I'm very happy to have found this video. Please keep them coming. I have a 1948 CJ2A with the L134. I've had it for 4 months. It runs and drives great, but will need advanced work done eventually. I plan on keeping the Jeep for a long time, so in depth videos like yours are exactly what I need to prepare for the day that I'm doing what you are now. In addition to having an application for what I learn here, I also just find it fascinating. I like the pace of the video and amount of information that you give. Looking forward to the next one.
The proper way to check Main & rod bearing clearances is with either a bore gage and micrometers or ‘plastigauge’. There should be a specific thrust bearing clearance as well as connecting rod clearance (lateral).
I would like to suggest to all viewers that (among other things) all bolt holes should be inspected, cleaned, and the threads “chased”. Any threads that your fingernail can catch on around the threaded hole should be carefully filed / sanded down.
Okay first thing, LUBE the hell out of those bearings before putting crank or cam in!! GM makes a very good assembly lube. It is very affordable and good at preventing scuffing on the bearings at startup! Make sure you lube up all the lobes on the cam before putting it in too. They are a right proper bear to lube up after the fact. I understand you wanting to test fit. Do so with great care otherwise you will be either back into that motor in a very short time or buying new bearings! Those NOS bearings scuff easily and really are easy to deform, been there done that. As I am watching you work there are so many things I would do before assembly. Deburr, deflash and clean the block . Some builders with tell you it doesn't make a difference, it does. Going through, deflashing and knocking off all the sharp points is not only good for stopping new cracks, but can improve oil return to the sump! Can make life easier on the builder too! Like most of us shadetree builders it is going to be a full time job to keep the block from rusting between build times. Use motor oil not WD40. WD40 is a good product but it has a solvent built into it. This solvent can get down into the motor and wash away the assembly lube on bearings. All of the WD type sprays have this solvent! Do your best to keep it clean during the build and you will reduce the chance of F.O.D. in the oil galleries. I see you have little crumb crunchers. They love to help dad I am sure! Watch out they don't leave you "extra parts". I came on your videos late, so I am still wondering why you repaired that block? Is that the block your jeep was built with? Are those blocks that hard to find in England? If eithers the case it is worth it. But here in the states those go devil motors can still be found and while not cheap, they are affordable. I have helped build two of those motors and did third one mostly by myself. I didn't put in harden valves, valve guides and seats during my rebuild.( All of our gas here in the states is both unleaded and has minimum of 10% alcohol in it.) I ended up having to do all that valve work again at 12K miles. That was with using a "lead substitute". Not a cheap option going to these upgraded valve items but one I can recommend after 20 years and still going strong. I can also recommend you use the new style crank oil seals. So much better than the old seals, not sure what the material is but it has outlasted the old seal by a lot!. You lean a lot about what went right and wrong on the second build. I have another go devil motor for a 1944 MB that I hope to have the funds this summer to rebuild. I'll try to post something once I get it going. My biggest fear is this motor has sat for 40 years and I have no idea why the owner took this motor out before he passed away? Good to see another old vet saved from scrap and put back on the road. Keep on chugging and I look forward to your next video!
@@Greendot319 quick question mate...is there a cam bearing and a bushing for the rest of the cam that needs to be replaced on the L134 like on an overhead V8 or just the main cam bearing at the front?
For those who see this video. This is how NOT to assemble a engine. its tight because you put it in dry. you have to use assembly lube . lots of it. also you have to check your crank bearing clearance you can't just put it in there. I just hope people read the comments before doing this.
16:40 ... Nope! ... In the factory they just oil self sizing bearings and stick the cam in ... and they fit them selves 2 seconds after the engine starts! :)
Thanks Mike, I suppose they do just wear themselves in straight away? It didn't take too much to wind it in, just more than I expected. Allowing the engine to do it itself probably saves the damaged to the bearing as you take it in and out multiple times
@@Greendot319 ... I'm not 100% sure .. the way you did it, seems a bit better. That way you KNOW it has clearance for oil/assembly lube in there when it starts, no chance of it running dry.
it's certainly unusual but its is old tech, I dont think there is anyway to get it in without doing what I did. Once its turned a few revolutions starting I think it will just be fully seated and sorted!
I've got Jeffreyeng to restore my engine,transmission and gearbox, unfortunately my jeep was very old and very rusty so the motor needs new everything. The next jeep i do i will rebuild the engine myself as i wont pick one that was as rusty and hadn't run in a long long time.
That sounds good, Jeffrey engineering appear very knowledgable and want to do things the right way so it sounds like you should be good. Picking the right project to start with can be difficult, theh can all be restored but it just depends on how long a d how much money you are willing to pay!
@@Greendot319 how have you found restoring your old engine? I've just watched your video on the tub from whitedell, i saw the pictures they posted now i'm able to put 1+1 together! :D
I dont think its self sizing bearing. If the shell is put in a a slight angle at the start, it won't be round. Had this on my GPW engine. Stick the cam in backwards, slightly wiggle it and it will become round again.
First of all my brother you just don't put oil on your bearings and spin it use assembly Lube definitely you don't put an old worn-out camshaft in with new bearings use assembly Lube use your new cam assembly Lube on everything the more you play with it the more damage you do good luck cheers mate
@@Greendot319 Well, to be fair the video is titled First Assembly, not Test Fitting. FWIW, I recommend using assembly lube even for test fitting and recommend replacing that self-fitting cam bearing before you go any further. It's been scored to the point that it will likely leak or fail if you leave it in there. Assembly lube makes this type of scoring less likely. Sorry if I seem like an arm-chair expert. It's easy to nit-pick the work of others as we don't see all the preparation and hard work that went into producing your video. Keep up the good work. I enjoy seeing you resurrect a piece of history.
No Problem Stephen, always happen to listen to input! The Bearing may look scored but it really isn't, its a very soft white metal and no force went into it, it shows up any touch no matter how light and you cant feel any of the marks. I would imagine that as the engine is run and the cam seats itself properly all of those marks will quickly disappear, I don't think it would be possible to fit the camshaft without something showing on the bearing, it seems unusual but that's the way it is with this old tech! cheers Matt
10:44 ... Perhaps at some point Ford was making the camshafts for both?? I mean if not on the production Willy's Jeeps, maybe for the replacement market, for both, at the time?
Авто/Мото
looks like every replacement part was made and packaged with pride .
Definitely use assembly lube, even on test fits. I use Torco MPZ Engine Assembly Lube and a bottle lasts forever!
I'm very happy to have found this video. Please keep them coming. I have a 1948 CJ2A with the L134. I've had it for 4 months. It runs and drives great, but will need advanced work done eventually. I plan on keeping the Jeep for a long time, so in depth videos like yours are exactly what I need to prepare for the day that I'm doing what you are now. In addition to having an application for what I learn here, I also just find it fascinating. I like the pace of the video and amount of information that you give. Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks, that's all very kind of you to say. It is difficult to judge how to pitch the videos so I'm pleased they work for you, cheers Matt
The proper way to check Main & rod bearing clearances is with either a bore gage and micrometers or ‘plastigauge’. There should be a specific thrust bearing clearance as well as connecting rod clearance (lateral).
I can see smoke on the horizon....Engines, Lounge rooms and relationships have never mixed well 😂
I think shes going to let me back in the house one day?
I would like to suggest to all viewers that (among other things) all bolt holes should be inspected, cleaned, and the threads “chased”. Any threads that your fingernail can catch on around the threaded hole should be carefully filed / sanded down.
Should use some cam lube and assembly lube on there
I install the camshaft before the crank. That way I can reach in and support the cam better.
Okay first thing, LUBE the hell out of those bearings before putting crank or cam in!! GM makes a very good assembly lube. It is very affordable and good at preventing scuffing on the bearings at startup! Make sure you lube up all the lobes on the cam before putting it in too. They are a right proper bear to lube up after the fact. I understand you wanting to test fit. Do so with great care otherwise you will be either back into that motor in a very short time or buying new bearings! Those NOS bearings scuff easily and really are easy to deform, been there done that. As I am watching you work there are so many things I would do before assembly. Deburr, deflash and clean the block . Some builders with tell you it doesn't make a difference, it does. Going through, deflashing and knocking off all the sharp points is not only good for stopping new cracks, but can improve oil return to the sump! Can make life easier on the builder too! Like most of us shadetree builders it is going to be a full time job to keep the block from rusting between build times. Use motor oil not WD40. WD40 is a good product but it has a solvent built into it. This solvent can get down into the motor and wash away the assembly lube on bearings. All of the WD type sprays have this solvent! Do your best to keep it clean during the build and you will reduce the chance of F.O.D. in the oil galleries. I see you have little crumb crunchers. They love to help dad I am sure! Watch out they don't leave you "extra parts".
I came on your videos late, so I am still wondering why you repaired that block? Is that the block your jeep was built with? Are those blocks that hard to find in England? If eithers the case it is worth it. But here in the states those go devil motors can still be found and while not cheap, they are affordable. I have helped build two of those motors and did third one mostly by myself. I didn't put in harden valves, valve guides and seats during my rebuild.( All of our gas here in the states is both unleaded and has minimum of 10% alcohol in it.) I ended up having to do all that valve work again at 12K miles. That was with using a "lead substitute". Not a cheap option going to these upgraded valve items but one I can recommend after 20 years and still going strong. I can also recommend you use the new style crank oil seals. So much better than the old seals, not sure what the material is but it has outlasted the old seal by a lot!. You lean a lot about what went right and wrong on the second build. I have another go devil motor for a 1944 MB that I hope to have the funds this summer to rebuild. I'll try to post something once I get it going. My biggest fear is this motor has sat for 40 years and I have no idea why the owner took this motor out before he passed away? Good to see another old vet saved from scrap and put back on the road. Keep on chugging and I look forward to your next video!
Brilliant video mate, this kind of assembly video is exactly what I'm looking for for when I get around to doing my three blocks this year.
No Problem, i'll try and show it all, its quite straight forward, just needs to be done carefully!
@@Greendot319 quick question mate...is there a cam bearing and a bushing for the rest of the cam that needs to be replaced on the L134 like on an overhead V8 or just the main cam bearing at the front?
I hope to build a World War Two Jeep some day.
keep watching and you will ;)
Greendot 319 :D
For those who see this video. This is how NOT to assemble a engine. its tight because you put it in dry. you have to use assembly lube . lots of it. also you have to check your crank bearing clearance you can't just put it in there. I just hope people read the comments before doing this.
I like save the n.o.s packaging
16:40 ... Nope! ... In the factory they just oil self sizing bearings and stick the cam in ... and they fit them selves 2 seconds after the engine starts! :)
Thanks Mike, I suppose they do just wear themselves in straight away? It didn't take too much to wind it in, just more than I expected. Allowing the engine to do it itself probably saves the damaged to the bearing as you take it in and out multiple times
@@Greendot319 ... I'm not 100% sure .. the way you did it, seems a bit better. That way you KNOW it has clearance for oil/assembly lube in there when it starts, no chance of it running dry.
it's certainly unusual but its is old tech, I dont think there is anyway to get it in without doing what I did. Once its turned a few revolutions starting I think it will just be fully seated and sorted!
so jealous. this is amazing.
this how not to assemble a engine.
I've got Jeffreyeng to restore my engine,transmission and gearbox, unfortunately my jeep was very old and very rusty so the motor needs new everything. The next jeep i do i will rebuild the engine myself as i wont pick one that was as rusty and hadn't run in a long long time.
That sounds good, Jeffrey engineering appear very knowledgable and want to do things the right way so it sounds like you should be good. Picking the right project to start with can be difficult, theh can all be restored but it just depends on how long a d how much money you are willing to pay!
@@Greendot319 how have you found restoring your old engine?
I've just watched your video on the tub from whitedell, i saw the pictures they posted now i'm able to put 1+1 together! :D
I dont think its self sizing bearing. If the shell is put in a a slight angle at the start, it won't be round. Had this on my GPW engine. Stick the cam in backwards, slightly wiggle it and it will become round again.
Nice
Do you save the old boxes?
yes :)
Wow
First of all my brother you just don't put oil on your bearings and spin it use assembly Lube definitely you don't put an old worn-out camshaft in with new bearings use assembly Lube use your new cam assembly Lube on everything the more you play with it the more damage you do good luck cheers mate
I'm surprised that I didn't see you apply any assembly lube to the shafts and bearings.
Its only test fitting, lots of 10w40 oil. I'll apply assembly lube once I assemble it for the final time ;) thanks Matt
@@Greendot319 Well, to be fair the video is titled First Assembly, not Test Fitting. FWIW, I recommend using assembly lube even for test fitting and recommend replacing that self-fitting cam bearing before you go any further. It's been scored to the point that it will likely leak or fail if you leave it in there. Assembly lube makes this type of scoring less likely. Sorry if I seem like an arm-chair expert. It's easy to nit-pick the work of others as we don't see all the preparation and hard work that went into producing your video. Keep up the good work. I enjoy seeing you resurrect a piece of history.
No Problem Stephen, always happen to listen to input! The Bearing may look scored but it really isn't, its a very soft white metal and no force went into it, it shows up any touch no matter how light and you cant feel any of the marks. I would imagine that as the engine is run and the cam seats itself properly all of those marks will quickly disappear, I don't think it would be possible to fit the camshaft without something showing on the bearing, it seems unusual but that's the way it is with this old tech! cheers Matt
10:44 ... Perhaps at some point Ford was making the camshafts for both?? I mean if not on the production Willy's Jeeps, maybe for the replacement market, for both, at the time?
i've only found Ford camshafts so far??
One my two Ford engines I've got CWC camshafts. On a spare MB block, CWC camshaft.
My NOS camshaft.... yep CWC...
Might go lucky dip and buy another.
You Guys twice !! 😂
i'm weening myself off, its a slow process!
Your wife is a saint
you say that.....
Do you also have an Instagram account?
No I don't but I could have if people were interested in seeing it? cheers