Thanks for another clean and clear explanation of glues and their differences. The "open time" factor was key point for me, as was the void-filling value of epoxy.
Thank you, Scott, for linking your DuoTube with Tom Johnson. I’d missed that earlier and I throughly enjoyed watching two experts creatively kibbutzing together.
So - the chair seat which had split will now hold anyone. I bought clamps and everything! But I discovered that I - unlike the repaired chair - am not very strong! Ready for the next project.... thanks again.
Thank you so much for sharing some of your knowledge, I'm going to attempt to fix a few chairs for a neighbor, hopefully it's take apart sand both surfaces and apply glue and clamp.
Hello a recent subscriber from the UK . I have found your videos very enjoyable and informative . Also love your relaxed style , looking forward to watching all your vids over time . Thanks again
Great informative video! I was baffled though, to see that you didn't use epoxy on our sign-post, so that you had a structural (and weatherproof) glue that would make it possible to straighten it back to square. That or use a shim with the polyurethane. Also, many wood glues can be softened with heat for disassembly. I just undid an old kitchen chair after putting each joint close to my wood burning stove for a few minutes, since I lack a hot air gun. A guide for undoing various kinds of glue (even those you don't use), would be very useful. I know Lye and various other solvents can be useful.
An additional technique for epoxy. If you have a large gap to fill mix in some aggregate, sand or glass balloons, This will lend a great deal of additional strength to the glue joint. The same as adding aggregate to concrete.
The glue I use is fish glue (sometimes also hide glue) so I can take everything apart quickly if something goes wrong, it's cold glue and elastic, everything is reversible. It's also easy to remove excess glue. Simply wipe with hot water. This means that there are no tool marks when removing adhesive residues. Most importantly, it contains no chemicals, making it ideal for food grade woodwork. greating from Germany
Thanks for sharing that Angela. Would you mind sharing the brand name of the glue you use as others in Germany or Europe may be interested in using it. Thanks. Scott
Thanks for the info on glues and have used your videos to repair the repairs I have done to some chairs here in UK. Yep wrong glue used first time Poly instead of resin based
Woodwork Learner Its great to hear our videos are helping you repair chairs. It warms my heart to hear success stories. Thanks for posting a comment. Scott
When gluing antiques I understand the use of hide glue but wouldn’t /couldn’t a well built modern piece eventually become a antique? What would you take into consideration to determine if you have such a piece? and what type of glue should one use to repair a modern piece? Of course it would depend on the repairs but how dose one disassemble a piece when it’s been put together with modern glue? I’m new to furniture repair your videos are invaluable to me thanks keep up the good work.
I'm replacing a plywood component that split in a leather recliner that cost $1,000. There are two gusset blocks that will require gluing & screws. Thank you for this very informative video!!
Hi Scott - I've been watching through all your videos recently as I prepare to fix pretty much all of my dining room chairs over the holiday break. You frequently mention you use Hide Glue when you're working with antiques, fish glue when you'll have longer assembly time, but that most of the time you're using PVA glue. I'm curious why that's your go to and not Hide Glue as a default. From someone completely new to this, antique or not, it sounds like Hide Glue's ability to be reworked would make it the standard (and then use fish glue, epoxy, or waterproof glues in specific edge-case situations). Is it a matter of cost? Just trying to figure out why I wouldn't always want to default to a glue that allows me to easily take the chair back apart in the future. Thank you so much for this channel - they're immensely helpful for beginners like me!
I too find that the 'weatherproof' pva glus like tb2 and tb3 really don't deliver, despite the marketing. A glue that I'm leaning on more and more is CA glue. Its great for all sorts of little jobs, especially for trim and jigs, and for temporary situations (a quick smack parallel to the glue line snaps it right off). Its great for little repairs too like sticking chipped or split bits back together.
When repairing older furniture, how do you tell what glue is used in the joints? Do you apply heat and see if it comes apart or is there an easier way?
With experience, you get to know what old glue looks like. If it's brittle and brown, it's hide glue. If it's lighter colour or transparent and you're able to cut into it, it's PVA. When you're new to this, you can identify hide glue by dabbing some warm water on it... if it becomes sticky, it's hide glue. I hope that helps. Scott
translation by google sorry: Fish glue, liquid Highly viscous liquid at room temperature. On cooling further thickening to a rubbery consistency minus temperatures. After warming up, the product liquefies again without any loss of quality. Isinglass is a pure natural product obtained by boiling and then evaporating cod fish waste (skin, bone, cartilage) is obtained by breaking down gluten. The high elasticity combined with the very high adhesive strength makes fish glue a universally applicable glue. Fish glue is particularly suitable for gluing, where it is combined with very high strength and elasticity arrives Fish glue is particularly suitable for gluing end-grain wood, veneer and gluing various materials Materials such as metal or tortoise shell on wood. It is used as an adhesive for paper and tissue and as a Putty material used for glass and porcelain. Fish glue can be diluted with water, vinegar or milk and mixed with other adhesives (paste, gum arabic). be mixed. Physical Properties: Colour: yellowish white - brownish Solids content: approx. 45% Water content: approx. 55% Viscosity at 24°C: 4000 cps Average molecular weight: 60,000 Melting point: 5 - 10°C Ash: less than 0.1% pH: 4 - 6 Density (20°C): 1.17 g/cm3 The isinglass is made from cod waste. Viscosity is measured with an LVT Brookfield viscometer at 24°C with a rotating spindle. Additives to liquefy or lower the gel point are not used, fish derived ones Gelatin is liquid at room temperature. A small amount of sassafras is added to improve the smell. In our experience, fish glue lasts for more than 10 years. Our experience with customers is that Storage without carefully reclosing the product dries up. We recommend: do not pour any material back into the container. Store dry and cool away from direct sunlight. Shelf life: approx. 10 years after bottling date.
Funny you should ask. I'm working on a continuous grain walnut box right now that has some tear out. I'm shooting a video on how to deal with that... hint, it's after the finish goes on. Scott
Is there any application when you'd recommend using the Gorilla type, polyurethane glue for interior furniture repairs? (Is it not stronger in some repairs than a Titebond type yellow glue?) Enjoy your videos!
I would never use polyurethane glue for interior work. It's not stronger than PVA glue (e.g., Titebond). It foams up, but don't mistake that form for filling voids effectively as the foam has no structural strength. Cheers. Scott
Scott, All the repairs to chairs videos I've seen, I have not seen you suggest the products that are suppose to swell the wood to make a tight fit. In particular there is a product called ChaiRX by Briwax, available on Amazon. There are several other similar products. I have 8 dining room chairs (from about the 1930's) that have loose dowels. Some dowels broke and I have had to drill out the dowels so they are slightly loose (you can pull out the dowel with just your fingers) should I use ChaiRX, PVA type carpenter's glue, or epoxy?
I've purchased one of those glues but have not had a "test" piece of furniture to try it out on. Maybe I should make one up and give it a shot. I'm skeptical. You can use epoxy on a loose joint. If the chair is an antique, I would wrap a wood shaving around the tenon (the dowel part) slathered in hide glue. I hope that helps. Scott
Hi Scott, I’ve watched a lot of your video’s and learning a lot. I have six 100 year old chairs that I’m redoing. Re gluing and refinishing. The glue is hide glue they used, the joints have losing up little and are lose but the dowels are really tight. Really hard to get apart, I got the lose ones apart that could come apart. My question is would you use tight bond hide glue or something else.
Bone skin glue, he's historically the right one. and every later restorer knows what was used. With modern glues, in 100 years nobody will know what is in them and how to treat them. With skin glue, you will still know that in 100 years.
If you have a cabinet frame that is coming apart, there's likely an issue causing it that needs to be fixed. From a question about glue, it depends on the material. If it's solid wood, then wood glue (PVA). If it's MDF, I would stay away from water-based glue and go to a polyurethane. Does that help?
I would suggest replacing the wood for safety reasons. It's virtually impossible to clamp the wood together in a situation like that to get a proper bond. I hope that helps. Scott
i watched the video 2 times and i didnt really see where is all the info the comments are talking about? literally you just said which glues you use and thats really it.... was it really informational that u should use slow activation glue on complex designs? or to be fast with epoxy? didnt even mention relevant things like which glue is good for end to end gluing, or glues for hard vs soft woods or any actual info.... the only real info was to use epoxy on loose joints, which if u ever even heard of epoxy would be a logical choice.... to sum up this vid: use waterproof glue on stuff that will get wet (10/10) use slow activation glue on stuff u need time to setup (10/10) use epoxy on loose joints (and i guess nowhere else.... 10/10) use regular glue for regular stuff (10/10) clamp when gluing (............... what can i say 11/10)
@@toniisaacson6282 sorry man but no.... i came here because i dont know much about glue as well, im not a glue expert looking into YT glue videos to criticize them.... i can only agree with you if you never heard of glue and what glue does, which is hard for me to believe....
Thanks for the advice. As a side note you also have a beautiful and calming voice and manner of speaking. An added bonus :)
Thank you,
You are welcome!
Thanks for another clean and clear explanation of glues and their differences. The "open time" factor was key point for me, as was the void-filling value of epoxy.
Glad it was helpful! Scott
Thank you, Scott, for linking your DuoTube with Tom Johnson. I’d missed that earlier and I throughly enjoyed watching two experts creatively kibbutzing together.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing that Corey! Scott
Hi Scott - another Aussie here who also needed confirmation that epoxy was the way to go. Thanks so much.
No problem 👍
So - the chair seat which had split will now hold anyone. I bought clamps and everything! But I discovered that I - unlike the repaired chair - am not very strong! Ready for the next project.... thanks again.
Brilliant, easy-to-follow video! So helpful! Thank you so much! 🙏
Glad to hear it was helpful!
Thank you for the clear explanation
Thanks for the info very helpful
Happy to help! Scott
Thank you so much for sharing some of your knowledge, I'm going to attempt to fix a few chairs for a neighbor, hopefully it's take apart sand both surfaces and apply glue and clamp.
Great tips Scott. Love the sign.
Thanks Jay! It was a fun project. Cheers, Scott
Hello a recent subscriber from the UK . I have found your videos very enjoyable and informative . Also love your relaxed style , looking forward to watching all your vids over time . Thanks again
Thanks for subscribing Anthony. It makes me happy to hear you're enjoying our videos. Scott 🇨🇦
Great informative video!
I was baffled though, to see that you didn't use epoxy on our sign-post, so that you had a structural (and weatherproof) glue that would make it possible to straighten it back to square. That or use a shim with the polyurethane.
Also, many wood glues can be softened with heat for disassembly. I just undid an old kitchen chair after putting each joint close to my wood burning stove for a few minutes, since I lack a hot air gun. A guide for undoing various kinds of glue (even those you don't use), would be very useful. I know Lye and various other solvents can be useful.
Very interesting video
Really great video! Thanks for sharing :)
You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback. Scott
An additional technique for epoxy. If you have a large gap to fill mix in some aggregate, sand or glass balloons, This will lend a great deal of additional strength to the glue joint. The same as adding aggregate to concrete.
Great tip! Thank you. On our new video today, Tom Johnson explains how his thickens epoxy with a West System additive. Cheers. Scott
Great. Easer to follow
Great information. Thanks for sharing your know how.
You're welcome! Scott
The glue I use is fish glue (sometimes also hide glue) so I can take everything apart quickly if something goes wrong, it's cold glue and elastic, everything is reversible. It's also easy to remove excess glue. Simply wipe with hot water. This means that there are no tool marks when removing adhesive residues. Most importantly, it contains no chemicals, making it ideal for food grade woodwork. greating from Germany
Thanks for sharing that Angela. Would you mind sharing the brand name of the glue you use as others in Germany or Europe may be interested in using it. Thanks. Scott
Thanks for the info on glues and have used your videos to repair the repairs I have done to some chairs here in UK. Yep wrong glue used first time Poly instead of resin based
Woodwork Learner Its great to hear our videos are helping you repair chairs. It warms my heart to hear success stories. Thanks for posting a comment. Scott
When gluing antiques I understand the use of hide glue but wouldn’t /couldn’t a well built modern piece eventually become a antique? What would you take into consideration to determine if you have such a piece? and what type of glue should one use to repair a modern piece? Of course it would depend on the repairs but how dose one disassemble a piece when it’s been put together with modern glue?
I’m new to furniture repair your videos are invaluable to me thanks keep up the good work.
I'm replacing a plywood component that split in a leather recliner that cost $1,000. There are two gusset blocks that will require gluing & screws. Thank you for this very informative video!!
You're welcome. I'm glad you found it useful! Scott
Hi Scott - I've been watching through all your videos recently as I prepare to fix pretty much all of my dining room chairs over the holiday break. You frequently mention you use Hide Glue when you're working with antiques, fish glue when you'll have longer assembly time, but that most of the time you're using PVA glue. I'm curious why that's your go to and not Hide Glue as a default. From someone completely new to this, antique or not, it sounds like Hide Glue's ability to be reworked would make it the standard (and then use fish glue, epoxy, or waterproof glues in specific edge-case situations). Is it a matter of cost? Just trying to figure out why I wouldn't always want to default to a glue that allows me to easily take the chair back apart in the future. Thank you so much for this channel - they're immensely helpful for beginners like me!
Little late but probably the cost. I can get titebond pva for half the price of hide glue and when you use a lot of glue it adds up
@@woodworkingandepoxy643 Thanks!
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Thank you, just what I needed to confirm I needed epoxy glue for my project. New subscriber from Australia here.
Thanks for subscribing from "down under" as we call it. Happy to hear this was useful for you. Scott
I too find that the 'weatherproof' pva glus like tb2 and tb3 really don't deliver, despite the marketing.
A glue that I'm leaning on more and more is CA glue. Its great for all sorts of little jobs, especially for trim and jigs, and for temporary situations (a quick smack parallel to the glue line snaps it right off). Its great for little repairs too like sticking chipped or split bits back together.
Thanks for adding CA glue to the mix Brad. I think that will bea useful tip to some of our viewers. Scott
Which glue would I use if I was to bond MDF to pine? I am currently repairing a bed frame rail.
When repairing older furniture, how do you tell what glue is used in the joints? Do you apply heat and see if it comes apart or is there an easier way?
With experience, you get to know what old glue looks like. If it's brittle and brown, it's hide glue. If it's lighter colour or transparent and you're able to cut into it, it's PVA. When you're new to this, you can identify hide glue by dabbing some warm water on it... if it becomes sticky, it's hide glue. I hope that helps. Scott
What if you cannot get all old glue residue removed. Is there a solvent or solution you use to coat, then wipe off?
translation by google sorry:
Fish glue, liquid
Highly viscous liquid at room temperature. On cooling further thickening to a rubbery consistency
minus temperatures. After warming up, the product liquefies again without any loss of quality. Isinglass is a
pure natural product obtained by boiling and then evaporating cod fish waste (skin,
bone, cartilage) is obtained by breaking down gluten.
The high elasticity combined with the very high adhesive strength makes fish glue a universally applicable glue.
Fish glue is particularly suitable for gluing, where it is combined with very high strength and elasticity
arrives Fish glue is particularly suitable for gluing end-grain wood, veneer and gluing various materials
Materials such as metal or tortoise shell on wood. It is used as an adhesive for paper and tissue and as a
Putty material used for glass and porcelain.
Fish glue can be diluted with water, vinegar or milk and mixed with other adhesives (paste, gum arabic).
be mixed.
Physical Properties:
Colour: yellowish white - brownish
Solids content: approx. 45%
Water content: approx. 55%
Viscosity at 24°C: 4000 cps
Average molecular weight: 60,000
Melting point: 5 - 10°C
Ash: less than 0.1%
pH: 4 - 6
Density (20°C): 1.17 g/cm3
The isinglass is made from cod waste.
Viscosity is measured with an LVT Brookfield viscometer at 24°C with a rotating spindle.
Additives to liquefy or lower the gel point are not used, fish derived ones
Gelatin is liquid at room temperature.
A small amount of sassafras is added to improve the smell.
In our experience, fish glue lasts for more than 10 years. Our experience with customers is that
Storage without carefully reclosing the product dries up.
We recommend: do not pour any material back into the container.
Store dry and cool away from direct sunlight.
Shelf life: approx. 10 years after bottling date.
Thank you for sharing all those details! Scott
Any clues on how to repair tear out. I know avoiding tear out is the way to go but too late for that. Tear out in cherry, maple and oak workbench
Funny you should ask. I'm working on a continuous grain walnut box right now that has some tear out. I'm shooting a video on how to deal with that... hint, it's after the finish goes on. Scott
Hi dear which glue I can use my dining table corner layer peel off?
If you're referring to the veneer (thin piece of wood) on an antique table, hide glue is what you want to use. I hope that helps. Scott
@@FixingFurniture thanks for help dear
Is there any application when you'd recommend using the Gorilla type, polyurethane glue for interior furniture repairs? (Is it not stronger in some repairs than a Titebond type yellow glue?)
Enjoy your videos!
I would never use polyurethane glue for interior work. It's not stronger than PVA glue (e.g., Titebond). It foams up, but don't mistake that form for filling voids effectively as the foam has no structural strength. Cheers. Scott
Even a tight fitting repair, clamped together?@@FixingFurniture
Scott,
All the repairs to chairs videos I've seen, I have not seen you suggest the products that are suppose to swell the wood to make a tight fit. In particular there is a product called ChaiRX by Briwax, available on Amazon. There are several other similar products. I have 8 dining room chairs (from about the 1930's) that have loose dowels. Some dowels broke and I have had to drill out the dowels so they are slightly loose (you can pull out the dowel with just your fingers) should I use ChaiRX, PVA type carpenter's glue, or epoxy?
I've purchased one of those glues but have not had a "test" piece of furniture to try it out on. Maybe I should make one up and give it a shot. I'm skeptical. You can use epoxy on a loose joint. If the chair is an antique, I would wrap a wood shaving around the tenon (the dowel part) slathered in hide glue. I hope that helps. Scott
Epoxy glue comes in different types with different setting times. Follow the instructions, and you will get the best results
Thanks for the tip! Scott
Hi Scott, I’ve watched a lot of your video’s and learning a lot. I have six 100 year old chairs that I’m redoing. Re gluing and refinishing. The glue is hide glue they used, the joints have losing up little and are lose but the dowels are really tight. Really hard to get apart, I got the lose ones apart that could come apart. My question is would you use tight bond hide glue or something else.
Bone skin glue, he's historically the right one. and every later restorer knows what was used. With modern glues, in 100 years nobody will know what is in them and how to treat them. With skin glue, you will still know that in 100 years.
Hi, how can I fix the gap between the wooden frame and door. Which glue will help?
If you have a cabinet frame that is coming apart, there's likely an issue causing it that needs to be fixed. From a question about glue, it depends on the material. If it's solid wood, then wood glue (PVA). If it's MDF, I would stay away from water-based glue and go to a polyurethane. Does that help?
Thank you so much.
hi i have a question, one of the steps on my staircase broke in two what type of glue will be able to resist when i walk on the step
I would suggest replacing the wood for safety reasons. It's virtually impossible to clamp the wood together in a situation like that to get a proper bond. I hope that helps. Scott
Okay in my case it is possible to clamp the wood
If it is a clean long grain break then PVA, would be the answer. But as Scott said, this is a safety issue, so take my advice at your own risk.
i watched the video 2 times and i didnt really see where is all the info the comments are talking about? literally you just said which glues you use and thats really it.... was it really informational that u should use slow activation glue on complex designs? or to be fast with epoxy? didnt even mention relevant things like which glue is good for end to end gluing, or glues for hard vs soft woods or any actual info.... the only real info was to use epoxy on loose joints, which if u ever even heard of epoxy would be a logical choice....
to sum up this vid:
use waterproof glue on stuff that will get wet (10/10)
use slow activation glue on stuff u need time to setup (10/10)
use epoxy on loose joints (and i guess nowhere else.... 10/10)
use regular glue for regular stuff (10/10)
clamp when gluing (............... what can i say 11/10)
Some of us know nothing so found this video helpful.
@@toniisaacson6282 sorry man but no.... i came here because i dont know much about glue as well, im not a glue expert looking into YT glue videos to criticize them.... i can only agree with you if you never heard of glue and what glue does, which is hard for me to believe....
Sorry to hear you didn't find this useful. It sounds like you have enough experience with these already. Scott