Model Lights and Lenses using pewter foil, 5 minute epoxy, and Tamiya Colored Clears #tamiyapaint #modellights #epoxy Follow Me Online ★www.flyingsmode... ★ / flyingsmodels
I did something similar to this using kristal klear for the lens on a gunsight. since I didn't have a punch and die I used a landing gear strut from a very old model and punched aluminum foil into the palm of my hand. I got a decent foil backing after a few tries (though I did lose one or two decent backings to the floor unfortunately). now kristal klear actually has instructions on how to make lenses on the bottle itself, and it says to mix it with some food coloring for colored lenses, which I did with some green. it came out a little dark, but it worked since the projection lens usually looks dark at most angles.
That's another great way to make the lenses...I may have to try that for comparison. I appreciate you sharing the technique with me. And good job using the landing gear to punch out the foil. Always good when we can find creative solutions to our challenges. Cheers!
I don't think that the Waldron one is still available but you can get the same sizes in this one: www.micromark.com/Micro-Punch-Set?gclid=Cj0KCQiA-eeMBhCpARIsAAZfxZB8UskIvfuWtmUkR6zdgtwdpTpPz5PGXF_lglTWiKl5kLctEDWEX9MaAnjhEALw_wcB
Really cool and convincing as a light, and relatively simple, thanks. I just can’t bring myself to buy a bottle of clear red/green/blue that I know will last ages if I can even use it all in the next 40 years 😂. I might try mixing in a bit of paint or dry pigments.
Appreciate the good feedback. It works really well but you are right, the bottle of clear read, green, and blue will go bad before you use them all..haha. But for only $3 or so a bottle, it's not a terribly high price to pay to get some good looking lights for your models.
Cool idea! I build Many 1/72 scale a-c, would that die punch work for me on that scale for making those landing lights on the nose strut? How about weapons with IR seekers like Maverick missiles?? I checked your other comments, and noticed that 'Micro Mark' DOES sell that punch, that is similar to yours.
Appreciate the feedback. Hope the video was helpful. I use my punch and die set all the time for 1/72 through 1/32 builds. A very useful tool to invest in.
@@FlyingSModels Cool Beans..... and Thanks for getting back with 'Reply' Quickly!!! Do you have any other pics of usage?? I was hoping to see those in This video. And Lastly, what size do you recommended for those 1/72 landing lights on that nose gear??
Thanks! Appreciate the good words. I don't think most CA's dry completely clear so that might be an issue. I've heard this Bondic UV cured stuff works good but I haven't tried it yet. Need to do that soon: amzn.to/2PxqFrT
@@FlyingSModels Thanks for the quick feedback! I have always used thick CA for lamp posts. But those were very small scale, 1:600. It was just enough to look like there was dew on the lamp post. Glad you are pushing out these nuggets of knowledge. Please keep them coming.
@@nc_cyborg640 Hope that the videos help a little. Yep, I think CA would be a good choice in 1:600 scale but maybe not so much in 1:48 or similar. Happy Modeling!
Mine is a Waldron set that is no longer in production but I think you can get the same sizes in this set: www.micromark.com/Micro-Punch-Set?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkIGKBhCxARIsAINMioLCkXElR5tnIx11xC1B2Fg3qK-cixWUh0E7qX2MY-flUxxr381J3lsaApLIEALw_wcB
Dude! Where was this video when I started looking for model lenses a month ago? I model HO trains and I couldn't believe how hard these lenses were to find commercially and in the correct size! I nearly fell out of my chair when I saw your package of lenses from MV Products! I looked all over the interwebs to find some MV 3.5mm red lenses. When I finally found them, I way overpaid for them. But they are realistic. Your method looks much more economical. One question though: Have you tried to light them from the backside by drilling a hole through the metal backing? Do you think that would work? I am thinking for a small LED or fiber optic lighting.
I sure hope it helps. The MV lenses were really nice but became harder to come by and really expensive. I'm guessing if you drill a small hole you could get a tiny LED up in there and it would work. Haven't tried it but would be fun to do so. Keep me posted on how it works!
That foil looked pretty thick. I'm guessing it's not typical household kitchen foil? And a word of caution on using the epoxy if you're intending to make an unpainted, clear lens... epoxy tends to yellow over time. Some worse than others. I'm a long time R/C airplane builder so I have some experience with this.
The foil is pewter sheet and not your everyday Reynolds Aluminum foil. I haven't had any issues with yellowing of those lenses but then again, the models haven't been seeing a lot of UV exposure. But a good word of caution, for sure. I'm sure continued UV exposure to most other model parts wouldn't be all that great for them either ;)
Thanks. You might be able to “cheat” by using some brass tubing to punch out the soft pewter or a steel rod and a very soft surface may allow you to punch the foil that way.
Oct. 24, 2020----Seems Waldron isn't making this set any more....and is Waldron even in business any more? Just checked Evilbay where there's ONE set available, at $169 which includes shipping?! The other punch set I found out about on RUclips is a company called RSP, and their set is also available on Evilbay....at $120, including shipping.
Nope, don't think Waldron is making them but I believe I found another set. I think someone else asked about it a while back and I was able to find another set that was actually pretty affordable. I think I posted it in the comments but I'm not certain. Let me check and repost if I can find it.
Try this one from Micro Mark. I think they are the same sizes as the ones in the Waldron set and a good bit cheaper than eBay. Think they are also offering 10% off right now. Hope this helps.
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I did something similar to this using kristal klear for the lens on a gunsight. since I didn't have a punch and die I used a landing gear strut from a very old model and punched aluminum foil into the palm of my hand. I got a decent foil backing after a few tries (though I did lose one or two decent backings to the floor unfortunately). now kristal klear actually has instructions on how to make lenses on the bottle itself, and it says to mix it with some food coloring for colored lenses, which I did with some green. it came out a little dark, but it worked since the projection lens usually looks dark at most angles.
That's another great way to make the lenses...I may have to try that for comparison. I appreciate you sharing the technique with me. And good job using the landing gear to punch out the foil. Always good when we can find creative solutions to our challenges. Cheers!
Cool tip. I wonder if you can mix a little clear blue into to epoxy instead of painting in the end.
That's a great idea. I'm going to have to give it a try. Let me know if you beat me to it and find out how well it works.
OMG I've got to get that die set, I've tried everything to make good lenses and reflectors for my model trains, thank you!
I don't think that the Waldron one is still available but you can get the same sizes in this one: www.micromark.com/Micro-Punch-Set?gclid=Cj0KCQiA-eeMBhCpARIsAAZfxZB8UskIvfuWtmUkR6zdgtwdpTpPz5PGXF_lglTWiKl5kLctEDWEX9MaAnjhEALw_wcB
Great video, nicely done! Thx!
Thank you! I hope it was helpful.
Really cool and convincing as a light, and relatively simple, thanks. I just can’t bring myself to buy a bottle of clear red/green/blue that I know will last ages if I can even use it all in the next 40 years 😂. I might try mixing in a bit of paint or dry pigments.
Appreciate the good feedback. It works really well but you are right, the bottle of clear read, green, and blue will go bad before you use them all..haha. But for only $3 or so a bottle, it's not a terribly high price to pay to get some good looking lights for your models.
Great tips! Great videos, clear explanations, simple, straightforward.
Appreciate that. I'll continue to follow that recipe, then for the upcoming videos
Wonderful. Thanks for this great tip. ❤️
Thank you!
These videos have amazing tips
Thanks! Just trying to help fellow modelers. Thanks for the positive feedback.
Thanks man! Great technique!
Thank you! More in work so make sure to stay tuned.
Cool demo!
Hope it helps. Thanks for taking the time to provide some feedback.
Great video Chad!
Thanks, Jason. Hope it helps!
Another excellent video!
Thanks! Hope the tips and techniques are helpful.
Cool idea!
I build Many 1/72 scale a-c, would that die punch work for me on that scale for making those landing lights on the nose strut? How about weapons with IR seekers like Maverick missiles??
I checked your other comments, and noticed that 'Micro Mark' DOES sell that punch, that is similar to yours.
Appreciate the feedback. Hope the video was helpful. I use my punch and die set all the time for 1/72 through 1/32 builds. A very useful tool to invest in.
@@FlyingSModels Cool Beans..... and Thanks for getting back with 'Reply' Quickly!!!
Do you have any other pics of usage?? I was hoping to see those in This video. And Lastly, what size do you recommended for those 1/72 landing lights on that nose gear??
Great video! Love the work. What are your thoughts on using thick CA vice the epoxy?
Thanks! Appreciate the good words. I don't think most CA's dry completely clear so that might be an issue. I've heard this Bondic UV cured stuff works good but I haven't tried it yet. Need to do that soon: amzn.to/2PxqFrT
@@FlyingSModels Thanks for the quick feedback!
I have always used thick CA for lamp posts. But those were very small scale, 1:600. It was just enough to look like there was dew on the lamp post.
Glad you are pushing out these nuggets of knowledge. Please keep them coming.
@@nc_cyborg640 Hope that the videos help a little. Yep, I think CA would be a good choice in 1:600 scale but maybe not so much in 1:48 or similar. Happy Modeling!
2:52 hello where did you get that miniature punching ? Thanks
Mine is a Waldron set that is no longer in production but I think you can get the same sizes in this set: www.micromark.com/Micro-Punch-Set?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkIGKBhCxARIsAINMioLCkXElR5tnIx11xC1B2Fg3qK-cixWUh0E7qX2MY-flUxxr381J3lsaApLIEALw_wcB
Dude! Where was this video when I started looking for model lenses a month ago? I model HO trains and I couldn't believe how hard these lenses were to find commercially and in the correct size! I nearly fell out of my chair when I saw your package of lenses from MV Products! I looked all over the interwebs to find some MV 3.5mm red lenses. When I finally found them, I way overpaid for them. But they are realistic. Your method looks much more economical. One question though: Have you tried to light them from the backside by drilling a hole through the metal backing? Do you think that would work? I am thinking for a small LED or fiber optic lighting.
I sure hope it helps. The MV lenses were really nice but became harder to come by and really expensive. I'm guessing if you drill a small hole you could get a tiny LED up in there and it would work. Haven't tried it but would be fun to do so. Keep me posted on how it works!
Is there any reason why you use the pewter sheet as opposed to just Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil?
I just like it because it’s thicker and easier to use but you should be able to use either.
Great tutorial. Rather than the epoxy have you thought of using a UV curing glue such as Bondic to make the lens?
Thank you, Jon. I haven't tried that yet but maybe I should. Let me know if you get to it first :)
That foil looked pretty thick. I'm guessing it's not typical household kitchen foil?
And a word of caution on using the epoxy if you're intending to make an unpainted, clear lens... epoxy tends to yellow over time. Some worse than others. I'm a long time R/C airplane builder so I have some experience with this.
The foil is pewter sheet and not your everyday Reynolds Aluminum foil. I haven't had any issues with yellowing of those lenses but then again, the models haven't been seeing a lot of UV exposure. But a good word of caution, for sure. I'm sure continued UV exposure to most other model parts wouldn't be all that great for them either ;)
I am intrigued with this technique as I have tried several things. What I am wondering what brand of metal foil are you using?
Hey Michael, I use the same foil that I use for making belts and harnesses. Here's a link if you want to check it out: Pewter foil: amzn.to/39XpxWg
Use the pans that u take bbq home in cheap at the dollar store
Very nice. The only problem is find a punch and die set here in Brazil.
Thanks. You might be able to “cheat” by using some brass tubing to punch out the soft pewter or a steel rod and a very soft surface may allow you to punch the foil that way.
FlyingSModels thanks. It’s a very good solution
Oct. 24, 2020----Seems Waldron isn't making this set any more....and is Waldron even in business any more?
Just checked Evilbay where there's ONE set available, at $169 which includes shipping?! The other punch set I found out about on RUclips is a company called RSP, and their set is also available on Evilbay....at $120, including shipping.
Nope, don't think Waldron is making them but I believe I found another set. I think someone else asked about it a while back and I was able to find another set that was actually pretty affordable. I think I posted it in the comments but I'm not certain. Let me check and repost if I can find it.
Try this one from Micro Mark. I think they are the same sizes as the ones in the Waldron set and a good bit cheaper than eBay. Think they are also offering 10% off right now. Hope this helps.
@@FlyingSModels Hey, 'FlyingSModels'..... Yes, you are correct... 'Micro Mark' does sell them, checked their site Jan 2024!