So just to clarify, you have the overhead lights and the led niche lights on the same switch? You just have a romex line coming from the overhead light down to the power supply or did you run it from the switch? I appreciate the video!
Thanks for the question, 14/2 romex power to the switch, then to the overhead light, and then down to the junction for the LED power supply. Hope this helps.
I would always make sure to have it wired to a GFCI protected circuit. Low-voltage power supplies are not all made the same way, and may create a false sense of safety. Many switched-mode ones (like phone chargers and the laptop ones) are not galvanically decoupled/isolated from the mains, which means they may send line voltage through when they do fail. This may not be a high-risk issue in dry environments but definitely becomes one in a shower stall. Keep safe, people!
Thanks for the thoughtful comment, I just so happen to repurpose my old bathroom receptacle circuit, which was a 15 Amp GFCI circuit for my lighting circuit. I upgraded the bath receptacles to 20 Amps, so the GFCI was available for my lighting in and out of the shower.
Dude, 5000K? Accent lights should be warm so they're flattering to skin tones. I always tell people the ONLY place appropriate for lighting with that temperature is doctor's offices.
Thanks for the feedback and comments, I normally use 3000 K lighting in other living spaces, but wanted to have brighter lighting in the bathroom so I went with 5000 K. I am happy with it, but it may not be for everyone. I liked it so much I changed out bulbs in the secondary bath to 5000K too.
@@richofalltrades1 So, I. understand wanting brighter in your space, but raising the color TEMPERATURE is not the same thing as raising the BRIGHTNESS. It's a bigger number, true - but what you really want to be looking at is the output of your light strip in LUMENS.
Thanks man for actually giving the part list as well! Great video
Glad I could help.
So just to clarify, you have the overhead lights and the led niche lights on the same switch? You just have a romex line coming from the overhead light down to the power supply or did you run it from the switch? I appreciate the video!
Thanks for the question, 14/2 romex power to the switch, then to the overhead light, and then down to the junction for the LED power supply. Hope this helps.
Great video. Thanks for part list
Thanks for the feedback. Glad it was useful.
Thanks Rich, do you know if this will work with a dimmer? I want to run the power off the overhead light which will be on a dimmer.
Thanks for the question, I would think so, as long as you use a light/ dimmer switch that is rated for led lights.
I would always make sure to have it wired to a GFCI protected circuit.
Low-voltage power supplies are not all made the same way, and may create a false sense of safety.
Many switched-mode ones (like phone chargers and the laptop ones) are not galvanically decoupled/isolated from the mains, which means they may send line voltage through when they do fail. This may not be a high-risk issue in dry environments but definitely becomes one in a shower stall.
Keep safe, people!
Thanks for the thoughtful comment, I just so happen to repurpose my old bathroom receptacle circuit, which was a 15 Amp GFCI circuit for my lighting circuit. I upgraded the bath receptacles to 20 Amps, so the GFCI was available for my lighting in and out of the shower.
Want use color changing lights
Color changing lights could be fun. I just kept it simple.
Is this a dimmable power supply?
Thanks for the question, no this is not specifically dimmable.
Dude, 5000K? Accent lights should be warm so they're flattering to skin tones. I always tell people the ONLY place appropriate for lighting with that temperature is doctor's offices.
Thanks for the feedback and comments, I normally use 3000 K lighting in other living spaces, but wanted to have brighter lighting in the bathroom so I went with 5000 K. I am happy with it, but it may not be for everyone. I liked it so much I changed out bulbs in the secondary bath to 5000K too.
@@richofalltrades1 So, I. understand wanting brighter in your space, but raising the color TEMPERATURE is not the same thing as raising the BRIGHTNESS. It's a bigger number, true - but what you really want to be looking at is the output of your light strip in LUMENS.
Thanks for setting me straight, lumens for brightness, Kelvin for color temperature. I like it cool and bright😎.
@@richofalltrades1 Cheers, Rich!