Great video! My daily drive is an old Belmont that I've been driving for 35-odd years, but I still know bugger all about cars. Now my kids (15 and 13) are old enough, and are saying that *they* want to get cars like mine when they're older - I figure we can all learn this together, once I find a car or even just an old affordable engine to practice on or rebuild. So when we get there, I'll definitely be referring to this series of vids and the comments :)
The old Holden Six , so many sizes only a few CI apart . Starting in sizes 130ci red motor an export only red in the LC Torana mostly to Indonesia and possibly NZ, 138ci red was LC Torana only, 149ci was first red but was really more maroon in colour, 161ci , 173ci 179ci, 186ci and 202 ci. + 2850cc and 3300cc later blue/black. And the famous Star Fire 4 a 2850 with 2 cylinders cut off !
Looks good My tips on a budget would be full stock rebuild but get machinist to covert trunnions in the head to take modern Vitek valve stem seals…. Fireball electronic ignition instead of points and condenser in the dizzy - this allows reusing old dizzy and can be converted back to original New cam - Mild 1/4 Cam upgrade Extractors Carby kit for the Carby Everything else stock…… I did exactly that on a 202 massive improvement…… Watch the front harmonic balancer as the timing mark moves with age so re calibrate TDC when on the engine stand…….. before the head goes back on…… And would also convert rear main seal to modern silicone of neoprene seal…… that’s it
I worked on a lot of Holden grey and red motors in the late 60's and early 70's. The red motors were quite robust and simply built. That motor of yours will come up well. Strip it down completely, clean it all up, make sure all the oil galleries and water jackets are clear, measure the bores and main and big end journals. They'll be standard for sure seeing you know the history of that motor. You'll most likely get away with just lightly honing the bores (Repco, SuperCheap, etc, sell hones), and a set of new rings and big end bearings, head resurfaced, valve grind, new welch plugs, etc. I assume that as this video was posted in August you have probably by now popped the crankshaft out and mixed up the main bearing shells. If that's the case you will need a new set. Plenty of stuff on RUclips about measuring journals with a micrometer. I would suggest finding a new sump somewhere. Once they have a good "whack" they tend to distort and never seal properly again if they're removed. Love the thongs and socks combination by the way...
Hey mate, thanks a lot for the comment, sounds like you have a lifetime of knowledge! I've been busy with work so I haven't gotten that far yet but I was aware that I should keep them all organised as I take them apart.
@@turnandlearn6542 That's good that you're aware to keep the main bearing shells stored exactly as they came out in the unlikely case you can't get new ones. Best practice though is that any time you remove bearing shells it's better to replace them with new ones. They're still readily available for the red motors and quite cheap. You'll find that the main journals will probably polish up nicely (linish) with just some wet & dry tape. Check that the camshaft lobe surfaces and hydraulic tappets aren't worn, you'll need to find an engine oil with zinc or a substitute additive for when the engine is ready to run. The old generation oils had zinc to lubricate the flat tappets, newer engines have rollers. Plenty of tips on RUclips for that.
@@PropanePete thanks a lot mate, trying to do my research as I go and enjoying the learning experience. Generations of knowledge on the internet that blokes like you are happy to share
Hey mate love the video. I’m currently breaking down my 186 too so I’ll be following your feed. One thing I’ve read up about the water pumps is that the cast impeller pump is better than the fan impeller and you’ll have less over heating issues they’re about 65-70 bucks. Best of luck mate it’ll be rewarding at the end!
Hey mate, that's awesome! Interesting about the water pump, I ended up buying a new one from spares box for around $40. But it looks like the fan type.
@@tripsadelica are you talking about actual blue in colour? If so, I think the sump and the inspection covers have just been badly sprayed over with blue paint. I'm not sure if some parts have been taken and replaced though.
Yep, the original GMH water pumps had a cast iron impeller and you could buy a repair kit for them, new seal, bearing, gasket, etc. The pressed metal impeller water pumps were non factory if I remember correctly. They were throw-away and not as efficient as the genuine ones.
Gotta love the old red motors, and if I may make a comment on something I noticed.. It's good practice to remove the Cylinder head bolts in the opposite order to the tightening sequence, so starting from both ends, and moving inwards would be the reverse order to tightening. This is more critical with a alloy head, especially if you want to avoid resurfacing work. In addition, it's advisable to take only 1/4 of a turn steps initially to more evenly relax the tension on the first go round, after that go for it in the same order.. Hope the rebuild worked out well?
Cool if you’re keeping with the originality of the car being, 186 but in my experience after building a black block 3.3 I wouldn’t bother with the old red engines anymore as there crank isn’t fully counter waited pretty shore only the 186s had the steel crank the 3,3 had better rods better head as in its 12 port not 9 and the dizzy is electronic no points and I think the later 3.3 were unleaded or better suited to unleaded petrol there’s so much more you can do with the 3.3 being the better option all goes by how big your wallet is like my old man had a 186s in his eh running stage 4 yellow terra head 192 balance blue printed bottom end straight cut timing gears and genuine Bathurst cam was 35/75 triple Webbers pacemaker exhaust Rod Hatfield Bell housing steel case Toyota five speed box Torana 308 diff centre and modified HR disk front end bigger brakes I’ll never forget the sound of that engine and in the late 90s in Brisbane blowing off a 351 xy falcon at the lights in a white EH panel van was priceless 😂
Hey bro. I mostly work with the old holden inline six motors. Good to see another working with them. What's your plans for the motor? Any performance mods planned, or just keeping it stock?
Hey mate, that's cool! Honestly this is my first mechanical experience really, it's the original motor from my HG wagon. At this stage I just want to see if I can manage to tidy it all up and get it firing again.
No different blocks , 202 has different main bareing size . 179 has steel crank . They all have ci cast in the side except HP block has " HP" cast were the ci would be .
Great video! My daily drive is an old Belmont that I've been driving for 35-odd years, but I still know bugger all about cars.
Now my kids (15 and 13) are old enough, and are saying that *they* want to get cars like mine when they're older - I figure we can all learn this together, once I find a car or even just an old affordable engine to practice on or rebuild.
So when we get there, I'll definitely be referring to this series of vids and the comments :)
The old Holden Six , so many sizes only a few CI apart . Starting in sizes 130ci red motor an export only red in the LC Torana mostly to Indonesia and possibly NZ, 138ci red was LC Torana only, 149ci was first red but was really more maroon in colour, 161ci , 173ci 179ci, 186ci and 202 ci. + 2850cc and 3300cc later blue/black. And the famous Star Fire 4 a 2850 with 2 cylinders cut off !
Brilliant upload. I am thinking about rebuilding a back 202 in an ex patrol car that I had in Mt Thomas
Awesome mate, get into it.
Looks good
My tips on a budget would be full stock rebuild but get machinist to covert trunnions in the head to take modern Vitek valve stem seals….
Fireball electronic ignition instead of points and condenser in the dizzy - this allows reusing old dizzy and can be converted back to original
New cam - Mild 1/4 Cam upgrade
Extractors
Carby kit for the Carby
Everything else stock……
I did exactly that on a 202 massive improvement……
Watch the front harmonic balancer as the timing mark moves with age so re calibrate TDC when on the engine stand…….. before the head goes back on……
And would also convert rear main seal to modern silicone of neoprene seal…… that’s it
Hey mate,
Thanks a lot. All great points especially the balancer and rear main seal. Hopefully I'll be able to get a new video up soon.
I worked on a lot of Holden grey and red motors in the late 60's and early 70's. The red motors were quite robust and simply built. That motor of yours will come up well. Strip it down completely, clean it all up, make sure all the oil galleries and water jackets are clear, measure the bores and main and big end journals. They'll be standard for sure seeing you know the history of that motor. You'll most likely get away with just lightly honing the bores (Repco, SuperCheap, etc, sell hones), and a set of new rings and big end bearings, head resurfaced, valve grind, new welch plugs, etc. I assume that as this video was posted in August you have probably by now popped the crankshaft out and mixed up the main bearing shells. If that's the case you will need a new set. Plenty of stuff on RUclips about measuring journals with a micrometer. I would suggest finding a new sump somewhere. Once they have a good "whack" they tend to distort and never seal properly again if they're removed. Love the thongs and socks combination by the way...
Hey mate, thanks a lot for the comment, sounds like you have a lifetime of knowledge!
I've been busy with work so I haven't gotten that far yet but I was aware that I should keep them all organised as I take them apart.
@@turnandlearn6542 That's good that you're aware to keep the main bearing shells stored exactly as they came out in the unlikely case you can't get new ones. Best practice though is that any time you remove bearing shells it's better to replace them with new ones. They're still readily available for the red motors and quite cheap. You'll find that the main journals will probably polish up nicely (linish) with just some wet & dry tape. Check that the camshaft lobe surfaces and hydraulic tappets aren't worn, you'll need to find an engine oil with zinc or a substitute additive for when the engine is ready to run. The old generation oils had zinc to lubricate the flat tappets, newer engines have rollers. Plenty of tips on RUclips for that.
@@PropanePete thanks a lot mate, trying to do my research as I go and enjoying the learning experience. Generations of knowledge on the internet that blokes like you are happy to share
@@turnandlearn6542 Yep, there's lots of people out there in RUclips land who are currently working on these engines so there's plenty of help around.
Those ration packs in the back might come in handy with this east coast weather 😂
Hey mate love the video. I’m currently breaking down my 186 too so I’ll be following your feed. One thing I’ve read up about the water pumps is that the cast impeller pump is better than the fan impeller and you’ll have less over heating issues they’re about 65-70 bucks. Best of luck mate it’ll be rewarding at the end!
Hey mate, that's awesome! Interesting about the water pump, I ended up buying a new one from spares box for around $40. But it looks like the fan type.
@@turnandlearn6542 There's bits of blue motor there...how come? I'd love to see this restored with a Rotec injection system.
@@tripsadelica are you talking about actual blue in colour? If so, I think the sump and the inspection covers have just been badly sprayed over with blue paint. I'm not sure if some parts have been taken and replaced though.
Yep, the original GMH water pumps had a cast iron impeller and you could buy a repair kit for them, new seal, bearing, gasket, etc. The pressed metal impeller water pumps were non factory if I remember correctly. They were throw-away and not as efficient as the genuine ones.
It's not the original sump pan. The original didn't have a dip stick. The 186 dip stick was through a tube in the side of the block by no 5 piston.
Mate that is correct. Wish I knew this before I wire wheeled it and painted it lol. As far as I can tell it's from an early commodore.
Gotta love the old red motors, and if I may make a comment on something I noticed.. It's good practice to remove the Cylinder head bolts in the opposite order to the tightening sequence, so starting from both ends, and moving inwards would be the reverse order to tightening. This is more critical with a alloy head, especially if you want to avoid resurfacing work. In addition, it's advisable to take only 1/4 of a turn steps initially to more evenly relax the tension on the first go round, after that go for it in the same order.. Hope the rebuild worked out well?
Cool if you’re keeping with the originality of the car being, 186 but in my experience after building a black block 3.3 I wouldn’t bother with the old red engines anymore as there crank isn’t fully counter waited pretty shore only the 186s had the steel crank the 3,3 had better rods better head as in its 12 port not 9 and the dizzy is electronic no points and I think the later 3.3 were unleaded or better suited to unleaded petrol there’s so much more you can do with the 3.3 being the better option all goes by how big your wallet is like my old man had a 186s in his eh running stage 4 yellow terra head 192 balance blue printed bottom end straight cut timing gears and genuine Bathurst cam was 35/75 triple Webbers pacemaker exhaust Rod Hatfield Bell housing steel case Toyota five speed box Torana 308 diff centre and modified HR disk front end bigger brakes I’ll never forget the sound of that engine and in the late 90s in Brisbane blowing off a 351 xy falcon at the lights in a white EH panel van was priceless 😂
179 and 149 had steel cranks .
@@JosephCowen-fz8vj yeah
Nice work. Love Holden 6s
One criticism. The music is sooooooo loud.
Thanks a lot Ross. That's good feedback, it's my first editing any film so it's hard to tell what volume I should make everything. Sorry about that!
holy cow. those water pumps have been around $30 forever!
Hey bro. I mostly work with the old holden inline six motors. Good to see another working with them. What's your plans for the motor? Any performance mods planned, or just keeping it stock?
Hey mate, that's cool! Honestly this is my first mechanical experience really, it's the original motor from my HG wagon. At this stage I just want to see if I can manage to tidy it all up and get it firing again.
@@turnandlearn6542 Yeah, I reckon you'll get that sorted and happening in no time. If you get stuck and need any advise, just sing out!
Are the 179, 186 and the 202 the same block? If so, is there any room left on the 202 to bore it out more?
Can bore 202 up to 80" easy & 179 up to 120" 😜
No different blocks , 202 has different main bareing size . 179 has steel crank . They all have ci cast in the side except HP block has " HP" cast were the ci would be .
Do full turns on the socket handle
Please don’t tell me you sold the car