Thanks! 👍 The DT-02 is a real fun chassis for the money. For the race I run my modded DT-02MS, but for general use I have a blast running a near stock Holiday Buggy. 😁
The DT-02 / 03 chassis are on the budget side of RC and mostly plastic, but they're pretty tough! I saw some pretty bad crashes and a few slammed hard into the wall, but nothing broke. 👍
It was certainly an eventful evening. 👍 The placement of the obstacle cones this time was very tricky and caught so many people out. On my first race all of us were knocked out! 😅
Awesome. I wish the old-school was more popular around me. Any chance you are planning on getting the Tamiya BBX ? If so: Do you plan on doing the slipper clutch upgrade, perhaps paired with a 13.5T brushless, and then tested on the carpet track? I'm still rocking a heavily modified Kyosho Ultima at my local track, and am considering the BBX next.
Thanks! I have a BBX on order! It’s supposed to be released in August over here. No real plans for it yet, but the kit ball diff won’t like being run on a high traction indoor carpet track. I‘ll probably build it up stock at first, run it on dirt and later think about mods… Motor wise, I’m leaning towards old school brushed. 👍
Are you allowed to use different tamiya springs? Are there any rules to building the cva shocks? If you can use different springs I would keep the front and use red dt02 springs in the rear only. It makes a huge difference. You would think putting a softer spring in the rear would make it worse but the red spring is taller and rebound is awesome and you won’t be slamming the transmission after a jump. In fact you can be more reckless on the jumps. If using dt03 the front is lighter so use red springs front and rear. I looked at the dt02 Ms instructions and that’s how I found the spring rates. Front stock and rear is the red dt02 spring. Tamiya support said they used to be painted white for that kit. If you have to use the kit cva parts For the sand viper I would build front and rear with one hole piston on stock oil. Why? Because it perfectly mimics the piston action in the aluminum dampers. If you can modify the cvas I would put 3 hole trf pistons in the front. Make sure the holes are 1.4 In the rear I would use the trf blanks 11mm which are black and drill out two holes at 1.4. Replace the bottom o ring with trf shaft guides on all 4 dampers. If you go all out with the best choices listed above your dampers will perform exactly like aluminum cvas One important step for the front cvas. You will notice the rear cva lower eyelet is longer than the front. Source two longer eyelets and install them in the front to make it taller. And if you are allowed install the front lower eyelet to the inner most setting. The fronts will sit level but this allows the front arms to hang down more at full extend and give better dampening and no bottoming out! It seems costly but if you get enough parts you can do 3-4 buggy’s for the price of one set of aluminum dampers. If you can use aluminum dampers it would get the tt02/df03 aluminum dampers. Do not use the gold spring. Use the stock front spring and red rear spring for dt02. For dt03 red all the way around because the front is lighter. The instructions are meant for a 4wd. Download the dt02 Ms manual and build the shocks that way. If the manual is no longer available build the shocks with zero internal spacers in the front and two in the rear. The instructions that come with the dampers have you build with 3 spacers in the front and 4 in the rear which is ridiculous lol even for a 4wd.
Thanks for the info. 👍 There are no rules for dampers. I've gone through numerous different shock setups in and effort to fine tune the suspension to my liking. Most people run stiffer springs, such as Tamiya blue, and combine that with thicker oils. Some replace the dampers with other brands. I initially ran the standard MS spec dampers with stiffer springs, but had issues with the oil seal tearing. In the interests of durability and reliability I switched to aeration dampers. The setup I have now (stiff springs and oil) work perfectly for our track and my driving style.
Love the racing action. It is impressive to see the cars zipping around and navigating around those obstacles. Looks like a lot of fun.
Thanks 👍 the cones make it quite a challenge as they’re right where you don’t want them to be! 😅
The more I see the DT-02 in acrion, the more I want one. Nice racing!
Thanks! 👍 The DT-02 is a real fun chassis for the money. For the race I run my modded DT-02MS, but for general use I have a blast running a near stock Holiday Buggy. 😁
Lots of fun looking racing going on! Lots of bumping and banging but everyone looks like they made it through ok! Always fun to watch these!
The DT-02 / 03 chassis are on the budget side of RC and mostly plastic, but they're pretty tough! I saw some pretty bad crashes and a few slammed hard into the wall, but nothing broke. 👍
Thanks for sharing David. Looked like massive fun!
It was certainly an eventful evening. 👍 The placement of the obstacle cones this time was very tricky and caught so many people out. On my first race all of us were knocked out! 😅
Good job on winning 3rd place. That's what I call the bronze medal position.
Thanks!
Awesome. I wish the old-school was more popular around me.
Any chance you are planning on getting the Tamiya BBX ?
If so: Do you plan on doing the slipper clutch upgrade, perhaps paired with a 13.5T brushless, and then tested on the carpet track?
I'm still rocking a heavily modified Kyosho Ultima at my local track, and am considering the BBX next.
Thanks! I have a BBX on order! It’s supposed to be released in August over here. No real plans for it yet, but the kit ball diff won’t like being run on a high traction indoor carpet track. I‘ll probably build it up stock at first, run it on dirt and later think about mods…
Motor wise, I’m leaning towards old school brushed. 👍
@@KaiCityRC yeah, I'd have to get that diff upgrade too. I'll await more videos like yours. Thanks for the response.
Are you allowed to use different tamiya springs?
Are there any rules to building the cva shocks?
If you can use different springs I would keep the front and use red dt02 springs in the rear only. It makes a huge difference. You would think putting a softer spring in the rear would make it worse but the red spring is taller and rebound is awesome and you won’t be slamming the transmission after a jump. In fact you can be more reckless on the jumps. If using dt03 the front is lighter so use red springs front and rear. I looked at the dt02 Ms instructions and that’s how I found the spring rates. Front stock and rear is the red dt02 spring. Tamiya support said they used to be painted white for that kit.
If you have to use the kit cva parts For the sand viper I would build front and rear with one hole piston on stock oil. Why? Because it perfectly mimics the piston action in the aluminum dampers.
If you can modify the cvas I would put 3 hole trf pistons in the front. Make sure the holes are 1.4
In the rear I would use the trf blanks 11mm which are black and drill out two holes at 1.4. Replace the bottom o ring with trf shaft guides on all 4 dampers.
If you go all out with the best choices listed above your dampers will perform exactly like aluminum cvas
One important step for the front cvas. You will notice the rear cva lower eyelet is longer than the front. Source two longer eyelets and install them in the front to make it taller. And if you are allowed install the front lower eyelet to the inner most setting. The fronts will sit level but this allows the front arms to hang down more at full extend and give better dampening and no bottoming out!
It seems costly but if you get enough parts you can do 3-4 buggy’s for the price of one set of aluminum dampers.
If you can use aluminum dampers it would get the tt02/df03 aluminum dampers. Do not use the gold spring. Use the stock front spring and red rear spring for dt02. For dt03 red all the way around because the front is lighter.
The instructions are meant for a 4wd. Download the dt02 Ms manual and build the shocks that way. If the manual is no longer available build the shocks with zero internal spacers in the front and two in the rear. The instructions that come with the dampers have you build with 3 spacers in the front and 4 in the rear which is ridiculous lol even for a 4wd.
Thanks for the info. 👍 There are no rules for dampers. I've gone through numerous different shock setups in and effort to fine tune the suspension to my liking. Most people run stiffer springs, such as Tamiya blue, and combine that with thicker oils. Some replace the dampers with other brands. I initially ran the standard MS spec dampers with stiffer springs, but had issues with the oil seal tearing. In the interests of durability and reliability I switched to aeration dampers. The setup I have now (stiff springs and oil) work perfectly for our track and my driving style.
Just bought one myself
Congrats! The DT-02 (and 03) chassis are a lot of fun. 👍
😎👍