How to build a sub 250g 3.5-inch freestyle FPV Drone for $160 in 2024
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- In this video I'll show you a step-by-step tutorial on how to build your own sub 250g 3.5-Inch freestyle FPV drone for under $160 using parts from Aliexpress.
Product links:
FlyFishRC Volador VX3.5 Frame: s.click.aliexp...
Alternate VX3.5 Frame: s.click.aliexp...
YSIDO 1505 Motors: s.click.aliexp...
Alternate YSIDO Motors: s.click.aliexp...
T-MOTOR 1604 Motors: s.click.aliexp...
Alternate T-MOTOR Motors: s.click.aliexp...
SpeedyBee F405 Mini: s.click.aliexp...
Alternate SpeedyBee F405: s.click.aliexp...
Caddx Ratel 2 Camera: s.click.aliexp...
Alternate Ratel 2: s.click.aliexp...
SoloGood 1W VTX: s.click.aliexp...
SpeedyBee TX800 VTX: s.click.aliexp...
JHEMCU ELRS Receiver: s.click.aliexp...
Happymodel ELRS Receiver: s.click.aliexp...
HQProp T3.5 Props: s.click.aliexp...
Alternate T3.5 Props: s.click.aliexp...
RadioMaster Pocket Radio: s.click.aliexp...
Eachine EV800D Goggles: s.click.aliexp...
Tattu 4s 650mah lipo battery: s.click.aliexp...
Pinecil Soldering Iron: s.click.aliexp...
TS100 Soldering Iron: s.click.aliexp...
Hota D6 Charger: s.click.aliexp...
just want to you know that your videos finally motivated me to shell up and buy all the parts to get into this hobby.
Same. I think I'm finally gonna stop buying DJI drones and build my own.
3.5 is my favourite size, enough power to rip and not annoy the neighbours
Another terrific 3.5-inch frame is the Hobbymodel Crux35 frame kit - very inexpensive, light, and it flies great. Using inexpensive Happymodel 1404-3500Kv motors and a Caddx (DJI) Vista/Nebula Pro Nano HD digital VTx, mine is under 200g total including a 4S 650mAh LiPo battery. The frame is tiny with only enough room for a single stack of 3 boards. The Caddx Vista is two boards thick so going digital here requires a 4-in-1 (or All-In-One “AIO”) flight controller/ESC. A great fit is the JHEMCU GHF420AIO-20A which, at 20-amps, is priced well and uses the better 168Mhz F405 chip instead of a cheaper 100MHz F411 chip. Bonus points if you get a AIO with ELRS built-in like the Happymodel CruxF405HD ELRS AIO (20A ESC).
You literally just posted this when I was looking into those t motors. 1604s wanted to build a 3 and 1/2 in sub 250. Perfect timing
finally its here! i''ve been waiting for the 3.5 build
I always insulate the capacitor wires, speedybee even includes a heat shrink for that!
Thanks a million Man, I am absolutly building this, I just placed my orders, and I got the T Motors, wish me luck with my first build
I also use Radiomaster Pocket and like to set the VTX power with the S1 Pot on the radio. Also use "Low power disarm"
Thank you so much i really needed the sub 250 budget build.
Man bless you for your content. A gem
BRO you saved my day. I'm building this for sure. Thanks!
Holy based stevemre reference
Excellent content! Love that you do all that legwork & inspiring more people to build and fly!
save a backup of the firmware on your FC before you flash anything! this will save you in the future if you make any changes or if the new version of Beta flight has bugs
Great video. I've been following all of your content.
NICE 👏 build 👌
DarwinFPV 1504 motors are $28 for 4. They would be a alternative to the motors used. I've used them in 4 different builds. They are pretty solid. They come in 6S too.😯
7:27 Steve1989MRE just twitched in his sleep
Love the content! Did a similar build myself but with a folding 4” frame. Was this flight also on stock betaflight pid’s? Maybe it’s an idea to do a comparisson video with this build , the 7” and the 10” all on stock betaflight vs. a pid preset on it? Should be very interesting to see I guess.
Anyway, thanks for another video :) Looking forward to the next one!
Great content, you deserve more subs!! Keep it up
I had diagonal lines like that once in my feed, turned out the 5v regulator was causing them. I could actually see the issue with an oscilloscope as well
Is there an easy fix?
depends if it only happens while flying, does it happen on the bench at all? so those lines look like a voltage ripple rather than say interference. Check the BEC, then check if you have a ground loop, or something creating EMI. I know @propsoff goes into detail about grounding. Also length of wire can pick up freq, or if it's running over something causing EMI.
Hello! Thanks for the great video! Keep it up! 🇺🇦 ❤ 🇺🇸
You're getting all these AliExpress parts. Can you talk more about long-term use for these drones? I'm super interested in all your builds but slightly worried about the long- reliability.
The ysido motors are definitely sus but the rest of the parts are just regular parts you would get anywhere else, its just cheaper on Aliexpress
@@hoardersam10 can you tell what makes the ysido motors Sus? Is it just that they aren't a known brand and thus they don't have a history yet, or they make some sort of worrying sound or something?
cane you make a cinewhoop next?
great video btw.
I'm working on a bee35 3.5" cinewhoop build!
Loving your videos man! Do you have any plans in the future to make something with HDZero? Would be happy to see it.
Hi, friend, I also built one with those motors and I think they can be 12 poles, it would be good if you could check it out. Nice video
Great video! Thanks for the information. I've been thinking about getting into the FPV hobby so very helpful. For a beginner should I go the Mobula 8 whoop route first then look at assembling my own or just jump straight into building my own?
Yeah for learning to fly, the Mobula8 or Mobula7 are good choices. The mobula8 for more outdoors flying, the mobula7 is good for more indoor flying. This build video is good for a first build, but for learning to fly I recommend tinywhoops since they don't break easily
@@hoardersam10 That makes sense, thanks!
As a frame i can also recommend manta 3.6...same weight as flyfish 68g
I'll have to check it out!
@@hoardersam10 forgot to start with... Thx for great clip, saved.... next 250 builds need to wait a while, my wife needs to digest the current build....for her dron is a dron ;)
Hey Sam, in 2024, what's your current favorite VTX system with Goggles. That is, if money was no option, perfect world scenario.
I don't know if its recency bias or not, but I'm a big fan of the walksnail goggles L.
I personally prefer not having to fiddle around with a million things before flying, so the simplicity of the goggles L makes it really easy to take anywhere to fly. My DJI goggles have a bajillion little nubs and antennas sticking out of them so I have to baby them in order not to break them.
Its similar to the radio, I never use my TX16S anymore because it just has too many nubs sticking out of it. I always use my radiomaster pocket because I can literally throw it around and it won't break
Will you also show a tutorial on how to build a 5-inch FPV?
I have the dji goggle two with my avata. Next drone will be with an o3 but no i feel conflicted. Build this or geprc cinelog35 v2
Update: forgot i have emax ez pilot ive been flying a lot more than my avata just from the size and being able fly it at home or my brothers backyard.
I think the cinelog will fly too similarly to the Avata since they are both 3.5" cinewhoops
This is a great video. But a Happymodel Crux35 is £118 delivered... Building is fun, but might as well save it for the repairs.
Where exactly? I only found it for 140
The prices you show in your video are all "first time user deals" that can only be used once. Do you use the "superdeal" trick featured on your channel to get additional discounts or is there another method?
Can this build use HV lipos? Also, what's the weight with the O3?
I assume the o3 air unit will put you over 250 grams.
What kind of flight time do you get + or -?
How do you get these prices no taxes ?
why band a and channel 6 and why not band R channel 1 ?
This vs crux35?
Hi do you have a deone for sale i am willing to to buy one from you
in my experience, those shitty multiwound motors u got suffer from premature failure do to induction making the wires in the windings rub together unless they get double dipped in enamel which that company doesnt do to my knowledge... the lannrc 1505 uses single core wraps and can even take 6s with a good quality stack like a hackrc 40a bl32 esc and f7! personally i'd take the lannrc well over the tmotor...
i did fry a lannrc 3750kv one time on 6s, but i hit a tree and broke off an entire blade, it flew back on 2 remaining blades, sounded horrible and the motor was smoking when i landed, lol, it still worked after it cooled off, but i changed it out anyhoo cuz the windings was black and krispy... my fault not the motors! i got 5 sets of them i like them so much! i lioke the sklystars version too, but they have been out of stock for 6 months... but 1505 seems to be the best size for a 3.5 for performance
Is there a wire hookup diagram ?
in the discription
Sorry still working on it
Hello.
What happend if i accidentally got fake googles not original....? Pls respond
It will still work, just the signal won't be as good as the real one. The fake ones are still a good value at $60, but in my opinion its best to spend $120 on real ones
@@hoardersam10 i accidentally got scammed at 110 euros... Kinda sad ngl XD
@@hoardersam10 i n building right now a 7 inch for the diploma for uni and i bought the ysido stack and when i saw the video when it got burned i fast ordered the speedybee XD now i m thinking to buy the real eachine is it worth it? I need at least 4km range with it... Maybe if i buy stronger antenas???
@@fabian99688 I would just keep on using the fake ones, but yeah go with better antennas. I use a triple-feed patch and a spironet omni
@@hoardersam10 cand u help me with some good links to see the price? thank you verry much for the support