Folding Outfeed table for a cabinet saw
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- I've developed some bad habits with my table saw that could cost me my fingers and they mostly revolve around not having an outfeed table.
My table saw sits against the garage door and feeds out the door into the driveway, and the driveway is sloped, this makes it hard to have any sort of outfeed table.
With this design however, I am able to keep my saw in the same position and know that the outfeed table will always be level with the saw bed whenever it is extended.
Some of my tools:
Router - amzn.to/39B8vj2
Pocket hole jig - amzn.to/3DxARVG
Woodpeckers stainless steel squares - www.woodpeck.c...
Planer/Thicknesser - www.carbatec.c...
Cabinet Saw - www.carbatec.c...
Jig Saw - amzn.to/3j0Eom8
Circular Saw - amzn.to/3v9Nrab
Brad point bits - amzn.to/3K6rnmK and amzn.to/3x7uAie
Right angle clamps - amzn.to/3uP9zX8
I just reached 1000 subscribers which is really humbling, thanks everyone 😀
The adds are a little confusing however and I am worried that too many may be showing up, if you are seeing more than 3 sets of adds (beginning, middle, end) please let me know so I can try and fix it 🙏
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Gracias ☺️
That is defently the strongest outfeed table I have ever seen, (nice Design), I mite add, Formica is a Brand Name, that material is called HIGH PRESSURE LAMINET.
Great to see someone doing good work in a typical home garage/shed workshop and not a mini factory. Well done.
Thumbs up does not describe my appreciation of your video and thoughts; I want to make one. Thank you!!
I like this I have a small shop too. A regular out feed table would be in the way most of the time. You can score Formica like glass and snap it. They sell a specific blade for that, Also a hand trimming "plane". They also have a beveling router bit for that. I guess I have been around when Formica was used more often.
nice design and execution. Thanks for showing some of the obstacles along the way and how you solved them.
First, thanks for sharing the "UPS and Downs" we all encounter during our engineering mistakes & infrequent success..you've inspired me to get this done, as I have put off building an outfeed extension for too long..consider me subscribed and again, thanks for the nudge forward!
Great solution. I love watching videos made by woodworkers in other English speaking countries and hearing different terms for tools than used in the US. “Thicknesses” and “Linisher”.
This is the best vid I’ve seen of the exact outfeed table I want to build. Thank you!!!
Very nice design and execution and thanks for sharing the mistakes & oversights. I make my share, and its always nice to learn from others rather than from myself.
Awesome job!!.. Thanks for sharing
Love this outfeed table. It will work perfectly with my Jet tablesaw.
The Guy Ritchie_Esque montage of redoing the legs was perfect!!!!
Very clever leg system. Well done.
My new tablesaw arrives this week.
This is going to be my first project on it.
Cheers from across the ditch cuz🤘
Awesome, I’d love to see a pic of it when your done, maybe on instagram?
I’m building this out feed table, my table saw has the same piece of angle iron on the outfeed side of the table saw.
Nice warts and all video! Good job! 👍
Great video that compelled me to subscribe.
You an absolute genius 👍👍
Mac, very nice job. Personally i would have made a catch or bracket where this leg attaches to. Now there's only a metal edge, which it is leaning on. I'm afraid that when there's some vibration or someone bumps into it, your outfeedtable will fall down.
Hey Barrie
That's a fair call and I might do a short or something in the future if I have issues.
Because the table is double 18mm MDF, its pretty darn heavy and i haven't managed to bump it out yet, I'm actually more concerned that the bend in the leg will flop out and im thinking about putting a catch on it to ensure that doesn't happen
you can add a couple rare earth magnets where the leg meets the cabinet ... those are quite strongthese days and would prevent minor bumps from allowing the leg to slip off the ledge
A slight variation is to not even make the leg, simply use a board instead, cut top mitre angle to fit neatly under the outer edge of the extension and sit the other end down on the table saw lower lip. I have had mine like this for years and never once bumped it. My top simply hooks over the extra timber lip on the table top and I locate it by sliding two bolts between the two faces. Both table and support board store flat and take seconds to install.
The extra bonus is that they are always aligned with the saw table top and are independent of having to adjust the leg as it is never in contact with the ground and its bumpy bits.
P.S. Cut some holes in the board to reduce its wight without affecting its stiffness 16-18mm thickness is good.
Brilliant only a couple of mistakes considering it's a one off build on the fly an excellent result 😊
Nice job, my only critique is PLEASE shim your miter saw to be flush with your countertop 😂 every time you were making a cut and pushing down the edge flat to the saw, you could see the tail lift off the counter. Means that you can't make square cuts with it lol
Nice addition. I appreciate you not polishing out the issues.
Yep, it helps us avoid them. Nice clean project, well thought through.
I know this video was created 2 years ago but a couple items for your consideration: 1) use a straight router bit for sizing the Formica sheet. It is a cleaner cut than a saw. 2) Let the first coat of glue dry on the Formica and then coat is again. This gives better adhesion to the wood. Nice job overall.
Excellent video.......I've been thinking about building a tablesaw extension table for quite a while and your clever design fits the bill perfectly. Thanks so much for documenting your journey for all us sawdust creators.
Two tips. Add another coat of contact cement. First layer smoothes out tiny peaks and valleys. Or you can add varnish/shellac than one coat of contact cement. And second tip is to use one inch wide rollers. This prevents the pressure from spreading out over the width of the baking roller. For an outfeed table I'm sure a few bubbles will be OK. But using 1 inch rollers will eliminate any issues.
And great build! Enjoyed the video
Somewhere in my life I picked up some aluminum piano hinge, no wimpy stuff either. Probably 2.5 inches wide total and it is 3/16 thick. I bolted a piece of wood to the rear of my saw and the side extension for my 52" Bimeyer fence, screwed the piano hinge to that then built an outfeed table similar to yours but used 1" square alum tube for the frame and particle board (coated with 3 coats of satin poly). I added two 1" steel square tube legs that fold to each corner, these have adjustable rubber feet so wherever I set my saw up in the garage I can account for the floor being uneven. I also made a side extension that allows me to cut wide material by bolting a piece of angle iron on the side of the table. One end of the extension sits on the angle and there are 3 tapped 1/4-20 holes in the angle to attach the extension to and a simple square support leg made out of 1 x 4 supports the outer end. It has a flat wood top with a 1/4-20 machine screw insert , I use a few wide wood shims under that leg to level it.
Nice production! Thanks for sharing the one off mistakes. Helps me to carry on in spite of all my mistakes! 🙂
I was very concerned every time he used the drill press. Holding the piece while using the drill press is a definitely a safety hazard. If the bit were to catch, it could spin the piece around pulling your hand into the bit. I have seen a coworker take a chunk out of their hand that way. please use the clamps when able and work safe. otherwise, Great video. Thanks.
Superb solution, work and video. Loved it! One thing puzzles me. At 12:40 we see you remove the protective film but it still seems to be there at 22:22. Regards, Phil
Thanks 😊
I just double checked and the film is gone at 22:22, what I think you are seeing is where I drew with pencil on it and removed the pencil with an eraser, it left those strange marks there, which have since disappeared with use.
I bet you had some awful scary thoughts of What if I had hit that screw! I know that I have had some scary close call myself.
I cannot belive you only got 5k subscribers. This was very enjoyable and surprisingly relaxing to watch.
Keep it up! 🎉
I've seen lots of outfeed tables, but this is closest to my saw design and functionality that I'm looking for.
Great job!
I will be doing this for my sawtable for sure!
For a large glue up like the table top I use a pin nailer to keep the 2 pieces straight nd then add enough concrete blocks to cover the top. No clamps needed nor do I have any screws in the top to get in the way eventually. None at all...Forstner bits do not need pilot holes.. Don't want "blow out", use a wooden table that you can drill into Either that or set the depth gauge so that the point of the bit will emerge and then turn the piece over and finish the hole. Your basic design and I will be using the ideas on my out feed table soon... I envy your drill press as my old Craftsman press does not have a crank on the table for adjustment. It is older than I am and I am 75 now...
Thanks for sharing, i built a nearly identical one for my Unisaw last year. I used industrial door hinges for the hinge off of the table saw and two 45 degree supports placed manually. I like your mid hinge folding design.
have to agree with you, our big saws perhaps 70+"s wide have only about a foot of table behind the blade, and yes I do as you did, some how made it to 60 with only taking a small piece off the side of the tip of a thumb.
Clever use of a rolling pin. That's a much cheaper alternative to buying those special rollers. Thanks for sharing this.
I also have a small space. My first go at outfeed table was made purely of plywood. This takes up too much space making it awkward to access the machines at the back end of the garage. A folding outfeed table would give me the additional space to use the machines on the back wall. I feel like setting up your shop comes in several evolutions. Your basic setup to get you going. A second round where you make improvements on your initial design. And sometimes a final go to hone in your efforts. Thanks for this vid. Very well done.
Thank you for your wonderful video.
Im brand new to woodworking.
You're so talented.
I have a new Harvey table saw looks exactly like yours, was trying to figure out how to do this and found your video. Thank you very much for making this and putting it on the RUclipss!
That's great to hear!
I didnt even realize mine was like that until I came out in the morning to start the project, then I had to go back to the drawing board to work out how to do it :)
Well done! I’ve been searching for extension table ideas. I have a Powermatic cabinet TS with a similar rail. This will be perfect.
Hey Chris, Really like way you explain things so clearly .... gud job mate
Really should have 2 legs, and a better brace support on the bottom of the saw for the legs to rest in a pocket. Sometimes your going to cut something big and heavy youll want the extra support.
Lets say your making cabnits a 3/4" plywood or mdf gets pretty heavy by yourself youll be asking the off table to support that weight.
Last thing you need is the lone leg to give in. That could be worse then not having the off table in the first place. Always better to overbuild it.
As I'm an ignorant American, can someone explain to me why people who use the metric system use mm instead of cm when measuring longer spans. I hear 1k,2k mm instead of however many centimeters it is. Just curious as we measure with inches, feet, and yards we don't usually say something is 1000 inches for example. We would say it's 83 feet and 33 inches. Thanks. BTW great video...
Hey there.
Ive noticed this is a common trait for builders and people in construction, when at school we tend to use cm and mm.
I don't have a real reason but I can guess its probably quicker and avoids confusion if all measurements are in a single unit type, meaning that builders wont write 850 mm, they would just write 800.
To my knowledge, imperial doesn't have an actual name for units smaller than an inch, so you would never run into the issue
Great video. I just got a Harvey table saw that I'm going to build a outfeed table like yours. What is the width of pine boards you used for the mounting block.
I worked at an Overhead Door dealer and we called your garage door a 'shin kicker'.That is a nice extension outfeed table. Thank you for sharing.
Great video, thanks. Was so good to see that I'm not the only one to make mistakes. Now I just need to learn to just carry on.
Why are you using hammers to tighten the bolts?
The little glide Gidget on the end of your fence probably could have been removed and your table extended right to the table. Just stick a piece of stick -on glide tape instead of the button.
It seems a hole at the end of the miter slot would be nice for self-cleaning any dust that gets in there.
I hadn't considered that until I saw yours without it.
I agree those are safety concerns but there are also 2 safety concerns and they are on your head......always wear safety glasses and ear protection...nice build otherwise.
I have this exact saw, and have not built a folding table because trying to figure out how to attach to the tablesaw top. This is perfect. Would it possible to get some measurements? The final dimensions of the top? The piece of wood that attaches to the saw table, just the measure before you cut it to fit the bar on the table? Thanks.
I e never understood the shape of a table saw to begin with. It’s like, they never put any thought into it.
Great video Mac. I’m going to adopt a few of your ideas.
Please tell me, what’s that nifty countersink bit you’re using called and where can I buy one?
I got it from my local hardware store (bunnings) however I wouldnt recommend it, the rubber ring often leaves black marks on the wood.
A similar product I have seen many other woodworkers use that is on my wishlist can be found at amazon - amzn.to/3ht0Fvh
Very nice. Do you find any problematic deflection on the outer corners of the outfeed table, given that there's only one rear leg?
I cut part of my left thumb off trying to catch a piece before it fell off the back of my saw. It was a long time before I used the saw again.😣
Use a sheet of plastic when gluing up Formica. Put the sheet between the gluing surfaces and remove it as you roll down the Formica.
There is always a “that guy”….. You are “that guy”….
The local Home Depot (not sure what's where you are) has something called "Glasliner 4 ft. x 8 ft. White .090 FRP Wall Board" which is awesome stuff, it's amazing how many uses you may be able to find -- I've actually made sandwich board signs using it with stencils and plastic-enamel paint.
It is stippled on one side, but the other side is quite smooth, and perfect for many _many_ purposes. It may be quite good to replace the Formica as a top for something like this. As I speak it's US$43. There is also a 1/16 panel of similar stuff for US$26.
BTW, the term for making/adhering the formica to the underlayment is called *"burnishing".* There are specific tools made for the job, but a kitchen roller can certainly do the job. Not sure I'd want to use it for food after that, but it's something worth having anyway.
Oh, and I see you're using Titebond III -- it's good for peeps to understand the difference between the two main forms -- TBII and TBIII -- they use different processes for curing, so you want to know which will work best for your environment. TBII is best for relatively dry environments. Whereas TBIII is best for relatively humid environments. E.g., if you live in Arizona, use TBII. If you live in Florida, Louisiana, or the Gulf zone of Texas, you want TBIII -- this is because TBII cures by *releasing* moisture, so high humidity can be an issue. TBIII, on the other hand, cures by *absorbing* moisture. So it's great in high-humidity areas. It's also notably more waterproof, but the downside of TBIII is that it also tends to foam as it dries, leading to some extra cleanup as the foam is exposed in some places.
Your choice, but I'd feel a lot more comfortable with two legs just dropping down at each corner and sitting on the ground, with a lock-in-place... I don't see any benefit to the clunky angle- trick you did there. It feels needlessly "cute"... And it leaves the corners unsupported, so the whole thing is subject to torsion damage over time. YMMV. ;-)
Thanks for the info, especially about the titebond glue 👍
In theory, you should have done Formica to both sides
That is one sweet looking outfeed table Mac mate.. Gotta give u props for how u built that bad boy.. That's a great tip for getting that formica from the Kitchen place.. I must try that myself bcos I cannot get it either from the big box store or B&Q/WOODIES,ETC.. They barely have any decent wood on hand at these places plus it costs 60+ euros for one 8'X4' sheet of Plywood now. That's only 18mm and it's noty laminated to the best standards either. The amount of voids in the Plywood is ludicrous my bro.. MDF is about 55 euros per 8x4 sheet..
How expensive is it where u are bro? Anybody in the comments let me know where ur from and what a sheet of Plywood cost there please.. Really interested in how the price varies around the world atm..
Its pretty expensive, I usually just buy the cheap stuff from the local big box store, a sheet of 18mm pine ply is around $90NZD.
If I want birch, its around $250 - $300 NZD :(
Excellent work. I'm about to build one for my new sawstop - thanks for sharing :)
THANK YOU...I Recently built an outfeed/assembly table...but my mistake was that my table top was higher than my saw table which wouldn't allow me to move product off the table saw to the outfeed table...my fix to that was to raise the table saw which is a whole other issue...Then I saw your outfeed table which is perfect...I now have a dedicated assembly table and will be building your version of an outfeed table...Again...THANK YOU!!!
I have a 1954 DeWalt 8 inch radial saw that needs a new table. The problem is getting the green monster through a door. Folding side tables looks to be just the ticket. TKY VM
Howdi Champ ..Love this set up Indeed ..hey ..What brand name is on that Apron ur wearing ,plus you have an array of odds and bits inside the pockets ..what do u store in them ?..from AussieMan
Hey there
It’s a Katz Moses apron, I can get one here
kmtools.com/products/the-katz-moses-20-oz-waxed-canvas-woodworking-tool-apron
I usually have pens, a square, whatever I think I’ll be needing in it 😀
New subscriber and I agree! Why you are at only 5000 subs is mind boggling!! Outstanding build, great solution to a very common issue for us small shop folks, and honest reveal of oversights any of us would replicate! But you were equally as generous with the solutions! And, you didn’t jury rig it…you went BACK and did so it worked!! That’s called work ethic and is becoming a very rare character trait!👍🏻
I’ll be following your lead!!
Very nice. Thank you for sharing this with us. Everyone stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Great ideas. But a question I have is why you didn’t use hinges across the bottom of the outfeed table and the table saw. Seems like you could have eliminated the folding gap that way.
I honestly can’t remember, it was probably to save a few dollars
Very good, Sir. I was impressed. I just finished building an out feed table like the one that Colin Kanat at WoodworkWeb built. If I had seen your video I may have built one like you have demonstrated so well. The concept on both is pretty much the same whereas you built the folding support and I purchased my brackets as Colin did. With the price of boards it might have been a wash dollar wise. I have to say that yours is much better looking as you took great pains to make it so. I am going to check out your video on "How to build a cross cut sled at any budget!" because I have built 2 or 3 through the years that I did not care for. Again, very well done, Sir. A 73 year old admirer from Bossier City, Louisiana. I only say that because I do not think you accent is from the bayou.
Doesn’t bracing a single leg against the saw base risk the whole thing tipping over if you’re cutting anything big ?
Just thinking about the weight of the out feed plus a big sheet of ply or something ?
I don’t actually have the room to put a whole sheet of ply through, I usually break a sheet down with a straight edge and circular saw before moving to the cabinet saw and I’ve never had any stability issues with what I have used
Very nice fold down out feed table. At home I have a cabinet where the top is the out feed table but where I go for part of winter has a shop with no outfeed surface. It scares me to see people cutting things that are too long. I’m going to use your idea a build one when I get there February 1st. Thanks and it is a very good video. Good content, the right amount of talking and a great attitude.
I agree fully with the why a feed table is needed. Very well done. That drill press boring, needs some safety adjustment. Really enjoyed,thanks
Your videos have an ASMR quality to them. They are very relaxing to watch! keep up the great work
Idea: If you don’t round over the pivot part of the leg on both sides, then maybe it can act as a stop block on its own.
I'd better break these bad habits too. I'm watching your video and I will make one of these. Thank you.
Very nice design and great execution! I like how you minimized the horizontal projection of the wood rail/hinge you bolted to rear fence rail. I’ve seen other designs that add what looks like 4-5” to the saw’s depth (which is not good if the saw shares space with a car).
Externally, your saw looks very similar to the Grizzly G0899 and Shop Fox W1888. The fence rail setup is the same, as are the hand cranks, the fence, etc. Owners of those saws could use your design as-is.
Well done also. I made up a similar one about six years ago with a few changes. I added a rail to the top on the table saw for the top to hook into and a rail for the bottom of the table saw to provide more support for the angled support. I added two cleats cleat to the underside of the top. One to hook into the table saw and the other for the leg to fit against. Lastly, I simply use a board(30cm wide) with mitred ends to sit against the top and the other to sit on top of the bottom table saw rail....the board adds great stability to the top. All parts simply hook into place when needed and lie flat anywhere when not needed.
Kia ora bro, your a right lil vegeiemite, that is so simple but so practical, I will copy that onto my to be done urgently list
was remaking the leg sections anything like taking the next exit and then turning around to get back to the exit you should have taken? I think that's what it would have been like for me, great build, got really lucky twice with those screw locations, was bound to go wrong somewhere else
I normally put brad nails where I'm about to route a channel 😢
And stop giving imperial to make it easier for the yanks. Not until all of them do metric as well 🤣
👏🏼great job. Love the design and build. Good inspiration on build idea for my set up.
Thanks Mac. Great video. I am finishing organizing my shop today and will build that outfeed table in a about 2 weeks! Take care!
Thank you. I will be doing this to my table saw and have been looking for a good plan. My search is over
Great video~! I've been looking for an out-feed extension for my table saw and this is the best one I've seen so far. Excellent job~!
Beautiful job. Good video and audio on top of the nice pace and good explanation, thanks!
Having chopped 3 fingers off on my saw, I can attest to how right you are.
Great job. What's the model of that little Makita router you use? Do you like it?
Thank you. I have a Harvey saw that has the issues you addressed other than my dust port is on the rear of the saw. Not a big issue.
Very creative table saw extension, well done and thanks for sharing this video with us 🙏🏼
Do you have plans for this table? If so how can I acquire them?
Sorry, I never made plans for this but I do plan to go back over some of my videos and retrospectively create plans
Very nice . i see you have the high tech open garage door dust control system that i also have😂
Hahaha, yup, works a treat 😂
Enjoyed this!
That was great. I have a contractor saw on a roll around stand and this gives me ideas! Thanks!
I can't believe this channel only just drifted across my timeline. So epic
Lots of news knowledge from your video. Tqvm
This is a great plan. I don’t think you needed the pretty Formica. It’s a “work” bench so I’m guessing cheap plywood would work just as well. I’m going use your idea to adapt to my table saw (which doesn’t have the metal thing). Thx.
The Formica helps the wood slip nicely, kind of like how we wax the saw bed so the wood doesn’t stick as it goes thru
Nice job mate, thanks for sharing 👌
Glad to see other people make mistakes. Good plan, I'll make one.
You needed a out feed table to build your out feed table😂 great job!!
Great job!
My question is kinda unrelated: where did you get the dust port for your Makita hand router??
I bought it as a kit, it came with several attachments at the time including a plunge router attachment
@@macsworkshop Thanks, I'm gonna try to find that.
How did you calculate the length of the support leg, trial & error?
Yea, pretty much, I cut it quite oversized and propped the table in place then cut the leg, sneaking up on the perfect fit
I made a similar support for my mobile miter saw table. I laminated two MDF panels with a water based glue. After laminating the Formica on one side, the panels warped. A more experienced maker told me I should have waited a week before laminating the Formica or laminated top and bottom to prevent differential drying. Wondering if you had any tips on timing or warping in your project? Great addition to the shop! I greatly enjoy your videos.
Hey there
I thankfully didn't have any issues with warping but I did notice on a separate project where I glued two pieces of MDF together that they didn't stick particularly well.
I think the one reason this worked without warping or the glue coming undone is because I ended up screwing it together from the underside