5 slloys. Extreme saltwater resistance, extreme hardness to hold a fine edge at the trade-off of being brittle, many choices they are very frank about.
I have a buddy who's been running a diving sparrow for year's never had any issues with it. now they're not cheap but I recommend checking out blackfeather knives either his bushtool or bushlore they are phenomenal all around outdoors blade's
Great rundown on your knives. It's refreshing to hear actual usage results without all the commercial jargons.
Late comment. Did you use a cutting board for your custom sheath? I did for a CIMA knife I bought. Well actually I replaced the belt clip with the plastic. The CIMA knife has a weird steel belt clip.
The cutting board plastic is tough but malleable, and can be shaped with heat. Everyone rags on the CIMA but that 420A(?) steel stays sharp longer than most people think and of course it is easy to sharpen. It is hardened to 58 HRC. I do not use it for super heavy duty, but I beat it up.
Good review, I am only a little curious as to why none of your knives have a serrated edge. I work in wilderness search and rescue and I always carry a knife with a partially serrated edge. 2 years ago I received a partially serrated folding Bear Grylls Gerber (I know) as a gift. I said thank you very much, intending to throw it in my closet of forgotten gear, but I have been abusing it for two years in the bush now and I am so impressed with this $40 knife.
On the other end of the spectrum there is the Smith and Wesson Search and Rescue line of knives that I have found to be inadequate for real search and rescue.
I absolutely love the Jagdmesser. That is what I would have in the campsite for food prep. Its beautiful.
hi Lilly. I've got a suggestion for you to add to your knife collection. Try the Ontario Knife Company SP 8 survival machete. It's excellent for batoning and chopping tasks. It's 1095 carbon steel and 1/4 of an inch thick and ten inch long blade. I love mine. it's the perfect companion to your knife. Check it out if you want. You can get them on Amazon. They're not very expensive. There are lots of videos on RUclips about it. Have a great day. Trace
Lilly, I wish you would try a Kabar for a while and revue it. Also, what kind of folding knife do you carry EDC?
Great vid. I had 3 (now 2) SRK's as my Carbon V SRK, (older original version) went with a friend's son on a tour of duty in Afghanistan. It took a beating and came back home in awesome shape. I would consider it the perfect knife if the tang were wider (not stick) and the clip point were flat. Even still, I'd buy another in a heartbeat.
Hello. You should try Terrava Jakkari Pukko from Varusteleka . You won't nead another knife. Also for wood carving I use Mora Scout stainless for 20 years now and I batan with it with no problems at all.
"This is not for blood work." Sage advice.
Hello Lilly, I own and use a lot of knives , I have found the knives I like most are the LT Wright knives made in U.S.A. , My favorite for outdoor use is the LT Wright GNS , it is just such a nice knife and size , the handle is the best I have used in any knife and the 01 steel is great for easy sharpening and field use. My smaller favorite knife for EDC and as a backup knife to the GNS is the LT Wright Next Gen , as well as the LT Wright Frontier valley which I use as a neck knife as well. And No I do not work for LT Wright , It is just after using and owning many knives that company is my favorite for quality and design for what I like in knives they are my first choice over any other knife company. The New LT Wright Sospes looks interesting as well a big hefty knife for many uses, but I do not know if I will buy that one ? it may be too much knife for what I use , plus the GNS can do everything I need in a field knife. Best wishes take care.
Thank you for such an in-depth review of these knives. You can really tell they have been put through their paces which makes this review invaluable. ATB!
Thank you Lilly for an informative video. I wish you made this awhile back as I would have saved a bundle of money getting the wrong knives. I am ordering the Cold Steel as soon as I finish this comment. Stay well and keep these videos coming.
Grat insights Lilly. I recently found your channel, and I appreciate your insight on things.
Good collection Lilly. You sure have gotten some use out of them. I have an SRK. It's a real good knife. I don't like big knifes though. I think Batoning is mostly unnecessary and instead I would use a Laplander. Moras are great knives. They last a good while and keep their blade. And Swiss knife for around $15 w/ free shipping. Get a couple of them. A knife Id recommend is a benchmade push knife too. It's not a bushcraft knife. It wasn't made for carving or feathering, but it's a bad little knife for self defense. A last resort small defense knife that comes with a sheath you can leave on your hip or use for EDC. Not much pressure with a push knife, not much at all and it's going into someone. Anyway good vid.
, I also love Mora knives, I have several, extremely sharp. I also have several cold steel knives. you have the exact same common sense taste as I do.
glad to see you have several different knives as I do.
If you ever need to replace a knife consider the Gerber StrongArm or Becker BK7. I think both would fit your preferences, and are reasonably priced.
Many thanks for your knowledge once again. On ALONE, that's 2 experts in 2 seasons that have tapped out due to careless mistakes with axes. I think a wilderness tool safety video from you would help many people. I'll stick with my knives and saw blades.
Lily, maybe someday you will get to try a cold steel SRK or Master Hunter with carbon V steel. They are no longer made, but many people are amazed by the cutting tests that Cold Steel has posted as proof.
This video is extremely helpful and educational. Thank you so much!
Thank you for your honest description and recommendations...👍🏼
I just picked up an OKC RAT 7, for my one tool option. I have heard nothing but good things about them.
I was thinking of getting a desert or swamp romper by condor knives but might go with a Cold steel knife as a camp/bushcraft knife. I have other cold steel blades and some have needed a bit of work but I have never been disappointed.
Now cold steel has an SRK with SK5 steel and it only costs $40. It's also got a shallow hollow grind. I'm sure that Lilly would like that even more than her current one.
not at all. hollow grind sucks and sk5 is not a good steel too.
I love the handle on that Mora . he did a great design!
I know they can be a bit pricey, but any thoughts on Bark River knives? If you can afford it, I highly recommend their 3V steel. I own the Gunny myself, but the Aurora looks like a great bushcrafter.
Two Schools of Thought:
Old school & Boy/Girl Scout Ethic - Do not baton with your knife/Use a hatchet or axe
New School & Military Ethic - Baton with your knife/who needs an axe? Nobody
This new I NEED a full-tang knife to camp, hike, & survive thinking is not for everyone and not really true.
The gospel is any knife that you know how to use, again *know how to use* works well especially Mora knives.
I understand your viewpoint though Lilly.
Why do you have it in the first place ? If it's to defend ... thin to win ( dagger ) , I don't think you can stab very deep with a large blade , you could slash , that is my plan if I defend with a swiss army knife . I only bring this up because if her , no weapon , if military to kill . I think she splits too much wood , no need , likely small wood is around , this is not a dis only a personal choice , I thought I saw in Canada they burned wood in half . The swiss army has a VERY GOOD saw to cut if needed . You can get a belt sheath for a hand ax & I think I would use that to defend over a swiss army . But I use a hand gun to defend so I leave the dagger at home & carry the swiss army , this is only my choice in my local area for short trips . If I had no gun , I would carry the dagger & keep the swiss in my pack .
I have a couple of moras 1 marttiini 2 gerbers (crap LMFs 2) 1 customized similar to the sparrow 2 cold steels 1 kabar gila folding knife 1 esee 6 and 1 crkt shogon Tomahawk.
I believe in 2 knives 1 hawk solution, but if I have to pick just 1... no doubt esee 6 will be mi choice
I really like your small Puma knife. I have also reviewed an older Puma Skinner on my channel. It has been a few years but maybe you'll find it interesting. I also reviewed a couple of Bark River knives which have been my favorite knives for many years. I should really post an update video because I have really used those knives over the past few years.
Nice collection and thanks for the advice! Get the APO-1 u won't be disappointed!
Lilly i hope you get a chance to try a KA-BAR military knife for bushcraft, i'd like to see what you think of it.
Lilly: I agree with you about D2 steel. Have a Benchmade knife made of D2 steel, and, will not get another D2 steel knife. Had to use diamond stones to get the D2 knife blade to a mediocre sharpness. Prefer to use Arkansas sharpening stones to get knives razor sharp. Works best on regular and stainless steels. Using the course grey stone first. Then a surgical black that is more like 3M lapping paper. Takes a long time but it's worth it. Can actually shave hair with my Ka-bar combat knife.Took 8 months to sharpen and hone that Ka-bar. My father is a professional woodcarver so I had a good teacher to learn knife sharpening skills.
its possible to get the d2 steel to razor sharpness with the dc4 sharpening stone buy fallkniven. no problem. it just takes longer than sharpening softer steel. but therefore it holds the edge very long. nevertheless if you baton something with it, it chips because of the hardness. i dont know what would happen if you make d2 steel which is maybe a little softer
Survival Lilly I have 2 EDC Benchmades in D2, I can get them stupid sharp but I wouldn't choose D2 either for a woods knife. I use one of my ESEE knives 4,6 and Junglas or my Benchmade Arvensis or my Fallkniven S1. I also take a Buck 119 or 120 in the woods on occasion. I either take and axe or my Junglas for a chopper and I prefer to use a 5-6" blade for a camp knife unless I'm hunting.
, I usually carry at least 4 knives.
1. neck knife
2. dedicated Skinner
3. utility type camp knife/
like your apo-1.
4. "Reserve" knife/razor sharp/self defense/killing type knife
I think this is a good analysis of the knives you have!
I started to make my own knifes because i was frustrated about the quality and design that i get for effordable prices. It ain't that hard to build a good knife, only the heat treatment can be a challenge. However since i made my first knife, i search for perfection. So actually i bought some better tools etc. I don't want to know what i spent for my knifes. Think i could have bought one of the most expensive for the amount by now. However, since i build them myself, i never use a bought stock knife anymore. Custom knifes are incredibly much better than mass produced ones. I didn't want to believe it myself before. Maybe it's because you can make or order them precisely the way you specially want them to be.
also the smith n wesson m9 bayonet is a great bush knife along with the reg. m9 bayonet. or if your looking for one cheap a military surplus ak 47 bayonet is great for the price even has a built in wire cutter
Regarding the Boker steel, D2 its better for smaller knives, hunting knives but for chopping...not at all.
“The tip is very phin” quote of 2020
I appreciate a review that is unbiased. I will consider the Mora and Cold Steel brands.
Considering your taste by knives shown here , I think the Condor Hudson Bay knife would be perfect for you :)
Thanks for sharing and have a great holidays !
thanks, too broad for my taste tough