I'm sold! Working on a remodel and adding a niche. Wife thinks I'm crazy for this extra added cost but I think it's worth it. Thanks for posting this detailed instructional video.
Coach, nice job. Here's a tip i learned a long time ago. When soldering wires like this, stagger the connections by an inch or so. This technique keeps the diameter of the total connection smaller and more flexible when going through holes and around corners. Great video.
This looks amazing. A tip I learned from an old timer is to make the cuts offset on the wire so one long meets a short and the short meets a long so the wires can never touch and are less bulky.
I usually do that on almost all of my projects on auto mode. Even though it may seem like a common sense idea, you'd be surprised how many people don't do it. I learned to do this from a mistake i made when i tried to reuse a computer power supply for another temporary project and when the wires touched it made a huge mess. Thank you for sharing.
You can get a stainless steel strip these days that looks like a U shaped tile trim that the led sits in and a frosted plastic strip that covers over it, this gives a very pro install look. On LEDs if the polarity for the DC to them is wrong you don't have to worry about blowing them up as they are a diode and just won't work if you get +v & -v wrong
from one professional to another I love the fact that you are anal about safety and aesthetics and go far and beyond to get the added insurance when it come to peoples lives as well...keep doing what you do.
Nice work Isaac, as an engineer I like it when people point out the specs and requirements like the IC ratings, otherwise people will go to Target and buy Christmas LEDS! BTW I'm the same way with the wall plate screws. Good job on accurately sizing the switch box cutout. I find so many contractors who installed switch boxes, and made the box cutout drywall holes too big, now the box tabs have no drywall meat to grab onto. Also if anyone is planning on installing LEDs like this, a word of caution here, make sure your niche back wall was tiled perfect with no lippage. With LEDs shining straight down the back wall of the niche like that, it will shine an ugly spotlight on every flaw and lippage tile you have, creating harsh shadows.
I really like this video, I’m a general contractor in California, my customer asked me for lights on the niches, and I was figuring out how to do it, but your idea helps me a lot to get it done, the schlutter profile it’s a great idea, thanks a a lot
That shower looks awesome and with LEDs that just makes it that much better! Great job! Thanks for showing how to correctly install the new drywall switch box. Very good to know info! God bless.
They are usually oriented vertically, the practical reason (mostly for outdoor installation) being that waterdrops will slide off the screws in stead of getting caught.
one of the first things my j-man taught me when i started. sadly everyone got laid off about 2 years after i started, and i would have to say i have never worked with an electrician that taught me so much and was as good at explaining things as he was. wish i could have stuck with him until i became a journeyman.
That’s awesome Isaac thanks for sharing. So I just installed one similar, what I did different is this: I pulled power from a GFI outlet (for extra protection) and instead of a regular dimmer switch the LED lights are controlled by a sensor switch that is also dimmable. Lastly I had to put the converter inside a closet because where I live the winters and summers make the temperature in the attic extreme. I am going to try the Schluter trim next time. Thanks for sharing
This is a nice install. I may try a light on my next shower. Thanks for the idea. One thing I like to do when soldering, I stagger my connections so they do not make the joint fat.
To everyone watching this video, this guy is a professional and knows what he is doing and I guarantee he didn’t learn this watching a RUclips video. Unless you have experience working with electrical equipment and knowledge of the dangers associated with this, do yourself a favor and just call this guy to do it for you or your local electrical professional.
Absolutely gorgeous... I love your dedication to the profession, one of the most honest attitudes I've seen in tradesmen. Keep up the good work. One day I'll grow a pair, find some time off, and get the funds to redo my bathroom! One day!
Good job! Another thing to mention is to be careful that the tile is nice and flat so once the light skates across the tiled plane it could enhance any discrepancies. This looks good; I am inspired. Thank you!
Most electricians don't want to do the small little jobs. My customers tell me they can't get them to even come out. I just installed a chandelier on a 17ft high ceiling because the electricians the customer called had no interest. One of them came, looked at where it was, and said, NO THANKS. So god created handymen. Took me two hours and cost her $200. We were both happy. And the electrician was happy too I assume because he didn't have to do it.
At 6:50, 120VAC will not cause interference with low voltage LED lighting. Shielded cable only helps in data transmission or analog signals in high noise environments. Running low voltage DC for LED lighting near 120VAC will have zero effect, the induced currents are far too low to do anything to the LED lighting.
Yup you're correct. Also 12V isn't low voltage, neither is it just low power. You can run several amps and it would be considered high power. signals like LVDS (example hdmi) are considered low voltages. It depends on the rise of falling time of the signals that will impact the adjacent wires or traces. All in all great video with the install though 👌.
Thanks for the good chuckle, there will be some degree of 60Hz noise on the DC line, but meh, for some pesky LED who would care for few hundres millivolts of ac noise.
Most DIY lighting stuff that I have seen for permanent fixture applications such as this use blocks of polished acrylic glued/sealed in place, with the led strip hidden on the other side. The acrylic diffuses the light so it all looks smooth, and also makes it so that the structure can stay in-tact while the led’s can later be replaced if needed. So, in this example, instead of running the led strip through the side of the niche, you would instead put like a 1”x1”x8” polished acrylic block up into the top back of the niche so that the top of the block is sticking up through the niche. You’d then glue/seal it in place. Then you would would stick the led strip to the top of the block so that it is shining down through the block and into the niche. Preferably, there would be an access panel on the other side of the wall to change out the led’s if the ever burn out. Then you would have a permanent and sealed structure in the shower itself, with no electrical components tied to it, while also having it both lighted and accessible for maintenance. The same methodology could be use for other cases as well, such as an acrylic shelf within the niche with the acrylic sticking through the sides of the niche into the wall and the led’s being on both sides shining into the shelf so it has a soft lighted glow, in a lighted acrylic chair rail, etc. Try RUclips’ing “led acrylic” or something like that for ideas. There’s also fiber optics that some very high end contractors use, with thick fiber optic cords that split into like a hundred that they then place into concrete work, with a thing in the attic that shines light into it through rotating diffuser lenses, so that it looks like stars are twinkling in the concrete when it’s turned on. I watch too much RUclips lol
I also appreciate you sharing your idea. Because i was watching the video and thinking what if the led strip adhesive fails, which is more common problem than a burn out. A clear acrylic strip could potentially be applied after what he did in the video to add security and extra protection, just a thin film of acrylic as you suggested would be sufficient to hold it up in case the led strip wants to fall or rest on something. Probably wouldn't be hard to remove later and his method still works because the wirng is there and is easy to repair or replace going up into the attic or what have you. Yes we definitely watch too much RUclips
I’m attempting this in our shower, but it is a retrofit job and therefore I bought a waterproof led channel that can be slid in and then use some color matching caulk to “seal” it in place. Then if anything happens to the led strip I can just score the caulk and pull out the channel. Pretty close to being done, but I’m a novice at soldering so having difficulties between working in the shower and the precision needed as I have a rgb strip which requires four wires.
I wanted to say I liked how you cut the nail portion of the single gang box,without damaging the drywall,good trick,I may come from a receptacle to the dimmer ,and swap it w a GFCI,for added protection
@@TileCoach yeah,I'm no expert,just thinking it would protect from the 120v driver and back,maybe that electrician guy will chime in about it.are you still sourcing from flexled
Excellent video! This was super helpful when I was doing my shower niche. One thing I realized pretty late is if you run that 2 strand wire, you cannot connect a RGB (multicolor) LED light system. I realized this the painful way as my wire is pretty much routed all the way around and it is more of a permanent thing now. Please research into the right wire type to run if you plan on using multicolor LED strip as that requires 4 strands.
So this video is from 5 years ago . . were soderless connectors not available then or is there a reason you opted not to use them (as most other jobs call for them)? Is it because sodering allows the wires to pull through or due to a better guard against moisture? My install is in new construction, so everything will be accessible from the rear wall.
Sometimes the best solutions are right in your face (or out there in your construction trailer) and you never see them. I've been looking for a way to incorporate LED lighting into showers and I never thought about just using a Schluter profile.... thanks!!
Now if you got some individually addressable LED strip you could pair it with an arduino flashed with WLED software and then have wifi controllable, dim-able and color adjustable (with custom scenes you could set) niche lighting.
Smart switch in closet or shelly device in main switch on main bathroom or shower switch can turn on niche wirelessly, or niche can turn on/off with motion or as a night light on schedule. No need to go into closet to turn on. There is also a solder/heat shrink that solders and heat shrinks in one step.
Looks good and great idea ... but if this is a genuine site job, those solder joints (especially the one that you couldn't get the heatshrink over!) could have been better. I'd also recommend testing connectivity before insulating and fitting/sealing.
Great video! 2 Questions... 1. Do you have links to both the lights and Power Supply? 2) If you have multiple locations in the same area can you use the same Power Supply for all of the locations. Thank you.
If using a transformer that does not have a built in J-box, do I need to place the transformer and the small LED Wi-Fi controller inside a junction box in the attic, or just where the wires get connected? The tqqaqransformers I am using do not have built-in enclosures for the wire connections. Great videos btw my dude! Definitely one of my favorite go-to channels when I have questions. Keep it up sir!
Is the Schluter Deco-SG profile height 5/16''? 3/8, 7/16? I am thinking if the tile is 1/4'' thick then the 5/16'' profile is adequate? I take it the width should be 9/16'' and not 5/32" to accomodate the LED strip? Can you share the exact schluter model and specs used? Thanks
This is also an excellent way to accentuate a terrible DIY mosaic tile install to show all the nasty lipage 😄 I might suggest a dab of dielectric grease directly on each solder connection prior to applying the heat shrink. Might be overkill, but wouldn’t hurt any.
How do you go about replacing the string if it malfunctions or the bulbs die? Also, any recommendations ways to place the strip with a unique shape like an arch?
Curious of the failure rate on this method? We love the look, but have concerns about reliability and how often repair/replacement is needed. Anyone have info on this after 12 months? 3 years? longer?
I put in some amazon outdoor lights for someone... lots of them on all their outdoor stairs. Its been 3 years and still working. They thought they had them set to come on at dusk and turn off at dawn with the programmable wifi... but when I came back a year later to do other things, discovered they were just on all the time, just hard to tell during the daytime. lol So they ran for about the first year 24/7 and the next two years on all night every night... and still working.
If I’m NOT using a dimmer switch, what LED output would give a soft, gentle glow? A glaring, bright white light is not my goal for niche illumination. THANK YOU!
Tile coach You have great learning videos. A suggestion for this video for us DiYs and even some very experienced tile guys Would be nice to mention that your video shows the niche ALREADY tiled. For us inexperienced ones that are using a prefab niche, and glue the tile edging BEFORE we set the back tile it creates a problem when the back tile hides the lite and we have to start making corrections. Thanks
There probably is GFCI on everything going into that bathroom. The first plug receptical going into any well wired bathroom that has the hot line...used for the whole room is usually a GFCI switch. All the bathrooms I have remodeled that are 20 years old or newer are already done that way
Beautiful tile job and nich design. Also a really well made tutorial. Very clear and concise, while not skipping any important details. 2 negs,. I agree with others about the glue on those strips. They always seem to fail for me. The one thing that bugged me was putting the switch in the closet... That's just gross
Thats a BIG niche .u need a motion sensor light switch when ya get in the bathroom..Then you set it ,and forget it, with a little heat under the tile....(From Cont Tile. 20 yr setter..JS) Beautiful work 2
I just installed a DVLV-603-P-BL, as you did at ~18:20. I do not have the LEDs, so I measured AC voltage. The numbers make no sense. Have you ever measured these and if so, could you share?
13:37 I would advise in using something else to hold it up. The self adhesive stuff wears out Super fast. Every strip ive ever used lasted maybe a month before it just wasnt tacky anymore and let go of whatever surface it was on. You may have a tiny bit more luck with the machined finish on that metal, but Id still recommend adding a bit of something to make sure it stays for years to come. OR until the home owner decides to change it, likely soon when they realize they can have a 4 wire DRGB with app control and millions of colors and functions. Make it flash to the music ect. Those are standard white.
I'm very familiar with led lights and you should be putting in a Ip66 or higher rated strip. And make sure their Samsung Diodes. Cheap diodes burn out quickly and lose over half their intensity after a short time. Also remember the driver that powers them puts off heat and should be kept where they have some air to cool it if possible. I'm new to tiling but I know my Leds 😂
is there a link to specific strip installed? the ones im seeing online have a transformer box that plugs in and i will need to be installing same way as in video. thanks
Nice job. Been watching a few of your videos and u been doing a good job. U seem like a good and humble person. Lol, but please bro, change that Milwaukee drive bit . That bit sux and i can't handle see people using it. Sorry, had to point that out. Seen it in a couple of your videos 😁
@@TileCoach from my experience, dewalt is the best one. Dewalt were made to break instead of stripping. Milwaukee and makita are the same. They are hard to break and they will strip the screw . I buy the small Milwaukee bit holder, then i buy one box of dewalt #2 Phillips bit tips. They are around $7 @ home depot. They come 30 in the box. They last me almost a year and i use my drill a lot. U want them to break instead of stripping.
what a blessing to find your video, I was just looking endlessly on any video that would show how to install led light strips. thank you so much for your effort!
I'm sold! Working on a remodel and adding a niche. Wife thinks I'm crazy for this extra added cost but I think it's worth it. Thanks for posting this detailed instructional video.
Coach, nice job. Here's a tip i learned a long time ago. When soldering wires like this, stagger the connections by an inch or so. This technique keeps the diameter of the total connection smaller and more flexible when going through holes and around corners. Great video.
This looks amazing. A tip I learned from an old timer is to make the cuts offset on the wire so one long meets a short and the short meets a long so the wires can never touch and are less bulky.
I usually do that on almost all of my projects on auto mode. Even though it may seem like a common sense idea, you'd be surprised how many people don't do it. I learned to do this from a mistake i made when i tried to reuse a computer power supply for another temporary project and when the wires touched it made a huge mess. Thank you for sharing.
I was going to write that :)
THANKYOU, finally someone showing how to HARD WIRE THESE IN! I'm so sick of seeing people use 100 plugs!
You can get a stainless steel strip these days that looks like a U shaped tile trim that the led sits in and a frosted plastic strip that covers over it, this gives a very pro install look. On LEDs if the polarity for the DC to them is wrong you don't have to worry about blowing them up as they are a diode and just won't work if you get +v & -v wrong
Can you send a link my chance
Came to say the same. Also love your username lol
from one professional to another I love the fact that you are anal about safety and aesthetics and go far and beyond to get the added insurance when it come to peoples lives as well...keep doing what you do.
Anal ?
If you have to tell people you're a professional 😂😂
Nice work Isaac, as an engineer I like it when people point out the specs and requirements like the IC ratings, otherwise people will go to Target and buy Christmas LEDS! BTW I'm the same way with the wall plate screws. Good job on accurately sizing the switch box cutout. I find so many contractors who installed switch boxes, and made the box cutout drywall holes too big, now the box tabs have no drywall meat to grab onto. Also if anyone is planning on installing LEDs like this, a word of caution here, make sure your niche back wall was tiled perfect with no lippage. With LEDs shining straight down the back wall of the niche like that, it will shine an ugly spotlight on every flaw and lippage tile you have, creating harsh shadows.
😂😂😂
I really like this video, I’m a general contractor in California, my customer asked me for lights on the niches, and I was figuring out how to do it, but your idea helps me a lot to get it done, the schlutter profile it’s a great idea, thanks a a lot
Just don't 😂😂😂😂
That shower looks awesome and with LEDs that just makes it that much better! Great job! Thanks for showing how to correctly install the new drywall switch box. Very good to know info! God bless.
Isaac. You're a good man paying attention to those screws in a cover plate. Surprisingly it does add to the over all aesthetics.
They are usually oriented vertically, the practical reason (mostly for outdoor installation) being that waterdrops will slide off the screws in stead of getting caught.
@@Null-- well everyone knows that.
one of the first things my j-man taught me when i started. sadly everyone got laid off about 2 years after i started, and i would have to say i have never worked with an electrician that taught me so much and was as good at explaining things as he was. wish i could have stuck with him until i became a journeyman.
That’s awesome Isaac thanks for sharing. So I just installed one similar, what I did different is this: I pulled power from a GFI outlet (for extra protection) and instead of a regular dimmer switch the LED lights are controlled by a sensor switch that is also dimmable. Lastly I had to put the converter inside a closet because where I live the winters and summers make the temperature in the attic extreme. I am going to try the Schluter trim next time. Thanks for sharing
This is a nice install. I may try a light on my next shower. Thanks for the idea. One thing I like to do when soldering, I stagger my connections so they do not make the joint fat.
Always
To everyone watching this video, this guy is a professional and knows what he is doing and I guarantee he didn’t learn this watching a RUclips video. Unless you have experience working with electrical equipment and knowledge of the dangers associated with this, do yourself a favor and just call this guy to do it for you or your local electrical professional.
I was curious as to why the closet switch was the location, but I think I answered all possible reasons why… anyone care to chime in
Absolutely gorgeous... I love your dedication to the profession, one of the most honest attitudes I've seen in tradesmen. Keep up the good work. One day I'll grow a pair, find some time off, and get the funds to redo my bathroom! One day!
Good job! Another thing to mention is to be careful that the tile is nice and flat so once the light skates across the tiled plane it could enhance any discrepancies. This looks good; I am inspired. Thank you!
As a licensed electrician I usually cringe at non-electricians doing electrical work but in this case you did a fantastic job. Excellent work o tile!
@@TileCoach no ground on closet switch?
As a professional Tile setter I cringe when home owners try their own projects. And then I have to swallow my own toung when they ask me how they did.
Grizzly do you cringe when it comes out nicer than your tile jobs?
Diet Coke your life must suck being a hater
Most electricians don't want to do the small little jobs. My customers tell me they can't get them to even come out. I just installed a chandelier on a 17ft high ceiling because the electricians the customer called had no interest. One of them came, looked at where it was, and said, NO THANKS.
So god created handymen. Took me two hours and cost her $200. We were both happy. And the electrician was happy too I assume because he didn't have to do it.
I have used the IP67 strips many times, they work great and don't come loose.
Where did you get it from and does it have a shet (cover) waterproof covering like shown by Isaac?
This is really helpful for a project I'm working on, thanks for sharing
At 6:50, 120VAC will not cause interference with low voltage LED lighting. Shielded cable only helps in data transmission or analog signals in high noise environments. Running low voltage DC for LED lighting near 120VAC will have zero effect, the induced currents are far too low to do anything to the LED lighting.
Yup you're correct. Also 12V isn't low voltage, neither is it just low power. You can run several amps and it would be considered high power. signals like LVDS (example hdmi) are considered low voltages. It depends on the rise of falling time of the signals that will impact the adjacent wires or traces. All in all great video with the install though 👌.
Thanks for the good chuckle, there will be some degree of 60Hz noise on the DC line, but meh, for some pesky LED who would care for few hundres millivolts of ac noise.
Most DIY lighting stuff that I have seen for permanent fixture applications such as this use blocks of polished acrylic glued/sealed in place, with the led strip hidden on the other side. The acrylic diffuses the light so it all looks smooth, and also makes it so that the structure can stay in-tact while the led’s can later be replaced if needed. So, in this example, instead of running the led strip through the side of the niche, you would instead put like a 1”x1”x8” polished acrylic block up into the top back of the niche so that the top of the block is sticking up through the niche. You’d then glue/seal it in place. Then you would would stick the led strip to the top of the block so that it is shining down through the block and into the niche. Preferably, there would be an access panel on the other side of the wall to change out the led’s if the ever burn out. Then you would have a permanent and sealed structure in the shower itself, with no electrical components tied to it, while also having it both lighted and accessible for maintenance. The same methodology could be use for other cases as well, such as an acrylic shelf within the niche with the acrylic sticking through the sides of the niche into the wall and the led’s being on both sides shining into the shelf so it has a soft lighted glow, in a lighted acrylic chair rail, etc. Try RUclips’ing “led acrylic” or something like that for ideas. There’s also fiber optics that some very high end contractors use, with thick fiber optic cords that split into like a hundred that they then place into concrete work, with a thing in the attic that shines light into it through rotating diffuser lenses, so that it looks like stars are twinkling in the concrete when it’s turned on. I watch too much RUclips lol
I like the ideas you present in your comments. It fuels the imagination. 🤔😁
I also appreciate you sharing your idea. Because i was watching the video and thinking what if the led strip adhesive fails, which is more common problem than a burn out. A clear acrylic strip could potentially be applied after what he did in the video to add security and extra protection, just a thin film of acrylic as you suggested would be sufficient to hold it up in case the led strip wants to fall or rest on something. Probably wouldn't be hard to remove later and his method still works because the wirng is there and is easy to repair or replace going up into the attic or what have you. Yes we definitely watch too much RUclips
I’m attempting this in our shower, but it is a retrofit job and therefore I bought a waterproof led channel that can be slid in and then use some color matching caulk to “seal” it in place. Then if anything happens to the led strip I can just score the caulk and pull out the channel. Pretty close to being done, but I’m a novice at soldering so having difficulties between working in the shower and the precision needed as I have a rgb strip which requires four wires.
Is it necessary to have gfci protection for the niche light? Also could you explain where you hide the 12v electrical box please?
Thanks for the video. This is so smooth. I was wondering how you recessed the strip right before you showed the Schluter strip.
Super clean finish.
It is a clean finish, one I can be envious of.
Show the strip better
I wanted to say I liked how you cut the nail portion of the single gang box,without damaging the drywall,good trick,I may come from a receptacle to the dimmer ,and swap it w a GFCI,for added protection
@@TileCoach yeah,I'm no expert,just thinking it would protect from the 120v driver and back,maybe that electrician guy will chime in about it.are you still sourcing from flexled
Isaac Ostrom wet, bare feet, standing in water, and able to touch a light fixture? Better be safe than sorry.
Excellent video! This was super helpful when I was doing my shower niche. One thing I realized pretty late is if you run that 2 strand wire, you cannot connect a RGB (multicolor) LED light system. I realized this the painful way as my wire is pretty much routed all the way around and it is more of a permanent thing now. Please research into the right wire type to run if you plan on using multicolor LED strip as that requires 4 strands.
So this video is from 5 years ago . . were soderless connectors not available then or is there a reason you opted not to use them (as most other jobs call for them)? Is it because sodering allows the wires to pull through or due to a better guard against moisture? My install is in new construction, so everything will be accessible from the rear wall.
What is the model of the transformer and where did you purchase it? Also, did you use IP65 or IP67 LED strip?
i to am in the trades and its a must to put plate covers screws vert . good job
How does the adhesive hold up through time in that environment?
Hey Isaac where can I get the transformer?
I am doing a project that includes a shower niche light. This was really helpful. Appreciate you!!!
Beautiful broth. Nice job
Sometimes the best solutions are right in your face (or out there in your construction trailer) and you never see them. I've been looking for a way to incorporate LED lighting into showers and I never thought about just using a Schluter profile.... thanks!!
Ok ... this is just an insanely perfect video, start to finish! THANK YOU FOR SHARING THIS!!!
Do you have links to the products used in this video?
I placed the links and it got deleted by someone
@@derrickd5 hi derrick could you send links agin?
@@DarkWarfreak got them from here. Message them before this link is removed. They will help you on what you need for your project
@@derrickd5 how can I get the link for the led and power supply?
I need the products. Is it possible to please get them? Much appreciated.
Now if you got some individually addressable LED strip you could pair it with an arduino flashed with WLED software and then have wifi controllable, dim-able and color adjustable (with custom scenes you could set) niche lighting.
can you share the link of the products you used please? And thanks for this video
Smart switch in closet or shelly device in main switch on main bathroom or shower switch can turn on niche wirelessly, or niche can turn on/off with motion or as a night light on schedule. No need to go into closet to turn on. There is also a solder/heat shrink that solders and heat shrinks in one step.
Love! Do you have links for products used in this video?
Looks good and great idea ... but if this is a genuine site job, those solder joints (especially the one that you couldn't get the heatshrink over!) could have been better. I'd also recommend testing connectivity before insulating and fitting/sealing.
Great video! 2 Questions... 1. Do you have links to both the lights and Power Supply? 2) If you have multiple locations in the same area can you use the same Power Supply for all of the locations. Thank you.
This niche video is equally as informative as the original. Thanks again Isaac!
the original?
@@Winwithmarquise He has another video on this topic done sometime earlier
What transformer and led light strip did you use and where did you buy them? I'm looking to do the same thing. Thank you
I'd wire it all up and test it before peeline the adjesive and tucking it into the channel, but thats me.
If using a transformer that does not have a built in J-box, do I need to place the transformer and the small LED Wi-Fi controller inside a junction box in the attic, or just where the wires get connected? The tqqaqransformers I am using do not have built-in enclosures for the wire connections.
Great videos btw my dude! Definitely one of my favorite go-to channels when I have questions. Keep it up sir!
Does anyone know what products Isaac is using here in this video? Specifically the Strip lighting brand and Transformer brand?
Outstanding video - all useful information and no steps skipped - thank you! (just subbed)
Is the Schluter Deco-SG profile height 5/16''? 3/8, 7/16? I am thinking if the tile is 1/4'' thick then the 5/16'' profile is adequate? I take it the width should be 9/16'' and not 5/32" to accomodate the LED strip? Can you share the exact schluter model and specs used? Thanks
I had the same question. Did you ever find out?
Do you have to purchase the cord going to the transformer? I have romex already. I’m talking the other wire.
This is also an excellent way to accentuate a terrible DIY mosaic tile install to show all the nasty lipage 😄
I might suggest a dab of dielectric grease directly on each solder connection prior to applying the heat shrink. Might be overkill, but wouldn’t hurt any.
How do you go about replacing the string if it malfunctions or the bulbs die? Also, any recommendations ways to place the strip with a unique shape like an arch?
those lutron have a adjustment on the side ,for fine tuning the dimmer function ,the instructions tell you about it
good work Issac do u have a amazon link for that specific led light? thx in advance
Curious of the failure rate on this method? We love the look, but have concerns about reliability and how often repair/replacement is needed. Anyone have info on this after 12 months? 3 years? longer?
I put in some amazon outdoor lights for someone... lots of them on all their outdoor stairs. Its been 3 years and still working. They thought they had them set to come on at dusk and turn off at dawn with the programmable wifi... but when I came back a year later to do other things, discovered they were just on all the time, just hard to tell during the daytime. lol So they ran for about the first year 24/7 and the next two years on all night every night... and still working.
Just want to say you do a great job explaining everything. Thank you so much! I'm a big fan.
Question: What exact schluters is needed? I have tried to find the "SG 110 Profile" from Schluters as mentioned on the video, but cannot find it.
Deco SG
@@TileCoach Thank you! But what width? There doesn’t seem to be a standard size…
I have already opened up and trying to get the project done. What Schluter model and what size should I get and where can I get it
@tilecoach what is the width of the LED strip and the width of the Schluter SG 110 ? There are different widths for each.
If I’m NOT using a dimmer switch, what LED output would give a soft, gentle glow? A glaring, bright white light is not my goal for niche illumination. THANK YOU!
Love watching your videos! I even make sure to watch the ads 😂 I wish you were in Florida so you could redo my shower.
- A GEM ! ! ! Very nicely done. Adds a level of class. Thanx 4 sharing.
Tile coach
You have great learning videos. A suggestion for this video for us DiYs and even some very experienced tile guys
Would be nice to mention that your video shows the niche ALREADY tiled. For us inexperienced ones that are using a prefab niche, and glue the tile edging BEFORE we set the back tile it creates a problem when the back tile hides the lite and we have to start making corrections.
Thanks
How did you drill the hole (off to the left) in order to feed the wires up through?
Thanks
How is the channel installed in your Niche when you float a wall, start to finish?
Is It installed over the scratch coat before you brown coat?
Any chance you could share the items you used so we can buy them also? Thanks a lot
I would think they would require a gfci on the supply to that in case of an electrical issue on the transformer.
There probably is GFCI on everything going into that bathroom. The first plug receptical going into any well wired bathroom that has the hot line...used for the whole room is usually a GFCI switch.
All the bathrooms I have remodeled that are 20 years old or newer are already done that way
I would like to know what type of switch you used for that LED PLZ IM WORKING ON MY BATHROOM
What strip you recommend?
12v makes it very safe. put it on a GFI circuit and this idea becomes 100% cool
Do you have the strip fitted into a pre cut groove or directly onto the tile?
Beautiful tile job and nich design. Also a really well made tutorial. Very clear and concise, while not skipping any important details. 2 negs,. I agree with others about the glue on those strips. They always seem to fail for me. The one thing that bugged me was putting the switch in the closet...
That's just gross
BEAUTIFUL! FYI, it is illegal for anyone but an electrician to do this in my area!
Its illegal what the current people in power are doing but they do
…time to move out of that area my friend..
On the wire, staples do not make tight, only loose snug. Can cause wire problems down the road.
Have you ever installed one for a Steam Shower appliacation? Do you know if IP65 rating on the LED strip is good enough or should I utilize IP67?
Whats the name of the tile edge with the slot for the led strip?
WHERE DID YOU GET THE TRANSFORMER FROM??
Thanks for video! Using that scluter trim to hide and protect light is a great idea!
I didn't catch from where you pass the cable?
I have a similar situation but I'm not sure how to run the wire to keep the waterproofing intact
Are there any moisture issues to worry about with the opening there in the niche? Thanks
Isaac I need your help, I can't find that Zurik EM 20 Transformer anywhere, where do you get yours
Thats a BIG niche .u need a motion sensor light switch when ya get in the bathroom..Then you set it ,and forget it, with a little heat under the tile....(From Cont Tile. 20 yr setter..JS) Beautiful work 2
Isaac Ostrom yes Lutron has one. But it has to be a certain model that can handle more than 5 amps
I just installed a DVLV-603-P-BL, as you did at ~18:20. I do not have the LEDs, so I measured AC voltage. The numbers make no sense. Have you ever measured these and if so, could you share?
13:37 I would advise in using something else to hold it up. The self adhesive stuff wears out Super fast. Every strip ive ever used lasted maybe a month before it just wasnt tacky anymore and let go of whatever surface it was on. You may have a tiny bit more luck with the machined finish on that metal, but Id still recommend adding a bit of something to make sure it stays for years to come. OR until the home owner decides to change it, likely soon when they realize they can have a 4 wire DRGB with app control and millions of colors and functions. Make it flash to the music ect. Those are standard white.
I'm very familiar with led lights and you should be putting in a Ip66 or higher rated strip. And make sure their Samsung Diodes. Cheap diodes burn out quickly and lose over half their intensity after a short time. Also remember the driver that powers them puts off heat and should be kept where they have some air to cool it if possible. I'm new to tiling but I know my Leds 😂
is there a link to specific strip installed? the ones im seeing online have a transformer box that plugs in and i will need to be installing same way as in video. thanks
Use a plastic screen roller, used for setting window screen. Woks well
Since is is a 5 year old video, has the installation requirements of the dimmer and transformer ( and location n attic) changed.
What kind of transformer did you install there for the LED lights?
How do you wire a dimmer when there is an existing single pole switch for a light and a separate single pole for the attic fan. (2-gang box already)
My apologies if you have already. I didn't go through all 264 comments.
Can you provide a parts list?
Awesome idea with the lighting.
But why didn’t you ground both switches?
Does anyone know where I can order this Schluter? Need it today! Contractor is standing by to install. Thank you all.
Our county (Beaufort, SC) says we can't do this because it's against code. Do you know how I can convince them otherwise?
good job.. I would have made 2 pigtails for the hots instead of looping the one wire, but that's just preference
Any link or photos to this shower build? Love the style.
What type of power supply would you recommend?
Is it safe to have the power supply I. The attic?
Wish I saw this before I put mine in for the pre planning 🤦♂️
Nice job. Been watching a few of your videos and u been doing a good job. U seem like a good and humble person. Lol, but please bro, change that Milwaukee drive bit . That bit sux and i can't handle see people using it. Sorry, had to point that out. Seen it in a couple of your videos 😁
@@TileCoach from my experience, dewalt is the best one. Dewalt were made to break instead of stripping. Milwaukee and makita are the same. They are hard to break and they will strip the screw . I buy the small Milwaukee bit holder, then i buy one box of dewalt #2 Phillips bit tips. They are around $7 @ home depot. They come 30 in the box. They last me almost a year and i use my drill a lot. U want them to break instead of stripping.
what a blessing to find your video, I was just looking endlessly on any video that would show how to install led light strips. thank you so much for your effort!
How did you install the tile to prepare for the backlighting?