Very important to thoroughly wash the tank after using your wetting agent. The last thing you want are bubbles when you next use the tank, and fill it with developer. This is third type of daylight tank I have used for sheet film, and by far the best !
I got thrown into large format photography two weeks ago when I purchased a Speed Graflex camera two weeks ago at a thrift store for $10.49. :-) Frustrated with my first attempt of processing sheet film, I went online and discovered the SP-445 Compact 4x5 Film Processing System. I just purchased one and can't wait to give it a try!
Ordered and used one with R3 monobath. It was so simple I kept double checking myself for fear I was missing something. Ordered a second one for color negs because I didn't want to cross contaminate accidently. Can't wait to try this with my C41 color kit. Thanks guys
Please let us know what you think of the R3 monobath. I love the idea. I also wouldn't be concerned with cross-contamination. People have used plastic tanks and reels for roll film for decades with no issue. Just make sure you thoroughly rinse everything before putting it away.
great idea, but as a suggestion can you have a seperate cap, which comprises a "piston" that screws onto a cap hole, this would use air pressure to 'blow' or 'pop' the lid off , might also help for wet or stickey lids.
We've looked into it but are not sure the market would support the development cost. It's more likely that we'd go with an SP-645; that is 6 sheets in a slightly larger tank. In theory, it could use the same lid as the SP-445.
If I have more than 4 sheets of film to develop, how do I quickly dry the various parts of your system? I would suppose a soft lint-free towel and hair dryer would be a good place to start. Is it possible to simply buy extra film holders? That way some could be drying while I process another batch.
I wouldn't get too close with a hair dryer, you might cause the plastic to warp. Yes, extra holders are on our website: shop.stearmanpress.com/collections/photography/products/rev-4-4x5-film-holders-pair
@@timklein185 there is a RUclips video showing a white base that holds the tank to prevent it from falling over plus it holds all the pieces to facilitate drying. I just looked on your website and the base is not shown for sale. Was that a prototype or is your website needing an update? If those bases are for sale, how much are they? Thanks.
Owen, you must be thinking of 35mm roll film and not 4x5" sheet film. Way back in the '60s or '70s, folks were trying to figure out a way to develop 35mm film in their cassettes but as far as I know there was little success. That was because wet film tends to stick to itself. Plus when it gets wet, it swells due to the liquid getting into the gelatin base. 4x5" sheet film comes in boxes of 10 or 25 or 50 sheets, not cassettes. UPDATE: it came to mind that Owen *might* be thinking of developing the film in the 4x5" sheet film holders (they are not called "cassettes"). While anything is possible, the sheet film holders would be ruined or at least severely damaged. So ... No.
Have had my sp445 for a few weeks now, and: unfortunately, not much success!!! As a new person to film, and 4x5, there are many possibilities for my lack of success I am sure!??? Using FOMAPAN100...and ILFORD chemicals. Negs have come out wishy-washy...and verry low contrast!! Cannot see anywhere on here where I can upload 'a neg' to give more info on what I mean! Any help from SP-445-ers out there - would be appreciated! Thanks!
Gerry, if your negatives have low contrast, that has ZERO to do with the tank, and everything to do with your exposure and development. Your film speed may be much lower than you thought, you may not have developed long enough, developer temp too low, too many reasons to list.
Sounds like either a problem at the exposure stage, therefore you’re not metering your light for the shot properly. Or you are not being as strict as you have to be with chemical temperatures conditions and time of developing
Do use stopbath. Refresh the water of the whole tank, not just the top of the tank. You are spilling too much water. Do use professional stainless steel pegs.
Tapping the tank on the sink is no need for.. There is no manual / job sheet by Kodak, Agfa, Ilford or Fuji which tell you to do so. Jobo, Paterson, Johnson, Kindermann have never advised to do so. Your agitation of the tank is for too wild and abnormal..
Wow, that's the first time I've heard that! First, film companies don't generally tell you how to use the processing equipment. Second, tapping the tank is so common that it probably never occurred to them to mention it. If you don't, you WILL have air bubbles on your images. As for our agitation scheme, you're free to experiment. What we are demonstrating is what we've found works the best after six years and thousands of negatives. You'll find that many of our customers are even more aggressive!
You move your developing tank in an unique and very strange way, not the way done by the book. Not the methode of Kodak, Ansco, Agfa, Gevaert, Adox, Orwo, Ferrania, Forte, Polaroid, Foma, Fuji or Ilford. Not even the methode of Tetenal Photo Chemical Works, Not mentioned by Morgan in the Graflex Speed Graphic book. You can not lift and rotate a Kodak 8x10 film developimg tank.
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Very important to thoroughly wash the tank after using your wetting agent. The last thing you want are bubbles when you next use the tank, and fill it with developer. This is third type of daylight tank I have used for sheet film, and by far the best !
Just got mine in this weekend! Excited doesn't even begin to describe it! Thank you for making this! Very informative and to the point.
I got thrown into large format photography two weeks ago when I purchased a Speed Graflex camera two weeks ago at a thrift store for $10.49. :-) Frustrated with my first attempt of processing sheet film, I went online and discovered the SP-445 Compact 4x5 Film Processing System. I just purchased one and can't wait to give it a try!
2:47 friendly reminder to never pour fixer down the drain
Ordered mine today can't wait to use it. Great design bravo!
Good video, thanks! I just received the SP-445 today! :)
I've used mine four times already and it's super easy and squeezing the air out really minimizes drips. Great product!!!
I often skip the gloves and yes, squeezing makes all the difference to prevent leaks (as small as they are)
Very simple and well explained. Excellent video
Ordered and used one with R3 monobath. It was so simple I kept double checking myself for fear I was missing something. Ordered a second one for color negs because I didn't want to cross contaminate accidently. Can't wait to try this with my C41 color kit. Thanks guys
Please let us know what you think of the R3 monobath. I love the idea.
I also wouldn't be concerned with cross-contamination. People have used plastic tanks and reels for roll film for decades with no issue. Just make sure you thoroughly rinse everything before putting it away.
thanks, good to know, havent developed film since school so this was a good refresher.
great idea, but as a suggestion can you have a seperate cap, which comprises a "piston" that screws onto a cap hole, this would use air pressure to 'blow' or 'pop' the lid off , might also help for wet or stickey lids.
costume change between developing & rinsing a requirement?
@Tim Klein any thoughts about making a double size tank so 8 sheets could be processed? Of course, the chemistry needed would be doubled.
We've looked into it but are not sure the market would support the development cost. It's more likely that we'd go with an SP-645; that is 6 sheets in a slightly larger tank. In theory, it could use the same lid as the SP-445.
Is it necessary to adjust my developer dilution when using the Stearman compared to what I use to dip/dunk in 80oz tanks?
Probably don't need to change the dilution but you may have to experiment with agitation to get the contrast you want.
The top plate seems to become loose easily. There is no light leak protection.
Really? Never have had that happen. Are you doing the "squeeze play"? ruclips.net/video/vFF1F1PLM1U/видео.html
If I have more than 4 sheets of film to develop, how do I quickly dry the various parts of your system? I would suppose a soft lint-free towel and hair dryer would be a good place to start.
Is it possible to simply buy extra film holders? That way some could be drying while I process another batch.
I wouldn't get too close with a hair dryer, you might cause the plastic to warp. Yes, extra holders are on our website: shop.stearmanpress.com/collections/photography/products/rev-4-4x5-film-holders-pair
@@timklein185 there is a RUclips video showing a white base that holds the tank to prevent it from falling over plus it holds all the pieces to facilitate drying. I just looked on your website and the base is not shown for sale. Was that a prototype or is your website needing an update?
If those bases are for sale, how much are they?
Thanks.
Is there any way to develop film in the original film cassettes ?
Don't understand the question. What "film cassettes"?
Owen, you must be thinking of 35mm roll film and not 4x5" sheet film.
Way back in the '60s or '70s, folks were trying to figure out a way to develop 35mm film in their cassettes but as far as I know there was little success. That was because wet film tends to stick to itself. Plus when it gets wet, it swells due to the liquid getting into the gelatin base. 4x5" sheet film comes in boxes of 10 or 25 or 50 sheets, not cassettes.
UPDATE: it came to mind that Owen *might* be thinking of developing the film in the 4x5" sheet film holders (they are not called "cassettes"). While anything is possible, the sheet film holders would be ruined or at least severely damaged. So ... No.
Have had my sp445 for a few weeks now, and: unfortunately, not much success!!! As a new person to film, and 4x5, there are many possibilities for my lack of success I am sure!??? Using FOMAPAN100...and ILFORD chemicals. Negs have come out wishy-washy...and verry low contrast!! Cannot see anywhere on here where I can upload 'a neg' to give more info on what I mean! Any help from SP-445-ers out there - would be appreciated! Thanks!
Gerry, if your negatives have low contrast, that has ZERO to do with the tank, and everything to do with your exposure and development. Your film speed may be much lower than you thought, you may not have developed long enough, developer temp too low, too many reasons to list.
Sounds like either a problem at the exposure stage, therefore you’re not metering your light for the shot properly. Or you are not being as strict as you have to be with chemical temperatures conditions and time of developing
Jaco van Lith, Rotterdam The Netherlands
oh my God you can develop 4 sheet by using 450ml liquid it so economic tank I will order one
Mine came in the mail today. So far it looks great. Looking forward to using it this weekend.
Do use stopbath.
Refresh the water of the whole tank,
not just the top of the tank.
You are spilling too much water.
Do use professional stainless steel pegs.
Our chemistry has a slightly alkaline pH; DO NOT use a stop bath with it. Frankly, I don't understand the rest of your comments.
Tapping the tank on the sink is no need for..
There is no manual / job sheet by Kodak, Agfa,
Ilford or Fuji which tell you to do so.
Jobo, Paterson, Johnson, Kindermann have
never advised to do so.
Your agitation of the tank is for too wild and abnormal..
Wow, that's the first time I've heard that! First, film companies don't generally tell you how to use the processing equipment. Second, tapping the tank is so common that it probably never occurred to them to mention it. If you don't, you WILL have air bubbles on your images.
As for our agitation scheme, you're free to experiment. What we are demonstrating is what we've found works the best after six years and thousands of negatives. You'll find that many of our customers are even more aggressive!
You move your developing tank in an unique and very strange way,
not the way done by the book.
Not the methode of Kodak, Ansco, Agfa, Gevaert, Adox, Orwo,
Ferrania, Forte, Polaroid, Foma, Fuji or Ilford.
Not even the methode of Tetenal Photo Chemical Works,
Not mentioned by Morgan in the Graflex Speed Graphic book.
You can not lift and rotate a Kodak 8x10 film developimg tank.
Nothing strange about it! That's how it was engineered to be used.