I think a ULM tank is the way to go. I based my build off this and the WWC series. My first tank, that I sold to a friend, was too complicated, required too much maintenance, and ultimately that gets tiring in the end. With the new build I plan to spend more time enjoying the tank, than tinkering with lots of equipment. Moreover, I learned to have less fish and invertebrates , they are fun to look at it, but are the messiest component of a tank (clean-up crew is sometimes a bit of a misnomer). I plan to have just a few clowns, and mostly corals.
Bulk Reef Supply my 135 gal saltwater fish tank going on over 5 yrs no water changes doing amazing. Got a 29 gal all coral only do water changes maybe once a month. Then my 40 and 300 gal fish and coral tanks I just top off and add nutrients by hand every week. Keep it simple stupid. I have oversized sumps and skimmers on all mine. Cheers from California!
I'm trying a 25 Gallon (96 Litre) ULM Nano at the moment, Getting fantastic results so far with only a skimmer and 15% Weekly water changes. Adding a chiller soon for the upcoming Australian summer! Love you work here from Australia
All this to help me plan my first reef tank. Thinking around 160g , Mostly Soft . maybe some easy LPS . Simple Skimmer. Really want a decorative Fuge since I already do planted tanks. And an auto top off from a reservoir
I have a ULM tank. 42 gallons. Skimmer, two MP10s, Tunze ATO. I do a 10g water change every two weeks. I can do the water change in about 20 minutes. Tank is stocked with corals, mostly LPS and easy stuff. Hand dose every day - takes 1 minute. Never test water. Tank going on 5 years now.
Every new reefer should be pointed towards this video series starting out. It would cost you a small fortune to arrive at these conclusions through trial and error. Thanks BRS
I second all of Ryans comments. The current (and most succesful thus far) tank I'm currently running. IM 20 peninsula, auto water change, doser Tropic Marine all for reef, chaeto in 2nd chamber, UV in first chamber and filter floss. LPS and softies growing like weeds.
similar to mine, got a waterbox cube 20, auto waterchange, doser running all for reef and kalk thru tunze dispenser, no skimmer, no refugium and no reactors. filterfloss first chamber. got a mixed reef and growing like weeds(=
I loved this series. Ryan did a great job at clarifying that an ULM is can be achieved by choosing livestock to match your system and routine. I would expand that topic to fish selection, as well. For example, I avoid fishes that only eat frozen food, so the tank can run on an auto feeder when I go on holidays. I've been running an ULM tank, SPS dominated, for a couple of years and it was reassuring to see I am doing the pretty much the same as BRS. I thought I was the only person on earth dosing 2 part + Tropic Marine Part C :) I usually struggle to explain my system to other reefers, because for most people don't have low maintenance as their main priority. Next time I will refer them to this series. A couple of things that I also do, that weren't mentioned here: - No filter socks. One less thing to clean. - Skimmer neck cleaner and collection cup that drains into a container. It allows me to clean the skimmer it once a month, if I wanted. - Vinegar mixed with aminoacids. I dose vinegar as an organic carbon source and amino acids(AA) to help maintain natural corals. However, dosing AA manually wasn't low maintenance and I wasn't able to find a good and cheap source of AA, that could be plugged to a dosing pump. Some day it clicked, AA is food and Vinegar is used as food preservative, so I mixed them both and voilá. AA and Vinegar dosed automatically with a single dosing pump. - Small pumps in the sump, so it never needs to be siphoned. Cheers
Amen for auto water changes. I've never had a better tank than I do right now with my dos doing water changes. My time with the tank can be limited. With an auto water change system I never have to "catch up" on my water changes. I can use that time to test the water, position the corals, or clean the equipment in my tank.
Started my first nano a few months before you started this series! Certainly did a lot to shape my decisions and encourage me towards finding the lowest maintenance solutions possible, even though I couldn't resist a bit of an experimental approach :) Long post ahead, but only feels fair with how much the BRS crew commits to these videos. To share a bit of my experience for other ULM-seekers: My system is a 12 gallon long, only about 8" deep and wide, and 3' long. The core systems of the tank are a big HOB refugium with a Kessil Flora, and AutoAqua's AWC/ATO controller for water quality, lights are a 36" LED and 36" single-bulb T5 that I DIY'ed together, and 4 small powerheads for flow. My biggest successes have been the biggest rock flower nem I've ever seen, loads of GSP, and a bunch of different leathers. I've also kept two pistol shrimp and a number of small fish with no major illnesses or crashing. Current favorite fish are my 4 barnacle blennies, because they're tiny, don't need much territory, don't need open water to cruise in, and have loads of personality. The other big success is with it being a ULM! My maintenance is: -Pinch of pellet food every day, and a cube of mysis when I feel like it, about once every two weeks. -Cleaning glass once or twice a week. -Cleaning and filling saltwater and freshwater 10 gal reservoirs about once every 2 months. -Make a day out of deep-cleaning pumps and my other equipment about once every 4 months. That's it! Can't recommend that AWC/ATO enough. Very easy on the eyes even on a small tank, drains straight into my kitchen sink, apartment-rental-friendly levels of plumbing, and everything still working as intended a year later. This controller alone turned the limited stability of a small tank into an integral feature, as a daily 2% water change is such a small volume. Biggest problems have mostly stemmed from a terrible mix of crushed coral and sand - holds an incredible amounts of detritus, impossible to clean without clouding the entire tank, leads to just as much detritus in the refugium, gathers upwards of 3" deep in some spots. I went with this because I knew I wanted to give good construction materials to my pistol shrimp, but it's caused far more problems than it's fixed. Another big problem was too large of rocks that blocked a lot of flow and gathered tons of detritus too. Making changes towards smaller and less porous rocks that my flow can keep clean. I think largely stemming from these issues and some temp control problems that I figured out halfway in, I haven't had much luck keeping the LPS that I'm the most interested in alive. In fact, one of the biggest lessons I could share would be learning to appreciate what DOES like your tank and doubling down on that, vs constant changes to "chase" the things that appeal more. I promise, you'll have a lot more fun watching the same "easy mode" corals that everyone has growing into gorgeous, healthy colonies compared to watching a stunning $100 acan wither and die. Currently in the process of replacing all the sand with CaribSea special grade and trying some LPS again :) In short, my big pieces of advice on a ULM nano: -The introduction of mainstream, plug and play AWC/ATO systems into the hobby is, in my eyes, the biggest change we've seen in favor of nano tanks. -Investing in your water containers may be worth more than it seems. -Count on the fact that if any piece of maintenance is hard to do, there WILL be a time when you should do it but won't. -Once roughly established, let the tank tell YOU what corals it wants to grow! -Don't chase solutions to every single problem. Short of the more aggressive pests, or equipment failures, seems like most imbalances can be solved by keeping everything else stable and just giving it time, especially on a AWC system. -For the love of God don't use crushed coral mixed with sand, worst of both worlds! -Optimizing for pistol shrimp and optimizing for corals are a bit mutually exclusive. Bare-bottom would have been great, although they're family now :D -BRS kicks butt!
the brs wwc hybrid e 170sps thats a mouthful haha tanks looks so good, i've had freshwater tanks for over a decade. im finally looking at saltwater tanks, corals are just so cool
Ulm is doing a pico with a way to move the water and light and 100 percent water changes each week. But auto water changes is awsome and helps. Thought of doing this myself.
I’m trying to practically fully automate my tank, that is what I consider ULM, currently I have everything automated except for water changes and of course refilling reagents and my auto top off container, I have spent thousands of dollars on tank automation and I love my tank being automated , anything I can automate I will, I just want to be able to sit back and watch my tank without having to tinker or test or worry something is out of whack, I want clear water and beautiful corals, I honestly don’t think you can’t have a ULM tank without sophisticated equipment it’s just not a good idea and eventually you will loose life due to not knowing anything about your tank
Good video. I think the auto water change is amazing but we can't forget to do those good deep cleans. In my opinion a water change should always be done with the objective of removing as much detritus as possible!
If you have that tank line up still, it would be interesting to see the difference between different types of coral feeding which is always hotly debated.
I found this unclear in several ways. Most important, what precisely did you change in moving from the ULM SPS tank to the hybrid SPS tank? I also wonder about the bare bottom rationale. I've been researching this on and off for about six months. My take away is that a sand bed should be one-half inch with coarse media at about 3mm (e.g. Tropic Eden reef flakes). This sand bed will be aerobic everywhere, especially when you add different kinds of detrivores (e.g. certain snails, pods, micro brittle stars, worms). The best selection of detrivores is from Indo-Pacific Sea Farms (IPSF) which is also the source of my sand bed information. BRS apparently uses a too-fine medium that is way too deep. Some of that area is probably anaerobic (no oxygen) and much is anoxic (low oxygen). Detrivores won't go into these regions. BRS also vacuums up those few detrivores that happen to be there. AFTER ALL THIS BRS says the sand bed will eventually become the equivalent to a very dirty litter box. Well... yes because the living creatures who would "scoop out" the detritus are missing. A bare bottom tank *must* be vacuumed or the detritus sent into the water column regularly for filtration because there is nothing to eat the detritus. To me that does not seem to be ULM or simple. I also note that macroalgae are nowhere to be seen. Again, this seems strange to me. There are only two simple ways to convert nitrate into nitrogen gas: algae or a deep sand bed. The latter is problematic in a real life setting for various reasons, and it will do little for phosphate. So algae is the logical, low-cost, simple approach. The Tunze macroalgae reactor, which can be run outside the tank, may be ideal. I may be mistaken. That's ok. Just explain where. PS: as most people leave the hobby within one year, it seems that adopting a bare bottom approach that is especially difficult in year one is problematic. PPS: I don't mean to be a jerk. I apologize if I come across that way. PPPS: I did *not* downvote this article. I upvoted it. It was a serious effort.
I’d still love to see you guys try to do AWC’s for a month or so with the x1 dosers. That WiFi capability would let me put an AIO basically anywhere in my house🤯.
Anyone thinking of getting into the hobby all in ones are great (pipes leak and break sumps overflow) but don't spend extra on the equipment that comes with it even the lights (even if they claim they can grow coral). You will end up upgrading everything. Also, stay off of reef forums. There is a lot of bad advice on there and people are just not honest at all. Spend the most on lighting do not go cheap on lighting. Again reefers on reef forums will tell you that they are growing everything under some cheap DIY, ai prime (good option but won't grow everything), or pc lighting (there is no such thing as a budget reef) but the fact is they didn't start the coral from frags they bought a big piece and it was under heavier lighting at an LFS and they just recently put it in the tank. Again don't spend more on flashy equipment. A media bag will work if you can't afford a reactor, spend that extra money on lighting. Corals will still grow without a reactor or skimmer. They wont grow with bad lighting. Only take advice from credited people in the business such as BRS and Mr. SaltwaterTank. Non-credited sources are extremely dishonest or they don't know enough to give good advice just stuff they got lucky with (and now think they will get some free shit if they advertise it). You can fool anyone in this game with an iPhone with special camera lighting and filters. Happy Reefing
Now this is some good advice and I wish I would have seen this when I started, I killed thousands of dollars worth of corals with cheap lights not only did my tank start thriving when I upgraded my light but my corals looked better and grew faster instead of bleaching and melting and dying and causing my tank to crash , DONT CHEAP OUT ON YOUR LIGHTS!!!
My idea of a Low maintenance tank: 150 gallons. 6 small fish. (3-4 inches) 15 soft corals, 0 hard corals. lots of macro algae. No motile invertebrates. No clams. Protein skimmer, UV. Might not be that beautiful- but would be very clean.
Ulm ....the proper tank inhabitants....for example ....sand in the tank....get a sand sifting goby or starfish....or snails....do wc ....make em easy ....ULM
So pretty much ULM works great when you don't have fish, only have coral in for a few weeks and have a staff to do the work. eThis episode is probably the most honest about this approach where BRS eats humble pie and industry vendors don't lose face. Please talk more about the rock. It's all we got available to us now and is what anyone new is using so maybe we can have a honest conversation about what to really expect when using it. Luv ya Ryan.
Thanks for the feedback!. If you never eat crow you probably are not being honest :) That said, this one was called a "tank trial" for a reason, we didn't know the outcome going in and it was a long journey. I think the series finale or results delivered on what we set out to do which is find some ways to make reefing easier for those who have prioritized that. Not just some generic advice but tied to some actual approaches reefers got to follow along with and see the results first hand.
Believe it or not, but my tank seems to be doing better when I don't touch it nor do water changes. (Cleaning is not an issue cause I got an army of tangs)
this is way funny it seems like in the salt water hobby they look down on the way fresh water does their tanks and then come to find out the best way to do low maintenance is do as freshwater do change water :P
As an owner of fresh and salt i think there is just a big difference in mentalities. In a salt large salt water tank water changes are expensive and time consuming so reducing them saves money and time. Howerer on the fresh water side pepole who try to reduce water changes are viewed as lazy which is kind of sad tbh since there are many ways that inovations in the salt water hobby can be used on fw tanks but dont get used or talked about.
When using a DOS it helps create stability, and reduces the maintenance required by quite a bit! This is not the only aspect, but definitely a helpful one. 🙂
Based on the size of the tank I would be looking at either a Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5, or 2.0. I would measure the back compartment to double check compatibility dependent on size restraints. :)
That’s one thing why I think many people don’t get into reefing…. You use too many LEtters, you don’t describe what you’re talking about, what is a ULM, U170, an SPS tank, or an Ultra low maintenance tank. So , what do you say.?
This video is part of a larger series. We lay out what ULM means in a previous video. Spoiler alert: It means Ultra Low Maintenance 🙂 Here is a link to the full playlist if you wanted to watch the videos in order ruclips.net/video/tLsa8scMhjI/видео.html
Solarris on the weeks that you don’t clean your sand bed, get yourself a turkey baster and fluff up the sand just so you don’t have to worry about nutrient problems. 👍👍✌️✌️
This is not what we could call Ultra Low Maintenance tanks^^ A deep sand bed/Jaubert Method with Softies and Lps and very low fish livestock, no skimmer, no water changes.. that is ULM^^
There are definitely a lot of acronyms used in our hobby. This is a great list to reference if you're ever stumped 🙂 www.reef2reef.com/ams/acronyms-and-abbreviations-for-the-reef-aquarist.535/
You lost me when you said youre only dosing once a day. my fresh water tanks are just too easy, i only refill the auto food every 30 days. If it needs anything i just the plant to animal to do it for me and have to touch it for months.
Why can’t you guys just speak English. I just want to how how to start a tank I don’t have to change water in too often!!! This is why the hobby is so intimidating to peoplep
Do you think you'll try out a ULM Tank?
I think a ULM tank is the way to go. I based my build off this and the WWC series. My first tank, that I sold to a friend, was too complicated, required too much maintenance, and ultimately that gets tiring in the end. With the new build I plan to spend more time enjoying the tank, than tinkering with lots of equipment. Moreover, I learned to have less fish and invertebrates , they are fun to look at it, but are the messiest component of a tank (clean-up crew is sometimes a bit of a misnomer). I plan to have just a few clowns, and mostly corals.
Bulk Reef Supply my 135 gal saltwater fish tank going on over 5 yrs no water changes doing amazing. Got a 29 gal all coral only do water changes maybe once a month. Then my 40 and 300 gal fish and coral tanks I just top off and add nutrients by hand every week. Keep it simple stupid. I have oversized sumps and skimmers on all mine. Cheers from California!
Had 120 reef did 20% water change a week. Coral growth was great.
I'm trying a 25 Gallon (96 Litre) ULM Nano at the moment, Getting fantastic results so far with only a skimmer and 15% Weekly water changes.
Adding a chiller soon for the upcoming Australian summer!
Love you work here from Australia
All this to help me plan my first reef tank.
Thinking around 160g , Mostly Soft . maybe some easy LPS . Simple Skimmer. Really want a decorative Fuge since I already do planted tanks. And an auto top off from a reservoir
I have a ULM tank. 42 gallons. Skimmer, two MP10s, Tunze ATO. I do a 10g water change every two weeks. I can do the water change in about 20 minutes. Tank is stocked with corals, mostly LPS and easy stuff. Hand dose every day - takes 1 minute. Never test water. Tank going on 5 years now.
What do u dose
Dose every day? That’s a lot. My idea of low maintenance is once a month for anything
@@auralplex you only dose once a month? I dose every other day and I honestly should every day
Every new reefer should be pointed towards this video series starting out. It would cost you a small fortune to arrive at these conclusions through trial and error. Thanks BRS
The problem with no sand is you lose the ability to keep certain fish, inverts etc.
It's not too hard to gravel vacuum Just do it every water change
@@xhongxina286thank you zhong xina
I second all of Ryans comments. The current (and most succesful thus far) tank I'm currently running. IM 20 peninsula, auto water change, doser Tropic Marine all for reef, chaeto in 2nd chamber, UV in first chamber and filter floss. LPS and softies growing like weeds.
similar to mine, got a waterbox cube 20, auto waterchange, doser running all for reef and kalk thru tunze dispenser, no skimmer, no refugium and no reactors. filterfloss first chamber. got a mixed reef and growing like weeds(=
Nifilheimur why all for reef and kalk?
I loved this series. Ryan did a great job at clarifying that an ULM is can be achieved by choosing livestock to match your system and routine. I would expand that topic to fish selection, as well. For example, I avoid fishes that only eat frozen food, so the tank can run on an auto feeder when I go on holidays.
I've been running an ULM tank, SPS dominated, for a couple of years and it was reassuring to see I am doing the pretty much the same as BRS. I thought I was the only person on earth dosing 2 part + Tropic Marine Part C :)
I usually struggle to explain my system to other reefers, because for most people don't have low maintenance as their main priority. Next time I will refer them to this series.
A couple of things that I also do, that weren't mentioned here:
- No filter socks. One less thing to clean.
- Skimmer neck cleaner and collection cup that drains into a container. It allows me to clean the skimmer it once a month, if I wanted.
- Vinegar mixed with aminoacids. I dose vinegar as an organic carbon source and amino acids(AA) to help maintain natural corals. However, dosing AA manually wasn't low maintenance and I wasn't able to find a good and cheap source of AA, that could be plugged to a dosing pump. Some day it clicked, AA is food and Vinegar is used as food preservative, so I mixed them both and voilá. AA and Vinegar dosed automatically with a single dosing pump.
- Small pumps in the sump, so it never needs to be siphoned.
Cheers
Amen for auto water changes. I've never had a better tank than I do right now with my dos doing water changes. My time with the tank can be limited. With an auto water change system I never have to "catch up" on my water changes. I can use that time to test the water, position the corals, or clean the equipment in my tank.
Started my first nano a few months before you started this series! Certainly did a lot to shape my decisions and encourage me towards finding the lowest maintenance solutions possible, even though I couldn't resist a bit of an experimental approach :)
Long post ahead, but only feels fair with how much the BRS crew commits to these videos. To share a bit of my experience for other ULM-seekers: My system is a 12 gallon long, only about 8" deep and wide, and 3' long. The core systems of the tank are a big HOB refugium with a Kessil Flora, and AutoAqua's AWC/ATO controller for water quality, lights are a 36" LED and 36" single-bulb T5 that I DIY'ed together, and 4 small powerheads for flow.
My biggest successes have been the biggest rock flower nem I've ever seen, loads of GSP, and a bunch of different leathers. I've also kept two pistol shrimp and a number of small fish with no major illnesses or crashing. Current favorite fish are my 4 barnacle blennies, because they're tiny, don't need much territory, don't need open water to cruise in, and have loads of personality. The other big success is with it being a ULM! My maintenance is:
-Pinch of pellet food every day, and a cube of mysis when I feel like it, about once every two weeks.
-Cleaning glass once or twice a week.
-Cleaning and filling saltwater and freshwater 10 gal reservoirs about once every 2 months.
-Make a day out of deep-cleaning pumps and my other equipment about once every 4 months.
That's it! Can't recommend that AWC/ATO enough. Very easy on the eyes even on a small tank, drains straight into my kitchen sink, apartment-rental-friendly levels of plumbing, and everything still working as intended a year later. This controller alone turned the limited stability of a small tank into an integral feature, as a daily 2% water change is such a small volume.
Biggest problems have mostly stemmed from a terrible mix of crushed coral and sand - holds an incredible amounts of detritus, impossible to clean without clouding the entire tank, leads to just as much detritus in the refugium, gathers upwards of 3" deep in some spots. I went with this because I knew I wanted to give good construction materials to my pistol shrimp, but it's caused far more problems than it's fixed. Another big problem was too large of rocks that blocked a lot of flow and gathered tons of detritus too. Making changes towards smaller and less porous rocks that my flow can keep clean. I think largely stemming from these issues and some temp control problems that I figured out halfway in, I haven't had much luck keeping the LPS that I'm the most interested in alive. In fact, one of the biggest lessons I could share would be learning to appreciate what DOES like your tank and doubling down on that, vs constant changes to "chase" the things that appeal more. I promise, you'll have a lot more fun watching the same "easy mode" corals that everyone has growing into gorgeous, healthy colonies compared to watching a stunning $100 acan wither and die. Currently in the process of replacing all the sand with CaribSea special grade and trying some LPS again :)
In short, my big pieces of advice on a ULM nano:
-The introduction of mainstream, plug and play AWC/ATO systems into the hobby is, in my eyes, the biggest change we've seen in favor of nano tanks.
-Investing in your water containers may be worth more than it seems.
-Count on the fact that if any piece of maintenance is hard to do, there WILL be a time when you should do it but won't.
-Once roughly established, let the tank tell YOU what corals it wants to grow!
-Don't chase solutions to every single problem. Short of the more aggressive pests, or equipment failures, seems like most imbalances can be solved by keeping everything else stable and just giving it time, especially on a AWC system.
-For the love of God don't use crushed coral mixed with sand, worst of both worlds!
-Optimizing for pistol shrimp and optimizing for corals are a bit mutually exclusive. Bare-bottom would have been great, although they're family now :D
-BRS kicks butt!
Thank you so much for sharing your journey with the community and the kind words :)
Nick Evano Try Tropic Eden Reef flakes instead. Half-inch depth. Great and very educational post.
You are speaking to my soul... thank you for taking the time to test and share with the rest of us
Is it still ULM if I spend hundreds of hours watching BRS videos?
😂 First time we have heard this one!
the brs wwc hybrid e 170sps
thats a mouthful haha tanks looks so good, i've had freshwater tanks for over a decade.
im finally looking at saltwater tanks, corals are just so cool
Ulm is doing a pico with a way to move the water and light and 100 percent water changes each week. But auto water changes is awsome and helps. Thought of doing this myself.
I’m trying to practically fully automate my tank, that is what I consider ULM, currently I have everything automated except for water changes and of course refilling reagents and my auto top off container, I have spent thousands of dollars on tank automation and I love my tank being automated , anything I can automate I will, I just want to be able to sit back and watch my tank without having to tinker or test or worry something is out of whack, I want clear water and beautiful corals, I honestly don’t think you can’t have a ULM tank without sophisticated equipment it’s just not a good idea and eventually you will loose life due to not knowing anything about your tank
Good video. I think the auto water change is amazing but we can't forget to do those good deep cleans. In my opinion a water change should always be done with the objective of removing as much detritus as possible!
I love watching you guys This channel is the push I need to start my my tank
If you have that tank line up still, it would be interesting to see the difference between different types of coral feeding which is always hotly debated.
please show us more on the tropic marin all for reef or the other product carbo-calcium. Great update. thanks.
We will look into doing this for future videos! 🙂
Lol I used to change the water once every 2 months in my African cichlids tank. None of my fish ever got sick and the tank looked great.
I found this unclear in several ways. Most important, what precisely did you change in moving from the ULM SPS tank to the hybrid SPS tank?
I also wonder about the bare bottom rationale. I've been researching this on and off for about six months. My take away is that a sand bed should be one-half inch with coarse media at about 3mm (e.g. Tropic Eden reef flakes). This sand bed will be aerobic everywhere, especially when you add different kinds of detrivores (e.g. certain snails, pods, micro brittle stars, worms). The best selection of detrivores is from Indo-Pacific Sea Farms (IPSF) which is also the source of my sand bed information.
BRS apparently uses a too-fine medium that is way too deep. Some of that area is probably anaerobic (no oxygen) and much is anoxic (low oxygen). Detrivores won't go into these regions. BRS also vacuums up those few detrivores that happen to be there.
AFTER ALL THIS BRS says the sand bed will eventually become the equivalent to a very dirty litter box. Well... yes because the living creatures who would "scoop out" the detritus are missing. A bare bottom tank *must* be vacuumed or the detritus sent into the water column regularly for filtration because there is nothing to eat the detritus. To me that does not seem to be ULM or simple.
I also note that macroalgae are nowhere to be seen. Again, this seems strange to me. There are only two simple ways to convert nitrate into nitrogen gas: algae or a deep sand bed. The latter is problematic in a real life setting for various reasons, and it will do little for phosphate. So algae is the logical, low-cost, simple approach. The Tunze macroalgae reactor, which can be run outside the tank, may be ideal.
I may be mistaken. That's ok. Just explain where.
PS: as most people leave the hobby within one year, it seems that adopting a bare bottom approach that is especially difficult in year one is problematic.
PPS: I don't mean to be a jerk. I apologize if I come across that way.
PPPS: I did *not* downvote this article. I upvoted it. It was a serious effort.
Not a jerk at all!
Wonderful comment 💯
Great comprehensive video!
I’d still love to see you guys try to do AWC’s for a month or so with the x1 dosers. That WiFi capability would let me put an AIO basically anywhere in my house🤯.
Very cool summary - Thanks Ryan!
Sand allows more surface area for periphyton to grow, providing more micro food particles, like natural reefs.
Been waiting. Awesome episode as always guys :)
Anyone thinking of getting into the hobby all in ones are great (pipes leak and break sumps overflow) but don't spend extra on the equipment that comes with it even the lights (even if they claim they can grow coral). You will end up upgrading everything. Also, stay off of reef forums. There is a lot of bad advice on there and people are just not honest at all. Spend the most on lighting do not go cheap on lighting. Again reefers on reef forums will tell you that they are growing everything under some cheap DIY, ai prime (good option but won't grow everything), or pc lighting (there is no such thing as a budget reef) but the fact is they didn't start the coral from frags they bought a big piece and it was under heavier lighting at an LFS and they just recently put it in the tank. Again don't spend more on flashy equipment. A media bag will work if you can't afford a reactor, spend that extra money on lighting. Corals will still grow without a reactor or skimmer. They wont grow with bad lighting. Only take advice from credited people in the business such as BRS and Mr. SaltwaterTank. Non-credited sources are extremely dishonest or they don't know enough to give good advice just stuff they got lucky with (and now think they will get some free shit if they advertise it). You can fool anyone in this game with an iPhone with special camera lighting and filters. Happy Reefing
Now this is some good advice and I wish I would have seen this when I started, I killed thousands of dollars worth of corals with cheap lights not only did my tank start thriving when I upgraded my light but my corals looked better and grew faster instead of bleaching and melting and dying and causing my tank to crash , DONT CHEAP OUT ON YOUR LIGHTS!!!
My idea of a Low maintenance tank:
150 gallons.
6 small fish. (3-4 inches)
15 soft corals, 0 hard corals.
lots of macro algae.
No motile invertebrates. No clams.
Protein skimmer, UV.
Might not be that beautiful- but would be very clean.
Ulm ....the proper tank inhabitants....for example ....sand in the tank....get a sand sifting goby or starfish....or snails....do wc ....make em easy ....ULM
So pretty much ULM works great when you don't have fish, only have coral in for a few weeks and have a staff to do the work. eThis episode is probably the most honest about this approach where BRS eats humble pie and industry vendors don't lose face. Please talk more about the rock. It's all we got available to us now and is what anyone new is using so maybe we can have a honest conversation about what to really expect when using it. Luv ya Ryan.
Thanks for the feedback!. If you never eat crow you probably are not being honest :) That said, this one was called a "tank trial" for a reason, we didn't know the outcome going in and it was a long journey. I think the series finale or results delivered on what we set out to do which is find some ways to make reefing easier for those who have prioritized that. Not just some generic advice but tied to some actual approaches reefers got to follow along with and see the results first hand.
7:13 - Amen, brother!
I'm sold on the Red Sea "E" series the nice thing is I can add a sump/refugium without having to drain the tank.
Very interesting approach!
Believe it or not, but my tank seems to be doing better when I don't touch it nor do water changes. (Cleaning is not an issue cause I got an army of tangs)
Any alternatives to the Tropic Marine All-for-Reef? It's not available in our country, we Seachem though...
You should invite @ricosaquariums and @innapropriatereefer to your house for new tank build 🔥🔥
SkyHiggh Reef definitely inappropriate reefer
Need to do a video on the auto water change system
this is way funny it seems like in the salt water hobby they look down on the way fresh water does their tanks and then come to find out the best way to do low maintenance is do as freshwater do change water :P
Tyler Live rock is freshwater? A skimmer is freshwater?
skzion2 nope and I’m glad it makes life more simple
@@TylerOstergaard Yes, but freshwater fish are so boring. Difference of opinion I guess.
FlightEvolution different opinion for sure :)
As an owner of fresh and salt i think there is just a big difference in mentalities. In a salt large salt water tank water changes are expensive and time consuming so reducing them saves money and time. Howerer on the fresh water side pepole who try to reduce water changes are viewed as lazy which is kind of sad tbh since there are many ways that inovations in the salt water hobby can be used on fw tanks but dont get used or talked about.
Hey guys great videos!! at the 6:54 mark, those 2 tall tanks, what is the brand of those tanks or where do you get them? Thanks!!
Go to their other videos and they say you are better off using sand. Just adds to the confusion
IMO a good way to have an ULM is having a dsb in a large sump.
Benefits Of Deep Sand Bed? Please Explain
The dsb allows to have aerobic and anaeobic bacterias in order to reduce nutrients (NH4 > NO2 > NO3 > N)
with that amount of fish in a small tank (6 i think in the softie tank) what do your phosphates and nitrates run at?
i have a ULM tank that I don't even feed, water change, dosing or whatsoever. I just watch it on youtube LOL
What brand tanks are in the background? I have a 36 fluval and looking to upgrade to around a 60 gallon.
What kind of Syphon hose was that ? I like it where can I buy?
This is called a Python! You can find this one our website. 🙂
What green coral is that at the back on the RHS of the first tank?
Looks beautiful 😍🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
This would be a toadstool coral! Hopefully this is the one you were referencing!
@@BRStv Thanks for the response! It's the green tree looking one to the right of the toadstool, Swaying like tree branches in the wind
Changing water is the main approach to run ULNS on new tanks ?
When using a DOS it helps create stability, and reduces the maintenance required by quite a bit! This is not the only aspect, but definitely a helpful one. 🙂
What’s the cost of the set up you noted as best ULM?
Just bought a 40.2 waterbox all in one what would be the best return pump to run on it so i can get it ordered from you guys
Based on the size of the tank I would be looking at either a Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5, or 2.0. I would measure the back compartment to double check compatibility dependent on size restraints. :)
Since there’s no refugium in an all in one tank, what do you guys do to keep nitrates and phosphates down other than water changes?
You could use nano skimmers, bio media, and reactors potentially. Scheduled water changes are the best solution on a small volume tank though. :)
Bulk Reef Supply thank you!
Eliminate sand cleaning by establishing a Jaubert system plenum!
What nano tanks are these? INovated marine?
These were Marineland 60g Cubes, and there was a 30g IM tank that appeared briefly as well! 🙂
That’s one thing why I think many people don’t get into reefing…. You use too many LEtters, you don’t describe what you’re talking about, what is a ULM, U170, an SPS tank, or an Ultra low maintenance tank. So , what do you say.?
This video is part of a larger series. We lay out what ULM means in a previous video. Spoiler alert: It means Ultra Low Maintenance 🙂
Here is a link to the full playlist if you wanted to watch the videos in order
ruclips.net/video/tLsa8scMhjI/видео.html
I had an almost 0 maintenance tank but it was crashed during hurricane sandy 😩
Sorry to hear that 😢
Every time I do water changes I clean sand (once a week maybe 2 weeks) is that good or bad?
Solarris on the weeks that you don’t clean your sand bed, get yourself a turkey baster and fluff up the sand just so you don’t have to worry about nutrient problems. 👍👍✌️✌️
@@brianculater6444 I meant sometimes I do water changes after 2 weeks. I always clean sand when changing water.
Solarris oh okay then that’s good but always clean your sandbed every 3 or 4 days. I wouldn’t wait longer than that. That’s how I do mine anyway. 👍
Why aren't you guys selling the All for Reef Powder?
It's not available in North America quite yet, but should be very soon. Tropic Marin is targeting February.
Sounds like money to me
This is not what we could call Ultra Low Maintenance tanks^^ A deep sand bed/Jaubert Method with Softies and Lps and very low fish livestock, no skimmer, no water changes.. that is ULM^^
If i cant just leave it alone for a month thats not LOW MAINTENCE
Noobs watching this like wth are all these acronyms. Whats SBS. ULM was the only one defined.
There are definitely a lot of acronyms used in our hobby. This is a great list to reference if you're ever stumped 🙂
www.reef2reef.com/ams/acronyms-and-abbreviations-for-the-reef-aquarist.535/
Ulm starves corals
You lost me when you said youre only dosing once a day. my fresh water tanks are just too easy, i only refill the auto food every 30 days. If it needs anything i just the plant to animal to do it for me and have to touch it for months.
Fortunately, automatic dosing systems aren't very expensive and can do that job for you
@@BRStv well your lowest maintenance tank that you came up with didn't have it so how would we know.
Why can’t you guys just speak English. I just want to how how to start a tank I don’t have to change water in too often!!! This is why the hobby is so intimidating to peoplep