Thanks for this series. I’m having a crank no start after doing a head gasket and I’m taking good notes to be able to rule things out fully one by one. I love how you follow through with testing things that are unlikely to be the issue.
@@TTV_TOXIC_MAD_YT I’m definitely having a fuel pressure drop, honestly it’s been taking months bc I procrastinate and basically let it sit. Parents gave it to me for my bday one year and it was sitting then, I haven’t gotten it registered yet. The other day I was gonna do a final test to see if the pressure drop was the delivery (so something before the fuel rail) but the battery was dead
You are a true inspiration Matt. There isnt a single technician where i live that can actually properly troubleshoot like you. I have a Hummer H2 that has intermittent starting issues and can not figure it out.....i have done all kinds of tests and trails on it, but here is wgat i feel sums it up real fast. 1. Jumper cables run from battery down to starter main stud and starter housing, not fixing it.....eliminated the main positive and ground cables to starter.... 2. Jumper cables as extra ground from starter housing to block, starter housing to frame, starter housing to negative battery terminal......not working....further eliminates any grounding issue.... 3. Jumper cables from our other truck (2007 Yukon) to the Hummers battery.....not making a difference eliminates the Hummers battery. (And it tested good under load test at O'Reilly's)..... 4. Using a small 18 gauge jumper wire from the "S Stud" to the "Main hot stud" on the starter not starting it....... eliminates ALL ignition side..... correct? (Eliminates ignition switch, neutral safety switch, AND things like the PCM, body modules, relays, ect correct?) All this started after having transmission rebuilt......so we tried to eliminate theory that the Bendix might be binding on flywheel and not fully extending.....by adding a "shim".....which didnt fix it either. Is there anything else i could have possibly missed as a possibility besides the starter itself??? (Skeptical its the starter because put 2 brand new GM starters in within a year and both had this intermittent starting problem) Please help me, im going crazy! Sure wish our truck could be one of your case studies. :)
Thanks for the compliments. On an intermittent like that I would probably change the strategy up. It seems you are trying to create conditions to always get it to start but because it’s intermittent this isn’t the best approach. What you want to do is try to create conditions that catch it when it fails. I would begin by first trying to determine if this is a load side or control side issue. Measuring the voltage drop on the control side would show when the issue happens if it’s being caused on control side or load side and then you can narrow in accordingly. If, say, you determine it’s on load side, set up a voltage drop measurement to the starter solenoid and get issue to occur again. When it occurs again you will know if it’s a voltage drop issue or a component issue. You need to catch the issue happening and have monitors to make determinations of what failed, as opposed to trying to make it never happen because even if you never make it happen, you won’t know the specific location of the issue.
@@SchrodingersBox catching it happening isn't a problem now, as it's now so bad it almost never starts. (It went from starting 19 out of 20 times a year ago, to starting 1 out of 20 times currently) over the life of 2 brand new GM starters. (If the new starter is bad, there has to be something prematurely shortening their lifespan) I wish I was much smarter on this than I am, but I started with measuring volts on everything possible including trying voltage drop tests from your videos. When I would measure for voltage drop at the starter (main always hot stud and the starter housing) it would only drop around .6 volts (less than 1 volt) BUT....that is when it didn't start. Never got a reading of how much it dropped when it started though. (Is Measuring the voltage drop when it doesn't start......what we need, or do we need the voltage drop when it does start?). At first I thought we need the drop when it doesn't start but then others acted like it's such a small drop, that's not the actual draw of the starter and I need the drop when it does start. (Since then I haven't been able to get it to start to see the drop when it does start) I did all kinds of tests trying to narrow it down like that.....but then with help on a Hummer forum, they had me try the jumper cables tests. I hate to even ask this....but are you sure you read the jumper cables tests above correctly? Because I wasn't trying to get it to not start ....but trying to get it to start.....with those jumper cables tests. And none of them helped it start properly. As far as I understand, the one test eliminates the battery for sure, one eliminates the cables going to starter for sure, another eliminates bad grounds, and the other eliminates ALL things on ignition side. Feel very stupid for asking this question but is the "load side" the main hot wire going to starter from battery? Is the "control side" what I call the "ignition side"? (Relay, ignition switch, neutral safety switch, PCM, ect?)
One of my absolute favourite videos of yours Matt. I always find your videos interesting, entertaining and very informative, but for me personally this little series is at the top of the tree.
I always loved spaghetti, but why so many car truck problems throughout life? Love the common sense concepts money and time saving ideas. This doesn't make sense that one problem to another keeps happening for me but for a conspiracy. One night squirrel attack took out four by eating wiring. Why not any of my neighbors. Along that line can I train them for revenge? Sorry for the wrong question and attitude. Still could be possibly politically useful.
Thanks Matt, your videos are awsome, I fix cars because of you, I don't live near Colorado, Fast tec, this method works so good on no start, my Ecm was the problem, no crank therefore no start, tested pins 6 and 14 at the obd reader connection under the dash, 123 ohms should be 60 ohms to be no computers blown, eventually after disconnecting the Bcm, Pcm, and Igm, no change in ohms, found the Ecm disconnected was the problem, ohms reading on the digital volt meter went to zero, thanks Matt.
Damn dude, I need to find a mechanic like you. I do most things DIY, but diagnosis requires a holistic understanding of all systems, and there's an acute lack of actual engineers and scientifically minded people to diagnose my car in my area. I had a mechanic guess that my lack of power / no start was a clogged catalytic converter, but he didn't even test it, didn't even take out o2 sensors or disconnect the cat and try to start it, just "yeah thats probably it. Get that changed and we can go from there."
This series of video's is gold! Understanding the systems involved is vital for correct diagnosis and the method presented is a valuable tool - this information is exactly what I need. Thanks!
+WMDeception Thanks man- you are correct and make a great point about "systems". That is exactly how I look at any diagnostic I do- I see things as Systems, not individual components. I'll have to mention that in a future video in fact- very well said man!!!
Dang Swami.... Excellent instruction.. "I'm not Worthy". Next, I hope you have a video on: no control to the injectors, because thanks to you, I found out that's my issue! Plenty of fuel and pressure, no electricity to the injectors.... You da Man!!
Had three cars in the late 90s with a 3800 good engine had 250 to 300 thousand miles on each coil packs spark plug wires modulator under the coil pack looking forward to your next video see what's wrong with the old girl brings back a lot of memories thanks for the videos
Dude, you are awesome! Reasons are: 1. "Settle down Honda boys" i drive a honda, i love it, but i hate ricers. 2. You used serendipitous PROPERLY 3. You are ENCOURAGING do it yourself on cars... thank you. Faith in humanity: RESTORED
This is a great basic troubleshooting approach generalized for any car. He also makes a good case for knowing the minutia behind troubleshooting, like knowing how DVMs measure average voltage. I will add that on fairly modern cars (e.g. a 2008 Nissan Versa) a lot of these steps are pretty time consuming because basic things that were once readily available are now obscured and difficult to access (like spark plugs, fuel connections, etc.).
Great video, Matt. I wish more of the docs I work with shared your algorithmic sensibility. Would save loads in unwarranted and costly tests in the hospital. You'd make a killer physician with the way you chip away at a diagnosis.
U don't like getting dirty because u are a princess..lol I love your videos..u r teaching me alot I been working on my truck LS1 5.3 with crank an no start.an again u are helping me..thank you
I am a subscriber since a few days ago and I am CONFIDENT you are a true TECHNICiAN. I am so enthused to be learning from a pro such as yourself. I will be purchasing your paid subscription service as I believe it is worth every penny. (money is tight and can't justify it with the girlfriend after purchasing so much the last three weeks in tools alone.) I just want to say thanks for helping me out so much. looking forward to watching all your videos Matt.
hello Matt watched all three fasttec videos and feel they should be called fantastic. you do a great job explaining things so us do it yourselfers can understand.. your the best . I enjoyed the videos even though I ended up not needing them since I added a bottle of HEET to my gas tank while watching them . went out next morning and the old ford ranger started right up. Beautiful Wisconsin whether don't you know. Thanks anyway for the great info . Jimmer Crouch.
Thanks. curious- what was the diagnostic you performed to gather data thaty indicated HEET was necessary to remedy the issue? Most people just randomly guess like idiots when they use that product.
correct it was a guess .but since we had a very warm week prior to this problem condensation in fuel line seemed like a good guess . a common problem up here in the north woods.
Hi Matt,I would like to add one simple issue to "crank no start "list ,I have accidently damaged an old brittle plastic top of my coolant temp.sensor , so my 2001 toyota camry 2.2l wont start.it will cause same result if a wiring to that sensor is damaged .I have found that is a kind of protection to the engine . I do believe that modern cars have a few more protection sensors in the system.so please consider to check the wiring connection to them other way ...crank no start ...will continue . I'm very grateful to you for sharing your knowledge with other needy people .the way you presented the issue is very encouraging to me so I'm going to learn more about that from you ,thank you very much ! Krzysztof
Excellent work, this helped me quickly and accurately troubleshoot my no start condition. Your videos are helpful and just what advanced diy need. Thanks!!
Could you have tested the fuel injectors by priming the fuel pump with the gauge attached, then disconnecting the fuel pump relay and cranking the engine once, while watching the needle?
Matt, thanks for including the test in which you left the fuel rail pressurized and manually fired the injector. The test clearly excluded another possibility -- that an injector with fuel pressure and pulse from the ECU is not delivering fuel because it is clogged. I have only ever tested individual fuel injectors when their removal was a step in a broader maintenance task. I never performed the test you did, because I doubted that a suitably brief pulse of an injector would generate a conclusive change in fuel pressure. Your test clearly shows that the test is informative and has a benefit that can be weighed against the risk of shorting out the ECU during testing. As a bit of an aside, I was surprised when you got your hand greasy that you didn't wipe it off on a Haynes manual. It just goes to show that you should always wear Mechanix brand gloves when working on a car...
Matt, have you ever considered getting an oscilloscope? A great test for injectors is back probe the control side of the injector, and you would be able to see the current ramp, along with the "pintle hump", so you can actually verify the injector is mechanically opening based on that small change in voltage.
Yes James, I would love to get a scope- I would totally dig experimenting with one but the problem is I just don't see investing the money in one since I really don't work on a large enough volume of cars to justify the expense.
Schrodingers Box I an in the same boat as you. You can actually get into a one channel hobby scope for under a hundred bucks. I have one, and one you install the updated firmware, it is actually not to bad. Not a pro scope, but can capture waveforms.
Well hell- I didn't know I can get one for $100! I just spent $50 on a bore gauge that I'll never use just for my engine rebuild video lol!! What brand is this that you are referring to?
The DSO Nano v3 is what I have. Its a bit more difficult, but you will also want to upgrade it to the benf firmware. If you Google around, you can find a version that should work on V3. Or you can always get v2. They are bassicaly identical. You can find them on eBay/Amazon. They are no where near accurate enough to use in lab work, but are good enough to play around with in automotive. You can also plug in any probe made for any scope once you get some adapters. So you can look at secondary ignition, or get some back probing probes. You can see eBay for all the adapters. Pretty neat tool though for the money.
Hey again, Matt! This series, so far, is awesome! Looks like there are two more videos to watch tonight, too! :-D I wanted to be a nitpicky little jerk again... You'd mentioned in this video that voltmeters measure average voltage, and that you could expect to see 6VDC appear on the meter. I believe that in most cases, this is incorrect. DVOMs actually take samples at a predetermined interval, much like a Graphing Multimeter or an Oscilloscope. However, those samples are at a much, much slower rate than the latter two mentioned tools. Some DVOMs have an Average feature, which will typically be a separate setting, but I've only seen this on higher-end devices (Fluke 88 and the like). Every meter I've seen to have this setting, however, also has a setting to measure duty cycle and/or pulse width; a much more useful feature for poking at fuel injectors. :-)
Yes you are correct- One of my DVOM's does indeed show 6V on an injector while the one I used in the video normally would jump all over the place but it happened to fix at 10.5V in the video. Anyway the whole point is to alert people unfamiliar with using a DVOM on a "cycled" voltage that they may not see 12V and thus not to falsely suspect a failure when there isn't one.
Matt thanks for your videos as you definitely speak my language: articulate, rational and efficient. I’m currently having issues with a Ford Focus 2004. The garage has replaced the fuel pump but the engine cut out and crank no start got me again. I’ll go through the basic diag checks, ignition then fuel Being that the fuel pump was replaced I’m thinking I have a relay or timing sensor issue and doubtful the inertia switch is giving me probs by I’ll check that first. Thanks and God bless you Sir you are a gift to us ✌🏼
Good luck with it. just think FASTTEC and you will find it. Man I can even count how many times I received a car with a new fuel pump that didn’t need it. usually it was a voltage drop or wiring problem, not the fuel pump. This of course assumes it’s a fuel problem to begin with.
A cheap and easy way to simultaneously check all fuel injectors for pulse is to take a Light Emitting Diode "LED" (one for each injector) and solder a 680 ohm resistor to one leg of the LED so that the resistor is even in length with the other leg of the LED, then shove a LED into each (disconnected) fuel injector plug. Observe the polarity of the LED, +12V side of injector goes to plus (anode) side of LED. Then crank away. The LEDs will flash with each pulse.
I stumbled on your channel trying to troubleshoot my 88 F2 50 with a 5.0 L. Absolutely love your teaching techniques and the fact that you go into the understanding of why you're doing what you're doing. One thing I didn't see you touch on with fuel is having pressure at the rail during KOEO prime or cranking but losing pressure after the key is turned off. I have pressure at the Schrader valve during prime but when I turn the key off I lose pressure. I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator but the same problem persists. Dual tanks and it does it with both tanks so I am assuming the check valves are good
I've learned a lot from your videos, thanks. I had one problem with my car that your FASTTEC method didn't quite exactly solve. The problem was that I had 'A' spark, but it was insufficient for the car to start or run. I think there needs to be a test to not only determine if a spark is present, but if it is enough to make your car run. Since I'm not a professional, I don't know if this is a common problem or not. I spent a fair bit of time trying to find the problem, and eventually found that my ignition coil was bad. I think it was partially shorting out the side of the coil (as there was visible discoloration to the plastic enclosure). I was just using a steel rod in the spark plug wire to test for a spark to ground, and it did spark. Fortunately, I didn't swap out a ton of parts, I continued to test until I was fairly sure I'd found the problem.
If you have insufficient spark then FASTTEC would cover that since spark is the first thing. Checking spark doesn’t mean checking presence of spark. It means checking spark as a reason for failed combustion. Remember FASTTEC is checking reasons for lack of combustion caused by each variable.
I think your theory on fuel pressure and a restriction somewhere between the pump and injectors is a little off (please correct me if I'm wrong). If there was a restriction in the line somewhere I believe you would still be able to build full pressure with the ignition in the on position and perhaps even at idle however when under load you could then experience a pressure drop due to the inability to supply enough fuel through the restriction. 50 psi is still 50 psi whether it's going through a 1mm tube or 5mm tube as long as there is no demand for fuel. If that makes sense, anyway i love all your videos extremely educational and keep up the good work.
Idle air control valve or IAC. When you blocked off the air did you block off the small hole that should allow air in with the throttle plate closed? If I follow correctly you had WOT or wide open throttle when you got 120psi . . . did you WOT as well when it was blocked? I'm trying to be less wordy about what I'm asking, but it seems like the variables on this test are WOT or throttle plate closed, blocked and unblocked, and if blocked and unlocked had any affect on the small hole meant to allow air for idling. To be even simpler, what drove all these questions if through an of this an IAC problem could be discovered. (and if you were on an OBD II car would the computer help point that out if it was bad enough?) LOL, I shouldn't have bothered in not being wordy. Thanks for the video!
I went to a local school and talked to the it guy and said I wanted to fix computers but I wanted to find the exact diode i.c. cap transistors.. he said I was a technical dinasaur. well anyways .. I would think that wires would cause a rough idle. KISS..that's my philosophy.. and that's not a romantic word.. keep it simple stupid.. it's a little harsh..I don't like to replace more than I have too. great video.
Good video with lots of excellent details. Have you ever ran into a triton V10 that idles smooth but no power under load due to one entire bank not firing? Unable to identify problem so far.
See it a lot. What data do you have? What is the LTFT and STFT curve vs load? What is the MAF frequency static vs load? What is the MAP voltage in relation to calculated load? Need something to go on.
Verified fuel with pressure, noid lights, and smell of unburned fuel. Idles very smooth. Changed out COP's since a few were bad. Using GTC505 engine Analyzer it shows nothing on passenger bank all cylinders but I can see that the screen is moving very fast on that #1 only, normal curve on all drivers side bank. Checked continuity from each wire to COP good. Checked trigger signal wire and found no grounds. Verified cam sensor signal ok. unplugged and it would not start indicating it;s not the problem. Swapped radio noise capacitors right and left with no change. Checked for Key on voltage at COPs. Plan next to check COP voltage using a spark tester and back probe under load. Finally, will run jumper from PCM to COP. Want to make sure I have checked everything before replacing PCM since the engine does start and idle smooth and have no other malfunctions. Do have error codes for cylinders 2-5 Pri/Sec Winding. #1 does not show the code. I appreciate any new ideas.
Dave Mitchell Well what data do you have at all? What ignition voltage tests have you done, what cylinder compression tests, fuel stoichiometry, anything? I have nothing to go on here.
Checking fuel systems problems always have a fire extinguisher within reach ! An inexpensive but reliable tester is a Magnetic Field Detector . This will pick up ignition coil and electronic fuel pulses . 6/10/23
Just re-watching some of these, and one thing I don't think you mentioned in the air section is exhaust. If you have a near completely restricted exhaust, it can cause a no-start issue. I belive Paul Danner has a case study on this from a faulty exhaust manifold that was almost completely blocked.
I do believe I mentioned that a sign of exhaust restriction is the car starts but then stumbles and dies after a few seconds when the backpressure builds. If I failed to mention that, you are correct it is a consideration. I believe I mention it in the second video on this series.
You got me addicted. Do you have any book's or video's I can purchase? Took me a long time on the web to find someone that really knows his stuff. ( Your the best ) I've found.
Your best bet would be my paid website which has even better videos and very basic explanations of electrical and computer controlled diagnostics. It is launching in a couple weeks. Subscribe to this channel and you'll be informed when it launches.
my car starts good with cooler engine. but only after I turn switch off it is very hard to restart. pontiac grand prix 2002. 3.1. anything about a no start hot engine. Hayes manual only says 3 causes.1 corroded battery terminals especcially ground.#2 dirty or blocked air filter#3 fuel not reaching injection system. any suggestions please Hayes repair manual is not so helpful. imo.
you are correct. the principles are 100% the same indeed. in fact they are the same for a lawn mower that won’t start!! the components and technologies and wiring may be different but the principles are 100% identical.
I've made a point of learning this method for no-starts. Like the guy says - if you don't find the cause after working through these steps, you either did it wrong... or you're just not wired right. lol
Hi Matt, I have a 2017 Camry 2.5 le. This is the second time it happened. Cranks hard but no start. Replaced battery first time (was old anyway). Happened again, left key in on position for a min then turned off and on and started. Tried few times later and works. I used a duplicate key till now, can the key be an issue, has delayed responses. No start happened only twice in past month. Appreciate the details shared.
The first thing I would do is see if you have fuel and spark when it cranks and doesn't start and go from there. It cannot be a battery problem if it cranks.
Matt, amazing lectures, I was looking exactly for this theoretical knowledge. Thank you very much. Please answer if you can, which inexpensive scan tool I should get, ebay is full of all kind handheld devices, but I don't know if they will scan for fuel trim and other things. And please if you can guide me in the right direction, my accord 08 4cylinder starts with high ideal RPM (2000) and keeps it for long time. Only after few min driving it drops. Plus some kind of slight whistle sound when I press gas pedal. Dealer didn't find anything wrong. Now I'm learning myself from your videos to resolve this issue. Thank you again. Oleg
my friend i have a fule presser gauge which self made by me, when i found low fule presser problem directly put gauge on output of fule pump, in indian cars there is no strater valve in fuel line.
i don't have the money for a $3,000 scan tool so the more videos that will teach me how to do such as a "good spark-good fuel no start"video using nothing but hand tools would be awesome . yes I am a smuk or otherwise known as a shade tree mechanic but I am pretty good with a carburetor but a throttle body is something I am just learning . I would love your assistance . you are not the only one I watch but I am one that watch's beginning to end , learns and I do not bitch
New Metallica isn't as good as the older stuff, but I caught the reference to the song from Reload. Fight Fire With Fire is more my thing. FASTTEC does sound very wise, Air is seldom the issue, agreed.
my Pontiac Grand Prix is recently hard to start when engine is warm+ hot+ driven for awhile. runs great and starts good in morning or when car is cooler. but I get zero codes.3.1 century engine.
hello, you were very detailed showing how to test the injectors but didn't mention what to do if it is the injectors. i have a 2008 crown vic. pump is good and filter is new and I'm getting spark but it doesn't seem that my injectors are firing. all the fuses and all relays tested good, i've checked them 4 times threw out the last couple days . i have a new fuel pump. injectors don't seem to be firing with a noid light. what sensors would cause injectors not to fire'? also the car did start when i shot some starter fluid in the throttle. car was running good and killed in the rain immediately after i hit a descent pothole. i did not bottom out. also the day before i was checking the battery and put a load test on it with the car running on accident. i don't know if that affected anything. it was just a spit second not the whole 10 seconds
also i don't have a schrader valve to do a fuel test to check the fuel pressure but it seems as if the pressure is strong not fully positive but i did the open fuel line with the key on test and it spit out about a cup of gas in 1 second. again i think it is something telling the injectors not to fire but i don't know what to change out
Can't handle a little grease? Funny thing about "just buying plugs and wires". Working on a newer 3800,crank,but no start. I pull a plug wire to check for spark,and the boot falls apart in my hand. Well,it obviously needs new wires,might as well do plugs while I'm at it,since it probably needs those too. Everything else checked out. Yep,that fixed it. Dunno how or why. The odd part is,you'd think it would at least start,and sputter on 4-5 cylinders,but it wouldn't even do that. The old plugs/wires didn't even look that bad (aside from the one with the boot pulled off.). Lucky day,I guess.
Yeah thats weird, I would have easily expected it to still at least start but run like crap. I wonder if, due to the waste spark design- it was actually just firing on 4 cylinders because all the spark from the coil was grounding out through the bad wire. Even then I would expect it to at least sputter. You never know what's going to happen I guess!
Air test... Monitor map sensor, koec, then open full throttle (while still cranking) & watch for map sensor data change? (From closed to full throttle)
Very educational video. I have a 2003 VW TDI crank no start obviously steps are the same ? I'm getting fuel to my injectors but I don't know if its enough to start because I have a engine code P0225 indicating quanity adjust to injection pump. It prolly basic science but any ideas I'd appreciate it ?
I have situation like in Your movie. My car does not start. It cranks. I checked fuel, injector is spraying fuel. It is single injection engine. I can see the fuel laying in the intake manifold. I checked the spark and they are sparking. I can't hear any sounds that would be a sign of a vacuum leak. I will try check for leak with smoke. What can you suggest more? I don't have copmression tester.
You are a M.D in car repair! I have a 2004 jeep charakee with a 4.0 straight 6. It starts when its cold and stays running just fine but when I turn it off it won't start until it cools down. Could you tell me the diagnosis Dr.Schroeder? Please
I have a 1997 Chevy tahao took fuel tank for rusted pressure lines also while it was out replaced fuel pump Put it back together started and ran for about a minute and cut off and I have no spark Not sure about spider injectors if they could be vapor locked Any ideas would be great
2001 toyota camry I drive it all day with out the AC running !!!!! Then when I use the AC it will not turn over or it will turn over but will not start . But if I wait for about 30 too 45 minutes it starts. (1) What does the AC have to do with motor maybe over heating ? (2) the temp gage on the dash shows it is not hot, over heated. Help please usefull comments
Highly unlikely it's the ECU, or compression, or timing. Those are rare. It's likely, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or hall effect sensors, maybe wiring.
Lots of times, I will dump about 4 teaspoons of gasoline into the air cleaner housing. Typically you get 5-10 seconds worth of run out of that. Good roadside diagnostic as well.
Randall Dalton Absolutely. I usually spray carb cleaner, propane, anything flammable. If the engine runs even for a second Fuel goes right to the bottom of the suspect list.
I have to warn strongly against manually firing a fuel injector into a cylinder. Since the engine is not actually running, the fuel isn't being burned. Even if the fuel sits in the cylinder for a short amount of time, most if not all will quickly drain past the piston rings ( regardless of how new the engine maybe or how tight tolerances are ). The raw fuel will quickly collect into the crankcase with engine oil and can easily destroy the engine!!! This is a friendly warning ☺ But as Matt says... ALWAYS DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM!!! DON'T JUST RUN OUT AND START REPLACING PARTS!!! In my 15+ years as a master automotive technician, I've literally witnessed people squandering hundreds of thousands of dollars in parts just because Jim-Bob's brother had the same problem with an EGR valve!!! And the kids that work at AutoZone work in field of retail! Not automotive!!!
Correction on your first statement- The first part is not a concern because such a small amount is being injected when done for diagnostics., It is indeed a valid test. The concern is not that the fuel will contaminate the oil and destroy the engine- that is not going to happen. The concern is if you somehow did run the injector long enough to cause any such volume your concern is HYDROLOCKING the engine because the fuel in the cylinder can't be compressed and that could very well damage the engine. But again with less that a couple milliliters of fuel being used in this application there is no concern for either- but especially 2ml of fuel contaminating 5L of oil and destroying an engine. Not possible.
hi mat, what do you think of this.... i you suspect a vacuum leak and you can't detected via smoke or propane, theres a possibility that the pcv valve is stuck in the open position and would definitely suck a lot of vacuum creating a leak at idle and could not be able to find it via those methods, because the vacuum doesn't come from outside but from the engine block. sorry if i'm being kind of inocent but i'm just learning from your videos, and makes me think a lot of possible variables, i'm from argentina, hello to everybody
@@SchrodingersBox i think i have something to contribute to the fasttec method, in spark diagnosis i definetely add something more, depending of the type of car the alarm system can cut electricity to shut down the ignition, it has happened to me with my car, the alarm was activated and could'nt start the car and no sound or lights was warning me this, in fact i sold the car and the buyer call me for this problem and i explains this, she desactivated the alarm and start right away
Thanks for this video. A question. If my ignition switch went bad, it failed while driving and tried starting a lot while in traffic till finally got it stated just enough to clear traffic then nothing else from it. Since then I replaced ignition switch and crankshaft sensor but car won’t start, was told computer needs reprogramming, did that still no start, there is no spark so we thought it was the anti theft preventing but now the anti theft indicator gone. Car still won’t start. I am lost. Can you point me in a direction to go? The car is a GMC Acadia 2007 made in Canada
I am not following- you changed the ignition switch AND the CKPS? That doesn’t add up to me- what data indicates both of them were bad? I can’t see how that would be possible.
@@SchrodingersBox sorry about that not being clear. I changed the ignition switch because after car stalling and quitting there was an error code show faulty ignition switch hence the replacement. After replacing switch the car would not start and was not producing a spark so my friend who was working on car with me went ahead and replaced CKPS but there is still no spark from coils. I hope that is clear.
What code was for the ignition switch? There is no code for an ignition switch. It had to be for something else that was probably the clue. I still don’t see the reason on changing the CKPS though- was the code for CKPS rather than ignition switch?
@@SchrodingersBox I don’t remember the code but base on the code we got and research the switch was what documentation recommended. However we also discovered that the 2 coil fuse blew and a connection leading from the ECM, haven’t found what it connects to, was loose because of broken clip. Will be replacing the connector but I am wondering if there is anything else that would cause the blown fuse and the ignition failure? Ps. I don’t think the CKPS was bad my friend just jumped ahead to replace the part.
Matt, I have never asked for too much from you but I need advice today. I have an 05 Ford Freestyle and it won't start. I replaced the alternator because it stopped charging. I got a reman which stopped working 5 miles after installation due to a mistake I made which cause PS fluid to leak into alternator. I drove the car home and on the way the gauges and lights all shut down because battery got below 8 volts. I hooked the car up to a jump starter so that I could start the car to move it to another spot and I can't get it to start! I may be wrong here but I thought the car should still boost even with a bad alternator. Shouldn't a fully charged good battery make it start? Also, as crazy as this sounds, I have to batteries and it was starting with one but cranking no start with the other battery. now neither battery will start it. Thank you in advance for any reply you take the time to share..
+Schrodingers Box the alternator is bad. battery is reading about 12.5 key on engine off. don't have a reading of cranking volts. don't have fuel pressure reading due to no Schrader valve. It has pressure though. could the plugs be gas fouled from driving the car until the battery completely died. wouldn't the spark quit before the injectors? I'm going to check the inertia switch as well because I have read online from multiple sources that 05 freestyle is notorious for the inertia switch going bad with no warning. It has never had a problem starting before alternator quit. shouldn't it still boost with a bad alternator on it?
The battery started dying repeatedly.. Then one day I boosted it and as soon as I disconnected cables the car died.. Alternator tested bad at alternator & starter shop. New laternator orked temporarily until PS fluid leaked in because I forgot to put hose clamp on PS res. Thank you for answering me.
Question related to vid: how do I know if my car is 12 v. elec. or mechanical fuel pump?? Aren't some fuel pumps inside the tank while others r outside?
It's a 93 Volkswagen Cabriolet when I said I was getting juice to the coil and to the distributor meaning Electric but I'm not getting Sparks at the plug wires also I took the car to the islands not much modern instrument to work with sorry thanks
It makes no sense. How were you not getting juice to the distributer, then you change it, and now you have juice to the distributer? It defies logic. Please do the basic tests shown to verify the inputs to the coil and outputs from PCM. That is the next step. Otherwise I am unable to help.
Hey Matt. just got a question for you. I have a 2010 kia forte with 150k km on it that exhibits an intermittent crank no start. I notice it more in the summer than the winter. I have replaced ignition coils, spark plugs, cam sensor. The crank speed is fast and normal, which tells me most likely the battery is not the culprit or the starter. Checked fuses and relays, all good. I have noticed that pushing the gas pedal will get it to start whenever it cranks. Do you know what it could be? Fuel related most likely? This issue is really hard as it is intermittent and cannot be reproduces on demand, even when it does crank and I hook up devices to being testing, it usually starts on the 2nd or 3rd try making it hard to perform FASTECC when you cant even check off F on the list as it starts randomly.
i would need to see the data you got that indicated this was an ignition problem. i don’t see how it could be but everything you did was ignition related so what data was showing that?
@@SchrodingersBox there was no indication it was ignition. We were basically just ticking boxes. We couldn't perform fastecc as the car randomly starts and randomly doesn't. When you can't reproduce symptoms, everything checks back as normal as the car starts. So we had to just check boxes off, the manual recommend for hard starting to suspect coils, plugs, cam/crank sensors, and of course mechanics told me there was no point in bringing the car as if the symptom won't reproduce itself we can't tell what the issue is. Based on what you hear, what do you think it could be? Does the pedal helping the car start when it rarely does crank lead to anything?
I've run into craziest situations yet on Nissan Sentra 2002 Gxe. No crank. No run. Died while driving. Hooked to Autel ran codes etc etc starts and runs with OBDII plugged in. Will not turn over with OBDII removed. All fuseses are good. Help help help.
never heard of that in my life. 2 things come to mind. First is possible short in the ALDL - I’d especially check if there is power- all of them should have power at pin 16. Second possibility is CAN network issue that somehow the scantool is creating an interface maybe? I only know how to check it with a scope but I would check network signal with and without the Autel plugged in. Really odd.
I checked for spark, that was good , no fouled plugs, not wet either , so next I need to find out if gas is getting in there, I have no schrader valve on my car,
After changing throttle body, I thought it was still crank no start , due to computer having a fault code so I disconnected the battery for a while, MISTAKE! So now it has no fault codes because the suv won't start and go down the road!!!
Thanks for the super informative video. I'm trying to get smarter with my diagnostics, but it's harder because cars just keep getting more complex. I'm curious if it's useful to use starter fluid in the diagnostic sequence. If I squirt some starter fluid in the intake and it starts to detonate briefly like it's going to start up,but then just keeps cranking once the ether is used up, that means I can cross off spark, air, exhaust, compression, and possibly timing, right?
If you add starter fluid and the car does not run you can cross it being a fuel problem specifically off the list. Either it is a fuel problem AND something else, or it is something else.
When I added starter fluid, it started to run. Or at least, it was detonating for a second or two, but then it just immediately went back to the crank-no-start condition. Wouldn't that suggest that that it probably is a fuel problem?
@@rockwellmath you’re right but you’re complicating it a bit, I’ve done the same before lol the use of the starter fluid is to replace the vehicles method of delivery regarding one of the main ingredients to the recipe for the successful start of an engine. So IF the vehicle starts and DOESNT RUN, that means the problem is either spark related or complete air constriction of airflow for the engine to fire. It’s like sparking a lighter. If the spark isn’t strong enough, the presence of air and delivery of fuel won’t cause an ignition. And same with the fuel delivery. Cuz ignition just needs the presence of all three ingredients(fuel,air,spark) at the same time the spark is delivered. So if ignition doesn’t happen, one of the elements missed the ‘party’, ya digg? Lol
In my case the truck was hesitating on acceleration. Then after only 5 miles with this hesitation, it failed to start. No noise coming from the pump. Disconnected the fuel line under the truck. No fuel flow. Reconnected. Went through the bed to get at the pump. Way too much rust. Replaced pump. Tried to start it. Still no start. Went forward to replace the fuel filter. Completely clogged. Found out what caused the pump to fail.
I replaced the gas tank fuel hanger and pump a month ago. It lasted about a month. Now it refuses to start. I can hear the pump run but it won't start. my 89 s10 did this before. The previous owner had installed the same items. So there has to be a issue causing this to happen. do you know anyone that can reflash the cal pack to start when the key is turned on. I thought of just running 12 volts wire to the fuel pump and be done with it. do the 89 s10 pickups zero out the pulse width modulation with no start issues?
how do I give the ecm an error and tell it RUN RIGHT NOW!! How do you deal with this. The poorly designed crap? Everything in your way. The people that design this crap should be made to work on it when they retire for 15 year. Then maybe they will understand!
My 4 runner will crank but not start first thing in the morning.However starts if started in the afternoon after standing in the sun. What cld be the problem
Anything could be the problem. What data do you have? have you measured the long term fuel trim curved against load while it''s running to get a initial idea?
@@SchrodingersBox Ha Ha, many thanks for your reply----Pity I didn't see your videos earlier but anyway enough spare parts here initially diagnosed as faulty to keep my BMW e30 going for another 20 years.
One of the most under watched and under rated youtubers
Thanks for this series. I’m having a crank no start after doing a head gasket and I’m taking good notes to be able to rule things out fully one by one. I love how you follow through with testing things that are unlikely to be the issue.
Any luck
Have you found your problem
@@TTV_TOXIC_MAD_YT I’m definitely having a fuel pressure drop, honestly it’s been taking months bc I procrastinate and basically let it sit. Parents gave it to me for my bday one year and it was sitting then, I haven’t gotten it registered yet. The other day I was gonna do a final test to see if the pressure drop was the delivery (so something before the fuel rail) but the battery was dead
P
You are a true inspiration Matt. There isnt a single technician where i live that can actually properly troubleshoot like you.
I have a Hummer H2 that has intermittent starting issues and can not figure it out.....i have done all kinds of tests and trails on it, but here is wgat i feel sums it up real fast.
1. Jumper cables run from battery down to starter main stud and starter housing, not fixing it.....eliminated the main positive and ground cables to starter....
2. Jumper cables as extra ground from starter housing to block, starter housing to frame, starter housing to negative battery terminal......not working....further eliminates any grounding issue....
3. Jumper cables from our other truck (2007 Yukon) to the Hummers battery.....not making a difference eliminates the Hummers battery. (And it tested good under load test at O'Reilly's).....
4. Using a small 18 gauge jumper wire from the "S Stud" to the "Main hot stud" on the starter not starting it....... eliminates ALL ignition side..... correct? (Eliminates ignition switch, neutral safety switch, AND things like the PCM, body modules, relays, ect correct?)
All this started after having transmission rebuilt......so we tried to eliminate theory that the Bendix might be binding on flywheel and not fully extending.....by adding a "shim".....which didnt fix it either.
Is there anything else i could have possibly missed as a possibility besides the starter itself??? (Skeptical its the starter because put 2 brand new GM starters in within a year and both had this intermittent starting problem)
Please help me, im going crazy!
Sure wish our truck could be one of your case studies. :)
Thanks for the compliments. On an intermittent like that I would probably change the strategy up. It seems you are trying to create conditions to always get it to start but because it’s intermittent this isn’t the best approach. What you want to do is try to create conditions that catch it when it fails.
I would begin by first trying to determine if this is a load side or control side issue. Measuring the voltage drop on the control side would show when the issue happens if it’s being caused on control side or load side and then you can narrow in accordingly. If, say, you determine it’s on load side, set up a voltage drop measurement to the starter solenoid and get issue to occur again. When it occurs again you will know if it’s a voltage drop issue or a component issue.
You need to catch the issue happening and have monitors to make determinations of what failed, as opposed to trying to make it never happen because even if you never make it happen, you won’t know the specific location of the issue.
@@SchrodingersBox catching it happening isn't a problem now, as it's now so bad it almost never starts. (It went from starting 19 out of 20 times a year ago, to starting 1 out of 20 times currently) over the life of 2 brand new GM starters. (If the new starter is bad, there has to be something prematurely shortening their lifespan)
I wish I was much smarter on this than I am, but I started with measuring volts on everything possible including trying voltage drop tests from your videos.
When I would measure for voltage drop at the starter (main always hot stud and the starter housing) it would only drop around .6 volts (less than 1 volt) BUT....that is when it didn't start. Never got a reading of how much it dropped when it started though. (Is Measuring the voltage drop when it doesn't start......what we need, or do we need the voltage drop when it does start?). At first I thought we need the drop when it doesn't start but then others acted like it's such a small drop, that's not the actual draw of the starter and I need the drop when it does start. (Since then I haven't been able to get it to start to see the drop when it does start)
I did all kinds of tests trying to narrow it down like that.....but then with help on a Hummer forum, they had me try the jumper cables tests. I hate to even ask this....but are you sure you read the jumper cables tests above correctly? Because I wasn't trying to get it to not start ....but trying to get it to start.....with those jumper cables tests. And none of them helped it start properly.
As far as I understand, the one test eliminates the battery for sure, one eliminates the cables going to starter for sure, another eliminates bad grounds, and the other eliminates ALL things on ignition side.
Feel very stupid for asking this question but is the "load side" the main hot wire going to starter from battery? Is the "control side" what I call the "ignition side"? (Relay, ignition switch, neutral safety switch, PCM, ect?)
One of my absolute favourite videos of yours Matt. I always find your videos interesting, entertaining and very informative, but for me personally this little series is at the top of the tree.
Thanks bro- I employ this method on EVERY no start or misfire. Logic indicates it ALWAYS will work !
I always loved spaghetti, but why so many car truck problems throughout life? Love the common sense concepts money and time saving ideas. This doesn't make sense that one problem to another keeps happening for me but for a conspiracy. One night squirrel attack took out four by eating wiring. Why not any of my neighbors. Along that line can I train them for revenge? Sorry for the wrong question and attitude. Still could be possibly politically useful.
Wired right 😅😅 pun intended
The best diagnostic strategy I have ever seen for a cranking no start. Science works! Thanks for sharing Matt!
Science totally works!! If it doesn’t, you did it wrong lol.
Thanks Matt, your videos are awsome, I fix cars because of you, I don't live near Colorado, Fast tec, this method works so good on no start, my Ecm was the problem, no crank therefore no start, tested pins 6 and 14 at the obd reader connection under the dash, 123 ohms should be 60 ohms to be no computers blown, eventually after disconnecting the Bcm, Pcm, and Igm, no change in ohms, found the Ecm disconnected was the problem, ohms reading on the digital volt meter went to zero, thanks Matt.
Damn dude, I need to find a mechanic like you. I do most things DIY, but diagnosis requires a holistic understanding of all systems, and there's an acute lack of actual engineers and scientifically minded people to diagnose my car in my area. I had a mechanic guess that my lack of power / no start was a clogged catalytic converter, but he didn't even test it, didn't even take out o2 sensors or disconnect the cat and try to start it, just "yeah thats probably it. Get that changed and we can go from there."
I see it all the time man. Every weekend in fact. You summed up the mentality perfectly- on both sides in fact!
Thanks for the video. Diagnosed a bad battery (with a no crank situation) after watching this series.
This series of video's is gold! Understanding the systems involved is vital for correct diagnosis and the method presented is a valuable tool - this information is exactly what I need. Thanks!
+WMDeception Thanks man- you are correct and make a great point about "systems". That is exactly how I look at any diagnostic I do- I see things as Systems, not individual components. I'll have to mention that in a future video in fact- very well said man!!!
Dang Swami.... Excellent instruction..
"I'm not Worthy".
Next, I hope you have a video on: no control to the injectors, because thanks to you, I found out that's my issue! Plenty of fuel and pressure, no electricity to the injectors....
You da Man!!
Why have I not heard about this guy before? I've seen a few of his videos recently - he's really good! I've already learnt a great deal. Subscribed.
Had three cars in the late 90s with a 3800 good engine had 250 to 300 thousand miles on each coil packs spark plug wires modulator under the coil pack looking forward to your next video see what's wrong with the old girl brings back a lot of memories thanks for the videos
Dude, your commentary is pure gold. I'm buying a t-shirt and making a donation to you. So much appreciate what you are doing!
Love the comment about stupid performance upgrades like removing the MAF screen. I think that guy removed his EGR circuit as well.
Much appreciated!
Dude, you are awesome! Reasons are:
1. "Settle down Honda boys" i drive a honda, i love it, but i hate ricers.
2. You used serendipitous PROPERLY
3. You are ENCOURAGING do it yourself on cars... thank you.
Faith in humanity: RESTORED
hahaha great comment- made my week!!
Matt I really like your way of doing your Diagnostic tests with simple tools that the DiY guy will likely to have
Oh for the days when it was coil and distributor and no computers.
This is a great basic troubleshooting approach generalized for any car. He also makes a good case for knowing the minutia behind troubleshooting, like knowing how DVMs measure average voltage. I will add that on fairly modern cars (e.g. a 2008 Nissan Versa) a lot of these steps are pretty time consuming because basic things that were once readily available are now obscured and difficult to access (like spark plugs, fuel connections, etc.).
Great video, Matt. I wish more of the docs I work with shared your algorithmic sensibility. Would save loads in unwarranted and costly tests in the hospital. You'd make a killer physician with the way you chip away at a diagnosis.
U don't like getting dirty because u are a princess..lol I love your videos..u r teaching me alot I been working on my truck LS1 5.3 with crank an no start.an again u are helping me..thank you
I can't believe it's been 8yrs.... thanks again
Wonderful concept of delivering VALUE to viewers and Subscribers... Deliver basic and foundational information that people can TRULY use...!
Do you have your website membership site available or is it still down...?
I am a subscriber since a few days ago and I am CONFIDENT you are a true TECHNICiAN. I am so enthused to be learning from a pro such as yourself. I will be purchasing your paid subscription service as I believe it is worth every penny. (money is tight and can't justify it with the girlfriend after purchasing so much the last three weeks in tools alone.) I just want to say thanks for helping me out so much. looking forward to watching all your videos Matt.
Thanks man. Look forward to seeing you on both channels!
Returning to this after watching a year ago it's all adding up finally how solid this method is 😎
Yes is often helps to revisited videos again after you have more experience, for sure!!
hello Matt watched all three fasttec videos and feel they should be called fantastic. you do a great job explaining things so us do it yourselfers can understand.. your the best . I enjoyed the videos even though I ended up not needing them since I added a bottle of HEET to my gas tank while watching them . went out next morning and the old ford ranger started right up. Beautiful Wisconsin whether don't you know. Thanks anyway for the great info . Jimmer Crouch.
Thanks. curious- what was the diagnostic you performed to gather data thaty indicated HEET was necessary to remedy the issue? Most people just randomly guess like idiots when they use that product.
correct it was a guess .but since we had a very warm week prior to this problem condensation in fuel line seemed like a good guess . a common problem up here in the north woods.
oh' and I might add I was in the heating business for years and spent many hours thawing out fuel oil lines.
Hi Matt,I would like to add one simple issue to "crank no start "list ,I have accidently damaged an old brittle plastic top of my coolant temp.sensor , so my 2001 toyota camry 2.2l wont start.it will cause same result if a wiring to that sensor is damaged .I have found that is a kind of protection to the engine . I do believe that modern cars have a few more protection sensors in the system.so please consider to check the wiring connection to them other way ...crank no start ...will continue .
I'm very grateful to you for sharing your knowledge with other needy people .the way you presented the issue is very encouraging to me so I'm going to learn more about that from you ,thank you very much !
Krzysztof
Excellent work, this helped me quickly and accurately troubleshoot my no start condition. Your videos are helpful and just what advanced diy need. Thanks!!
Could you have tested the fuel injectors by priming the fuel pump with the gauge attached, then disconnecting the fuel pump relay and cranking the engine once, while watching the needle?
Never thought of that! Good idea indeed! That would definitely indicate fuel injector activity!
Paul MvN I would like to see an example of that method if possible . Thanks for everything
Hello so do u no if the Honda 1990 Accord. Has a safety feature that. When.say llke temp sensor. Goes. Bad. It shuts down the. Fuel for a no start
I think you just told me what the problem is with my Chevy van. Amazing!
Techanically, yes I did. I mentioned what the problem is for EVERY car that has a no start
Matt, thanks for including the test in which you left the fuel rail pressurized and manually fired the injector. The test clearly excluded another possibility -- that an injector with fuel pressure and pulse from the ECU is not delivering fuel because it is clogged.
I have only ever tested individual fuel injectors when their removal was a step in a broader maintenance task. I never performed the test you did, because I doubted that a suitably brief pulse of an injector would generate a conclusive change in fuel pressure. Your test clearly shows that the test is informative and has a benefit that can be weighed against the risk of shorting out the ECU during testing.
As a bit of an aside, I was surprised when you got your hand greasy that you didn't wipe it off on a Haynes manual. It just goes to show that you should always wear Mechanix brand gloves when working on a car...
Lol thanks, I actually prefer to use the pages of the Haynes manual to wipe other parts of my body lol
I can. He's correct. He's attempting to instruct non-pros to diagnose these issues.
Matt, have you ever considered getting an oscilloscope? A great test for injectors is back probe the control side of the injector, and you would be able to see the current ramp, along with the "pintle hump", so you can actually verify the injector is mechanically opening based on that small change in voltage.
Yes James, I would love to get a scope- I would totally dig experimenting with one but the problem is I just don't see investing the money in one since I really don't work on a large enough volume of cars to justify the expense.
Schrodingers Box I an in the same boat as you. You can actually get into a one channel hobby scope for under a hundred bucks. I have one, and one you install the updated firmware, it is actually not to bad. Not a pro scope, but can capture waveforms.
Well hell- I didn't know I can get one for $100! I just spent $50 on a bore gauge that I'll never use just for my engine rebuild video lol!! What brand is this that you are referring to?
The DSO Nano v3 is what I have. Its a bit more difficult, but you will also want to upgrade it to the benf firmware. If you Google around, you can find a version that should work on V3. Or you can always get v2. They are bassicaly identical. You can find them on eBay/Amazon. They are no where near accurate enough to use in lab work, but are good enough to play around with in automotive. You can also plug in any probe made for any scope once you get some adapters. So you can look at secondary ignition, or get some back probing probes. You can see eBay for all the adapters. Pretty neat tool though for the money.
29:33 when you tossed the marker after that fuel and fire bit, that was the equivalent of a mic drop XD XD
Hey again, Matt! This series, so far, is awesome! Looks like there are two more videos to watch tonight, too! :-D
I wanted to be a nitpicky little jerk again... You'd mentioned in this video that voltmeters measure average voltage, and that you could expect to see 6VDC appear on the meter. I believe that in most cases, this is incorrect. DVOMs actually take samples at a predetermined interval, much like a Graphing Multimeter or an Oscilloscope. However, those samples are at a much, much slower rate than the latter two mentioned tools. Some DVOMs have an Average feature, which will typically be a separate setting, but I've only seen this on higher-end devices (Fluke 88 and the like). Every meter I've seen to have this setting, however, also has a setting to measure duty cycle and/or pulse width; a much more useful feature for poking at fuel injectors. :-)
Yes you are correct- One of my DVOM's does indeed show 6V on an injector while the one I used in the video normally would jump all over the place but it happened to fix at 10.5V in the video.
Anyway the whole point is to alert people unfamiliar with using a DVOM on a "cycled" voltage that they may not see 12V and thus not to falsely suspect a failure when there isn't one.
Matt thanks for your videos as you definitely speak my language: articulate, rational and efficient. I’m currently having issues with a Ford Focus 2004. The garage has replaced the fuel pump but the engine cut out and crank no start got me again. I’ll go through the basic diag checks, ignition then fuel Being that the fuel pump was replaced I’m thinking I have a relay or timing sensor issue and doubtful the inertia switch is giving me probs by I’ll check that first. Thanks and God bless you Sir you are a gift to us ✌🏼
Good luck with it. just think FASTTEC and you will find it. Man I can even count how many times I received a car with a new fuel pump that didn’t need it. usually it was a voltage drop or wiring problem, not the fuel pump. This of course assumes it’s a fuel problem to begin with.
@@SchrodingersBox Fasttec? I heard you mention that on the video.
A cheap and easy way to simultaneously check all fuel injectors for pulse is to take a Light Emitting Diode "LED" (one for each injector) and solder a 680 ohm resistor to one leg of the LED so that the resistor is even in length with the other leg of the LED, then shove a LED into each (disconnected) fuel injector plug. Observe the polarity of the LED, +12V side of injector goes to plus (anode) side of LED. Then crank away. The LEDs will flash with each pulse.
Luv It " No ty , there's plenty of tools around this vechicle" LOL
I stumbled on your channel trying to troubleshoot my 88 F2 50 with a 5.0 L. Absolutely love your teaching techniques and the fact that you go into the understanding of why you're doing what you're doing. One thing I didn't see you touch on with fuel is having pressure at the rail during KOEO prime or cranking but losing pressure after the key is turned off. I have pressure at the Schrader valve during prime but when I turn the key off I lose pressure. I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator but the same problem persists. Dual tanks and it does it with both tanks so I am assuming the check valves are good
See my video on fuel pressure diagnostics.
Thank you very much sir and once again love your videos. Keep up the awesome work
Schrodingers Box I
I've learned a lot from your videos, thanks. I had one problem with my car that your FASTTEC method didn't quite exactly solve. The problem was that I had 'A' spark, but it was insufficient for the car to start or run. I think there needs to be a test to not only determine if a spark is present, but if it is enough to make your car run. Since I'm not a professional, I don't know if this is a common problem or not. I spent a fair bit of time trying to find the problem, and eventually found that my ignition coil was bad. I think it was partially shorting out the side of the coil (as there was visible discoloration to the plastic enclosure). I was just using a steel rod in the spark plug wire to test for a spark to ground, and it did spark. Fortunately, I didn't swap out a ton of parts, I continued to test until I was fairly sure I'd found the problem.
If you have insufficient spark then FASTTEC would cover that since spark is the first thing. Checking spark doesn’t mean checking presence of spark. It means checking spark as a reason for failed combustion. Remember FASTTEC is checking reasons for lack of combustion caused by each variable.
I think your theory on fuel pressure and a restriction somewhere between the pump and injectors is a little off (please correct me if I'm wrong). If there was a restriction in the line somewhere I believe you would still be able to build full pressure with the ignition in the on position and perhaps even at idle however when under load you could then experience a pressure drop due to the inability to supply enough fuel through the restriction. 50 psi is still 50 psi whether it's going through a 1mm tube or 5mm tube as long as there is no demand for fuel. If that makes sense, anyway i love all your videos extremely educational and keep up the good work.
Tim Vine I see what you're saying and it makes sense
It will also make your fuel pressure regulator add insult to injury, as it will operate in an undetermined pressure.
the noid light also tells you that your crank sensor is operating. if you have no injector pulse then it's possible that your crank sensor is also bad
andrew donohue if the crank sensor is bad you will loose both injector pulse AND spark
Thank you for showing me the video , I now know it was my fuel pump on my 2003 Focus , !!
Idle air control valve or IAC. When you blocked off the air did you block off the small hole that should allow air in with the throttle plate closed?
If I follow correctly you had WOT or wide open throttle when you got 120psi . . . did you WOT as well when it was blocked?
I'm trying to be less wordy about what I'm asking, but it seems like the variables on this test are WOT or throttle plate closed, blocked and unblocked, and if blocked and unlocked had any affect on the small hole meant to allow air for idling.
To be even simpler, what drove all these questions if through an of this an IAC problem could be discovered. (and if you were on an OBD II car would the computer help point that out if it was bad enough?)
LOL, I shouldn't have bothered in not being wordy. Thanks for the video!
"There's plenty of tools around this car..."
With that you got from me a legitimate LOL.
Great video Matt !
I can. He's correct. He's attempting to instruct non-pros to diagnose these issues. Watch and learn.
Great video thanks I learn something new every day
You have a very lovely F-body screen saver. I had an 84 :)
Matt, yur a genius at mechanics!
I went to a local school and talked to the it guy and said I wanted to fix computers but I wanted to find the exact diode i.c. cap transistors.. he said I was a technical dinasaur. well anyways .. I would think that wires would cause a rough idle. KISS..that's my philosophy.. and that's not a romantic word.. keep it simple stupid.. it's a little harsh..I don't like to replace more than I have too. great video.
Thank you for your time and your help kind sir. God bless.
Fuel and fire, is that which I desire. (Seinfeld: "That's gold, Jerry, gold!")
Hi greetings from Britain,great videos,just a thought,another safer way of checking injectors using a multimeter would be on the hertz scale,on crank.
dodayli Indeed that would work!
I have shared this with many. .
Very cool video...
Great learning info...
Awesome, thank you!
Parts Changer: It needed the part anyway!
Matt: I was curious anyway!
Good video with lots of excellent details. Have you ever ran into a triton V10 that idles smooth but no power under load due to one entire bank not firing? Unable to identify problem so far.
See it a lot. What data do you have? What is the LTFT and STFT curve vs load? What is the MAF frequency static vs load? What is the MAP voltage in relation to calculated load?
Need something to go on.
Verified fuel with pressure, noid lights, and smell of unburned fuel. Idles very smooth. Changed out COP's since a few were bad. Using GTC505 engine Analyzer it shows nothing on passenger bank all cylinders but I can see that the screen is moving very fast on that #1 only, normal curve on all drivers side bank. Checked continuity from each wire to COP good. Checked trigger signal wire and found no grounds. Verified cam sensor signal ok. unplugged and it would not start indicating it;s not the problem. Swapped radio noise capacitors right and left with no change. Checked for Key on voltage at COPs. Plan next to check COP voltage using a spark tester and back probe under load. Finally, will run jumper from PCM to COP. Want to make sure I have checked everything before replacing PCM since the engine does start and idle smooth and have no other malfunctions. Do have error codes for cylinders 2-5 Pri/Sec Winding. #1 does not show the code. I appreciate any new ideas.
Not sure what LTFT and STFT curve vs load is.
Dave Mitchell Well what data do you have at all? What ignition voltage tests have you done, what cylinder compression tests, fuel stoichiometry, anything?
I have nothing to go on here.
Checking fuel systems problems always have a fire extinguisher within reach ! An inexpensive but reliable tester is a Magnetic Field Detector . This will pick up ignition coil and electronic fuel pulses . 6/10/23
A Lisle 20700 is also an excellent tool for checking spark coil strength .
Just re-watching some of these, and one thing I don't think you mentioned in the air section is exhaust. If you have a near completely restricted exhaust, it can cause a no-start issue. I belive Paul Danner has a case study on this from a faulty exhaust manifold that was almost completely blocked.
I do believe I mentioned that a sign of exhaust restriction is the car starts but then stumbles and dies after a few seconds when the backpressure builds. If I failed to mention that, you are correct it is a consideration. I believe I mention it in the second video on this series.
Ahh, very good then.
I would really love to have you do a stupid mods chat room rant video.
You could end it with a quote by dennis Miller. "but that's just my opinion I could be wrong"
Hahahaha Yeah one of my plans is to make a "response from ricers" video... some day!!
You got me addicted. Do you have any book's or video's I can purchase? Took me a long time on the web to find someone that really knows his stuff. ( Your the best ) I've found.
Your best bet would be my paid website which has even better videos and very basic explanations of electrical and computer controlled diagnostics. It is launching in a couple weeks. Subscribe to this channel and you'll be informed when it launches.
my car starts good with cooler engine. but only after I turn switch off it is very hard to restart. pontiac grand prix 2002. 3.1. anything about a no start hot engine. Hayes manual only says 3 causes.1 corroded battery terminals especcially ground.#2 dirty or blocked air filter#3 fuel not reaching injection system. any suggestions please Hayes repair manual is not so helpful. imo.
As I was watching this it occurred to me how much easier it is to diagnose a "crank no start" on an old car. Yet, the same principles apply.
you are correct. the principles are 100% the same indeed. in fact they are the same for a lawn mower that won’t start!!
the components and technologies and wiring may be different but the principles are 100% identical.
I've made a point of learning this method for no-starts. Like the guy says - if you don't find the cause after working through these steps, you either did it wrong... or you're just not wired right. lol
Hi Matt, I have a 2017 Camry 2.5 le. This is the second time it happened. Cranks hard but no start. Replaced battery first time (was old anyway). Happened again, left key in on position for a min then turned off and on and started. Tried few times later and works. I used a duplicate key till now, can the key be an issue, has delayed responses. No start happened only twice in past month. Appreciate the details shared.
The first thing I would do is see if you have fuel and spark when it cranks and doesn't start and go from there. It cannot be a battery problem if it cranks.
great video matt like your attention to detail
Matt, amazing lectures, I was looking exactly for this theoretical knowledge. Thank you very much.
Please answer if you can, which inexpensive scan tool I should get, ebay is full of all kind handheld devices, but I don't know if they will scan for fuel trim and other things.
And please if you can guide me in the right direction, my accord 08 4cylinder starts with high ideal RPM (2000) and keeps it for long time. Only after few min driving it drops. Plus some kind of slight whistle sound when I press gas pedal. Dealer didn't find anything wrong. Now I'm learning myself from your videos to resolve this issue. Thank you again.
Oleg
Matt, I also use
FACTS FACT
FuelAirCompressionTimingSpark F.A.C.T.S.
F.A.C.T. for diesels
JPPortug
my friend i have a fule presser gauge which self made by me, when i found low fule presser problem directly put gauge on output of fule pump, in indian cars there is no strater valve in fuel line.
Yes we do it yourselfers must be creative!!
i don't have the money for a $3,000 scan tool so the more videos that will teach me how to do such as a "good spark-good fuel no start"video using nothing but hand tools would be awesome . yes I am a smuk or otherwise known as a shade tree mechanic but I am pretty good with a carburetor but a throttle body is something I am just learning . I would love your assistance . you are not the only one I watch but I am one that watch's beginning to end , learns and I do not bitch
Who has a $3000 scan tool??? Mine is $300
New Metallica isn't as good as the older stuff, but I caught the reference to the song from Reload. Fight Fire With Fire is more my thing. FASTTEC does sound very wise, Air is seldom the issue, agreed.
my Pontiac Grand Prix is recently hard to start when engine is warm+ hot+ driven for awhile. runs great and starts good in morning or when car is cooler. but I get zero codes.3.1 century engine.
hello, you were very detailed showing how to test the injectors but didn't mention what to do if it is the injectors. i have a 2008 crown vic. pump is good and filter is new and I'm getting spark but it doesn't seem that my injectors are firing. all the fuses and all relays tested good, i've checked them 4 times threw out the last couple days . i have a new fuel pump. injectors don't seem to be firing with a noid light. what sensors would cause injectors not to fire'? also the car did start when i shot some starter fluid in the throttle. car was running good and killed in the rain immediately after i hit a descent pothole. i did not bottom out. also the day before i was checking the battery and put a load test on it with the car running on accident. i don't know if that affected anything. it was just a spit second not the whole 10 seconds
also i don't have a schrader valve to do a fuel test to check the fuel pressure but it seems as if the pressure is strong not fully positive but i did the open fuel line with the key on test and it spit out about a cup of gas in 1 second. again i think it is something telling the injectors not to fire but i don't know what to change out
You have an injector control circuit issue.
Thanks so much matt
Can't handle a little grease?
Funny thing about "just buying plugs and wires". Working on a newer 3800,crank,but no start. I pull a plug wire to check for spark,and the boot falls apart in my hand. Well,it obviously needs new wires,might as well do plugs while I'm at it,since it probably needs those too. Everything else checked out.
Yep,that fixed it. Dunno how or why. The odd part is,you'd think it would at least start,and sputter on 4-5 cylinders,but it wouldn't even do that. The old plugs/wires didn't even look that bad (aside from the one with the boot pulled off.).
Lucky day,I guess.
Yeah thats weird, I would have easily expected it to still at least start but run like crap. I wonder if, due to the waste spark design- it was actually just firing on 4 cylinders because all the spark from the coil was grounding out through the bad wire. Even then I would expect it to at least sputter.
You never know what's going to happen I guess!
Air test... Monitor map sensor, koec, then open full throttle (while still cranking) & watch for map sensor data change? (From closed to full throttle)
You would look for a change from idle vacuum to atmospheric pressure to full vacuum and back to idle vacuum if you did that test
Another way to check for fuel pressure drop test would be to pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the motor over and watch for pressure drop.
Cool video
Bravo! Absolutely amazing
Any chance you can share thr tools /equipment used/needed to diagnose?
Very educational video. I have a 2003 VW TDI crank no start obviously steps are the same ? I'm getting fuel to my injectors but I don't know if its enough to start because I have a engine code P0225 indicating quanity adjust to injection pump. It prolly basic science but any ideas I'd appreciate it ?
I have situation like in Your movie. My car does not start. It cranks. I checked fuel, injector is spraying fuel. It is single injection engine. I can see the fuel laying in the intake manifold. I checked the spark and they are sparking. I can't hear any sounds that would be a sign of a vacuum leak. I will try check for leak with smoke. What can you suggest more? I don't have copmression tester.
Jacek U How about timing?
You are a M.D in car repair! I have a 2004 jeep charakee with a 4.0 straight 6. It starts when its cold and stays running just fine but when I turn it off it won't start until it cools down. Could you tell me the diagnosis Dr.Schroeder? Please
I have a 1997 Chevy tahao took fuel tank for rusted pressure lines also while it was out replaced fuel pump
Put it back together started and ran for about a minute and cut off and I have no spark
Not sure about spider injectors if they could be vapor locked
Any ideas would be great
no spark has nothing to do with the fuel pump at all. issue is unrelated if you lost spark. try a crank sensor bypass.
2001 toyota camry I drive it all day with out the AC running !!!!! Then when I use the AC it will not turn over or it will turn over but will not start . But if I wait for about 30 too 45 minutes it starts. (1) What does the AC have to do with motor maybe over heating ? (2) the temp gage on the dash shows it is not hot, over heated.
Help please usefull comments
Hey I have a 92 geo metro hatch back 5 speed it cranks and won’t start but it’s getting spark and fuel and all the relays are good
Try a crank sensor bypass and see if you get spark if not you know where to look.
The way I test injector harness with a meter is I front probe one and back probe the other it's just a safer way
Yep I do that too. Best not to take chances.
Highly unlikely it's the ECU, or compression, or timing. Those are rare. It's likely, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or hall effect sensors, maybe wiring.
Lots of times, I will dump about 4 teaspoons of gasoline into the air cleaner housing. Typically you get 5-10 seconds worth of run out of that. Good roadside diagnostic as well.
Randall Dalton Absolutely. I usually spray carb cleaner, propane, anything flammable. If the engine runs even for a second Fuel goes right to the bottom of the suspect list.
I really enjoy your scientific methodology. Do you have a paid channel? I would have liked to help out your driveline lady.
I have to warn strongly against manually firing a fuel injector into a cylinder. Since the engine is not actually running, the fuel isn't being burned. Even if the fuel sits in the cylinder for a short amount of time, most if not all will quickly drain past the piston rings ( regardless of how new the engine maybe or how tight tolerances are ). The raw fuel will quickly collect into the crankcase with engine oil and can easily destroy the engine!!! This is a friendly warning ☺
But as Matt says... ALWAYS DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM!!! DON'T JUST RUN OUT AND START REPLACING PARTS!!! In my 15+ years as a master automotive technician, I've literally witnessed people squandering hundreds of thousands of dollars in parts just because Jim-Bob's brother had the same problem with an EGR valve!!! And the kids that work at AutoZone work in field of retail! Not automotive!!!
Correction on your first statement- The first part is not a concern because such a small amount is being injected when done for diagnostics., It is indeed a valid test.
The concern is not that the fuel will contaminate the oil and destroy the engine- that is not going to happen. The concern is if you somehow did run the injector long enough to cause any such volume your concern is HYDROLOCKING the engine because the fuel in the cylinder can't be compressed and that could very well damage the engine.
But again with less that a couple milliliters of fuel being used in this application there is no concern for either- but especially 2ml of fuel contaminating 5L of oil and destroying an engine. Not possible.
hi mat, what do you think of this.... i you suspect a vacuum leak and you can't detected via smoke or propane, theres a possibility that the pcv valve is stuck in the open position and would definitely suck a lot of vacuum creating a leak at idle and could not be able to find it via those methods, because the vacuum doesn't come from outside but from the engine block. sorry if i'm being kind of inocent but i'm just learning from your videos, and makes me think a lot of possible variables, i'm from argentina, hello to everybody
Yes an internal vacuum leak is a definite possibility HOWEVER it can only happen on a V style engine.
@@SchrodingersBox i think i have something to contribute to the fasttec method, in spark diagnosis i definetely add something more, depending of the type of car the alarm system can cut electricity to shut down the ignition, it has happened to me with my car, the alarm was activated and could'nt start the car and no sound or lights was warning me this, in fact i sold the car and the buyer call me for this problem and i explains this, she desactivated the alarm and start right away
@@SchrodingersBox i really don't get why ONLY in a V engine
Thanks for this video. A question. If my ignition switch went bad, it failed while driving and tried starting a lot while in traffic till finally got it stated just enough to clear traffic then nothing else from it. Since then I replaced ignition switch and crankshaft sensor but car won’t start, was told computer needs reprogramming, did that still no start, there is no spark so we thought it was the anti theft preventing but now the anti theft indicator gone. Car still won’t start. I am lost. Can you point me in a direction to go? The car is a GMC Acadia 2007 made in Canada
I am not following- you changed the ignition switch AND the CKPS? That doesn’t add up to me- what data indicates both of them were bad? I can’t see how that would be possible.
@@SchrodingersBox sorry about that not being clear. I changed the ignition switch because after car stalling and quitting there was an error code show faulty ignition switch hence the replacement. After replacing switch the car would not start and was not producing a spark so my friend who was working on car with me went ahead and replaced CKPS but there is still no spark from coils. I hope that is clear.
What code was for the ignition switch? There is no code for an ignition switch. It had to be for something else that was probably the clue.
I still don’t see the reason on changing the CKPS though- was the code for CKPS rather than ignition switch?
@@SchrodingersBox I don’t remember the code but base on the code we got and research the switch was what documentation recommended. However we also discovered that the 2 coil fuse blew and a connection leading from the ECM, haven’t found what it connects to, was loose because of broken clip. Will be replacing the connector but I am wondering if there is anything else that would cause the blown fuse and the ignition failure?
Ps. I don’t think the CKPS was bad my friend just jumped ahead to replace the part.
Matt, I have never asked for too much from you but I need advice today. I have an 05 Ford Freestyle and it won't start. I replaced the alternator because it stopped charging. I got a reman which stopped working 5 miles after installation due to a mistake I made which cause PS fluid to leak into alternator. I drove the car home and on the way the gauges and lights all shut down because battery got below 8 volts. I hooked the car up to a jump starter so that I could start the car to move it to another spot and I can't get it to start! I may be wrong here but I thought the car should still boost even with a bad alternator. Shouldn't a fully charged good battery make it start? Also, as crazy as this sounds, I have to batteries and it was starting with one but cranking no start with the other battery. now neither battery will start it. Thank you in advance for any reply you take the time to share..
+Ashley Lester So what data do you have from your voltage tests for the alternator?
+Schrodingers Box the alternator is bad. battery is reading about 12.5 key on engine off. don't have a reading of cranking volts. don't have fuel pressure reading due to no Schrader valve. It has pressure though. could the plugs be gas fouled from driving the car until the battery completely died. wouldn't the spark quit before the injectors? I'm going to check the inertia switch as well because I have read online from multiple sources that 05 freestyle is notorious for the inertia switch going bad with no warning. It has never had a problem starting before alternator quit. shouldn't it still boost with a bad alternator on it?
Ashley Lester What was the evidence the alternator was bad? You never said.
The battery started dying repeatedly.. Then one day I boosted it and as soon as I disconnected cables the car died.. Alternator tested bad at alternator & starter shop. New laternator orked temporarily until PS fluid leaked in because I forgot to put hose clamp on PS res. Thank you for answering me.
Ashley Lester omg... What was the voltage from the alternator???
I have a 2012 caddie Srx that will not start just one click need your help I did change the starter it was bad
What is the voltage drop on the starter?
Question related to vid: how do I know if my car is 12 v. elec. or mechanical fuel pump?? Aren't some fuel pumps inside the tank while others r outside?
just use a dvom and measure the voltage. also even more sinpky just Follow the feed or return line to determine pump location.
It's a 93 Volkswagen Cabriolet when I said I was getting juice to the coil and to the distributor meaning Electric but I'm not getting Sparks at the plug wires also I took the car to the islands not much modern instrument to work with sorry thanks
It makes no sense. How were you not getting juice to the distributer, then you change it, and now you have juice to the distributer? It defies logic.
Please do the basic tests shown to verify the inputs to the coil and outputs from PCM. That is the next step. Otherwise I am unable to help.
Hey Matt. just got a question for you. I have a 2010 kia forte with 150k km on it that exhibits an intermittent crank no start. I notice it more in the summer than the winter. I have replaced ignition coils, spark plugs, cam sensor. The crank speed is fast and normal, which tells me most likely the battery is not the culprit or the starter. Checked fuses and relays, all good. I have noticed that pushing the gas pedal will get it to start whenever it cranks. Do you know what it could be? Fuel related most likely? This issue is really hard as it is intermittent and cannot be reproduces on demand, even when it does crank and I hook up devices to being testing, it usually starts on the 2nd or 3rd try making it hard to perform FASTECC when you cant even check off F on the list as it starts randomly.
i would need to see the data you got that indicated this was an ignition problem. i don’t see how it could be but everything you did was ignition related so what data was showing that?
@@SchrodingersBox there was no indication it was ignition. We were basically just ticking boxes. We couldn't perform fastecc as the car randomly starts and randomly doesn't. When you can't reproduce symptoms, everything checks back as normal as the car starts. So we had to just check boxes off, the manual recommend for hard starting to suspect coils, plugs, cam/crank sensors, and of course mechanics told me there was no point in bringing the car as if the symptom won't reproduce itself we can't tell what the issue is. Based on what you hear, what do you think it could be? Does the pedal helping the car start when it rarely does crank lead to anything?
a vacuum leak could explain it for sure.
I've run into craziest situations yet on Nissan Sentra 2002 Gxe. No crank. No run. Died while driving. Hooked to Autel ran codes etc etc starts and runs with OBDII plugged in. Will not turn over with OBDII removed. All fuseses are good. Help help help.
never heard of that in my life. 2 things come to mind. First is possible short in the ALDL - I’d especially check if there is power- all of them should have power at pin 16.
Second possibility is CAN network issue that somehow the scantool is creating an interface maybe? I only know how to check it with a scope but I would check network signal with and without the Autel plugged in.
Really odd.
The jeep does crank over so its not the starter. Codes came up p0320,p1282,p0135, p0138 and p1685. Thanks
And what diagnostics have you done and what were your findings?
I checked for spark, that was good , no fouled plugs, not wet either , so next I need to find out if gas is getting in there, I have no schrader valve on my car,
I don't have tools proper tools
The gas pump hums and then does a click
After changing throttle body, I thought it was still crank no start , due to computer having a fault code so I disconnected the battery for a while, MISTAKE! So now it has no fault codes because the suv won't start and go down the road!!!
Thanks for the super informative video. I'm trying to get smarter with my diagnostics, but it's harder because cars just keep getting more complex.
I'm curious if it's useful to use starter fluid in the diagnostic sequence. If I squirt some starter fluid in the intake and it starts to detonate briefly like it's going to start up,but then just keeps cranking once the ether is used up, that means I can cross off spark, air, exhaust, compression, and possibly timing, right?
If you add starter fluid and the car does not run you can cross it being a fuel problem specifically off the list. Either it is a fuel problem AND something else, or it is something else.
When I added starter fluid, it started to run. Or at least, it was detonating for a second or two, but then it just immediately went back to the crank-no-start condition. Wouldn't that suggest that that it probably is a fuel problem?
@@rockwellmath you’re right but you’re complicating it a bit, I’ve done the same before lol the use of the starter fluid is to replace the vehicles method of delivery regarding one of the main ingredients to the recipe for the successful start of an engine. So IF the vehicle starts and DOESNT RUN, that means the problem is either spark related or complete air constriction of airflow for the engine to fire. It’s like sparking a lighter. If the spark isn’t strong enough, the presence of air and delivery of fuel won’t cause an ignition. And same with the fuel delivery. Cuz ignition just needs the presence of all three ingredients(fuel,air,spark) at the same time the spark is delivered. So if ignition doesn’t happen, one of the elements missed the ‘party’, ya digg? Lol
In my case the truck was hesitating on acceleration. Then after only 5 miles with this hesitation, it failed to start. No noise coming from the pump. Disconnected the fuel line under the truck. No fuel flow. Reconnected. Went through the bed to get at the pump. Way too much rust. Replaced pump. Tried to start it. Still no start. Went forward to replace the fuel filter. Completely clogged. Found out what caused the pump to fail.
How did you determine fuel filter was completely clogged? That is extremely unusual.
I replaced the gas tank fuel hanger and pump a month ago. It lasted about a month. Now it refuses to start. I can hear the pump run but it won't start. my 89 s10 did this before. The previous owner had installed the same items. So there has to be a issue causing this to happen. do you know anyone that can reflash the cal pack to start when the key is turned on. I thought of just running 12 volts wire to the fuel pump and be done with it. do the 89 s10 pickups zero out the pulse width modulation with no start issues?
what is the voltage drop?
how do I give the ecm an error and tell it RUN RIGHT NOW!! How do you deal with this. The poorly designed crap? Everything in your way. The people that design this crap should be made to work on it when they retire for 15 year. Then maybe they will understand!
My 4 runner will crank but not start first thing in the morning.However starts if started in the afternoon after standing in the sun. What cld be the problem
Anything could be the problem. What data do you have? have you measured the long term fuel trim curved against load while it''s running to get a initial idea?
Great comprehensive video--Is it not the case sometimes or even tempting that one has to swop out some parts to test all these conditions?
Only if the person is incompetent. A skilled diagnostician can test instead of guess.
@@SchrodingersBox Ha Ha, many thanks for your reply----Pity I didn't see your videos earlier but anyway enough spare parts here initially diagnosed as faulty to keep my BMW e30 going for another 20 years.
Wow really good stuff.