Ford with NO START issues - SOLVED for $20 All Parts needed listed below the video
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- Опубликовано: 14 июл 2018
- Spark & fuel but no start?? This temp sensor fits mostly Fords. This model amzn.to/2NPVi65 TX61 reporting sensor. For ford-mazda & more second most common, ignition coil by BWD-Spectra exact fit ebay.us/RRFRDm
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Spark & fuel but no start?? Crazy thing, This temp sensor fits mostly Fords. This model amzn.to/2NPVi65 TX61 sensor. For ford-mazda & more ignition coil by BWD-Spectra ebay.to/2LhEMgZ AND be looking for this Escort trailer HITCH installed ebay.to/2unKgwv More escort upgrades and repairs on my channel.
⁷⅞⁶
Came across you video and wondering if this is the issue on my 85 Ford Econoline fuel injected 351. It has an EFItech system. It starts and runs fine except when real hot and left to stand for an hour or so. What do you think?
Those tend to do that when something warps, such as a intake and they expand with heat, then fail to produce enough vacuum to respond to the primitive computers in them. Another problem on some models is in/on the distributor, the module goes out of parameter with heat, returns when cool. Last is the coil itself, doing the HOT FORD FAILING COIL TRICK!
Is it the same thing on 1991 ford taurus
I have a 89 ford escort hatchback with a 1.9 throttle body engine I'm trying to get the car back running I got it in timing right but I can't find the number one cylinder is on the engine I think it's on the passenger side of the car also how do you put the plug wire on the distributor cap it go like this 1342 but some people I had them to try put the plug wire on well it still didn't run but on the motor it number like this 1234 so how do you really put them on
Yep! You were on the money with this replacement. I bought this for my brother-in-law and made his day. Quick and easy install. 👍✌
Holy shit !!!!
I have a 96 Ford E350 with a 7.5L engine
For the last year and a half I’ve been fucking with a rough idle and a hard start, only when hot. When it’s cold it starts right up and idles ok. But as soon as it gets hot it’s a violent shake at idle and hard to start.
So i tried a tune-up, fuel pump, fuel pump relays, injectors , 02 sensors , MAF sensor, fuel pressure regulator and even had the ECU re flashed. Same problem and it was getting worse. I see this video and thought why not try, it really was only about $20.
Installed sensor and the van runs near perfect now. Unbelievable ! It idles fine and starts up no matter what temperature.
thank you so much for posting this video.
PS. Even my local mechanic couldn’t figure it out.
😂😂😂🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for your video my ford ranger was starting i change the coils thinking they were the problem but it still have wouldn't start but your video save the day i found out the problem
The temp sensor fixed the problem on my 95 bronco, thanks you
I'm gonna try this. I ordered the sensor from Walmart and it'll be here by Thursday May 6, 2021. Thanks for the info.
I made a few videos of the 2000 Ford escort se I used to own. One of them was unplugging and each individual sensor out of those to to check to see which one controls the fan and which controls the two gauge. You will want to double up the torque converter front pump seals and put lock washers on the crank hub bolts. Also if the ignition switch is not working because the screw on the cover comes loose just put a small lock washer to hold it in place it works better than just lock tight.
Nice what one small part can do to you. Never saw a video on this issue. Thanks.
Thank you for the tip about cool starts for fords I actually tricked my sensor into starting this morning from a cold start it worked for me thanks again for the tip
How did you tricked it?
Awesome, informative video! Wish you would have showed the flouresant bulb trick, Thanks
Thanks for the heads up on that damn temp sensor!
A friend of mine' 97 Crown Vic has power to the coils packs(it has 2) and puel pressure in the rail. I think this may be his problem. I am about to go to his house and hopefully make his day. His family depends on him, and it is his only car.
excellent and well done on your pro trouble shooting tips- best ive seen! hv a Ranger with intermitent starting- sensor swap time before i spend hundreds thanks!🇨🇦
I've been researching this problem for my 98 ford ranger. You win . You are clear and concise and that's all I wanted. I'm going to subscribe to see what else I can gleam from your genius.
Thanks you are right you all helped fix my truck
I spent thousands and I’m super pissed this is the last thing I’ve done. I’ve learned a few things from this
Thank you for posing this video! I was able to fix my wife’s Escape for only $25! Keep up the good work!
What year was the escape will it work on my 2012 4 liter
What was your car doing.
Mine doesn't start it just sort of grabs gas for a second and then sort of like backfires through the intake and then die
@@peeeyyyy8439 did you fix your escape?
THank you, I have been a tech, not currently working as one, bbut this video helped me from pulling my hair out on my son's Mustang Gt. Sometimes as a tech we get so caught up in the major issues we forget to look at all the other sub-components in the ignition system. Replaced plugs, replaced fuel pump, still no start, we just replced the sensor and bam it started. but I have to fix the wires to the connector, (Years ago I had a damn mouse Make a nest) and he chewed through some wires the sensor wire beingone of them, was fixed but I'm gonna have to fix it again. THank you
Im having the same issue except the mouse thank god.
Is there a way to test the sensor before assuming its bad?
Looks like you are still replying to messages, even though this is an older video, so figure it's worth picking your brain a tad if that's alright with you. Got a 2000 Escort ZX2 (2.0L DOHC) that we had running (replaced slipping transmission) and it died coming down the road to the house. No odd sounds, it just died. Now won't start. No codes, even with all the attempts to start it while doing troubleshooting. Has a bit over 220k miles. While doing troubleshooting, few things have been replaced. Fuel filter (seemed partially clogged, since it was run down to empty during test drive after trans swap), spark plugs (really old), distributer (due to weak/no spark at times), and crankshaft position sensor (the tip was chewed up a little). Checked all fuses related to the fuel system. Checked the timing twice and it looks in time (might be maybe one tooth off on the crank, so I might just do the timing once I can get the alignment tool needed). The fuel pump does prime, and inertia switch was checked also. Currently gets spark, air, and fuel (you can smell the fuel when cranking it over). It tries to start slightly when cranking, as it'll backfire here and there. Have not replaced the temperature sensor (yet?). Any other suggestions?
Wow! I have been literally tearing my hair out trying to figure out my problem, just changed my temp sensor today and my ranger is fixed, thanks!!!
was your ranger having a hard time starting when cold? mine will turn over for 7+ seconds and sputter to a start 4.0L
@@FreddyBelong14 what was the issue? Mine does the same thing
Mine sputters for a few seconds grabs like a little gas and then dies and then the intake burst with a backfire. I was wondering if you were having the same problem
@@peeeyyyy8439 mine does the same did you figure it out?
@@FreddyBelong14 what fixed it
Spark, spin & fuel but no start?? This temp sensor fits 30 years of mostly Fords. This model amzn.to/2NPVi65 TX61 sensor. For others this is the ford-mazda & more ignition coil by BWD-Spectra ebay.to/2LhEMgZ
Never work on a hot car when fuel is involved! See next video!!
Also check the inersia switch if it doesnt start
That little part will also tell your computer that there is a block of ice siting in your motor black and also flood the motor even when its fuel ejected also had same issue on a Saturn but on the Saturn it was the sending unti
I think this saved me. Thank you
You're a good teacher 🙂👍
Hi, thanks for the details. Would the car start if you just pull the cable of the sensor?
Thanks 👍🏻 for your Good Video that's helping me well..
Hey man I have a 2008 Ford ranger with the 2.3 I got it and the guy said it had a intermediate stalling and not starting issue, I got it put a new maf sensor in it put new cats on it and the other guy put a brand new fuel pump in it I drove it about 1 mile and it died and hasent started since I can hear the fuel pump come on sounds just fine and it has spark
Your awesome!!!! Thank you!
Thank you your knowledge
Mazda 3.6l has the same failure mode due to the same bad part. Took me most of a day to figure out it was the temperature sender.
And the crazy part, its NOT a code generating issue in all of the events!
You Be Good Guys , best comment of the day
Thanks We will know in a few hours THANKS for the coil Idea as well Alert intelligent Gent much approved Passing it forward you Blessed people
That’s a cylinder head temp sensor. Similar to a coolant sensor on 6.8 and mounted under manifold on top driver side.
Thanks!
Good job
Suprerb discussion and video..its nice useful..where we get in online...IAM from India..if? You have information please
My wife works for a company that has a ford f450 box truck that will run great but sometimes won't crank after a few hours of driving around.. If they wait for a few hours it will crank. Any chance this part is on a truck that size?
I just replaced it with a duralast . Should i buy this brand?
Wow and im a mechanic
I have a 2013 e450 van I have good fuel pressure,injector pulse an spark. It starts with starting fluid .would this allow me to get spark and start the engine with starting fluid but not allow it to stay running?
thanks great video.
You are welcome!
My girlfriends car is a 2001 escort an we just had a bad freeze the other night an ever since then it will not start. Turns over but doesn’t crank. Can’t figure it out
Awesome thx
does it prevent the fuel pump from running?
My 2005 ford ranger will start and run fine shut it off and it won’t start back up give it a few days and it will start and run fine do you think it could be that same sensor?
Have a 91 taurus engine in a trike, Did a fuel pump, coil, fuel filter, cleaned the tank, rotor cap, worked until I sprayed seafoam into the intake. Let it hot soak then ran once pretty poorly afterwards. Then radiator fan seized up after trying to start many times. Currently have no fan just trying to see if it’s gonna live again…lol runs on starting fluid with no throttle, give throttle and dies promptly
Have you checked in the distributor for the module failing or crank sensor issues?
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thanks, I will see about testing those…
Can this be the issue on the OBD1 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0L? Intermittent?
Can a sensor cause coolant leak under the head
My son and I have very similar issues, I'll explain and see if you have any ideas besides the temp sensor! Which we will jump on tomorrow for sure. My son had a local business install a brand new from Ford 5.4 Triton engine in his truck is a 2005, The engine says 2008 on the side by the dip stick. The truck cranked fine ran for like 30-45 minutes after warming up and just dies. Wont crank turns over with no start. The shop said fuel pressure was low, (Installed new fuel pump in the gas tank) ($) Then same thing cranks when cold installed new (ECM) more $ of course same issue then installed a new fuel pump relay under the spare tire. still same issue cranks cold runs and then after 45 min or hour shuts off no crank until next day cranks right up! Brought it home and I ordered new coil packs plugs, one new fuel injector that the harness was broken. All fuses are fine, relay replaced on ECM and fuel pump in the inside kick panel. Seeing some generic codes on the Blue Driver OBD2 reader nothing obvious. ABS module code ( C1145), 1 transfer case / 4x4 control module U2023, 1 instrument panel control module/PATS (code B1352) and 1 Power train control module (P1000) & 1 Restraint control module code (B2292) We're going to try the sensor tomorrow and hopefully you solved the expensive mystery. If anyone else reads this and has similar fixes besides the Sensor please share. A very reputable shop couldn't figure it out. If we can't figure it out Ford dealership here we come.
Your spending money on things you can test to see if there good. The sensor here is a cylinder head temp sensor. Also you have coolant temp sensor looks similar. Look at your cats. Just unhook exhaust before you buy them. There’s lots of sensors take it to reputable shop for diagnostics. Sounds like yur in over yur head.
Is this called temp.censor could some one tell me thank you
Help I have both sensors change and the car is still doing the same thing also change
My vehicle won’t start unless it’s less then 70 degrees outside Once it gets over 75 or so then it won’t start. Any ideas?
06 e350 5.4. no fuel no spark, replaced crank sensor still no go. It will crank. Trying to help someone stuck near the area of the Rafael wildfires.
Fuel sending relay or fuse may be the only thing to look at. You can't get spark without the fuel pressure being detected in the system and it's either a dead fuel pump or regulator but most commonly in the summertime the fuses go pretty easy.
I put on a new fuel pump and it still won't start. What's wrong with it, help
Its those darned “little things” that’ll make you pull your hair out. :)
My 2003 Ford Expedition cranks but won’t start, already replaced battery, alternator and fuel filter. Any suggestions? Don’t want to spend all the money on a fuel pump if it turns out to not be the issues and vice versa with the coils and plugs. Any suggestions?
Crank sensor or ignition switch
Thx im going to try it. My 2001 mercury sable ran really good but than wont start. Its cranking but just wont turn over and i changed the spark plugs and even the starter
On a Mercury sable if it's the four cylinder rare but true check the timing belt, if it's the V6 and it's got no spark then your crank sensor has gone out.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thanks man!
I have a 99 escort. Started but when i pull it off the battery it ran funky until put back on. Replaced the altenator and now it wont start but it still cranks.
By removing the battery to do a alternator test which was a technique most common used *before* computers and modern ignition systems were in cars, you destroyed the ignition system, sensors or computer in the car like in most all cases it has been done. Older cars electrical system could handle significant voltage spikes without damage, but post 1981 in most cases such acts will damage sensitive electronics. Battery removed the voltage can spike over 30 volts in a Escorts wiring. The battery in responding to the regulation circuit keeps it at 14.4 max and the electronics are designed to handle so up to 15.5 at most. Yours likely ran rough due to high voltage advancing timing and injector pulse till power was pulled or engine stopped. Following damage would occur with the removal of power (when it was high) all the sudden which can destroy crank sensors, the Body Control Relay system, and the injectors. Radios and headlights have inboard resistors and such to stop uncommon surges in most of them.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 can the ignition system be replaced. Cause i just replaced the coil and its still not getting any power to the coil. So not sure.
@@Donkeyjuice2 In the Escort you have a few items that can fail, one very common no power to coil is the fuse labeled ROOM and one labeled ENGINE on your inside fuse box, the other is one labeled FUEL INJ is under the hood in the box there. What is most likely is a failed fuse or Fuseable Link. Heres a diagram, for locating. fuse-box.info/ford/ford-escort-1997-2003-fuses-and-relays The last possible is the power on Relay to the engine itself. My suggestion is pull fuses and check them and replace all that are bad. As for relays the car has a *Constant control relay module* ebay.us/CiRpT6 (PCM relay CCRM) that can be damaged which controls features from the key to the run. Last possible is the FUEL CUT in the trunk(rear right inner panels) that when a wreck happens cuts power to fuel and ignition.
Disconnect the filter sensor then try to start it ,or find your solenoid and disconnect the cable then get a screwdriver put contact on the bar where you disconnected the solenoid cable there will be another bar either to the left or right and make it so both touch it should start. make sure you position the key to the right in the ignition where the radio turns on . You're welcome
My 1989 Ford explorer won't start. Put now fuel pump and still won't start. Help
Was this part actually fix my problem my problem I thought I was
Hello I got into a accident 4 years ago with my 2010 ford fusion and went to fix it now but the collision saying it won't crank up so I changed the keys and still same can you please let me know what can be the problem also the hit os from the front
Fuel cut off inertia switch is tripped or damage caused wiring issues.
Would this work on an 07 Mercury Mountaineer Premier. The suv won't start unless it's jumped. The battery, alternator, ignition, and starter are all fine but SUV will not start.
IF this helps, send a tip: www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL
To assure your not low voltage failing, test the sitting voltage of the battery. 2 hours after last drive, test the battery voltage, has to be over 12.6 volts. ( if not you have a bad battery even if Autozone says its good) If it is 12.6+ then open the relay box under the hood, is it dirty inside, these tend to not be sealed well and corrosion affects the relays. Pull the starter relay, swap with another of same amperage, start the SUV. If it starts then shut off, replace the relay.
If this does not work, have a second person turn the key on while your voltage testing the battery. If the fuel pump kicks on and the volts drop to under 12.4 on the battery, you likely have a failing fuel pump that is drawing high amps causing the battery to fail to deliver the power to start or operate relays.
When your jump starting the vehicle your supplying 14+ volts to the weak parts, making them work. But not able to start with normal battery volts.
I have a question will this work on my Ford Focus 2010 like with my car it starts up like it runs but a few hours later when I go to crank it it won’t start but at night time it starts up what problem could that be?
Usually when something goes out of parameter due to being hot on one of these cars it's either the coil pack or the crank sensor
I have a 1994 Ford F150 I replace that part on mine and it still does the same thing after my truck gets hot then I try to start it it does not start until it gets cold any suggestions
Most of the time a hot (no Start) condition is due to the coils, coil pack or crank sensor. Rarely it may be the computer due to aging capacitors in it.
The computer is calculating a mixture and forcing it to be tooo leane possibly pumping the gas pedal lot in it might start So the sensor is bad I had a car I simply turned ignition to the on position for a few seconds and it would then start.... acted lean...
Mine is sohc 2.0 escort 2000 and it's throwing all sorts of sensor codes started sputtering and now won't start. Will this make it throw codes?
Generally the codes that these vehicles want to throw or to do with environmental issues such as exhaust system air system. But the symptoms you're defining say crank sensor, fuel pressure regulator and temperature sensor. Generally when they do the sputtering it's because something is out of parameter the way that old capacitors start acting up in old electronics. I would definitely consider the fuel pressure regulator on these cars as they have a common behavior like you defined but the temperature sensor can cause a similar issue by restricting the fuel pulse to the injectors. The crank sensor if the plastic body is cracked can also cause the same symptoms. If the car has over 150,000 miles on it those are your three items.
I have a 1999 ford escort zx2 will turn over but won’t start, trouble code p1116, p1000, and p0141. I replaced the cam shaft sensor. But would a coolant temperature sensor actually keep the car from starting? The code p1116 is a ECT sensor code.
Yes, a failed coolant temperature sensor will tell the computer the engine is in emergency mode and it will not send spark or allow the fuel pump to fully run to get you up and running. If it's got over 80,000 miles on it replacing the sensor is a standard maintenance feature anyhow. The Thomson 4037 seems to be the most accurate ones I'll send you the link amzn.to/3zyqaQX
My 12 Ford Focus cranks but won’t start, sometimes it gives a flutter like it wants to start but never does. My mechanic can’t figure out what’s going on. Anyway I can send a video to see what you think? I’ve changed SO many parts out and he’s been baffled for weeks. I’m extremely frustrated! Thanks either way!
Transmission switch. They get brittle and the computer thinks it's in gear so it won't start. May do a dieseling effect due to fuel in cylinders but dead on the ignition coil. Slowly work the shifter back and forth park to neutral while cranking on it, see if it has any effect. If I get it right you can applaud me a few bucks.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 10-4 I will mention this to my mechanic and if all is well I will DEFINITELY be back to send you a donation. Thank you!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 as soon as I get some money up I want to send you some!! Between God and you my car started running!!! Now back to DoorDashing !!! Been 4 mths no work !!
I having a similar situation on 96 thunder bird it turns over for a minute and then stops any suggestions
Turns Over? Do you mean it starts, then idles for a minute and dies? Or do you mean starter spins ( turns over engine ) for a minute and stops! Most common not continuing to run after start on a T-bird in those year models with 3.8 liter and 4.6 V8 is the following:
Coil Pack related, Fuel Pump old and sluggish - Fuel Regulator issues, Crank Sensor goes out of parameter when hot, Low Coolant level stall, or Idle Control Circuit issue.
Hey could this be my problem on a 2000 crown vic 4.6 i have fuel and spark but i still have to double crank or step on the gas to turn over afterwards i smell the extra fuel getting burned off in exhast once car is on its fine no stalls or nothing
My diagnosis with 90% accuracy - Fuel injectors are leaking down when the car sits for any period of time, causing flooded gas in the engine, second attempt allows pressure to balance, cylinders to clear, and when it starts it pushes out the raw gas, stinks. Replace injectors amzn.to/3CShLKH and fuel regulator amzn.to/3NXDvLy
Disconnect the battery while doing the swap out so it is safe and clears the computer memory. If it fixes you, send Kiera a tip www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL
I have a 2002 Ford explorer sport Trac won't crank and start but all gauges are working what will I do? Thanks sir
Common failure on those is crank sensor or insufficient fuel supply.
Check for spark, none found then go for crank sensor.
Hi I have a 2009 f450 triton 6.8 and it cranks but no star I used starting fluid it starts but dies right away any suggestions,?
2 common issues.
Crank sensor amzn.to/3HgCKrz
Fuel pressure sensor amzn.to/3FiHriJ
If the crank sensor is going bad it will run on starter fluid in a dieseling effect but you're ruining your valves, if the fuel pressure sensor is bad it will not activate the computer's function to fire the injectors. Replace both and then pull for codes.
Would that be the same with a 1990 taurus sho start all the time and all of sudden it crank like it's out of timing and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes and then the car start no problem
Camshaft position sensor acting up and may be due to timing belt and or tensioners getting bad. Replace both, should be good.
About every few days or more my 4.0 ranger wont start. Turns over and everything just doesn't fire up. But if I come back a few hours later it fires right up. And this seems to happen on the hotter days. Already put a camshaft position sensor on it and still not starting at times. So I'm hoping this temp sensor might fix my problem.
Also willing to listen to any suggestions, thanks.
Had codes Cam position sensor and running lean bank 1 & 2 changed that and the heat sensor problem is still there and yes it has something to do with heating up
Message to both of you, Jayme I sent you a email on this info
My years of best guess - only 3 things can give you all 3 problems your dealing with, Coil Pack, Fuel Pump or fuel Pump Relay.
Year model tells me Fuel Pump.
Common pre 2002 is the weak fuel pump due to loss of line pressure will cause the occasional lean burn which may be causing rough idle ( weak explosions) on front 2 cylinders, and will stick when hot.
The fuel pump is in the tank, not hard to replace. If it has not been replaced in many years may wish to also replace the fuel rail regulator, relay and filters.
WHY? Common, not assured fact on yours --- When the fuel pump is hot, and you stop it sticks in its bearings, it is a electric motor with sleeve bearings. While its running from cold to hot its still got momentum to run, once you stop the heat jumps up, swells the bearing surface and hold it from spinning. It can throw out the Fuel Pump Relay and act like a full no start, when both cool and the metal surfaces shrink back they start working.
**Very rare but possible is Idle Air Control valve, Throttle Position Sensor, Open fuel regulator or EGR causing idle/start issues.
The Fuel issue will plug up your filter so replace it too.
TAKE YOUR NEGATIVE CABLE OFF YOUR BATTERY DURING ENTIRE JOB!!!!
FUEL PUMP Complete unit, car too old to reboot older styles.
amzn.to/31H7Jdv
Fuel Filter
amzn.to/34Nwere
Fuel Line Key ( must have )
amzn.to/3hJlA8K
**(possible) 4.0 Idle Air Control Valve
amzn.to/2ERFEHy
Let me know what the outcome it, nice find for the price. I got a 2001 or 2004 (not sure) sitting in my field, 155K miles, drives, but needs a trans pump or at least filter in trans changed. Want it??
Hi
My Ford 2003 F350 super duty is doing the same thing I was driving up a hill died out and it has a crank no start it backfires in the intake and it grabs gas for like a few seconds but then it just sputters and dies I'm also going to try the temperature sensor tomorrow and give it a test and hopefully that's it
Me again just wanted to let you know that my truck doesn't start it just sputters for a second and then dies the other problems they were saying when their truck got hot it died and then a couple hours later it came back on mine doesn't do that mine doesn't start. It left me stranded I had to have a tow truck take me home besides that my starter was going out so I changed that besides that I'm changing my coils in my spark plugs because they were bad anyways and now I'm still changing my starter so I might as well change the temperature sensor and I'm going to hope that it starts right up after all these few things that I did because I wanted to do them but my main issue is possibly just the temperature sensor I changed my coil in my plugs because I wanted to I change my starter because it's been acting up over the last 6 months I've noticed so hopefully putting the temperature sensor is the cream on the icing on the cake as they say and I could drive into the wind and live happily ever after I'll keep you posted I'm going to change it tomorrow spend the 60 or 70 bucks that they say it cost and put it in wish me luck we have God on our side so we don't need luck let's hope that this manufacturer piece was causing the problem for it to die out and not start at all it only sputters for a second with an intake backfire burst of a boom. I will keep you posted
My 2000 mazda 626 2.5 liter has a hard to start when warm problem .I am looking at the ECT sensor which is located right beside the sender for the dash temp gauge sender like you showed . My understanding is that the ECT sends a signal to the ECM which is ohms/resistance which varies according to the coolant temp . The warmer the engine the leaner the air fuel mix needed . But I have not heard anything about the ECT telling the ecu not to allow gas to the engine if the engine has gotten too hot . I have found that when my engine is warm and thus hard to start ,that if I open the throttle plate to allow more air in it lets the engine clears the flood condition and start . Do you think we are talking about the same type of module but that I just did not know that it will also shut off fuel to the engine and prevent starting if the engine has gotten too hot to safely run ? Seems feasable to me . I am hoping this ect is the problem because I have already tried 2 aftermarket IAC's even though one did seem to help in other ways I still have the hard start when warm problem. So if the ECT does not fix things I am looking at $500 plus for a dealer/OEM IAC .
On those engines, you will go totally out of parameter with a failed INTAKE AIR TEMP sensor. Should be right part - amzn.to/4387mWp From what you describe, It is appearing air mix related. The IAT is more then not likely bad. After about 15 years they always go bad anyhow, replace it. What the IAT does is tell the computer where to hold the air valve, when they fail they fail high, so the computer thinks the air is very hot, so to stop from Dieseling and knocking it chokes the heck out of it. May not be absolute for the fix, but by your description AIR/FUEL is the issue and the computers compensation is the result your getting. ALSO, delete any codes after replacing.
my 07 Expedition has crank no start situation that is followed by a beep and the oil pressure light on the dash. There are no DTC codes. Would this video be replacing the oil temperature sensor or coolant temperature sensor?
Check fuel pump to see if it's operating. A beep is a over load signal which can mean a bad or locked up fuel pump or a tripped fuel pump safety switch. Turn on key while someone listens for the pump to run and shut off in the tank.
@@JOHNDANIEL1fuel pressure at Schrader valve on fuel rail is good. The beep occurs with a oil pressure light. I replaced a bad oil pump with no oil pressure. I have oil pressure now, but the same crank no start condition with beep and oil symbol on dash. There is a constant Check Engine light but no DTC codes. New battery, new oil pressure sensor, and newer starter. I think the PCM needs to be reflashed. The oil pickup tube was clogged but is clean now. I will also try a new crankshaft position sensor and clean the oil filter adapter housing but think it is PCM related.
Your computer is still seeing no oil in it's memory and sends the BEEP to note that. To reset the 2007 Ford Expedition oil light and computer hold on the engine, You will start by turning the ignition to the "RUN" position. Press the "SELECT / RESET" button to display "OIL LIFE = % HOLD RESET = NEW." Pressing and holding the "SELECT / RESET" stem for 2 seconds which will allow You to reset to 100%
Cold start will come sir
Hello sir, I have a 1990 Econoline,5.8 ltr, sits alot, hasn't been started for 6 weeks was running ok before that, Wouldn't start, no spark, replaced coil still no start replaced distributor, started right up . Drove it to the store, no issues, drove it home, about 5 miles, started lunging then died. starts when cold and runs til it gets warm, then died. will not start up until it cools off, then runs til warm and dies. Any suggestions?
Your Lucky Day,
The majority of them that do this it is the Fuel Pump. Or fuel pump related. amzn.to/3UxV9qe for inline single tank model, Center tank model amzn.to/3UDUhQS Rear tank model amzn.to/3fmUSpV
The pump gets hot, starts to seize up so it slows down, Filter amzn.to/3r9wMSe is already plugged some, now engine is starved of fuel, and dies. And BE DAMN SURE to get the ford fuel tool amzn.to/3R8uo97
The hot armature in the pump hangs up on the worn bearing surfaces, and its made very weak when hot. Pressure drops and the regulator can not keep open. It is common, but not enough to throw the fuse or breaker. After it cools, it returns to free spinning. If it hits the target, and I saved you, drop a nickel or dime www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL Install a fuel pressure gauge on it, if it starts to loose pressure when sitting running, then your cure is found. Fuel Pressure Regulator amzn.to/3dK0ha8 would be Guess 2, Some models had Crank Sensors and they may crack open further when hot loosing hall effect signal and that would be guess 3, then temp sensor guess 4 And last guess if you have dual tanks is the A to B change over valve solenoid is failing and loosing fuel prime.
Wow, I thought motor craft was right up there in quality, maybe just in the past I guess .
They were, Until they sold out to Ming Chow Puke company in the Motocrap prison labor camp in Vietnam.
Јоhn Daniel , a disappointing trend
I have a 2013 ford e150 4.6 I cant find that sensor. Mine will start by dies right after.
Starts but quickly dies, or stutters then dies, check fuel pressure regulator first, fuel pump second. Third thing is voltage to the Coil Packs or Coil pack connectors. Fourth thing, but rare is Mass Air Flow sensor bad or its grid is detecting blockage or inadequate air flow through the filter and intake. Last thing may be the Crank Position Sensor, failing to register forward timing after start.
My 99 / 5.4 /2 valve has been sitting for a couple years & ran fine when parked. Now, as I crank the engine over it tries to fire but doesn't catch. Even stating fluid does nothing. Any ideas ????? Thanks
If the Crankshaft Position Sensor lined up with the magnet on the crank pully and it sat that long it likely caused your sensor to fail. About a 90% assurance on this, Either way due to age, Replace crank sensor, this one is likely the one that fits. amzn.to/3iBoP3b
Your Distributer/Ignition spark system operates on it.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 / Ok, thanks so much for the tip....
@@alibertylover Did it work??
surprising a coolant temp sensor is the problem, i will try this change on my no start explorer v6 how could this be? i have problem starting cold
Yes things are indirectly linked or the engine management is set up so that if one signal is not present, it stops the next command from being processed
What happen
After changing it.
I have the same problem right now
My 1990 460 Ford won't start after its been running for awhile. Battery is all good. It use to not crank at all after it had been running then I put a new starter which didn't do much then I put heat shield around the started and heat wrap around the exhaust where it could be overheating the starter. Seemed to help now it'll crank just a little bit but still not start. Truck seems to run fine other then that.
If a brand new starter don't fix it, I would remove the rotor cap, then rotate the crank while looking at the distributor rotor. If the rotor turns with the crank stop and turn it slowly the other way. See if any how much slack you have in the timing chain. 3/8" a inch can be 1/2+ inch when engines hot (5 degrees!!) even with the slack adjusters. So, If you notice the rotor isn't following the crank when turned you may have a worn chain. If timing chain is worn out, the timing problem will cause it to struggle to start when hot due to heat expanding the chain even more then throwing you off real far past 12 degrees.
Јоhn Daniel thank you I will try this!
I have a 93 Ford probe no spark ended up buying a fuel pump distributor and now crankshaft positioning sensor to see if it will get fire even the mechanic can’t figure it out..
Open distributor, have someone spin engine, if rotor does not turn, timing belt.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 worth a shot 🤙🏼
Would this stop it from getting fuel and spark?
Do not know if you have a 4-cyl or V6 but On the Probe you have a few things that would stop both Fuel and Spark. Inertial Safety Switch on fuel source, Ignition switch itself is failed and not sending power to fuel and ignition relays, or the ECM computer for the car. And at that age, the Transmission Neutral Safety switch.
If I get no spark can this still be my problem?
On these automobiles sometimes no spark means crank sensor fail. If you're turning the engine over and you can smell raw gas pulsing through the injectors coming out the tail pipe of the engine and you're getting zero spark check with the crank sensor that fires the coils and see if it's bad they're usually about 25 bucks and should be replaced every 75,000 miles anyhow. On some of them the park detent switch or neutral safety switch on the transmission can also cause the same effect if you recently had weird actions coming from that area of a no start check it too.
Can you please tell me we're the temperature coolant sensor is on a f150 5,4L 3v triton 2006
Under the intake manifold, on the passenger side in the head, back past midway. You have to remove the intake manifold to replace them.
@JOHNDANIEL1 i replaced one under three is there another one under there, my fan clutch is not coming on gage says it's hot but its not i can shut truck off and it goes back to normal
When this happens ac shuts off to
Sounds like Fan Control Relay or Module for your truck may be the issue. But if its showing HOT, then goes to cold after restarting ( back to normal) then you likely have a issue again with your temp sensor.
The AC is causing the electric fan to run, a override feature. So your actually needing a temp SENDING unit. It should be located near the water inlet on the intake area from top radiator hose/thermostat location, Inspect it for loose plug first, this is the common part to replace it. amzn.to/3DRIs2u The Fan Control Relay seems fine but replace it too while your at it.
Where is it on a 1987 e150 5.0?
One sensor the ECT SENSOR is found right above the thermostat housing follow the top radiator hose back to the engine to find that, the temp sending sensor will be located just to your right behind the distributor going into the intake manifold. But on this year model of truck I would suggest if it's a no start issue checking with TFI and replacing it or your entire distributor. If you need a parts list of these items let me know. But I have replaced many of distributor to get one running immediately on this year model 302 v8s. If it's gets you up and running and saves you a thousand bucks don't be afraid to drop me a tip by hitting the thanks button underneath the videos.
Plz help 1996 ford F250 GAS takes 2 or more times to start and also sputters around 45 mph on occasion. Way worse when the weather is hot. What steps should I take?
Oh and sometimes smell gas when it doesn’t start. But it does still run and drive almost every day. Just really crappy now 💔
Sounds like Fuel Pressure regulator going bad or more than one fuel injector with issues. I would look at fuel regulator and possible the Idle Air Control valve on it. Worse when hot outside, but not hot engine already says fuel issues.
Has anybody made experience with that Problem on a 1992 ford escort xr3i 1.8L 130 horse Power? 🙄 I have the same problem. Everthings fine but the Motor does not Start...
Sounds like a broke timing belt. Open the oil cap, have someone spin the engine a little, if nothing is moving down in the valve cover the belt is broke. Sometimes on a 1992 check the crank sensor or cam sensors.
I’ve got a 92 f-250 that I just can’t figure out. Had a mechanic tell me it was electrical got nothing out of him! Took it to another shop that said I fuel pumps. A day later won’t start after putting in 2 new tanks and Pumps. Cranks and stats at random whenever it feels like it. Any ideas?
What engine, and tell me more details. Hard to start? Rough when started? Engine size and miles on it?
I have a Ford fiesta 1l eco boost , crank no start when i try to start i can hear some pop noise so I know I got fuel and spark but quand seem to find the issue
Fuel Pressure regulator on those is common to cause that. See if you smell unburned gas from the exhaust, if it is a present but weak smell, look at the fuel pressure regulator. If not the ignition/timing module is going bad. Unlikely it could be weak fuel pump, so if it started doing this on and off then stopped running completely, check the fuel pump and its components.
Thanks For responding to me , so basically I’m going to explain the best I can because it’s very difficult to explain something to someone who’s not able to see the car like I do , (2013 ford fiesta 1l ecoboost ) so i used tu have the p053f code but now I god no codes , i have a yellow check engine light and a red oil light I will try to look at the live data of my fuel pressure on my obd 2 and I’ll get back to you !
Those 2 lights on at the same time will be common in a blown motor. Check oil level, pull all spark plugs and check for damage. A pop can be connecting rod noise, and with anything broke in those engines the timing system stops so no spark.
Would a scan tool pick this up?
Not normally. The no start event happens with a key off not running condition so the computer isn't monitoring.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 What else could it be if it's not the heat sensor
@@jaymestevens9816 Send me a full detailed question and the cars details on the problem to my email, I can better respond olympicpowercontrols@yahoo.com
would this cause a rough idle, surge & stall out?
Check 3 THINGS. fuel regulator, fuel pump, and idle air control valve that may be more likely culprits of that issue.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 already changed all 3 plus alot of other parts.
What's the vehicle, model year, engine and transmission.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 98 ranger 2.5 5 speed manual
Okay common issues with those is: coolant sensor, MAF SENSOR, leaking intake gasket, vacuum leaks, and O2 sensors causing such actions. Rare but occasional: timing belt slack, crank sensor failing, throttle position sensor, and capacitors failing in computer.
Anyone ever tell you that you sound like Ron White:)
Yeah a few times I get it a lot from my cousin tater salad.
I've exloler 2002 3times take long time cranking to star
Last one
Stop work.
I scan found P0353
P0141
P0155 !!!
P0161
P0198
What I need to do?
Thanks
these vehicles are notorious for crank sensor failure, a crank sensor is like an old style distributor but electronic. Many codes can cause additional codes based on one default function, pull the battery post off a negative let set for 3 hours, go back out reconnect the battery and do a start procedure if it'll start. See if it'll do a trip around the block and if the engine light code comes on then that's when you need to get your more accurate codes or the problem. Most of the time it's simpler than you think.
My 2001 Ford ranger was starting good, then nothing... no click no nada...turn the key and nothing.. quiet..
If the lights radio and other general items like the fans still come on, then you have a solenoid failure somewhere between the ignition and the starter. The rangers have a couple of relays that energize the system related to running and starting and then I have a solenoid for spinning the starter.
hey man you still out there? i’m needing help with mine
Still here, I've just been busting my butt to completely get out of debt which I have about achieved and will be doing a lot more online to help people out.
I have always said - I do not like the fact that modern / computerized engines run off sensors. Yes - I like new / modern computerized vehicles - and generally modern / computerized vehicles have dependability - IF - engineered well. So - to the point - it is complete BS that a
$20 sensor ( without an direct output ) will keep the engine from operating .
Ford started the right idea by committing to a body control module, however they dropped it after a few years before it got a chance to be perfected, it had its own harness and tunability but we turned it into a fail then Ford stopped making cars and only started making SUVs and trucks.
I have a 370z just cranks and won’t start car never had issues then outta no where crank no. Start I’m hoping this is the issue
Heat sensor turns off the fuel injectors, fuel inertia safety switch turns off fuel and spark, cranks sensor would stop spark. Check for spark and listen close at tank filler to see if you hear the fuel pump kick on while somebody cycles the key in action make sure everything is quiet around you to listen for it..
Another thing when I'm thinking of it, if it's a manual transmission then the neutral safety switch can fail so that's another option and they won't leave any codes.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I’ve had that fail and it created a no crank condition where the vehicle would just cycle from off to acc then would not go to on but that heat sensor sounds more like it because it’s not flooding I would assume if the fuel injection is spraying and there’s no spark there should be a flooding condition
@@JOHNDANIEL1 actually maybe this would shine some light so I have two different cars with the same engine now here’s where I’m confused one car the fuel pulse is with 2 to 8 on acc now my other vehicle the injector pulse is at 25 prior to have bad pressure it was at 15 I did the pump and damper that brang pressure back.
Was having an issue with my 1999 Ranger, it's a 2.5 liter. I could get it to run but it was dying out randomly. Replaced fuel pump, plugs, wires, and coils. Have new injectors have just yet to put them in.
I was still having issues but the truck would start and run but would still die. The other day I went to start it and got nothing. Poked around a bit and discovered I wasn't getting fuel pressure. I swapped the fuel pump relay with my horn relay because they're the same and my fuel pressure returned.
However it still won't start. I'm lost. :(
I got the same problem With my 96 Ford ranger New fuel pump pressure regulator spark plugs now I’m trying this let’s see what happens
@@raulsilva3540did it turn on i have the same problem i have everything but no start