Engine is made of metal. Metal is shrunk when cold. You cannot ask a mechanical system that depends on clearances, to operate properly when it's ran at undesirable clearances. Refrain from posting further unresearched content
50/50. Yes, modern cars, let it idle for 15-30 seconds before putting it into gear when talking about motor oil and the motor. However, if you have a manual you have gear oil that you also have to consider. Typically that is a 170w super thick oil and at colder temps, its like molasses. I have an 18 wrx and I change out from 30w to 20w oil in the winter, and change the rear diff from 150w to 100w. So my turbo is happier, my rear diff is happier. but when you just drive off with a manual drive car that has a diff and a gearbox when its below freezing, that gear oil flings and sticks to the casings until it warms up, leaving a potential for extra gear wear. Even in neutral the gearbox still is spinning though not engaged which helps to get the oil moving and warmed up a bit. SO: Automatic non- turbo FWD? Yeah, idle for 30 seconds then drive casually till temp Automatic non-turbo RWD? Depends on Diff but still same for motor Anything Turbo if you aren't going to a thinner oil in winter, let it idle. Most modern cars (manual or automatic) have a programed idle where it will keep it revved to anywhere from 1.5 - 1.75k for a couple minutes. If you have a turbo regardless of drivetrain, let the car idle till RPM's drop
@slimmjesus1424 Nah, it takes at most 10-15 seconds for oil to fully circulate around the engine. You are better off actually driving and putting a load on the engine so that it can warm up
Friend, no offense, but what you are saying about gasoline washing oil off the cylinder walls is such nonsense. At one time I bothered and watched how the ECU works through a scanner and I can say with confidence that a rich mixture lasts about 10-15 seconds, only to warm up the neutralizer. Then the correction brings the stoichiometry to normal and high revs are maintained exclusively by opening the throttle. The stoichiometry after warming up the neutralizer stays within 14.6-14.7. An cold engine is accelerated wear of the cylinder-piston group, wear of the camshafts and crankshaft, liners and oil pump. You can also add warming up the automatic transmission here, but this is not so critical and not so effective. Car owners, do not listen to anyone - if the outside temperature is below the freezing point of water - warm up the engine for at least 5 minutes if you want it to serve you longer than the warranty! And change the oil at half the stated interval.
This guy who made the video hasn't loved in true cold climates. It's common sense when it's way below freezing. The car simply does not work well. The tidbit about washing the oil away was definitely something he read in a forum and made sense to him. The most important thing you can do for your engine at extreme temps is having clean quality oil with the correct visc rating for winter.
i let my truck sit for maybe a few minutes, then keep it under 2k rpms until I see the temperature gauge start to rise. it warms it up faster, doesn't stress the engine and I start moving to school sooner.
i think the 10 to 5 minute range is best because it lets the oil circulate and travel around the engine especially in older 4 cylinders they are just have a design that does not prioritize fast oil circulation
I set a timer for 6 minutes, by that time I plug in my dashcam, set up my car play, give it a nice wipe down, and the RPM has dropped to 1km. -2022 Honda crv
I waited until after i heard what you said to comment and tell you that you're wrong. Tiny bit of extra wear that might occur from running slightly rich is nothing compared to the stress of putting uneven thermal load into a bunch of big, cold bits of metal.
I had an old Mercedes as my first car I was late to school and just drove it half a mile down the road without warming it up when it was 10-15f degrees out, it was down on power a good amount and at the last street light smoke started coming up under the hood, opening the hood the dipstick was pushed 6 inches up and 3ish quarts of oil were all over the engine and exhaust manifold because the oil was so thick it built up trying to drain back down the cylinder head and pressurized the crankcase. All it needed was more oil, I drove it for two more years after that without issue. There is no right answer it depends on where and how the vehicle is driven. 2 minutes warm up for every 10f below 50f outside wouldn't be a bad starting point.
I'm currently jumping down the rabbit hole and I'm looking at both sides. I live in Canada and my rule of thumb has always been to let my car Idle with the heater turned off while I brush off the snow and ice on the outside of the vehicle (where I'm from this is an almost daily task) and even when I do get in the car Ill wait until the idle revs are under 1k to drive with the heater still turned off until the coolant gauge has lifted a bit from the bottom and only then will I turn on the heater. idk yet if this is good or bad for the car I'm going to look more into it but I'm wondering if anyone else turns off the heater for the first ~10 mins (both cold starters and cold idlers). It feels like The engine warms up way faster when I do this and the heater wouldn't be doing anything until the coolant is hot anyways. I do drive an AWD with a manual so I also have the rear diff, transfer case, and transmission oil to think about as well.
I think we all can agree, warm engine good. Cold engine bad. The question is: what gets the engine up to operating temps quicker **when’ it’s really cold out**; letting it idle or driving it lightly. I would say the later is better under really cold temps. The light load will bring the engine up to operating temperature quicker than just idling.
Thin oils everywhere now a days. Just drive casually once you can clearly see through your windows. No need to baby the vehicle. Especially, if it is a manual. Don't lug the engine with low RPM driving. Also, change your oil often so you don't need to worry about fuel diluting the oil so much. People are over thinking this.
I guess 15 * 1500 = 22,500 cold revs 3 * 3000 = 9,000 cold revs and 3000 is probably high as you idle when upto speed I try to keep the revs on the lower side though. Not sure if that's right or not.
I let car idle, because I need to get windows clean. If there is -20°c outside then, it's going to take quite a while to get windows clean. If I don't start the car meanwhile it's going to take even longer to get windows clean.
Do warm up. A car is not just an engine. That's also a fact. Give your windshield time to defrost and stop fogging. Don't drive in a car that inhibits your personal safety just for the sake of what's best for the engine.
Been doing it wrong for the last 40 years….. who knew, I guess my vehicles lasted decades for nothing. Also my 2018 Subaru high idles for ca couple minutes at least at around 12-1500 rpm….. my diesel I just hit the cruise and set the high idle with the + resume button for all you Cummins guys out there. Been doing it wrong all these years I must be a complete idiot.
Jump in a car at 0F and start driving it right after starting it. The transmission shift slowly, the engine sounds horrible, and it simply wont run smoothly. Its common sense: if car doesnt drive well, wait a few minutes. Come live in Alaska and tell us about how you shouldnt waste gas or warm up a gas vehicle 😂
Please tell me no one is listening to this garbage? The reason you warm it up is because you need the metals that make up your block to EXPAND with the heat it whats called a controlled heat cycle if you do it too fast your mating surfaces ie. Your head and block are more proned to warping thus giving a garbage seal and more than likely having leaks and having oil mix with coolant always warm your car up dont just drive the hell out of it as soon as it starts
They are trying to sell new cars. I start mine up, let it warm up while I shave and get ready for work. Nice warm car, up to operating temp. Trans oil warmed up. My cars are 45 years old and work just fine, No rolling iPhone for me.
Engine is made of metal. Metal is shrunk when cold. You cannot ask a mechanical system that depends on clearances, to operate properly when it's ran at undesirable clearances. Refrain from posting further unresearched content
this is on point never just drive a very cold car that's fucking dumb to,
50/50. Yes, modern cars, let it idle for 15-30 seconds before putting it into gear when talking about motor oil and the motor. However, if you have a manual you have gear oil that you also have to consider. Typically that is a 170w super thick oil and at colder temps, its like molasses. I have an 18 wrx and I change out from 30w to 20w oil in the winter, and change the rear diff from 150w to 100w. So my turbo is happier, my rear diff is happier. but when you just drive off with a manual drive car that has a diff and a gearbox when its below freezing, that gear oil flings and sticks to the casings until it warms up, leaving a potential for extra gear wear. Even in neutral the gearbox still is spinning though not engaged which helps to get the oil moving and warmed up a bit.
SO: Automatic non- turbo FWD? Yeah, idle for 30 seconds then drive casually till temp
Automatic non-turbo RWD? Depends on Diff but still same for motor
Anything Turbo if you aren't going to a thinner oil in winter, let it idle. Most modern cars (manual or automatic) have a programed idle where it will keep it revved to anywhere from 1.5 - 1.75k for a couple minutes. If you have a turbo regardless of drivetrain, let the car idle till RPM's drop
You should only idle it for 30 secs - 1 minute to let the oil circulate, anything after is just wasting time and youre better off driving it
Every car I’ve had I start then reach for the gear shift. Start and go.
This is the way
just wait for the rpms to drop to normal its better for the internal components at max takes 10 minutes when its cold
literally ignoring all the arguments lmao
10-15 seconds and then low rpm driving is all you need
@spacepiggaming when it's 30 degrees outside and u wait 15 seconds ur destroying ur motor
@slimmjesus1424 Nah, it takes at most 10-15 seconds for oil to fully circulate around the engine. You are better off actually driving and putting a load on the engine so that it can warm up
Me personally i wait till the RPMs drop, or until the water temp gets to the first tick on the gauge
Friend, no offense, but what you are saying about gasoline washing oil off the cylinder walls is such nonsense. At one time I bothered and watched how the ECU works through a scanner and I can say with confidence that a rich mixture lasts about 10-15 seconds, only to warm up the neutralizer. Then the correction brings the stoichiometry to normal and high revs are maintained exclusively by opening the throttle. The stoichiometry after warming up the neutralizer stays within 14.6-14.7.
An cold engine is accelerated wear of the cylinder-piston group, wear of the camshafts and crankshaft, liners and oil pump.
You can also add warming up the automatic transmission here, but this is not so critical and not so effective.
Car owners, do not listen to anyone - if the outside temperature is below the freezing point of water - warm up the engine for at least 5 minutes if you want it to serve you longer than the warranty! And change the oil at half the stated interval.
This guy who made the video hasn't loved in true cold climates. It's common sense when it's way below freezing. The car simply does not work well. The tidbit about washing the oil away was definitely something he read in a forum and made sense to him. The most important thing you can do for your engine at extreme temps is having clean quality oil with the correct visc rating for winter.
i let my truck sit for maybe a few minutes, then keep it under 2k rpms until I see the temperature gauge start to rise. it warms it up faster, doesn't stress the engine and I start moving to school sooner.
i think the 10 to 5 minute range is best because it lets the oil circulate and travel around the engine especially in older 4 cylinders they are just have a design that does not prioritize fast oil circulation
I just let mine run long enough for solid oil pressure to make it to the lifters and top end
I set a timer for 6 minutes, by that time I plug in my dashcam, set up my car play, give it a nice wipe down, and the RPM has dropped to 1km. -2022 Honda crv
Is your dashcam not already plugged into your cigarette outlet?
I waited until after i heard what you said to comment and tell you that you're wrong.
Tiny bit of extra wear that might occur from running slightly rich is nothing compared to the stress of putting uneven thermal load into a bunch of big, cold bits of metal.
I appreciate you hearing my side of the story first haha, most people don’t listen to the points I make.
I had an old Mercedes as my first car I was late to school and just drove it half a mile down the road without warming it up when it was 10-15f degrees out, it was down on power a good amount and at the last street light smoke started coming up under the hood, opening the hood the dipstick was pushed 6 inches up and 3ish quarts of oil were all over the engine and exhaust manifold because the oil was so thick it built up trying to drain back down the cylinder head and pressurized the crankcase. All it needed was more oil, I drove it for two more years after that without issue. There is no right answer it depends on where and how the vehicle is driven. 2 minutes warm up for every 10f below 50f outside wouldn't be a bad starting point.
I idle for 5 minutes in the winter to defrost everything
Defrosting the windshield is probably the only necessary exception, gotta see haha
I'm currently jumping down the rabbit hole and I'm looking at both sides. I live in Canada and my rule of thumb has always been to let my car Idle with the heater turned off while I brush off the snow and ice on the outside of the vehicle (where I'm from this is an almost daily task) and even when I do get in the car Ill wait until the idle revs are under 1k to drive with the heater still turned off until the coolant gauge has lifted a bit from the bottom and only then will I turn on the heater.
idk yet if this is good or bad for the car I'm going to look more into it but I'm wondering if anyone else turns off the heater for the first ~10 mins (both cold starters and cold idlers). It feels like The engine warms up way faster when I do this and the heater wouldn't be doing anything until the coolant is hot anyways.
I do drive an AWD with a manual so I also have the rear diff, transfer case, and transmission oil to think about as well.
I think we all can agree, warm engine good. Cold engine bad. The question is: what gets the engine up to operating temps quicker **when’ it’s really cold out**; letting it idle or driving it lightly. I would say the later is better under really cold temps. The light load will bring the engine up to operating temperature quicker than just idling.
Thin oils everywhere now a days. Just drive casually once you can clearly see through your windows. No need to baby the vehicle. Especially, if it is a manual. Don't lug the engine with low RPM driving. Also, change your oil often so you don't need to worry about fuel diluting the oil so much. People are over thinking this.
I guess
15 * 1500 = 22,500 cold revs
3 * 3000 = 9,000 cold revs
and 3000 is probably high as you idle when upto speed
I try to keep the revs on the lower side though. Not sure if that's right or not.
Probably not a terrible thought haha
I have the superb mechanical sympathy. I let my engine warm up so I can beat the shit out of it on my 15 minute commute.
I let car idle, because I need to get windows clean. If there is -20°c outside then, it's going to take quite a while to get windows clean. If I don't start the car meanwhile it's going to take even longer to get windows clean.
Do warm up.
A car is not just an engine.
That's also a fact.
Give your windshield time to defrost and stop fogging. Don't drive in a car that inhibits your personal safety just for the sake of what's best for the engine.
Warm up your car folks
Guys Lucas oil stabilizer exists⚠️⚠️don’t be stressing y’all’s engines for nothing
Been doing it wrong for the last 40 years….. who knew, I guess my vehicles lasted decades for nothing. Also my 2018 Subaru high idles for ca couple minutes at least at around 12-1500 rpm….. my diesel I just hit the cruise and set the high idle with the + resume button for all you Cummins guys out there. Been doing it wrong all these years I must be a complete idiot.
Jump in a car at 0F and start driving it right after starting it. The transmission shift slowly, the engine sounds horrible, and it simply wont run smoothly. Its common sense: if car doesnt drive well, wait a few minutes. Come live in Alaska and tell us about how you shouldnt waste gas or warm up a gas vehicle 😂
Please tell me no one is listening to this garbage? The reason you warm it up is because you need the metals that make up your block to EXPAND with the heat it whats called a controlled heat cycle if you do it too fast your mating surfaces ie. Your head and block are more proned to warping thus giving a garbage seal and more than likely having leaks and having oil mix with coolant always warm your car up dont just drive the hell out of it as soon as it starts
They are trying to sell new cars. I start mine up, let it warm up while I shave and get ready for work. Nice warm car, up to operating temp. Trans oil warmed up. My cars are 45 years old and work just fine, No rolling iPhone for me.
🤣
I drive it like I stole it instead, that way it warms up faster. Might be bad for it, but I don't care.. that's the next owner's problem.
you say that until it implodes on you and you're out a car
@@CalamityStrm that's what the manufacture's warranty is for..
@@wantsanewvehicle ironic w/ the name you have
@@CalamityStrm yup, and I don't keep vehicles for very long. So.. not my problem if something happens! ;)
as long as you do it with new cars go for it. they're not made to last anyway