Thanks for the video Tom. Another superb video of a job properly done. I like the way you show us all the details in a professional manner with many extra tips like putting a cloth over the alloy fork caps. I bought a motorcycle Lift stand from a different vendor to save some money and it backfired big time. They sent the wrong jack and now refuse to exhange it for the correct one. The quality is terrible with lots of play in the bushes. BEWARE everyone, only buy from a reputable dealer. I will buy from the one you recommend if I get a refund.
Thank you for your kind word James. It’s comments like these that keep the channel going. It’s nice to hear that some people benefit from the video content! I have no affiliation with any manufacturer or supplier, I only give my honest opinion on the tool and equipment that I use. That said, the stand used in the video was good and I can recommend it for regular bike maintenance👍 Thanks again, Cheers Tom
nicely explained Tom, you can also just use the calculator and do, 440 - 67% and it will give you the value, then press = and it automatically gives the 33%, another tip if you dont mind, instead of eyeballing the measurements of oil, use some kitchen scales, you will find a ml is the same weight as a gram, very precise way to measure oils.
From what I can tell. The correct weight of oil to use, is not the size of the bike. Or the weight of the rider. It is the temperature of the country that you live in. I had this problem trying to work out what oil to use in my forks, Scott
David, hi. Thanks for coming back and leaving a comment on the video. Its interesting you should mention the rear shock. I have a service manual and there is no mention of the rear shock, only check and clean periodically…. Do you know where I can find any specification on the rear shock? All good if you don’t have anything on hand, I’ll do some digging online👍 Cheers, Tom
Agreed, Paul. Grease nipples are great for scheduled maintenance👍 I checked my linkage and it feels ok, however it probably needs a good greasing. Did your rear shock parts cost a fortune from PJME?
Hi Tom, first of all thank you for this clear video. Your my go to channel if it comes to the Aprilia RS 125. I want to do the same. Is it true that there is only a spring on one side and a damper on the other side?
Hello again Jaap. I’m glad my channel is your ‘go to’ for your bike. I make these videos for you guys👍 It’s true that one side is damp and the other is spring. From memory, I believe the right side for is damp. Good luck with you suspension service mate Cheers Tom
Hi Fermzy. Sorry I’m not sure. My bike, 2010, has only one spring. The other side is damper/rebound. I’d assume your 2001 model would be similar 👍 Thanks for watching T
Any chance you can provide measurements of the fork bushings? AF1 Racing is telling me they should be changed with the form maintenance but they have been discontinued in North America. I see they are still available in Europe but cost about 5x normal now. I am looking for aftermarket replacements but need the measurements.
If you find the solution let me know. In the same boat as you. Living in U.S. and trying to source parts for the RS 125 can be a pain the rear. Shipping from across the pound has gotten pricey.
Hallo Tom nice video! I am 70kg and gonna change the fork oil on my 06 RS 125 ... WHAT viscosity do u suggest for track use? Living in Greece (high temperatures) Thanks in advance!
thinking to get mine service as well.. there is no spring at all for this fork model? im using same model and fork.. wonder what is dust and oil seal size of this? plus oil capacity each fork? since in the video old oil total 750ml for both.. in the manual stated 440ml each.. thx
Hi Kamarul One fork is sprung, the other is dampening. The dust and oil seals should be mentioned in the video. If you Google the part numbers you should find them. New oil is added to the forks- I’m sure I mention the quantity as per the manual👍. Cheers Tom
@@tomdidit4216 yup find the part number but im planning to just buy at oil n seal shop near to my place, they just need to measurement either 40 x 52 x 10 or 42 x 50 x8.. im not really sure for this model euro 3
@@tomdidit4216 olrite.. act at the upper side of the seal it has stamp the size dimention of the seal.. every seal had the stamp dimension.. yup in this case mine progress will be a slightly delay due to need to dismantle the fork 1st then to get the seal.. thx mate
You could of just seated the fork oil seal first with a socket (gentle taps work fine) ensuring its past the retain clip groove, seat the retainer clip in its groove then insert the stanchion. No need to use an oil seal driver kit with these forks. Apart from that good how to video
another great video Tom - Can the oil seal go in the wrong way? it was hard to go in one way, the other I could seat it with my fingers. Also im struggling to get the dust cover back on - should I use a seal ram thing you have? No way can I just clip the dust seal in like you did?
Hi Tim. Thanks for your comment. I can’t remember which way I put the fork seals back in, sorry. Does the video not show? Do you remember which way the old seals came out? You don’t necessarily need a fork driver for the seals, however it makes things allot easier. You can use any small blunt object to gently tap them in👍 Good luck 🤞 Tom
@@tomdidit4216 All done! - Thanks, they were in the wrong way. They slip right in upside down...shame! Yes, I did exactly that, the dust covers were well tight! Miles done all dry! Thanks again, v helpful videos
Mi spiace deluderti ma hai fatto molti errori nel lavoro del video. Non hai lucidato gli steli, cosa molto importante, i paraolio nuovi vanno inseriti nel fodero con attrezzo dedicato, non hai controllato la guida stelo interna ( va tolta con appositi attrezzo). In pratica hai cambiato paraolio e parapolvere e pure sbagliando. Dovresti informarti meglio prima di postare sui forum un lavoro fatto male. Buon lavoro.
Thanks for the video Tom. Another superb video of a job properly done. I like the way you show us all the details in a professional manner with many extra tips like putting a cloth over the alloy fork caps. I bought a motorcycle Lift stand from a different vendor to save some money and it backfired big time. They sent the wrong jack and now refuse to exhange it for the correct one. The quality is terrible with lots of play in the bushes. BEWARE everyone, only buy from a reputable dealer. I will buy from the one you recommend if I get a refund.
Thank you for your kind word James. It’s comments like these that keep the channel going. It’s nice to hear that some people benefit from the video content!
I have no affiliation with any manufacturer or supplier, I only give my honest opinion on the tool and equipment that I use. That said, the stand used in the video was good and I can recommend it for regular bike maintenance👍
Thanks again,
Cheers
Tom
Another quality video mate very well explained!! To the millimeter…….. Love it.
Cheers Nick👍
Very well explained Tom, i feel like i could tackle this on my RS now :-)
nicely explained Tom, you can also just use the calculator and do, 440 - 67% and it will give you the value, then press = and it automatically gives the 33%, another tip if you dont mind, instead of eyeballing the measurements of oil, use some kitchen scales, you will find a ml is the same weight as a gram, very precise way to measure oils.
Thanks for watching
Also thanks for the tip. Noted well👍
Hi Tom would you mind sharing the document for the maintainances please? Maybe sharing a link or where you got it from, thank you in advance!
Great video! Really well explained
Hey 2 stroke rides.
Thanks for your continued support on the channel👍 very very much appreciated.
From what I can tell. The correct weight of oil to use, is not the size of the bike. Or the weight of the rider. It is the temperature of the country that you live in. I had this problem trying to work out what oil to use in my forks, Scott
Scott
Thanks for your comment. All things to be considered. Noted well👍
Great video mate
one of the next jobs for me to do along with yss rear shock you should have a look at the rear linkage they pick up a lot of dirt
David, hi.
Thanks for coming back and leaving a comment on the video.
Its interesting you should mention the rear shock. I have a service manual and there is no mention of the rear shock, only check and clean periodically…. Do you know where I can find any specification on the rear shock?
All good if you don’t have anything on hand, I’ll do some digging online👍
Cheers, Tom
@@tomdidit4216 only Haynes manual but my rs was very neglected so yours is probably ok as bike is very clean condition 👍
Agreed, Paul.
Grease nipples are great for scheduled maintenance👍
I checked my linkage and it feels ok, however it probably needs a good greasing.
Did your rear shock parts cost a fortune from PJME?
Ok David. I may check out the Haynes manual.
Cheers.
Greetings tom what levers you got on there pukka videos I'm looking to do all you have shown on these videos
Another great video my good man. Have you ever lived in the UK? lol
Yes sir,
Born and bred in Somerset, England. Lived there for the first 23 years of my life then relocated to Sydney Australia👍
@@tomdidit4216 I wasn't sure whether it was West Country or Norfolk. Hahahaha. I'm Peterborough born and bred
Nice👍
Do you have an RS125?
@@tomdidit4216 I bloody wish. Hahahaha. Looking into getting one
Hi Tom, first of all thank you for this clear video.
Your my go to channel if it comes to the Aprilia RS 125.
I want to do the same.
Is it true that there is only a spring on one side and a damper on the other side?
Hello again Jaap.
I’m glad my channel is your ‘go to’ for your bike. I make these videos for you guys👍
It’s true that one side is damp and the other is spring. From memory, I believe the right side for is damp.
Good luck with you suspension service mate
Cheers
Tom
Hi Tom, do you know if if the rs 125 has only 1 spring? My project 2001 model only has! Can't find the information on my haynes manual, thanks
Hi Fermzy.
Sorry I’m not sure. My bike, 2010, has only one spring. The other side is damper/rebound. I’d assume your 2001 model would be similar 👍
Thanks for watching
T
watching this....
29:57 okay guys, around the 30 min mark
i was like WHAT THE FUCK? its been 30 mins??? lol
Hi Roronoa.
Sound like you enjoyed the video!
Thanks for the comment
Regards
Tom
@@tomdidit4216 i passed my motorbike license just a month ago. wanting to get this bike actually. hahaha i love to stroke.
Congratulations on passing your test.
The RS 125 is a great choice brother👍
@@tomdidit4216 Thank you Tom, do upload more 2 stroke videos
Any chance you can provide measurements of the fork bushings? AF1 Racing is telling me they should be changed with the form maintenance but they have been discontinued in North America. I see they are still available in Europe but cost about 5x normal now. I am looking for aftermarket replacements but need the measurements.
If you find the solution let me know. In the same boat as you. Living in U.S. and trying to source parts for the RS 125 can be a pain the rear. Shipping from across the pound has gotten pricey.
Hallo Tom nice video! I am 70kg and gonna change the fork oil on my 06 RS 125 ... WHAT viscosity do u suggest for track use? Living in Greece (high temperatures) Thanks in advance!
thinking to get mine service as well.. there is no spring at all for this fork model? im using same model and fork.. wonder what is dust and oil seal size of this? plus oil capacity each fork? since in the video old oil total 750ml for both.. in the manual stated 440ml each.. thx
Hi Kamarul
One fork is sprung, the other is dampening.
The dust and oil seals should be mentioned in the video. If you Google the part numbers you should find them.
New oil is added to the forks- I’m sure I mention the quantity as per the manual👍.
Cheers
Tom
@@tomdidit4216 yup find the part number but im planning to just buy at oil n seal shop near to my place, they just need to measurement either 40 x 52 x 10 or 42 x 50 x8.. im not really sure for this model euro 3
Hey Kamarul
Sorry I didn’t measure the dimensions. My only suggestion is to take your old seal out of the fork and take it to the shop👍
@@tomdidit4216 olrite.. act at the upper side of the seal it has stamp the size dimention of the seal.. every seal had the stamp dimension.. yup in this case mine progress will be a slightly delay due to need to dismantle the fork 1st then to get the seal.. thx mate
Hi tom, what is the name of the tool you use to remove the oil seal ?
Hi Michael
It’s call a Seal Puller. That are about $20-$30 dollars👍
You could of just seated the fork oil seal first with a socket (gentle taps work fine) ensuring its past the retain clip groove, seat the retainer clip in its groove then insert the stanchion. No need to use an oil seal driver kit with these forks. Apart from that good how to video
Greetings Scott.
Thanks for your constructive comment👍
Glad you like the video
Hi Tom, where did you purchase your workshop manual from, can't locate any for the 2007+ RS125 :-(
Hi R&D OM
Please email me.
tomdidit2020@gmail.com
It will be easier to share the link.
another great video Tom - Can the oil seal go in the wrong way? it was hard to go in one way, the other I could seat it with my fingers. Also im struggling to get the dust cover back on - should I use a seal ram thing you have? No way can I just clip the dust seal in like you did?
Hi Tim.
Thanks for your comment. I can’t remember which way I put the fork seals back in, sorry. Does the video not show? Do you remember which way the old seals came out?
You don’t necessarily need a fork driver for the seals, however it makes things allot easier. You can use any small blunt object to gently tap them in👍
Good luck 🤞
Tom
@@tomdidit4216 All done! - Thanks, they were in the wrong way. They slip right in upside down...shame! Yes, I did exactly that, the dust covers were well tight! Miles done all dry! Thanks again, v helpful videos
Where the he'll is the spring?
Hi ahole.
One side of the fork is dampened, the other is rebound (spring). It’s an enclosed unit👍
Cheers
Top
so both put 440ml oil?
Yes
Mi spiace deluderti ma hai fatto molti errori nel lavoro del video.
Non hai lucidato gli steli, cosa molto importante, i paraolio nuovi vanno inseriti nel fodero con attrezzo dedicato, non hai controllato la guida stelo interna ( va tolta con appositi attrezzo).
In pratica hai cambiato paraolio e parapolvere e pure sbagliando.
Dovresti informarti meglio prima di postare sui forum un lavoro fatto male.
Buon lavoro.