- Видео 4
- Просмотров 36 125
Turn and Learn
Добавлен 5 окт 2020
HOLDEN 186 EP4 - Painting & Re-assembly
In this video I give the engine a fresh paint job. Re-assemble most of the engine accessories, as well as put the push rods and rockers back together.
Просмотров: 13 615
Видео
HOLDEN 186 EP3 - Valve job & Cleaning pistons
Просмотров 5 тыс.3 года назад
In this video I lap the valves, clean the combustion chambers, gasket surfaces and piston tops. I also spent a lot of time gathering the parts I was missing, and cleaning them up, ready to start assembly in the next video.
HOLDEN 186 - Valve removal & Paint removal
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.3 года назад
In this video I remove the valves and inspect the cylinder head. I also strip the old layers of paint from the sump and rocker cover gasket, ready for some primer.
Holden 186 EP1 - Disassembly, first look
Просмотров 15 тыс.3 года назад
In this video I start tearing down what's left of the 186 and get a look at the condition after roughly 10 years in storage. This is the "power" plant for my 1970 HG Wagon which is currently in storage. I've never attempted anything to this extent so my main goals are to try and refresh this engine and learn a few lessons along the way. Thanks for watching!
Bad build. 👎👎👎👎👎👎👎
To not install a thermostat shows you don't know what you are doing. Painting gasket surfaces makes no sense, nor does painting it when assembled. I hope no one takes this video seriously.
Sweet as. Those engines will go forever.
That thing won't fit in a HG with that sump on it. That's more like a Commodore. Any ideas how it picks the oil up ??
The old Holden Six , so many sizes only a few CI apart . Starting in sizes 130ci red motor an export only red in the LC Torana mostly to Indonesia and possibly NZ, 138ci red was LC Torana only, 149ci was first red but was really more maroon in colour, 161ci , 173ci 179ci, 186ci and 202 ci. + 2850cc and 3300cc later blue/black. And the famous Star Fire 4 a 2850 with 2 cylinders cut off !
Please don’t tell me you sold the car
Great video! My daily drive is an old Belmont that I've been driving for 35-odd years, but I still know bugger all about cars. Now my kids (15 and 13) are old enough, and are saying that *they* want to get cars like mine when they're older - I figure we can all learn this together, once I find a car or even just an old affordable engine to practice on or rebuild. So when we get there, I'll definitely be referring to this series of vids and the comments :)
Cool if you’re keeping with the originality of the car being, 186 but in my experience after building a black block 3.3 I wouldn’t bother with the old red engines anymore as there crank isn’t fully counter waited pretty shore only the 186s had the steel crank the 3,3 had better rods better head as in its 12 port not 9 and the dizzy is electronic no points and I think the later 3.3 were unleaded or better suited to unleaded petrol there’s so much more you can do with the 3.3 being the better option all goes by how big your wallet is like my old man had a 186s in his eh running stage 4 yellow terra head 192 balance blue printed bottom end straight cut timing gears and genuine Bathurst cam was 35/75 triple Webbers pacemaker exhaust Rod Hatfield Bell housing steel case Toyota five speed box Torana 308 diff centre and modified HR disk front end bigger brakes I’ll never forget the sound of that engine and in the late 90s in Brisbane blowing off a 351 xy falcon at the lights in a white EH panel van was priceless 😂
179 and 149 had steel cranks .
@@JosephCowen-fz8vj yeah
Do full turns on the socket handle
Permisi om , berapa momen pengencangan baut cylinder head ya? Thanks🙏
Engine looks brilliant... Great job!
You should put the thermostat in otherwise the water flows for the radiator too quick not allowing it time to kool
Great Job on this, it looks factory fresh. Do you still have the commodore sump and pickup? I need one for my project 😅
I watched your video and I think your valve surfaces were a bit too far gone for lapping. One valve I saw was burned. You really need a valve grind and seat resurface before lapping for best results with the head and at least replace piston rings, bearings and rear main seal. I've been in the trade a long time and every time I've seen oven cleaner used it's caused damage to something!
Gotta love the old red motors, and if I may make a comment on something I noticed.. It's good practice to remove the Cylinder head bolts in the opposite order to the tightening sequence, so starting from both ends, and moving inwards would be the reverse order to tightening. This is more critical with a alloy head, especially if you want to avoid resurfacing work. In addition, it's advisable to take only 1/4 of a turn steps initially to more evenly relax the tension on the first go round, after that go for it in the same order.. Hope the rebuild worked out well?
holy cow. those water pumps have been around $30 forever!
I would fit a thermostat regardless of whether the cooling fan is electric or not & I would run a breather type of oil filler cap & Close off the front hole which is next to the oil filler cap with a rubber bung unless a later pollution control type of air filter housing is used where the breather tube is plumbed into it !
This head and the valves are fucked mate! Send it off for machine, crack test, new valve guides and new valves… The block also needs major attention. Acid wash, deck, pistons, bearings and camshaft attention. OTHERWISE YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME…
Did you know you had a burnt valve on the one you lapped in it needs refacing. By the way would be more easy to lap valves in with a hand drill. Oh did you check the guides for any floppy valves ? 😜
Hey mate, I did end up replacing some valves that were too far gone
Not sure if you used any silastic to assemble the sump gaskets also the front rubber timing cover gasket was not installed properly i could see that it came half of when you fit the sump on.
ooooh flat top pistons, fancy. (not being sarcastic)
Are the 179, 186 and the 202 the same block? If so, is there any room left on the 202 to bore it out more?
Can bore 202 up to 80" easy & 179 up to 120" 😜
No different blocks , 202 has different main bareing size . 179 has steel crank . They all have ci cast in the side except HP block has " HP" cast were the ci would be .
We'res the sealer on the head bolts
Looks like he did not put any on very lucky he did not pop a headbolt thread rubbing dry when torquing at 75lbs. Bang ?
Generally u need a thread sealer because a few of the bolts go into the coolant passages
One question is that a 186s it should tell u one the vin or whatever it’s called it will say 186sand some other numbers afterwords
Hey mate, I will check and let you know
Because there was a 186 s, p,and h. I think and the s was the best with a forged steel crank and a and factory alloy timing gear and a few other things it was I will call it the performance 186
Great video mate. I am not sure you understand what a thermostat does, you absolutely need one.
Thanks mate. I guess i thought the thermostat opens once the water gets up to a high enough temperature, I thought I read about having no thermostat and using a digital temperature sensor to turn on fans etc instead. But I'll do some more research to make sure!
@@turnandlearn6542 the thermostat regulates the flow of water into the engine to hold it at a set temperature. It also makes the engine warm up much faster. You need to keep the engine hot enough to make combustion efficient……a cold engine will be a bit of a pig. The thermostat also regulates flow through the radiator to give the water enough time to cool down. 👍🏻 186 is such a great engine
@@dimadee thank you mate that makes sense. I'll make sure I do some more research before I run the engine, I ended up getting a fan so maybe I'll do the original engine fan and thermostat.
@@turnandlearn6542 Looking forward to hearing it run!
@@turnandlearn6542 yeah man put a thermostat in for sure other wise the old girl won't warm up for ever, my old 186 takes 10min to warm up and that's with a thermostat in. Highly recommend it 👍 Oh and I'd be using an assembly lube instead of wd if that's what it was when you put the tappets on? Maybe do an oil/filter change after a couple of hundred k's it'll help get rid of any contaminates from the cleaning process thats mixed with the engine oil. Cool vids mate keep it up and looking forward to more 🍻
We are still waiting for the next update
Good on ya mate good job nice to see the young fellas are interested in these motors I had a 202 6 which I’ve rebuilt a few times and a mate of mine had a 186 and I reckon the 186 was the best motor out of all of the sixes Especially when they’re blue printed they absolutely go like a bat out of hell The trick is once it’s in the car and running and everything is run in you’ve gotta get the carby jetted on a rolling road with the sniffer on the exhaust pipe and they change the emulsion tubes and the primary jet and the main jet until it’s running spot on and when you do that the thing will be unrecognisable……. They are a very happy motor……
Thanks a lot for the comment mate and the advice on carby tuning. I've been flat out with life and work but I'll hopefully have the car with me soon for some more videos.
Polished cover and water pump set it off I reckon, looks awesome! Can't wait for the next instalments🤘
Thanks a lot mate, I think it breaks up the red a bit haha. Hopefully I'll have the car at home soon!
@@turnandlearn6542 done well mate, provided me with plenty of inspo. I wanna see the wagon😜 I've got a Hg kingy longroof myself
@@brendon9788 awesome mate, as soon as i get her In the garage I'll put up a video. Love the wagons!
Any updates lately mate?
I am rebuilding a back 202 from a Holden VK commodore from 1984. It was my patrol car at Mt Thomas police station
How'd you go?
Don't remove carbon deposits. They help with higher compression
Oh my god, you serious?
I am rebuilding a 202 black motor from an ex police car I had at Mt Thomas station 30 plus years ago
Brilliant upload. I am thinking about rebuilding a back 202 in an ex patrol car that I had in Mt Thomas
Awesome mate, get into it.
Did you fire the motor up
Hi mate, really enjoying these videos and the input. I'm starting to rebuild a 161 and was wondering if you or anyone could tell me the bolt size and what type(SS) needed for the engine stand. Also for the lift of the engine if different ones needed. I've searched around on Google but I'm seeing different answers and mainly v8's. Hope your house renos are running smoothly. Thank you .
Hey mate, thanks for the comment. I believe you need bellhousing bolts for the engine stand, I got mine from a local bolt shop for a few dollars, it's worth getting them fairly long. As for lifting, I managed to get mine on the stand with the help of a mate so I haven't lifted it yet sorry.
@@turnandlearn6542 Thanks for the reply mate. I'm starting work with my son on a HR that's been in the family since new. Being that I'm an idiot, I stored it outside under a tarp between 2009 and 2016 while I needed garage space and that's when the decline started. The old girl was close to showroom before that but because I took it for granted...., well as I said, "I am an idiot".
@@abcmatt sounds like a good project mate. This engine was stored basically open in a shed, so it wasn't great either. But all the parts came back to life fairly easily with some elbow grease so I think you'll be right!
Did you add shims when installing the valve seals
Sorry mate not sure what you mean, I didn't use any shims though. Just compress the spring and make sure the valve seals are seated when you release.
@@turnandlearn6542 shims are like a washer did you put them before the valve stem seals on the cylinder head, if I had your email address I could have sent you a picture
@@turnandlearn6542 ok thanks I understand you
@@turnandlearn6542 You need to check each valve installed height factory specs is 1.625" so if this is higher than the specs you will need to fit a spring shim at the base to make it 1.625" they come in 15" 30" & 60" this will give you the correct valve seat pressure. 😨
@@billgeorgiou9929 hey mate thanks for the info. I'll try find in the manual about the valve height. It only mentioned measuring the springs to make sure they were the same length from memory
Let's create a WhatsApp group for Holden Belmont 202 engine
How fall have you gone with this project, am counting on you I have the same engine I want to rebuild it on my own so am going through your videos
Hi mate, so far it's back together on the engine stand. My house is being built so I won't be able to test it for another 2 months probably.
Ok pal please don't forget to send me a pic for engine torque specifications
@@stanbugah sure mate, I have the workshop manual, I can help you out.
I'll really appreciate an counting on you
Cheers mate, I knew nothing about cars but have recently inherited a HR and decided to learn. These videos make me hungry to get stuck into it
Mate that is awesome! My only advice would be don't be scared to get stuck in. I've been surprised at how simple this has been, at the end of the day it's all just mechanical.
Those ration packs in the back might come in handy with this east coast weather 😂
Good stuff man I am building a blue 202 and a red186 and this series has been really helpful and entertaining
Thanks a lot mate. Do you need a 202 sump? I now have a spare, freshly painted lol.
@@turnandlearn6542 maybe depends if mine turns out to be good
Why cant we come up with a WhatsApp group guys 🤝🤝
Keep the videos coming mate I have a 186 in my garage for my HG wagon project. It has a lot of rust and scale inside the block and head but the motor had good compression before I removed it from the car.
Uploading one as we speak mate! Thanks for your support. This engine actually belongs to my HG wagon! I'm hoping to start work on it soon.
Thanks for sharing your journey mate, I have an old 186 in my Series 3 Land Rover that I am going to pull apart and refurbish. Looking forward to the next vid
Thank you mate. Awesome! I'd love to own an old land rover one day. I'm doing this with no experience so hope it gives you confidence, if that's what you need.
It's not the original sump pan. The original didn't have a dip stick. The 186 dip stick was through a tube in the side of the block by no 5 piston.
Mate that is correct. Wish I knew this before I wire wheeled it and painted it lol. As far as I can tell it's from an early commodore.
Good to see keep it up……..
Good job mate Brought back memories Piston crowns will be fine for this application….. Also for carbon removal try 50:50 mix of ATF and Acetone……….. It seems to liquify the build up in seconds….. Good to see….!!!!!! Keep going..!!
Thanks mate, I'll try upload another soon. Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a go!
@@turnandlearn6542 Good old Dextron III ATF and actone 50/50 wipes carbon buildup off in seconds
Nice work. Love Holden 6s One criticism. The music is sooooooo loud.
Thanks a lot Ross. That's good feedback, it's my first editing any film so it's hard to tell what volume I should make everything. Sorry about that!
What I would do is fully disassemble it and get the top of the block machined and what you have to do if you are planning to do a proper rebuild is Hoan out the boars because they develop a lip at the top of the boar
Thanks for the comment mate. That would be ideal but I didn't want to take the bottom end apart at this stage. I think if I can get it back together and running then in the future it'll come completely apart for some upgrades.
Scrubbing the pistons reduces compression
Yes be very careful with the easy off because it is very corrosive
Good job mate. Just bought a hr with 186 thinking about building a motor. Now following....keep em coming mate!
Thanks mate, sounds good!
I worked on a lot of Holden grey and red motors in the late 60's and early 70's. The red motors were quite robust and simply built. That motor of yours will come up well. Strip it down completely, clean it all up, make sure all the oil galleries and water jackets are clear, measure the bores and main and big end journals. They'll be standard for sure seeing you know the history of that motor. You'll most likely get away with just lightly honing the bores (Repco, SuperCheap, etc, sell hones), and a set of new rings and big end bearings, head resurfaced, valve grind, new welch plugs, etc. I assume that as this video was posted in August you have probably by now popped the crankshaft out and mixed up the main bearing shells. If that's the case you will need a new set. Plenty of stuff on RUclips about measuring journals with a micrometer. I would suggest finding a new sump somewhere. Once they have a good "whack" they tend to distort and never seal properly again if they're removed. Love the thongs and socks combination by the way...
Hey mate, thanks a lot for the comment, sounds like you have a lifetime of knowledge! I've been busy with work so I haven't gotten that far yet but I was aware that I should keep them all organised as I take them apart.
@@turnandlearn6542 That's good that you're aware to keep the main bearing shells stored exactly as they came out in the unlikely case you can't get new ones. Best practice though is that any time you remove bearing shells it's better to replace them with new ones. They're still readily available for the red motors and quite cheap. You'll find that the main journals will probably polish up nicely (linish) with just some wet & dry tape. Check that the camshaft lobe surfaces and hydraulic tappets aren't worn, you'll need to find an engine oil with zinc or a substitute additive for when the engine is ready to run. The old generation oils had zinc to lubricate the flat tappets, newer engines have rollers. Plenty of tips on RUclips for that.
@@PropanePete thanks a lot mate, trying to do my research as I go and enjoying the learning experience. Generations of knowledge on the internet that blokes like you are happy to share
@@turnandlearn6542 Yep, there's lots of people out there in RUclips land who are currently working on these engines so there's plenty of help around.