I’ll see what I can do… maybe I’ll put together a short with the info… most of the connections are buried under the intake. If you watch the gauge video, supercharger and then I’ll post something on AF gauge etc 👍
I'm doing the same to my 97 mountaineer using a high pinion 44 out of a 77 f150 that we cut off the passenger C and moved it in several inches to get the right track width. then i will be using a 91 to 94 explorer TTB frame. James Duff makes a almost bolt on radius arm set up just for this. I have a semi floater Dana 60 out of a 69 f150 for the rear that i will just do a axle under spring swap. the stock 302 is getting swapped for a 351 using a lighting intake to make the stock upper half of the intake work. hope you have good luck with your swap.
I'm gonna do a solid axle sway on 2011 Ford Ranger FX4. I just purchase a xj Cherokee high pinion Dana 30 for $200. I'm going to actually beef it up with all high quality parts fit all out like you would do with a dana 44. But my setup is al for overlanding and trail riding
For light off road and smaller tires I think that sounds like a good plan, keep your same wheels, axle width etc. but get all the benefits of a straight axle and get rid of the car steering. Nice, if you film it send me the link I’ll add it to a playlist! 👍
@@RangerShop1 hell yeah! I definately would do that🤙🏻. Were planning out pretty much the same thing. I'm tired of breakage and limitations of what the IFS has. You can't even get a proper lift neither the reinforcements for IFS. I already have set of "5" of 33x12r15 interco AT tires in my garage. So I plan on doing a 6" lift on skyscraper coil springs, chromoly axle shafts, barnes 4wd coil spring/ shock mount brackets since the factory ones are weak on the axle, heim joints, inner c gussets, axle seals, spartan auto locker, 4.56 gears, axle sleeves for strength and also wj big brake & crossover steering. After all that's done. I'm also gonna do the spring leaf delete and do links like a JK jeep suspension. That way I could still retain my gas tank. Its the basic 2 links on each side of the vehicle to side frame with the panhard bar centered off and the shocks rear angled just like the older jeeps with coil springs/coilovers . I really think this all would work for sure💯👌🏻. Its not many videos of ford rangers have rear coil spring or rear coilover suspension swaps. But I wanna be the least to say I did it🤙🏻
Great video! Im considering axle swapping my ranger as well for all the same reasons you mentioned. Im running 33x10.5 on 2” of lift and i have hardly any wheel travel in the front, it is super stiff. I also want a selectable locker. I have considered the high pinion jeep dana 30 and installing the axle shafts from a newer dana 30 with the larger u-joints, im not sure if that would actually work though. I really like your idea though of the full width dana 44, but then i would have to use the ford 9” to get the width or bolt pattern to match. Im wanting to run ox lockers and they dont sell one for the ford 9”. Ive though about the ford 8.8 31 spline and using a c-clip eliminator kit, some will widen out the axle a little bit so it might not be noticeable and then having a machine shop double drill the shafts for the correct bolt pattern. Im really trying to avoid spacers or narrowing axles. Is there another option im missing? My truck is a full time trail rig, but it does need to be street legal/ able to drive itself places on the road. Another thought, have you considered moving the front axle forward a couple inches? Looking at my ranger, if i moved my front axle forward i could have more clearance with my fenders without raising the ride height. It would also give better entrance angles. Thanks for all the videos and information!
Might a 1987-96 F150 8.8 work? They had the 5x5.5 lugs then it would match the front Dana 44? You would still need c-clip eliminators but you could run an Ox. Love those lockers by the way! Definitely moving the axle forward… I’m not sure if an inch or two but it’s going forward. I picked up a Cherokee front driveshaft so I’ll see how that lines up if I can shift the axle forward a bit and not have a custom made front shaft that would be perfect…. We will see. Here’s a good site for checking bolt patterns… tiresglobe.com/ford-f150-lug-and-bolt-pattern/
I think for a normal truck it would have done OK, but pulling a trailer up a rocky trail was just killing the steering rack! The manual hubs did help a bunch though, I couldn’t imagine going full time with it in there. When it locks in it really locks up. 👌👍
what tire size and what power? full width axles are a no brainer these days. go grab a set of 05+ f350 axles and run with it. the cost of those axles is less then going to an ancient d44 setup. d44 cant really handle 35s that well. I am saying that when I own a stack of d44 ford stuff and have detroits and yukon chro moly shafts in one. tying yourself to jeep junk d30 is dumb. full widths are the only smart choice. huge brakes, bulletproof and CHEAPER
these arguements are the same incorrect thinking we have watched small truck guys do for 40 years. "ground clearance is better with a d30" yeah in 1 spot, but if ground clearance is a concern bolt on 35s. the d60 on a light truck is bulletproof. wider is better, it helps stability , keeps tire away from frame rubbing etc
35”, supercharged 4.0 SOHC I couldn’t find a set of decent Dana 60 for under 2000$ plus the gears, lockers, rebuild kit was all double the cost of 1/2 ton. But this is Canada where everything is crazy expensive! My HP Dana 44, 9” Axles cost me 150$, complete rebuild kit gears limited slip etc was another 1300$ HP Dana 44 has no problem with 35”, maybe you’re thinking LP Dana 44? Anyways if it breaks I’ll definitely post a video and then you can say told you so. Here’s the end truck- ruclips.net/video/2gUQZQoC8r4/видео.htmlsi=aasrA0jV8NXoAsjf
@@RangerShop1 I am Canadian. I have several 05 d60s that I have bought for as low as $200. on a d44 the axle shaft/ujoints are what pop with 35s and a locker. this is not my first rodeo and in the long run it is cheaper to go d60. I have a hpd44 here with detroit and yukons in it, still crushes 297 joints. a warn popped on it and took out the detroit. I wont polish another one of those turds :) the 05+ axles have a factory 1550 joint option, I grabbed a couple sets when they were dirt cheap on rock auto
By far theeee most informative video. You practically identified a weakness and optional solutions. Good work!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks
i love this channel i could watch it all day. Please make more videos! The really in depth videos are my favorite
Glad you like them! I've been distracted with building another camper. Almost done, then I have lots of Projects/Videos planned! Thanks
Great informational video, I have no plans to sas my truck as I have it lowered but enjoyed watching & learning regardless
Thanks 👍
Glad to have you along!
I know it’s not related to this vid but Would you be able to show where/how you hooked up your boost gage and other gages?
I’ll see what I can do… maybe I’ll put together a short with the info… most of the connections are buried under the intake. If you watch the gauge video, supercharger and then I’ll post something on AF gauge etc 👍
I'm doing the same to my 97 mountaineer using a high pinion 44 out of a 77 f150 that we cut off the passenger C and moved it in several inches to get the right track width. then i will be using a 91 to 94 explorer TTB frame. James Duff makes a almost bolt on radius arm set up just for this. I have a semi floater Dana 60 out of a 69 f150 for the rear that i will just do a axle under spring swap. the stock 302 is getting swapped for a 351 using a lighting intake to make the stock upper half of the intake work. hope you have good luck with your swap.
Wow that sounds like an awesome build! Are you filming it? If so can you post a link, Id love to follow the build!
I'm gonna do a solid axle sway on 2011 Ford Ranger FX4. I just purchase a xj Cherokee high pinion Dana 30 for $200. I'm going to actually beef it up with all high quality parts fit all out like you would do with a dana 44. But my setup is al for overlanding and trail riding
For light off road and smaller tires I think that sounds like a good plan, keep your same wheels, axle width etc. but get all the benefits of a straight axle and get rid of the car steering.
Nice, if you film it send me the link I’ll add it to a playlist! 👍
@@RangerShop1 hell yeah! I definately would do that🤙🏻. Were planning out pretty much the same thing. I'm tired of breakage and limitations of what the IFS has. You can't even get a proper lift neither the reinforcements for IFS. I already have set of "5" of 33x12r15 interco AT tires in my garage. So I plan on doing a 6" lift on skyscraper coil springs, chromoly axle shafts, barnes 4wd coil spring/ shock mount brackets since the factory ones are weak on the axle, heim joints, inner c gussets, axle seals, spartan auto locker, 4.56 gears, axle sleeves for strength and also wj big brake & crossover steering. After all that's done. I'm also gonna do the spring leaf delete and do links like a JK jeep suspension. That way I could still retain my gas tank. Its the basic 2 links on each side of the vehicle to side frame with the panhard bar centered off and the shocks rear angled just like the older jeeps with coil springs/coilovers . I really think this all would work for sure💯👌🏻. Its not many videos of ford rangers have rear coil spring or rear coilover suspension swaps. But I wanna be the least to say I did it🤙🏻
@@genoory5090 right on that sounds like a great plan! I would love to see the linked rear end! On coil-overs that would be sick!
@@RangerShop1 once I complete the front, I will work on the rear for sure
Great video! Im considering axle swapping my ranger as well for all the same reasons you mentioned. Im running 33x10.5 on 2” of lift and i have hardly any wheel travel in the front, it is super stiff. I also want a selectable locker. I have considered the high pinion jeep dana 30 and installing the axle shafts from a newer dana 30 with the larger u-joints, im not sure if that would actually work though. I really like your idea though of the full width dana 44, but then i would have to use the ford 9” to get the width or bolt pattern to match. Im wanting to run ox lockers and they dont sell one for the ford 9”. Ive though about the ford 8.8 31 spline and using a c-clip eliminator kit, some will widen out the axle a little bit so it might not be noticeable and then having a machine shop double drill the shafts for the correct bolt pattern. Im really trying to avoid spacers or narrowing axles. Is there another option im missing? My truck is a full time trail rig, but it does need to be street legal/ able to drive itself places on the road. Another thought, have you considered moving the front axle forward a couple inches? Looking at my ranger, if i moved my front axle forward i could have more clearance with my fenders without raising the ride height. It would also give better entrance angles. Thanks for all the videos and information!
Might a 1987-96 F150 8.8 work? They had the 5x5.5 lugs then it would match the front Dana 44? You would still need c-clip eliminators but you could run an Ox. Love those lockers by the way! Definitely moving the axle forward… I’m not sure if an inch or two but it’s going forward. I picked up a Cherokee front driveshaft so I’ll see how that lines up if I can shift the axle forward a bit and not have a custom made front shaft that would be perfect…. We will see.
Here’s a good site for checking bolt patterns…
tiresglobe.com/ford-f150-lug-and-bolt-pattern/
I'm surprised the lunchbox in the front was causing so much wear with manual hubs. Not a recomended setup at all?
I think for a normal truck it would have done OK, but pulling a trailer up a rocky trail was just killing the steering rack!
The manual hubs did help a bunch though, I couldn’t imagine going full time with it in there. When it locks in it really locks up. 👌👍
Great video 👍. Sir, can we invite you to do a review video for our Auto LED lighting? We could arrange to have a sample product shipped for review
what tire size and what power? full width axles are a no brainer these days. go grab a set of 05+ f350 axles and run with it. the cost of those axles is less then going to an ancient d44 setup. d44 cant really handle 35s that well. I am saying that when I own a stack of d44 ford stuff and have detroits and yukon chro moly shafts in one. tying yourself to jeep junk d30 is dumb. full widths are the only smart choice. huge brakes, bulletproof and CHEAPER
these arguements are the same incorrect thinking we have watched small truck guys do for 40 years. "ground clearance is better with a d30" yeah in 1 spot, but if ground clearance is a concern bolt on 35s. the d60 on a light truck is bulletproof. wider is better, it helps stability , keeps tire away from frame rubbing etc
35”, supercharged 4.0 SOHC
I couldn’t find a set of decent Dana 60 for under 2000$ plus the gears, lockers, rebuild kit was all double the cost of 1/2 ton. But this is Canada where everything is crazy expensive!
My HP Dana 44, 9” Axles cost me 150$, complete rebuild kit gears limited slip etc was another 1300$
HP Dana 44 has no problem with 35”, maybe you’re thinking LP Dana 44?
Anyways if it breaks I’ll definitely post a video and then you can say told you so.
Here’s the end truck-
ruclips.net/video/2gUQZQoC8r4/видео.htmlsi=aasrA0jV8NXoAsjf
@@RangerShop1 I am Canadian. I have several 05 d60s that I have bought for as low as $200. on a d44 the axle shaft/ujoints are what pop with 35s and a locker. this is not my first rodeo and in the long run it is cheaper to go d60. I have a hpd44 here with detroit and yukons in it, still crushes 297 joints. a warn popped on it and took out the detroit. I wont polish another one of those turds :) the 05+ axles have a factory 1550 joint option, I grabbed a couple sets when they were dirt cheap on rock auto
👍