Thanks for shout out. On the test I did, The long grain to long grain is actually a cross grain connection. So they should be fairly similar in that. but with the rig I was using, it puts more pressure on the glue joint itself. I would to try it with your computerized laod cell. That is so sweet. Nice work. I always love watching your tests. Lots of great analytical thought-through on that.
Hi Matthias, I work as an engineer for one of the top 3 adhesive manufacturers. What you measured is the torsional shear strength of the wood glue. One interesting thing that you pointed out is that the different failure mode in each sample. You can see the "adhesive" failure when the bond between wood and glue failed leaving a clean surface. Most appeared "cohesive" meaning that the glue failed in the bulk structure leaving adhesive on both sides. The wood breakage was a substrate failure and these results are typically discarded. A factor to account for when comparing to Wood by Wright's data is that your setup includes leverage from the force applied at the end of the wood block. Also important is each glue's reliability ratings like humidity and temperature that you mentioned. More rigid glues like superglue also might not be able to and the CTE mismatch during temperature swings.
@@DakotaBurgener Entirely depends on the substrate (wood or other material) and operating conditions (exposure to temperature, humidity, force, time etc.)
I was following you fine until the final sentence: _“More_ _rigid_ _glues_ _like_ _superglue_ _also_ _might_ _not_ _be_ _able_ _to_ _and_ _the_ _CTE_ _mismatch_ _during_ _temperature_ _swings.”_ Might be able to what? And what is a "CTE mismatch"?
@@BenInSeattle coëfficient of thermal expansion. Most materials expand if temps go up, and contract if temps get lower. The amount of geometric change per unit of temp change is the CTE. So each material has its typical CTE. For joint strength stability it is benificial if CTEs of glue and wood are as similar as possible. If not, then temp change causes internal stresses in the joint, as there is only a small temp range where the geometries closely match. Cyclic stresses can cause microfracturing and debonding within the joint. Leads to strength loss and ultimately to failure of the joint.
Fun fact about wood gluing my late Great Uncle Ralph taught me back when I was a child: (Using plain Elmer's wood glue circa 1986) when applying wood glue, brush it on all surfaces being glued, and let it cure for about a minute, then apply a second coat quickly and then put the pieces together, the extra tack and time for the glue on the wood helps evenly penetrate the surface of all the pores in the woodgrain, also helps the glue to remain wet longer when you reapply, thus giving it a longer more even cure rate in the end, and will not "flash cure" (when the wood wicks away the moisture of the glue too fast) thus weakening the glue's bond into the wood. Moistening with water will only dilute the bonds made on the surface of the wood, so that will not work. I still have the example of this very lesson, a desk I made for college, which underwent no less than 6 moves cross country, and none of the joints have failed to date.
It also helps a lot to apply the glue, brush it onto each piece, let it sit for a minute, apply more glue, then rather than just put the pieces together, SLIDE the pieces against each other a bit until they naturally seize together, then slide them into the correct position. I don't know why, but when this sliding technique is done correctly, it makes the connection much stronger.
@@seigeengine I agree with that. A long time ago I pointed out PF was doing biased comparisons and the indirect reply just confirmed it - never watched another video since.
Matthias, the amount of content you put into one 13 minute video other channels don't manage to put into 50 minutes. Thank you for always cutting straight to the chase!
@@matthiaswandel Universal truth of superglue... it always ends up on your hands. One thing to factor in as well is wood expansion/contraction breaking brittle glues (like superglue) over time. Construction adhesive can be much stronger e.g. PL Premium x8 and MAX with rated tensile strength 2-4x that of regular ones.
@@elminz A compliant glue like polyurethane is better if the temperature is going to vary a lot, especially if the two parts that are glued together are different materials. Old lab trick: if you want to separate two pieces of different materials that have been glued together, toss the assembly into liquid nitrogen.
As always, fun to watch your tests. Loved it when the samples popped off and flew through the air! I've been using the Gorilla wood glue for the last few years and have been quite happy with it all around. Nice to see it showing well in the standings!
Love these testing videos. Been watching your vids for years, and all the testing videos you've ever done are always my favourite. I just love cool graphs!
Matthias, thanks for doing this test in such a controlled way. Multiple samples, and then glad you went to hard wood! Very surprised that CA glue did so well.
I use construction adhesive regularly for, well, construction. What I’ve learned is there are many different kinds for specific purposes. DAP4000 for example has very high PSI ratings for cross-joint strength. So when your subfloor expands and contracts seasonally, you don’t shear the glue off. I imagine that you used one of the glues that’s designed to withstand expansion, and so is weaker (but less brittle). The more brittle stuff might make better furniture joints
Yep, I'm in the states and unfamiliar with LePage, so looked up the one he's using and it is for subfloor. LePage and Loctite are basically the same it looks like. Same parent company and similar brands between them. The PL 3x and 8x did really well in Project Farms testing
As much as I crave another one of your multi-part builds (like a marble contraption) the glue test was riveting and very informative. Without seeing this, I probably would never have even given Gorilla wood glue a chance which sounds like it deserved, so thank you Matthias. And don't stop leaving them uncensored, real reactions are well, real :)
That's a great comparison! Thank you. Further ideas for testing; perhaps try wiping down the gluing surfaces of the softwood with acetone or something to try to get rid of potential oiliness? And/or maybe scuffing the gluing surface a bit with some 80-grit sandpaper (even though it was already rough). Or maybe the softwood is just so relatively flexible that the weak points in the wood/joint are allowed to move enough for a break in the glue joint to propagate more easily.
Great follow-up to the last video. I was going to suggest doing a time-based test as well, to see how the glues deteriorate in strength over time (e.g. the super glue), but then you did the test with the old gorilla wood glue which was very interesting.
Thanks so much for doing this Matthias. Gorilla wood glue has been my favorite general purpose wood glue as of late and I’m glad to see a good showing here. Titebond 2 would be my #2.
Fantastic work, Matthias! Thanks a bunch for all the tests! 😃 Hot glue is pretty impressive indeed! And no one seems to trust it. Go figure. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I'll pop in early and say that you used the wrong construction adhesive. It has to be PL Premium - a polyurethane construction adhesive, and not the normal subfloor adhesive you tested.
@@F0XD1E I never said it was as good as wood glue, but it's good enough and certainly good for woodworking. My 20+ years of using it are proof of that, at least for me :)
Thanks for doing all those tests Matthias. Very interesting to see all those results. That must have taken a long time. The construction adhesive that you used is different than the one John uses which is a polyurethane. I use the same type that he uses. I was building a workbench a few years ago using that polyurethane ca and realized I had put a piece of wood in the wrong spot. By the time I had a chance to get back to correct my error it was about 20hrs. I was banging that piece of wood with my framing hammer multiple times and could not get it off.
yes. the pl premium is the polyurethane based glue which cures with moisture. i'm not sure how that pl400 cures. I would like to see how the pl premium holds up, i'd put a dollar on it winning or tieing with the epoxy.
Great test, thank you. A very useful test would be to glue up your samples and let them sit for a year, then test them again to see how many of them have maintained their strength over time.
Thank you for this! I never even considered gorilla glue before. Three factors for choosing titebind 3 Vs regular wood glue: 1. Outdoor/waterproofing needs 2. +5/10 minutes working time 3. Remains non tacky for longer, which makes bringing several tight joints together easier (like a row of dominos or finger joints).
I would really love to see similar tests with threads tapped into a few different species to see how strong wood threads are vs using threaded inserts and T-bolts.
I would like to see a similar test with the pulling apart strength. This 90 degree test is good but introduced a twisting effect to break the wood or the glue. So, to see how it pops apart too to bottom not sheer strength.
My general use shop glue has always been Titebond 2 and it does go bad after 4 years or so Thanks to you, Matthias, I will keep some Gorilla glue on the shelf!
Good test. The Titebond III is waterproof though. Don't know about the gorilla wood glue. A few percent isn't a major concern to choose one over the others for all applications. The top performers are all fairly strong and are likely to break the wood before the glue. Stuff like working time, cleanup, water resistance, finish appearance, and sandability all come into play for real projects.
I'm thankful that the winner in this case is actually easy to find almost everywhere. Given the results with CA, now I'm curious if spray on CA will yield similar results. Having a very strong spray on glue for wood could be really handy to have around a workshop.
I seem to recall seeing one YT tester saying that a smooth surface created a better bond than a rough one (which was memorable because I always thought the opposite). Anyway, that might explain your softwood vs. maple; you even said the softwood was freshly sawn and quite rough.
Bravo for the constant strain rate tester, a DIY Instron. As with wood glues, there are numerous construction adhesives. Not all of either category are created equal. The Liquid Nails construction adhesives tested by Project Farm in July 2019 was at the bottom of the pack.
Thank for your an entertaining and informative video! I'd love to see you test the hide glues as well. Both Old Brown Glue and Titebond Hide glue. Again thanks for great content. Cheers from Norway.
Thanks Matthias. Very helpful. Would have been interesting to see a comparison with T-88 epoxy which is the go-to adhesive these days in wood aircraft construction using sitka spruce or douglas fir.
My wife got me some Gorilla wood glue from the Ambassador Bridge border store for real cheap and I am very impressed with its performance. I'm glad to hear it still works well when old. I agree that there is no "one" glue. It all depends on the purpose at hand. Gorilla hair-gel (polyurethane glue) is great when gluing wood to a non-wood surface, for instance. Or of course when you're having a really bad hair day. Titebond III is the choice for cutting boards where water-proofness and food safety are concerns. I use hot hide glue as well as fish glue for stringed instruments. It would be interesting to see a test like this performed with those. Great video as always, Matthias. Keep up the good work.
THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! I have the big chug (3,78l) of titebond III since almost 6 years ago and it still works great !:D I stored it good though, in the cellar.
Thanks for doing this! That very thorough, methodical approach reminds me of Project Farm tests. I have been using BondCrete which is a PVA concrete admix/sealer/surfacePrep here in Australia and getting better results than traditional wood glues, with the addition that I already have it on hand in 5L buckets, be interesting to know if you have something similar there you could test.
Bondcrete is basically just standard PVA, but in bulk. It certainly works well on timber, but surprisingly (for what it's sold as) it is not particularly waterproof.
Thank you for this presentation of wood glued, was thinking of getting weld-bond glue and it seems that it looks really good on the graphs without hot glue or epoxy
I feel like the surface finish has a lot to do with how good the glue holds. Something like oak with a ton of texture and pores combined with a good runny wet wood glue (water based to open up the pores too) would hold 2x as well as on a freshly jointed maple face which is ultra hard, and smooth and non porous.
Just out of interest I'd love to see a dial indicator on that structural post to see how much it flexes when your doing the tests. Obviously wouldn't impact the result but its fascinating to see how much 'solid' things actually move!
this video is awesome, I love how well documented it is. would be cool if you could do a video of different woods to see their durability as well. been wondering durability between domestic and imported birch and the refinished birch, so many options out there.
Great video, never would have thought CA would have done that well. Real world feedback. Gorilla foaming glue doesn't hold up in the humid Texas Gulf Coast climate. I used it to repair part of a fence picket (the top piece broke off due to a knot and a utility line worker). It lasted 3-4 years before the glue failed and the wood again became loose. I cleaned it the best I could and used Tight Bond III and so far (4+ years) its holding.
TB3 is still my favourite as a general use wood glue. I've never been a fan of WB or LePage in the past. Gorilla glue always worked as a "repair it now, not repair it right" sort of solution. Good to have around in emergencies but certainly not a woodworker's staple, in my humble opinion. Just like construction adhesive it's great at dissimilar material bonding for funky applications. The thing that stands out the most is that the normal cure two-part epoxy is weaker in your tests than the 5 min. I guess your data might warrant looking into LePage again. Thanks for sharing, good sir!
nice and interesting test!! Thanks!!would it make a difference if the test machine was pushing from other directions? for example, from the inside towards the outside (or the other way around) or along the glued piece? are glued pieces commonly stressed along these directions in usual woodwork?
As a retired custom furniture/cabinet maker, I've used a lot of glue, and I'm still doing some woodworking. I got a kick out of how your "test" came out compared to my favorites. For ME, construction adhesive really hasn't been all that strong, and my two by far favorite woodworking glues are, Gorilla wood glue and Tite bond 3! Looks like we are on the same wav length! lol SR
@@marcelo403polo2 Titebond has been my go to for home audio projects for years, this makes me want to try out the GG to see how that works out. I’ve also used construction adhesive for a few larger 30-40 cubic feet enclosures and I’ve found that it’s got a long set time so positioning awkward pieces was always easy. It fills gaps great and it sticks to most any surfaces + angles.
@@Noughtta Being that it's formulated for structural use, I wonder if construction adhesive has more give to accommodate building flex without cracking. If so, that give might have an impact on the acoustic properties of the enclosures.
Titebond 2 is my go-to, especially if you need something that sets up quick and for most interior projects.. Titebond 3 for exterior stuff or when you need a longer working time!!! All the other choices are garbage except the cheap "wood glues" which are fine for most DIY/weekend warrior stuff. Construction adhesive is just that. Construction adhesive. Yes it will hold but no where near a real wood glue. My fav construction adhesive is probably Sika adhesive, the gooey PL stuff is pretty good too but I'll always grab a tube of Sika before anything else.
Interesting test. I just watched Project Farm and the Elmer's Max and Titebond 3 came out on top but he didn't test as many as you did. Great job on the testing 👍
i've been watching you for about 4 years now inspired to do some tinkering, but as i live in a city, i can't have a workshop one day, i'll get a 3d printer and actually start doing tinkering like you do keep up the good work! -some 17 year old
Your previous video where you experienced the bridle joint glue failures had me wondering...was it really a glue *failure*, or was it glue *starvation*? With the testing here, you just did a single face joint, which allowed getting a nice even layer of glue between the pieces before clamping. But with a bridle joint, or even more so with a box joint, you have to slide the pieces together during assembly, so it's not really an apples-to-apples comparison. I have often wondered if having a tight-fitting joint before adding glue just ends up scraping all the glue out of the joint during assembly. Your bridle joint tests where it appeared there wasn't any glue applied after they failed seemed to reinforce that theory. What might be an interesting set of tests would be to try bridle joints with varying clearances and use the same glue for each to see if the problem is that you are pushing all the glue out rather than the strength of the glue itself. And if so, what is the optimum clearance before the glue layer becomes too brittle and weak due to thickness?
Interesting point. Matthias once said of the foaming Gorilla Glue, _“I_ _guess_ _it's_ _a_ _good_ _glue_ _to_ _expand_ _into_ _inaccurate_ _joints,_ _but_ _I_ _prefer_ _to_ _just_ _make_ _my_ _joints_ _so_ _that_ _they_ _are_ _accurate.”_ If Matthias is accurate to the point of nearly zero clearance, it wouldn't be surprising if he scraped the glue out of bridle joints.
Gotta love empirical evidence. I've used Titebond III for a long time and will probably continue since I'm very familiar with it's dry times for big glue-ups. However, for small, quick projects I've started using CA glue and it's a wonder.
Looking at your videos of the "glue failures" situations (as opposed to when the wood itself is cracking and splintering), it looks like the specific failure most of the time is in the adhesion of the glue to the wood surfaces. I would conjecture that CA glue is superior because its lower viscosity and thinner nature allows some amount of penetration into the depth of the wood, rather than just staying on the surface, thus forming more of a 3-dimensional bonding zone between the two pieces of wood. Think penetration in metal welds as an analogy. If this is indeed the case then it would be very interesting to see if macroscopically roughing up the mating surfaces, to make the bond zone thicker, could increase bond strength with some of the weaker adhesives.
I use tight bond 3, mostly because I remember it holding up well in strength tests and exposure to moisture/elements. The downside is it dries darker and is harder to clean off of wood wet than a lot of other glues. I would be interested to see how gorilla wood glue holds up to water or moisture/temperature. Might be a worthwhile switch if I can get it in a jug like tightbond.
Great to know! I bought a big jug of Titebond I (the one with red packaging) and it seems to never really go bad, similar to your Lepage. I wonder if it's possible to somehow test strength of a joint after a long period of time. Probably wouldn't have any relevant samples, though.
Хобби
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Thanks for shout out. On the test I did, The long grain to long grain is actually a cross grain connection. So they should be fairly similar in that. but with the rig I was using, it puts more pressure on the glue joint itself. I would to try it with your computerized laod cell. That is so sweet. Nice work. I always love watching your tests. Lots of great analytical thought-through on that.
Shut up? :D
@@D4rkS7der there's glue on his O key
shout out*
@@D4rkS7der Freudian? …
@@smitm108 My guess is phone autocorrect
Hi Matthias, I work as an engineer for one of the top 3 adhesive manufacturers. What you measured is the torsional shear strength of the wood glue. One interesting thing that you pointed out is that the different failure mode in each sample. You can see the "adhesive" failure when the bond between wood and glue failed leaving a clean surface. Most appeared "cohesive" meaning that the glue failed in the bulk structure leaving adhesive on both sides. The wood breakage was a substrate failure and these results are typically discarded. A factor to account for when comparing to Wood by Wright's data is that your setup includes leverage from the force applied at the end of the wood block. Also important is each glue's reliability ratings like humidity and temperature that you mentioned. More rigid glues like superglue also might not be able to and the CTE mismatch during temperature swings.
I wasn't sure if you were making this up, but I checked your username and you're not a phony so thanks for your insights! 😉
What glue would you recommend?
@@DakotaBurgener Entirely depends on the substrate (wood or other material) and operating conditions (exposure to temperature, humidity, force, time etc.)
I was following you fine until the final sentence: _“More_ _rigid_ _glues_ _like_ _superglue_ _also_ _might_ _not_ _be_ _able_ _to_ _and_ _the_ _CTE_ _mismatch_ _during_ _temperature_ _swings.”_
Might be able to what? And what is a "CTE mismatch"?
@@BenInSeattle coëfficient of thermal expansion. Most materials expand if temps go up, and contract if temps get lower. The amount of geometric change per unit of temp change is the CTE. So each material has its typical CTE. For joint strength stability it is benificial if CTEs of glue and wood are as similar as possible. If not, then temp change causes internal stresses in the joint, as there is only a small temp range where the geometries closely match. Cyclic stresses can cause microfracturing and debonding within the joint. Leads to strength loss and ultimately to failure of the joint.
Fun fact about wood gluing my late Great Uncle Ralph taught me back when I was a child: (Using plain Elmer's wood glue circa 1986) when applying wood glue, brush it on all surfaces being glued, and let it cure for about a minute, then apply a second coat quickly and then put the pieces together, the extra tack and time for the glue on the wood helps evenly penetrate the surface of all the pores in the woodgrain, also helps the glue to remain wet longer when you reapply, thus giving it a longer more even cure rate in the end, and will not "flash cure" (when the wood wicks away the moisture of the glue too fast) thus weakening the glue's bond into the wood. Moistening with water will only dilute the bonds made on the surface of the wood, so that will not work. I still have the example of this very lesson, a desk I made for college, which underwent no less than 6 moves cross country, and none of the joints have failed to date.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing.
👍
I enjoy this tip thank you
It also helps a lot to apply the glue, brush it onto each piece, let it sit for a minute, apply more glue, then rather than just put the pieces together, SLIDE the pieces against each other a bit until they naturally seize together, then slide them into the correct position. I don't know why, but when this sliding technique is done correctly, it makes the connection much stronger.
All this would be worth thoroughly testing.
These “project farm style” comparison videos with Matthias’ approach to testing are really good.
alright alright, now for the taste test
Please don't insult Matthias' work by comparing it to Project Farm's awful videos.
@@seigeengine really? awful? There are at times in which I wish he would do something slightly different. But overall his testing is constant and good
@@seigeengine I agree with that. A long time ago I pointed out PF was doing biased comparisons and the indirect reply just confirmed it - never watched another video since.
I don’t know what you guys are talking about. Project farm seems pretty unbiased to me.
Matthias, the amount of content you put into one 13 minute video other channels don't manage to put into 50 minutes. Thank you for always cutting straight to the chase!
Yes sir. You made a great video thank you
For me, the strongest glue is always where i didn't mean to apply it.
I discovered superglue sticks amazingly well to skin!
@@matthiaswandel It's even usable for closing a cut in a pinch lol
@@firstlast446 It's my go-to for most cuts. Exponentially better than any bandage.
@@matthiaswandel Universal truth of superglue... it always ends up on your hands. One thing to factor in as well is wood expansion/contraction breaking brittle glues (like superglue) over time. Construction adhesive can be much stronger e.g. PL Premium x8 and MAX with rated tensile strength 2-4x that of regular ones.
@@elminz A compliant glue like polyurethane is better if the temperature is going to vary a lot, especially if the two parts that are glued together are different materials. Old lab trick: if you want to separate two pieces of different materials that have been glued together, toss the assembly into liquid nitrogen.
Love the quality of your testing, and the conclusions and personal opinions you provide us with. Keep up the great work!
As always, fun to watch your tests. Loved it when the samples popped off and flew through the air!
I've been using the Gorilla wood glue for the last few years and have been quite happy with it all around. Nice to see it showing well in the standings!
I LOVE these in-depth analysis of specific subjects!!
Thanks again Matthias!
This is great content! Thanks for buying all the glues, building a load tester and writing the software.
Love these testing videos. Been watching your vids for years, and all the testing videos you've ever done are always my favourite. I just love cool graphs!
I do appreciate your scientific approach to testing things. Nice video!
Matthias, thanks for doing this test in such a controlled way. Multiple samples, and then glad you went to hard wood! Very surprised that CA glue did so well.
I use construction adhesive regularly for, well, construction. What I’ve learned is there are many different kinds for specific purposes. DAP4000 for example has very high PSI ratings for cross-joint strength. So when your subfloor expands and contracts seasonally, you don’t shear the glue off. I imagine that you used one of the glues that’s designed to withstand expansion, and so is weaker (but less brittle). The more brittle stuff might make better furniture joints
Yep, I'm in the states and unfamiliar with LePage, so looked up the one he's using and it is for subfloor. LePage and Loctite are basically the same it looks like. Same parent company and similar brands between them. The PL 3x and 8x did really well in Project Farms testing
Fascinating comparative analysis. Thank you for this.
John Heisz in shambles
This is another great set of comparison videos, nice work!
As much as I crave another one of your multi-part builds (like a marble contraption) the glue test was riveting and very informative. Without seeing this, I probably would never have even given Gorilla wood glue a chance which sounds like it deserved, so thank you Matthias. And don't stop leaving them uncensored, real reactions are well, real :)
Good information. The results will probably "stick" with me even though not the exact numbers. :-)
I really like these testing videos! Very interesting results.
Like most other video, this was the best you did for your woodworker viewers. Thanks dear.
Another great video for those of us just getting started. Thank you sir.
Very cool experiment and a fascinating result. Great video!
That's a great comparison! Thank you.
Further ideas for testing; perhaps try wiping down the gluing surfaces of the softwood with acetone or something to try to get rid of potential oiliness? And/or maybe scuffing the gluing surface a bit with some 80-grit sandpaper (even though it was already rough).
Or maybe the softwood is just so relatively flexible that the weak points in the wood/joint are allowed to move enough for a break in the glue joint to propagate more easily.
Great follow-up to the last video. I was going to suggest doing a time-based test as well, to see how the glues deteriorate in strength over time (e.g. the super glue), but then you did the test with the old gorilla wood glue which was very interesting.
Very interesting. I think it shines an interesting light on “with modern glues, the wood will fail before the glue.” Thanks for the analysis.
Project farm would love watching these tests. Keep up the nice work, Matthias!
Thanks so much for doing this Matthias. Gorilla wood glue has been my favorite general purpose wood glue as of late and I’m glad to see a good showing here. Titebond 2 would be my #2.
Fantastic work, Matthias! Thanks a bunch for all the tests! 😃
Hot glue is pretty impressive indeed! And no one seems to trust it. Go figure. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
as long as you don't use it as intended, by not using an actual glue gun
Well done test Matthias! Excellent video!
Incredible video Mattias, thank-you very much!!
Nice job on the testing Matthias! Thanks for sharing with us!👍💖😎JP
Outstanding work, Matt.
Man, you crack me up. Watching your invention launch wood across the room 🤣 Super smart guy just doing your thing. I appreciate you!
I'll pop in early and say that you used the wrong construction adhesive. It has to be PL Premium - a polyurethane construction adhesive, and not the normal subfloor adhesive you tested.
Now I want to see a video on which construction adhesive is strongest...
Moar content? We all win! 😁
Except perhaps for Mathias, having to repeat the test cycles again, with different wood than this set of tests.
Still don't think it would be as good as the wood glue.
john with the burn
@@F0XD1E I never said it was as good as wood glue, but it's good enough and certainly good for woodworking. My 20+ years of using it are proof of that, at least for me :)
Thanks for doing all those tests Matthias. Very interesting to see all those results. That must have taken a long time.
The construction adhesive that you used is different than the one John uses which is a polyurethane. I use the same type that he uses. I was building a workbench a few years ago using that polyurethane ca and realized I had put a piece of wood in the wrong spot. By the time I had a chance to get back to correct my error it was about 20hrs. I was banging that piece of wood with my framing hammer multiple times and could not get it off.
yes. the pl premium is the polyurethane based glue which cures with moisture. i'm not sure how that pl400 cures. I would like to see how the pl premium holds up, i'd put a dollar on it winning or tieing with the epoxy.
Great test, thank you.
A very useful test would be to glue up your samples and let them sit for a year, then test them again to see how many of them have maintained their strength over time.
Wow!!!! A lot of testing!!!! Thanks for the great info!!!!!
Nice video you all ways have great use full ideals when it comes to wood working and testing.
Thank you for this! I never even considered gorilla glue before.
Three factors for choosing titebind 3 Vs regular wood glue:
1. Outdoor/waterproofing needs
2. +5/10 minutes working time
3. Remains non tacky for longer, which makes bringing several tight joints together easier (like a row of dominos or finger joints).
Nice test. Thanks for doing this
Something about the meeting of wood, mechanics, and scripting just tickles the hell out of me. Bona-fide renaissance man.
I would really love to see similar tests with threads tapped into a few different species to see how strong wood threads are vs using threaded inserts and T-bolts.
I would like to see a similar test with the pulling apart strength. This 90 degree test is good but introduced a twisting effect to break the wood or the glue. So, to see how it pops apart too to bottom not sheer strength.
I was going to suggest the same. I imagine the hot glue would fail quickly.
I absolutely love these seemingly somewhat "obsessive compulsive" test videos ;)
Awesome test!
Great video mate. Very handy to know this.
Always interested in videos from you Matias!)
My general use shop glue has always been Titebond 2 and it does go bad after 4 years or so
Thanks to you, Matthias, I will keep some Gorilla glue on the shelf!
Good test. The Titebond III is waterproof though. Don't know about the gorilla wood glue.
A few percent isn't a major concern to choose one over the others for all applications. The top performers are all fairly strong and are likely to break the wood before the glue. Stuff like working time, cleanup, water resistance, finish appearance, and sandability all come into play for real projects.
The gorilla wood glue is type II water resistant; not water proof, but fine for projects subjected to moisture (rain, splashes, etc.).
Nicely done!
I'm thankful that the winner in this case is actually easy to find almost everywhere. Given the results with CA, now I'm curious if spray on CA will yield similar results. Having a very strong spray on glue for wood could be really handy to have around a workshop.
love these strength tests
I seem to recall seeing one YT tester saying that a smooth surface created a better bond than a rough one (which was memorable because I always thought the opposite). Anyway, that might explain your softwood vs. maple; you even said the softwood was freshly sawn and quite rough.
Bravo for the constant strain rate tester, a DIY Instron.
As with wood glues, there are numerous construction adhesives. Not all of either category are created equal. The Liquid Nails construction adhesives tested by Project Farm in July 2019 was at the bottom of the pack.
Glad to hear you mention clothing. That's the main reason I stopped using Titebond 3, because it WILL NOT wash out.
No waterproof glue will wash out, which should be pretty obvious.
Thank for your an entertaining and informative video! I'd love to see you test the hide glues as well. Both Old Brown Glue and Titebond Hide glue. Again thanks for great content. Cheers from Norway.
I like Matthias' scientific aproach to the test:
Random RUclips comment: You're wrong
Matthias: No, you're wrong and here's some data to back it up
😅
That is way he is the GOAT!
*If* he had included some basic stats like a variance analysis, I agree ....
Great test Matthias.
Brilliant. Enjoyed watching that.
Thanks Matthias. Very helpful. Would have been interesting to see a comparison with T-88 epoxy which is the go-to adhesive these days in wood aircraft construction using sitka spruce or douglas fir.
My wife got me some Gorilla wood glue from the Ambassador Bridge border store for real cheap and I am very impressed with its performance. I'm glad to hear it still works well when old. I agree that there is no "one" glue. It all depends on the purpose at hand. Gorilla hair-gel (polyurethane glue) is great when gluing wood to a non-wood surface, for instance. Or of course when you're having a really bad hair day. Titebond III is the choice for cutting boards where water-proofness and food safety are concerns. I use hot hide glue as well as fish glue for stringed instruments. It would be interesting to see a test like this performed with those.
Great video as always, Matthias. Keep up the good work.
Very interesting results!
Thanks Matthias! I'll keep on using my cheap white glue with more confidence 🙂
THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! I have the big chug (3,78l) of titebond III since almost 6 years ago and it still works great !:D I stored it good though, in the cellar.
This. This is why I love this channel
Thanks for doing this!
That very thorough, methodical approach reminds me of Project Farm tests.
I have been using BondCrete which is a PVA concrete admix/sealer/surfacePrep here in Australia and getting better results than traditional wood glues, with the addition that I already have it on hand in 5L buckets, be interesting to know if you have something similar there you could test.
Bondcrete is basically just standard PVA, but in bulk. It certainly works well on timber, but surprisingly (for what it's sold as) it is not particularly waterproof.
Thank you for this presentation of wood glued, was thinking of getting weld-bond glue and it seems that it looks really good on the graphs without hot glue or epoxy
Great test
This is a great ASMR video. Those snaps!
There are a lot of different kinds of construction glue. Would have been nice to see the different ones. That being said, I love this video.
I feel like the surface finish has a lot to do with how good the glue holds. Something like oak with a ton of texture and pores combined with a good runny wet wood glue (water based to open up the pores too) would hold 2x as well as on a freshly jointed maple face which is ultra hard, and smooth and non porous.
that is something that i noticed too, it makes a difference if your wood is freshly cut or sanded vs case hardended. or dusty, etc.
I'm really surprised that the PL performed as poorly as it did! Thanks for the testing.
Interesting test. I know what I'll be looking for in future (depending on whether I am using hard or soft wood).
Matthias, you are a genius. :) real inquisitive scientist. :)
Just out of interest I'd love to see a dial indicator on that structural post to see how much it flexes when your doing the tests. Obviously wouldn't impact the result but its fascinating to see how much 'solid' things actually move!
this video is awesome, I love how well documented it is. would be cool if you could do a video of different woods to see their durability as well. been wondering durability between domestic and imported birch and the refinished birch, so many options out there.
Great video, never would have thought CA would have done that well.
Real world feedback.
Gorilla foaming glue doesn't hold up in the humid Texas Gulf Coast climate. I used it to repair part of a fence picket (the top piece broke off due to a knot and a utility line worker). It lasted 3-4 years before the glue failed and the wood again became loose. I cleaned it the best I could and used Tight Bond III and so far (4+ years) its holding.
Matthias you’re a much more stringent experimenter than project farm, and you’re easier to listen to. Keep these coming dude I trust your opinion more
We're gonna test that.
Well done sir !
Cool, I was waiting for this video
TB3 is still my favourite as a general use wood glue. I've never been a fan of WB or LePage in the past. Gorilla glue always worked as a "repair it now, not repair it right" sort of solution. Good to have around in emergencies but certainly not a woodworker's staple, in my humble opinion. Just like construction adhesive it's great at dissimilar material bonding for funky applications.
The thing that stands out the most is that the normal cure two-part epoxy is weaker in your tests than the 5 min.
I guess your data might warrant looking into LePage again. Thanks for sharing, good sir!
Thanks for that information. Very interesting. 👍
nice and interesting test!! Thanks!!would it make a difference if the test machine was pushing from other directions? for example, from the inside towards the outside (or the other way around) or along the glued piece? are glued pieces commonly stressed along these directions in usual woodwork?
As a retired custom furniture/cabinet maker, I've used a lot of glue, and I'm still doing some woodworking. I got a kick out of how your "test" came out compared to my favorites. For ME, construction adhesive really hasn't been all that strong, and my two by far favorite woodworking glues are, Gorilla wood glue and Tite bond 3! Looks like we are on the same wav length! lol SR
My favorite is titebond white all the time. I wonder how that would compare to other glues
@@marcelo403polo2 Titebond has been my go to for home audio projects for years, this makes me want to try out the GG to see how that works out. I’ve also used construction adhesive for a few larger 30-40 cubic feet enclosures and I’ve found that it’s got a long set time so positioning awkward pieces was always easy. It fills gaps great and it sticks to most any surfaces + angles.
@@Noughtta
Being that it's formulated for structural use, I wonder if construction adhesive has more give to accommodate building flex without cracking. If so, that give might have an impact on the acoustic properties of the enclosures.
Titebond 2 is my go-to, especially if you need something that sets up quick and for most interior projects.. Titebond 3 for exterior stuff or when you need a longer working time!!! All the other choices are garbage except the cheap "wood glues" which are fine for most DIY/weekend warrior stuff. Construction adhesive is just that. Construction adhesive. Yes it will hold but no where near a real wood glue. My fav construction adhesive is probably Sika adhesive, the gooey PL stuff is pretty good too but I'll always grab a tube of Sika before anything else.
Any chance for an impact type test next? I feel like most failures of well constructed pieces are going to be sudden shock more than gradual loading
I was thinking the same. In particular, I think this is where super glue would suffer, because it's just so rigid compared to some of the other glues.
Interesting test. I just watched Project Farm and the Elmer's Max and Titebond 3 came out on top but he didn't test as many as you did. Great job on the testing 👍
Somehow this manages to be both a very satisfying and very dramatic video, watching all of those breaks.
Gorilla wood glue it is then! These testing videos are fascinating, Matthias.
i've been watching you for about 4 years now
inspired to do some tinkering, but as i live in a city, i can't have a workshop
one day, i'll get a 3d printer and actually start doing tinkering like you do
keep up the good work!
-some 17 year old
Your previous video where you experienced the bridle joint glue failures had me wondering...was it really a glue *failure*, or was it glue *starvation*? With the testing here, you just did a single face joint, which allowed getting a nice even layer of glue between the pieces before clamping. But with a bridle joint, or even more so with a box joint, you have to slide the pieces together during assembly, so it's not really an apples-to-apples comparison. I have often wondered if having a tight-fitting joint before adding glue just ends up scraping all the glue out of the joint during assembly. Your bridle joint tests where it appeared there wasn't any glue applied after they failed seemed to reinforce that theory. What might be an interesting set of tests would be to try bridle joints with varying clearances and use the same glue for each to see if the problem is that you are pushing all the glue out rather than the strength of the glue itself. And if so, what is the optimum clearance before the glue layer becomes too brittle and weak due to thickness?
Interesting point. Matthias once said of the foaming Gorilla Glue, _“I_ _guess_ _it's_ _a_ _good_ _glue_ _to_ _expand_ _into_ _inaccurate_ _joints,_ _but_ _I_ _prefer_ _to_ _just_ _make_ _my_ _joints_ _so_ _that_ _they_ _are_ _accurate.”_ If Matthias is accurate to the point of nearly zero clearance, it wouldn't be surprising if he scraped the glue out of bridle joints.
Matthias, great tests. Thanks! Are you going to stay with Lapage for soft woods because it’s cheaper than Tightbond?
I was looking forward to the "running jump onto a shelf" testing technique :-)
you can tell matthias is a thorough and attentive lovemaker
Gotta love empirical evidence. I've used Titebond III for a long time and will probably continue since I'm very familiar with it's dry times for big glue-ups. However, for small, quick projects I've started using CA glue and it's a wonder.
Looking at your videos of the "glue failures" situations (as opposed to when the wood itself is cracking and splintering), it looks like the specific failure most of the time is in the adhesion of the glue to the wood surfaces. I would conjecture that CA glue is superior because its lower viscosity and thinner nature allows some amount of penetration into the depth of the wood, rather than just staying on the surface, thus forming more of a 3-dimensional bonding zone between the two pieces of wood. Think penetration in metal welds as an analogy. If this is indeed the case then it would be very interesting to see if macroscopically roughing up the mating surfaces, to make the bond zone thicker, could increase bond strength with some of the weaker adhesives.
Brilliant man!
I use tight bond 3, mostly because I remember it holding up well in strength tests and exposure to moisture/elements. The downside is it dries darker and is harder to clean off of wood wet than a lot of other glues. I would be interested to see how gorilla wood glue holds up to water or moisture/temperature. Might be a worthwhile switch if I can get it in a jug like tightbond.
Great to know! I bought a big jug of Titebond I (the one with red packaging) and it seems to never really go bad, similar to your Lepage.
I wonder if it's possible to somehow test strength of a joint after a long period of time. Probably wouldn't have any relevant samples, though.
Great video
Now this is good shit! Beats project farm. I can't think of any other woodworking products for you to test though.
And you don't end up with a headache from the incessant prattle.