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Mac very cool. Well said Pete from New York . Maybe talk about your bench vise sometime .

Benchdog holes are always round, never square.

thanks for the usefull video! ill try doing one like this for my drill press,

This looks really clean, I like it a lot. If I may, I want to offer some tips for you. For the drill press table, you can make a long through mortise cut, maybe 120mm which would allow you to swing the fence for more precision drilling, you can also lay the fence on it's side, and drill two more holes for securing the fence to the table. This will allow you to make deeper plunges with your drill not getting hung up on the fence. Lastly, I have two tips for table saw safety for you. First, NEVER stop pushing your lumber completely past the fence before shutting the saw off. This can lead to burn marks on your lumber, as seen in this video, or even worse, kickback. Next, use your push stick as close to the right side of the blade, as you can get it, rather than along the the fence. This will help prevent kickback. You can see what I am talking about by using a scrap piece of lumber. Lower your blade completely, place the piece of lumber onto the table saw, against the fence as you normally would. With your saw off, and the blade lowered, push the piece of lumber through an imaginary cut, using your push stick exactly like you did in this video. You might be surprised to see that the leading edge of your lumber actually begins to angle towards the blade. This can cause binding and/or kickback, even with a riving knife installed. RUclipsrs Steve Ramsey and Stumpy Nubs both, have done videos about this as well.

16:03 Hey! im sure you've heard of kickback... just want to remind you to be safe if you are cutting like that! if you are not careful you won't be able to create projects as amazing as this one! Be safe!

Great video.....+ An unexpected SLC bees t-shirt = subscriber won!

6:20 You can also use film-face ply…

Hello. This was an excellent and very elucidated presentation. I learned a lot. You should make one for router stand and installing a lifter. I followed very well but at the end when you installed the movable fence I got lost. How do you move the fence and lock it ? Please explain. Thanks

Just a tip. Your auger bit being too aggressive, a simple trick. The lead screw at the tip - if you file most of the thread off it works beast and drills straight. P

In theory, you should have done Formica to both sides

Is the dust box creating any strain on the Tablesaw wing? I wondered if the weight created any leveling issues. I notice you didn’t support it from the floor.

How about a link to the push to open drawer slides?

That is defently the strongest outfeed table I have ever seen, (nice Design), I mite add, Formica is a Brand Name, that material is called HIGH PRESSURE LAMINET.

what did norm always say…? lucky that bit didn’t go right through those cool invisible safety glasses.

Hey Kris, could you post the dimensions you went with for the bench top. Cheers

Hey Chris, Really like way you explain things so clearly .... gud job mate

Helpful video. Thank you.

😅😅😅 zuerst mal den richtigen Bohrer nehmen. Nicht das Spielzeug. Famag hss holzbohrer!!!👍🇩🇪

Spade bits are nowhere near as neat as a forstener bit. Worth noting that drill presses, which forsteners are designed for, generally run a lower speed. Also why change a bit when you could just sharpen it? Still, good video, liked.

Nice work bench. How much does it weigh and how would you move it if you needed to?

how did you make sure the ne table extension is flush with th table saw even though you said the line is different on each side? and can you extend an outfeed table?

If things go awry when drilling you can use 22mm copper water pipe in an oversize hole to give you a usable 20.1mm hole that matches many commercial dogs and clamps, we started doing that for replacement Work Mate 'Professional' jaws that had steel inserts to eliminate wear issues from heavy use.

We always pick up a tip or two. I like the hole under the insert for the chips to fall. Certainly one of those "why didn't I think of that" Thanks and keep the vids coming! !! !!!

Brilliant - thank you. Lovely bench youve built there 👍

2:15 I bought a forstener set at a local retailer and it was very cheap. like €10 for 5x bits. It was not worth the money. they didn't just go blunt very fast, they were blunt to start with. I just bought a Bosch 20mm forstener bit for double the price of the whole set and its much better quality and works really well. dogs fit very snugly and dont' have wiggle room like with the cheap forstener bits. So probably whatever bit you use, its better to make sure they're good quality. buy cheap, buy twice.

Nice! I wonder if gluing the leather onto the base before installing it would make it slightly easier. Just have to adjust the dado to fit.

For polar alignment on the magnets, place them in a column, insert in hole, slide the magnet column to the side. And continue on all the holes. They will all be polar aligned then

Drop saw eh? We have these unique creatures in the UK you should see, called Mitre Bears :) Oh, and nice tower ofc.

That looks great nice idea with the magnets to

Nice. Seeing as you glued the box together, I would have done the same with the tower and made it fit in the box. 🤔

Ok where did you get your aluminum extrusions. This was really well done. I watch this right behind your off feed table video .

I know this video was created 2 years ago but a couple items for your consideration: 1) use a straight router bit for sizing the Formica sheet. It is a cleaner cut than a saw. 2) Let the first coat of glue dry on the Formica and then coat is again. This gives better adhesion to the wood. Nice job overall.

Hey Kris Just found your channel and I'm impressed. About to rebuild my drill press table, drawers and pretty much want to make it rise and fall electronically. Love your drill press video, Worth a subscription and like. Regards ONE HANDED MAKER - Australia

Howdi Champ ..Love this set up Indeed ..hey ..What brand name is on that Apron ur wearing ,plus you have an array of odds and bits inside the pockets ..what do u store in them ?..from AussieMan

Excellent work and a really nice design.

Thanks so much.

Very nice

Mind sharing where you got the formica sheet from? I haven't had luck finding any here in NZ.

Simplifying the Hooked On Wood drill press table, looks sturdy

The more pressing issue is the router machine itself being used for this home build. Tabletop routers require a minimum collet size of 1/2 inch (12mm), along with a matching larger shaft/stem router bit size. This is an absolute must, and a common mistake made in rookie home built tabletop routers builds. The issue is amplified when using tabletop routers to free float (no fence). Trimming items to size or shape while following a template using too smaller router bit shafts around 1/4 inch, that simply aren't strong enough to take the pressure solely on there own. Therefore just a matter of time before the bit breaks, just as yours did here - likely you got off lightly injury free. If you don't have a full sized 1/2" collet router... then to cut, trim or make the likes of round holes in thicker panels while using 1/4 inch (6-8mm) shaft router bits, should all be done using jigs (without trim bearing). And, cut in multiple passes and increasing the depth after each cut, until cut through, taking your time, not rushing apply too much pressure and load upon the machine or smaller bits. 1/4" tabletop routers are fine to use with a fence (not frea-foaming), again taking multiple smaller passes until to getting to your desired profile. If you choose to use an incorrect router without the larger 12mm collet size under you tabletop... you Will eventually get caught out and likely be injured - proven by states, matched with my experience within the trade. Also, Need Not point out the obvious, regarding feed direction cause you've already worked that out for yourself, lesson leant. Stay safe, peace out ✌️

Like your background music, sounds like Justin Johnson.

Hey Kris, did you you buy the router and router plate from Carbatec or did you go to amazon Aussie? interested if you went outside of Carbatec and had any links (otherwise ill check the Amazon links) thanks from a Wellingtonian

Very nice. Do you find any problematic deflection on the outer corners of the outfeed table, given that there's only one rear leg?

@ 09:27 Nailed it! Guess, Now it’s time to screw up!

You did not test your holes for square. The main purpose of an MFT is for accurate assembly. I went some way to replicating the Parf system. It would not have take much more to be more accurate. Please come back and show us how square those holes are to each other over distance.

A DIY version of the pricey UJK Parf guide. Love it. Thanks for sharing.

Did the wife demand a Herring after?

Brad point bit.

After you cut purple heart, put it out in the sun, it’ll come back to purple really fast