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Thank you!

The meaning of rotation in the English language. Strictly speaking these camera backs do not rotate nor revolve. You do remove the back for either landscape or portrait. You could state lengths not in nonsense millimeters but in comprehensive centimeters (cm). The Wista 4 X 5" camera is superior to the Nagaoka and Toyo.

Seeing you flinging the tank around for agitation versus others who are ginger with it slowly turning it is a big difference. I guess it all works.

very helpful, thank you

Hey Tim. 1st time viewer and subscriber. I recently bought a super graphic and love it. I have been using Crown Graphics for years and just love the simplicity. I have a request. Is it possible for you to show how to install a new ground glass? The screws appear to be in closed within the rotating back. There are no videos on RUclips or google to address this and if you know how to do this you would be the first !! Thanks

shop.stearmanpress.com/collections/photography/products/sp-8x10-daylight-processing-tray

The Nagaoka is super nice, but for me Toyo is 100% the way to go as they’re one of the few professional LF producers that are actually still in business. You can get lens boards, backs, ground glass, bellows, etc brand new from their technicians.

Thanks for this video

I've used an under-the-sink iSpring reverse osmosis system for years. Only costs a couple of hundred bucks up front, and then less than $50 a year in filter replacement. The filtered water is at ~8 ppm, which is pretty good! Saves money and plastic very quickly. You can also put a small box into a changing bag to gain some functional volume. Love the tank!!

Interestingly on a custom printed recessed lens board you can get a G-Claron 150/9 in a Copal 0 to fit folded up into a Nagaoka. JUST. But it works, and is fantastic!

Someone need to fix this dude Tim (one of my fav youtubers) up with a fresh microphone

Thanks for the comparative video. If forced to replace my 4x5 monorail with one of the two field cameras in your video, I would choose the Nagaoka because I need movements and I primarily shoot wide-angle.

Fucking amazing

Hi Tim, I enjoyed your video. I have the Graflex Super Graphic. And in your video you mentioned about using the proper CAM for the lens. I have the 135mm lens and I just purchased the P33 cam. My issue is that I am having trouble installing the cam. I know that the cam goes into the inside upper front of the body but I am not sure as to the actual position. Would it be possible to post a photo showing how the cam is seated in its proper position? That would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks. Steve

You move your developing tank in an unique and very strange way, not the way done by the book. Not the methode of Kodak, Ansco, Agfa, Gevaert, Adox, Orwo, Ferrania, Forte, Polaroid, Foma, Fuji or Ilford. Not even the methode of Tetenal Photo Chemical Works, Not mentioned by Morgan in the Graflex Speed Graphic book. You can not lift and rotate a Kodak 8x10 film developimg tank.

Kodak tanks are best for developing a dozen of 8 x10 sheet film and glass plates. Just reintroduce those Kodak tanks. Or do a remake of Combiplan tanks. I do not understand all the fuzz about a 8 x 10 tank. Has everybody forgotten what all the American photographers did in their darkrooms? Jaco van Lith - The Netherlands

I just got a bunch of early wood Century Camera 8x10 film holders, what would be a cheap film stock to check these out with?

I need this!

Nicely done, Tim. I'm sitting here still chuckling.

The SP 4x5 is the best tank I have used except for the stainless steel dip tanks I used in college. Having one that could do 8 sheets would be great.

Wow not fragile at all. Nice demonstration. For me, using an SP-820 would be interesting as a means of developing two 8x10 negatives simultaneously---time saving and useful. I love the easy, scratch-free, hassle-free way 8x10 film sheets (not to mention other sheet sizes) load into my current SP-8x10----what a splendid feature----and I see how the SP-8x20 will fortunately be identical in that respect. Nice work designing these products!

nice job with this series! one thing on the arms. If you're making your own, consider putting a second elastic cuff about 3 or 4" up the sleeve from the final one on the end.

Just got one for my 8x10 hopefully it’s this easy!

Right on sir brilliant content we all thank keep shooting peace.

Took a different route: shop.stearmanpress.com/collections/photography/products/sp-8x10-daylight-processing-tray

Did you ever figure it out?

I love this tank. I think it is a really brillant design. The ability to use it for 8X10, 5x7 and 4x5 is really great. I have your SP-445 tank but I usually prefer to develop my 4x5 in this tray. I don't have a 8X10 and bought the tray specifically to process my 4x5. This is the easiest loading 4x5 system (short of developing in trays in the dark). Just great and I thank you for all your work for large format.

Is it necessary to adjust my developer dilution when using the Stearman compared to what I use to dip/dunk in 80oz tanks?

What I think?!? I think this is amazing, awesome, just great and just what we need! Think I'm kidding?! Not at all, large format photography is still there, it is back if you want, but it is still very much needed... and tools like this, the great minds behind them, realizing them, are a wonderful thing these days! I consider myself a 'modern' photographer and still use and need to develop 4x5/ 8x10, so THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

This the best tank I have used for processing my 4x5 film. I would like to see a tank that could do 8 sheets at a time.

I was lucky to get as much information that I could get before starting my LF journey and I love everything about it btw... I also knew what I wanted out of my first LF camera, it had to be light, quite compact and idealy able to carry a 150mm 5.6 Sironar N lens inside, so I can set it up fairly quickly and check the scene asap, I'm more of a 110mm - 210mm guy. And again light and compact, but also a modern designed black camera that reminds me more of an 80's Mamiya RZ67 rather than of a 50's classic Hasselblad with silver or even gold knobs... So when I found a Toyo CF (CF for carbon fiber) with a Rodenstock Geronar 150mm 6.3 lens (I still have this great sharp and contrasty lens for certain situations!) in like new condition for a price below $700, I got it right away and love it like no other camera I own ever since... It is simply amazing, you have to be a little gentle with it, but it rewards you with everything you need for the best start possible into LF photography. I have other cameras now, but go back to the ToyoCF all the time, it is a LF-pleasure! If you have an expensive metal field 4x5 and can't even drop the lens 1-2 inches without 10mins of fiddling with it, I find it annoying and not user friendly in the field. The ToyoCF was one of the best thought out designs in LF period. Now prices are up so much more and I look at the ToyoCF on eBay every week, thinking if I should get a 2. one for the rest of time...

Thanks for this. Both are too flimsy for me. The Intrepid is for students on a shoestring budget. But that's fine because it allows an inexpensive access to 4x5 work, which is good for everyone: It keeps the 4x5 film industry healthy. 👌 For me though, I prefer the rigidity of the Linhof Technika. Models IV and V can be had for not much more than the Nagaoka, and have 50cm extension and precise movements. I don't mind the weight, because I'm only 73 so I can hike with a 10kg camera back pack without issues. 😁

If that Nagaoka had more refined engineering in the metal parts, it could be a winner for me, for light-weight, short focal length lenses. But yes, the Toyo is better specified as a technical camera and far more sturdy, thus every bit worth the extra cost. (I use Linhof Technikas 4x5 & 5x7) This is a very interesting and informative presentation. Thank you Tim. 👌 Cheers, Kevin P.

Oh, Tim, when you are shooting your videos, you need to record your voice as mono. Then when you are editing, just copy your voice from the mono recording to both, the left audio channel and the right audio channel.

Thank you for thinking of the large format community and providing us with such useful inventions! Amazing!

Hello, thanks for posting your video. I have noticed that some Super Graphics are actually labeled "Toyo Super Graphic" but they look very similar or identical to the "Graflex Super Graphic." Can you please help clear up this confusion? Thanks, Steve

Has anyone complained about the volume of this video? I have my vol all the way up in YT and on my speakers and I can barely hear the audio

Thanks for the review, you did not mention weight, the intrepid weighs 1.2 kilos which is nothing and very nice if you are hiking all day. BTW not sure about this model buy IV has rear movements

Jaco van Lith, Rotterdam The Netherlands

How about SAFETY ? You wear gloves, you do not wear gloves and you wear gloves. Make up your mind, please. You must wear safety goggles while mixing the concentrate of the liquid with the water You should wear a white lab coat. .

Do use stopbath. Refresh the water of the whole tank, not just the top of the tank. You are spilling too much water. Do use professional stainless steel pegs.

Tapping the tank on the sink is no need for.. There is no manual / job sheet by Kodak, Agfa, Ilford or Fuji which tell you to do so. Jobo, Paterson, Johnson, Kindermann have never advised to do so. Your agitation of the tank is for too wild and abnormal..

Railway steam locomotives are painted black most of the time. When a new engine was introuced to the press and the railway companies the locomotive was painted grey. That was done for a better visibility to the photo press and the invited guests. YOU SHOULD HAVE PAINTED THE STEARMAN TANK PLUS ITS PARTS grey.

Thank you for this. As someone who needs reliability, and not be stuck with missing or broken parts, I would go for the Toyo in a heartbeat. That is, if the only alternative was a Graflex of any model, including the last model made. I was close to buying a similar Toyo, new, when I inherited a Linhof Technika III, which is a model from the 50s. Even so, being so old, the range of movements available are much greater than the Toyo, but I soon learnt the disadvantage of buying and needing to rely on an item which has been out of production for 60 years (at the time I acquired it). .. a damaged component could only be replaced by transplanting from a donor camera. Alternatively, have it made from scratch. No, I didn't go and order a Toyo, not to say that I wouldn't like to own one. I upgraded to a later Technika, because I frequently make use of the rear standard movements in technical work. But the Toyo you show us, for anyone looking for a landscape camera, that can serve just well for portraits, copy work and some macro, would be an excellent choice. ☆☆☆ One version of the Toyo 45AII accepts Linhof Technika lens boards, which is the one I would buy. Then it would fit nicely into to my LF inventory which is otherwise all Linhof, monorail and field. Cheers, and thanks again. 👌

Sorry if it´s a silly question but I was wondering if it would be possible make stand developing (8x10) on it.

Cool! ✌🏼

Ukraine

Why don’t you have a PT-17 tank?

Wow, Sherlock figuring out the world.

Is there anybody else but me, who still knows how the professional European darkrooms looked like? A professional photographer had his own studios, darkroom for B&W negative developing, a darkroom for colour negative and reversal developing. A darkroom for B&W printing and a darkroom for colour printing. Plus the darkroom for 5 x 7 or 8 x 10 B&W printing and developing. Negative developing by lifting & dunking, nitrous oxide or rotation. Well known brands to be found in the professional photo labs were Kodak, Combiplan, San Marco and Gretag. There were the Combiplan and Combiplan T tanks for sheetfilms. A superior brand for 4 x 5 and 5 x7 sheet film; six sheets per tank. The brand Combiplan has been sold to Biwex and later on to HP. I do not understand why this brand has disappeared.